How "screwed" am I, literally.

[nfpgasmask]

OK, so my oil drain plug is leaking. I changed my oil last week, and noticed drips this morning. I gave the plug a quarter turn thinking maybe I didn't tighten enough last time. This made it worse. The oil then started dripping faster. So, I figure its my copper washer, since I haven't replaced that in a while. So I went out and got a new one, and basically changed my oil again. I put the new washer on the plug and closed everything up.

The situation has not changed. Drip. Drip. Drip.

So, did I over tighten? Did I strip my threads?

Worst case scenario I guess would be a new oil pan. Is this something I should be able to get from Merlin or a salvage yard? Also, it looks like I could drop the oil pan without much trouble. There is a cross member there but it does not appear to be in the way too much. If this ends up being my solution, how screwed am I from a time/work/money point of view?

What about the Fumato valve option?

Uggg - Bart

[rowhard]

I don't know, maybe this isn't a good idea, but what about some teflon tape around the threads?????

[Triathlete]

Not sure if the teflon tape will hold up to the heat. If you could find a plug slightly larger you could re-thread the hole. Just have to be sure to get ALL the shavings out of the pan!

[Ldub]

Drop the oil again, & feel the inside of the drain hole with your finger to see if there are any sharp edges...if you draw back a bloody stump, you prolly did some damage to the threads.
OR I suppose you could put a rag over your finger & see if it snags on the sharp edges that used to be your threads, & forgo the whole "bloody stump" thing. :rolleyes:

I wouldn't use a Fumoto valve until you get a belly pan, to prevent removal by a rock.

If it's just buggered up a little, you may be able to chase the threads with the appropriate size tap...coated with grease or vaseline to trap any shavings.

[nfpgasmask]

Thanks guys. What about replacing the pan? Is that a stupid idea because it costs too much? I mean, I don't care about the money, as long as it isn't astronomical.

I don't know how I could have stripped it, but something ain't right here.

Bart

[Ldub]

I don't know how hard it is to pull the pan, as I've never had mine off, but it would seem the method of last resort to me.
Of course, I'm kinda lazy & always try the E-Z fix first. ;)

[rowhard]

Ldub, me too,.. on the E-Z fix. That's why I suggetsed the teflon tape. Not sure if there are different spec tapes, but I remember the Hyd. folks using it on aircraft hyd's, and those systems can get pretty hot.

[Joe_Black]

I wouldn't use a Fumoto valve until you get a belly pan, to prevent removal by a rock.
If you lose a Fumoto valve to a rock you've already lost a lot more to be concerned about.

Have you tried a plastic oil-drain washer? That's what I used before the wondrous Fumoto valve, and they're available at AutoZone and similar for less than a buck.

[nfpgasmask]

Hey Joe,

Right now I have a new copper washer on there. Its only dripping every so slightly, but the problem is I can't seem to get it to seal. I am afraid to try to tighten it more.

I have heard of rubber plugs too, but I don't know how that holds up to the heat either.

Is replacing the oil pan really that big of a deal? Looking under there it just looks like a bunch of bolts and you are home free. But trust me, I don't want to make matters worse.

Bart


If you lose a Fumoto valve to a rock you've already lost a lot more to be concerned about.

Have you tried a plastic oil-drain washer? That's what I used before the wondrous Fumoto valve, and they're available at AutoZone and similar for less than a buck.

[Chopper]

I don't think I'd tap it, or run a thread chaser thru there with it in place...pull it, run a larger tap thru there, and fit the corresponding bolt and washer to it. Or, just spend the $162.00, and pick up a new one...since you got it off and all :p

[nfpgasmask]

Yeah, if its $162 for a new pan, and the labor is something I can tackle myself, I would much rather go that route.

