Recovery /snatch straps 101...to use Billy's words....

[VX KAT]

While picking out some ratchet straps for our trailer, thought I'd get a snatch strap for myself before Moab. Need some help making sense of all this info on recovery straps, I've also seen them called snatch straps. Searched and read some threads, then searched on internet. Trying to figure out what the ones are that most of you have on the front when you're off-roading.

I just don't know the details of what I'm lookin' for? :_confused All I see is a short piece hanging out the front, is that actually a 1' or 2' length or is it much longer but is wrapped up and secured somewhere out of site? :_thinking

Read a true snatch strap has some stretch to it, ? whereas a tow or recovery strap does not. ??
Safe working load vs. break strength?

I know NOT to get anything with hooks.

Billy recommend getting "Clevis shackles", 3/4" fit good.

I've seen a few described in posts:

PK uses one -Safe Working Load of 17,600 lbs
Billy has a few 20,000 lb and a 30,000 lb

Can you all enlighten me on this subject with your recommendations? :thanx:

[JAMAS]

Read through here, not sure if it is any help.

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=17064&highlight=rescue

[VX KAT]

Read through here, not sure if it is any help.

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=17064&highlight=rescue
Thanks, that's the thread where I got most of the info I quoted. It was most helpful!

[rowhard]

Billy recommend getting "Clevis shackles", 3/4" fit good.



Who needs Clevis shackles if you have one of these:yesy:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/199.JPG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13951)

Just kidding, You need the clevis shackles for the rear

[nfpgasmask]

This is a Clevis:
http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/318029_lg.jpg

Usually, they are attached to the bumper with a Clevis mount welded/bolted in place:
http://www.okoffroad.com/gifs/stuff/clevis-mount-1.jpg

Then there is a regular tow strap. This is all you will need to Moab, imo. Some have hooks, some don't, some are better than others.
http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/331796_lg.jpg

I hear "Super Yanker" makes a really nice tow strap. Looks like this:
http://www.ok4wd.com/images/product/1100/images/mp_super_yanker.jpg

Then you level up with a winch. I'm putting one on my Trooper:
http://www.boulderbars.com/images/Warn/Warn_M8000_lg.gif

This is one type "snatch block":
http://store.4wheelingplus.com/images/snatch-block.jpg

Which is used for pulling people out like this:
http://www.4x4wire.com/reviews/pullpal00/angle_pull.gif

I've never used a snatch block or snatch line, but I believe that is the purpose.

For Moab, a tow strap is enough for the trails you will likely do.

HTH,

Bart

[crotchrocket]

i have one of these, works great!

http://www.devon4x4.com/products_a/p18c49/0/arb-snatch-strap-8000-kg.html

and one of these
http://www.devon4x4.com/products_a/p41c49/0/5m-nylon-tow-rope-with-re0enforced-eyes.html


Do you need a snatch strap???? if so make sure you all know how to use one properly!!

[nfpgasmask]

Do you need a snatch strap???? if so make sure you all know how to use one properly!!

Yeah, definitely. People get hurt/killed all the time with careless/improper recovery techniques.

Bart

[PK]

The photo of the clevis shackle that Bart posted, is also known as a bow shackle down under.
They are the best because they -
Are made from higher tensile steel than a normal shackle, so are stronger for the same size.
Give more room for the strap to go through, and do less damage to the strap.

I always use a snatch strap, even for towing on the road.
You just adjust the length of it to suit.
It takes all of the jerking out of the towing connection that occurs when a normal strap goes slack and then tight again.

Just my preference though - others will have different opinions and experiences.

Bart's explanation of a snatch block in use is good.

PK

[Hiredgoon]

We use shackles all the time in theatrical rigging, which is what I do for a living. You have to look for ones that actually have a rating or safe working load stamped onto the shackle--they sell cheap ones at some hardware stores that have no actual rating, and aren't tested or certified to be any stronger than a dog-clip.

