Front & Real Differential Fluids

[nfpgasmask]

So, I wanted to start a thread for info on our differentials and what kinds of fluid to put in. I know we need some LSD in the rear, but I have no idea what to buy or how much.

I also would like to get a good step-by-step from someone who has done their diffs so I can do mine. I did a search and couldn't really find a solid thread about this.

Ldub, I nominate you to write this up for us! :)

Bart

[ZEUS]

I'm running Royal Purple in there too - check the manual for rec. weights and amounts.

[nfpgasmask]

I'm running Royal Purple in there too - check the manual for rec. weights and amounts.

Yeah, I printed the whole thing out last month, I might as well use it, eh? So RP diff fluid in the front and rear, and what about your LSD fluid? What did you put in? Are they easy to drain and fill? Do you need to pump it in or syphon it in like the tranny?

Bart

[ZEUS]

Everybody keeps forgetting I have an open rear diff - no LSD. But to my understanding, Royal Purple has qualities in it comparable to an LSD additive already. Check it out. The front is easy to drain and fill - the rear I think is easy to drain but a little more challenging to fill. The front is just a bolt that is removed - it is the bolt at the very bottom of the 3rd member. It acts as a bolt and a plug. Once fliud stops coming out, put the bolt back in and fill er up until fluid starts coming out of the fill hole then plug it again. I think we had to pump fluid into the rear diff but it has been over a year and a half ago, so I forget.

[nfpgasmask]

Everybody keeps forgetting I have an open rear diff - no LSD. But to my understanding, Royal Purple has qualities in it comparable to an LSD additive already. Check it out. The front is easy to drain and fill - the rear I think is easy to drain but a little more challenging to fill. The front is just a bolt that is removed - it is the bolt at the very bottom of the 3rd member. It acts as a bolt and a plug. Once fliud stops coming out, put the bolt back in and fill er up until fluid starts coming out of the fill hole then plug it again. I think we had to pump fluid into the rear diff but it has been over a year and a half ago, so I forget.

So there is a drain and fill plug, just like everywhere else. I bet the syphon method will work good.

Hopefully some others will chime in with what fluids they are running in their diffs. Thanks, Justin.

Bart

[JHarris1385]

I forgot the brand but I used syn with lsd in the back. Better to be over than under on your lsd. I forget the amounts and numbers but I swear I have a thread on this somewhere. MAKE SURE to be on a level ground. I did not have to use any funnels or syphons at all. I just cut the tip of the bottle to an angle.

[Joe Isuzu]

I did it recently, I'm probably the only person that didn't go synthetic but I read the bottle and made certain it had all the necessary acronyms other threads said we needed
also, doing this was FAR easier than the tranny job, nothing to remove other than the drain and refill bolts, probably the hardest thing was to find the drain tube for the front axle
and the bottles have nice little tips on them, it wasn't as easy as simply squeezing in the fluid, but it was very easy to squeeze the fluid into a plastic tube and put the tube in the fill hole
going by memory, it should be like 2 hours tops for both, the more times you do it, the quicker it will be

[kodiak]

I did it recently, I'm probably the only person that didn't go synthetic but I read the bottle and made certain it had all the necessary acronyms other threads said we needed
also, doing this was FAR easier than the tranny job, nothing to remove other than the drain and refill bolts, probably the hardest thing was to find the drain tube for the front axle
and the bottles have nice little tips on them, it wasn't as easy as simply squeezing in the fluid, but it was very easy to squeeze the fluid into a plastic tube and put the tube in the fill hole
going by memory, it should be like 2 hours tops for both, the more times you do it, the quicker it will be

Thanks for the info, It sound like a painless process and besides I like working on my baby.

[Triathlete]

I am running Mobil1 and I added a bottle of LSD additive. It won't hurt to put it in, it can hurt if neded and not used and there seemed to be differing opinions on weather or not it was needed with synthetics. It is cheap insurance...somewhere around $5 for a bottle/tube (whatever it came in).
It is a fairly easy job (probably a 2 out of 10). I found my drain hole on the front to be clogged. Also found that a cheap fluid pump helps to make it easier but is not needed. Good luck!

