Quick Help!! Cv Joint Boot Bands - How...

[taylorRichie]

How do I tighten and crimp these bands without the banding tool?

I can get it tight supporting the band loop with a screwdriver while pulling with pliers but I don't know how to crimp it after.

Please help I'm all torn down and it's dark :D

Richie

[taylorRichie]

decided to just slip the boots on, then go get the tool in the morning...

Is it ok to mix different Greases together? I think I need more grease (better safe than sorry)

I have grease I use for my zerks Synthetic... Thinking of squirting some if it in...

[taylorRichie]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47288

Will that tool ratchet and crimp a CV boot band?

[Ldub]

decided to just slip the boots on, then go get the tool in the morning...

Is it ok to mix different Greases together? I think I need more grease (better safe than sorry)

I have grease I use for my zerks Synthetic... Thinking of squirting some if it in...

IIRC, CV grease has a different spec. than bearing/chassis grease. Check into it further before mixing the two.

[Ldub]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=47288

Will that tool ratchet and crimp a CV boot band?

NO...that is for banding together big heavies...like a bunk of 2x4's etc.

The tool that came with the Mec-A-Tec kit is about the size of a manual can opener.
Even being that small, it's hard to manipulate in the tighter areas.:_wrench:

[taylorRichie]

I found details on grease: http://www.mindconnection.com/library/handyman/greasecompat.htm

And i'll just see if checker has the tool designed for it, and more of the same grease :D

Said and done, I'll probably be into the repair ~3 hoursish It's really not too bad... And if these last me a year or two I'll be prepared with some mecatecs.

[LittleBeast]

My mecatech lasted one day.......

I just installed them on friday and as I was finishing up everything I noticed that the inner driver's side boot had a pin hole sized tear in it. I did not remember hitting it with a screwdriver or anything, I thought I looked it over pretty good before putting them on, oh well. Even just driving down the road slung grease all over down there with 0 miles on it. Next weekend maybe I will replace the boot that already had a tear before I drove it at all. The outer dorman is still holding strong though. Has anyone bought the factory boots? How much are they? That is what I am going to try next I think.

[taylorRichie]

I think Anita ordered some factory ones, but it took a while to get them.

The Factory ones are definitely a thicker material... Probably pretty tough to maneuver on with the steep angle (even my Dormans sucked)

Hope they hold up for a bit.

Why doesn't anyone make Kevlar CV boots?

[Ascinder]

Because you cant weave kevlar tight enough to be able to flex while holding grease:p. You can also get factory style(thick) aftermarket boots. I have some in the box at my dads house. I'll check out the brand and part number

[taylorRichie]

Yes but you could line the inside with a membrane that is then wrapped in kevlar. (I'd think).

oh well...

[tom4bren]

Richie,

I put Dormans on this weekend. So far so good. The only problem that I ran into is that I used some HD Zip Ties instead of the bands. One of the inners (Drivers side) I didn't get it tight enough and the boot slipped off of the outer race (green cup). At least I can fix it without disassembling anything.

BTW, I'm with you on the grease. The kits come with what looks like about 1/2 of the amount needed (IMHO).

BTW2, in the other CV boot thread recently, I posted a source for a boot that comes highly recommended by a CV shop.

BTW3, Advance Auto sells an OEM type boot but I don't know if it's the same quality as factory. It does come with a Limited Lifetime Warentee. They're about $10 each.

I took some pix of all 3 boots lined up (OEM, MechaTech, Dorman). I'll try to post later today.

[taylorRichie]

Cool... Keep me posted on how everything is going...

I'll be running a trail this weekend, hopefully all goes well.

Can anyone tell me why they don't use a Worm gear clamp on the boots? Seems like a much simpler solution. But I'm sure there's a reason.

[Ldub]

Cool... Keep me posted on how everything is going...

I'll be running a trail this weekend, hopefully all goes well.

Can anyone tell me why they don't use a Worm gear clamp on the boots? Seems like a much simpler solution. But I'm sure there's a reason.

The head (screw) of the clamp would wear through the boot when flexed to the small side...:_wrench:

[tom4bren]

If you look at the site I posted in the other thread & blow up the picture of the kit - it looks like the band is different than the ones we're used to. These actually have slots in the band and once tightened, a simple crushing of the buckle will engage the slot.

