Does anyone know of anyone that can fab this up?

[Moncha]

I want to "hang" my air compressor from the bolt that keeps the spare tire in the back door. I have a bracket that I designed but don't have the skills to make it up. Does anyone know someone that could. I looked at the emachineshop.com and it would cost somewhere around $500-$600 to have them do it.. Yeah right.. It doesn't need to be CNC'd just a flat 1/4 piece of steel bent at a 90deg and some holes put in... Look at my pics and see if you have any ideas..

Its 9" tall, 8" wide and 4.5" deep. The large hole at the top sits where the bolt holding the spare goes. The more advanced one has a recess that would fit into the hub of the spare wheel itself.

Simple Version -

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/3147/thumbs/3D_1.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/3147/3D_1.jpg) http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/3147/thumbs/3D_2.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/3147/3D_2.jpg) http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/3147/thumbs/3D_3.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/3147/3D_3.jpg)
More Advanced Version -

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/3147/thumbs/3D_4.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/3147/3D_4.jpg) http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/3147/thumbs/3D_5.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/3147/3D_5.jpg) http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/3147/thumbs/3D_6.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/3147/3D_6.jpg)

[IndianaVX]

does it HAVE to be steel, or could it be made of wood, with steel L brackets???
If it could be made of wood, I "wood" be happy to make it for you!
otherwise, i have a welder that could probably do it very cheaply.

[ZEUS]

I see what you're going for, Scott. Do you have the compressor already? If you like, you can PM me, and I can build this for you out of 8" wide, 1/8" thick steel... same stuff I used for my roof rack mount. I feel it would be a bit overkill, tho. I would weld the two flats together and add small gussets at the corners instead of trying to bend it. This design could also come to life in the form of an aluminum door kick plate and some light bracing. Much lighter and no welding. A couple of 2x4s and a clamp work as a makeshift brake for something like this. Strapping would make up the braces at the outside of the compressor. $50 max.

[Triathlete]

Look into your local 4x clubs/sites. They usually have a ton of garage fabbers. Or pretty much any 4x fab shop or welding shop. The latter would probably have enough scrap steel laying around to whip it up for pretty cheap. Or if you have any neighbors or co-workers that weld/fab...

This might help (http://frontrange4x4.com/forums/)

[Moncha]

Yep, I have the compressor (MV50) (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/6401) already. Here's what it would look like with everything mounted.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/3147/thumbs/all_parts.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/3147/all_parts.jpg)

I would like to go with a steel bracket as the compressor is actually pretty heavy and with shutting the door and other vibrations, I want it to last. I also want it to be of quality workmanship, so it looks good. I didn't know if maybe http://www.kilbyenterprises.com/ would do this kind of work.

Thanks to all that have replied so far.

[pbkid]

just an idea scott... but could you build it out of angle iron? and just have it cut at a local shop to fit?

talk to Mdywer, i know he has a shop in denver that will give you access to any metal working tools you like, for like $50....

i was talking to him about building a bumper for my VX at that shop and it was and still is possible i may do that...

[Triathlete]

Another option that would be light weight and could be done at home...fiberglass. Then it could be sanded and painted to match the Proton.

[Moncha]

Ok, jack off. Hee hee! I mean, thread jacking off. I didn't mean to stir up a big 'ol deal with Kilby, I was just unaware of that deal.

I'm looking to do my project in 1/8" to 3/16" steel as with the weight of the compressor on a cantilever, there will be vibrational stress at the joint (Welded or bent). It will also be used to hold the spare in place rather than the little circle of steel that is currently used. I don't want to use 45deg straps to hold the cantilever up as the bracket would have to be wider than the compressor. Although very pretty if it were made of brass, a simple steel bracket will suffice.

This is a descrete job so all the hoses will be hidden as well as the wiring and switch. The plastic spare cover will be back in place.

Thank you for all the suggestions and Riff, if you will convey my apologies to Kilby, I'd appreciate it.