Bart


I don't think I'd tap it, or run a thread chaser thru there with it in place...pull it, run a larger tap thru there, and fit the corresponding bolt and washer to it. Or, just spend the $162.00, and pick up a new one...since you got it off and all :p

[Chopper]

The labor is nothing, really. Don't over tighten the pan bolts. Go to Ace, or Home Depot and buy a 30 buck torque wrench, and use it. The torque numbers are in the shop manual. Pick up the new gasket too.The Torque wrench will come in handy, when you do your wheel bearings and such.

[newthings]

Not to hijack the thread but --
If the pan is so easy to remove, then access to the rod bottoms should be easy. If that is so, then replacing the rod bering inserts from the bottom might be a good PM at 60+K? Yes?? I thought a bunch of hardware was in the way, but I never looked hard. I just turned 60K.
Roy

[nfpgasmask]

I will replace my pan if:

1) I can get a NEW one for under $300

2) I can do the work myself with out too much hassle

So Chop, have you dropped the VX oil pan before? It looks like all the bolts should be accessible and the cross member shouldn't be in the way. That is my only concern. I would imagine a new pan should come with a new gasket.

The annoying thing is that I have been changing my own oil with no leaks, and no problems for well over a year now and all of a sudden I have this problem? Maybe last time I changed my oil I somehow started the plug in at a slight angle and didn't notice or something....that's the only thing I can think of.

Bart

[Raque Thomas]

What about the product they use for stripped spark plugs - is it helicoil? I'd sure hate to pull that pan if there was an easier method that was pretty fool proof. They use this stuff for spark plug holes, so I'm sure it can stand the pressure and heat.

[IndianaVX]

Raque,
you beat me to it.....thats what i was thinking also, but i think you have to chase the threads for the coil to fit, so probably back to just tapping the hole again, and getting a bigger bolt. oh well
good luck with it bart. i would think it would be cheapest to just get a gasket, a tap, and matching plug.......the plug doesnt have to be oem. just has to stop the oil from comming out

[uncle_asa]

May be with the washer you had to replace the bolt itself?

[Joe_Black]

I've never had problems with the AutoZone plastic washers at all and they also have replacement oil plugs/bolts as well. So for a total parts investment of less than $4 plus the oil you can determine whether or not you need to monkey with the pan. Simple. If your averse to a Fumoto installation, do as Chopper suggests and chase the threads. Just remember that there is a difference between a tap designed to chase/clean threads and one to cut new threads. These are simple solutions for a simple problem, too simple to be sweating pan replacement.

If it does come to that, pan replacement is simple also. Just make sure you have a new gasket and a torque wrench as it's all to easy to over-torque and consequently break pan bolts.

[Chopper]

Bart, 162.00 for the pan...probably 15 or 20.00 for the gasket (they must be purchased seperately)....30.00 for a cheap torque wrench. You aren't gonna spend 200.00 on this repair. You will have to get a new plug as well...good time to upgrade to one of the easy drain types. Joe did an excelent step by step, complete with clear photos,(and his smilin' face) a while back. A ten year old can handle this one. Search tranny service. Don't be shy about this repair. Wayne

[nfpgasmask]

Well, it all depends on how easy it is to drop the pan, and also if that is not a process that could affect my VX in a negative way.

Bart


What about the product they use for stripped spark plugs - is it helicoil? I'd sure hate to pull that pan if there was an easier method that was pretty fool proof. They use this stuff for spark plug holes, so I'm sure it can stand the pressure and heat.

[nfpgasmask]

OK, just read the last couple posts from everyone. I'm gonna call my local dealer and Merlin tomorow and inquire about a new pan, gasket and plug. I like to take the best route as opposed to the cheap route. And if it is easy to drop that pan, then I shall. I am even willing to invest in a decent torque wrench to add to my tool collection also.

What brand/size torque wrench do you suggest I get for this job?

Thanks a bunch guys.