The reason you want something with a high safe working load is that the dynamic load on them will be considerably greater than the weight of the actual vehicle. The safe working load is generally 5x the failing load (depending on your country's standards) but it's generally not a good idea to exceed the SWL where it can be reasonably calculated.

As a rule your rigging is only as strong as the weakest part of the system, and you really don't want the weakest point to cause a pound of metal to come flying at you as though it was fired from a giant slingshot; which is what you are essentially creating when towing someone/thing. That's the main reason not to use anything with a hook on it, is that there's no positive closure on the fastener, and therefore no guarantee that it will stay where you hook it. A hook on the vehicle is more safe, since if the tow rope becomes unhooked, the hook itself--that is, the piece of metal--is much less likely to come flying at you. Also, stay away from quick-links, if they become distorted under strain they're almost impossible to open/close.

Your best bet, however, is to stick with webbing/strapping (rather than rope) and shackles (rather than hooks) even though they are a little less convenient. It's also important not to store the strap in the elements (for example on your roof rack) as exposure to moisture, and sunlight will cause them to become more brittle over time, and I've seen them snap under load. You also want to be careful about where your soft goods (strap) contacts any metal such as rubbing on the frame (or even using something like an aircraft cable or wire rope) will saw through them.

[AlaskaVX]

No need for a snatch block unless you are using a winch. The only time I have had to use one was to "double the power" of my winch when my brothers Toyota was in thick mud up to the doors. To do that you just hook up a strap to the vehicle needing recovery and attach the snatch block to it, then run the winch from your vehicle to the snatch block, then back to winching vehicle.

As for what you need in MOAB.... probobly just a cheap 10' and 25' strap that have loops at the ends and 2 shackles. Stretchy straps are nice since they don't give the big BANG/JERK when the strap tightens but the normal straps should be just fine.

[nfpgasmask]

As for what you need in MOAB.... probobly just a cheap 10' and 25' strap that have loops at the ends and 2 shackles. Stretchy straps are nice since they don't give the big BANG/JERK when the strap tightens but the normal straps should be just fine.

And not to keep your from spending money, but with all the folks that attend Moab, you will have a variety of options from fellow VXers if you get stuck, which is unlikely anyhow.

However, back in 08, Jim's Trooper got a little wedged and need to be yanked a tad to get out from this one difficult spot.
http://www.nofuture.com/lj/05-13-08/11.jpg

Bart

PS - Here is an example of how NOT to use a tow strap. :laughing:
http://www.nofuture.com/lj/05-13-08/06.jpg

[Triathlete]

A I just don't know the details of what I'm lookin' for? :_confused All I see is a short piece hanging out the front, is that actually a 1' or 2' length or is it much longer but is wrapped up and secured somewhere out of site? :_thinking

B Read a true snatch strap has some stretch to it, ? whereas a tow or recovery strap does not. ??
Safe working load vs. break strength?

C I know NOT to get anything with hooks.

D Billy recommend getting "Clevis shackles", 3/4" fit good.

I've seen a few described in posts:

E PK uses one -Safe Working Load of 17,600 lbs
Billy has a few 20,000 lb and a 30,000 lb

Can you all enlighten me on this subject with your recommendations? :thanx:

A...I think what you are refering to here are the few members that have winches (Todd, Swordy, Spazz...) Totally differant world than a tow strap. If you have the money and the knowhow to fab up a whinch mount, this is the desired set up for self recovery and recovery of others.

B...Either a snatch or tow strap will work just fine. Both have their advantage and disadvantages...but both are fine.

C...very correct...don't want any flying projectiles!

D...1/2 or 3/4 clevis's will work just fine.

E...The higher the load the stronger. Personally I'd go 20,000 minimum.

