CarSystem Refinish Restorer

[VX KAT]

For those that have used CarSystem Refinish Restorer....does it seem to make more dirt cling to the cladding?

I've tried Back to Black and Stoner Trim Shine....but both seem to make dirt (from from fabulous dirt road I live on) REALLY cling to it...literally covers it solid usually from doors rearward.

Since, the dirt road ain't goin' anywhere, I've just got to find a product that doesn't make it cling like crazy. Any suggestions?http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN1567.jpg

[Thmstec]

Dirt does NOT cling :)

Warning though, apply it very well the first time. And DO NOT apply in 90 degree weather. Mine is beginning to need a redo on a couple bits I didn't do as well.

[VehiGAZ]

Ditto... no dirt clinging at all.

Keep in mind, it's not a "dressing" for the plastic - it's closer to a clear-coat paint than anything else. It does not seem to wear off at any noticable rate.

[VX KAT]

Thanks so much for confirming that, I think that's my next purchase. I did think it was kind of a sealer not a dressing that would be tacky or sticky at all, but I wasn't sure.

Does it tend to darken the cladding at all? :?:

[rowhard]

Well, I just got my supply of this stuff today, we'll see if its all that is cracked up to be.

Well, I just unpacked it. It tells me in 6 languages what it does. It tells me in 7 languages about safety, but I don't have a bloody clue on how to use it. Where are the instructions??

[Riff Raff]

ROWHARD--- For the official manufacturer's instructions, do a "search" for: ALTERNATIVE GATORBACK ,then specifically look at thread posting #30.

I don't know how to add a direct link to that specific thread, but the above "search" route will immediately get you there. Aim High!!!

[VX KAT]

Here's the link to the .pdf file.
http://www.carsystem.ca/shared_files/catalog/fichiers/RefinishRestorer_gb.pdf

[VX KAT]

Think a foam type paint brush would work OK for application?

[pbkid]

ROWHARD--- For the official manufacturer's instructions, do a "search" for: ALTERNATIVE GATORBACK ,then specifically look at thread posting #30.

I don't know how to add a direct link to that specific thread, but the above "search" route will immediately get you there. Aim High!!!

when you are on the page that you want to move....copy the URL at the top of your browser...then paste into the thread ;)

[rowhard]

Here's the link to the .pdf file.
http://www.carsystem.ca/shared_files/catalog/fichiers/RefinishRestorer_gb.pdf

Thanks, I saw that, but the prep seemed vague. Do I need to try and get all of the other crap off that I have tried.

[VehiGAZ]

Think a foam type paint brush would work OK for application?

Um, I don't think so from my experience, but I can't say for sure. I used a terrycloth rag which worked pretty well. I bristle-type paint brush would probably work well.

[VehiGAZ]

Do I need to try and get all of the other crap off that I have tried.

I would try to get any other products off if they are freshly applied.

[TheGanzman]

I'm gonna buy some of this stuff too, even though my cladding still looks like new. My advice for "prepping" is BrakeKleen (in the red can) - it will remove EVERYTHING that is on there, and leave ZERO residual - you'll have a perfect palette for this product, IMHO...

[MSHardeman]

Wouldn't BrakeKleen be a little too harsh for the cladding? If that is the stuff that is made to clean gunk off of engine blocks it may melt the cladding. I would try it on a hidden area first to make sure it doesn't do any damage.

[TheGanzman]

Wouldn't BrakeKleen be a little too harsh for the cladding? If that is the stuff that is made to clean gunk off of engine blocks it may melt the cladding. I would try it on a hidden area first to make sure it doesn't do any damage.

Categorically NOT the same thing! It's primarily designed to clean off drum/disc brake surfaces and brake parts prior to reassembly; as such, it's designed to leave NO chemical residue whatsoever! While it is invasive on SOME plastics, I don't think there would be a problem on the cladding - of course, try it in an inconspicuous place first...

[VX KAT]

What about using Windex to prep it? I recall somebody has been using Windex on the cladding to make it look good. So it apparently doesn't dry it out too bad...maybe it would be a pretty good prep solution to get off most of the "oily" type products we've put on it (Back to Black, etc...) :?:

[VehiGAZ]

If you have used a silicon-based product in the last year, I would try to clean it off first. Any wild organic solvent will work for that.