Bart

[etlsport]

bart, if you do this please take lots of photos, i would like to drop my pan just to see what is laying at the bottom of it because my oil comes out with strange bubbles that make me worried there are metal shavings... so id like to see whats at the bottom of my pan

also i was out at sears the other day and was about to buy a torque wrench.. and a guy came up to me and informed me that hes owned two craftsman torque wrenches.. and they both kind of sucked.. and ive read a few bad reviews on their website.. i got myself a husky one from home depot and that has worked out well so far.. but ive only used it twice lol

[nfpgasmask]

Sure, I will take tons of photos. I can't tell you how pissed off I am!!! :mad:

Bart


bart, if you do this please take lots of photos, i would like to drop my pan just to see what is laying at the bottom of it because my oil comes out with strange bubbles that make me worried there are metal shavings... so id like to see whats at the bottom of my pan

also i was out at sears the other day and was about to buy a torque wrench.. and a guy came up to me and informed me that hes owned two craftsman torque wrenches.. and they both kind of sucked.. and ive read a few bad reviews on their website.. i got myself a husky one from home depot and that has worked out well so far.. but ive only used it twice lol

[Ldub]

If you lose a Fumoto valve to a rock you've already lost a lot more to be concerned about.

Nothing against the Fumoto valve Joe, I have one myself & think it's the greatest thing since sliced bread...however, I use the one with a nipple on it & it does hang down almost an inch lower than the bottom of the pan.
In my usage application, every inch of ground clearance matters & any unprotected protrusion is a potential strap ride back to civilization. ;)

[VehiGAZ]

My (late) 2 cents...

I wouldn't do any tapping/chasing/helicoiling without removing the pan - that's just asking for trouble with metal shavings in the oil. Vaseline or not, you have no idea if you are going to get all of them. So if have to pull the pan one way or another, then why not just replace the pan altogether and get a nice new gasket.

Bart, do a search for "oil pan" before you start, though - I vaguely remember a discussion about a take-up tube that interfered with easy removal of the pan without removing the cross-member.


Etlsport - those bubbles in your oil can be caused by over-filling, because if you have enough in there, it can touch the moving parts just above the pan and froth up your oil like milk in a latte.

[Chopper]

I mentioned Joes pix, stupid me...that was for tranny service. The oil pan isn't any harder. If you need to drop the crossmember, it's only 4 bolts...they look to be maybe 15mm or so. No biggie. The torque wrench thing is easy... Stanley...Husky...you don't need an expensive one for this. You CAN spend more...I just dropped almost 400 bucks on an electronic one that does torque angles as well as twist. Unless you plan on doing heads, or building engines, you don't need to spend over 50 bucks...tops. Wayne

[Joe_Black]

My main torque wrench is a 3/8 Snap-On clicker that has served me well for almost 20 years. IIRC they're about $150 give or take and well worth it to have in the tool box, especially as you learn more and build your wrenching confidence. The biggest thing to remember about torque wrenches is to not drop them, as you'll need to send out for recalibration.

I've also got a 1" drive Caterpillar-brand that's about 4 feet long and good for a few hundred pounds of torque, but that's probably a lil' overkill. :p

[Chopper]

Give me a big enough lever, and I can lift the world.

[nfpgasmask]

VehiGAZ, thanks for the input. I will do a search.

Joe/Chop: Have either of you two personally dropped the oil pan? What do you know of this take up tube VehiGAZ talks about?

Thanks - Bart

[nfpgasmask]

OK, I just did a search and the best info I could find came in this thread (http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=8730&highlight=oil+pan).

I PMed Tobert to see if I can get a little more info about his experinece.

So, it looks like it might take some time and a little muscle, but I should be able to get the pan off.

Now, my question would then be, how much worse might my problem get if this turns out to be a pain to seal? The last thing I want, is to have a leaking oil pan as opposed to a slight drip coming from my plug.

Looks like the job to fix this might be a little more than I think...but I guess that is usually the way this stuff goes.