Any good 4X4 shop should have what you need and be able to steer you in the right direction.
Hope that helps. Any other questions, just ask.:bwgy:

[MSHardeman]

HEY, that's me playing tug of war with everyone on the other end of the tow strap.:p

Bart, that might not be the best way to use a strap, but from what I remember it eventually worked, and I didn't (really) run over anyone when the VX finally shot up over the ledge I was stuck on.

Seriously, though, that's not really the best way to use a tow strap. Fine for me in the car, but dangerous as all get out for those on the other end for reasons mentioned above.

[VX crazy]

And not to keep your from spending money, but with all the folks that attend Moab, you will have a variety of options from fellow VXers if you get stuck, which is unlikely anyhow.

However, back in 08, Jim's Trooper got a little wedged and need to be yanked a tad to get out from this one difficult spot.
http://www.nofuture.com/lj/05-13-08/11.jpg

Bart

PS - Here is an example of how NOT to use a tow strap. :laughing:
http://www.nofuture.com/lj/05-13-08/06.jpg

ROFL....looking at these two pictures, I see all sorts of accidents waiting to happen! And the one photo of Mark, too funny.....heeeevvvvv hoooooo heeeeeevvvvv hooooo

[VX KAT]

Thanks all! :thanx: Really filled in my gaps. I knew it wasn't a winch, but wasn't sure why I only saw like 1 ft of strap hanging in front or back. (Like Rowhard's pic from Moab goin' up, has a short yellow strap on the back end showing. And I know I've seen several pics with them hanging on the front)

Going around these trails around here we're bound to end up in a bind (as mrtew can attest) & will need strapped, so we need to get a good one. I'll take it to Moab too.

Heard horror stories of the metal hooks, so knew to avoid them for sure. Turns out I looked around in the garage and found we have an older tow strap with hooks on each end....:eek: Time to replace that.

Thanks Bart for mentioning the Super Yanker, Dave thinks we should get that one, looks great.

Can you double your strap? And if so, do you gain any strength or wouldn't it still be the weakest link rating which would be the eye strap in that scenario (which is the original strength or break rating). Reason I ask is that I found this ARB beauty......need I say more? Isn't that a good enough reason to pick this one? :laugho:......but it's a winch extension strap/tow strap and doesn't stretch....and is 66' long....
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/winchExtensionStrap.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16608)

[don moore]

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/winchExtensionStrap.jpgohhhh.. it preaty purple also.....luvs KAT

[VX KAT]

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/winchExtensionStrap.jpgohhhh.. it preaty purple also.....luvs KAT
well, YEAH! one must have matching accessories!

[Triathlete]

Kat, from that pic I can tell you that strap is NOT 66 feet long (if it was it would be about the size of your spare tire when wound up like that). ARB is a very reputable name in off road and make nothing but top quality stuff so you can't go wrong with them. As far as doubling a strap...yes you can if you need a shorter strap for recovery. You don't gain or loose any strength. And even if it says it don't stretch it will to some degree...its just the nature of the material. Some will just have more elastic property than others depending on how they are made.

[ground hwg]

as your in The USA I would sugest that you get the clevises from Tractor Supply, Warn ar good but way over priced. also TS has some heavy duty that dont screw together. thet are just push through. and then secured together with a spring pin.
If your going for a winch. then i would recomend warn unless you want a hydralic in which case Milemarker. (im not sure if you can run these off the stearing pump on these vehicles or not). also synthetic line. it is almost 2x stronger than the steel cable for the same size and much easyer to work with. there are a few good outlets on Ebay for this.

[VX KAT]

We're picking a Viking kinetic recovery rope, 3/4" x 30' 19,000 lb. MBS (it's just like the Super Yanker except black with blue loops, made more sense than white to me).

Deciding between Crosby or Green Pin 3/4" shackles - 4.75 ton WLL (9,500 lb)
or would 5/8" Crosby 3 1/4 ton WLL (6,500 lb) be OK?...
(only reason is there's a great deal on ebay for 4 new Crosby 5/8" for $35, but won't do it if they're not strong enough)
I know Billy you said 3/4" OK.