The "oily products" come off by themselves (which is their problem, of course). If you put any of them on recently, then maybe it would be worth removing prior to refinishing. Brakekleen sounds like it would be way too harsh!

Otherwise, just wash normally & dry thoroughly. Be mindful of the Torx-head cladding screws - use compressed air to get the water out of them. Water seemed to make the product go on somewhat unevenly.

[rowhard]

Any wild organic solvent will work for that.T

We have a lot of blueberry patches around here, is that organic enough:confused: I suppose if I lived in Florida I could use oranges:bwgr::bgwp:

If all else fails, how about some TSP soap:_thinking

[VehiGAZ]

We have a lot of blueberry patches around here, is that organic enough

LOL!!! Make that a MILD organic solvent...

[Riff Raff]

What about using Windex to prep it? I recall somebody has been using Windex on the cladding to make it look good. So it apparently doesn't dry it out too bad...maybe it would be a pretty good prep solution to get off most of the "oily" type products we've put on it (Back to Black, etc...) :?:

ROWHARD--- I would try the WINDEX idea first on a sample cladding location, as it is an extremely "mild" cleaner and won't harm anything. If that doesn't work well; then upgrade to 409 Cleaner, as 409 is a bit more powerful than WINDEX. It is always wiser to begin with a mild type cleaner, and then gradually upgrade to a stronger cleaner as required to accomplish the mission. SIMPLE GREEN; might be an option, too. AIM HIGH!!!

[rowhard]

Now, I do hope this stuff last as long as some of you have said cause it don't look half bad.:gring:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/IMG_00037.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13107)

[VXNIT]

Seems like application is swirly and uneven, does it come off? Definately looks better than grey washed out side but looks like you have put nothing on bad cladding for long time. I use Back to Black and it does collect dust somewhat but nothing seems to be perfect for the cladding IMO. Definaely looks better than nothing on the cladding.

[rowhard]

Seems like application is swirly and uneven, does it come off? Definately looks better than grey washed out side but looks like you have put nothing on bad cladding for long time. I use Back to Black and it does collect dust somewhat but nothing seems to be perfect for the cladding IMO. Definaely looks better than nothing on the cladding.

no, actually I did it everytime I washed it. with different products. the undone cladding looks that way caused I used a strong chemical cleaned to get all the old product off of it.

[Phantom]

The first coat just goes on that way. a second (or third) coat will coat over any swirls or streaks. You want a lint free cloth to put this on, and thin multiple coats is the way to go. Try to put it on with as uniform a wipe as you can, dont change direction or do swirls. I went a section of cladding at a time and waited the 10 mins and wiped off then put on additional coats until it looked "right" then moved on to the next section. A little goes a loong way. I have had it on mine for almost seven months and it still shines up nicely. Invest in a few hours putting this on and do it right, and you'll just need to treat your cladding once or twice a year (depending on weather conditions/how hard you ride her) instead of every other month like most of the other stuff (back to black, tire shine, clear coat wax, ICE)

[rowhard]

Phantom, did you wax once you got it right to get a high sheen look? Step seven says you can

[Riff Raff]

ROWHARD--- Nice pic's. I like the "half-n-half" look to show us "before-n-after".

Incidentally, did the Body Shop do a good job on your VX from the Winter incident??? Did you ever get your antenna "buzzing" sound corrected??? AIM HIGH!!!

[rowhard]

ROWHARD--- Nice pic's. I like the "half-n-half" look to show us "before-n-after".

Incidentally, did the Body Shop do a good job on your VX from the Winter incident??? Did you ever get your antenna "buzzing" sound corrected??? AIM HIGH!!!

Yea, I thought it would help anyone that is sitting on the fence that doesn't want to spend the money. Seems like a good product.

No, and no. It needs to go back and have the hood resprayed, I still have the buzz from what ever them did, they also fried the rear dome light I had installed and a 18 work day job turned into 25. Don't think I will go back or recommend them.

[Anita]

Busted :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

[rowhard]

Busted :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:


How that isn't for me

[rowhard]

Busted :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

Hope that isn't for me

[VehiGAZ]

No, for a spammer who is no longer among us...