Bart

PS - I have heard good things about the Snap-On brand troque wrench. So aside from the Snap-On truck, where can I get one?

[Joe_Black]

PS - I have heard good things about the Snap-On brand troque wrench. So aside from the Snap-On truck, where can I get one?
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=55257&group_ID=954&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

Check eBay for reputable tool sellers as you can find some fairly discounted prices compared to the Snap-On web site, which isn't going to undercut their field reps.

[IndianaVX]

my .02...
a clicker torque wrench is better than the needle type, once you learn to read, or set the wrench to the torque you need. i just never really trusted the needle type.
although the needle type are cheper.

just throwin it out there...........

[Joe_Black]

The nice thing about a clicker is that you don't have to see it, whereas with a direct indicating ("needle type") torque wrench you have to not only be able to see the scale clearly but do so while applying the torque load. In most cases this requires you to crawl up into the dark greasy underside of whatever it is you're torqueing. ;) But yes, they are significantly less expensive than a clicker. Much like how a bicycle is much less expensive than a car, and will accomplish pretty much the same task with considerable effort.

[Triathlete]

Much like how a bicycle is much less expensive than a car

News flash...have you been in a bike shop lately? ;Dy;

http://www.bmc-cycling.com/images/BkView_tt01.jpg

BMC Time Machine TT01 (http://www.trisports.com/20bmctimatt.html) :_drool:
$12,250.00 for the FRAME ONLY!

[nfpgasmask]

So I've been reading....

Do we have a gasket on our oil pans or do we have silicone creating a seal?

Bart

[VehiGAZ]

Not sure about the seal, Bart - my guess would be gasket from Tobert's pics.

Speaking of which, he had the cross-member removed in those pictures, since you can see the whole bottom of the engine.

Good luck!

[Joe_Black]

News flash...have you been in a bike shop lately? ;Dy;

http://www.bmc-cycling.com/images/BkView_tt01.jpg

BMC Time Machine TT01 (http://www.trisports.com/20bmctimatt.html) :_drool:
$12,250.00 for the FRAME ONLY!
Okay Mr. Smarty-padded-pants, it's not like that's the Yaris of bicycles. I can throw equivalent cars at you if you like, so don't get all finicky with my analogies. :p LOL

Now I have to go talk nice to my Trek so it doesn't feel insignificant after seeing that. ;)

[nfpgasmask]

Yeah, I still need a little more confirmation before I take on the task of changing the pan. I haven't gotten any solid info as to if I can get the pan off without doing anything other than removing the bolts. I also need to find out about the seal, and if taking the pan off is going to be more trouble than its worth. I am still open to finding a solution without doing all of this. I might try a new plug and plastic gasket first, before I do anything else.

I wonder if I get a new plug though, if the threads are messed up, will I run the risk of making the problem worse? If the threads get stripped, is it usually the threads on the plug or the threads in the pan or both?

Still dripping,

Bart
:(

[nfpgasmask]

OK, I called Lithia Isuzu here in Reno and inquired about a new pan. They quoted me $231.75, no plug or plug gasket included. Thay also confirmed that the seal is silicone. No gasket.

So, then I called Merlin. He is drop shipping the part to me from Isuzu for $183.58, new plug and plug gasket included. Almost $50 cheaper and the plug is included! Hooray for Merlin!

AND, I also got a reply from Tobert. He confirmed that the gasket is silicone and said the job is not that hard. I replied and asked him about the cross member, just to be sure. He also suggested I try a new plug first. So far, all I have done is change the copper washer.

So, my remaining questions are still:

1) Do I need to move the cross member. (So far I think the answer is no, but I am not 100%)

2) What type of silicone sealer is best for this job?

3) If I buy a new plug of the same size, do I run the risk of shaving off some metal into the engine? If so, doesn't that stuff get trapped in the oil filter???

Thanks everyone for your help.

