question to those with Alpine SC

[ScottinMA]

Mine is making a quite a lot of noise these days. Probably a bearing. I have an email in to Tone but wondered if anyone else has delt with this issue.

[Ruflyf]

just at idle or always? The older versions do make a rough sounding noise at idle.

[ScottinMA]

Happens at idle but also when accelerating or going up hills. I thought it was an exhaust leak but my mechanic believes it is a bearing in the SC. Does anyone know the warrantee that Alpine gives with these SCs? I'm sure it's been too long for me but tearing down the nose sounds like an expensive process.

[Hotsauce]

I had the early noisy bearing. Never any problems other than it sounded like you owned a POS.

I purchased the newer quiet nose from Alpine and swapped it in about an hour. I remember it being about $400, but not sure. They didn't keep it in stock, and I waited about 8 weeks to get it.

John C.

[Jay Dunford]

Have you checked the ERG nut. The aluminum block that comes with the kit is notorious for backing the nut off and letting exhaust gas flow by making noise. I ended up putting locktite on it and that lasted 2 years without a problem.

[Ruflyf]

I was going to change to the new nose cone a lil while back and it seemed like a $200+ item, cant remember for sure. The nut could very well be the noise you hear, sounds alot like a exhaust leak under acceleration.

Also have you changed the s/c oil, how did it look?

[ScottinMA]

I had my mechanic who installed the SC use the car for the morning. He verified that the noise is in the SC. Reported that it sounds like a bag of marbles and the noise in random but most noticable under load. He set the parking brake and manipulated the throttle in order to get a good listen. I've been trying to talk with someone at Alpine. Can't wait to get it fixed. BTW, I thought it was an exhaust noise too.

[ScottinMA]

Have you checked the ERG nut. The aluminum block that comes with the kit is notorious for backing the nut off and letting exhaust gas flow by making noise. I ended up putting locktite on it and that lasted 2 years without a problem.

Jay,

Absolutely, that was the first thing I thought when I heard the noise but that nut was on good and tight.

[WormGod]

I was going to change to the new nose cone a lil while back and it seemed like a $200+ item, cant remember for sure. The nut could very well be the noise you hear, sounds alot like a exhaust leak under acceleration.

Also have you changed the s/c oil, how did it look?

Didn't want to start a new thread, so here are a few ???'s concerning the S/C:

- Speaking of oil, what oil have you all found to be to the liking of Alpine? Also, the fill/drain pot, I suspect, is on the front of the bell near the nose, correct? Documentation/schematics are nil on this thing and the install directions are flaky, at best.

- Has anyone found a sparkplug that works best all around with the S/C? Definately upgrading the plugs.

- Has anyone gone with braided hoses? Thinking of going this route eventually, but will use the supplied hosing until I know the S/C is up and running and broken in.

In all, I hope to get started in a few weeks. Weather is getting much better, my tools are dying to get the dust blown off of them, and after 4 years of this S/C sitting idle in a box in the basement, it's simply time to do it. I have installed 1000 T/Cs, so I am looking very forward to installing this S/C, considering this will be the first blower I will have ever installed on a street legal car, hahaha. This one is quite tiny compared to the ones I have done before, many years ago (one person can actually list this one alone!). :)

Any advice is appreciated.

[ScottinMA]

My advise....put it on Gary.

[WormGod]

My advise....put it on Gary.

Oh, I am. Currently in the garage tearing it down. Playing hell with the fuel injector wiring. Little bastages arent the easiest things to unplug.

Looking more into it.... the documentation states NIL about the throttle body and accelerator cable. Looks like when it comes to that, I am gonna need the assistance of my complete NASCAR loving gearhead of a brother-in-law.

Taking my time on it so I have nothing but time. Sure beats being lazy and getting a shop to do the install for $800. Feels good to be under a hood again. :)

[Ldub]

You are correct, the drain/ fill plug is on the front. From what I've read, a syringe with a small vinyl hose attatched will get most of the oil out.
I think GM supercharger oil is recommended.

[WormGod]

I ran into a jam. I have contacted Tone but I am not sure he can help me with this issue since the kit has been in my possession for 3 years, untouched until now. Basically, I never recieved an extended cruise cable and bracket. So, I am probably gonna have to fab my own bracket and spline my own cable. In any case, I have a favor to ask.... can someone with the S/C please snap a shot of the rear of their S/C, preferably giving me reference to the throttle body and it's relation to where the cruise and accel brackets mount on the bell housing? I am interested in seeing where the brackets mount and how your cruise and accel cables are tucked away behind the S/C. Thanks in advance.

BTW, I am still playing hell with the injector harnesses. I did them once before.... now I can't remember how in the hell I got them off. :mad:

[Tone]

Alpine can supply you with the correct bracket and cable - it is pretty complex with rollers to properly route the cables.

Oil should be changed by removing the hex bolts at the front of the charger (not the nose cone ones) and catch the fluid with a rag. Then reseal and refill .

Pull out the blue clip on the injector clip and then use a small screwdriver to depress the plastic locking tab on the injector plug - pull gently.

[WormGod]

Alpine can supply you with the correct bracket and cable - it is pretty complex with rollers to properly route the cables.

Oil should be changed by removing the hex bolts at the front of the charger (not the nose cone ones) and catch the fluid with a rag. Then reseal and refill .

Pull out the blue clip on the injector clip and then use a small screwdriver to depress the plastic locking tab on the injector plug - pull gently.

Thanks Tone. When you say "route" the cables with rollers, are you refering to in the engine bay or the process of actually creating the new extended cruise cable? Please excuse my confusion. :confused: Is the cable something I should deal directly with Alpine or is it something I can aquire through your services?