[nfpgasmask]

I am running Mobil1 and I added a bottle of LSD additive. It won't hurt to put it in, it can hurt if neded and not used and there seemed to be differing opinions on weather or not it was needed with synthetics. It is cheap insurance...somewhere around $5 for a bottle/tube (whatever it came in).
It is a fairly easy job (probably a 2 out of 10). I found my drain hole on the front to be clogged. Also found that a cheap fluid pump helps to make it easier but is not needed. Good luck!

Billy, so Mobile-1 makes a synth for the diffs. I might as well use that since I am already Mobile-1 everywhere else. Thanks.

Bart

[Ldub]

Go for a 5-10 mile drive before you drain, to get as much gunk in suspension as possible...also drains better when warmed up.

As mentioned earlier, the lowest bolt that fastens the front third member is used as the drain...bring a coat hanger under there with you, it'll most likely be clogged.

Look at which side the rear drain hole is on & jack up the other side of the axle a few inches, if you want to drain out the most old stuff possible.

Most gear lubes come in a bottle with a longer tip, so you can squeez them into the fill hole, even though it's on a verticle plane.

[circmand]

I have never done it to my knowledge and am at 50000.
I think they need to add an icon of someone scratching their *** to cover my postings

[tomdietrying]

I asked that question a few years ago. Here's what Tone wrote to me:

Quantities have been posted many times before and are also listing in your owners manual - please try the search function.

Approx amounts are as follows:
Tranny flush - at least 10 qts Dexron III
Tranny filter or drain - 4 qts Dexron III
TOD/Transfer - 2qts Dexron III
Front diff - 1.5qts
Rear diff - 2qts
75/140 in both is fine in Texas unless we have a cold winter

Can't change any fluids too often - see manual for time/mileage periods

@ 30K you also should be having your wheel bearings repacked....

Hope this helps.

Peace.
Tom
012009

[nfpgasmask]

Thanks Tom. Much appreciated. I'll be doing this soon with the Reno boys, hopefully.

Bart

[MSHardeman]

Bart,

I just found shop with a couple of good guys, and they are pushing the "green" thing. They use Amsoil exclusively and I recently had them replace my front and rear diff. fluid, transmission fluid, and transfer case fluid with the stuff. Apparently Amsoil has been "synthetic" since like 1920 (it's a corn based lubricant) and it's supposed to last forever. Well, not really, but Amsoil states that the transmission fluid is good for 500,000 miles. They also state that their oil is good for 25,000 miles between changes. There are some additives that you have to pour in every now and then, but that's about it. I didn't do the oil because I just don't trust a 25,000 mile oil yet.

Anyway, all of that is to say that when they where changing the fluids out they said that the old stuff was in fantastic shape and could have gone another 70,000 miles (the VX just turned 70k after Moab). To my knowledge those fluids where never changed by the previous owner so it seems like Isuzu put some good stuff in there to begin with.

[nfpgasmask]

Cool, thanks for the info, Mark. Our VXes are the same age...that's so cute. :p :laughing:

I had my diffs done right before I left Chicago, so its time.

Bart

[Kenny]

I asked that question a few years ago. Here's what Tone wrote to me:

Quantities have been posted many times before and are also listing in your owners manual - please try the search function.

Approx amounts are as follows:
Tranny flush - at least 10 qts Dexron III
Tranny filter or drain - 4 qts Dexron III
TOD/Transfer - 2qts Dexron III
Front diff - 1.5qts
Rear diff - 2qts
75/140 in both is fine in Texas unless we have a cold winter

Can't change any fluids too often - see manual for time/mileage periods

@ 30K you also should be having your wheel bearings repacked....

Hope this helps.

Peace.
Tom
012009

I would also add that we can use the ATF fluid for our power steering fluid.
So when getting a case - get a bit more to flush the power steering juice.