[twistedsymphony]

back on topic... I put this stuff on my VX last fall... and the cladding still looks great even after driving it daily through the hard New England Winter and dozens of washes :D

it's hard to say if it's faded at all... but let me at least say that it doesn't even need to be freshened up or anything...

FWIW I pained it on... basically took a horsehair brush and a small hand held paint container and pained the cladding with it, after 15 minutes I wiped it all off with a shop rag.

it didn't damage the paint or any of the bumper lights

one bad thing is that it pooled up a little bit in a couple of the bolt holes, I think I didn't wipe it out as well as I could have and there are 2 bolts that have a 1/2" drip streak below them (which has also lasted the winter and is still visible today) but the rest of them came out a-ok... so just make sure you wipe it off well.


everyone thinks my VX is a brand new car... they're shocked when I tell them it's 10 years old and has 120 thousand miles on it :bwgy:

[VX KAT]

I put the Restore/Refinish by CARSYSTEM on all my cladding, it's AMAZING STUFF! Cladding has a bit of a satin finish and a touch darker.

PROCESS:
~I Windexed all the cladding first to get ANY remaining, anything off. I'd let my cladding go naked for a full 2 months now, in preparation for this R/R stuff, so it was pretty dried out.
~Then rubbed down with plain water on lint-free microfiber cloth.
~I used painter's tape to tape off all painted areas adjacent to cladding.
~I poured some of the R/R into a small metal tin can.
~WEAR GLOVES ! Do in very well ventilated area! Strong stuff! I did it in garage with door open.
~I dipped part of a folded microfiber cloth (80/20%) that was lint-free into the R/R liquid. Shook off excess dripping liquid.
~Applied it to cladding in horizontal strokes, as evenly as possible.
~I discovered by doing it with a cloth instead of a paintbrush of any kind, you don't get any excess liquid pooling in the cladding screws, and no running of the liquid anywhere.
~You'll want to get this stuff on and spread evenly. The directions say to wait 10 minutes then rub off excess with another clean lint-free cloth. When I first tried to do so, I found the surface was pretty tacky and the cloth just kind of stuck to it and disrupted the smooth finish and made marks. So, I quickly realized, by applying it with the cloth, there really is NO EXCESS to remove.
~Reapplied a 2nd coat to areas I smudged up with the dry cloth.
~Did all remaining cladding panels.
~Applied to hood insert. This was the hardest part to apply in even strokes, just 'cause it's awkward...but you taller folks will have no problem.
~When back door was open to get access to all parts of rear cladding, I decided this stuff just might be good for some INTERIOR areas too.
~So I applied it to rear door interior panel and it looked great!
~My rear door threshold area is quite scuffed, so I applied it heavily there too. Worked great.
~Also applied several coats to the door thresholds/sill areas.
~Let it dry overnight in garage.
~Entire garage still had pretty strong fumes in am.
~Applied second coat next day.
~Also did interior door panels, just one coat.
~Think I'm going to do the interior from front seats rearward.
~It looks fantastic. Nice satin finish, not too shiny. Makes it look like brand new.

TIPS:
**Because this stuff gets pretty sticky/tacky as it's drying, EVERY little airborne particle will stick to it before it's dry. So expect a few hairs, specs etc...I have a few. Keep cotton towels AWAY from area, the little lint balls that shed from them kept getting stuck in the stuff.

**A little goes a LONG LONG way, as everyone else has said! It's a one liter can, which is just a hair over one quart (33.82 oz). After applying two coats all the way around, and a few interior panels. I MAY have used about 5 oz.

**I don't know if the heat will affect the stuff on the hood insert over time. I didn't see any warning not to do it there.

**I'm letting it sit with open windows to air it out.

It sure was $52 bucks well spent!

[Chopper]

I've been wearing mine for 8 months now. I put on 3 or 4 coats, but it looks as good as when it first went on...great product! Now....what do I do with the $250.00 worth of Gator coating I'd bought? hahahahaha

[rowhard]

I've been wearing mine for 8 months now. I put on 3 or 4 coats, but it looks as good as when it first went on...great product! Now....what do I do with the $250.00 worth of Gator coating I'd bought? hahahahaha

how much you want to sell it for? I am going to take a medium followed by a fine scotch brite pads to remove all of the blemishes, cowboy pinstrips, what have you then refinish it. It's either the Gatorback or paint it with cladding paint, little more involved, but will be good when done.

