Custom Bumper Project

[Marlin]

Well, I guess I am the first to attempt this project. As incentive, I removed the front cladding and vowed to not put it back on until I am done. I managed to remove the tube portion with no tools...in case you didn't know, that is bad. It was rusted completely through, good deal for me, I am using the tube brackets for my mount, so that is one less thing for me to cut. Turns out that there is someone in my area that does custom fab work for Isuzus, so I need to get with him. I want to design it myself, but he can help me with technical advice and whatnot. Anyone with any ideas, feel free to chime in. It will be a removable bumper using hitch pins, the frame will be 2.25" square tubing with 2" tubing inserts for the removal portion. It will also have an integrated hitch. My thought process is the look of a stealth bomber, angled in the front, overall shape of the cladding, but higher up to increase approach angle. I will make one out of cardboard this weekend and post it up to see what you guys think.
Here is how my VX will look for the next month or so (I hope).

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Isuzu/IMGP0272.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Isuzu/IMGP0273.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Isuzu/IMGP0274.jpg

Here is what is left of my tube bumper:
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Isuzu/IMGP0267.jpg

[nfpgasmask]

Are you planning a custom bumper that replaces the front cladding, or are you going to make it uniformly go around the front cladding?

You're not going to drive around like that, are you? :eek: :D

Bart

[Bulldoggie]

If you are planning on hacking up your front cladding, I have a front cladding with a chip in the lower wheel well, I would love to trade :_drool:

[Bulldoggie]

the extra text can not be edited??????
It does not show to delete and was never typed :wtfo:

[Marlin]

Are you planning a custom bumper that replaces the front cladding, or are you going to make it uniformly go around the front cladding?

You're not going to drive around like that, are you? :eek: :D

Bart

The front cladding will be gone. The new bumper will replace all that useless plastic. That way I can sell the front cladding, and hopefully pay for a chunk of my project. And yes, I am driving around like that, that is my incentive to get it done. (And I am too lazy to put it back on and back off and back on and back off......)

[Rubicool]

I call Dibbs on your cladding if you sell it!

[pbkid]

well marlin...i guess billy and i wont be the only ones with some body armor in moab next year huh?? ;)

are you designing it like "RoadArmor" brand stuff?? (sorry cant post link because im at work)
by the stealthy comment i think thats what you are talking about..

[tomdietrying]

I can't wait. Your projects always come out first class.
Peace.
Tom

[Riff Raff]

Hmmm, interesting. In the meantime, paint that middle cladding support in front of the radiator Bright Red and make it look like a "tongue" sticking out!!! LOL

[etlsport]

id be careful about driving around like that.. theres pretty much no protection in the front now, so any front impact is gonna completely destroy your radiator, and probably your AC... also are you planning on rigging up some sort of front turn signal? if nothing else id try to find a replacement for that rusted tube so you have some sort of bumper there

but good luck on the project i am looking forward to how that turns out :thumbup:

[crager34]

Here is what is left of my tube bumper:
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Isuzu/IMGP0267.jpg

Yep.... I know that is exactly what mine looks like to, but it is still attached.

[Marlin]

Hmmm, interesting. In the meantime, paint that middle cladding support in front of the radiator Bright Red and make it look like a "tongue" sticking out!!! LOL

LOL, that may be a possibility. Let me think about it.
As far as no bumper, I would guess that most of you do not have a functional bumper anymore, and just do not know it. I knew mine was rusted, but I had no idea that it was that bad until I started manhandling it.
No turning signals=no problem, I drive 5 miles to work, each way, with only 3 turns. I don't drive it too often anywhere else, so no worries there.
I hope this project only takes a few weeks.

Roadarmor sounds cool, if this project comes out nice, I may sell this as a bolt on type kit, and I will call it Marlin Scale...pretty weak, I know...

[Bulldoggie]

I call Dibbs on your cladding if you sell it!

I was thinking that I asked about the front cladding first?

[Marlin]

Well, I won't be trading the cladding, I will be selling it, and being that it is one of the most desirable pieces, and mine is great shape, just minor scuffs, I will have to send it to the highest offer....once I am ready.
My VX looks to be turning more into a trail rig, that is still street usable. SO more cladding my come off and be replaced with steel and whatnot. This may be the beginning...

[nfpgasmask]

The front cladding will be gone. The new bumper will replace all that useless plastic. That way I can sell the front cladding, and hopefully pay for a chunk of my project. And yes, I am driving around like that, that is my incentive to get it done. (And I am too lazy to put it back on and back off and back on and back off......)

Useless? The aesthetically pleasing parts of the VX are never useless!! Isn't that why we all have VXes?? ;)

So, are you going to "replicate" the shape of the front cladding using tubing and sheet metal? I always wondered about a VX with "metal" cladding. I think it would be nearly impossible (read way to expensive) to have metal cladding in the same nice round shapes, but maybe a little more angular with accessories hidden beneath (winch, lights, hooks, etc) but the same basic shape would be an interesting goal.

Bart

[kodiak]

I don't know. There's just something about this bumper that screams Marin.;)

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/attachments/titan-towing-hauling/20004d1137792561-front-receiver-hitch-pict4156-low-.jpg

[Marlin]

That is on the right track Kodiak, or something like this...
http://www.roadarmor.com/site/, but minus the brushguard that comes over the lights. The side panels would no longer be curved, but rather angled.
I still consider the front plastic useless. Especially as pathetically made the bumper was...

[crager34]

Well, I won't be trading the cladding, I will be selling it, and being that it is one of the most desirable pieces, and mine is great shape, just minor scuffs, I will have to send it to the highest offer....once I am ready.
My VX looks to be turning more into a trail rig, that is still street usable. SO more cladding my come off and be replaced with steel and whatnot. This may be the beginning...


Carefull!!! We still want it to be a VX ya know. Not a mutant.

[JoFotoz]

So...this begs the question....



SO more cladding my come off and be replaced with steel and whatnot. This may be the beginning...


...why did ya buy a VX in the first place...:_thinking


jo

[taylorRichie]

I think he means useless as in, the front bumper easily rusts through (has happened to many) and the cladding is clearly aesthetic, and not really useful.

I for one, would love an all steal replacement for our front bumpers... assuming it could look as OE as possible.

Custom winch mounts for ours are just too much work.

[Jolly Roger VX'er]

I'm interested to see how your project turns out...thanks for the start to finish info...better than just a "here its done pic!"

[Marlin]

Carefull!!! We still want it to be a VX ya know. Not a mutant.

Hmm, that makes me think of a movie quote, I believe it is in "Dogma" where Salma Hayek mentions whether it is the breasts that make a woman a woman or what is inside? I know I butchered that, but you get the idea.
While I agree the VX has unique styling, IIRC it is Kodiak that has the sig that says "Cars made by spreadsheet make cents, cars made by engineers make history" I am more interested in the engineering of the VX. I have done very few mods, and at Moab I went on a Jeep run with some heavy modded Jeeps and kept up with them and did every obstacle they did.
That is why I have a VX.
This bumper deal, saves me money in the long run, those plastic pieces are going to get harder and harder to find as time goes, I consider mine a preemptive strike on the inevitable. Plus, with my factory bumper trashed, if I am gonna spend the money, might as well do it right and prevent future problems.
And last but not least, I want to be the first, and at least for awhile, to have a custom steel bumper with an integrated hitch(idea from Orion) and tow points and what not....:rolleyes:

[Marlin]

but maybe a little more angular with accessories hidden beneath (winch, lights, hooks, etc) but the same basic shape would be an interesting goal.

Bart

That my friend is a genius idea. Instead of bolting the cladding on, why not make it out of steel, same overall shape but a little more angular and further out and have it be hinged on the bottom...It would double as storage for whatever you want, trail tools, jack, who knows...and for those with huge offset, it would seemingly bring them back in a bit. Like a widebody kit on a Nissan or something like that...*sigh* another project to think about.
Do you think the door could handle the weight? LMFAO, I had to say that, in case you didn't get it, that would be a reference to the rear tire mount project...................

[pbkid]

chris...bad news....dont think you are going to be the only one with a custom bumper in moab next year ;)

[Marlin]

Are you gonna do it yourself...and what is all this "see you at Moab next year", "you aren't gonna be the only one at moab". I don't know if I am going, it was awesome, but so expensive and almost a whole year's vacation time. If I do go, we are staying at the hotel, camping requires way too much gear compared to a suitcase for the hotel. As much as I loved the campground...its just not practical for me.

[pbkid]

well...maybe billy and i will be the only ones then ;)

[Marlin]

Nothing huge, I did some mod to the fender ends, wheel liner, and removed unneeded brackets, cleaned up rust!!!! Looks nice with fresh paint. There was a ton of rust. It looks sweet, the fenders almost look like continuous cladding now. I didn't do any serious metal work yet. It was 95 with 85% humidity, heat index said 121. I was adjusting the steering nut to remove feedback when I realized it wasn't that hot anymore. That is bad, I knew it was balls hot. I figured I should probably come in before I died.
Here are a few pics:

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/IMGP0286.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/IMGP0289.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/IMGP0288.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/IMGP0287.jpg

[Marlin]

Here is what I am thinking:
It will be plated in 1/16" aluminum diamond tread painted flat black. It will be very angular and I will use the ISUZU grill insert, so when I
sell my front bumper, it will not include that, more to come.
The skidplate will attach to the bumper and go all the way back to second cross member.
The bumper will mount to frame in two spots, at the factory spot for the original bumper tube, and at the frame protusions inboard of there.
The tubes will be welded to the frame, the bumper portion will quick disconnect to protrusions via hitch pins.
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/sidebumper.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/bumperfront.jpg

[Riff Raff]

MARLIN--- Here's a suggestion. Inside the two(2) vertical support bars directly in front of the grill/radiator area: Use heavy-duty black "Expanded Metal" instead of solid diamond plate. The Expanded Metal mesh will allow cooling-air to pass directly into the front radiator, while still offering frontal protection.

They make various levels of heavy-duty Expanded Metal mesh, and you could get some of the really beefy stuff that is used for truck "cab guards", etc. Do a internet search for "Expanded Metal" to get some ideas for various strength levels.

On the outer side corners of the two(2) vertical support bars (left-front & right-front), you could still use the solid black diamond plate for protection as originally planned.

[Marlin]

MARLIN--- Here's a suggestion. Inside the two(2) vertical support bars directly in front of the grill/radiator area: Use heavy-duty black "Expanded Metal" instead of solid diamond plate. The Expanded Metal mesh will allow cooling-air to pass directly into the front radiator, while still offering frontal protection.

They make various levels of heavy-duty Expanded Metal mesh, and you could get some of the really beefy stuff that is used for truck "cab guards", etc. Do a internet search for "Expanded Metal" to get some ideas for various strength levels.

On the outer side corners of the two(2) vertical support bars (left-front & right-front), you could still use the solid black diamond plate for protection as originally planned.

That is a great idea, I was going to drill 2.5" holes evenly spaced, about the same area as the factory front end, but your idea is better. Thanks for the tip.

[don moore]

Im not to sure on the Blue color for the bumper .......I think it will clash with the color of your VX.. maybe a black would look better.................hehe

[crotchrocket]

i think the 2.5" holes would look way better than mesh!! It'll make it look *****....the rally look willlook mean!!

[JoFotoz]

A suggestion...

(I kind of skip read the whole thread , so if this has been suggested , forgive me...)

At each front corner of the new bumper set up...
..... incorporate brackets / lugs ,whatever...that fit a hi lift off road jack.

One of my major issues has been safe ( high) lifting of the front end when off road...back is ok if you have a tow hitch.

jo

[Riff Raff]

CROTCHROCKET--- The Expanded Metal Mesh will look totally stealth and offer much better frontal air-cooling without any air restrictions whatsoever. Drilled holes are gonna' look like someone just drilled some holes-- really cheesy (swiss cheese; excuse the pun). In addition, a tight Expanded Metal Mesh pattern will prevent small rocks/stones from flying into the radiator and putting a hole/puncture into the radiator, as opposed to a big 2.5" drilled hole which will allow large stones/debris from possibly damaging the radiator. The Expanded Metal Mesh is the best way to go with better frontal protection from flying debris and better air-cooling capabilities. A cooler engine is a happier engine!!!

JO--- Nah, MARLIN doesn't need those silly hi-lift jack anchor points because he uses an "inflatable" exhaust-air jack, plus he'll have a front square receiver hitch incorporated into the front bumper for trickier recovery operations. Further; MARLIN doesn't plan on ever getting stuck, because he's got the awesome Grabber AT2 tires which go anywhere!!!

[Triathlete]

JO--- Nah, MARLIN doesn't need those silly hi-lift jack anchor points because he uses an "inflatable" exhaust-air jack, plus he'll have a front square receiver hitch incorporated into the front bumper for trickier recovery operations. Further; MARLIN doesn't plan on ever getting stuck, because he's got the awesome Grabber AT2 tires which go anywhere!!!

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/laughing2.gifhttp://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/laughing2.gifhttp://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/laughing2.gif

Those "inflatable jacks" work real well on nice flat areas. Anything else they are unstable and get nice holes when in rocks. Nothing is better than a good ole high lift!:thumbup:

[JoFotoz]

Inflatable...did look at that once..ONCE!





JO--- Nah, MARLIN doesn't need those silly hi-lift jack anchor points because he uses an "inflatable" exhaust-air jack, plus he'll have a front square receiver hitch incorporated into the front bumper for trickier recovery operations. Further; MARLIN doesn't plan on ever getting stuck, because he's got the awesome Grabber AT2 tires which go anywhere!!!


As Billy says..great on a flat scape...slow wherever!

PLUS..having 4 tail pipes on the ORW makes it all but impossible for me....:eek:


A central front tow hitch "square" will work fine....but given this is still on the drawing board...

..I'd include corner lift mount/holes too.

jo

[pbkid]

i think i would agree with welding in some mounts towards the corners for tow points/jack points...





especially how marlin drives....he is gonna need em ;Db;

[Riff Raff]

Those "inflatable jacks" work real well on nice flat areas. Anything else they are unstable and get nice holes when in rocks.

TRIATHLETE--- Now; that's funny, you got it totally backwards.

The "inflatable exhaust air jacks" work absolutely the best on uneven/sloped terrain and actually mold themselves perfectly between the vehicle and uneven ground like a giant pillow. The inflatable bags are pretty tough and durable as is, but additional protective liners like car-mats aid in puncture resistance. The inflatable air jacks absolutely excel in difficult recovery operations such as deep mud, where the wide footprint and high flotation of the air-bag is still able to lift the vehicle without submurging itself into the mud. In addition, the inflatable jack will not slip-off and lose its vehicle or ground contact point like a high-lift jack will. The inflatable exhaust jack is by far the safest and best jack to use in any off-road environment; it doesn't weigh squat, and it doesn't bounce around the truck interior causing possible damage or personal injury like a high-lift jack.