And-
Probably doesn't affect you, in your temperature zone - but the manual has different viscosities for fluid for front and back diffs. Others should check their local low temp for proper selection.


I did all my fluids myself last year. Pretty painless. Maybe I can do a how to for all if needed....

Some Data sheets:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/fluids.jpg

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/capacities.jpg

and another list..

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/key_specs.jpg

might help some people.

[Ldub]

Bart,
They use Amsoil exclusively and I recently had them replace my front and rear diff. fluid, transmission fluid, and transfer case fluid with the stuff. Apparently Amsoil has been "synthetic" since like 1920 (it's a corn based lubricant) and it's supposed to last forever. Well, not really, but Amsoil states that the transmission fluid is good for 500,000 miles. They also state that their oil is good for 25,000 miles between changes. There are some additives that you have to pour in every now and then, but that's about it. I didn't do the oil because I just don't trust a 25,000 mile oil yet.

Anyway, all of that is to say that when they where changing the fluids out they said that the old stuff was in fantastic shape and could have gone another 70,000 miles (the VX just turned 70k after Moab). To my knowledge those fluids where never changed by the previous owner so it seems like Isuzu put some good stuff in there to begin with.


I'm completely in agreementalness with Mark...I have run nothing but Amsoil in every orfice since about 20k, & I think my oil usage during the Moab excursion (1 qt. in almost 2500 mi.) speaks for itself.

It's more expen$ive to use @ regular change intervals, & there's no WAY I'd go 25k on an oil change...but there's nothing too good for Suzy.:thumbup:

IMO, it's the "good stuff".

[Triathlete]

If you do any water crossings you will want to change your diff fluid more often as water can get in through the breathers (unless you have extended them to higher ground).

[SilverBullet75]

Kenny,
Thank you for posting those!
I never had a manual, and those specs will also (hopefully) help sell my '99.
Thanks again!
---JIM---

[nfpgasmask]

Yes, thanks Kenny. I know I have all this info in the manual, but you just made it nice and easy. I think I am going to go buy some fluids today and try to get the diffs dones this weekend.

Bart

[PK]

I notice in the above post #17, the timing belt change interval is 100,000 miles. Would that also apply to the JDM 3.2L engine??
I believe our 3.2L engines are dual overhead cams - aren't they??
The single overhead cam 3.2L engine used in most Rodeos and Jackeroos in Australia requires changing at 100,000 KM (62,000miles).

I have just ticked over 104,000 KM and want to be safe.

Appreciate your input guys.

PK

[nfpgasmask]

I don't like doing things unless I am 100% sure.

Can someone point out which is the drain and which is the fill? I assume the big plug that is high up is the fill port. Now, according to Dub's earlier post, the lowest bolt should be the drain, so which one is it exactly?

Fill???
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/frontdiff2.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/11506)

Drain???
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/frontdiff1.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/11505)

In the above photo you can clearly see the dripping problem I have also. I think Jharris might be right about it being the seal there. The manual mentions this as a potential problem.

Bart

[Ldub]

I don't like doing things unless I am 100% sure.

Can someone point out which is the drain and which is the fill? I assume the big plug that is high up is the fill port. Now, according to Dub's earlier post, the lowest bolt should be the drain, so which one is it exactly?

Fill???
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/frontdiff2.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/11506)

Drain???
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/frontdiff1.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/11505)

In the above photo you can clearly see the dripping problem I have also. I think Jharris might be right about it being the seal there. The manual mentions this as a potential problem.

Bart

It's hard to tell from this angle, but I think it's this one...

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/0001.jpg

In any event, it's the one closest to the ground.:_wrench:

And you are correct in your assumtion that the upper ones are the fill/level check holes.

[nfpgasmask]

You're the best, Dub. I figured that was it, but with your red circle, now I am certain.

Thanks -Bart

[nfpgasmask]

One more thing, does anyone know the size of the socket needed for the diffs? I need to get one I think.