As for the injector clips, ya, that all sounds familiar and I have been doing just that which you said. I will try again when it isnt midnight and with a doberman pulling on my ankle.

Thanks for the response.

[spitfire5454]

my kit didnt have it either and im still waiting for it (4 months and counting). i can tell you what i am doing in the mean time. im assuming you have the regular throttle bracket that goes on the back of the s/c. i went to auto zone looking for a flat metal bracket of some sorts. i ended up with a "super chrome alternator mounting bracket" or whatever. it was like $4. it was thick enough. so i took it home and beat it flat. it already had holes in it so that was a plus. the cables have a part with no threads that is thinner than the rest. you need to chisel out just enough to where the this part of the cable can slide into the bracket. that way, once you slide it back it cant fall off b/c the threads will be thicker than what you chiseled out. the washers are for spacing as the cc cable must be closer the the throttle body. i would take a picture for you but im not in the country. so i give my awsome ms paint rendition. alpine told me the guy that makes them isnt there anymore. but they would send one as soon as they made one. this seems to work fine. and you can make one with a spare peice of metal, a drill and a hacksaw ;) just get the Throttle body on first then kind of eye ball it to line up where the cc cable should mount do have a straight shot at it.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/bracket.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/bracket.JPG)

[WormGod]

Oh man, dont say that. When it !@#$ing rains it pours when it comes to my luck. I sent an email to Alpine concerning the bracket and the cable since I was at work but havent heard back yet, so I guess I am gonna have to step out of work and make a call tomorrow instead. I hate to have to fab something on my own.

I have the original accel bracket so I am just gonna have to go with that for now. I cant afford to have the VX camped out in the garage all damned spring waiting for a part that may never come. I guess the joke is on me for waiting 3 years to install it.

AAARRRGGHHH!

[Green Dragon]

As The owner of the first VX ever supercharged( Factory installed), I can tell you of the many issues resulting in noise & eventual failure of nose cones rear bearings etc.

On 5/5/05 I decided I had done all I could do in trying to make a silk purse out of a sows ear & sent the SC out for overhaul to

www.superchargerTech.com

Supercharger Technologies
26988 SE Hwy 19
unit 47 Old Town Fl. 32680

352 542 0147

SC came with a 2 year warranty at a total cost of $490 ( exchange)

Result was awesome everthing replaced, nose cone, bearings etc every bearing including rear housing bearings replaced. SC is after two years still as smooth as butter with no noise or any other issues.

Bob F

[Triathlete]

Bob, glad to see you still bopping around here!

[WormGod]

Hey hey, look, it's Dragon Bob! Good to see ya lurking around. Hope all is well.

Found I had to order a new throttle body gasket last night. The existing one was so unusable, it was hardly even visible. Something got the better of it. So, a new one on order from isuzuparts.com (they love me now.... I think I keep them in business). In the meantime, while I wait for it, I guess I will just clean and polish up everything from the throttle body to the EGR. The EGR isnt in the best of shape either, but, if it aint broke, dont fix it. I think my VX is clearly allergic to winter salts here.

Slow progress is still progress. About 2 hours a night in the garage. I dont recall my previous S/C installs having so much damned hosing, heh. Of course, those were not fuel injected vehicles though.

Question about polishing: The fuel rails and the EGR mount.... those who polished these, any advice?

[Ldub]

Question about polishing: The fuel rails and the EGR mount.... those who polished these, any advice?

I used some Flitz metal polish, a cotton rag, & lots of elbow grease...a buffing wheel on a bench grinder would have eliminated the elbow grease thing.
Also, plug all orfices in the fuel rails with scraps of rag to prevent any metal polish residue from entering the rail.

Another tip to make your install easier...cut some "U" shaped shims out of sheet aluminium (available @ most hardware/hobby stores) about an inch square, with a 1/4" slot in the middle to aid in alignment of the fuel rails.
On mine, the rails were slightly mis-aligned when tightened onto the existing (on the Alpine manifold) mounts causing some binding issues with the injectors. When the rails are tightened to the mounting lugs, you should still be able to rotate the injectors back & forth with moderate hand pressure.

Use emery cloth to slightly enlarge the beveled edge where the injectors go into the fuel rail & ample silicone grease on the upper & lower injector O-rings to keep from tearing O rings, as clearances are VERY tight.

Good Luck !

[WormGod]

I actually had no issues installing the injectors into the rails. Very mild lubing of the plenum ports and very minor lubing of the fuel rail ports. Then some slow but constant twisting of the injectors as you apply pressure to put them in the plenum. Getting them in the fuel rails was alittle trickier but not so bad really. I laid the rail over the injectors and lined up the ports to them. Applying a little pressure to the rail while slowly twisting the injectors a little at a time and they worked their way into the rail. The rail mounted up right to the plenum with a perfect fit.

I assumed I was gonna have trouble getting them in since i played hell getting them out of the OEM fuel rail, but I was pleasantly surprised that it was the opposite. In all, the o-rings were still in great shape (only a couple years old) so I didnt have to use any of my new ones. Good to have regardless.

My only issue this weekend was getting the nut off of the crank pulley. I hunted all over for a crank holder. No shops nor any of my tech friends had access to one (found one that fit various Fords, but no luck on my pulley). So, I ended up using the serpentine belt. I did the old wrap and fold of the belt around the pully and cranked the nut in the opposite direction. Worked like a charm (with some shop gloves that is.... hard on the hands). It's a risky tactic if you want to re-use your belt, so I suggest only doing this if you are replacing it. In my case, I was replacing all belts and gaskets so I had nothing to lose.