[Gussie2000]

I put the Restore/Refinish by CARSYSTEM on all my cladding, it's AMAZING STUFF! Cladding has a bit of a satin finish and a touch darker.

PROCESS:
~I Windexed all the cladding first to get ANY remaining, anything off. I'd let my cladding go naked for a full 2 months now, in preparation for this R/R stuff, so it was pretty dried out.
~Then rubbed down with plain water on lint-free microfiber cloth.
~I used painter's tape to tape off all painted areas adjacent to cladding.
~I poured some of the R/R into a small metal tin can.
~WEAR GLOVES ! Do in very well ventilated area! Strong stuff! I did it in garage with door open.
~I dipped part of a folded microfiber cloth (80/20%) that was lint-free into the R/R liquid. Shook off excess dripping liquid.
~Applied it to cladding in horizontal strokes, as evenly as possible.
~I discovered by doing it with a cloth instead of a paintbrush of any kind, you don't get any excess liquid pooling in the cladding screws, and no running of the liquid anywhere.
~You'll want to get this stuff on and spread evenly. The directions say to wait 10 minutes then rub off excess with another clean lint-free cloth. When I first tried to do so, I found the surface was pretty tacky and the cloth just kind of stuck to it and disrupted the smooth finish and made marks. So, I quickly realized, by applying it with the cloth, there really is NO EXCESS to remove.
~Reapplied a 2nd coat to areas I smudged up with the dry cloth.
~Did all remaining cladding panels.
~Applied to hood insert. This was the hardest part to apply in even strokes, just 'cause it's awkward...but you taller folks will have no problem.
~When back door was open to get access to all parts of rear cladding, I decided this stuff just might be good for some INTERIOR areas too.
~So I applied it to rear door interior panel and it looked great!
~My rear door threshold area is quite scuffed, so I applied it heavily there too. Worked great.
~Also applied several coats to the door thresholds/sill areas.
~Let it dry overnight in garage.
~Entire garage still had pretty strong fumes in am.
~Applied second coat next day.
~Also did interior door panels, just one coat.
~Think I'm going to do the interior from front seats rearward.
~It looks fantastic. Nice satin finish, not too shiny. Makes it look like brand new.

TIPS:
**Because this stuff gets pretty sticky/tacky as it's drying, EVERY little airborne particle will stick to it before it's dry. So expect a few hairs, specs etc...I have a few. Keep cotton towels AWAY from area, the little lint balls that shed from them kept getting stuck in the stuff.

**A little goes a LONG LONG way, as everyone else has said! It's a one liter can, which is just a hair over one quart (33.82 oz). After applying two coats all the way around, and a few interior panels. I MAY have used about 5 oz.

**I don't know if the heat will affect the stuff on the hood insert over time. I didn't see any warning not to do it there.

**I'm letting it sit with open windows to air it out.

It sure was $52 bucks well spent!


Hey sue can you tell me where did you bought the kit ?

I'm interested doing the same application with my cladding.

I've been using this black out silicone formula since i bought my horse.

It takes me around 10 minutes to apply the silicone,thereafter i use a clean towel just to removed any accumulated dust & pollen to keep shiny :o

[VX KAT]

Hey sue can you tell me where did you bought the kit ?

I'm interested doing the same application with my cladding.


Here ya go Gussie!
http://yhst-13811118617756.stores.yahoo.net/carere1l.html

I think this is the only place any of us have found to buy this stuff. If I could find a place to get a secure metal canister that wouldn't leak I'd be able to sell you half of mine. Like I said I used maybe 5 oz of the 33+ oz in can. I'm going to do some of Dave's trim on the FJ, but still I'll NEVER use all this stuff. This can came with a seal inside the top (like the kind on milk cartons now with the pull tab ring). Want me to look into seeing if I can find an appropriate type of can to ship it in?

[Petos]

Hi, folks, I applied R/R on my VX last week-end and made a bad mistake... applied with a brush, and decided to take a break before wiping off the excess... unfortunately, a football game was on tv and l lost control of the time... :( when I came back, it turned out R/R already dried up and it was impossible to wipe it off... and now I have ugly streaks all over my plastic, which also collected some dust and do look awful... :(
any suggestions on how to deal with this will be very much appreciated!