The high-lift jacks are the jacks that only work well on totally flat surfaces under perfect conditions. On unstable/sloped ground, the high-lift jack can easily slip-off the mounting point (ground contact point AND/OR vehicle contact point) when the added weight and stress is applied during the jacking process. When the resulting high-lift jack quickly pops out of place, it can immediately cause further vehicle damage, permanent injury or even death!!! The high-lift jacks are extremely dangerous when used in an unstabe off-road environment and are totally worthless in mud, as the jack will just bury itself deeper into the mud (wasted effort). The high-lift jack should only be used on a totally perfectly flat, non-muddy surface under the most ideal conditions. The high-lift jack is old world 20th Century technology, and has been replaced by the safer, more lightweight and durable state-of-the-art 21st Century exhaust air jack which has endless vehicle recovery capabilities.

[rowhard]

just minor scuffs,
Chris, I watched you at Moab this year, Minor scrapes. Anyone, everyone, get photos first. Remember, he works on carriers. Ever watch them naval aviators land on a carrier, OMG

Just kidding, if Chris say it is good, it is good and worth the money, go for it Bill

[rowhard]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/laughing2.gifhttp://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/laughing2.gifhttp://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/images/smilies/laughing2.gif

Those "inflatable jacks" work real well on nice flat areas. Anything else they are unstable and get nice holes when in rocks. Nothing is better than a good ole high lift!:thumbup:

Billy, we use to lift aircraft with those bags on very on even surfaces. Secret is is to lay a one inch felt pad on top and on the bottom and the nice thing about them felt pads is them lay flat where ever you put them.

[Triathlete]

Alright then...I'll run out and buy 2 right after I get my light weight tires!:bgwo:j/k

So, how well does that tail pipe jack work if you are in a situation where you can not run your engine?



Remember, he works on carriers. Ever watch them naval aviators land on a carrier, OMG

I used to work on those guided projectiles that make those great displays of landingmanship!
This was one of my babies...
http://www.mindspring.com/~salted1/images/224/224_5.jpg
http://www.intruderassociation.org/images/patches/squ224b.gif

[JoFotoz]

Riff Raff...the hi lift jack is akin to chop-sticks.

They are BOTH still around...because THEY BOTH WORK....:cool:




I smell a lift and ''tire change'' challenge at Moab next year!:




:dan_ban::smack::dan_ban::smack::dan_ban:


jo

PS..My first bannnnnnanna dance...

....I feel good ..do be do be do be dooo...I new that I would!

[Marlin]

You guys are a trip, the exhaust bag takes about 45 seconds or so to inflate, works on any surface and as for holes....wait for it, wait for it.....that is why god gave us floor mats:) Thick rubber, conform to any shape, and will protect the bag. I do not see fire trucks running around with hi-jacks, they have inflatable bags.

Anyway, as for hi-jack points, not gonna happen, I will integrate tow points, not for me of course, but in case I have to pull a Jeep out in reverse:)

I should have some pic updates next weekend for the bumper and with any luck a final product, the hitch in the front is not a planning thing, it is a go or no go, if it isn't goin in, then the bumper isn't happening. Not much longer I promise....

[Riff Raff]

Ah; thanx MARLIN, you totally rock. Now, take that Billy & Jo-- neener, neener, neener!!!:dan_ban:

Oh, and thank you too ROWHARD for the added support as well.:dan_ban:

[Triathlete]

I smell a lift and ''tire change'' challenge at Moab next year!:


Campground games...yipee! Funny, when ZuZoo was "official" they used to have ZuZoopaluza on the last day at the Portal field (the field now is the upscale section) where we played fun stuff like "spotter challenge" were the blindfolded driver was guided through an obstacle course by their chosen spotter! Fun fun fun!

[rowhard]

So, how well does that tail pipe jack work if you are in a situation where you can not run your engine?



I used to work on those guided projectiles that make those great displays of landingmanship!
This was one of my babies...
http://www.mindspring.com/%7Esalted1/images/224/224_5.jpg
http://www.intruderassociation.org/images/patches/squ224b.gif

Well, would think you wouldn't be off roading alone, I sure wouldn't be so would use my mates tailpipe.

This is the wonderful one eleven (F-111) I worked on 18 of my 22 years in the Air Force. D's at Cannon, E's at RAF Upper Heyford, and the F's at RAF Lakenheath. Also a few transit A's and FB's from SAC but never a C from Australia
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/../gallery/data/500/thumbs/f111f2.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/forums/../gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15017)

Use to think Air Force pilots were Sierra Hotel (which they are) until I started watching the Military Channel. Naval aviators do have some 'serious attachment's' as David Hobbs would say on Formula 1 coverage on the speed channel.

They are, daring young men in their flying machines:yeso:

Now back to our normally televised thread, Marlin's custom bumper project

[pbkid]

:hj:

[Triathlete]

:hj:

Na, just entertaining ourselves while we wait for the next update!:tweed:

[Marlin]

Alright, update, after mowing the lawn and cleaning up all the fireworks and beer cans from last night, I spent a little while with my baby.
Number 1, the spare tire mount is still solid, I took my oldest out mudding and a little baja for fun. Had the VX airborne a few times, the mount didn't move.

On to the bumper, number 2, the Twincutter is awesome!!
I cut through 2" diameter, 1/8" wall thickness steel in seconds, very little kickback, very smooth cut.
Cons: metal chips everywhere, but the cut is smooth, and all the cuts are "freehand" since there is no deck to use, but if you are careful, yo uget great cuts in any direction. Another con is that it seems to get hot pretty quick. I would never use this on wood, a circular saw would be much better. But for steel, it crushes my sawzall and my jigsaw.

Here is all I got done, but it took a bit, metal work is no joke. The tubing that is mounted is via one bolt that held the factory bumper on. I will leave the one bolt and weld a bead when I get into the shop. The 2 1/4" tubing will slide over the tubing shown, and hitch pins will hold the two together. It is a SNUG fit, so not worried about vibration or anything like that. As I said, these two types of tubing are the same used for fifth wheel landing gear and slideout support struts on RVs.

Now, back to your previous entertainments, as far as pilots being Sierra-hotel, they are, **** Heads.:)

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Isuzu/IMGP0293.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Isuzu/IMGP0295.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Isuzu/IMGP0296.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Isuzu/IMGP0294.jpg

[don moore]

that gives me an idea on missle tubes placements..for a project...

[Marlin]

that gives me an idea on missle tubes placements..for a project...

Did you read the license plate thread....you gotta be careful what you say on here, FBI may be sittin outside your house tomorrow....

[Marlin]

I got the sleeves cut and drilled and mounted, 70K lb tensile strength. I can pull a semi with this bumper when I am done!!!!!!!!!!! May be a bit overkill. Anyway, I cut the two crossbars, put the 45s on one, cut the receiver tube, here are some pics with it ziptied together, next stop, welder, its ready to weld, gotta pick up some 1/16" thick aluminum for the panels, almost done...I can taste it. now I have to decide to paint it myself, or fork over the bucks for powdercoat? That isn't gonna be cheap.
I talked to my father about the project, business is slow at his company, so he said If I send him measurements and pics, they can fab up the bumper, welded, powdercoated and shipped for probably around $1K. He won't make less than 5 at a time though, and would need a deposit. I will post all the pics of mine when I am done, and if there are others interested, we may be able to get something done.

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0306.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0307.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0308.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0309.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0310.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0305.jpg

[don moore]

its starting to look like a down under RU-GUARD..

[Triathlete]

Marlin, maybe its the angle of the photos, but it looks like the lower section is going to stick out quite a bit. This is going to cause you to loose some approach angle. It looks like you could get it in closer to the frame ends if you reversed your tubes...put the bigger tube as your mount and have the bumper tube slide into that.

[Marlin]

Marlin, maybe its the angle of the photos, but it looks like the lower section is going to stick out quite a bit. This is going to cause you to loose some approach angle. It looks like you could get it in closer to the frame ends if you reversed your tubes...put the bigger tube as your mount and have the bumper tube slide into that.

Hmmmm, I think that you may be right. I may get rid of the bottom tube all together, and weld trusses in for the hitch receiver tube. Thanks for the input, as it is in the pictures, it is about the same height off the ground as the original cladding. Of course I will have sheet metal across the hole bottom, so I can just slide up any obstacle, but it would defeat the purpose of my project if I don't increase my approach angle.

[Marlin]

I know I said before that Moab was my bday present, but I went and bought myself a little arc welder today for my 30th bday. Got a nice face shield, gloves, blankets and so on. Saturday morning I am gonna weld up my bumper!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Pics to follow if I do not set myself on fire or my house.

[pbkid]

cant wait to see it!

my bumper project isnt going as well as yours :(

ran into some unexpected financial issues, we will see what i can come up with ;)

yours is looking great though!

[rowhard]

Be sure to plug into that reactor you take care of so you have plenty of juice:bwgy:

[Marlin]

Here you all go. I spent all day, I have a horrible welding sunburn:( Well worth it though. Stick welding is hard....I had a friend who used to do it for a living come over and help. I also got some big *** 1/2" forged D rings to bolt on tomorrow as well using 3/8 inch grade 8 carriage bolts. This thing is gonna be diesel. Bow down in envy everyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I hope you all enjoy the pics, tomorrow I might start the sheet metal tomorrow, should be easier, but time consuming. I took Billy and Brian's advice and moved the hitch up. Now it won't be a shovel. It is crazy strong. I feel sorry if I hit someone head on.....
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0321.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0316.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0320.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0322.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0324.jpg

[tomdietrying]

Looks like a winner! I like it.
Peace.
Tom

[Riff Raff]

Impressive MARLIN, it's really coming along. You mentioned frontal impact; that reminds me, where is the "air bag deployment sensor" located in case of frontal impact???

Those are really nice smooth welds. If this is your first time welding; your friend is an awesome teacher, and his experience truly shows.

The tow hitch appears to be "inverted" upside-down and welded to the front cross-bar, as the safety chain holes are on the top (instead of normally on the bottom). That's pretty crafty of you.

After it's all finished, the front tow hitch hole will be hidden from view with a 1967/1968 Mercury Cougar flip-down license plate holder (originally used as rear gas cap access on early Cougars). The vintage Cougar license plate holder could also be mounted inverted upside-down where it "flips-up" (instead of flips-down), so as not to interfere with possible receiver drop-hitches that might hang down lower once inserted into the hitch hole.

Lastly; and most important, where can I get one of those Big Wheel Tricycles you have in the picture??? I've looked everywhere, but can't find one in my specific size. LOL.

[Marlin]

Impressive MARLIN, it's really coming along. You mentioned frontal impact; that reminds me, where is the "air bag deployment sensor" located in case of frontal impact???

Those are really nice smooth welds. If this is your first time welding; your friend is an awesome teacher, and his experience truly shows.

The tow hitch appears to be "inverted" upside-down and welded to the front cross-bar, as the safety chain holes are on the top (instead of normally on the bottom). That's pretty crafty of you.

After it's all finished, the front tow hitch hole will be hidden from view with a 1967/1968 Mercury Cougar flip-down license plate holder (originally used as rear gas cap access on early Cougars). The vintage Cougar license plate holder could also be mounted inverted upside-down where it "flips-up" (instead of flips-down), so as not to interfere with possible receiver drop-hitches that might hang down lower once inserted into the hitch hole.

Lastly; and most important, where can I get one of those Big Wheel Tricycles you have in the picture??? I've looked everywhere, but can't find one in my specific size. LOL.

Not sure about crafty, but it just made sense once we were working on it. This way it cannot get hung up on anything underneath, and I will have one continuous flat surface, if I come across something too tall, I can just nudge up against it and push, it will scoot up it.
The license cover will happen, but it might be a while, I gotta hook up turn signals and whatnot first.

As for the trike, at your age, it might be better to save your pennies and get a hoveround:)

http://hoveround.com/wp/images/content/scooters/transporter-1.jpg

[Riff Raff]

As for the trike, at your age, it might be better to save your pennies and get a hoveround:)


Well; since you just had your 30th B-day, you're now quickly catching up to me. Thus; I'll get two(2) hoverounds, so you and I can hit the sidewalks together.

[Marlin]

Well; since you just had your 30th B-day, you're now quickly catching up to me. Thus; I'll get two(2) hoverounds, so you and I can hit the sidewalks together.

Nope, that is my next project, make the VX a rear steer. That way I can take it anywhere, maybe even move the driver's seat to the middle.

[handeeman]

Well; since you just had your 30th B-day, you're now quickly catching up to me. Thus; I'll get two(2) hoverounds, so you and I can hit the sidewalks together.


Nope, that is my next project, make the VX a rear steer. That way I can take it anywhere, maybe even move the driver's seat to the middle.
I think Marlin has givin me an Idea for my 1st Mod, love the thought of rear steering and seat in the middle. Since I've got ya both by a few years I might consider shipping my VX to Merlin for the "Hoverround Mod". Course I'll wait until he finishes his bumper project. Hum, seat in the middle and rear steering, what a mental picture. lmao

[Riff Raff]

The "seat in the middle" trick reminds me of Jay Leno's McClaren F-1, which has the driver's seat in the middle and two(2) side pod passenger seats (one on each side L & R).

[Marlin]

The "seat in the middle" trick reminds me of Jay Leno's McClaren F-1, which has the driver's seat in the middle and two(2) side pod passenger seats (one on each side L & R).

I actually got the idea from the Monster Trucks, they are center drive with rear wheel, auto return to center steering.

Well boys, I hope you have some tissues handy, and I do not mean for tears...;)

Here it is with the skid plate, took about 3 hours to get it bent and fitted up. It is not going anywhere...ever. I added the tow points, this week I will try to get the 1/16" plate steel for the cosmetic stuff. Then I add driving lights and turn signals, and voila, the first ever full custom front bumper for a VX. I will drill out the oil filter and oil plug access as well. That will be a cinch. So close now...so close.
I know that the tow point brackets are crooked, that keeps them tilted toward the inside, minimizing the vibration and flopping around. The front edge of the skid plate will not show once the sheet metal is installed.
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0327.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0328.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0330.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0332.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0333.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0335.jpg

[Scott Harness]

Tissues used... Round of applause...Looks fantastic!:clap:

[handeeman]

Tissues not needed here, I like it ! I think my new motto will be "If I can dream it- Marlin can Mod it! " You shoulda been a Seabee. I think maybe ya are, a Seabee irradiated. Luv it man!

[Scott Harness]

Tissues not needed here, I like it ! I think my new motto will be "If I can dream it- Marlin can Mod it! " You shoulda been a Seabee. I think maybe ya are, a Seabee irradiated. Luv it man!