This whole mess about Kilby was my fault as I really was referring to Tim Parker from SBC (http://www.streetboutiquecustoms.com/vx.html) and got cornfused. I was wondering if he would be able to fab something up since he had made the best window brackets.

[Ldub]

When I initially started the metal skid-plate project (do a forum search for: skid plate pottsville), I specifically inquired about the use of lightweight "aluminum"

They informed me that "aluminum" is way too soft of a metal and will easily gouge/tear/bend when off-roading; otherwise you'd see it being used, but "aluminum" just doesn't work because it's not durable enough for the rigors of off-road. :

Dude...which side of the coin you on...:_confused

In post 14 of this thread.. http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=15903&highlight=skid+plates you refer to Marilns ALUMINIUM belly pan as "nice", & go on to say that it's good that VX'rs have a choice other than Kilbys.


:_thinking...:_thinking...:_confused...:_thinking. ..:_thinking

[Riff Raff]

RiffRaff,
You talk a pretty mean talk. Why haven't purchased this total protection yet?
Peace.
Tom

Hi Tom--- Thanx for the recognition. Yup, the Kilby plates are absolutely next on my shopping list (before they get permanently discontinued). I just bought brand new wheels and put on brand new Grabber AT2's (ka-ching is right, big dolla, big dolla), so now I have to eat of few more bowls of ramen noodles and save up my pennies a bit longer. But, yeah-- the Kilby's are next without a doubt!!!

Moncha--- No harm, no foul. Yes, probably Mr. Parker at SBC would be an excellent source for your project. Please keep us posted as your project develops. Who knows, you might even start a trend of copy-cats following your lead.

Ldub--- :_confused

[pbkid]

scott- my sincere apologizes for further TJ'ing your thread....

i completely agree with riff raff, that for a serious offroader, the kilby plates are the best of the best, i am sure that you could beat the living *&$# out of em and bash as hard as you possibly could and they would hold up to the abuse... and really $800 for a serious belly pan like that is just about the right price to be honest... its just not for some of us VX'ers because even though we like to fantasize that we offroad, we really dont spend that much time offroading, we just like to talk a big game ;)

and as far as an alternative, i had a friend/shop build me a set of plates for $250... they are definately not as strong as the kilby plates, and i would not say that they would last for 10 years if i went to moab 5 times a year.... but they work well for my small adventures here in colorado and once a year to moab.... although mine are not plates, they are skid bars-
they have 5@1 1/2 steel bars protecting from the radiator to the first x-member (1st axle)
then the have 4@1 1/2 steel bars protecting from the 1st axle to the x-case cross member...
so basically they protect- engine oil pan, tranny oil pans, front half of x-case, steering...

oh, and i have the trooper x-case skid to keep the x-case in one piece...

i know there was a picture from this year in moab where you can see the full skid bars.... but they were taken by someone else and i cant remember who, so i cant find em (maybe cece and gill?)

[tom4bren]

Scott,

I still have my donut & the mounting hardware. I'll check with 'welder guy' & see what he thinks. Hope to have some news for you tomorrow.

Tom

BTW, what are the dimentions of the shelf portion?

[Moncha]

I may have a source for a one off, I wouldn't want to overload him if there were multiples of this made up.

The back is 9" tall by 7" wide and the "shelf" is 8" wide by 4.5" deep. I have an AutoCAD file for it if that helps anyone.

[tom4bren]

I'll dumpster dive the scrap bin before I talk to him & see if there's a piece that size already bent. If I can, I'll just get him to mount the spare plate I have to the upright on the shelf. If you don't like what I come up with, we'll just auction it off for a site donation.

[ZEUS]

Oh, I didn't realize you were trying to maintain the use of a spare holder. Still, the offer stands. I drafted up a quick example of what I could do to meet your needs...
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/KB08.jpg
It might be a good idea to affix the OEM wheel retainer to the new mount with some gasket maker, if the compressor dimensions allow for clearance at the gate cover. You may also have the option of mounting the spare in typical fashion and then mounting the compressor on top of that with a wingnut for easy removal... maybe.