Looking over some stuff at quitting time last night, I was checking out the wiring. Does anyone recall what harnesses, if any, they had to splice and lengthen? Looks like there is gonna have to be some extension for the wiring to reach the new throttle body location.

[Ldub]

MAF & IAT

[ScottinMA]

As The owner of the first VX ever supercharged( Factory installed), I can tell you of the many issues resulting in noise & eventual failure of nose cones rear bearings etc.

On 5/5/05 I decided I had done all I could do in trying to make a silk purse out of a sows ear & sent the SC out for overhaul to

www.superchargerTech.com

Supercharger Technologies
26988 SE Hwy 19
unit 47 Old Town Fl. 32680

352 542 0147

SC came with a 2 year warranty at a total cost of $490 ( exchange)

Result was awesome everthing replaced, nose cone, bearings etc every bearing including rear housing bearings replaced. SC is after two years still as smooth as butter with no noise or any other issues.

Bob F

Bob...what was the length of the turn around for the overhaul?

[ScottinMA]

Oh man, dont say that. When it !@#$ing rains it pours when it comes to my luck. I sent an email to Alpine concerning the bracket and the cable since I was at work but havent heard back yet, so I guess I am gonna have to step out of work and make a call tomorrow instead. I hate to have to fab something on my own.

I have the original accel bracket so I am just gonna have to go with that for now. I cant afford to have the VX camped out in the garage all damned spring waiting for a part that may never come. I guess the joke is on me for waiting 3 years to install it.

AAARRRGGHHH!

Gary, from experience email rarely gets answered at Alpine. Call them directly. I've been talking to a fellow named John who is "trying" to be helpful.

[WormGod]

Me again, day #10. Progressing slowly but surely, a little at a time. Was actually having fun until last night when I finally found myself with hammer in hand. Getting the plenum to seat correctly with the EGR mount and the EGR exhuast piping proved to turn into a 1 hour nightmare. Something simply didnt mesh up properly so I had to get a little rough in some areas with force. It's all in place now, but I am hoping that I didnt harm the EGR mount in the process. There were mahy loud and lude words being heard from in my garage last night.

Anyways, just about everything is on place. Tested my fule lines and after one extreme spray from the rear fuel rail by the EGR (DAMJN! always, with the EGR.... what a cursed area!), I tapped all fuel leaks and am on business. The garage smells grand with 93 octane hovering about. Belts in place, spark and fuel wire harnesses connected, plenum tightened down. Ready to roll some more.

My question is this however.... I may be missing something, but the original manifold housed a bracket enclosing the fuel pressure regulator. There is no mention of this on the S/C. It has a wire harness connection and 2 hose ports, both of which connect to the rear of the original manifold. On the S/C, the fuel pressure regulator connects to the small brass hose port on the rear of the plenum, just behind the fuel pressure regulator housing, if I am correct. But this leaves out the original bracket, which has 2 hose ports and a wire harness. Where does this fit into the equation?

Also, wire harness extending.... never been great at wire work, but I get by. Any advice on what wire gauge is best? I want to get it right the first time, so I plan to solder and shrink tube before wrapping it up.

:)

[WormGod]

Reiterating a question from my last post concerning the fuel pressure regulator, but with pictures this time to try to get my point made more clear. Basically, there is a protection bracket (so the workshop manual calls it) surrounding the regulator that houses a wire harness connection and 2 small ports.

http://www.wormgod.8m.com/Images/Ebony/SC/fuel_pres_prot.jpg

(2 and 3 below point to the 2 ports on the protection bracket w/ wire harness port)

http://www.wormgod.8m.com/Images/Ebony/SC/fuel_reg_bracket.JPG

Besides getting the right length hosing to finish the install and figuring out where this bracket and these ports fit into the S/C equation, these are really the only things holding me back from finishing. Any out there that installed their own S/Cs got the answer I am looking for? :confused:

S/C installs were clearly more simplified on PRE fuel injected cars. :(

[Ldub]

IIRC, & it's been a while...I removed the bracket from the vac. controlled mechanism & put a piece of vac. hose between #2 & 3 in pic 7. Then just zip tie it out of the way.
I think those lines had something to do with the small cannister over by the cruise control/ ABS module which is abandoned also.(not the ABS, but the small cannister) I put a piece of vac hose between the two ports on the cannister to keep things clean in case I ever want to go back to the NA setup.(not likely ;) )

I have a diagram of the vac hose routing if you need it.

Gotta love the incredibly vague install instructions from Alpine. :rolleyes:

[WormGod]

IIRC, & it's been a while...I removed the bracket from the vac. controlled mechanism & put a piece of vac. hose between #2 & 3 in pic 7. Then just zip tie it out of the way.
I think those lines had something to do with the small cannister over by the cruise control/ ABS module which is abandoned also.(not the ABS, but the small cannister) I put a piece of vac hose between the two ports on the cannister to keep things clean in case I ever want to go back to the NA setup.(not likely ;) )

I have a diagram of the vac hose routing if you need it.

Gotta love the incredibly vague install instructions from Alpine. :rolleyes:

Oh dear god that diagram would be extremely appreciated!! I understand the majority of the hvac hosing, but the smaller lines have me a little confused. Especially things like that which you mentioned that were "left out" so to speak. That diagram would rock Ldub. I hope to document ALL of this information from my build into the S/C install thread that I started for any future S/C installers or repairers so they dont have to ask as many questions as I am. God knows, if you do a search on here about S/C issues, it turns up more threads than eadlight gaskets and power window issues, haha.

