brake time again

[pbkid]

ok, so i had my oil changed the other day because i dont have access to a place to do it myself...

anyhow, they told me that my brakes only had about 25% left...so now im gonna start collecting parts so once i get everything i can get it done...

i dont have the money to buy everything at once so im gonna collect as i go...

ok, so I DID search for information and i found some, but not everything i was looking for...if i missed a good thread go ahead and point me that way...

ok, now the brakes...everyone has seemed to like the R1 rotors and stock pads so im probably gonna go that route...

also, i know everyone suggests getting the indy4x steel brake lines, which i will get and install....

i know im gonna need to get high temp grease to make sure everything is lubed...

"Don't forget to lubricate the 2 quide pins when you reattach the calipers - if those pins gum up, the caliper will not float back and forth and typically wears out one of the pads well before the other.
Use caliper grease than can withstand the high temp." (tone)
i got that pointer....

i know people have mentioned doing something with the bearings but im not sure what needs to be done there, replacement or just greasing????

what else am i missing guys???
also, is there a step by step on doing the brake job??? (i have done multiple brake jobs on my integra, and i have also done brake jobs on tacoma's so im not completely dumb i just wanted to know if there is anything special i should know??)

also, should i go ahead and do CV joints while i have everything apart??? to avoid having to do this all over again....(i think my CV's are in good shape but im just thinking preventative maintence)

thanks in advance guys

[tom4bren]

CVs are supposed to last the life of the vehicle without maintenance. So if your boots are not cracked or split, I wouldn't crack them open.

[crager34]

Are you sure the rotors need replaced? When I did my fronts, I bought the pads from Checker auto and they turned my rotors for free and they had plenty of room. Also, I re-packed my wheel bearings while I was in there.

Time for the rears though.

[nfpgasmask]

Jack,

As for the bearings, you can just get them repacked with grease if you haven't done that service before. I don' think the bearings need to be replaced unless you have excessive play up there and have never done a repack. I know there is a thread somewhere that points to another Isuzu site with a step-by-step for the bearing repack.

R1 Concepts rotors and stock pads are working good for me, but if your stock rotors are not warped or grooved, you may consider keeping them. A brake shop might just resurface them if they are still good.

I am going to leave my CV boots alone until I have to replace them. I agree that they should just be left alone unless there is a problem.

I am thinking about the brake line upgrade as well, next time I do my brakes.

Bart

[Ldub]

Examine your bearings when you clean them, if there is a brownish/black stripe on the rollers, this indicates scorching & the bearing should be replaced.
Last time I did mine, I had one inner scorched.
A quick trip to auto zone or advanced auto, checkers, etc. will get you a new one...:thumbup:
Pounding out the race(pin or tapered punch, look from the back side for the notches) & replacing it with the new one that comes with the bearing, is the hardest part...:_wrench:

[tom4bren]

"I know there is a thread somewhere that points to another Isuzu site with a step-by-step for the bearing repack."

I thought Kenny did a write up.

Dub - race you to find it:)

[pbkid]

cool, thanks guys...i didnt look at the rotors yet but i definately will...

if im gonna be taking out the bearings to repack and clean them why not just replace them at that time?? (if its cheap-ish)....

and would you guys suggest doing the brake lines just to get some better response while i have everything taken apart??

[tom4bren]

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=11324

I gotta give etlsport partial credit. I only read through 3 threads till I found where he had posted the URL.

There's a lot more info than just Kenny's write up tho. Use the search function on 'bearing repack'.

Tom

[nfpgasmask]

"I know there is a thread somewhere that points to another Isuzu site with a step-by-step for the bearing repack."

I thought Kenny did a write up.

You're right, I think Kenny did do a nice write up, I forgot about that one. I was thinking of the one on PlanetIsuzu I think...

EDIT: This one: http://www.planetisuzoo.com/articles.htm/56

Bart

[tom4bren]

"if im gonna be taking out the bearings to repack and clean them why not just replace them at that time?? (if its cheap-ish)...."

Define cheap-ish. I wouldn't classify rotors in the cheap-ish bin myself but it's your call. I personally wouldn't replace them until needed - but that's just me. The trade off is that you'll be doing 80% of the work needed to replace the rotors during the bearing repack. The only thing you won't be doing is pressing out the races.

