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pbkid
05/06/2009, 06:33 PM
so i've had a welder set up for like 2 weeks to put my sliders and diff gaurd on...

well i called him yesterday to ask when he was gonna get a chance to weld it on, and he's like...oh ya, sorry ive been super busy...promise we will get it done before you leave...your leaving memorial day right?

im like...uhhhhh no.....i leave monday....

he's like, oh man really? ok well let me shuffle some stuff around and see what i can do...

so, im thinking im gonna have to bolt them on for this year...had anyone tried bolting on rocky-road sliders?? how difficult was it?? what am i gonna need??

Kenny
05/06/2009, 07:13 PM
HA! Jack, I feel for ya!
When I got my sliders the guy finished them 3 days before Moab, I had to scrounge to find a welder (I ended up using my muffler shop to do it on FRIDAY before I left!)

But, my standby was I had them bolted on Thursday. I had square plates welded to the posts that generally lined up with the frame contours - not easy. The plates had holes so I just jacked and propped the sliders into place and with a hammer drill I drilled into the frame with a 3/8" and then tapped the hole and bolted the skids on using lock washers. As an added security, on one hole at the front and back I went through and through and used a nylon nut on a 3" bolt.

The hard part is to prop them up in a position that won't end up shifting when you attach them, mine ended up a tad too close to the cladding at the front on the bolt up, we moved it 1/4" on the final welding.

So first off - do those square plates line up flush with your frame bolt on points?

If so, then pile up a 2x4 jig to hold the sliders square and steady as you drill the holes into the frame. Tap, bolt.
I recommend putting a long flat piece of narrow plywood between the slider and the lower cladding/frame just to make sure you have an even gap and you're not too close to the body for it to bend/vibrate into.

Once bolted on, I'm sure you can swing by somewhere in Moab to fully weld them on - if you're happy with the placement.

Good luck! I'm sure you can guilt the welder into doing it ;)

MSHardeman
05/06/2009, 08:25 PM
Jack, I think you covered this in another thread about the sliders, but I thought that we weren't supposed to weld to our frames. Something to do with the heat making the frame weaker?

pbkid
05/06/2009, 09:28 PM
ya, they say that its a 'cold weld' frame...which i guess just means you have to use a certain type of welder...i might bolt them on anyhow and have the diff gaurd welded...should only take 30 mins. to do the diff gaurd

Ldub
05/06/2009, 10:58 PM
To add to what Kenny said...

6" C-clamps can also be very useful in holding things together while mounting...:_wrench:

pbkid
05/06/2009, 11:59 PM
im hoping that between my jack, and 2 jack stands i should have enough to hold it up there..

Todd Adams
05/07/2009, 06:02 AM
ya, they say that its a 'cold weld' frame...which i guess just means you have to use a certain type of welder...i might bolt them on anyhow and have the diff gaurd welded...should only take 30 mins. to do the diff gaurd
Do not weld to the frame! ever. Your sliders need to be bolted. You can crawl under mine in Moab if you want but if you weld to the frame it will crack at some point. Frames are made to flex and are heat treated. Once you disturb this heat treatment and flex the frame it will start to develop cracks near the weld. Now on the other hand if you look at our jeep where the cage is welded to the frame the entire structure is now rigid so there is no flexing.
Todd

pbkid
05/07/2009, 09:18 AM
todd-
good to know! thanks for the heads up...i will be bolting them in in that case...

im alright to weld the diff gaurd on right??? i dont see how else you would connect it?

Todd Adams
05/07/2009, 10:59 AM
todd-
good to know! thanks for the heads up...i will be bolting them in in that case...

im alright to weld the diff gaurd on right??? i dont see how else you would connect it?
can't say since i don't know where it goes.

ZEUS
05/07/2009, 12:29 PM
todd-
good to know! thanks for the heads up...i will be bolting them in in that case...

im alright to weld the diff gaurd on right??? i dont see how else you would connect it?Rocky Road welded the prototype on mine 2.5 years ago and I saw no issues develop. Something you may want to research though is the possible need to remove the diff fluid before welding...

Todd Adams
05/07/2009, 12:49 PM
Rocky Road welded the prototype on mine 2.5 years ago and I saw no issues develop. Something you may want to research though is the possible need to remove the diff fluid before welding...

I assume this is the rear differential. I have never seen a weld on shield. I can’t believe Glen would not build this as a bolt on.

ZEUS
05/07/2009, 03:26 PM
I assume this is the rear differential. I have never seen a weld on shield. I can’t believe Glen would not build this as a bolt on.Yeah, it's for the rear - at least mine is. He asked me if I would be interested in having one made and installed (welded) for free and I said "SURE!" The install looks great too! I think maybe fabbing bolt in place bracketry would overcomplicate things and render it over-priced. :confused:

pbkid
05/07/2009, 08:06 PM
ya, i had it welded on today...the rear axle is welded anyhow so the welder said it wouldnt loose strength with the extra weld....

now im freaking out... i have NO access to a corded drill, only my cordless that is definately not strong enough to drill through our frame...

gonna have to get creative ;)

MSHardeman
05/07/2009, 08:59 PM
Talk to Gill. I remember him telling me how he had to have a shop with a right angle drill drill the holes in his frame for him because there's no room to get a regular drill into some of the spaces.