Thanks Ldud! :cool:

[Ldub]

I'm not sure if this will be of any use, it's a little more vague than I remembered (big surprise, It's from Alpine :rolleyes: ), but it helped me get it right.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/vac_routing.jpg

[WormGod]

Actually, that is GREAT. On the bright side, that is exactly how I figured the fuel reg was supposed to go, but it's a good reassurance. Odd that there is no S/C "plan" for an alternative for the sensor on the protection bracket, but, like you said, that's Alpine for ya. Thank you very much. Just need to aquire my vacuum hose now. Hopefully this weekend.

I hope you won't mind if I use that pic in the ref guide I am compiling? It will be a good help for anyone in the future. :)

[Ldub]

I hope you won't mind if I use that pic in the ref guide I am compiling? It will be a good help for anyone in the future. :)

Be glad to help, I got it from Tone & assume that he got it from Alpine.

[WormGod]

I just realised last night that my fuel hose from the passenger side fuel rail banjo was resting against the EGR piping (below the EGR and mounting block). Granted, I havent had the VX out since the install except to drive around the block and run in the driveway for some tweaking, so no damage done.

My question.... this pipe generates some healthy heat, so is it safe to say I should re-route the hose further away from the EGR piping? I am not so sure how hot the EGR pipe gets and if it is going to be damaging to the hose. I don;t know why I didnt think of this when installing.

Afterall, fuel and heat.... really good friends when trying to create chaos.

[WormGod]

I found a fairly safe place to re-route the hose. Behind the EGR is a bracket for some other lines. It took removal of the fuel rail but I was able to undo the banjo and push the fuel line back behind the S/C again and run it back through BEHIND that line bracket and reconnect again. It's pretty much flush with the firewall now and out of EGR harm. Hopefully, this is the last minor issue I come across. She is going out for a good run tomorrow. It's the moment of truth, heh.

[johnnyapollo]

I'm glad your going through all this, and documenting everything. I'm in the same boat as you - bought the Alpine SC from Tone in that very first group buy, and it's been sitting in the basement, still crated, since. I'm lining up a friend to help with the install, but the problems you've been having will probably crop up in my same install. I've yet to get the longer cruise cable and bracket and CARB sticker - I'm also going ahead with a 5 LB pulley and polished nose. Did you ever call John directly? Can you post his number?

-- John

[WormGod]

No, I had some email swaps with Ldub and Tone and just randonm posts on the forums for issues. Tone and Ldub were very valuable assets to the install.

All work completed, I took her out today for her maided voyage. Felt good with that mild trademark S/C whine getting up to speeds. I ran into an issue about 10 miles down the road though. My temp gauge went through the roof. Totally overheated and I had to pull over into a school parking lot. I didnt see any fluid leaks and no smells but the temp gauge told me otherwise. Popping the hood, you could have cooked an egg in there. I let it cool and got it back home by driving with the cabin heat on full blast. Some issues on the way home, but not as bad. It seemed to rise fast when I gave the accelerator a little more than a feather touch or if I was sitting at a dead stop. Driving at speed, it would descend to normal.

Fluid levels all looked good later when I checked. I am suspecting a failed thermostat or waterpump at this point. Both of which I did not touch during the S/C install, which is odd, but they both also did sit for about 3 weeks fluidless, so deposits could have settled or there is some sticking. I put an email into Tone to see if he may have some idea. I am fully prepared to replace either or both the thermostat and waterpump, even if I am tired of getting my hands dirty now, heh.

[johnnyapollo]

I bought an extra thermostat - there was a thread about an install with some advice to go ahead and replace it while the plenum was off...

-- John

[Ldub]

No, I had some email swaps with Ldub and Tone and just randonm posts on the forums for issues. Tone and Ldub were very valuable assets to the install.

All work completed, I took her out today for her maided voyage. Felt good with that mild trademark S/C whine getting up to speeds. I ran into an issue about 10 miles down the road though. My temp gauge went through the roof. Totally overheated and I had to pull over into a school parking lot. I didnt see any fluid leaks and no smells but the temp gauge told me otherwise. Popping the hood, you could have cooked an egg in there. I let it cool and got it back home by driving with the cabin heat on full blast. Some issues on the way home, but not as bad. It seemed to rise fast when I gave the accelerator a little more than a feather touch or if I was sitting at a dead stop. Driving at speed, it would descend to normal.

Fluid levels all looked good later when I checked. I am suspecting a failed thermostat or waterpump at this point. Both of which I did not touch during the S/C install, which is odd, but they both also did sit for about 3 weeks fluidless, so deposits could have settled or there is some sticking. I put an email into Tone to see if he may have some idea. I am fully prepared to replace either or both the thermostat and waterpump, even if I am tired of getting my hands dirty now, heh.

Arrrrrgh!...that's no good. Sorry to see she's giving you problems so soon. :(

With no visible leaks & fluid levels topped off, all indications point toward something restricting flow.
I know it's a long shot, but you didn't plug a heater hose or other hose with a rag or something (to keep things clean)?
Another possibility might be a kink in one of the coolant hoses.
Also, grab a flashlight & look under the intake manifold with the engine running, in the general vicinity of the t-stat. I guess without any antifreeze smell, it's prolly not a leak though. :rolleyes:

In any event, good luck finding the prob.

[WormGod]

Heres an odd one for ya....