Re-read post #67:smilewink

[tomdietrying]

That is looking really good.

One thing I like about you. You say you're going to do it, and you actually do it. When can you come over and do mine?

Peace.
Tom

[Marlin]

That is looking really good.

One thing I like about you. You say you're going to do it, and you actually do it. When can you come over and do mine?

Peace.
Tom

Thanks, at least there is one thing you like about me:smack:

Tomorrow I will post up my front cladding, and the turn signals and fog light housings for sale for those that are interested...

[don moore]

i think if your going to dive it .. you should tie up that strap.. it might hangup on the tires while you drive.......

[JoFotoz]

Love the "bones" so far!

The skin will be the teller...:cool:

jo

[Marlin]

i think if your going to dive it .. you should tie up that strap.. it might hangup on the tires while you drive.......

LOL, that is what my wife said, "Are you gonna drive it around with that strap?"
Probably not, It was for show for the photo, maybe I can weld some hooks onto the plate and keep it on for offroading, but I am afraid of what the sun will do to it during long term exposure and making it brittle.

[Marlin]

Here are the turn signals I am installing. Should be unique...http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LED-Turning-Signal-Light-8035_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZQ7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q 3a30QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em14Q2el1262QQhashZitem2 55553ec1fQQitemZ160345353247QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPar tsQ5fAccessories

[PK]

Marlin, I really hope you are happy with the end result.
That is what matters most.
Having said that, I think you should get someone from a local 4wd club have a look at your setup, and advise on how to beef up the anchor points for your strap, and the anchor points back onto the chassis.

Most official 4wd clubs have very strict rules that apply to towing points.
If you have ever seen what damage a snatch strap can do when one end breaks loose, you would understand why.

Looking good or not, being able to safely use it is a totally different matter.

I am talking from experience, and only with concern about the safety of your trail mates in mind.:yesgray::yesy::yeso:

Best regards

PK

[Marlin]

Marlin, I really hope you are happy with the end result.
That is what matters most.
Having said that, I think you should get someone from a local 4wd club have a look at your setup, and advise on how to beef up the anchor points for your strap, and the anchor points back onto the chassis.

Most official 4wd clubs have very strict rules that apply to towing points.
If you have ever seen what damage a snatch strap can do when one end breaks loose, you would understand why.

Looking good or not, being able to safely use it is a totally different matter.

I am talking from experience, and only with concern about the safety of your trail mates in mind.:yesgray::yesy::yeso:

Best regards

PK

Hmmm, I did not know that, but I was thinking about how Warn bumpers, and Hummers have their tow points on the bumper. My steel is actually almost double the strength of the Warn bumpers, and those D rings are rated to 10K lbs. They are mounted double walled with 1/2" grade 8 bolts, not sure you can get any stronger, I suppose to I could weld a bback plate to the tubing? The other good thing is that I can just disconnect the hooks and move them back to the factory tow points in a few seconds, just 1 cotter pin each:)

Thanks for the heads up, I am sure Joe Darlington will look at it with great scrutiny when we get to Uwharrie in Oct. If you don't know who Joe D is, he does a lot of fab works for Isuzu, including Tie rods, tie rod shields, bumpers, sliders.....and the list goes on. I am interested in what he recommends as well.
Thanks again PK

[Triathlete]

I would use a weld on type that the shackle connects dirrectly to...less parts to fail!
http://www.comp4x4.com/graphics/IM000415.jpg

For bolt on I would use something like this
http://www.okoffroad.com/gifs/stuff/bsm-xd-a.jpg
and have a solid plate behind it sandwiching the bumper material. This will help prevent the bolt heads from pulling through. Might be overkill but better safe than sorry!

And I am pretty sure you said you were doing so but just incase...high quality grade 8 bolts ONLY!

[Marlin]

I would use a weld on type that the shackle connects dirrectly to...less parts to fail!
http://www.comp4x4.com/graphics/IM000415.jpg

For bolt on I would use something like this
http://www.okoffroad.com/gifs/stuff/bsm-xd-a.jpg
and have a solid plate behind it sandwiching the bumper material. This will help prevent the bolt heads from pulling through. Might be overkill but better safe than sorry!

And I am pretty sure you said you were doing so but just incase...high quality grade 8 bolts ONLY!

Shoulda coulda woulda:)....I went with bolt on type, grade 8 bolts, not sure if I need the plate on the back, the wall thickness on the tube is 3/32", that is some pretty thick stuff. I do have about 3/8" of bolt left, so I may add it later.

[Ldub]

[QUOTE=Marlin;166483]
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0332.jpg

One thing you might consider for strengthening the whole setup, is drilling out the holes where your current pins are, & upgrading to full size trailer hitch pins.

If they're already the same dia. maybe drill out the hole further forward, & double pin it.

Just thinkin' out loud...:_thinking

[Marlin]

[QUOTE=Marlin;166483]
One thing you might consider for strengthening the whole setup, is drilling out the holes where your current pins are, & upgrading to full size trailer hitch pins.

If they're already the same dia. maybe drill out the hole further forward, & double pin it.

Just thinkin' out loud...:_thinking

I actually talked to my dad about that. The pin itself is rated to 90K lbs before bending. The hole is rated to a little under 40Klbs, prior to hole elongation. If I go to the 1/2" pin, it buys me another 15Klbs. Not sure what I would need 40Klbs of stress for? I am going to take Billy's advice and sleeve a pair of the inner 2" tubes into the crossbar and place the bolts for the tow hooks through that. It will then be all but impossible to bend the tube via the tow points. That will be a total of 1/2" of steel to bend, not sure what the grade 8 3/8" bolts are rated to, but its gotta be a whole lot.

I should start the sheet metal work next week sometime, no time this week. I am probably going to go with 16gage plate. The aluminum is too hard to bend, and way too expensive. Steel is cheap. I about blew out a nut bending the front of that skid plate. That was with two of us using a sheet metal brake. For those doubting the strength of 1/8" thick aluminum plate....don't, it will kill you!!!!

[Ldub]

[QUOTE=Ldub;166866]

I actually talked to my dad about that. The pin itself is rated to 90K lbs before bending. The hole is rated to a little under 40Klbs, prior to hole elongation. If I go to the 1/2" pin, it buys me another 15Klbs. Not sure what I would need 40Klbs of stress for? I am going to take Billy's advice and sleeve a pair of the inner 2" tubes into the crossbar and place the bolts for the tow hooks through that. It will then be all but impossible to bend the tube via the tow points. That will be a total of 1/2" of steel to bend, not sure what the grade 8 3/8" bolts are rated to, but its gotta be a whole lot.

I should start the sheet metal work next week sometime, no time this week. I am probably going to go with 16gage plate. The aluminum is too hard to bend, and way too expensive. Steel is cheap. I about blew out a nut bending the front of that skid plate. That was with two of us using a sheet metal brake. For those doubting the strength of 1/8" thick aluminum plate....don't, it will kill you!!!!

Sweet!...Overbuilt is good!...:thumbup:

[Marlin]

[QUOTE=Marlin;166871]

Sweet!...Overbuilt is good!...:thumbup:

Speaking of overbuilt, my dad looked at my pics finally. His only recommendation was to weld some gussets from the inside of the "sleeve" tubes to the front crossbar to prevent any lateral movement of the bumper and to minimize stress on the frame of the truck if towing. Damn, he is way smarter than I am. I also want to put a round tube arch over the receiver that comes up to the hood, for that brush guard look, I will make it follow the curve of the Isuzu grill insert. He recommended I get a conduit bender and just use 1" or 1.5" conduit, it isn't structural, just for pretty and to take some of the angle out of the front. *sigh* if only you guys could see what I see in my head.
My bumper will look sweet, but then again, I am it's mother, and all mothers think their children look the best:)

[PK]

Hmmm, I did not know that, but I was thinking about how Warn bumpers, and Hummers have their tow points on the bumper. My steel is actually almost double the strength of the Warn bumpers, and those D rings are rated to 10K lbs. They are mounted double walled with 1/2" grade 8 bolts, not sure you can get any stronger, I suppose to I could weld a bback plate to the tubing? The other good thing is that I can just disconnect the hooks and move them back to the factory tow points in a few seconds, just 1 cotter pin each:)

Thanks for the heads up, I am sure Joe Darlington will look at it with great scrutiny when we get to Uwharrie in Oct. If you don't know who Joe D is, he does a lot of fab works for Isuzu, including Tie rods, tie rod shields, bumpers, sliders.....and the list goes on. I am interested in what he recommends as well.
Thanks again PK

Hi Marlin,
I have just gone back through all your photos and would like to offer the following -
The hook bolts pass through your SHS tube without anything to stop crush of the steel tube. You need to weld some steel tube (round) spacers from the front edge of the SHS to the rear edge. This will spread the load over both of the section areas of the SHS. Alternatively, weld a pad, full height of the SHS and about 6mm (1/4") thick, wide enough to pick up both of the bolts for 1 hook.

The lynch pin points do not look man enough or the loads generated on the front and rear of the respective holes. They look as though the holes will elongate. I would either double the number of pins, or weld pads onto the outside of the outer tube, and inside of the inner tubes, to increase the load bearing area.

The bolt point to the chassis looks to be only one bolt per side for your main attachment point. This would bring into question, the strength of the bolts in shear, and again, the load bearing area of the tube to prevent elongation.


Mind you I have not crunched the numbers because I don't have enough information on the materials you have used.
Most snatch straps used these days are rated at a SWL of 8000kg (17,640 lbs). You need to design so that if anything breaks, it is the strap. A flying strap can hurt - even break bones, but put a lump of steel on the end of it, and it can kill.
From a design point of view, we would use a safety factor of 2:1, so your design strength needs to be capable of supporting 35K lbs.

If you had 16 - 17 tons hanging from your arrangement, would you walk under it??

Please accept above points as a genuine attempt to help.

Regards

PK

[Marlin]

Hi Marlin,
I have just gone back through all your photos and would like to offer the following -
The hook bolts pass through your SHS tube without anything to stop crush of the steel tube. You need to weld some steel tube (round) spacers from the front edge of the SHS to the rear edge. This will spread the load over both of the section areas of the SHS. Alternatively, weld a pad, full height of the SHS and about 6mm (1/4") thick, wide enough to pick up both of the bolts for 1 hook.

The lynch pin points do not look man enough or the loads generated on the front and rear of the respective holes. They look as though the holes will elongate. I would either double the number of pins, or weld pads onto the outside of the outer tube, and inside of the inner tubes, to increase the load bearing area.

The bolt point to the chassis looks to be only one bolt per side for your main attachment point. This would bring into question, the strength of the bolts in shear, and again, the load bearing area of the tube to prevent elongation.


Mind you I have not crunched the numbers because I don't have enough information on the materials you have used.
Most snatch straps used these days are rated at a SWL of 8000kg (17,640 lbs). You need to design so that if anything breaks, it is the strap. A flying strap can hurt - even break bones, but put a lump of steel on the end of it, and it can kill.
From a design point of view, we would use a safety factor of 2:1, so your design strength needs to be capable of supporting 35K lbs.

If you had 16 - 17 tons hanging from your arrangement, would you walk under it??

Please accept above points as a genuine attempt to help.

Regards

PK

Great advice, I was already planning on placing another sleeve inside both ends of the tubes for the tow points. That will prevent the crushing of the tubes. I can easily drill another set of holes in order to double pin the outer sleeves to the inner sleeves.
As for the frame bolts, there are two, I used the factory bumper mounting points as well as the factory bumper bolts. I think they are 17mm grade 8? They go through the 1/4" plate that makes up the front of the frame bumper bracket.
I think at that point, the weakest spot on the whole set up would probably be the bolts for the tow points. But as I mentioned earlier, I can move the tow hooks from "my" points to the factory points in less than 10 seconds, I left them accessible on purpose. So if I am buried in mud doing some serious snatching, then I can move the tow hooks. If it is normal, stuck on an obstacle, just need to move snatching, then I can leave it. I plan on going out to the woods when I am done and tying off to a big tree. Then I will slowly back up with a buddy watching to see if anything moves, if it does, that is the next thing to upgrade. This way I can test it in a controlled environment without danger to anything or anyone. Tree huggers may be upset, I will be stressing out a tree.....:bwgy:

[Robbomaz]

Hmmm, I did not know that, but I was thinking about how Warn bumpers, and Hummers have their tow points on the bumper. My steel is actually almost double the strength of the Warn bumpers, and those D rings are rated to 10K lbs. They are mounted double walled with 1/2" grade 8 bolts, not sure you can get any stronger, I suppose to I could weld a bback plate to the tubing? The other good thing is that I can just disconnect the hooks and move them back to the factory tow points in a few seconds, just 1 cotter pin each:)

Thanks for the heads up, I am sure Joe Darlington will look at it with great scrutiny when we get to Uwharrie in Oct. If you don't know who Joe D is, he does a lot of fab works for Isuzu, including Tie rods, tie rod shields, bumpers, sliders.....and the list goes on. I am interested in what he recommends as well.
Thanks again PK
Great work so far :bwgy: If I may put in 2c?
My first thought was with your snatch points where they are - wide apart and on the ends of your extensions - there would be a degree of leverage 'crush' force trying to pinch the two together during the snatch. Whether you would actually get any movement I dunno, but with the hitch points closer together the effect would be less.
I've seen a snatch by an expert using the factory designated points kink a chassis leg in :(
As I said, just my first thought, feel free to slap me :p
Rob

[Marlin]

Great work so far :bwgy: If I may put in 2c?
My first thought was with your snatch points where they are - wide apart and on the ends of your extensions - there would be a degree of leverage 'crush' force trying to pinch the two together during the snatch. Whether you would actually get any movement I dunno, but with the hitch points closer together the effect would be less.
I've seen a snatch by an expert using the factory designated points kink a chassis leg in :(
As I said, just my first thought, feel free to slap me :p
Rob

Wow, I never thought about that? How do the hummers and Jeeps get away with using tow points that far apart? Hopefully the gussets I weld in this week will add enough stability to minimize the potential damage. This is another reason I love this site. I ahve never done anything like this before, and I am getting all kinds of feedback.
Some I will upgrade, some I think are not needed, but all are important, so if my setup fails, you can say "I told you so!!"
Then I get to rebuild...yipppeeeee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Triathlete]

Although not structural as you said you may want to build that grill hoop as if it is. If you have a minor front end collision that hoop will bend into your hood/grill causing more damage than if you didn't have it. Just ask anyone that has had an accident with a safari bar in the front.

[vt_maverick]

Although not structural as you said you may want to build that grill hoop as if it is. If you have a minor front end collision that hoop will bend into your hood/grill causing more damage than if you didn't have it. Just ask anyone that has had an accident with a safari bar in the front.