Noticed VX has a hook in front and eyelet on rear corner.
Why the 2 different types?
Are they strong enough to use or have you all added / welded on other types of hooks or loops?

[ZEUS]

So Sue, you got the 3/4" Crosby D's, correct? I believe you are trying to put 2 D-rings up front, is that right? The D-mounts are going to attach to what? I'm thinking that part is still in the concept phase...?

[VX KAT]

So Sue, you got the 3/4" Crosby D's, correct? I believe you are trying to put 2 D-rings up front, is that right? The D-mounts are going to attach to what? I'm thinking that part is still in the concept phase...?

Exactly where I'm at now...Yes, got the 3/4" Crosbys. We're also need to do this on Dave's FJ, so we want to do both.

I just sent ya (and some others) an email (not PM) with several D mount options,...is there something up front to weld them to adequately or not? Does something have to be reinforced up there first?

[ZEUS]

Exactly where I'm at now...Yes, got the 3/4" Crosbys. We're also need to do this on Dave's FJ, so we want to do both.

I just sent ya (and some others) an email (not PM) with several D mount options,...is there something up front to weld them to adequately or not? Does something have to be reinforced up there first?EXACTLY! That's why I was asking those questions. Here's an idea for the VX (I'd be of no help regarding the FJ - maybe contact Jay Dunford thru the forum.) Tell me if you like this idea or not... the thin and flimsy tube bumper thingy behind the front cladding...
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/medium/air_horn_008.jpg
...could be replaced by a decent piece of square tube steel and bolted in its location, I believe. You could then tie in that stock vertical piece in front of it with a little effort. The bumper cladding would need a bit of a trim at the ventilation openings beside the license plate. Then tho the D-mounts could protrude thru those openings and you would otherwise have a stock appearing VX. Thru the process you could also choose to complicate things by incorporating a front hitch mount for a removable winch mount, a hook, a tow ball (which helps maneuvering trailers), and/or a flip-down license plate/front step... let me know if I confused you...

Anyway, I think figuring out what sort of mounting option you will have for the D-mounts should be done before picking out the mounts themselves. If you have to use round tubing then you would want the longer D-mounts, if you use the low-profile mounts you may not have enough room between the cladding and the D-rings. In any case, I would stay away from the 1/2" thick options and only look at the widest ones you can fit into the D-ring... lateral load precaution. I hope this helps you!

[Triathlete]

Or you could just chop the hell out of the front cladding and have a good fab shop/person build a custom bumper incorperating the mounts!:bwgy:

[VX KAT]

Thanks Justin & Billy-:thanx: http://www.smileyshut.com/smileys/new/Respect/respect-061.gif (http://www.smileyshut.com/Smileys/Smiley-Huts-Free-Respect-Smileys.html)
http://www.smileyshut.com/smileys/new/Respect/respect-063.gif (http://www.smileyshut.com/Smileys/Smiley-Huts-Free-Respect-Smileys.html)
One of my better traits has always been I know what I don't know & know when to ask before I fall off a cliff.......
Thanks for always grabbing me away from the cliff! After I get all the info, I'll give it to my off road shop so they can do it right .

Is that front hook strong enough or should I definitely plan on having at least one D-mount attached up front? I'm not going to do a Frankenbumper, or a Marlinstein http://www.smileyshut.com/smileys/new/Happy/happy-109.gif (http://www.smileyshut.com/Smileys/Smiley-Huts-Free-Happy-Smileys.html) or a front receiver....just one or two secure recovery points up front is all I'm after.
What have others done if you don't have a front receiver?

Dub said the back eyelet is only intended as a tie down for transport, so is there something strong enough in the BACK to weld a mount on?

