Still with these brakes!

[Francesco Rizzo]

Ok, got the calipers off and was trying to get the rotor off.. the workshop cd I have doesn't seem to say much about the rotors.. Anyway, here are about 8 -8mm hex bolts on the end of the rotor.. I got them all loose except for the last one, which I didn't notice was a lil stripped.. I went to turn is it and it was completely destroyed.. now I'm stuck with one last bolt.. I'm so heated. I tried using vise grips.. but it's stuck.. I don't want to spend more money, does anyone have any ideas. And no, I'm not bringing it into a shop despite all these problems.. Thanks

[Joe_Black]

Are the threads stripped and the bolt is just spinning in the hole or do you mean the bolt-head is rounded off?

[Francesco Rizzo]

the inside of the hex rounded off.. I kinda don't want to take it off because I don't think I can replace it. I was hoping someone would tell me I was doing it wrong and didn't have to removed this cap to get the rotor off.. the manual I have says nothing about taking the rotors off. Well, thanks Joe, you're always helpful

[Francesco Rizzo]

nice, dealer said it would have to be shipped, but they sell 2.75 each.

[thedutchguy]

a small chisel with a hamer mostly does the trick!
place the chisel under an angle in the direction you want the bolt to turn at the edge of the bolt head and tap it loose.

[Francesco Rizzo]

I might grind a slot into the top and then use an oversized flathead to try and torque it... I'll try the chisel though.

hey, by the way.. how do I get the rear rotors off?

What I don't get is how to discronnect the parking brake line.. I think that's what getting me right now

[Joe_Black]

If the buggered bolt/nut has enough clearance you can get a great removal tool from Sears. They usually come in a set for different size fasteners, so if you want to add to your tool selection get the big set for the best value.

http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00952166000
Craftsman Bolt/Nut Remover Set (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&pid=00952166000&cat=Hand+Tools,+General+Purpose&subcat=Bolt-Out,+Taps+%26+Dies&vertical=TOOL&ihtoken=1)

The rear caliper emergency cable is typically a bellcrank retaining the terminated cable from the yoke, and should slip right out of their positions once removed from tension(up and over type). You may have to back off the yoke adjuster if you can't get enough slack moving the caliper around. I wish you were doing this next month as I'm about to install a full set of Frozen Rotors, Axxis Ultimate pads, Independent 4X4 stainless lines and powdercoat all the calipers, so would be able to tell you a lot more than right now. ;) I don't have the manual handy, but it should give the full R&R procedure there.

[Francesco Rizzo]

ok, figured it out. There's a lil plug on the bottom-rear of the disk that needs to be removed. Inside you'll see a small gear which is used to adjust the parking brake. Take a flathead and turn it so the gear teeth move from bottom to top till it stops. Doing so will retract the parking/e-brake pads enough so that the disks can be pull out. Everything is pretty much straight forward with removing calipers, brackets, and pads. This hickup thing with the e-brake is what took me a few tries.. Actually it added to some 3 hours to what honestly could have taken 10-15 minute for each side. :mad:

[kpaske]

If it were me, I'd just drill it out. Get a good metal bit, about half the diameter of that bolt, and drill right through the middle. Then grab your vice graps, give a little twist, and it should come right out. Just be sure not to drill too deep if there is anything behind the bolt, and if there is, just use one of the other bolts to judge how deep to go. Also, be careful to drill straight through so you don't hose up the threaded hole.