Bart

[tom4bren]

I've never pulled the pan from the VX but I have pulled one on a Dodge (eons ago). Remember that the pan is just in fact that - a pan. The oil pump reaches all the way to the bottom of the pan to suck up oil. There may be a screen on the end as well which would be about as big as half a coke can - then again there may not be.

The bottom line is that the pan will probably have to be lowered at least the depth of the pan in order to clear the intake. If you don't have that much clearance between the bottom of the pan and the crossmember then the crossmember will have to be moved/removed.

I think I would try the nylon washer route before swapping out the pan.

[nfpgasmask]

Hey, well, I got another reply back from Tobert and he said it is a little tight but shouldn't be a problem to remove. The cross member isn't really in the way.

But anyway, I am going to try a new plug today or tomorrow and see if I can get away with that.

Bart


I've never pulled the pan from the VX but I have pulled one on a Dodge (eons ago). Remember that the pan is just in fact that - a pan. The oil pump reaches all the way to the bottom of the pan to suck up oil. There may be a screen on the end as well which would be about as big as half a coke can - then again there may not be.

The bottom line is that the pan will probably have to be lowered at least the depth of the pan in order to clear the intake. If you don't have that much clearance between the bottom of the pan and the crossmember then the crossmember will have to be moved/removed.

I think I would try the nylon washer route before swapping out the pan.

[VehiGAZ]

Re: #3) Yes, you risk shaving metal into the engine, but yes, the filter should remove it. Still, you never know...

Re: "If the threads get stripped, is it usually the threads on the plug or the threads in the pan or both?" Good engineering practice would be to make the smaller removable piece (the plug) out of a softer metal than the larger and harder-to-remove piece (the pan) so that the plug gets sacrificed. But I don't think they always do that.

Examine the threads on the plug closely - use a magnifying glass if you can - and see what there is to see. Are there some threads that seem crushed in? Are there some that look like uneven compared to the rest? Do any show a glint of fresh metal? If you've stripped the threads or cross-threaded it, you should see some sign of unnatural wear.

If the problem is the threads, a plastic washer isn't going to help. You'll need a new plug.

Good luck!!

[Triathlete]

If your worried about the shavings when you put the new plug in you could always buy one of the magnetic plugs. Then screw it in, take it back out, remove any shavings stuck to it, reinsert and fill with oil!

[nfpgasmask]

Yeah, that is probably the route I will take....

Thanks- Bart


If your worried about the shavings when you put the new plug in you could always buy one of the magnetic plugs. Then screw it in, take it back out, remove any shavings stuck to it, reinsert and fill with oil!

[Tone]

The motor WILL have to lifted part of the way out to change the main oil pan. I have a spare if it gets to that - let me know.

[tom4bren]

"If the problem is the threads, a plastic washer isn't going to help. You'll need a new plug."

I don't agree. If the threads were the sole means of sealing the drain then spiral leaks would be a constant issue and teflon tape would be used to make the seal. The seal should be the washer (be it copper or nylon).

Just my 2 cents worth.

[patrick cooper]

had the same problem used 6 wraps of plumbers p,t,f,e tape around threds and used a softer aluminiun washer tape takes 600 degrees centrade so no problem with heat

[nfpgasmask]

Hey Tone,

Have you changed out the bottom oil pan before? Looking at the bottom half of the oil pan, it looks like all the bolts are accessible, and it looks like the pan will clear that cross member. From everyone I have talked with about it, it looks like we shouldn't have to do any "extra" work, but that aside, I haven't really gotten any 100% confident info from anyone.

So, what does lifting the engine a little entail? Is this because the bottom half of the pan won't clear the cross member with enough room to get it all the way off?

I'm hoping I don't have to go this route to begin with, but just in case I do, I have a new bottom oil pan on the way.

Thanks,

Bart


The motor WILL have to lifted part of the way out to change the main oil pan. I have a spare if it gets to that - let me know.

[nfpgasmask]

Well, then you have to change out that tape every time you change your oil, right?