I thought the whole point of safari bars was to PROTECT the front of the car? :confused:

[Triathlete]

Nope, Safari bars (aka brush gaurds) are pretty much cosmetic. They will move light brush out of the way but thats about it.

[Marlin]

Nope, Safari bars (aka brush gaurds) are pretty much cosmetic. They will move light brush out of the way but thats about it.

Yep, I know that, saw someone rip the guard off the front of their rodeo in NC, tried to warn them....but they wouldn't listen.

As far as making my hoop "structural", I dunno, if I drove around worrying like that, I would never move it out of my driveway, if I get into a front end collision with something big enough to get up that high, I am screwed and it is totaled anyway.
ALthough it would give me a reason to get a 12ton press to bend tubing with.....my garage is starting to look like a metal shop.

[Robbomaz]

Wow, I never thought about that? How do the hummers and Jeeps get away with using tow points that far apart? Hopefully the gussets I weld in this week will add enough stability to minimize the potential damage. This is another reason I love this site. I ahve never done anything like this before, and I am getting all kinds of feedback.
Some I will upgrade, some I think are not needed, but all are important, so if my setup fails, you can say "I told you so!!"
Then I get to rebuild...yipppeeeee!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Were it me, I'd put them just inside the width of the chassis rails apart, but it looks like you have a lot of metal in there, should be plenty strong:bwgy: I'm watching this closely, I have to either buy a roo bar for my project (ho hum everyones got one of those) or do what you're doing

[Robbomaz]

Yep, I know that, saw someone rip the guard off the front of their rodeo in NC, tried to warn them....but they wouldn't listen.

As far as making my hoop "structural", I dunno, if I drove around worrying like that, I would never move it out of my driveway, if I get into a front end collision with something big enough to get up that high, I am screwed and it is totaled anyway.
ALthough it would give me a reason to get a 12ton press to bend tubing with.....my garage is starting to look like a metal shop.
We get people here underestimating the load all the time! Have seen a snatch yank the whole roo bar off the front of a Prado, leaving the car in the bog and smashing the back window of the pull vehicle......half the bolts were loose, and none were hi-ten:mad:
I HAVE a snatch, but will do anything to avoid using it. I reckon too many folks reach for the snatch first.....but then I am old & cautious!
Rob

[Marlin]

Were it me, I'd put them just inside the width of the chassis rails apart, but it looks like you have a lot of metal in there, should be plenty strong:bwgy: I'm watching this closely, I have to either buy a roo bar for my project (ho hum everyones got one of those) or do what you're doing

No way I would go with ordinary, run of the day stuff. I have had a lot of fun making this thing, and I cannot even begin to tell you how much I have learned. Metal work is a whole new world for me. I think it moght be addictive, I find myself walking around the house thinking "I could fab something for that" "I oucld weld that together".
I am going to make the pretty pieces this afternoon out of cardboard and post up some pics to get advice, I will also go ahead and sleeve the inserts for the tow points, and drill out second holes for another set of pins. The gussets can wait until I do the body work. That should satisfy just about everyone:)
Then I will tie it to a tree, pull the tree out of the ground, destroy the tranny and break a few straps, just to prove that my bumper was not the weak point!!! LOL.

[Marlin]

First upgrade complete. I put the 2" tubing sleeved into the crossbar for the tow points. Took forever, that is a whole lot of steel to drill through, and the bit is about $15. I made the sleeve about 10" long, so that should do plenty to spread the force over a bit wide of an angle, as well as strengthen the weld point. Thanks for the advice guys. I gotta find a scrap yard so I can get materials to make the gussets with.

[Marlin]

Update*** I am upgrading the clevis pins to 5/8" hitch pins this weekend, and I decided to take Billy's advice and get some bolt through D-ring shackles. By autocad, the weakest point will be about 20K lbs at the welds on the tubing. The front portion of the frame will bend before the bumper does, assuming the welds are good.
For the metal work guys, the inner tube is 8gauge, and the outer tube is 12 gauge.
I will post up the pics of the new shackle mounts, that may be a few months, but the pins are this weekend for sure, as well as some of the sheet metal work. I got my LED turn signals in, and picking up the driving lights Friday. HID kit for those will be in August sometime. I may not do the whole front end in sheet metal, it is starting to grow on me:) Just do the bottom and sides so it looks a little tighter, and a front facia for the lights and to hide the tubing. I don't know what to do next:( I am running out of projects. Any ideas? I may get the hubs this weekend too if it isn't 100 degrees and raining.

[blacksambo]

Don't take this the wrong way but... what you have created is liable to be just as rust prone as what you removed except it's more exposed to salt and also hopefully washing....not to mention it would drive Simon Cox (original VX designer) to drinking. Again, don't take me wrong, we have two '99's that I powerwash each week snow or shine and I do flush that bumper area extensively. So far no bad rust, yet. Stay tuned.

[Marlin]

Don't take this the wrong way but... what you have created is liable to be just as rust prone as what you removed except it's more exposed to salt and also hopefully washing....not to mention it would drive Simon Cox (original VX designer) to drinking. Again, don't take me wrong, we have two '99's that I powerwash each week snow or shine and I do flush that bumper area extensively. So far no bad rust, yet. Stay tuned.

No offense taken, you are one of the lucky few that do not have the rusty bumper problem.(I have no salt problems here in Charleston:) ) The scary part is that most people will never remove their cladding and check their bumper, which means they have nothing for low speed fender bender protection and they don't even know it.

Isuzu is notorious for making vehicles that are very susceptible to corrosion. Not their strong point. My bumper on the other hand is enameled and primered, and soon the openings will be capped. But since it is accessible, I can see any rust early on and take care of it.
As for Simon, although he designed an amazing vehicle, there are some significant design flaws: No drink holder, no way to open rear door without a key, stupid plastic front end with no "meat" to it. Donut spare, hard plastic arm rest on door. These are design problems, things like the window problems and what not are later on, and I don't fault those as design issues.
The lesson being there is always room for improvement, I don't care too much if people like the look of my bumper, I am the only one with a real, functional setup, that I did myself, not store bought.
As for mods, I am an electrician by trade, so I don't really enjoy electrical mods but here is what I am doing now:

I got some H3 driving lights with blue LED halo around the housing. I am going to wire the blue LED with the new LED turn signals. It looks pretty sweet, when I am done, I will post night video. The driving lights will be wired via the factory driving light switch. I will upgrade the H3s to HIDs sometime soon, that would be a total cost for my lighting project of 90 bucks. 20 for the LED turn signals from Hong Kong, (driving lights on clearance, and I had 10 bucks off and 10% military discount), so I only paid 27 dollars. The HID kit is around 40 from Hong Kong. SWEET!!!!!!!!!!!!

[tomdietrying]

I'm sure it will look sic. I can't wait to see the pics!
Peace.
Tom

p.s.
I wasn't intentionally trying to ryme.:)

[Ldub]

I'm sure it will look sic. I can't wait to see the pics!
Peace.
Tom

p.s.
I wasn't intentionally trying to ryme.:)
But it happens all the time...:laughing:

[Marlin]

I just finished drilling the new holes for the 5/8" pins. That will NEVER be the fail point now. The drill bit cost 20 bucks!!!! I did get an order for another skid plate, so I will use that money to get a new corded drill with a 1/2" chuck. I used my cordless Hitachi Li-ion 18v drill. It made it through 6 of the 8 holes before the battery died. That is pretty amazing for a cordless drill to drill 5/8" hole through 8gage hardened steel.

[pbkid]

nice, hey marlin where did you pick up the driving lights with halo rings??? ive been searching high and low for some...
do they "fit" in the factory fog light spot???

[MSHardeman]

Jack, check these guys out:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-01-Isuzu-Vehicross-Xenon-Fog-Lamps-lights-vehi-98-00_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhas hZitem23023f55b0QQitemZ150361560496QQptZMotorsQ5fC arQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
They are similar to the ones that I have on my VX, but better. You can change the color of the LED ring on these and the ring is behind the fog light lens.
I had to cut the flange out of the holes that the stock lights twist into to get the new fogs to sit back in the holes. If you don't cut the flange out then the new fog lights would stick out of the holes.

[Marlin]

nice, hey marlin where did you pick up the driving lights with halo rings??? ive been searching high and low for some...
do they "fit" in the factory fog light spot???

I got mine at Pepboys. They have two styles, the 3.5" light with blue ring and glass lens, normal price is 39.99. Then they have a bigger 5.5 " light that has 7 LED colors, for 59.99. Both use H3 bulbs which you can get the HID kit off of Ebay for around 40 bucks from Hong Kong if you are willing to wait. I use the same HID kit for my headlights, been 7 months, no flicker, no spotting, no problems:)

The ones in the link form Ebay didn't say anything about the LED ring?

I just checked fit of the 3.5" They fit. You may need to do some minor trimming, or remove the mounting hardware, put it in and then put it back on, but it is a tight fit, so no gaps or vibrations I would think.

[Robbomaz]

I don't know what to do next:( I am running out of projects. Any ideas?
Supercharger!!!!!!

[Marlin]

Supercharger!!!!!!

I saw Ldubs at Moab, looks sweet, but I was not impressed by the power difference. I talked to some of the gear heads at work, our engine just isn't made to handle too much boost, so I imagine a SC might get you an extra littl bit of uuumph, but for crawlin and playin in mud, I don't think it matters. For those with SC, no offense, but it just doesn't seem worth it at all.

Update**I messed around with the sheet metal a bit, after laying 3 pallets of sod, and building a skid plate for a VX member!!! Anyway, I learned a valuable lesson, I hate working with sheet metal. It is very artsy, and I am not artsy at all. Here is what I have so far. I think its gonna look sweet, there is gonna be a gap under the headlights, but eh....for a no experience metal worker, I consider this top notch. Still need to get square tubing and a bender, but I can wait on that. I drew in the driving lights, and I sticky taped my turn signal on one side to see how it looks. As far as I am concerned.............BAD ***!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The sheet metal is 22gauge, and I will weld in some 1/4" plate brackets to help keep its shape. I will put sheet metal over the top of the hitch as well to bridge the gap. It is pretty sturdy though. I would say by next weekend or so I will be done with that, minus the tubing.

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0350.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0353.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0349.jpg

[pbkid]

interesting...

you gonna fill in all that open space??

[tomdietrying]

That is looking sweet! Give us a shot from the side when you get a chance.
Peace.
Tom

[Marlin]

interesting...

you gonna fill in all that open space??

Thanks for the confidence Tom.
Jack, I do not know what I am doing with that space, here is what I envision, of course it will be all welded together and square, and painted flat black when I am done.

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/frontwithlightsdrawnon.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/sidewithlights.jpg

I wish I could get it to look like this, but the VX frame is a lot lower than the rodeo. This setup is similar to mine, only I used a square tube frame vice 3/16 plating. His weighs a ton, and is not as strong structurally. But it looks nice.
http://i355.photobucket.com/albums/r473/stien514/Isuzu/10.jpg

[JHarris1385]

holy sheet that looks good.

[pbkid]

lookin good chris...

is it going to be strong enough to stand on, and to jack the VX off of....

[Marlin]

lookin good chris...

is it going to be strong enough to stand on, and to jack the VX off of....

I do not intend to ever jack off my VX....couldn't help it :)

As far as the sheet metal goes, it does not go under the frame, so the square tubing will still be available. As far as standing on it...Maybe I can run some angle iron under the sheets? Hadn't thought of that, but I never stood on my bumper before? What exactly would you be reaching? Hmmm...gotta think about that, thanks Jack.

[pbkid]

I do not intend to ever jack off my VX....couldn't help it :)

As far as the sheet metal goes, it does not go under the frame, so the square tubing will still be available. As far as standing on it...Maybe I can run some angle iron under the sheets? Hadn't thought of that, but I never stood on my bumper before? What exactly would you be reaching? Hmmm...gotta think about that, thanks Jack.

sure... i've stood on mine to reach parts of my motor....jump on it when your stuck, to get more traction ;)
never hurts to have things sturdy...otherwise you wont be very happy when you want to use it that way :thumbup:

[Scott Harness]

I love the brain-storming going on with this project...ps and this site(family) in general!!

[Ldub]

I saw Ldubs at Moab, looks sweet, but I was not impressed by the power difference.

As I'm Running 33's, with stock gearing, you would expect to see what kind of power difference?...:_thinking

[JHarris1385]

Not to get away from the bumper but since you stopped a little on the power issue I will post another piece I was told.



If your keeping it naturally aspirated we have seen substantial gains from the basic mods of a free flowing exhaust system. We recommened a 2.5 inch mandrel bent system with Pacemaker brand headers/extractors. If your race class allows it I would not use any mufflers at all or if you have to then obviously use 2.5 inch straight through items.

On the intake side of things over here in Australia the factory airbox was very very restrictive to keep noise down for emissions. Remove the whole box if possible on your model and use a K and N pod filter.

Lastly, we would suggest the use of an aftermarket ecu such as our own WOLF V500. With the above bolt on mods and then some ecu remapping you will be very surprised at how the car transforms. In our experience the 6VD1/6VE1 engines were heavily restricted from factory so theres a lot of power to be had just by releasing the restrictions imposed by Isuzu.

Other things engineered by isuzu such as the ignition system seem to be very well done. We have seen well over 500kw at the wheels using the factory ignition with no type of amplification. The stock crank also showed no signs of cracking or any twisting at this power level also, but it was obviously balanced and prepped beforehand.

On the forced induction side of things then it first comes down to whether you want to supercharge or turbocharge. We have done both and had great power results but from our experience turbo charging is more beneficial. From a reliability, engineering and power potential point of view.

After that its just of matter of how much power you want to make. Theres still head work, pistons, rods etc for those people just wanting to make big numbers.

For your type of application a mildly powered responsive package is what you need. If forced induction is allowed in your race class then the most suited system would be a small turbocharged setup. This would give lightning response combined with decent top end power and no sign of lag. A small turbocharged 6VE1 drives like its a naturally aspirated 5 litre.

For the wolf V500 ecu, there are dealers already in USA who are familiar with the product.

[WormGod]

I saw Ldubs at Moab, looks sweet, but I was not impressed by the power difference. I talked to some of the gear heads at work, our engine just isn't made to handle too much boost, so I imagine a SC might get you an extra littl bit of uuumph, but for crawlin and playin in mud, I don't think it matters. For those with SC, no offense, but it just doesn't seem worth it at all.

No offense taken. Us S/C'd urban mall crawlers don't have all the offroad gear and are turning smaller meat, so the S/C is quite noticeable.