Ldub
05/07/2009, 10:02 PM
ya, i had it welded on today...the rear axle is welded anyhow so the welder said it wouldnt loose strength with the extra weld....

now im freaking out... i have NO access to a corded drill, only my cordless that is definately not strong enough to drill through our frame...

gonna have to get creative ;)

Hmmmmm...ya got a handgun around there?...:confused:...:rolleyesg...:laughgray

Jolly Roger VX'er
05/07/2009, 11:25 PM
ya, i had it welded on today...the rear axle is welded anyhow so the welder said it wouldnt loose strength with the extra weld....

now im freaking out... i have NO access to a corded drill, only my cordless that is definately not strong enough to drill through our frame...

gonna have to get creative ;)

I installed mine & it took multiple drills for me to get the job done. I used a 90 degree "big" Milwaukee corded drill (borrowed from Dad :) !) for the main mounting holes in the frame & where that wouldn't fit I used a smaller DeWalt 90 degree rechargeable drill (borrowed from Home Depot :o) for a couple on the frame and for the small holes along the sheet metal under your door I used a pneumatic 90 degree (borrowed from my mechanic/beer buddy :p) with different length bits (**ground shanks down on like 2 bits IIRC).

Also..on the frame...I marked each hole, then center-punched, drilled each hole small first (pilot) and then drilled a mid-sized hole followed by the desired size. Don't ask me what the desired size was as I can't 'member. (Alzheimer's :) )

Could probably do it with just the latter two drills I mentioned....but, have to admit the big 'ole' Milwaukee made short work of the first frame holes I used it on while the DeWalt had to work some (not as much torque). The pneumatic 90 degree drill "barely" fit to do the small holes & had to be positioned in various positions with different length bits to pull off the job. This was my experience anyways!

**IIRC I had to grind one bit's shank down alot as the pneumatic drill & bit combo barely fit in place to start drilling each hole. Had to insert "shorter-modified" bit into hole of slider...position pneumatic drill with chuck open..close chuck & drill hole until chuck bottoms out on slider...remove drill & bit...insert "longer-modifed" bit into same hole of slider...close chuck & drill hole through...repeat for next hole!

Hope this helps!


P.S.---The only other way I could see making it easier to drill the sheet-metal small holes under the door would be to some how mark the holes & remove sliders..drill holes..than re-install sliders & put in your small bolts. I didn't do it this way because I had already mounted my big bolts into the frame to hold the slider in position along with a floor jack & block of wood to coax it in position while I did the small holes with pneumatic drill.

pbkid
05/08/2009, 09:16 PM
ya, i found a corded drill i will be using tomorrow to make it work...got all the bits...now all i gotta do is spend the time to do it..

i have a heavy duty 90 degree attachment for drills so i should be good there..i have both a smaller and a larger 90 bit (use it at work all the time)

Ldub
05/08/2009, 09:31 PM
ya, i found a corded drill i will be using tomorrow to make it work...got all the bits...now all i gotta do is spend the time to do it..

i have a heavy duty 90 degree attachment for drills so i should be good there..i have both a smaller and a larger 90 bit (use it at work all the time)

I still think the handgun idea would save you alot of time...:yes:

pbkid
05/08/2009, 09:36 PM
I still think the handgun idea would save you alot of time...:yes:

dont have a handgun...but i have a shotgun :naughty:

Kenny
05/08/2009, 09:37 PM
If doing bolt on, do you need to sleeve the bolts so as not to "crush" the frame as you tighten them up?

I put a big washer on the back of mine when I bolted, but never thought of the pinching of the box frame - if it's even an issue...

Ldub
05/08/2009, 09:58 PM
If doing bolt on, do you need to sleeve the bolts so as not to "crush" the frame as you tighten them up?

I put a big washer on the back of mine when I bolted, but never thought of the pinching of the box frame - if it's even an issue...

Good point ...

Even beyone tightening, how aboot "spirited" slider use...:_confused

pbkid
05/09/2009, 08:38 PM
i think the weight is spread out enough that its not going to be an issue...they have 10 bolts per side...

pbkid
05/09/2009, 08:54 PM
good news....









THEY'RE ON!!!!!!!

7 hours today by myself..

kodiak
05/09/2009, 09:02 PM
Very cool!! Can't wait to see them.:thumbup:

don moore
05/09/2009, 11:24 PM
take some pics of them finished..we would like to see them

Jolly Roger VX'er
05/10/2009, 01:17 PM
good news....









THEY'RE ON!!!!!!!

7 hours today by myself..

I think you beat my time by 'aboot' an hour! I 'member it being like 4hrs per side by myself. Great to hear you were triumphant!!!!!!!