[Ldub]

Hi, folks, I applied R/R on my VX last week-end and made a bad mistake... applied with a brush, and decided to take a break before wiping off the excess... unfortunately, a football game was on tv and l lost control of the time... :( when I came back, it turned out R/R already dried up and it was impossible to wipe it off... and now I have ugly streaks all over my plastic, which also collected some dust and do look awful... :(
any suggestions on how to deal with this will be very much appreciated!

In an area that is least noticable, try re-applying a fresh coat with a sponge or wax applicator.
You might get lucky, & find that the restorer, in liquid form, MAY dissolve the dried stuff & even out the appearance...:luck:
I have no experience with this stuff, so it's a WAG on my part...:_confused

[Riff Raff]

PETOS--- Refinish Restorer turns into a varnish-like hard coating very simular to varnished wood furniture if not buffed-off within 10 minutes (per instructions) after application.

Excess build-up can be removed with a "terpintine substitute" per the manufacturer's instructions. Basically, use paint thinner on a rag and lots and lots of elbow grease to get it off. Be sure and wear a face mask or enjoy getting high off the paint thinner fumes.

For the official manufacturer's instructions, please do a "search" for specific thread entitled: "Alternative To Gatorback - Faded Cladding Solutions"

Once at the thread, then scroll-down and look at Posting #30

In addition, a printable "PDF" file is also available by clicking on the "link" in Posting #30

[vt_maverick]

Excess build-up can be removed with a "terpintine substitute" per the manufacturer's instructions. Basically, use paint thinner on a rag and lots and lots of elbow grease to get it off. Be sure and wear a face mask or enjoy getting high off the paint thinner fumes.


Yikes! I don't know if I would try that with the cladding still on the vehicle... can't imagine what paint thinner would do to the paint if you slipped. :eek:

[Grif]

Hi, folks, I applied R/R on my VX last week-end and made a bad mistake... applied with a brush, and decided to take a break before wiping off the excess... unfortunately, a football game was on tv and l lost control of the time... :( when I came back, it turned out R/R already dried up and it was impossible to wipe it off... and now I have ugly streaks all over my plastic, which also collected some dust and do look awful... :(
any suggestions on how to deal with this will be very much appreciated!

I would try a heavy coat to loosen up the existing application, let sit 5 mins MAXIMUM, and wipe off the excess with a microfiber cloth. I used the kind of microfiber cloths designed for cleaning windows and camera lenses. Not the fuzzy kind, use the with a real smooth very tight weave, almost like satin. You will ruin your expensive cloth, but additional lint sticking to the cladding will not be an issue. Hopefully it will take off the accumulated dust too. After your heavy coat to try to work out the errant dust etc... try a couple more VERY light coats one coat later that night, and one the next day to completely work out he swirls and streaks. I'm not an expert with this stuff, but have used it enough to get a feel for its qualities.

[Petos]

Cheers, guys... I will give it a shot (apply another coat and whipe it off hoping that it will loosen up the existing excess), and post on the result.. thanks again :thumbup:
Petos

[Riff Raff]

PETOS--- Any results yet on getting the varnish-like goo off the cladding???

[Chopper]

Pressure washer will blow it off. Turps will clean it up fully. The power wand at a carwash blew some off an Avalanche I did for a customer...Try the PW

[Gussie2000]

I was googling at few websites & found this product which i assume some of you folks may have aknowledge of.

The product is named "Wurth stone guard black aereosol" offered by properautocare.com which offers another option to solve the fading issues our toys suffers from weather.

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/classic-motoring_2072_48597565

[Petos]

PETOS--- Any results yet on getting the varnish-like goo off the cladding???

Sorry, fellows, forgot to post a reply... well, I went with the suggested route of reapplying RR and then rubbing hard trying to get rid of the earlier stuff... well, I had limited success, I would say, looks better now, I guess the good old Russian winter will help to make the goo go off :)
also, I suspect that the previous owner actually painted the cladding (really hard to see but i think he did do that), so application of RR maybe was not a good idea in the first place.. maybe it is the reason why it did not work well when I applied it the fist time...