I am confused about something though. It is almost as though you see the S/C as being "too weak" for offroad activities, yet you are adding extra weight (ala this monster bumper) on top of your stock 3.5L? I would assume that, even offroad, the S/C would pitch in to help push/pull that weight, on top of what the stock 3.6L is already doing. *shrug*

[Marlin]

No offense taken. Us S/C'd urban mall crawlers don't have all the offroad gear and are turning smaller meat, so the S/C is quite noticeable.

I am confused about something though. It is almost as though you see the S/C as being "too weak" for offroad activities, yet you are adding extra weight (ala this monster bumper) on top of your stock 3.5L? I would assume that, even offroad, the S/C would pitch in to help push/pull that weight, on top of what the stock 3.6L is already doing. *shrug*

My reference point is Ldubs SC VX. We played in the sand at Moab, I would expect the SC VX to throw up some sand, and I am on just under 33s stock gearing as well. I kept up with him just fine with my NA Injen intake with K&N cone filter. I don't know what a S/C costs for the VX, but I would guess >$1K. Just doesn't seem worth it to me, but that is my opinion, I would much rather have lockers if I was gonna spend that much money. But once again, to each their own, hence my barbaric looking bumper:) Hopefully some new pics should be up this weekend, if I can get a hydraulic press with my cladding money, I can bend some tubing, and play with that project.
More to come...
Thanks for all the info, keep it coming.

[pbkid]

chris..another thing...

make sure you give some bracing backwards off of your 'stinger' to make sure if it gets some pressure from rocks or the rear end of a yukon :naughty: that it doesnt bend in and ruin the front end of your VX...

[Ldub]

My reference point is Ldubs SC VX. We played in the sand at Moab, I would expect the SC VX to throw up some sand, and I am on just under 33s stock gearing as well. I kept up with him just fine with my NA Injen intake with K&N cone filter. I don't know what a S/C costs for the VX, but I would guess >$1K. Just doesn't seem worth it to me, but that is my opinion, I would much rather have lockers if I was gonna spend that much money. But once again, to each their own, hence my barbaric looking bumper:)

Uhhhh, yeah, whatever you say there chief...:rolleyesg


http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/MOAB_09_guess_who_-_vrooom.jpg

If I'd have known you were tryin' to keep up, I woulda put my foot in it...
But then you would'v been buried, & I woulda had to dig you out...:laughing:

You definitely have the whole "function before form" thing goin' on there...nice.:_wrench:

[tom4bren]

Izzat the 'embarassing exhaust' everyone was talkin bout recently?

[WormGod]

My reference point is Ldubs SC VX. We played in the sand at Moab, I would expect the SC VX to throw up some sand, and I am on just under 33s stock gearing as well. I kept up with him just fine with my NA Injen intake with K&N cone filter. I don't know what a S/C costs for the VX, but I would guess >$1K. Just doesn't seem worth it to me, but that is my opinion, I would much rather have lockers if I was gonna spend that much money. But once again, to each their own, hence my barbaric looking bumper:) Hopefully some new pics should be up this weekend, if I can get a hydraulic press with my cladding money, I can bend some tubing, and play with that project.
More to come...
Thanks for all the info, keep it coming.

Fair enough. I would go with gears and lockers for your application. Boost ain't gonna be of much use crawling anyways. It's damn nice when you wanna make that fast lane pass at 65+mph though. ;)

Some advice though.... next time you wanna play with Dub, show him that it's the pedal on the RIGHT. :p

[Marlin]

Fair enough. I would go with gears and lockers for your application. Boost ain't gonna be of much use crawling anyways. It's damn nice when you wanna make that fast lane pass at 65+mph though. ;)

Some advice though.... next time you wanna play with Dub, show him that it's the pedal on the RIGHT. :p

Ha ha ha ha ha. At his age, he is lucky he is even allowed to drive...
Anyway, you being stuck on that ledge and throwing up sand does not count. Kodiak threw some sand there as well, and he is on street tires!!!
I was talking more about when we played in the dunes, and your (Ldub) VX was severely bogged down, and I thought you were going to have to back up or get snatched, and we all played in the same sand.
As for function before form, I take that as a compliment, a "birds of a feather thing" or "the pot calling the kettle black". :bgwb:

As for the power at 65mph, my VX rarely goes on the freeway, and if it does, it doesn't go fast...I do believe lockers may be my next project after the whole bumper thing is done. Probably just front locker, I am happy with the LSD rear end. We shall see. One thing at a time boys, one thing at a time.

[ZEUS]

I was talking more about when we played in the dunes, and your (Ldub) VX was severely bogged down, and I thought you were going to have to back up or get snatched, and we all played in the same sand.

Have you noticed how aggressive Ldub's tires are and that your's are fairly smooth? Have you realized different tires perform differently in different terrains? In other words, would you think the S/C was the greatest thing since breastmilk if you saw Ldub blow thru a mud hole you got stuck in?

[Marlin]

Well, my VX has never been stuck in or on anything that was due to a lack of power. Tires of any kind are breaking loose regardless of medium with what horsies we already have.
All I am saying is, for the thousands it would cost to SC my VX, the gain is just not worth it for a crawler or general purpose off roader. Maybe baja, or street would be different.

[Ldub]

As for function before form, I take that as a compliment, a "birds of a feather thing" or "the pot calling the kettle black". :bgwb:

In your dreams...maybe...:rolleyesg...:laughing:... :laughing:...:laughing:

[pbkid]

play nice guys....

he is just saying for his application.... 5 or 6k could be spent more efficiently....
LDUB is pulling A LOT of extra weight in his VX daily, and he also regularly pulls a trailer...so a SC for him makes more sence for his application...

[Marlin]

play nice guys....

he is just saying for his application.... 5 or 6k could be spent more efficiently....


5 or 6K, is that what it costs to S/C a VX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You could do an entire V8 swap for that kind of money!!!!!!!! I could SAS, locked front and rear and new gears for that much!!!!!!!!!

[WormGod]

5 or 6K, is that what it costs to S/C a VX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You could do an entire V8 swap for that kind of money!!!!!!!! I could SAS, locked front and rear and new gears for that much!!!!!!!!!

Hahahaha.... riiiight. Maybe the Russians would pay that, but not us. I got mine for just under $3k years and years ago. It's no $6k Kenny Bell, but it's a gem for it's rarity. Probably the only thing in my VX that I could sell for a profit right about now, heh. :p

[pbkid]

Hahahaha.... riiiight. Maybe the Russians would pay that, but not us. I got mine for just under $3k years and years ago. It's no $6k Kenny Bell, but it's a gem for it's rarity. Probably the only thing in my VX that I could sell for a profit right about now, heh. :p

and how much were all the other little parts you needed to get it to work properly?? (tuning, belts, wiring..etc) and that doesnt even include professional installation...

[Marlin]

Hahahaha.... riiiight. Maybe the Russians would pay that, but not us. I got mine for just under $3k years and years ago. It's no $6k Kenny Bell, but it's a gem for it's rarity. Probably the only thing in my VX that I could sell for a profit right about now, heh. :p

Plus install? Was it really worth it?! Did it go 3K dollars faster? I just can't imagine it being that much of a difference. Especially now, I could get another VX for what it would cost to get a S/C and parts...:)

[AlaskaVX]

With a S/C there is no need for lockers LOL :bwgy:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/medium/TROPHY.JPG


And yes, it feels $3000 faster, I love it, but for the big rocks.... lockers are the way to go.

[Marlin]

With a S/C there is no need for lockers LOL :bwgy:

And yes, it feels $3000 faster, I love it, but for the big rocks.... lockers are the way to go.

I thought you were working on an engine swap? Can't remember where I saw that. But it wouldn't be just 3K, it would be closer to 4 or 5 I would think, after all the other changes you gotta do...and what not? But I honestly have no idea.

[AlaskaVX]

Man I swear every time I post now thats the first response I get. Yes engine swap still in limbo, no garage, looking for a house, nothing I am interested in within my price range.

Engine swap costs more than the SCer unless you get a hell of a deal on a motor. I got the SCer kit for $2600 i think (Tones Christmas special) and had a shop install for $750, total <$3500 with shipping. Hard to find a V8 and fab/install for that price.

Stock on the 1/4 mile track I ran 16.5 and with the SCer I ran 15.2. curious what the N/A LS1 will do but I don't expect much/any faster.

[Marlin]

Man I swear every time I post now thats the first response I get. Yes engine swap still in limbo, no garage, looking for a house, nothing I am interested in within my price range.

Engine swap costs more than the SCer unless you get a hell of a deal on a motor. I got the SCer kit for $2600 i think (Tones Christmas special) and had a shop install for $750, total <$3500 with shipping. Hard to find a V8 and fab/install for that price.

Stock on the 1/4 mile track I ran 16.5 and with the SCer I ran 15.2. curious what the N/A LS1 will do but I don't expect much/any faster.

Gotta be faster than that, my stock 07 expedition does the 1/4 mile in a little over 16sec. It weighs close to 6000lbs.

:hj: but I started the thread...does that make it ok?

[Riff Raff]

.......looking for a house, nothing I am interested in within my price range.

I got the SCer kit for $2600 i think (Tones Christmas special) and had a shop install for $750, total <$3500 with shipping.

Stock on the 1/4 mile track I ran 16.5 and with the SCer I ran 15.2.


Holy Cow, $3,500 for a 1.3 second improvement in the 1/4 mile. That's a hell of a deal..............................NOT!!! You'd be better off to use that $3,500 towards the purchase of your future house; I'm sorry, IGLOO.

ZEUS--- Yes, you nailed it on the head of the pin-- having the appropriate tires for the appropriate terrain is key. The reason why MARLIN was so successful at MOAB over Ldub was because MARLIN has the infamous 44 lb lightweight Grabber AT2 tires which go anywhere in all conditions; including sand, and yes mud. The Grabber AT2 is a jack-of-all-trades tire and highly capable in mud with its cavernous 17/32nds tread depth, whereas the mud tires are only a master of one but are worthless everywhere else (oh yeah, I forgot M/T tires "look good" LOL, tsk tsk). Lesson learned, class dismissed.

MARLIN--- I concur the SC route is a total waste of time and money on the VX. The VX-SC seems to be more of a novelty and opens a can of worms for other periferal things to go wrong with its proven unreliability. If the factory Isuzu engineers thought a SC was a worthwhile feature for the VX, then they would have included it from the factory.

Finally (back on topic), your bumper project is coming along nicely. I really like the squared-off front bumper design. I think the rest of us are just waiting how you plan to "blend" the bumper project by filling up the empty void underneath the headlights, etc. I imagine the expanded-metal treatment will be coming soon. I continue to be blown away that all of this work is being performed in your frickin' driveway. Your neighbors must simply shake their heads in disbelief. Good job, keep it up.

[pbkid]

riff raff....once again you fail to see the application....
i hate to break it to you...but the 'infamous' grabber AT2 is not the best application for moab....may be for a person that doesnt understand rock crawling...but all-terrain tires are not exactly designed for rock crawling applications...
hence is why professional rock crawlers use a 'knobby' tire...like the Nitto Mud-grappler, or other tires with large 'knobs' for grabbing edges and pieces of rocks...
http://img.alibaba.com/photo/11566303/1999_Rock_Crawler_Buggy.jpg
wouldnt you think something designed for it... like this buggy ^^^ would use A/T's if so???


ZEUS--- Yes, you nailed it on the head of the pin-- having the appropriate tires for the appropriate terrain is key. The reason why MARLIN was so successful at MOAB over Ldub was because MARLIN has the infamous 44 lb lightweight Grabber AT2 tires which go anywhere in all conditions; including sand, and yes mud. The Grabber AT2 is a jack-of-all-trades tire and highly capable in mud with its cavernous 17/32nds tread depth, whereas the mud tires are only a master of one but are worthless everywhere else (oh yeah, I forgot M/T tires "look good" LOL, tsk tsk). Lesson learned, class dismissed.

[VX KAT]

ZEUS--- Yes, you nailed it on the head of the pin-- having the appropriate tires for the appropriate terrain is key. The reason why MARLIN was so successful at MOAB over Ldub was because MARLIN has the infamous 44 lb lightweight Grabber AT2 tires which go anywhere in all conditions; including sand, and yes mud. The Grabber AT2 is a jack-of-all-trades tire and highly capable in mud with its cavernous 17/32nds tread depth, whereas the mud tires are only a master of one but are worthless everywhere else (oh yeah, I forgot M/T tires "look good" LOL, tsk tsk). Lesson learned, class dismissed.

MARLIN--- I concur the SC route is a total waste of time and money on the VX. The VX-SC seems to be more of a novelty and opens a can of worms for other periferal things to go wrong with its proven unreliability. If the factory Isuzu engineers thought a SC was a worthwhile feature for the VX, then they would have included it from the factory.
OH NO, MR. BILL,... here we go again on the tires......:rollo2:.......remember, to each his/her own....:thumbup:

[Triathlete]

Actually, on slick rock (Moab) AT's do quite well. The tires on that buggy are not so good on the rocks. Those tires are probably the best you can get for strictly mud. Most that do use those swampers for other options end up taking a tire cutter to them. For rocks you'll find nothing better proven (in comp.) than the BFG Krawlers and the Maxxis Creepy Crawlers...both of which also do exceptionally well in Moab also!:bwgy: My biggest concern with nearly all AT's is the relatively weak sidewall. Big, sharp rocks around here tend to shred/cut/tear them which is not a fun time in my book.

[Scott Harness]

Holy Cow, $3,500 for a 1.3 second improvement in the 1/4 mile. That's a hell of a deal..............................NOT!!!

In normal life,I'll agree with you.In racing,1.3 seconds is an eternity.
In a longer race that 1.3 seconds turns into an 1/2 hour!
ps...Happy Birthday!!

[VX KAT]

I call Dibbs on your cladding if you sell it!

I was thinking that I asked about the front cladding first?


... if I can get a hydraulic press with my cladding money, I can bend some tubing, and play with that project.


I came upon this website tonight while searching another thread for a company that sells "remanufactured OEM" VX front & rear bumpers in case anybody still needs one. $287 +$85 shipping.
http://www.partsultimate.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=141005

[Riff Raff]

Actually, on slick rock (Moab) AT's do quite well. The tires on that buggy are not so good on the rocks. Those tires are probably the best you can get for strictly mud. Most that do use those swampers for other options end up taking a tire cutter to them. For rocks you'll find nothing better proven (in comp.) than the BFG Krawlers and the Maxxis Creepy Crawlers...both of which also do exceptionally well in Moab also!:bwgy: My biggest concern with nearly all AT's is the relatively weak sidewall. Big, sharp rocks around here tend to shred/cut/tear them which is not a fun time in my book.