Thanks - Bart

[Ldub]

One more thing, does anyone know the size of the socket needed for the diffs? I need to get one I think.

Thanks - Bart

:_wrench: Don't know the size, but you could give it a shot with a large crescent wrench. Snug it up tight & give it a few persuasive gestures with the heel of your palm...:_wrench:...:thumbup:

Worst case scenario, you bloody up some knuckles, learn new swear words, & have to clean up the head of the plug with a file...so a socket will fit.:smilewink

[etlsport]

hmm i forget the size.. i want to say the rear is 24mm.. but it could also be 25 :_confused

word to the wise... take the fill plug off first... its unfortunate to get the fluid drained out only to realize you cant get the fill plug off

[nfpgasmask]

hmm i forget the size.. i want to say the rear is 24mm.. but it could also be 25 :_confused

word to the wise... take the fill plug off first... its unfortunate to get the fluid drained out only to realize you cant get the fill plug off

Good tip, Etl, thanks. I was going to do everything yesterday, but I just didn't get to it. :( Next week hopefully.

Bart

[VCrossfan]

Royal Purple front/rear...No LSD needed

[Dare2Dream]

Is there a need to use anything to reseal the drain hole? What do you guys use?

[Ascinder]

I never use anything to reseal the fill or drain, but you could use some silicone gasket maker like permatex ultrablack. It's high temp and largely impervious to almost all automotive fluids. Mine have never leaked or seeped, so if yours does, check for it being cross threaded, and also check the part of the plugs seating surface for knicks or burrs.

[nfpgasmask]

OK, I am right in the middle of doing this right now, and looking at the rear diff capacities Kenny posted earlier, it says 2.3 quarts on list and 3.2 quarts on the other?????????????

WHICH ONE IS IT???? Also, does anyone know the torque specs for the drain and fill holes?

Thanks - Bart

[Ldub]

From the knowlege base on the left side-bar...:smilewink

CAPACITIES
Oil change: w/filter 4.3 qt. (4.0L)
Automatic trans: 9.1 qt. (8.6L)
Transfer case: 2.0 qt. (1.9L)
Front differential: 1.5 qt. (1.4L)
Rear differential: 3.2 qt. (3.0L)
Fuel tank: 22.5 gal. (85L)
Cooling system: 7.4 qt. (7.1L)
Refrigerant: R134a, 1.43 lb. (650g)
Compressor: PAG, 3.0 oz. (90cc)

[nfpgasmask]

From the knowlege base on the left side-bar...:smilewink

CAPACITIES
Oil change: w/filter 4.3 qt. (4.0L)
Automatic trans: 9.1 qt. (8.6L)
Transfer case: 2.0 qt. (1.9L)
Front differential: 1.5 qt. (1.4L)
Rear differential: 3.2 qt. (3.0L)
Fuel tank: 22.5 gal. (85L)
Cooling system: 7.4 qt. (7.1L)
Refrigerant: R134a, 1.43 lb. (650g)
Compressor: PAG, 3.0 oz. (90cc)

OK well, one list says 3.2, and one says 2.3, that is why I am confused. Furthermore, I put in roughly 2 quarts and then it started to dribble out. Is that enough? Or do I need to get another quart in there????

Thanks,
Bart

[Ldub]

OK well, one list says 3.2, and one says 2.3, that is why I am confused. Furthermore, I put in roughly 2 quarts and then it started to dribble out. Is that enough? Or do I need to get another quart in there????