I'm looking to do my project in 1/8" to 3/16" steel as with the weight of the compressor on a cantilever, there will be vibrational stress at the joint (Welded or bent). It will also be used to hold the spare in place rather than the little circle of steel that is currently used. I don't want to use 45deg straps to hold the cantilever up as the bracket would have to be wider than the compressor. Although very pretty if it were made of brass, a simple steel bracket will suffice.

This is a descrete job so all the hoses will be hidden as well as the wiring and switch. The plastic spare cover will be back in place.

[Moncha]

Oh, yes. I have to maintain the OE look.. The advanced plan I have incorporates the "hub disk" so the spare sits properly.

Here's a .dxf file that can be imported if anyone wants it.

[tom4bren]

'Jack on

"Here's a .dxf file that can be imported if anyone wants it."

No thanks. Everyone here knows that I'm .dxf challenged.

'Jack off

[ZEUS]

Oh, I was thinking of putting the hub disk on the back side of the mount so that it mates with the spare as it does in stock form. It would be hidden that way tho. I think having just a bent plate or 2 welded flat pieces would vibrate really badly without some sort of gusseting or bracing. I saw that the AC is 10.25 lbs and the 1/8" plate could hold that no problem but I think without any bracing between the two faces it will vibrate too much. Just my thoughts. It would be cool to integrate a hose storage method into the bracket so the hose could circle the AC along the inner circumference of the rim also!

[Moncha]

I use a coiled hose and that would store easily w/o "wrapping"

Here some text added to the pic to explain better

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/3147/3D_4a.jpg

[ZEUS]

I use a coiled hose and that would store easily w/o "wrapping"
OK, as long as it's yellow. :)

[Moncha]

it is!

[nfpgasmask]

Scott, are you trying to do something like this:

http://www.nofuture.com/myvx/mods/tailgate.jpg

Are you saying that the tank you are using does not have/come with a bracket made for it? I just removed the spare tire mounting and used the existing hole plus drilled a couple extra and mounted my 10lb tank bracket right in. Fits perfectly, I just had to shave off the padlock loop and trim the inside of the trim where those thin raised areas are.

If you have no bracket, maybe some QuickFist clamps could hold your tank?
http://www.expeditionexchange.com/quickfist/quickfist004%20021.jpg

Bart

[Moncha]

You're gonna have to read the first post.. I have no tank, I'm gonna use my MV50 Compressor (It works fast enough for me) and I still want to keep my spare in it's original place.

[nfpgasmask]

You're gonna have to read the first post.. I have no tank, I'm gonna use my MV50 Compressor (It works fast enough for me) and I still want to keep my spare in it's original place.

Ok,yeah, I guess I just misread it. I thought you meant in place of the spare. Sorry.

Bart

[Moncha]

I love the ideas though. Goes to show that if you want to brainstorm, this is the place!

[SBC]

Yes..............I could make this!
I dont stock that size of steel which means i gotta buy a whole length to make one mount, then im left with what ever isnt used :_huh: $$$$$$$

[Triathlete]

Scott, you can also lighten up the mount by drilling several 1inch holes in the plates....it will also assist with cooling of the compressor. I am keeping an eye on this thread and may mimic it as I have the same compressor.:thumbup:

????? Will the hose reach the front tires with it mounted there or have you replaced the hose with a longer one?

[workmeistr]

Hey, Tim. I did my window brackets a few weeks ago and I thank you for the bits. I did some door sound deadening with RAAM Mat and I will post pictures in another thread, I just wanted to thank you here for your product. Take care.

[tom4bren]

There's a little bit of Tim in most of our VX's now.:)

[Moncha]

Yes..............I could make this!
I dont stock that size of steel which means i gotta buy a whole length to make one mount, then im left with what ever isnt used :_huh: $$$$$$$

Are you talking about thickness or other?