I drained her down again today. Topped her back off with the same fluid through a straining funnel and then squeezed the lines by hand to get the fluids through them. Another cup of "water" to fill up the radiator and then gave it a start. I let it sit for about 20 minutes running at idle in the driveway. I kept my eye on the engine and the gauge the whole time. Never did the temp gauge exceed over 1/2 way. The coolant resevoir bottle never filled back up again either. No smells, no leaks, nothing. The overheating just did not happen. I even tried turning on the A/C to see if that gave it a boost but nope. I didnt take it out for a drive to see whathappened since I was pressed for time though. Hopefully I can get around to that soon.

So.... I am even more baffled than I was before. The only change was putting in an extra "cup of water". *shakes head*

[etlsport]

maybe you had an air bubble in your radiator lines? my buddy had his radiator flushed in his A4, about halfway home his temp gauge went way up, all the way to the H, he called the shop they said that happens from time to time and they towed it back to their shop, re-flushed it and all was good and has been for about 40k

[WormGod]

Ya, looks like that (air bubble) may have been the case. I gave a few taps on the waterpump as well just to jolt the thermostat while filling it. I had a sticking thermostat on my old Rodeo before and that seemed to do the trick. Regardless, I may still go ahead and replace the thermostat and possibly the waterpump within the next few thousand miles. The radiator is brand new so I may as well get the entire cooling line up to par.

Here's to the next few thousand miles going well so I can go ahead and look into replacing all the lines with braided hoses and throwing in a CAI. Speaking of the CAI, any proven bolt in CAIs that work well with the S/C? I have seen some gallery shots of the C/F one that looks pretty swank.

[Ldub]

It was one like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/TOP-FUEL-CARBON-FIBER-INTAKE-02-05-HONDA-CIVIC-SI-EP3_W0QQitemZ160028453051QQihZ006QQcategoryZ38634Q QrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem

that the original person who did this started with. (xdfarrx or jolly roger VX?...can't remembr any more) & this one doesn't look exactly the same.
You have to mod it by cutting it to length(slight angle on TB end), drilling it for pass. side valve cover breather (unless you use a breather vent), & another hole for IAT sensor.

[WormGod]

Hmm, doesnt sound like too much work for a hacksaw and a drill. Maybe I will look into something like this some more this comming summer. Thanks Dub.

[ScottinMA]

To resurrect this thread and ask another question….Has anyone retrofitted back to OEM from the SC? Two years ago I posted about my noisy SC and decided to bare with the noise. Well this past run from MA to VT changed that. Too damn noisy for me. So I seem to have the choice of taking the SC off and sending to FL for a rebuild (if the guy Dragon Bob mentioned earlier is still in business) and not have a vehicle during the down time or have engine returned to OEM and live with out it. So I’m opening this up to the list. What would you do? Also, if anyone is aware of a company that rebuilds Alpine SC please let me know. Thanks

[johnnyapollo]

I'm currently not running the SC - took if off this previous spring due to the horrible drive bearing noise. In my case I previously purchased a complete intake manifold from an Isuzu Trooper - that way I could leave the fuel rails on most of the parts intact on the SC Alpine manifold. It's sitting in a box ready for shipping, unfortunately I got laid off 5 months ago so the SC is still sitting in a box. I put all my old gear back on my original manifold, using the fuel rails from the extra Trooper one - the intake port is actually a different size so it's not a direct swap. I left the tensioning plate on the front of the motor behind the pulley as I intend to eventually get the SC back on there.

I found someone locally who could do the job but never got a response when I called and left several messages. I'm not sure who I'll use at this point.

-- John

[Ldub]

I'm currently not running the SC - took if off this previous spring due to the horrible drive bearing noise. In my case I previously purchased a complete intake manifold from an Isuzu Trooper - that way I could leave the fuel rails on most of the parts intact on the SC Alpine manifold. It's sitting in a box ready for shipping, unfortunately I got laid off 5 months ago so the SC is still sitting in a box. I put all my old gear back on my original manifold, using the fuel rails from the extra Trooper one - the intake port is actually a different size so it's not a direct swap. I left the tensioning plate on the front of the motor behind the pulley as I intend to eventually get the SC back on there.

I found someone locally who could do the job but never got a response when I called and left several messages. I'm not sure who I'll use at this point.

-- John

Since I noticed the link in Green Dragons post is dead, I did a little snooping.

I hope any of this will eventually lead to something useful to you...

http://www.thehighspeedlab.com/index.html

Check out all the offered services for Eaton blowers here...

http://www.thehighspeedlab.com/catalog.htm

Here's a "ballpark" HP calculator that's kinda fun to play with...:yesgray:

http://www.superchargersonline.com/hp_calculator.asp

Start at 215 crank HP, Plug in 20 lb boost, 108 octane & a 3 core intercooler, then let your mind wander...:smilewink

[Ldub]

HA! As it turns out, You already know all this stuff...:mbrasd:

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=13760&highlight=eaton

Oh well, the HP calc is still fun to play with...:smilewink

[ScottinMA]

Since I noticed the link in Green Dragons post is dead, I did a little snooping.

Yes the link is dead but the telephone number he listed is still answered by the company voice mail (I called it over weekend while closed). So today I'll be searching the resources to determine which direction to take. I have the box of OEM parts in my car and wonder whether my new mechanic has the ability to put it back together given that he did not do the SC install. He could certainly take off the SC and I could send it for repairs if not too price prohibitive. We'll see.