It looks to me that the bands can be installed TOO tightly though so be careful. When I removed the torn MechaTechs, one was torn at the band (seems like the band actually cut the boot - they were professionally installed so were much tighter than I could have done). I think I'll stick with my ziptie set up for now to see if they hold up over time.

[nfpgasmask]

Man, I just hope my boots last for another few years without breaking. But on that note, I am waiting for some solid words on what aftermarket boots work good and last long with the VX. When the time comes, I will probably have a good shop do my boot replacement, to make sure it gets done right, and stays put.

I don't want any clicking.

Bart

[tom4bren]

Gas,

I was quoted $365 per side to install the boots. They don't know of our shortcut so plan on removing the entire half shaft assembly before even starting the boot removal.

Tom

[tom4bren]

Boot pix posted to my gallery.

[nfpgasmask]

Gas,

I was quoted $365 per side to install the boots. They don't know of our shortcut so plan on removing the entire half shaft assembly before even starting the boot removal.

Tom

Ouch! Maybe I will do it myself when the time comes!

Bart

[CrnCnn]

I did my own and my feelings are two thing about the job I dont like. One is trying to get the lower ball joint mount back under the lower control arm when re-assembling and two, its just plain messy.

It takes me awhile but that’s because I like to take my time and be thorough, if I rush then I always have to go back and fix what I missed.

[tom4bren]

"One is trying to get the lower ball joint mount back under the lower control arm when re-assembling"

AMEN!!!

I dorked the threads on 2 of the bolts the first time I did the job. The second time I didn't mess anything up but it still took a while. BTW - those bolts are hard to find - I ended up with 2 that have 19mm heads while all the rest are 17mm.

[taylorRichie]

"One is trying to get the lower ball joint mount back under the lower control arm when re-assembling"

AMEN!!!

I dorked the threads on 2 of the bolts the first time I did the job. The second time I didn't mess anything up but it still took a while. BTW - those bolts are hard to find - I ended up with 2 that have 19mm heads while all the rest are 17mm.

Interesting...

Did you have an extra set of hands?

I just put a floor jack as far out as I could on the lower control arm. Then Jacked it up as high as I could, Rotated the ball joint and the bracket slipped right by on the side toward the rear of the vehicle. Then I had my nephew hold the full brake assembly while I manipulated the lower bracket into place. It kind of found it's home on it's own while being wiggled around.

Got two bolts through and started, then the rest was cake... but those bolts are simply too long when it's time to crank on the nuts. Takes forever.

[taylorRichie]

Because you cant weave kevlar tight enough to be able to flex while holding grease:p. You can also get factory style(thick) aftermarket boots. I have some in the box at my dads house. I'll check out the brand and part number

Been thinking about this some more... I wonder if a heavy duty fabric (Carbon Kevlar etc.) with a Gore-Tex membrane would work... Create something like a shift boot, and tape the seams...

Wonder if I can get gore to head up this project ;)

[Ascinder]

I do remember them making a kevlar boot protector cover, but it was more to prevent it being externally punctured, unlike our "accelerated fatigue" problem.

[tom4bren]

"Did you have an extra set of hands?"

Nope - my foul language when things don't go right scares everyone away for miles & miles.:)

"I just put a floor jack as far out as I could on the lower control arm. Then Jacked it up as high as I could, Rotated the ball joint and the bracket slipped right by on the side toward the rear of the vehicle."

Tried that - it worked much better in theory than it did in practice. What worked for me was: Push, Squeeze, Cuss, Twist ... repeat 20 times. Several large punches helps a lot to line up the holes (don't hammer the bolts in place or try to thread them in - that's how you dork the threads).

[taylorRichie]

I know all about dorking threads ;)

I recommend knocking on a neighbors door next time :D

I got the lower balljoint below the control arm by myself, but spent about 5 minutes trying to get the bolts lined up and decided I'd wait for help.

Oh and I remember why it was so easy for me, duh... I disconnected the outer tie rod end. (that's how I dorked the threads). It takes just a minute to drop the tie rod, probably less time than monkeying with the assembly.

[tom4bren]

I'll keep that in mind - with my luck, I'll be doing it again same time next year.