I am really hoping a new plug and a softer washer will do the trick. This whole business of changing out the oil pan is probably going to be a much bigger undertaking than it looks to be.

Bart



had the same problem used 6 wraps of plumbers p,t,f,e tape around threds and used a softer aluminiun washer tape takes 600 degrees centrade so no problem with heat

[Joe_Black]

I am really hoping a new plug and a softer washer will do the trick. This whole business of changing out the oil pan is probably going to be a much bigger undertaking than it looks to be.

Bart
For the small amount of money and effort a new plug and plastic washer take you'll likely find it an adequate solution. The threads are probably buggered up a bit, but it'd literally take months and months of dripping without you ever checking the oil to lower the level significantly and it's not like the oil pan is under any kind of pressure that would blow out a sizeable bolt that has marginal seating. Yes, it's annoying to have some oil on the ground. Drive a Detroit Diesel 8V71 for a while and you'll never pay any attention to a drip or two ever again. :p

[nfpgasmask]

BUT JOE! ITS MY VX!!!! :) :) :)

Yeah, I know it isn't that serious. Its just annoying because I like my VX in top shape! I'm gonna try a new plug this week and pray it works for me. Aside from oil on my garage floor, I really don't like spilling it all over the road either....

I am just getting worried that changing out the pan is going to be a much, much bigger task and probably something I should not attempt myself, even though I am eager to learn and do these things. Too bad my VX is my only form of transportation...at the moment (the Falcon isn't here just yet).

Bart


For the small amount of money and effort a new plug and plastic washer take you'll likely find it an adequate solution. The threads are probably buggered up a bit, but it'd literally take months and months of dripping without you ever checking the oil to lower the level significantly and it's not like the oil pan is under any kind of pressure that would blow out a sizeable bolt that has marginal seating. Yes, it's annoying to have some oil on the ground. Drive a Detroit Diesel 8V71 for a while and you'll never pay any attention to a drip or two ever again. :p

[psychos2]

The washer is what seals the drain plug, not the threads. A new washer should take care of it unless the plug is going in at an angle so the gasket cannot seal.
shawn

[IndianaVX]

if you remove the pan, i would suggest this item for an easier installation. or i think easier, havent done it on a vx, but when i replaced my pan after an new engine install, i either found, or they came with the pan gasket these little clip things. turn your imagination on here........these things are about 1/4" round, and about 1 1/2" long. they are threaded on one end, and have little "barbs" on the other.

what you do is this,
you screw 4 of them in the bolt holes for the pan on 4 corners, in the block.....then, you lay your gasket, or in our case apperantly, bead of silicone around the pan.
then, you get under the truck, and line up the clip thingies with the corrosponding holes in the pan, and push up until the little barbs click the pan in place, and hold it there. now you can free up your hands to install all the other bolts snug, then remove/unscrew the clippy things, and install the last 4 bolts in their place. then tourqe everything down.
with these clips, once your pan is "clipped" in place, you dont have to worry about scraping the silicone off like you would if you were laying under your truck, bolts in your mouth, pan on your belly, hoping you can line up a hole and get a bolt in there and not smear silicone everywere but where its supposed to be trying to get another bolt from your mouth to its appropriate hole.
am i making sense? like i said, i dont know if autozone carries these, or if i got them with a gasket, but they sure made things easy-peasy. maybe someone else knows what they are called, and where to get em. i still have mine if you cant find em, and want to use them, ill send em to you. but i might want to check on thread size. its probably the same.
i will try to post a pic of these gems for clarification purposes

david

[nfpgasmask]

David, sounds like an interesting little tool tip!

My problem is that now Tone is telling me the engine will need to be lifted a little to remove the pan, and I have no idea what that entails, and I really don't think that is a task I can do myself. So, I am really hoping a new plug and gasket will do the trick.