Thanks for any & all input! http://www.mysmiley.net/imgs/smile/rolleye/rolleye0007.gif (http://www.mysmiley.net/free-character-smileys.php)

[Ldub]

Here's a little reading material to further confuse you Sue...:smilewink

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolling_(metalworking) ...:smack:

Since I've used the front hook to recover, & to be recovered...:mbrasd:
I'm thinking a rectangular base plate, with a clevis block welded to it, bolted to the frame in place of the stock hook, with the stoutest grade of metric hardware available, SHOULD be adaquate in most situations...thoughts?

That being said, I've used the stock transport tie down loop on the rear for recovery too, but have heard from those more experienced than I, that it's designed as a tie down for shipping only, & not up to the rigors of off road recovery.
That's why I only use my receiver hitch now, I know how built that is...:yesgray:

[crotchrocket]

as i'm sure you've seen before i use two D shackles on the stock recovery points and attach a bridle between them. It's more than sufficient. I have had a landrover discovery winching me out with another discovery, and a landcruiser as anchors and all 3 were moving along when id wouldn't come free!!!! (had to tie to a tree after that :D )

When not in use i just take the bridle off and leave the shackles

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j31/crotchrocket3000/vehicross/100_4980.jpg

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j31/crotchrocket3000/vehicross/DSC01599.jpg




On the rear, again i just use the stock recovery point with a much larger D shackle

http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j31/crotchrocket3000/vehicross/DSC01601.jpg

[ZEUS]

Thanks Justin & Billy-:thanx: http://www.smileyshut.com/smileys/new/Respect/respect-061.gif (http://www.smileyshut.com/Smileys/Smiley-Huts-Free-Respect-Smileys.html)
http://www.smileyshut.com/smileys/new/Respect/respect-063.gif (http://www.smileyshut.com/Smileys/Smiley-Huts-Free-Respect-Smileys.html)
One of my better traits has always been I know what I don't know & know when to ask before I fall off a cliff.......
Thanks for always grabbing me away from the cliff! After I get all the info, I'll give it to my off road shop so they can do it right .

Is that front hook strong enough or should I definitely plan on having at least one D-mount attached up front? I'm not going to do a Frankenbumper, or a Marlinstein http://www.smileyshut.com/smileys/new/Happy/happy-109.gif (http://www.smileyshut.com/Smileys/Smiley-Huts-Free-Happy-Smileys.html) or a front receiver....just one or two secure recovery points up front is all I'm after.
What have others done if you don't have a front receiver?

Dub said the back eyelet is only intended as a tie down for transport, so is there something strong enough in the BACK to weld a mount on?

Thanks for any & all input! http://www.mysmiley.net/imgs/smile/rolleye/rolleye0007.gif (http://www.mysmiley.net/free-character-smileys.php)Yeah, I think you should go for the simplest method and probably replicate what's on the rig of the month. The rear loop should be fine for straight tugs but if used for lateral tugs it would probably get bent if jerked on.

[VX KAT]

Yeah Justin, I think that's what I should do too, now that I've learned much more. I can consider some weld on D mounts in the future. Tanks every"buddy" for learn'ed me on dis topic! http://www.mysmiley.net/imgs/smile/happy/happy0144.gif (http://www.mysmiley.net/free-happy-smileys.php)

[crotchrocket]

Yeah, I think you should go for the simplest method and probably replicate what's on the rig of the month. The rear loop should be fine for straight tugs but if used for lateral tugs it would probably get bent if jerked on.

Thats a good point! the rear IS strong but i have never had a lateral pull on it!!!!

[tom4bren]

Yeah Justin, I think that's what I should do too, now that I've learned much more. I can consider some weld on D mounts in the future. Tanks every"buddy" for learn'ed me on dis topic! http://www.mysmiley.net/imgs/smile/happy/happy0144.gif (http://www.mysmiley.net/free-happy-smileys.php)

Didn't mean to ignore you KAT. I just didn't respond since the more knowledgeable folks beat me to it.