[BlackVXer99]

Just put the order in for some RR. Used back to black a few weeks ago and it looked great for about 5 days. then i drove thru one of those midwestern hurricanes and now it looks worse than before :( I wasnt expecting anything speccial for 7 bucks though. Hope this does the trick:thumbup:

[VX KAT]

Oh it will do the trick, it's fantastic. It's a coating not a treatment, that's for sure.

I just noticed this week (after 4 months) that I had a few small areas where the R/R appears to be kind of scratched off (from brush or branch maybe?), so I'd recommend putting a heavier 2nd coat and maybe a 3rd coat on. It may be because I used a microfiber rag to apply it with, as I didn't have ANY residual to wipe off as instructions described.

I'm going to try to do the entire cladding again soon. There's PLENTY left in the can to do it over.

[technocoy]

So, I finally got around to the RR.

It's amazing how good it looks. If it holds up as long as chopper and everyone is saying it's worth the few hours to simply not have to screw with it every few weeks.

I'm extremely excited to say the least. The cladding it the one thing that just keeps our babies from not looking as amazing as any new car on the road. with that solved in some part we'll always be rocking.

I went basically the same route as Kat and it seemed to work pretty well. I used a heavier cloth that held a good bit of the liquid so it went on pretty thick. I did an initial coat that had swirls/faded streaks etc. I then went back with a soaked cloth and just wiped VERY evenly all the way around two more times. I was very careful to avoid leaving excess behind to glob.

So far it's amazing. I still need on more day to do the tiny detailing and get to the roof rack and mirrors a bit better. My hood insert was in BAD shape and just the one coat I got on today looks a million times better. I hope to do another one or two on that. If it fades again though I"m on the verge of just having it painted.

I need to go back and do the jams and rear door surrounding areas as well.

So in total I did 3 medium coats on the cladding. took me maybe and hour and a half to do it timed right.

I think that in a few weeks I'll wash her and may do one more good coat all around for good measure.

I just can't believe how good she looks. Now I can put in my new headlights and find some door seals, etc. I also think my windows are starting to stick, so may be doing that fix soon as well.

Wonder what the door and window rubber runs for a complete set?

Anyway, thanks to all those who went ahead and risked doing this treatment. I'm VERY excited to see how it holds up.

- technocoy

[VX KAT]

I ended up putting on too thin of a coat the first time last June because I used a soaked rag, and since then, the front bumper has had some slight flaking off I believe from wind and abrasion.

So I hit it yesterday cuz it hit 68 degrees, the min. for working with this stuff. I used a foam brush which worked much better and it looks great. I actually applied it generously, then brushed and brushed to keep it from slowly dripping. After about 7-8 mins it gets thicker and it stops dripping and the brush strokes disappear for a nice even, satin finish. Doesn't really darken the cladding (unfortunately) or cover up any discolorations but it sure makes it look brand new otherwise.

This hard coating will last for years now I believe....and there's still at least 8 or 9 applications remaining in the can. :thumbup:

[vt_maverick]

...Doesn't really darken the cladding (unfortunately) or cover up any discolorations but it sure makes it look brand new otherwise...

The more I read on this stuff the more I'm inclined to think its only advantage is that you don't have to apply it very often. My cladding was terribly faded last fall before I did my first coat of Back to Black, and in one detail it was tremendously darker. A few months ago I accidentally stained a large section of the cladding below the gas cap, but the next coat of B2B made it completely disappear. Even when I neglected the B2B for a couple of months, the stain still never came back.

In my mind B2B is simply a better product, IF you can tolerate applying it every 2-4 weeks.

[VX KAT]

The more I read on this stuff the more I'm inclined to think its only advantage is that you don't have to apply it very often. My cladding was terribly faded last fall before I did my first coat of Back to Black, and in one detail it was tremendously darker. A few months ago I accidentally stained a large section of the cladding below the gas cap, but the next coat of B2B made it completely disappear. Even when I neglected the B2B for a couple of months, the stain still never came back.

In my mind B2B is simply a better product, IF you can tolerate applying it every 2-4 weeks.

They're really two different animals, as R/R is a permanent hard coating (that says it penetrates the plastic), not a treatment. My front had some areas that flaked off as I mentioned from abrasion from airborne stuff, but everywhere else was fine. I just didn't apply it correctly first time. I'll never have to do it again now.