Thanks,
Bart

Once it dribbles out, it's full. It would be a good idea to check it in a couple of days, just to make sure.:_wrench:

[Greasemonkey]

Hi the diff plugs should have a thin copper ring the same as the transfer and gear box have - in adddition i wouldn't leave the timing belt for the 100,000 miles that Isuzu recommend - 100,000 km maybe but not miles
cheers
Steve

[PK]

- in adddition i wouldn't leave the timing belt for the 100,000 miles that Isuzu recommend - 100,000 km maybe but not miles
cheers
Steve

Thanks Steve, I thought that little question had passed over everyones head.
Looks like I am up for a timing belt and tensioner change then. Another weekend with the Mrs nagging that I don't do anything for her.
Oh well - amazing how my hearing deteriorates after a few beers.:)
PK

[etlsport]

just curious.. when checking the fluid in the rear diff.. i take the filler plug out and there is a pressure release - hissing like opening a bottle of soda for the first time.. level seems fine, it dribbles out once the plug is removed completely.. dont have any issues with it.. just something that strikes me as odd as i dont see any reason there should be pressure buildup in the diff

anyone else experience this?

[tom4bren]

Eric,

I know the front pumpkin has a breather tube on the driver's side. I've never looked for one on the rear. If there is one and your's is clogged, that could cause the pressure differential.

Tom

[Doomer]

I use Royal Purple in Front/Rear ends, and Dexron IV in Tranny & transfer case. It's a synthetic, but good for Dexron III trans. Also blend my own Mobil 1 /Mobil (3qt/2qt) for engine. I'm a big believer in synthetics, working in the aerospace industry and many years racing and track experience.
Robert

[Gussie2000]

Eric,

I know the front pumpkin has a breather tube on the driver's side. I've never looked for one on the rear. If there is one and your's is clogged, that could cause the pressure differential.

Tom

Yes,i think the differentials got breating tube,they looks like rubber straws.

They aim upward,i don't know if they are removable so you can clean them

[psychos2]

1 tip for when you change fluids in anything that has a drain and a fill plug, ALWAYS REMOVE THE FILL PLUG FIRST. If you remove the drain plug and cannot get the fill plug loose you are stuck and cannot get the fluids back in. And I believe it is the 2.3 qts not 3.2 qts for the rear diff. shawn

[psychos2]

Just looked it up 2.3 rear and 1.5 front. shawn

[Gussie2000]

Eric,

I know the front pumpkin has a breather tube on the driver's side. I've never looked for one on the rear. If there is one and your's is clogged, that could cause the pressure differential.

Tom

Actually the rear diff do have one,it's very short though;About 10/11" long.

[Ldub]

it's very short though;About 10/11" long.

I'd be happy wit that...:naughty:

[tom4bren]

I have NO response to that!!!!

[Ldub]

I have NO response to that!!!!

LOL...It's not often I can get that response from you...:razzgray:

[etlsport]

was under the vx today and messed with the breather tube, theres a white cap on top of the piece the breather connects to.. im assuming thats normal to keep thing out? as soon as i pulled the flexible part of the hose from the piece connected to the frame there was a pressure hiss.. couldnt figure out how to get that white cap off, it felt like it was threaded but i guess not.. wonder if that cap was just stuck down or something... ill check it again tomorrow i guess

[pbkid]

so we never got a write up on this huh bart??

a lot of info on changing the diff's...but none for the transfer case...

[etlsport]

the transfer case is super easy.. there are two plugs with square holes.. a 3/8" socket wrench extension fits perfectly in them.. undo the top one first then drain from the lower one... fill with atf until it dribbles out the top one

[pbkid]

great....got all the info i need for tranny, x-case and diffs.... guess i just gotta start buying parts now and wait for a day off..

thanks ETL

[slutty22]

great....got all the info i need for tranny, x-case and diffs.... guess i just gotta start buying parts now and wait for a day off..

thanks ETL

FYI
I know there are a few post that says the trani requires 10 Qts. mine only took 5 and that was with a complete drain (cooler as well) and new filter, I have yet to recheck it but I doubt it will need 5 more qts!

[etlsport]

i was talking about the transfer case which takes like 2.5 quarts... the transmission is much more involved. if you dont think you put in enough double check your procedure. car should be running while you check and you need to cycle the gears first ..

[Gussie2000]

FYI
I know there are a few post that says the trani requires 10 Qts. mine only took 5 and that was with a complete drain (cooler as well) and new filter, I have yet to recheck it but I doubt it will need 5 more qts!