TRIATHLETE--- I don't believe it Bill, that's the very first time you've ever actually agreed with me and paid me a compliment (was that a Birthday Present by chance?).;party: If I was a puppy dog, I'd be wagging my tail.:hat: For those who want A/T's with bullet-proof sidewalls can always get the heavier "E-Load Range" version which have the exact same puncture resistance as their M/T sister (regardless of tread pattern).

SCOTT HARNESS--- I haven't seen any sanctioned racing numbers on the doors of VX's lately, so I guess we're talking as you say "in normal life". Thank you for your very kind :bday: wishes, you made my day!!!

VX-KAT--- Fellow member "KeithVXlvr" has both front & rear of those aftermarket "clone" cladding pieces on his VX. I've personally seen them up close-- the "fit" is adequate, but they have a more "pebble/grainy texture" to them than the smooth OEM stock and don't match cosmetically for the discriminating VX owner.:noo:

MARLIN--- To you I sincerely apologize for the resulting:ot::hj:

We now return to our regularly scheduled program.:dan_ban:

[Robbomaz]

So how IS that bumper goin Marlin:bwgy:

[Marlin]

riff raff....once again you fail to see the application....
i hate to break it to you...but the 'infamous' grabber AT2 is not the best application for moab....may be for a person that doesnt understand rock crawling...but all-terrain tires are not exactly designed for rock crawling applications...
hence is why professional rock crawlers use a 'knobby' tire...like the Nitto Mud-grappler, or other tires with large 'knobs' for grabbing edges and pieces of rocks...

wouldnt you think something designed for it... like this buggy ^^^ would use A/T's if so???

I would have to disagree with you there Jack. I have watched various motosports, and most of the time, the new guys use the same thing as the old guys just because that is the way it has always been done, and I believe partially for looks. One day, a new guy shows up and stirs things up with a new design. Take a look at Monster trucks. They race and freestyle. Two totally different applications and almost all have the same "tractor" type mud tire. A few years ago a guy came on the scene with an AT type tread. He was a self sponsored truck. Blew them away in racing, and performed great in freestyle. Unfortunately, he broke some major parts and the truck disappeared for awhile, the cost of private ownership vs. corporate sponsor, once good jump and roll could cost you $50K.
I do think mud tires are great for the trail, certainly not for everyday driving, but AT tires will get you just about everywhere. As Riffraff said, a jack of all trades, but not really great at any one medium.

And Billy, I think you are exactly right about the tires at Moab. That buggy wouldn't look so cool with ATs. A huge disadvantage of the General AT2s: they are soft!! I was rotating the tires on the weekend, lots of gouges in them, and I just went and compared to my Procomps, which feel like rocks and do not feel soft at all. So that 44lbs a tire came at a sacrifice, but for daily driving, well worth it, hence my hunt to get some trail tires.
As for the bumper, I took some angle iron out last night, may weld it across the top and build little "towers" to weld it to on the outside. That would give me a point to stand on and keep the sheet metal in shape. Dunno yet.

[nfpgasmask]

Maybe it was size and lift, but all I have to say is my first year at Moab was with 245 BFG A/Ts and no lift, and my 2nd year was with 265 BFG M/Ts and a 2" lift. The M/Ts out performed the A/Ts like gang busters. And I have heard bad things about the BFG A/Ts before. Now that I have rolled with street tires, A/Ts and M/Ts, I can safely say that the M/Ts out perform everything else when it comes to traction on and off road. Snow, loose rocks, mud, slick rock, the M/Ts own over the A/Ts....but again, could be my lift and larger tire size helping too, I dunno...

I'm sure different brands of A/T and M/T compare differently. But in general, when talking about traction, I think a knobbier tire is going to perform better in 99% of off road applications, like PB said, I've never seen a full time rock crawler with A/Ts. That said, the VehiCROSS is NOT a rock crawler so I digress...

Bart

[Triathlete]

As far as LDUB in the sand...if I remember correctly DUB aired his tires down very little if any. I know Merlin aired his down conciderably. That makes a HUGE differance in sand and on the rocks. The two biggest things to improve traction off road are tire compound and how low you air your tires down. Most guys who do serious crawling run 4-8 PSI in their tires (with beadlocks). And the comp guys are not running the same tires you and I buy at the tire shop. They are running non-dot super soft rubber compounds (stickies).

Oh yea! We are not jacking the thread....just adding entertainment in between bumper updates!

[ZEUS]

Oh yea! We are not jacking the thread....just adding entertainment in between bumper updates!
That's a good way to look at it! I like that.
As little as I understand this bumper, I am curious to see the end result... I have to say tho, I hope you have a long way to go... because at this point, it just isn't fitting of a VX... just my opinion. But like you say, to each his own. I do, however, hope it turns out how you like it and how you want it to perform... keep it up.
:thumbup:

[rowhard]

As far as LDUB in the sand...if I remember correctly DUB aired his tires down very little if any.

He didn't at all. I remember asking him and he said he didn't believe in it what ever that means:confused:

[rowhard]

The reason why MARLIN was so successful at MOAB over Ldub was.....

Riff, I got news for you, the reason MARLIN was successful was he was a mad man. Remember the scene in the movie '30 Seconds over Tokyo' where the swabbies were coming out to push the B25 over the side and Van Johnson wouldn't give up, yep, that's was our MARLIN.:yeso:

[VCrossfan]

Riff, I got news for you, the reason MARLIN was successful was he was a mad man. Remember the scene in the movie '30 Seconds over Tokyo' where the swabbies were coming out to push the B25 over the side and Van Johnson wouldn't give up, yep, that's was our MARLIN.:yeso:

Not being there and only seeing pic's, Didn't Marlins VX arrive at Moab on a Trailer? If so you can sacrifice and pound it more knowing it will have a way home no matter what. But when you drive them door to door you have to be alittle cautious. Ldub we all know your the MAN! !

[Marlin]

Not being there and only seeing pic's, Didn't Marlins VX arrive at Moab on a Trailer? If so you can sacrifice and pound it more knowing it will have a way home no matter what. But when you drive them door to door you have to be alittle cautious. Ldub we all know your the MAN! !

Thats true...as for Ldub not airing down, that is cause the only way he could fit those monster tires on the VX was to run reverse seat deep dish wheels, which often have flush valve stems on the inside of the face of the rim...a major PITA for airing down and up...I had similar wheels on my Toyota long ago. It took an adapter to air up and down(Not a crawler, they were street tires, back when 17"s were considered big wheels). Definitely sucked. That is why he did not air down. He may or may not be the man, regardless of which, his VX still looks sweet.
As for me being crazy, nope, I very rarely spun tires, I think it was egg shell throttle control, and having never done it, I did what I thought was best vice doing what everyone else was doing.
I started playing hockey when I was 19, I was able to play equally as well with both hands as my lead, that was because I was doing what I wanted, vice what everyone tried to tell me.
Not sure if that makes sense, but that is the deal, oh and I pretended I was driving a Jeep.

[Marlin]

I am surprised that I catch so much **** for this bumper being ugly, when as a group, people call our vehicles ugly on a daily basis? Wow, a whole lot of hypocrits.....I am kind of disappointed. :bgwo: And compared to what other aftermarket VX bumper is mine ugly? Oh yeah, I forgot, I am the only one:_thinking

[VX1032]

Marlin, Most of us bought the VX because we like the lines of the VX. Yeah, we modify it to some degree for off road performance, or on road style, but no one has really changed the lines of the VX. Most people haven't done the custom bumper on the VX because to do an offroad bumper that meshes with the style of the VX is very very complicated.

Personally, I do not like the look of a square bumper on a vehicle that has no square lines. Billy is getting his custom bumper made so that the top half is still the plastic bumper so it flows into the sheet metal. Your bumper seems to not have a complete plan on how it meshes with the VX lines, so people thinks it looks ugly since it is in a complete contrast with the vehicle.

I think all understand that this is your first attempt at real fabrication on this scale. You have been open to a lot of suggestions for improvement. All good stuff. You are making the bumper for yourself, so it isn't gonna be for all of us, including myself. Course I said I wouldn't get a custom bumper until JoeD makes a replica of ours out of steel. I bought the VX for its lines, and I want to perserve as much of that as possible. You are going for a more purpose built bumper which you will take flack for just because the VX is owned by LOVE it people.

[VCrossfan]

Marlin: Hat's off for taking on the Front bumper project,,as far as I know no one has went to the lengths you have for a total fab'd front bumper. There's been winches, pushbars etc. only a finished project will tell, and if it suits you who cares. Fabing a total front could look very off-roadish but can you imagine a VX without factory Rear bumper/cladding off ;puke: I've had mine off, it isn't pretty. Remember if it doesn't suit you it can always be re-installed. Keep us posted

[rowhard]

As for me being crazy, nope, I very rarely spun tires, I think it was egg shell throttle control, .

Chris, unlike VCrossfan, I WAS there, and your fangs were hanging out on again and again. :bwgy:

[pbkid]

Not sure if that makes sense, but that is the deal, oh and I pretended I was driving a Jeep.

;puke2;

on the bumper:
keep it coming, i think it can be done...and can look bad@$$...

dont worry my friend... i will be following shortly after, only with the rear of the VX instead of the front...
even if everyone hates me for it- i will still do it, and be happy when my VX doesnt get tweaked from a fender bender...

[Triathlete]

But when you drive them door to door you have to be alittle cautious.

:laughy: :laughy: :laughy: :laughy: :laughy: :laughy: :laughy: :laughy: :laughy:
What does that mean?:bwgy:

[ZEUS]

It means, since you and Dub are a little cautious, you only laid it on it's side, instead of on it's lid! :)

[tom4bren]

"I am surprised that I catch so much **** for this bumper being ugly"

Don't worry. Don't listen to them - they haven't even figured out how much offset is proper or where to mount their full sized spare.:)

[Marlin]

"I am surprised that I catch so much **** for this bumper being ugly"

Don't worry. Don't listen to them - they haven't even figured out how much offset is proper or where to mount their full sized spare.:)

LOL, I consider the rear door mount very functional, while in Moab, I lost a bracket on the crossbar for the rack. Luckily I saw it fy off in my peripheral. Imagine what 80lbs of wheel and tire would do to a car if it came off on the road?! Our roof crossbars can handle the weight, barely, but I don't think that includes while bouncing around and jumping and what not. Better safe than sorry. No more worries. As for offset, that is another thing, my offset is close to factory so I can fit bigger tires...but I don't mind it either way, my expy has a huge offset, the tires stick out about 4" from the wheel well.

[pbkid]

no updates??? cmon... you know you are our current entertainment at work right??

[nfpgasmask]

Marlin, Most of us bought the VX because we like the lines of the VX. Yeah, we modify it to some degree for off road performance, or on road style, but no one has really changed the lines of the VX. Most people haven't done the custom bumper on the VX because to do an offroad bumper that meshes with the style of the VX is very very complicated.

Personally, I do not like the look of a square bumper on a vehicle that has no square lines. Billy is getting his custom bumper made so that the top half is still the plastic bumper so it flows into the sheet metal. Your bumper seems to not have a complete plan on how it meshes with the VX lines, so people thinks it looks ugly since it is in a complete contrast with the vehicle.

I think all understand that this is your first attempt at real fabrication on this scale. You have been open to a lot of suggestions for improvement. All good stuff. You are making the bumper for yourself, so it isn't gonna be for all of us, including myself. Course I said I wouldn't get a custom bumper until JoeD makes a replica of ours out of steel. I bought the VX for its lines, and I want to perserve as much of that as possible. You are going for a more purpose built bumper which you will take flack for just because the VX is owned by LOVE it people.

Well said.

Bart

[Ldub]

I am surprised that I catch so much **** for this bumper being ugly, when as a group, people call our vehicles ugly on a daily basis? Wow, a whole lot of hypocrits.....I am kind of disappointed. :bgwo: And compared to what other aftermarket VX bumper is mine ugly? Oh yeah, I forgot, I am the only one:_thinking

Uhhhh dude...a hypocrite is:
a person who pretends to have virtues, moral or religious beliefs, principles, etc., that he or she does not actually possess, esp. a person whose actions belie stated beliefs.

I think everyone here LIKES the way the VX looks...:thumbup:

I guess if that group of people you were referring to, that call the VX ugly, were to be secret admirers, that would make THEM hypocrites...:smilewink

And you're right again, your bumper is most definitely beyond compare!

[Ldub]

Thats true...as for Ldub not airing down, that is cause the only way he could fit those monster tires on the VX was to run reverse seat deep dish wheels, which often have flush valve stems on the inside of the face of the rim...a major PITA for airing down and up...

Ya got it about half right...I'm not sure what a "reverse seat deep dish wheel" is, but mine are one inch wider than stock, & pretty close to stock offset...just four inches larger in diameter...:smilewink

The reason I don't air down is primarily rim protection & secondarily because, as you mentioned, it's a PITA with those valve stems, which I chose on the basis of appearance, rather than necessity.
Back when I bought the 20's, I was running street tires & had no intention of taking the she devil off road.
Then the dirt bug bit, & the rest is history...:rolleyesg

[WormGod]

and how much were all the other little parts you needed to get it to work properly?? (tuning, belts, wiring..etc) and that doesnt even include professional installation...

Professional install? Hahahaha.... DO IT YOURSELF! Have garage, have shop experience, will do.

The only thing I had to buy post purchase was vacuum hosing. Man, must have broken my wallet by.... $3.

Just took my time doing it. An hour here and there after work for a couple of weeks, some support from members here, and it was good to go.

I would say aside from the S/C package, I put maybe an extra $15-$20 into it as well as some quality fun garage time. Hell, she is sitting on jackstands in my garage getting some "garage time" work done as we speak. ;)

[Marlin]

Ok, back to work here. Reverse seat deep dish refers to the reference point for the "face" of the rim, meaning that the face is very close to the outer edge of the wheel, meaning that tire must be mounted in reverse as far as putting it onto the machine goes. Deep dish is a street tire reference to the width and offset of the rim( that was almost 10yrs ago). Your rim face is almost all the way to the outside edge of the rim, therefore there is nowhere for the valve stem to go with reference to conventional rims.

Back to the bumper, I took up Jack's advice and decided that the bumper would not be fully functional if I could not stand on it, and that would make me a hypocrite (by normal def, not Ldub's). So I went and picked up some 16ga sheets, and 5 ft of 1" 14ga square tubing. I will cut the tubing into 4-6" lengths and weld them vertically on the top of the crossbar of my bumper to act as support towers. I need to bend the new sheet metal to fit, and then weld to the front of the cross bar, and to the towers. 16ga is pretty thick and gives very little over a 24" length when stepped on, but with a tower every 6" or so to support the weight, it will be good to go. I WILL FINISH THAT PART THIS WEEKEND!! As for filler, I don't know yet? I will see. As always, this is a work in progress, and I accept suggestions that do not involve starting over, putting the plastic back on, and they must be at my quickly advancing skill level. So standby for updates, the garage isn't getting epoxied until next week, so its on now.