Wish I'd tried the B2B on my gasoline stain last year. I can see where that kind of product could kind of dissolve the gasoline. Now mine's covered with R/R so nothing will penetrate...so my "gas tat" stays.

[don moore]

some one told be black shoe polish is the best stuff hes used for his clading.. his looks great..its one of those chev.. truck suv things

[VX KAT]

some one told be black shoe polish is the best stuff hes used for his clading.. his looks great..its one of those chev.. truck suv things

Actually, that crossed my mind...to put shoe polish on, THEN apply the R/R to seal it on...or I contemplated how I might be able to "dye" the R/R....but Dave the chemist reminded me there's probably a ton of things that could go wrong with that type of mixture....so alas, I used it as is and have very nice satiny grayish cladding...shall we start a poll on color?:p

[technocoy]

Figured I'd keep KATs thread going since there is a lot of information in here.

I've been nearly a year now with my treatment of RR and it still looks nearly like the day I applied it. The only difference (which I see as a positive) is that a bit of the shine has mellowed so it looks a little more like the natural texture of the cladding.

I'll continue to post an update here and there as the time goes by. I'm going to wash her in the next week or two, so I'll take some good photos to show.

I think the biggest issue is getting the application right and then hand washing only. Per KATs experience I'm thinking powerwashers are a BAD idea.

[samneil2000]

I've still had only a positive experience with mine as well. Late this summer I applied a second coat because the original appeared to be thinning or wearing out or something. I like it so much I used it on the cladding on my 2003 Escape and it made that ride look much "younger" too.

Sorry you didn't have as good of luck as others of us have Kat! I love RR personally :yesb:

[VXjunky]

would it (RR)..work in conjunction with a product that would first bring the cladding back to as dark as possible..then the application of RR....as i would want the cladding as dark as possible

[vt_maverick]

Believe that the cladding needs to be completely "naked" prior to RR application, otherwise it won't adhere as well. RR is supposed to both darken and protect the cladding.

[VXjunky]

pretty sure everyones stated it doesnt darken the cladding

[vt_maverick]

RR claims it does:

RR Manual (http://www.carsystem.ca/shared_files/catalog/fichiers/RefinishRestorer_gb.pdf) (see page #1 "Characteristics")

Refinish Restorer is a natural oil based product that restores the original colour and shine to almost any plastic or varnished surface.

Pics from rowhard's gallery:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_00037.JPG

[VXjunky]

thanks....

[circmand]

[QUOTE=vt_maverick;218199]RR claims it does:

RR Manual (http://www.carsystem.ca/shared_files/catalog/fichiers/RefinishRestorer_gb.pdf) (see page #1 "Characteristics")

Refinish Restorer is a natural oil based product that restores the original colour and shine to almost any plastic or varnished surface.
Pics from rowhard's gallery:



[Quote]Doesn't really darken the cladding (unfortunately) or cover up any discolorations but it sure makes it look brand new otherwise.[Quote]

From VXKat post

[vt_maverick]

I'm pretty sure Sue would tell you her cladding isn't a good benchmark. If that were the case, we'd have to conclude that it neither darkens nor adheres.

[VX KAT]

[QUOTE=vt_maverick;218199]RR claims it does:

RR Manual (http://www.carsystem.ca/shared_files/catalog/fichiers/RefinishRestorer_gb.pdf) (see page #1 "Characteristics")

Refinish Restorer is a natural oil based product that restores the original colour and shine to almost any plastic or varnished surface.
Pics from rowhard's gallery:



[Quote]Doesn't really darken the cladding (unfortunately) or cover up any discolorations but it sure makes it look brand new otherwise.[Quote]

From VXKat post

I "think" the difference in those two statements are due to:
1) Rowhard had done more extensive and proper prep work on it, and it looks pretty "chalky" in the pic. After his prep, his is actually lighter than my "normal" color.

2) Mine "seems" to be a lighter hue of gray to start with, ( oh my, we've beat this one to death haven't we gang?)....it darkened it a tad, just like anything "moist/oiled" appears a bit darker....just not by very much, IMO.

[technocoy]

My cladding was pretty faded and required contant Mother's BTB applications.