Even though you drain the trans huge amount of the old fluid remains in there, it's difficult do drain all the old fluid a 100%

[slutty22]

Even though you drain the trans huge amount of the old fluid remains in there, it's difficult do drain all the old fluid a 100%

I was hoping to get it all, I disconnected the cooler and with everythin unhooked and open I started it up and ran it through the gears hoping to pull out as much as I could, at any cost its shifting a whole lot smoother, not sure if I should attribute that to the fluid/filter or the missing bolts in the trani mount, my guess is they both helped:bwgy:

[Gussie2000]

I was hoping to get it all, I disconnected the cooler and with everythin unhooked and open I started it up and ran it through the gears hoping to pull out as much as I could, at any cost its shifting a whole lot smoother, not sure if I should attribute that to the fluid/filter or the missing bolts in the trani mount, my guess is they both helped:bwgy:

Good,With a sucking pump you may be able to get almost all the old oil outter the trans

[Gussie2000]

Yesterday i flushed & refilled my VX's differential fluids,the rear had a lil leak & the pinion seal were replaced. I did it because the VX LSD developed a kind of kicking behavior,ever time i make a full stop the differential behaved like the following car just slight tapped your bumper,thought something was going wrong with the differential assemble.

The mech checked the differential for potential damage,hopefully any was found.Said the old fluids were very clean & still with a high concentrated viscosity level.

I add the castroil full synthetic 75w-90 (black color bottle) with a bottle of LSD addditive by CRC industries which meets GM's LSD requirements called K&W,very happy with the outcome :)

Though i can share this one with guys,specially if any of you are'bout to do the same.

Have good one guys :)

[pbkid]

ok i know this has been beaten a little bit to death, and i have read this and other threads multiple times...
so i finally broke down and spent $120 at advanced auto parts today...

i just wanted to make sure that i got the right things...

front diff-
1.5 qts. of Mobil1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant 75W-90 at GL-5 quality

rear diff-
3.2 qts. of Mobil1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant 75W-90 at GL-5 quality
add 6fl oz. of LSII (limited slip axle additive concentrate) made by BG part no. 328

x-case-
2 qts of Mobil1 Fully Synthetic ATF Mercon V (for Ford, GM vehicles)

tranny-
4 qts of Mobil1 Fully Synthetic ATF Mercon V (for Ford, GM vehicles)

drain bolts- 24 MM socket

so, how did i do?? did i purchase the right stuff guys???
im not very intimidated by the F/R Diff or X-case, but the tranny does scare me a little :mbrasd:

[nfpgasmask]

Well Jack, are you going to drop the tranny pan and change the filter? If you have never done that, I personally think it is something you should do.

The diffs are super easy. The tranny is a bit of a pain if you are going to drop the pan and do a full service and swap the filter.

You have to support the tranny with a jack stand and drop the big cross member, and then you can get at the pan and drop it. Replace the gasket and the filter and clean the pan and magnet out real nice, refill, and your VX will be a happy camper.

Honestly, it is really simple, it's just messy and hot under the VX. And get one of the those graduated funnels with the lid, tube and valve attached to it from Wal*mart, add some clear tubing from home depot and then filling the tranny is very easy with a helper (one person holding the tube in the hole, another person holding the funnel and pouring the fluid) using the siphon method.

Bart

[pbkid]

Well Jack, are you going to drop the tranny pan and change the filter? If you have never done that, I personally think it is something you should do.

The diffs are super easy. The tranny is a bit of a pain if you are going to drop the pan and do a full service and swap the filter.

You have to support the tranny with a jack stand and drop the big cross member, and then you can get at the pan and drop it. Replace the gasket and the filter and clean the pan and magnet out real nice, refill, and your VX will be a happy camper.