Scott, you can also lighten up the mount by drilling several 1inch holes in the plates....it will also assist with cooling of the compressor. I am keeping an eye on this thread and may mimic it as I have the same compressor.:thumbup:

????? Will the hose reach the front tires with it mounted there or have you replaced the hose with a longer one?

The hose I have that came with the pump reaches, But I'll probably fins a different one. I need some bulkhead mounted speed connector and a real chuck rather than the Mickey Mouse screw on one that came with.

I'm shooting for the ability of using the compressor without having to remove the spare tire or the cover thus, it will be wired, switched, protected and have a hose system that would blend in seamlessly.

[Triathlete]

Sounds cool Scott...I know you will take lots of pics of the process. Interested in how you will be switching it. Just leave the current switch on and then place another switch in line? Have you looked at where you will be powering it from? Keep in mind that these draw a lot of power and will blow the fuses to anything you tap into....so you may have to run a dedicated line.

[SBC]

Are you talking about thickness or other?



The hose I have that came with the pump reaches, But I'll probably fins a different one. I need some bulkhead mounted speed connector and a real chuck rather than the Mickey Mouse screw on one that came with.

I'm shooting for the ability of using the compressor without having to remove the spare tire or the cover thus, it will be wired, switched, protected and have a hose system that would blend in seamlessly.

9" Tall 8" Wide I Stock 3/16" in 6" Wide.....The width on the upright bracket could only be 6" Wide with some fancy gusset fabin at the bottom and be plenty strong.

[Ldub]

9" Tall 8" Wide I Stock 3/16" in 6" Wide.....The width on the upright bracket could only be 6" Wide with some fancy gusset fabin at the bottom and be plenty strong.

Tim, I' not a welder/fabricator by trade, but I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night...:rolleyesg

How about welding two pieces of four inch stock together & grinding smooth, to make an eight inch wide piece? Or would that be prone to warp?

Just thinkin' out loud...:_thinking

[Riff Raff]

Back on the original idea by ZEUS using a "Door Kick Plate" as raw material, I was able to find the following info:

Source: www.WRhardware.com
Telephone: 1-800-225-2517

Pre-Cut sizes of Door Kick Plate available:

8" x 26"
10" x 26"
12" x 28"
14" x 28"
16" x 28"
18" x 28"
22" x 28"
24" x 28"

Of special note, this particular company does offer "custom sizing" available by telephone; and will custom cut and sell the exact size Kick Plate needed from raw stock, thereby eliminating waste and reducing cost. This source is definately worth further investigation.:yeso:

[Moncha]

Source: www.WRhardware.com
Telephone: 1-800-225-2517



Even outside of this topic, great find!

[tom4bren]

Scott,

Success. I found a piece 1/8' aluminum in the scrap bin that's already bent.

If the 9" height is not critical and you could live with 8" then I can actually get 2 out of this piece. If 9" is critical, I can only get 1.

Guidance?

Tom

BTW, it already has a nice brushed finish (as long as I don't mess it up during the cuts)!!! May wanna contact the magnabra guy to see if you can get some of that edge guard stuff he uses - it'd give it a really finished look.

[Moncha]

Wow! You guys are too much! I have a source (came anonymously) but, like Billy said, he has a compressor also so, we may end up making more than just the one for me.

Hold onto that thought....

[tom4bren]

I'll try to cut 2 this weekend & leave them 'rough' finished for further mods. If anyone is interested after they see yours, you can just send them one in exchange for a site donation:). They'll have to supply their own spare donut mounting plate tho since I only have 1.

[ZEUS]

Automotive door edging works great to clean up those edges - cheap too.

[Moncha]

Here's one of my favorite email forwards:

I don't care if you lick windows,
take the special bus or occasionally pee on yourself. (Been there, done that)
You hang in there, sunshine - you're friggin' special.
Every sixty seconds you spend angry, upset or mad,
is a full minute of happiness you'll never get back.

Today's Message of the Day is:
Life is short, Break the rules, Forgive quickly, Kiss slowly, Love truly,
Laugh uncontrollably, And never regret anything that made you smile.