[Triathlete]

Just DON'T use wood!:laughy::laughy::laughy::laughy:











*It's kind of an inside joke if you don't surf any other Zu sites...I know Marlin will be laughing*

[Marlin]

Just DON'T use wood!:laughy::laughy::laughy::laughy:











*It's kind of an inside joke if you don't surf any other Zu sites...I know Marlin will be laughing*

LOL, ultimately, I do believe that a 2x4 would do just fine for the "towers" that I am going to use. They actually would probably be better than metal, but I don't know of a good way to attach them without drilling more holes, thus weakening the steel.
They use wood in boats, Navy ships, trailers that hold gigantic construction machines, it would do just fine for holding up some 16ga sheet metal. God forbid we bring that up again...LOL.
Thanks for the laugh man:rotate:

[Ldub]

and that would make me a hypocrite (by normal def, not Ldub's).

My def came from this new thing that you may or may not have heard of...called a dictionary...:fyi:

[Ldub]

Just DON'T use wood!:laughy::laughy::laughy::laughy:


LOL, ultimately, I do believe that a 2x4 would do just fine for the "towers" that I am going to use. They actually would probably be better than metal, but I don't know of a good way to attach them without drilling more holes, thus weakening the steel.
They use wood in boats, Navy ships, trailers that hold gigantic construction machines, it would do just fine for holding up some 16ga sheet metal. God forbid we bring that up again...LOL.
Thanks for the laugh man:rotate:

No...wood is GOOD...:thumbup: You could use epoxy to fasten it, & then screw, or even nail your plates to it...:smack:

Just keep it away from open flames...:flame:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/redneckharley.jpg

[Marlin]

My def came from this new thing that you may or may not have heard of...called a dictionary...:fyi:

As we all know, there are words that have one definition per Webster, but mean something completely different by social usage.

That bike pic is what I posted up on the Zu forum...I would like to see him ride it around. Pretty close to Harley quality.

[Ldub]

That bike pic is what I posted up on the Zu forum...I would like to see him ride it around. Pretty close to Harley quality.

Yeah...but the SPLINTERS...:eek:

[Marlin]

Yeah...but the SPLINTERS...:eek:

Nothin that some 400 grit and some boy butter wouldn't solve...;)

[rowhard]

Pretty close to Harley quality. Nah, better, won't rust like those boat anchors from Milwaukee or where ever the heck there made today.

[Marlin]

Update************ I did get the new welder's mask that self darkens..worth every penny. On sale at Harbor Freight for 40 bucks. Anyway, I got the tower pieces cut and one side welded on. Here is where I am at, it is way too hot, and I sliced my leg open on the 16ga plate, which is around 3/32". That is one thick razor blade,didn't hurt at first, but now...it stings a bit :(. I will weld the other 2 on tomorrow, and bend some sheet metal again. Hopefully I can post something up for ya'll to really see. Still not sure about the gap, but eh, I am quite proud of myself. My welds today were a bit rough, but I managed to lay down a sweet bead about 3" long that was perfect!!! I am getting better fo sho.
I also added a pic to show the upgrade to 5/8" pins vice the original 3/8". This thing is cock diesel.

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0356.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0355.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0354.jpg

[pbkid]

getting there amigo...

whats with the upside down isuzu badging?? ive never noticed that before?

[Marlin]

getting there amigo...

whats with the upside down isuzu badging?? ive never noticed that before?

:smack: That way if I roll it, I can get one good picture with it right side up. I am optimistic about these things, I do need to take it off and get rid of the white background, I was just screwing around a few weeks ago and kind of forgot about it...

[Riff Raff]

whats with the upside down isuzu badging?? ive never noticed that before?

PEANUT BUTTER KID--- I like it and it's not upside-down. It's the "sister" company of Nissan, it clearly reads: NZNSI

[Marlin]

Alright, finally some more real progress, I at a crossroads right now, doing the 45 degree weld fit up is harder than I thought. On a good note, my measurements and cuts are perfect. I went to weld up the cross bar, and it was a perfect straight line!!! I discovered that my grill insert brackets are not straight, so in the pics, it may appear that the grill is crooked, that's cause it is. You can see the angle iron that goes across the center, I have a piece cut to go on top of it to fill in the hole, the enamel is drying right now. The crossbar and towers worked out great, I can walk on it, and it isn't going anywhere, I am catching slack on the planetisuzu site, they think I should use 3/8" plate for everything. Apparently they use their bumpers as rock plows. But seemings how mine is still a daily driver, not a trail pig, and if the front of the bumper is hitting rocks, then you can't climb it anyway, you will just dig a hole behind you, I am happy with it, and can always upgrade later. There is this magic machine called a "grinder". The perfect mistake fixer:)
I am waiting on paint to dry, but I am done for the day, unless I get crazy after taking the kids to the movies!!
Enjoy, and let the real flaming begin. :flame:

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0363.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0365.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0361.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0362.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0357.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0358.jpg

[Scott Harness]

Alright, I have caught so much excrement on the other forum, the sheet metal is going away and getting replaced with 1/4" steel plate. Looks like it is time to learn some more, and destroy some more tools in the process. Those guys are dicks on there, but probably right in the long run. They all drive trail trucks, and know how to do all this stuff, but are not tolerant of inferior ideas:)

When I'm on the trail,I try to not bash into stuff(trees,rocks,ect) I've done Moab five times and Barnswell Mt three times and barely have scratched cladding. I'm usually light on the skinny pedal. :bgwo:

[nfpgasmask]

OK Marlin, I have to say, definitely looking better. But I have to ask also, how do you plan to re-integrate the cladding? Or are you?

Bart

[vt_maverick]

I'm pretty sure he put the cladding up for sale...

[Marlin]

When I'm on the trail,I try to not bash into stuff(trees,rocks,ect) I've done Moab five times and Barnswell Mt three times and barely have scratched cladding. I'm usually light on the skinny pedal. :bgwo:

As an update, I did manage to gain a little over three inches on approach clearance!!! Also, since I have nothing in front of my tires, I can now walk up most obstacles with no fear of damage!!! Yippeee!!!

As far as the cladding, its never going back on, cause I sold it. :) I have no desire to have it back on, I like functionality, and with Jack's recommendation to make it step-on-able, it will be sweet.
I know not everyone will like it, and I understand why, but I am ok with that. I hate the VXs with street tires and the ones that are lowered, but eh, to each their own.

You guys will sheet when I get it painted flat forest green or maybe charcoal, never wax it again!!!! But that is a ways down the road, like next year sometime.

[VX1032]

if you don't want to hear what the planet board says, don't post updates there.

[Scott Harness]

As an update, I did manage to gain a little over three inches on approach clearance!!! Also, since I have nothing in front of my tires, I can now walk up most obstacles with no fear of damage!!! Yippeee!!!



That's cool!:supercool
Moab is so amazing because you have super traction and can drive up really steep stuff.
Barnwell Mt in east Texas is the trees and mud kind of place.I don't know if it's harder. You just have no traction. Obstacles aren't near as steep or big as Moab

[Riff Raff]

You guys will sheet when I get it painted flat forest green or maybe charcoal, never wax it again!!!! But that is a ways down the road, like next year sometime.

MARLIN--- You always impress me. Your bumper project is coming along nicely with a lot of intentional thought and planning. The really cool thing is this specific thread is a start-to-finish documentary, especially when comparing the very early postings to the most recent upgrades (quite an improvement).

As I mentioned in an earlier posting; since the front cladding is permanently gone (sold), most of us are just waiting to see how you are going to "blend" the front bumper design in with the empty void of space underneath the headlights, etc. Perhaps that is where the "expanded metal" treatment will be applied.

When you get ready to paint, maybe consider a "Bright Red" or better yet a combo of "Black-N-Red" (Red Bumper with Black Painted Expanded Metal grill inserts). It would look great with the Proton color and basically say, "Hey, here I come; get the hell outa' my way!!!" LOL.

[Marlin]

if you don't want to hear what the planet board says, don't post updates there.

You are right, but I do want to hear what they have to say, they just aren't too friendly about it. I rescind my previous comments about the Planet, my apologies.

[VX1032]

Marlin, I know you are taking as if they are not being too friendly, but they are really looking out for you. They just want to save you time and effort and money with their experience. How you take that advice is up to you, though not everyone is eloquent. You seem to be taking a lot of their advice and really considering some of it, which shows your strengths in learning a new trade. I just hate hearing your remarks, I know they are coming from your frustration at your hard work and their non-approval, but I would hate to see any long term bridges burned. Just remeber, a lot of planet members are VX owners too.

Keep up the work.

[Marlin]

I picked up some new steel yesterday, I got some 1/4" thick angle irons, some 1/8" plate, and some 1//4" plate. I will weld the angle iron on top of the crossbar, then weld the 1/8" plate on the top for the horizontal surface. To pretty it up, I am going back to the diamond deck, I can bend it easily and make it look nice. This thing will be heavy duty to say the least. I may also replace the front part of the skid plate, with some Naval ship deck plate. It is basically 1/8" thick expanded metal, but the ribs are 1" diameter. It holds thousands of pounds of motor and pumps on a ship. I have to think about it though. We shall see. The project will be on hold for a bit, the garage epoxy starts thursday. I am also buying that trailer I brought out to Moab. He is letting me have it for 1200 bucks, sweet!!!!! I just have to spend 400 to get new wheels and tires and get those junk Impala wheels off of it.

I will post up pics soon.

[Triathlete]

I am also buying that trailer I brought out to Moab. He is letting me have it for 1200 bucks, sweet!!!!! I just have to spend 400 to get new wheels and tires and get those junk Impala wheels off of it.

I will post up pics soon.

What? No more bling?:naughty:

[Marlin]

What? No more bling?:naughty:

Turns out I am not a big fan of changing tires in the snow...

[Marlin]

Weird, I have posted anything to the thread since the 11th, yet it says I posted this afternoon? It has done that a few times. But there is never a post?

Well, anyway, the garage should be done next weekend. I "back to black"ed my cladding today, took almost half a bottle, good stuff. Gotta see how long it lasts though.

I will be making some mods to the bumper, the sheet metal is coming off, angle iron going on, ,and I figured out how to fill the gap. Gasket rubber, similar to the rubber used for flexible mud flaps. It is easy to work with, will blend in, form fits, and if it gets hot during wheelin, I can easily take it off to give more air flow. bear with me ya'll, its getting there.

[tom4bren]

Maybe Boss Man put a sticky on it to try to keep you on track to getr done.

BTW, 4000 hits on this thread - Impressive.

[circmand]

Weird, I have posted anything to the thread since the 11th, yet it says I posted this afternoon? It has done that a few times. But there is never a post?

Well, anyway, the garage should be done next weekend. I "back to black"ed my cladding today, took almost half a bottle, good stuff. Gotta see how long it lasts though.

I will be making some mods to the bumper, the sheet metal is coming off, angle iron going on, ,and I figured out how to fill the gap. Gasket rubber, similar to the rubber used for flexible mud flaps. It is easy to work with, will blend in, form fits, and if it gets hot during wheelin, I can easily take it off to give more air flow. bear with me ya'll, its getting there.

you posted you were not a fan of changing tires in the snow or triathlete quoting you it is considering the quote as a new post

[CrnCnn]

maybe someone bumped it under the thread tools menu

[Marlin]

I did not fall off the planet, my garage will be back to functional this weekend and I look forward to making some real progress. Stand by to stand by.
I am really getting tired of the fast blink turn signals, I am considering wiring the side markers as permanent turn signals to put in series with the LED lights. That way I shouldn't need a resistor, and no more fast blink. I thought about putting the headlight top marker in the circuit as well. That means my turn signals would consist of the side markers, the new turn signals I bought, and the blue halo around the driving lights, and the headlight top markers. I think its gonna look sweet, I will post a video once its all done.
Stay tuned folks.

[Moncha]

... I am really getting tired of the fast blink turn signals, I am considering wiring the side markers as permanent turn signals to put in series with the LED lights. That way I shouldn't need a resistor, and no more fast blink. I thought about putting the headlight top marker in the circuit as well....


Make sure to watch your grounds, but you'll still need either a resistor or an electronic flasher unit. The corner (and or the horn markers) markers won't increase the load enough to make the OEM flasher work properly.

[Marlin]

Make sure to watch your grounds, but you'll still need either a resistor or an electronic flasher unit. The corner (and or the horn markers) markers won't increase the load enough to make the OEM flasher work properly.

Thanks, I need to check , but I think the turn signal bulb and side marker bulb are the same wattage? Not postive on that. I will figure it out. No worries, I am an electrician by trade:)

[Moncha]

I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express... The turn signal bulbs are 1156, the corner and horn bulbs are 194.

The 1156 = 2.10 amps and generally are around 27 watts

The 194 = 0.27 amps and are generally around 5 watts

I tried doing without the inline resistor and short of buying several different E-Flashers for trial and error (Some work, Some don't), I gave in and did the inline resistor anyway. If you do come up with a different solution, please share.

[pbkid]

I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express...

:_wtf:

[tom4bren]

I had completely forgotten that a similar project was discussed a couple of years ago (it never went anywhere).

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?threadid=10264

Anyway, I wanted to mention that iron pig offroad that is mentioned in that thread is in Fredericksburg, VA where I live. If anyone is still interested in dealing with them, I'm willing to let them use my VX for measurements and fit checks.

Tom

[Marlin]

I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express... The turn signal bulbs are 1156, the corner and horn bulbs are 194.

The 1156 = 2.10 amps and generally are around 27 watts

The 194 = 0.27 amps and are generally around 5 watts

I tried doing without the inline resistor and short of buying several different E-Flashers for trial and error (Some work, Some don't), I gave in and did the inline resistor anyway. If you do come up with a different solution, please share.

Good info, but I was talking about the side marker on the front fender bulb and the actual turn signal bulb. They are pretty close if not the same, I have been at work since 0600 Tuesday, so I have not had a chance to go out and look. Way too hard to look it up on the Sylvania website...:)

[Moncha]

The corner light, the front fender side marker, what ever you call it.. it's a 194 bulb.

This may help you along http://www.vehicross.info/modules.php?name=Content&file=viewarticle&id=5 . It's a piece I wrote up when I first changed the corner lights to flashing back in 2005.

[Marlin]

The corner light, the front fender side marker, what ever you call it.. it's a 194 bulb.

This may help you along http://www.vehicross.info/modules.php?name=Content&file=viewarticle&id=5 . It's a piece I wrote up when I first changed the corner lights to flashing back in 2005.

I actually used your write up to convert the side markers to turn signals...thanks Scott, it was a good how to.