Honestly, it is really simple, it's just messy and hot under the VX. And get one of the those graduated funnels with the lid, tube and valve attached to it from Wal*mart, add some clear tubing from home depot and then filling the tranny is very easy with a helper (one person holding the tube in the hole, another person holding the funnel and pouring the fluid) using the siphon method.

Bart

well, to be honest, i was going to just change the fluid, but i think you are right that if im going to spend the time and money i might as well spend a little extra and do it right...

i just might need a little more walking through on the tranny service...

1. i understand dropping the crossmember, and i think i understand dropping the pan (done after you drain it, right?).
2. when you drop the pan, is it the one thats kinda in front of the tranny (looks like its between the tranny and motor?)
3. and it has those bolts all the way around the phlange that connects it to the tranny, you just unbolt those and it comes off??
4. am i going to need any type of gasket?
5. do i need a pump or just a funnel with a long hose to fill it?
6. am i going to need 10 qts to do the full service?
7. did i get all the fluids right??

and lastly...what the :evil: do you do with all that damned fluid??? after changing everything im gonna have like 15 qts of old fluid laying around??
do you guys just drain fluids like these into milk jugs??

[nfpgasmask]

Jack, I'll PM you phone number. I can always assist over the phone if you get stuck. I've done mine twice now.

Yes, you basically have the process down. You just need to go to the parts store and get a filter for the VX tranny. Usually about $30-$40. The filter should come with the gasket. Take the gasket out right away, get some heavy books and flatten that sucker out under the books for a day or two. If you don't, you will have a HELLUVA time getting it to sit right on the pan. I agree, just draining and refilling is a halfie job. I think 9 quarts should do it.

The first time I did my tranny I used a pump to push the fluid up and in. It took FOREVER and I spilled A LOT of fluid allover everything. I highly recommend the funnel and siphon method. I think my funnel cost about $6 from Wal*mart and then you just need an extra length of clear tubing. That is the easiest and cleanest way to fill the tranny. And remember to reference the instructions to check the level when you fill it, the process has been posted a million times on here.

The only problem you may run into if this has never been done on your VX before is a rotten and stuck on gasket. Once you remove all the bolts, the pan should come free. If your pan has never been dropped, it will probably be stuck there with the rotted gasket. Take a 2x4 about the length of your forearm and put it up against the pan, whack the 2x4 a few times with a rubber mallet and it should come free. Then have fun scraping the old gasket off the lips of the pan and housing. Be careful when doing this, do not use a flat blade screwdriver or anything that could mar the mating surface. Clean the pan out real good and inspect the magnet for excessive metal shavings. No matter what, you will have some metal shaving or more like a metal paste attached to the magnet. Wipe all that clean.

If you have a helper, it makes things faster if you fill the pan with a quart or 2 of ATF before you lift it up and bolt it on. Otherwise, filling can take a little time.

Another tip, take your VX to the car wash and pressure clean the beejesus outta that area and over the cross member to get as much dirt and crap out ahead of time, otherwise it will be raining dirt the whole time you are under your VX.

Give yourself a full Saturday.

When you are done, make popsicles with the old fluid and pass them around to the kids in your neighborhood. :D

JK, take it all to your parts store and dump it. I know Kragen here takes oil and ATF for free.

:) Bart

[Triathlete]

HERE (http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=13856&highlight=transmission&page=2) is a little info from when I did mine. It is a pretty easy job...just consumes a bit of time. Plan on at least 4 hours. When you have the cross member dropped also check the tranny mount. Mine had pretty much come undone and was just sitting there. Easy fix...tighten a couple of bolts. Sorry the pics are gone...the host shut down! If you need them and think they will help let me know and I'll email them to you. Have fun!

[PK]

Did I ever mention that JDM's have a tranny dipstick and fill tube........

Did I .....Did I.....

:yeso::yesb::yesgray:

Have fun.

PK

[pbkid]

Did I ever mention that JDM's have a tranny dipstick and fill tube........

Did I .....Did I.....

:yeso::yesb::yesgray:

Have fun.