Bart

[JHarris1385]

I would say a softer washer (nylon,rubber,plastic) will do the trick. Something that compresses slightly easier than copper to create a better seal. Then if that works, get a fumoto, or autozone actually has some for $12.99 but by a different manufacturer.

On the other hand, unbolting the crossmember does not seem to difficult and from the looks of it, that is all at most that would need to be done to get that pan off. I give this opinion becuase I almost dropped my pan last oil change just to re-seal it and clean off some gunk that resides around the front bolts on the pan.

[nfpgasmask]

Yeah, I am probably going to try to fix it tonight with a new plug and washer.

I would just like to talk with a mech who has dropped the pan before who knows absolutely the process here, because I have heard too many mixed opinions to know for sure. The last thing I want is to go under there, unbolt everything and knock loose the pan and then find out I can't get it all the way off. Then I will REALLY be screwed.

But I agree. From the looks of everything, the pan bolts are all accessible and it looks like there is enough room to drop it without doing anything other than unbolting.

Bart



I would say a softer washer (nylon,rubber,plastic) will do the trick. Something that compresses slightly easier than copper to create a better seal. Then if that works, get a fumoto, or autozone actually has some for $12.99 but by a different manufacturer.

On the other hand, unbolting the crossmember does not seem to difficult and from the looks of it, that is all at most that would need to be done to get that pan off. I give this opinion becuase I almost dropped my pan last oil change just to re-seal it and clean off some gunk that resides around the front bolts on the pan.

[nfpgasmask]

http://www.omfo.net/img/borat2.jpg

So, I went to Kragen and bought a magnetic oil pan plug with nylon gasket.

Got home, unscrewed the old plug and OMFG! How in the h3ll did I do this:

http://www.nofuture.com/myvx/plug01.jpg

The threads on the old plug were basically completely flat!!!

After the oil drained out, I cleaned up around the drain hole and then jacked up the front end, and shined a flashlight into the hole. I could see a little piece of stripped metal around the inner threads which I pulled out with some needle nose pliers. Behold:

http://www.nofuture.com/myvx/plug02.jpg

I waited a little while until the pan and oil cooled a little, and then I stuck my finger up the hole and the threads of the pan felt fine. So I then screwed in the new plug. It went in smooth and easy, and I did thread it in and out a couple times, using the magnetic tip to extract a few more tiny metal shavings from the pan threads.

After this thorough job, I closed everything up, and then changed the oil filter and refilled with fresh oil.

NO LEAKING!!!! :) :) :)

So, in the end, somehow I must have cross threaded the plug in last time I changed my oil and not just buggered up a little, but completely destroyed the original plug. Lucky for me, the threads on the inside of the pan did not suffer and significant damage, and my VX isn't bleeding anymore.

Whew. I'm happy now. Thanks everyone for all your help and knowledge.

:) Bart

[Ldub]

Said it before & I'll say it again...I just LOVE a happy ending! :cool:

Well done Bart, also, nice photography!

[etlsport]

what size plug did u get.. is there just a 22mm oil pan plug on the shelf? id like to find one of those since im constantly worried about metal in my oil... although i guess w/ an aluminum engine a magnet wouldnt do much good...

anyway glad it worked out for u!

[IndianaVX]

good job bart.....well, not on threading the origonal bolt in, but ...glad you got it fixed!!
and might i add....GREAT PICS!! *self* ((i cant hijack barts thread to find out what camera was used....yeah david, dont do that, i must not hijack, i must not hijack, let him bask in the joy of fixing his oil lead sucessfully))

job well done......

[nfpgasmask]

Thanks guys! I love a happy ending too. Whew. I was really worried about this for the last couple nights.

Etl: The size of the plug is M14 1.5.

Indiana: I have a few cameras, but for these shots I just used my little point and shoot Canon Powershot A620 with the macro (flower) enabled. I also have a decent lighting setup in my garage which helps, and I put the plugs on an old black leather glove for contrast.