Tom

[ORW VXr]

OOPs the title of this thread thru me off...didn't mean to be:ot:
________
real estate in Pattaya (http://pattayaluxurycondos.com)

[VX KAT]

OOPs the title of this thread thru me off...didn't mean to be:ot:
http://www.smileyshut.com/smileys/new/Laughing/lol-045.gif (http://www.smileyshut.com/Smileys/Smiley-Huts-Free-Laughing-Smileys.html)

[Triathlete]

I'm thinking a rectangular base plate, with a clevis block welded to it, bolted to the frame in place of the stock hook, with the stoutest grade of metric hardware available, SHOULD be adaquate in most situations...thoughts?

That would work.

Whenever I finally get my bumpers built they will have attachment points welded on....but until then I have just used the factory tie down holes. I think you would have to be stuck REALLY good to bend those.

[VX KAT]

Got 2 Crosby 3/4" shackles today, it fits on the rear eyelet, me likey! http://www.mysmiley.net/imgs/smile/happy/happy0105.gif (http://www.mysmiley.net/free-sad-smileys.php)
but can't fit it on the front two holes (well, actually I only tried the front driver side). Not enough space width-wise down there to get pin open far enough to slip it through hole, it's at a slight angle. Tried it both ways too. http://www.thesmilies.com/smilies/winking/winking58.gif (http://www.thesmilies.com)

I might be able to get the next size down 5/8" on which is only 3.25 ton......so Billy how the heck did you get a 3/4" in let alone a 1" on there....the BFH method? I'm not sure I want to beat on the metal thing there...:_thinking
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSC_1369.JPGhttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSC_1371.JPGhttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSC_1372.JPGhttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSC_1361.JPG

[crotchrocket]

Sue, my fronts are 5/8ths. Check the link i sent you.

[newthings]

A rather long time ago, one of our group built a replacement front cross-member with hitch receiver. I got one and installed it. No pix and I have not used it for adding a winch in a pinch, - (sorry, it just came out) or recovery. I have a hitch insert with clevis which I have used in the rear socket (Tone's). Did anyone else add one of these? Did it work well? It hides behind the license plate.
Roy

[Triathlete]

My front end has been rearranged by a rock or two apparently...they just fit!

[Marlin]

Got 2 Crosby 3/4" shackles today, it fits on the rear eyelet, me likey! http://www.mysmiley.net/imgs/smile/happy/happy0105.gif (http://www.mysmiley.net/free-sad-smileys.php)
but can't fit it on the front two holes (well, actually I only tried the front driver side). Not enough space width-wise down there to get pin open far enough to slip it through hole, it's at a slight angle. Tried it both ways too. http://www.thesmilies.com/smilies/winking/winking58.gif (http://www.thesmilies.com)

I might be able to get the next size down 5/8" on which is only 3.25 ton......so Billy how the heck did you get a 3/4" in let alone a 1" on there....the BFH method? I'm not sure I want to beat on the metal thing there...:_thinking
[

Those are actually not recovery points, I use mine as such, but the last time I used the front one, it actually bent that tab all up. Had to bang it back into place with a sledge. That means it is even weaker now. But they do look awesome!!!
Recovery points should be attached to the frame, such as our front tow hook. A hitch insert would work as well since it bolts directly to the frame. I think maybe those holes were for shipping tie downs?

[VX KAT]

My front end has been rearranged by a rock or two apparently...they just fit!

Oh, I see, the "BFR" method.....:laugho:


Those are actually not recovery points, I use mine as such, but the last time I used the front one, it actually bent that tab all up. Had to bang it back into place with a sledge. That means it is even weaker now. But they do look awesome!!!
Recovery points should be attached to the frame, such as our front tow hook. A hitch insert would work as well since it bolts directly to the frame. I think maybe those holes were for shipping tie downs?

Yeah, that was pointed out earlier in the thread, if I called them recovery points that's just me calling me that, and I've decided to just go with them for now, no front receiver etc....