I would say it restores your cladding to the same darkness as new. The key is going very little bits at a time and letting it "soak" into the cladding. It took me nearly 2 hours to put mine on I went so slowly and put two coats. The first coat I went around piece by piece with a saturated rag and really rubbed it in.

I also washed mine VERY thoroughly before hand and took windex to some of the parts of cladding where I new that things like armor-all or eagle products had slung from my tires.

I THINK the consensus about KATs (correct me if I'm wrong KAT) was that she either had some type of application before she owned it that was blocking the RR from penetrating the ABS very well or there was some type of residue she couldn't get completely off in her initial prep.

KAT also had the unfortunate experience of being the first to find out that if it chips at all, power washing is a bad, bad thing.

[VX KAT]

My cladding was pretty faded and required contant Mother's BTB applications.

I would say it restores your cladding to the same darkness as new. The key is going very little bits at a time and letting it "soak" into the cladding. It took me nearly 2 hours to put mine on I went so slowly and put two coats. The first coat I went around piece by piece with a saturated rag and really rubbed it in.

I also washed mine VERY thoroughly before hand and took windex to some of the parts of cladding where I new that things like armor-all or eagle products had slung from my tires.

I THINK the consensus about KATs (correct me if I'm wrong KAT) was that she either had some type of application before she owned it that was blocking the RR from penetrating the ABS very well or there was some type of residue she couldn't get completely off in her initial prep.

I agree techno.
I'd let it go at least 3 months with zero products applied and no automatic car washes, then did a windex heavy duty wipe down a few times, a few hrs of 409 soaked paper towel stuck on the cladding by the filler door.....but even then, mine never seemed "chalky" or parched...just lighter bluish/gray in color...so maybe PO did apply something???

Funny thing is, I'm having a heck of a time blasting it off some parts of my pass side (I overestimated that 95% off estimate in an earlier post...didn't realize there was still some there, not nearly as shiny as when applied)....so I do have some that's adhering really good. :confused:

[circmand]

I agree techno.
I'd let it go at least 3 months with zero products applied and no automatic car washes, then did a windex heavy duty wipe down a few times, a few hrs of 409 soaked paper towel stuck on the cladding by the filler door.....but even then, mine never seemed "chalky" or parched...just lighter bluish/gray in color...so maybe PO did apply something???

Funny thing is, I'm having a heck of a time blasting it off some parts of my pass side (I overestimated that 95% off estimate in an earlier post...didn't realize there was still some there, not nearly as shiny as when applied)....so I do have some that's adhering really good. :confused:

The better a product adheres to a surface the harder it is too remove it.

[technocoy]

I'll make a separate post about the lights too, but just wanted to keep this thread updated...

It's been about a year and 3 months since I did the RR, and I washed her real good today since I had the time for once.

Here's how she's still looking with NOTHING but washing.

http://www.kwurk.com/vehicross/vx2011_1.jpg

http://www.kwurk.com/vehicross/vx2011_3.jpg

http://www.kwurk.com/vehicross/vx2011_4.jpg

Sorry a few are really bright on the paint... I wanted to expose the cladding so you could really tell how dark it still is.

My cladding was very faded when I originally put the RR on as well.

There are a few places in back where it's started to fade just a LITTLE and a couple little bits here and there where rocks have hit, but it really looks no different than if it were naked and the same thing happened.

I figure an a cooler day in the shade I'm going to try a "touch up" coat to see if it helps add to the coating. I'll post another update after that.

This is good stuff as long as you get it applied right and/or your cladding isn't cursed like KATs! I could imagine easily going the rest of the year before needing to really touch it up. I haven't put any other product on it since I put the RR on.

[workmeistr]

I applied one coat last year, and just did another coat recently. It looks great. I'm reluctant to do multiple coats at the same time, as I don't want it to build up and level off the cladding texture, or be more prone to chipping. I apply with a quality 2" paint brush in sections and buff nearly dry with a good microfiber towel 10-15 minutes later. This destroys both the brush and towel, as in the morning they'll both be hard. Best applied in, and left to fully dry overnight in a cooler garage. I've also used RR on the plastic bits of the factory roof rack and on corner pieces of the Thule 696 rack with equally impressive results.

[VX KAT]

I applied the R/R to my wing and it's still perfect. That's about 25 months ago.