On to the bumper, there will be some major changes tomorrow, my garage is finally done. I am taking the sheet metal off, as well as cutting off all the supports I welded on. Then I am beefing it up with some 3/8" thick angle iron on top and bottom of the tube. I will post up some pics when complete, as usual. I really need to get this done. No more excuses...I promise.

[Marlin]

Sorry it took so long, cutting and grinding 3/8" steel is no joke. Took a good two hours to cut and grind those three pieces. Measuring multiple times, steel is expensive, and you can't just sand it down.
So here is where I stand. I am on the 3rd coat of Rustoleum oil based enamel, it paints on almost like an epoxy, my labor intensive alternate to powder coating.

Here are a few pics of my options. I cut the irons on top, they will give me the angle for the front piece. The bottom prevents the tendency for the bumper to fold inward if being winched. The bottom can either be flat, even with the tubing, or I can flip it around and put another angle and wrap the sheet metal all the way under. That is probably the way I will go. Give it a more aerodynamic look, plus I will mount the new skid plate to match that angle, theoretically.
I also included a pic with the new lights, not mounted yet, but that is where they are going. Hmmm, still need to straighten out the grill insert, it is ziptied in place right now.

Enjoy!!

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0410.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0411.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0412.jpg

[Marlin]

For those of you that are super attentive to detail, the top pieces are different lengths. They are exactly 1" different which is too much coincidence. The center of the vehicle is not really the center with respect to the frame mounts for the bumper. I have no idea, everything else is centered, I marked a few spots to use as a reference, the hitch is dead center as related to the truck, but if you look at the crossbar, it is not centered. My only guess is that the frame itself is not centered by design, or maybe the bumper mounts are not centered. Frame isn't bent, clean Carfax except minor fender bender a few years ago(driver side fender is aftermarket) plus it is EXACTLY 1" difference. Oh well, it looks fine, you would probably not notice unless I pointed it out. Just thought you super fine comb detail people would appreciate it, it does make the engineering a bit harder since each piece has to be different vice making multiples of the same piece. The second pic is a bit more straight on so youcan see how the hitch is centered. The edited pic is not straight on but had a better reference for what I wanted to show.

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0410-1.jpg


http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0411.jpg

[tomdietrying]

It's coming along good. Keep up the good work.
Peace.
Tom

[Marlin]

Thanks to the advice that Orion gave me a few days ago...that would have been nice a few months ago, I am making significant progress. Here are a few pics. I will weld this weekend, under the ends of the top cross bar I will weld some 2" angle iron as supports between the two bars right above the frame rail mounts. This top bar solves the problem of making the bumper capable of being stepped on, fills a few more inches of that empty space, and allows me to put the fog lights in between two bars, no fear of stepping on them or whatever.

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0417.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0418.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0419.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0420.jpg
Sorry the pic is bad, house faces the west...bad afternoon shots. Get over it. :cooly:

[orion]

There you go! nothing more fun than bending metal :dance:

[Ldub]

I will weld this weekend, under the ends of the top cross bar I will weld some 2" angle iron as supports between the two bars right above the frame rail mounts.

May I suggest using round stock (tubing), rather than angle iron, for a finished product that has more visual appeal?

[Marlin]

Here is where I am now. I have the top tube welded on and the 3/8" thick angle irons at the outside. Now I can attach the front plate, once I get it bent. Ldub, I used the angle irons cause they were stronger, and it won't be visible once complete.
The driving lights fit perfect in between the tubes, should be done next weekend I hope, gotta add a few gussets, paint a few more coats, and voila, I will be done.

It is being painted right now, so I will post the final pics hopefully next weekend.

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0489.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0490.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0491.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0493.jpg

[Marlin]

Its getting there, I told ya I was going for the road armor look, and it is quickly heading in that direction. I should be able to finish the other side tomorrow, get it painted and mounted by say Fri, and wire up the lights sat, add some gussets and I will be done!!! Not sure how to fill in the gap, but it isn't near as big anymore. I am cutting the bottom rail tubing to a 45 degree angle and capping it. Then I just need to figure out how to mount my new skid plate, and all will be complete.
It is not as sleek as Orion's, but I said form the beginning I wanted the road armor look.

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0519.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0520.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0521.jpg

[nfpgasmask]

So you are just going to leave the front end and the area around the grill and lights all open like that???? :wtfy:

Bart

[Marlin]

So you are just going to leave the front end and the area around the grill and lights all open like that???? :wtfy:

Bart

I dunno yet, working on that, I may cut a sheet metal outline to fill in the holes...but at least admit that the actual bumper is heading in the direction that I said I was going to do!

http://www.roadarmor.com/site/ford/08-plus-sd.php

[Triathlete]

Looking MUCH better! Shouldn't be to hard to fill that top section. Use card board and bend it and cut it to make a templet. Then you can use a little thinner gauge steel. Cut it and bend it using the cardboard templet, a little more welding and presto!

[Ldub]

Looking MUCH better! Shouldn't be to hard to fill that top section. Use card board and bend it and cut it to make a templet. Then you can use a little thinner gauge steel. Cut it and bend it using the cardboard templet, a little more welding and presto!

Hell YEAH!...:thumbup:

Make it segmented, so it looks like scales (think rough fish)...or the Batmobile armor!
:thumbup:

[Marlin]

Hell YEAH!...:thumbup:

Make it segmented, so it looks like scales (think rough fish)...or the Batmobile armor!
:thumbup:

LOL, I think I am going to bedliner the face and top, and leave the bottom flat of course.
No scales. A rocket launcher would be cool though.

Billy, I think you are right, that is a bit artsy for me, but probably the route I will take. I also thought about using heavy rubber, like what mudflaps for semis are made out of, flexible, but stiff, easy to cut and shape, and easily removed.

[pbkid]

two things-
1. your isuzu emblem is upside down and its bothering me (its like hanging an american flag upside down, bad juju)
2. getting there bro... getting there...
ok, for example, between the headlight and the grill: why cant you build something with 2 gussets and fill in the face (to create a triangular angled back look) and do the same on the side between the headlight and the fender, except build 3 smaller angled pieces?

[Marlin]

two things-
1. your isuzu emblem is upside down and its bothering me (its like hanging an american flag upside down, bad juju)

LOL, I got that from the Planet guys. I do need to fix the background, but it is staying red and upside down. Gotta cut out all the extra tape. I have it that way so if I flip it one day, I can get one good pic, sort of a sense of humor to keep me from freaking out if it happens...:)


2. getting there bro... getting there...
ok, for example, between the headlight and the grill: why cant you build something with 2 gussets and fill in the face (to create a triangular angled back look) and do the same on the side between the headlight and the fender, except build 3 smaller angled pieces?

That is doable, i kept thinking it had to be attached to the bumper, I was thinkin maybe a brush guard type top, but your way would work as well. I am gonna have to look at that, I do have a lot of 1" square tubing I could use. I could weld it straight onto the fenders and the radiator frame....good idea Jack.

[Marlin]

Jack is this what you were thinkin, cause I think this is what I am going to do now...

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0519-1.jpg

[pbkid]

yup, ill try to work somethin up on 'microsoft paint' when i get home... but i think you get the idea....although i would DEFINATELY not loose the grill... it makes the front of the VX what it is...

ill try to explain more-
build 90degree gussets off of the bumper angled back towards the hood... then all you would have to do is cut a piece of metal to go over the gussets, and BOOM you have a full integrated look, and it slopes back to make it look 'integrated'... do the same as you have on the bumper only with 2 angles on the corner.
i wouldnt try to go between the grill and the bumper personally... i would just do the area between the light and the grill, which would also include the part below the light, until you reached the joint in the bumper, then it would turn to match the bumper along the corner and onto the fender.

[pbkid]

plus if you left the flat bumper underneath and in front of the grill then it will give you some step space... would WILL come in handy, i promise :) (i had an ARB on my toyota that i had before my VX and it had a step spot in front of the grill that was awesome to have)

[Marlin]

yup, ill try to work somethin up on 'microsoft paint' when i get home... but i think you get the idea....although i would DEFINATELY not loose the grill... it makes the front of the VX what it is...

ill try to explain more-
build 90degree gussets off of the bumper angled back towards the hood... then all you would have to do is cut a piece of metal to go over the gussets, and BOOM you have a full integrated look, and it slopes back to make it look 'integrated'... do the same as you have on the bumper only with 2 angles on the corner.
i wouldnt try to go between the grill and the bumper personally... i would just do the area between the light and the grill, which would also include the part below the light, until you reached the joint in the bumper, then it would turn to match the bumper along the corner and onto the fender.

Gotcha, I was trying to avoid connecting more to the bumper. The idea is that it is removable. Right now it weighs somewhere around 50lbs. The more I attach, the heavier and more awkward it gets. I will have to look at that, and the bar across the grill can be just the one under it, and maybe one at the top. I was thinking more along the structural lines.
Thanks for the inspiration though, I will post up pics when I am done...

[pbkid]

ya no problem lol.... cant wait to see what you come up with

[Triathlete]

I don't think you would want to connect it to the radiator supports...could cause some later maintainence nightmares. At the most you might at 10-20 pounds to the bumper by welding the "facia" to the bumper.

[VCrossfan]

Who's VX is this, I like the "Cladding Cage"

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/561/4tiptoehell2004016.jpg

[Ldub]

Who's VX is this, I like the "Cladding Cage"

Green Dragon aka Grampa Bob

[nfpgasmask]

I say all you guys who make a mockery of the super-model-gorgeous-face of the VehiCROSS are ALL WHACKED!

:p Bart

[Marlin]

I say all you guys who make a mockery of the super-model-gorgeous-face of the VehiCROSS are ALL WHACKED!

:p Bart

Turns out that I never really thought Cindy Crawford was all that attractive either...;)

[VCrossfan]

I say all you guys who make a mockery of the super-model-gorgeous-face of the VehiCROSS are ALL WHACKED!

:p Bart

G1 Bart...I look at Grampa Bob's fab'd a nonintrusive VX face saver...

And I remember reading up and seeing pic's on Grampa Bob, he was one of the early VX off-road fanatic's and put his VX through the off road test often..

Thx Ldub I knew you would know....

[pbkid]

I say all you guys who make a mockery of the super-model-gorgeous-face of the VehiCROSS are ALL WHACKED!

:p Bart
wooo hoo... thanks bart, i take that as somewhat of a compliment


Turns out that I never really thought Cindy Crawford was all that attractive either...;)

now your worrying me buddy...

[VX KAT]

Turns out that I never really thought Cindy Crawford was all that attractive either...;)

Well then now we know you must be really whacked!:laugho:

[nfpgasmask]

wooo hoo... thanks bart, i take that as somewhat of a compliment

What have you done, Jack? Last time I saw your VX all you had was some fender damage?


Well then now we know you must be really whacked!:laugho:

X2

Bart

[Triathlete]

Who's VX is this, I like the "Cladding Cage"


Yep, like Dub said, Grandpa Bobs...however it has been sold and I don't know who owns it now. The "cladding cage" is just a front bumper....the very first VX front bumper. Sorry Marlin, even if you would have beaten Orion ya still would have been #2!:bwgy:

But I have to say again your newest rendition of your bumper is far better looking than the original:thumbup:

[Marlin]

Got the other side done, cut 45s on the bottom rails, still gotta put a 5/8" bolts through the tubes as backup for the welds. I picked up some roll on bedliner to finish it up this weekend. Gotta wire up the new lights and figure out the mount for the new skid plate and I will be done for a while.

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Isuzu/IMGP0531.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Isuzu/IMGP0532.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Isuzu/IMGP0533.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Isuzu/IMGP0534.jpg

[Marlin]

The gap around the receiver will not be there for longg. I am getting one of the hitch mount license plate holders for my VX yellow carbon fiber license plate. Have faith....it is finally getting there...

[pbkid]

What have you done, Jack? Last time I saw your VX all you had was some fender damage?

Bart
nothing amigo... just saying that i have always wanted to change the front bumper on the vx...

[nfpgasmask]

nothing amigo... just saying that i have always wanted to change the front bumper on the vx...

Ahhhh, but the difference is you haven't!!! ;)

Bart

[LittleBeast]

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Isuzu/IMGP0534.jpg

It still looks like you almost have enough room to leave the stock bumper on and just have this outside of it. Even if you have to put lots of holes in the stock bumper and even cut part of it up, I still think that will be the easiest way to fill in the gaps between the new hefty bumper and the hood/lights/grill, but it really is coming along nicely, good job :thumbup:

[Marlin]

It still looks like you almost have enough room to leave the stock bumper on and just have this outside of it. Even if you have to put lots of holes in the stock bumper and even cut part of it up, I still think that will be the easiest way to fill in the gaps between the new hefty bumper and the hood/lights/grill, but it really is coming along nicely, good job :thumbup:

Maybe, but I sold the stock bumper already, and part of my goal was to get rid of the stock plastic. I know that some like it, and I would think Orion's design would be much better for that. I did think about what it would look like to cut out just the top to fill in the holes. I am considering ordering one of the aftermarket cladding pieces and mutilating that. I will just rhino line it, so I do not care if it doesn't match the VX OEM cladding exactly.

[JoFotoz]

YUP!...using the stock ( or aftermarket..) cladding to fill the 'gap' is the way to go ..IMO!


jo

[tom4bren]

YUP!...using the stock ( or aftermarket..) cladding to fill the 'gap' is the way to go ..IMO!

There's a 'ORW' joke in there somewhere - I'm workin on it.:)

[Marlin]

Well, I cut out light mounts, drilled holes for turn signals. I screwed up and cut the wrong size hole for lights, could have sworn they were 4.5", gotta figure something out now, I think that door seal trim will do the best, it will be flexible, good seal, and still give me room for fudge factor such as aiming and whatnot. I am in the process of putting the bedliner on, it actually goes on pretty good. At 30 bucks a quart, it better be nice.

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0535.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0536.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0537.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0538.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/Bumper%20project/IMGP0539.jpg

[nfpgasmask]

http://julian-black.com/images/cat_macros/never_be_unseen_macro.jpg

[snowtrooper1966]

Bart, you crack me up :laughing:

I see Jonny 5 or Wal-E when I look at the newest pix....

[Marlin]

Wait, it isn't staying gray, when its black it won't be so fugly...wait, you just have to trust me...I also forgot to mention, those pieces aren't mounted yet, they were just sitting on there, they sit a little further back, and once the lights are mounted, that gap around the foglights will be gone, so no more Johnny 5 look. Good reference though...maybe I should mount the turn signals at an angle above them to look like eyebrows.......:)

[snowtrooper1966]

You've gone this far, ya might as well make 'em eyebrows;)

[ZEUS]

You shall now be known as Marlinstein...

[pbkid]

ya, i was gonna say that the grey just doesnt fit... definately needs to be black..