[Sprey]

I agree with marlin thats why i have had this built.
Bolts into factory towhook bolts and has 2 rated hooks on each side.
Best part about it bolt on bolt off :D. It is flat with the end front bumper so people with the extra skidplates might not be possible.
http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/kk404/sprey16/IMG_1366.jpg
http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/kk404/sprey16/IMG_1368.jpg
http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/kk404/sprey16/IMG_1367.jpg

[Marlin]

I agree with marlin thats why i have had this built.
Bolts into factory towhook bolts and has 2 rated hooks on each side.
Best part about it bolt on bolt off :D. It is flat with the end front bumper so people with the extra skidplates might not be possible.
http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/kk404/sprey16/IMG_1366.jpg
http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/kk404/sprey16/IMG_1368.jpg
http://i310.photobucket.com/albums/kk404/sprey16/IMG_1367.jpg

Looks pretty mean...nice. The only problem I see is that it might get hung up on rocks, or get bashed up pretty good. Looks pretty cool though.

[Sprey]

Looks pretty mean...nice. The only problem I see is that it might get hung up on rocks, or get bashed up pretty good. Looks pretty cool though.

Yea your right, last time when i went out, it was good for picking up mud Lol.
But also does give a bit of protection so thats sorta a bonus.

[VX KAT]

Found this thread on the web.....way to keep the shackles from rattling (and in this guy's case, not scratch his bumper). Good pics on page 1 & 2. Never heard of "Glad Hand" seals before, (somethin' about them going on big rig trucker's air lines) but got rubber grommets at the hardware store that do the same thing.

No real problem putting them on the back, but a bear getting them on the front with so little work space....I may just skip the front, they aren't scratching anything and probably can't hear them rattle down there anyway. May do something like it on Dave's front shackles as the FJ OEM skid plate is in the way & they're banging into it. Now he wants custom skids like mine.....http://www.smileyshut.com/smileys/new/Happy/happy-109.gif
http://www.thenewx.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1423

First 2 pics show glad hand seal being used, 3rd pic shows ballcock shank washer.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/IMG_0882.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16664)
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/IMG_3906.jpg
(http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16666)http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/IMG_3114.jpg
(http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16665)http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/Shackle_Washer_1s_.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16667)

[Marlin]

Good idea...I use electrical tape, but that looks a lot more efficient. I took the VX out for her maiden voyage since I picker her up from the shop Friday. It had been about 7 weeks since I had her:( Low and behold, 5 minutes out, I see a Tahoe buried in the mud in the median. They were going to try and pull it out with a minivan using a 1" ratcheting cargo strap!!!!;eekb; Bad idea, would have busted a window or something. Luckily I carry all my gear everywhere. I prefer to pull people out in reverse so I can see whats going on. 5 minutes later, I had him out, no problems. I showed him a trick of using my rubber floor mats to keep from getting muddy when getting under the car. Its all about the simple things in life.
Finally got all the mud and clay out from the interior from last October when I got home. I know that was a long time, but after the trip I had my surgery, and she has been in the shop since 12Dec for the tranny swap. I gave her a full Royal Purple Oil change and filter with 1 quart of Lucas Oil when I got back. A reward for good performance. :)

[VX KAT]

Another mystery today...recall I couldn't get the 3/4" Crosby shackles on front tie down hole. Got the next size down 5/8" (3.25 t) and just barely got the driver's side on, but couldn't get the pass side on...pretty close but still struck out.

Dave used a BFH a little, but it didn't seem to move anything.

I'm leary of going down to next smaller shackle as they're only 2 ton. I know many of you have at least the 5/8" shackles on the front. How? Crothrocket, did you have to rearrange some metal on the pass side??? :_thinking

Any suggestions? (Other than run over some boulders like Billy's method)
:thanx:

[Ldub]

Another mystery today...recall I couldn't get the 3/4" