How do I replace the front brake rotors?

[VehiGAZ]

Ok, I'm going to replace my front brake rotors and pads this weekend. I went through the workshop manual CD last night, but did not find it very elucidating when it comes to the details. So today I did a forum search on the procedure - all I found were people asking how to remove the rotors but no real responses. So I guess I'll join their club...

Does anyone know exactly how to remove the front rotors?

Here's a picture heartlessly hijacked from Cyrk's gallery...
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/thumbs/39brakes1.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/2620)

Note the two sets of bolts going into the rotor... the smaller ones near the hub and the larger ones just inside of the wheel studs. Which of these sets of bolts must be removed to replace the rotors? Please share any other interesting bits of info regarding this job if you know them.

Thanks!!

[Ascinder]

The outer set if memory serves. You should also get something to compress the brake piston if you have new(er) pads and or rotors, sometimes it's a tight fit.

[nfpgasmask]

Yeah, that's why I opt to have a shop do my brakes. This is one job I feel is best left to the pros. Brakes are something you don't want messed up.

Bart

[Chopper]

Yeah, that's why I opt to have a shop do my brakes. This is one job I feel is best left to the pros. Brakes are something you don't want messed up.

Bart Once you really look at them, and run thru it with someone once or twice it's easy. No black art...hydraulics 101. Easiest system on a vehicle to get sorted. Certainly not beyond you.... You can spell:p

[MSHardeman]

Kenny did a really nice write up on replacing his front brake rotors that also included repacking the front bearings. Check out this thread:

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=11324

There was also a write up on one of the other Isuzu sites that I downloaded, but can't find the link right now. It doesn't look too tough, and actually I'm about to tackle replacing the rotors and brake pads on all four corners and repacking the front bearings. I'm waiting for warmer weather so if it goes horribly wrong I can ride my bike to work while a shop fixes my screw ups. I would have a shop do it in the first place, but....well I'm cheap, and I'm kind of looking forward to getting grease under my fingernails.

[Ldub]

I would have a shop do it in the first place, but....well I'm cheap, and I'm kind of looking forward to getting grease under my fingernails.

It's also the only way to keep ham fisted, knuckle dragging, mouth breathing mooks from screwing it up...DIY!!!:_wrench:...:thumbup:

[VehiGAZ]

Well - much to report...

First off, thanks for the link to the wonderful write-up MSHardeman!! My forum searches didn't find that one for some reason. :-( I found a different thread last night at home (and the planet Isuzu links), and after reading about needing a special, hard-to-find hub tool, retapping screw holes, repacking bearings, etc. just to get at the rotors, I decided that this was something better left to the dealer, especially since I didn't have a whole weekend anytime soon to spend on the project, so I returned the rotors & pads I bought from Autozone.

This morning, I called the dealer to find out how much they wanted for the job, and my head almost popped off...

$843.95 to replace front pads & rotors and repack bearings!!

HS!!! WTF?!?! Are you freaking kidding me?!

Oh, and they weren't showing the rotors ($250 a piece!) in the distribution system, so they might need to be shipped from Japan, so it could take a month just to get all the parts (Isuzu is no longer restocking their part inventory in the US, but will provide them from Japan as needed). Welcome to our collective future, my friends...

Needless to say, I will not be taking it to the dealer for a brake job. I can get all the parts from Autozone for about $150. I guess I will find a weekend to devote to this to save the other $700 (or find a mechanic that will install the Autozone parts).

[etlsport]

Well - much to report...

First off, thanks for the link to the wonderful write-up MSHardeman!! My forum searches didn't find that one for some reason. :-( I found a different thread last night at home (and the planet Isuzu links), and after reading about needing a special, hard-to-find hub tool, retapping screw holes, repacking bearings, etc. just to get at the rotors, I decided that this was something better left to the dealer, especially since I didn't have a whole weekend anytime soon to spend on the project, so I returned the rotors & pads I bought from Autozone.

This morning, I called the dealer to find out how much they wanted for the job, and my head almost popped off...

$843.95 to replace front pads & rotors and repack bearings!!

HS!!! WTF?!?! Are you freaking kidding me?!

Oh, and they weren't showing the rotors ($250 a piece!) in the distribution system, so they might need to be shipped from Japan, so it could take a month just to get all the parts (Isuzu is no longer restocking their part inventory in the US, but will provide them from Japan as needed). Welcome to our collective future, my friends...

Needless to say, I will not be taking it to the dealer for a brake job. I can get all the parts from Autozone for about $150. I guess I will find a weekend to devote to this to save the other $700 (or find a mechanic that will install the Autozone parts).

yea thats about the right ballpark.. i took mine in for the bearing repack, they recommended doing my brakes, i said ok to the fronts since it was already being taken apart and asked them to give me a set of rear pads
and i would do them myself.. still wound up costing me about 800.. and it took them 3 days because apparently the guy put everything back together wrong, so they called me and said umm sorry its going to be another day or two cause we have to order this and this and this

[MSHardeman]

FOUND IT!! I knew that I downloaded an indepth how-to regarding repacking the front bearings (see link below), but this may be the same one that you found. In the instructions they tell you how to modify a Ford (I think) hub tool into the hard-to-find Isuzu version. I don't remember reading about re-tapping holes so maybe I should read it again before I go diving into this.

http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm?id=56&Isuzu_Front_Bearing_Repack

I'm with Dub, though. I don't have darn near $800 to spend on a bearing repack/ disc replacment, and I really don't want some shop jockey trying to get my VX in before lunch and forgetting to replace half of the stuff he took out. I've actually never had an issue with any shop I've been to, but I've heard horror stories of mechanics forgetting to put oil pan plugs back in during an oil change. OUCH!!

I say give it a shot.

[Ascinder]

That hub tool is unnecessay, just use a punch or screwdriver and gently tap with a light mallet, it'll come right off. To reinstall do the reverse and check the preload with a fishing scale.

[VehiGAZ]

check the preload with a fishing scale.

Um, huh?

[JHarris1385]

Man this makes me love my mechanic evenmore. He only charged me $25 to repack my front bearings.

[Kenny]

Well - much to report...

First off, thanks for the link to the wonderful write-up MSHardeman!! My forum searches didn't find that one for some reason. :-( I found a different thread last night at home (and the planet Isuzu links), and after reading about needing a special, hard-to-find hub tool, retapping screw holes, repacking bearings, etc. just to get at the rotors, I decided that this was something better left to the dealer, especially since I didn't have a whole weekend anytime soon to spend on the project, so I returned the rotors & pads I bought from Autozone.

This morning, I called the dealer to find out how much they wanted for the job, and my head almost popped off...

$843.95 to replace front pads & rotors and repack bearings!!

HS!!! WTF?!?! Are you freaking kidding me?!

Oh, and they weren't showing the rotors ($250 a piece!) in the distribution system, so they might need to be shipped from Japan, so it could take a month just to get all the parts (Isuzu is no longer restocking their part inventory in the US, but will provide them from Japan as needed). Welcome to our collective future, my friends...

Needless to say, I will not be taking it to the dealer for a brake job. I can get all the parts from Autozone for about $150. I guess I will find a weekend to devote to this to save the other $700 (or find a mechanic that will install the Autozone parts).

If you want, you can PM me for details - or when you're ready to do it, I can put up a few more pics with instructions in this post.

Some thoughts to start with....
Replace bearings if you are doing the front hub, there is a lot of repetitious work and grease integrity is compromised when you pull off the hub. For hub removal, a Hub tool is not really required. Fish spring scale is easy to find. But I would get an impact screwdriver for those soft Phillips screws. I would also strongly suggest getting new snap rings to replace old ones. If not doing bearings at this time (Dooo-eeeet),then I would put the hub assembly in a plastic bag as you take it off, don't let dirt get into the grease. Plug the back opening so dirt won't fall is as you take the rotor off the hub.

As for bearing re-pack.
Suggest replacing bearings, not just repack, since you are in up to your elbows anyways.
And RENT A GOOD BEARING REMOVAL/INSTALL TOOL - that will save you hours and hours and hours of time.
Get new seals, don't re-use old ones.

It's a hoot to do.:rolleyes: Not hard, just time consuming.

[Kenny]

Um, huh?

It shows it in the planetisuzu guide and maintenance manual.
Easy to do.

[Rooster]

Just did my brakes today. What a PITA...

Not hard, but my VX has been sitting for some time and a good coat of rust settled in..

[Triathlete]

...so they might need to be shipped from Japan, so it could take a month just to get all the parts (Isuzu is no longer restocking their part inventory in the US, but will provide them from Japan as needed).


What kind of slow airplane are they using? I flew from the North Carolina coast to Japan in 20 hours!

[VehiGAZ]

No planes involved, I'm sure. Do you know how much a rotor weighs? It would double the cost to fly it here. I'm sure they ship parts on the slow boat (the one from Japan, though).

[CowboyErik]

What are the benefits repacking bearings when swapping rotors; is it better to replace those also?

[Ldub]

What are the benefits repacking bearings when swapping rotors; is it better to replace those also?

:_wrench:
All lubricants break down with time/use.
Examine the bearings upon disassembly/cleaning, if there is any sign of scorching (brown-almost black discoloration on the rollers), they should be replaced.(I found new @ Auto Zone)
Some replace bearings every time they are due for repacking (every 30-40k), because they aren't THAT expensive, & since you already have it all apart anyway, why not.
Any bearing that is replaced, should also have a new race, the part that the bearing contacts inside the hub, all new bearings come with a new race.

Always replace the seals.

[TheGanzman]

Pardon the dissenting opinion about replacing the wheel bearings from an "old school" wrench...

Check your "country of origin" on those shiny new wheel bearings from Auto Zone or the like - my bet is they'll be from "a country not KNOWN for their wheel bearing technology" to put it nicely. Now check the country of origin on your OEM wheel bearings - Ahhhh...

My own experience w/front wheel bearings is that as long as they've had reasonable access to proper lubrication for their life SO far, as long as the bearing seal has never been "violated", as long as they haven't seen contaminants/water intrusion, their useful life is ~200K miles with proper repacking (I personally recommend Mobil 1 synthetic grease). As previously mentioned, a proper examination is in order - evidence of rust, scoring, excessive heat, etc. is CLEARLY visible on the bearing and/or race surfaces. If they AIN'T bad, keep USIN' 'em!

I've tested the "new" bearings from Auto Zone and the like with dial indicators - they're SH*TE! I can only imagine the metallurgy of those things - can you say "recycled steel"? Sure, I knew that you could...

Just my .02, from an old geezer...

[Ldub]

Pardon the dissenting opinion about replacing the wheel bearings from an "old school" wrench...

Check your "country of origin" on those shiny new wheel bearings from Auto Zone or the like - my bet is they'll be from "a country not KNOWN for their wheel bearing technology" to put it nicely. Now check the country of origin on your OEM wheel bearings - Ahhhh...

My own experience w/front wheel bearings is that as long as they've had reasonable access to proper lubrication for their life SO far, as long as the bearing seal has never been "violated", as long as they haven't seen contaminants/water intrusion, their useful life is ~200K miles with proper repacking (I personally recommend Mobil 1 synthetic grease). As previously mentioned, a proper examination is in order - evidence of rust, scoring, excessive heat, etc. is CLEARLY visible on the bearing and/or race surfaces. If they AIN'T bad, keep USIN' 'em!

I've tested the "new" bearings from Auto Zone and the like with dial indicators - they're SH*TE! I can only imagine the metallurgy of those things - can you say "recycled steel"? Sure, I knew that you could...

Just my .02, from an old geezer...

Good point on the quality issue, last time I did mine, I found one scorched & didn't have time to wait for a new one from Merlin, so I hitched a ride to the nearest parts store...:rolleyesg

Speaking of contaminant intrusion, I've found that "spirited" splashing through 3-4" deep puddles is enough to introduce water/mud into the hub.

Can you say "red iron range mud"? ...:smilewink

[Ldub]

Just checked & it's official...my memory is slipping...:sighwgray

My replacement bearing was from NAPA, made in Chermany...oh well, I feel a little better about the quality anyway.
Also, Mobil 1 synth...:thumbup:

[snowtrooper1966]

Also, don't forget to paint your calipers when your knee deep in this project already. Did mine with a two part brushable epoxy so there was no masking involved. Just remember to clean with a solvent and brake cleaner (naturally) and scrape off the rust first! Well worth the extra time:

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o23/snowtrooper1966/1front.jpg

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o23/snowtrooper1966/6reartire.jpg

Also used the R1 Concepts rotors. Cheaper than the OEM,s IIRC.

eBay link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ISUZU-VEHICROSS-99-00-01-Rear-Drill-Slot-Brake-Rotors_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33564QQihZ012QQi temZ220336877550QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

And don't scrimp on the pads! I ran out of dough and used Raybestos, but think the extra dough and a little patience would have made a difference. OEM from Merlin! 'Nuff said!
Best,