[ScottinMA]

Reiterating a question from my last post concerning the fuel pressure regulator, but with pictures this time to try to get my point made more clear. Basically, there is a protection bracket (so the workshop manual calls it) surrounding the regulator that houses a wire harness connection and 2 small ports.

http://www.wormgod.8m.com/Images/Ebony/SC/fuel_pres_prot.jpg

(2 and 3 below point to the 2 ports on the protection bracket w/ wire harness port)

http://www.wormgod.8m.com/Images/Ebony/SC/fuel_reg_bracket.JPG

Besides getting the right length hosing to finish the install and figuring out where this bracket and these ports fit into the S/C equation, these are really the only things holding me back from finishing. Any out there that installed their own S/Cs got the answer I am looking for? :confused:

S/C installs were clearly more simplified on PRE fuel injected cars. :(

Dub,

Do you know whether you still have the reference hoses to these numbers? Would be so helpful if you did (example: fuel regulator vacuum to number 1 etc). Thanks

[Ldub]

Dub,

Do you know whether you still have the reference hoses to these numbers? Would be so helpful if you did (example: fuel regulator vacuum to number 1 etc). Thanks

It'll take a bit of digging, but I'll see what I can come up with...:yesgray:

[Ldub]

Dub,

Do you know whether you still have the reference hoses to these numbers? Would be so helpful if you did (example: fuel regulator vacuum to number 1 etc). Thanks

Well, I looked at the various shop manuals until I was almost cross eyed, THEN it dawned on me that there is a vacuum hose routing diagram...under the hood.:rolleyesg

Smart @$$ directions...:smilewink

Open hood -> look up ^...:uhohgray:...:_wrench:

With a bit of head scratching, that should pretty much tell you where everything goes...:_thinking

[WormGod]

Well, I looked at the various shop manuals until I was almost cross eyed, THEN it dawned on me that there is a vacuum hose routing diagram...under the hood.:rolleyesg

Smart @$$ directions...:smilewink

Open hood -> look up ^...:uhohgray:...:_wrench:

With a bit of head scratching, that should pretty much tell you where everything goes...:_thinking

That's if you aren't on your 3rd factory hood... like me. ;) Nil a sticker on the hood. *sigh*

I don't envy this task. I was NEVER any good any remembering/memorizing vacuum plumbing. Though, if you know what all the connections are, reverse engineering them is actually not too bad on the VX. Looks like a lot of lines, but it's really not too bad. I have actually "considered" just taking out the S/C and selling to go back to stock it but I think that would lead me to selling the VX. To be honest with ya, the thought continues to haunt me and I do consider it....

[Ldub]

That's if you aren't on your 3rd factory hood... like me. ;) Nil a sticker on the hood. *sigh*

I don't envy this task. I was NEVER any good any remembering/memorizing vacuum plumbing. Though, if you know what all the connections are, reverse engineering them is actually not too bad on the VX. Looks like a lot of lines, but it's really not too bad. I have actually "considered" just taking out the S/C and selling to go back to stock it but I think that would lead me to selling the VX. To be honest with ya, the thought continues to haunt me and I do consider it....

Looks like I'd better spiff er up a little & take a few pics for the archives.

[ScottinMA]

Dub,

Thanks for all your efforts! I learned that my SC may breath yet again. All the damn noise I've been hearing is due to a loose 5 lb pulley and a bad bearing in the tensioner pulley. There is always a chance that the shaft may be bent as well but he (mechanic) didn't think so but won't know for sure until he gets the parts. Which introduces the bad news. Alpine is gone but there are places out there that service Eaton SC. So the hunt begins, and if I can find the parts I may be back in business. If I can't find the parts or the shaft is found to be bent, then I'm back to installing the OEM system. Thanks to everyone for assisting me.

[Ldub]

Dub,

Thanks for all your efforts! I learned that my SC may breath yet again. All the damn noise I've been hearing is due to a loose 5 lb pulley and a bad bearing in the tensioner pulley. There is always a chance that the shaft may be bent as well but he (mechanic) didn't think so but won't know for sure until he gets the parts. Which introduces the bad news. Alpine is gone but there are places out there that service Eaton SC. So the hunt begins, and if I can find the parts I may be back in business. If I can't find the parts or the shaft is found to be bent, then I'm back to installing the OEM system. Thanks to everyone for assisting me.

FWIW...the NSK part # for the S/C tensioner pulley bearing is:

6301C3 OR 630IC3...depending on wether my illegible writing meant 1 or I...:_thinking

OK...just found out for sure, it is a 1...http://vehicross.info/forums/showpost.php?p=42877&postcount=2

[ScottinMA]

http://vehicross.info/forums/showpost.php?p=42877&postcount=2[/url]

Dub you are the man! I've been calling everywhere trying to get these parts. Is the Alpine SC (I have one of earliest versions) a Eaton M62? Now if I could just find a SC pulley...

[ScottinMA]

I just discovered this link in my search to discover how I might be able to get in touch with this company. Sent email (couldn't find a phone number) and await response.

http://www.alpine-developments.com/

[johnnyapollo]

I've tried several different numbers in the past and was never able go get in touch with anyone or get any response via email. Your best bet is to find a machinist who can look up the raw part numbers.

-- John

[ScottinMA]

I've tried several different numbers in the past and was never able go get in touch with anyone or get any response via email. Your best bet is to find a machinist who can look up the raw part numbers.

-- John

I'll take that advice. Since running without the SC turning over the past couple days I've been disappointed by the noticeable decrease in performance. I've been so accustomed to the SC that I'm now feeling more desperate than ever to find the parts to keep it in tact rather than retrofitting back to the OEM set-up.