Bart, I saw that link but I was on a mission for Kenny's. I may have already done a pdf of his write up. I'll see about getting it put into the How2 section. I'll have a look at this one to see if it's worth having both.

[Chopper]

I've never repacked a bearing in my life. About every 35k or so, I toss 'em and put in new ones. They don't cost that much, and I'm incredibly anal about my machines. (Well.....most of them )

[pbkid]

"if im gonna be taking out the bearings to repack and clean them why not just replace them at that time?? (if its cheap-ish)...."

Define cheap-ish. I wouldn't classify rotors in the cheap-ish bin myself but it's your call. I personally wouldn't replace them until needed - but that's just me. The trade off is that you'll be doing 80% of the work needed to replace the rotors during the bearing repack. The only thing you won't be doing is pressing out the races.

Bart, I saw that link but I was on a mission for Kenny's. I may have already done a pdf of his write up. I'll see about getting it put into the How2 section. I'll have a look at this one to see if it's worth having both.

i meant the bearings, not the rotors..ill keep the rotors if they are in good condition....
thanks again guys....

ya those write ups are gonna be helpful

[psychos2]

If you have high miles you may want to think about replacing the boots on the cv axles. I know the axles are supposed to last a long time ,but the boots are rubber and do not. I know people are saying leave them alone, but will you be upset if in 3000 miles one of your boots comes apart and you have to get all greasy again? If they are starting to crack at the seams I would replace them. shawn

[VehiGAZ]

My VX is getting this treatment right now - my rotors are warped after getting turned down once (rewarping happens very quickly once you turn down the OEM rotors once, so I think it's better to replace them). I got Duralast aftermarket rotors, OEM pads, and SS brake lines. I'm having them do a full brake fluid flush and replacement - 9 years of absorbing moisture is tooooo long!

My mechanic asked me to get new hub seals for the repacking part of the job, but that was all that was needed parts-wise (until the found the draggign LF caliper!) If you are just replacing pads, don't bother repacking; if you are replacing the front rotors, you have to repack the bearings in the process, since you have to disassemble the hub to replace the rotor. It's a big job requiring lots of time and tools.

(Thanks to Merlin for overnight shipping a new LF caliper to my now-former Isuzu dealer!)

Good luck!

[nfpgasmask]

That's right, I forgot, you need to buy new seals for the bearing re-pack.

Bart

[Jolly Roger VX'er]

That's right, I forgot, you need to buy new seals for the bearing re-pack.

Bart

When I did mine I had new seals on hand & I used them. But, I kept the old ones as when I "gently" used a seal puller (Advance Auto) they came out in what looked like pristine, reusable condition. I think in a pinch if their not damaged you could "in theory" re-use them.

my $.02

[VehiGAZ]

Yes, you can re-use them if they didn't get chewed up.

[circmand]

I did search. I am told I am at 20-25%. I need all new rotors they are too thin to turn. They also said the fronts are press on rotors and need a whole breakdown to do.(what this means I do not know) I also saw a thread that said rotos can be resurfaced. What is this and how is it done or who do I use? Also I see plenty of rotors on ebay what is the deal any good or to stay away from? Feel free to add anything I may not have asked yet.

[nfpgasmask]

I did search. I am told I am at 20-25%. I need all new rotors they are too thin to turn. They also said the fronts are press on rotors and need a whole breakdown to do.(what this means I do not know) I also saw a thread that said rotos can be resurfaced. What is this and how is it done or who do I use? Also I see plenty of rotors on ebay what is the deal any good or to stay away from? Feel free to add anything I may not have asked yet.

If I was you I would go ahead and buy some aftermarket rotors. The thing to be sure about though is to get stock Isuzu pads. I have R1Concepts rotors and stock pads and all is good. However, I originally put the R1Concepts rotors on with R1Concepts pads and my brake performance was TERRIBLE (scary in fact :eek:).

I think as long as you stick with stock pads and decent quality aftermarket rotors will be fine.

Bart

[circmand]

semi metalic or ceramic?

[nfpgasmask]

semi metalic or ceramic?

Honestly, I don't know. The better pads are Isuzu pads from Merlin. From what I understand it is not what they are made of, but the thickness of the pad. But then again, I don't really know. It could be the material as well...

Bart

[circmand]

I always forget about Merlin. I have bnought from him before and had a great price and service but everytime I need something elseI forget til someone reminds me. Thanks