PK

thanks....you are sooooooo encouraging.... ;)

[etlsport]

hey jack double check the manual, i think that it recommends 70w140 for the rear diff... if you use regular gear oil (ie not mobil 1 or royal purple) you probably need to add LSD additive to it too.. for the transfer case you need a 3/8" socket wrench with a small extension bar to remove the plugs

[Bee Sting]

Changed the diff fluids on the weekend. VX is a much smoother ride now.

Went with AMSOIL 75W90 in the front and a mix of 75W90 and 80W140 in the rear (does that make 77.5W105) to give a wider temperature coverage. Also added AMSOIL's Slip Lock in the back.

Fluild out was pretty black and smelly. Had to poke the front with a piece of wire to get it flowing.

[etlsport]

installed new shocks today, noticed i have gear oil coming out of the seal between the rear diff and the drive shaft, so i went to top off the differential, make sure im not low on fluid.. taking off the filler plug released a lot of pressure, i really cant figure out why, i took the breather hose off and its clear, hooking up compressed air to it, there is some pressure build up, theres a white cap at the top of the breather, it seems to be blocking the airflow some, but not enough to build up the kind of pressure ive got there, not sure how i would test if its clogged at the differential, kind of thinking it is, i stuck a coat hanger in there and hit something pretty solid feeling.. anyone know whats supposed to be in there?

[Gussie2000]

installed new shocks today, noticed i have gear oil coming out of the seal between the rear diff and the drive shaft, so i went to top off the differential, make sure im not low on fluid.. taking off the filler plug released a lot of pressure, i really cant figure out why, i took the breather hose off and its clear, hooking up compressed air to it, there is some pressure build up, theres a white cap at the top of the breather, it seems to be blocking the airflow some, but not enough to build up the kind of pressure ive got there, not sure how i would test if its clogged at the differential, kind of thinking it is, i stuck a coat hanger in there and hit something pretty solid feeling.. anyone know whats supposed to be in there?


There's a pinion seal that due age gets busted.I had that seal replaced few months ago when i had an small leak right there eric

The pinion seal cost 'bout $ 10.00/15.00

[johnnyapollo]

I wanted to add that there are actually 2 pans in the tranny - the larger covers the filter - there's a smaller pan (adapter pan) up front that covers the tranny solenoids. Best right up I've seen was done by Joe Black:
http://www.antiquecaterpillar.org/vx/Technical/4L30E_01.asp

Call around and ask for a tranny-pan filter kit for a GM4L30E- comes with both gaskets (pan and adapter pan) plus the filter - runs right at $50 and the gaskets are shrink-wrapped to cardboard so they come flat.

-- John

[tom4bren]

Johnny,

Joe's writeup is also available in the how2 section in pdf format.

http://www.vehicross.info/modules.php?name=Content&file=viewarticle&id=20

Bee Sting,

Good catch. I had the same issue. Everyone should note that if you are draining the pumpkins & you don't get much coming out of the drain hole, it's clogged more often than not. Just poke a piece of wire or the end of a zip tie in there to move the clog out of the way.

[johnnyapollo]

Oh and another thing - apparently there are two versions of the front diff - the drain holes are different so be aware that photos and descriptions may not match.

-- John

[swift16]

I work for Dynatrac (best diff and axles on the planet). We recommend that you use anything rated GL5 or GL6. Do change it as per the factory mileage -- you will be happy you did.

[pbkid]

swift16- how about working on getting some lockers for the VX?

[circmand]

about this issue of filling the tranny with fluid after changing the filter. It seems like it would be a bitch as some here have said. However it occured to me that one of those old fashioned manual siphon hoses might be just the ticket. They have a chamber you squeeze and release and it was to siphon gas out of the tank so you have plenty of hose and could ppump tranny fluid it with it right from the container. You might want to keep from using for gas afterwards or before to prevent contamination of the fluid but otherwise probably very helpful

[tom4bren]

I don't think that oil that heavy will siphon very well. Worth a shot tho.