[PK]

I'll take that advice. Since running without the SC turning over the past couple days I've been disappointed by the noticeable decrease in performance. I've been so accustomed to the SC that I'm now feeling more desperate than ever to find the parts to keep it in tact rather than retrofitting back to the OEM set-up.

Scott, if you are currently running with the SC installed, but not turning over, there would be quite a large drop in performance.
All the intake air has to find its way through the stationary SC.

Going back to OEM setup will still be a drop in performance, but nowhere near as much as the stationary SC.

PK

[ScottinMA]

Scott, if you are currently running with the SC installed, but not turning over, there would be quite a large drop in performance.
All the intake air has to find its way through the stationary SC.

Going back to OEM setup will still be a drop in performance, but nowhere near as much as the stationary SC.

PK

Well that explains it. Today I'll focus my search on finding an Eaton M62 blower pulley and see whether that does the trick. Hate to retire this blower.

[ScottinMA]

Oh my God! I have a response from Alpine!!


Hi we need to know what vehicle it for. Regards John

-----Original Message-----
From: Scott Smith [mailto:ScottinMA@aol.com]
Sent: 02 December 2009 02:46 AM
To: sales@alpine-developments.com
Cc: sales@performancesi.com
Subject: Parts for Alpine SC

Hello,

I need to replace my 5 lb SC pulley on an Alpine (Eaton M62) version. How
can obtain one?

[ScottinMA]

I've been chatting with John at Alpine in South Africa. Alpine is going to manufacture a 53 mm SC pulley capable of increasing the boost to 6 lbs. That along with a bearing for the tensioner pulley should get me back in business. Getting this done has been quite a project and I'm grateful to Alpine for responding to my requests and I will be even more grateful when these parts get here.

[Ldub]

Alpine is going to manufacture a 53 mm SC pulley capable of increasing the boost to 6 lbs.

Please keep me posted as to cost, availability, & who to send the money to...:drool:..:naughty:

[pbkid]

Please keep me posted as to cost, availability, & who to send the money to...:drool:..:naughty:

haha, wouldnt expect anything less..... :thumbup:

[johnnyapollo]

I'd like a 6 lb pulley as well, please...

-- John

[ScottinMA]

Please keep me posted as to cost, availability, & who to send the money to...:drool:..:naughty:

Absolutely! I will let everyone know as soon as this process is finished.

[ScottinMA]

Well, something changed. In a earlier correspondence with Alpine in South Africa I received the following message on December 7th:

"Hi We will send a 53mm pulley John"

On December 10th I received this:

"Hi we never had a 53mm pulley in stock we are making one. Please confirm all the parts you require regards John"

On December 17 this:

"Hi Scott, the 5psi pulley is the smallest we can go, to get more boost we would have to manufacture a larger crank pulley that would quite expensive. We will have update to a larger supercharger MP 90 soon keep in touch Regards John"

I assume that is our Aussie pals endeavor....

And the other source I was investigating:

"This pulley was designed by NGM to bring the boost and power level of the Alpine supercharger kit for the 2.7L Tiburon up to Stage II level. With headers and catback and the addition of this pulley, you should see a boost increase of approximately 6lbs. Total boost you should see is around 6lbs.

$165.95 $145.95"

I called him about fitment. His reply on December 7:

"It will fit. Alpine used the same offset pulley that I use on my kits so there should be no problem with the offset."

To reach them:

http://ngmhouseofpower.com/product_info.php?products_id=126&osCsid=vndohh0gt8hs6slp1gvmao4pp3



That's all the news that fit to print : )

[WormGod]

Anybody wanna guinea pig that pulley? Don't look at "I". ;)

My concerns....

Proven on a 2.7L Tiburon.... I simply can't take someone's word for it when it isn't in writing (the website doesn't list a 3.5L VehiCROSS, so they will not be responsible). And to be honest, I don't know what the load bearing is on the existing Alpine unit. Could be that 5psi is at or close to the limit, considering the bearing issues it is prone to. And remember, Alpine didn't even offer the 5psi until just before they were discontinued. Anybody who is considering a swap, I would consider the consequences first.

I will guarantee the boost, but for how long before issues arise? :confused:

An all new S/C unit is the best option if you ask me. Something with better internals and not some damned nylon bearings.

Just some thoughts I have had on the issue.

[ScottinMA]

Gary,

Agreed. I just wanted to keep people up to date with the most recent chatter from Alpine. As for the other company, a telephone call to determine whether it is, in fact, at 53 mm pulley is simple.

[pbkid]

maybe this is a dumb question. but if you guys are having problems with the bearings....

why not have someone make you better ones? :_shrug:

i know there are plenty of places out there who will make you any type and size of bearing needed. my dad has a couple of companies he uses for trailers and whatnot.

[Ldub]

Gary,

Agreed. I just wanted to keep people up to date with the most recent chatter from Alpine. As for the other company, a telephone call to determine whether it is, in fact, at 53 mm pulley is simple.

I've been lookin' at this for a couple of days, & the pic on their website is what got me to digging...now I gotta be the turd again...:smilewink

According to this...

Alpine/NGM Stage II Supercharger Pulley 2.8"

This pulley was designed by NGM to bring the boost and power level of the Alpine supercharger kit for the 2.7L Tiburon up to Stage II level. With headers and catback and the addition of this pulley, you should see a boost increase of approximately 6lbs. Total boost you should see is around 6lbs.

$165.95 $145.95
This product was added to our catalog on Sunday 14 January, 2007.

The pulley they're offering is 2.8", the 5 lb. pulley on the Alpine S/C I've got, is approx (hey, it's cold out there) 2.25" outer lip - outer lip, which would put it near 2.125" actual dia.