Life may not be the party we hoped for,
but while we're here, we should dance.

[pbkid]

fix for this problem is to run a relay so that it only pulls a few mA off the system... most of the power is ran off your battery, but is switched by an external source (switch, ignition, what ever you want)

Sounds cool Scott...I know you will take lots of pics of the process. Interested in how you will be switching it. Just leave the current switch on and then place another switch in line? Have you looked at where you will be powering it from? Keep in mind that these draw a lot of power and will blow the fuses to anything you tap into....so you may have to run a dedicated line.

[tom4bren]

Moncha,

Any suggested changes before I make the cuts?


http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/Moncha_Bracket_2_.jpg
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/Moncha_Bracket_1_.jpg
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/Moncha_Bracket_3_.jpg

[don moore]

if he needs 9 inches ..just make the bolt hole 1 inch higher

[tom4bren]

if he needs 9 inches ..just make the bolt hole 1 inch higher

I'm sayin:

That could work & still leave room for about 4 bolts to connect the ring to the bracket. It just don't look as 'finished'. I can get 2 out of this piece of scrap so if he wants, I can do 1 each.

I'm thinkin:

keep it clean Tom ... keep it clean

[Moncha]

Tom - Looks good, I say cut it as is. Don't put holes as they can go in later..

[tom4bren]

I'll only drill holes to mount the ring.

[Moncha]

Very cool. Thank you!

[tom4bren]

Sorry Scott, I haven't gotten to this yet. I'm trying to get home early enough one evening to get'r done.

[tom4bren]

Dang - I can't believe I forgot all about this, sorry. I tripped over it in the garage yesterday. Are you still wanting to get this done Scott?

[Moncha]

For me, no. But if someone else wants what you got, they are welcome by me.. I've got to get this done on my end as well. Got to have it done before Moab!

Thank you Tom!!

[tom4bren]

Hey Boss Man.

I thought I'd finished this up last Friday till I tried a fit check. It appears that the OEM donut bracket needs to be offset from the back of the plate or it won't engage the hub on the spare properly. I'll hit Lowes on the way home & pick up some stand-offs to see if I can't getr done this week.

Not sure if you'd gotten that far to experience that problem.

Tom

[Moncha]

I've been kind put on hold for a while since I buggard my knee so, I've not been able to get to this. It'll be a couple of weeks before I can get to it in full. I'll try to get at parts of it here soon as I'm gonna have to have mine ready and tested before Moab as I don't want that to be the testbed.

[RickOKC]

(Dang... I'm 7 months late in joining the website.)

A sheet metal shop is a good source for things like what was shown in the original post. I worked (in the office) for one several years ago and we wouldn't have hesitated to knock out an item like this. Our primary business was duct work, but we never said "no" to anything.

[tom4bren]

Scott,

Done.

I'll send it your way. The only part I'm not happy with is the large hole I hogged out to access the spare tire mounting bolt. It's cut by hand so it's pretty ugly (fully functional ... just ugly). It looks like Handito chewed on it.

Use it - sell it - give it away.

Tom


http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_0012_.jpg

[Moncha]

Thanks Tom! We'll definitely make good use of it.

[tom4bren]

Scott,

Mailed yesterday but not priority. Start looking for it around the middle of next week.

BTW, after I boxed it all up I started thinking that I should've tapped the holes in the aluminum bracket for mounting the donut plate instead of using nuts (would've been a cleaner product). If you ever decide that it's worth doing, lemme know.

Tom

[handeeman]

Tom4Bren

"Scott,

Done.

I'll send it your way. The only part I'm not happy with is the large hole I hogged out to access the spare tire mounting bolt. It's cut by hand so it's pretty ugly (fully functional ... just ugly). It looks like Handito chewed on it.

Use it - sell it - give it away.

Tom"

I resent that remark...as I've gotten older I'm much more able to chew things pretty smooth. I will admit tho, after my last family photo, the wife did say I ought to consider having my tooth whitened.