So, how worried about the tiny little metal shavings should I be? I mean, I pulled out that big nasty one, and a bunch of really tiny pieces on the magnet, and changed my filter, so hopefully I will be ok.... ???

I just can't believe I did this. I must have started the plug in wrong last time I changed the oil and somehow didn't notice the resistance as I mashed it in there. I will say this though, I was in a hurry last time I changed the oil so in this case, I suppose haste once again made waste...

Bart

[Ldub]

So, how worried about the tiny little metal shavings should I be?

Bart


You're new friend, the magnetic drain plug, should be more than happy to earn it's keep. ;)

[nfpgasmask]

Thanks for the reassurance Dubster...

:) Bart


You're new friend, the magnetic drain plug, should be more than happy to earn it's keep. ;)

[tom4bren]

Glad to hear the quick fix worked. Even more than a happy ending, I love when it's cheap & easy.

[VehiGAZ]

Ah, high-five!!

etlsport raised a good point - the magnetic plug won't pick up aluminum shavings, so if you are concerned about additional shavings in your oil (and you probably should be), change your oil & filter a couple more times in the next 1000 miles.

tom4bren & psychos - so do you still disagree with me about the threads being important to sealing the drain plug? ;) What happened to Bart was what I was getting at - if you've messed up your threads so the plug doesn't stop tightening, it can't hold the gasket tightly enough to form a seal.

Yay!!! Mystery solved!!

[tom4bren]

VehiGAZ,

"...if you've messed up your threads so the plug doesn't stop tightening, it can't hold the gasket tightly enough to form a seal."

I hate when I'm wrong (I thought I was once - but that was a mistake) ... glad I wasn't here. In your own words you verified what I said. The threads don't make the seal, they compress the gasket that makes the seal. By the very nature of how threads engage, they can not make a seal unless suplimented with something like teflon tape.

Trust me, I've learned that lesson the hard way with MANY failed plumbing repairs.

Besides - who (even Bart) could have messed up the threads that badly???? Oh yes, that was me when I was installing Tone's seat extenders (my fault not Tone's).

[nfpgasmask]

LOL, I'm no mechanic, so it doesn't suprise me that I FUBARed something, but it all comes with experience I suppose.

What I learned from this is that you should never work on your VX (or anything you care about for that matter) if you are feeling rushed or hasty. I'm sure had I not been pressed for time, I wouldn't have messed things up.....I hope.

:) Bart



Besides - who (even Bart) could have messed up the threads that badly???? Oh yes, that was me when I was installing Tone's seat extenders (my fault ot Tone's).

[tom4bren]

"you should never work on your VX (or anything you care about for that matter) if you are feeling rushed or hasty"

My problem is that I usually have about 6 things going at once.

[nfpgasmask]

Yeah, me too. And this was definitely the case last weekend when I changed my oil. It just serves as a reminder that I need to take a breather, slow down, take a sip of my Blue Moon and do one thing at a time. :)

Bart


"you should never work on your VX (or anything you care about for that matter) if you are feeling rushed or hasty"

My problem is that I usually have about 6 things going at once.

[VehiGAZ]

"you should never work on your VX (or anything you care about for that matter) if you are feeling rushed or hasty"

Ain't that the truth! On the other hand, I have achieved glorious automotive feats while rushing... I once reseated a valve cover gasket on a hot engine in about 20 minutes, and changed all four sets of brake pads in 58 minutes (both on a 1979 Volvo).

You're an amazing stripper by any measure, Bart!

[nfpgasmask]

I still don't know how I turned a bolt into a nail.... :confused:

Bart


Ain't that the truth! On the other hand, I have achieved glorious automotive feats while rushing... I once reseated a valve cover gasket on a hot engine in about 20 minutes, and changed all four sets of brake pads in 58 minutes (both on a 1979 Volvo).

You're an amazing stripper by any measure, Bart!