Check me if I'm wrong here, but increasing the size of the driven pulley is going to make it spin slower.

It would stand to reason that their 6 lb. pulley is larger than our 5 lb. pulley because they're using a larger drive pulley on the crank.

We have a 6.5", 7.0", and 7.5". This pulley set will allow you to increase boost if you do not desire to change out the blower pulley. This set will also allow you to increase boost above and beyond the upper pulley change. We have plenty of combinations for you.


Our Alpine crank pulley measures approx 5", outer lip - outer lip.

[Gussie2000]

I've been lookin' at this for a couple of days, & the pic on their website is what got me to digging...now I gotta be the turd again...:smilewink

According to this...

Alpine/NGM Stage II Supercharger Pulley 2.8"

This pulley was designed by NGM to bring the boost and power level of the Alpine supercharger kit for the 2.7L Tiburon up to Stage II level. With headers and catback and the addition of this pulley, you should see a boost increase of approximately 6lbs. Total boost you should see is around 6lbs.

$165.95 $145.95
This product was added to our catalog on Sunday 14 January, 2007.

The pulley they're offering is 2.8", the 5 lb. pulley on the Alpine S/C I've got, is approx (hey, it's cold out there) 2.25" outer lip - outer lip, which would put it near 2.125" actual dia.

Check me if I'm wrong here, but increasing the size of the driven pulley is going to make it spin slower.

It would stand to reason that their 6 lb. pulley is larger than our 5 lb. pulley because they're using a larger drive pulley on the crank.

We have a 6.5", 7.0", and 7.5". This pulley set will allow you to increase boost if you do not desire to change out the blower pulley. This set will also allow you to increase boost above and beyond the upper pulley change. We have plenty of combinations for you.


Our Alpine crank pulley measures approx 5", outer lip - outer lip.

You absolutely right larry,adding the latest pulley to your guys m60 will make it slower,that's not what you guys are after.

So my guess is that if you guys want more power into the blower got to get both nose & crank pulley for optimus performace & more power

[ScottinMA]

Great analysis Dub.

As of this past Wednesday Alpine in SA was shipping the 5 lb pulley. The price was $65.00 and $10.00 for the bearing $16.00 shipping. Not bad. However, the company wanted wire transfer for payment rather than using a credit card and that cost me $30.00. Bummer but glad to get the OEM pulley.

[Ldub]

So my guess is that if you guys want more power into the blower got to get both nose & crank pulley for optimus performace & more power

I would love to have a billet crank piggyback sleeve with interchangable billet pulleys like these guys have...:drool:

http://ngmhouseofpower.com/product_info.php?cPath=38&products_id=143

I don't have the math skills required to figure out how much bigger the crank pulley would have to be to provide 6 lb boost, but the whole billet/interchangable thing has me thinkin'...:_thinking...:naughty:

[Gussie2000]

Great analysis Dub.

the company wanted wire transfer for payment rather than using a credit card and that cost me $30.00.



Funny though !

Master card,amex & visa " are all accepted worldwide " :mad:

[ScottinMA]

I don't have the math skills required to figure out how much bigger the crank pulley would have to be to provide 6 lb boost, but the whole billet/interchangable thing has me thinkin'...:_thinking...:naughty:

Well, if you do go forward with that project please keep me in mind. I was pretty excited about that factitious 6 lb pulley.

[Ldub]

Well, if you do go forward with that project please keep me in mind. I was pretty excited about that factitious 6 lb pulley.

I guess I shoulda said wishin' instead of thinkin'...:mbrasd:

However, if I ever hit the jackpot, maybe get a few sets CNC machined...:yesgray:

[WormGod]

Right, it's the "size" trick Dub. I didn't even think about the listed sizes.... I was just going off of the fact that it's advertised as a "6" psi. Glad someone pointed that out at least.

[Moncha]

Great analysis Dub.

As of this past Wednesday Alpine in SA was shipping the 5 lb pulley. The price was $65.00 and $10.00 for the bearing $16.00 shipping. Not bad. However, the company wanted wire transfer for payment rather than using a credit card and that cost me $30.00. Bummer but glad to get the OEM pulley.

Did you get the pulley??

You have to be vary careful when these guys switch to "Wire Transfer" as most of the times you'll not see anything in return.

[ScottinMA]

Did you get the pulley??

You have to be vary careful when these guys switch to "Wire Transfer" as most of the times you'll not see anything in return.

Today! Postal delivery required signature. A very curious postal worker tries to get it out of me......"what did ya get from South Africa?" I told him.....a pulley.....He was puzzled so I gave him a very brief version of the saga of finding the pulley from the company that once had an office in the US and was assumed by another company headquartered in SA.

Tomorrow it will be installed. I am SO happy!!!! I missed the extra ponies and torque...I had become spoiled...

Scott, good to hear your voice bossman!

The other

[Ldub]

Today!

Tomorrow it will be installed. I am SO happy!!!! I missed the extra ponies and torque...I had become spoiled...

Scott, good to hear your voice bossman!

:dance:...:thumbup:

[ScottinMA]

Mechanic just called. Pulley is perfect and SC is working fine. He wanted me to know he took if for a test drive and was impressed.

Life is good!

[Ldub]

:dance:...:thumbup:

X about eleventy-billion!

[ScottinMA]

dub if you lived closer I'd enjoy buying you a beer! If you are ever on the east coast....

[Ldub]

dub if you lived closer I'd enjoy buying you a beer! If you are ever on the east coast....

Next time I'm in the neighborhood...:_beer: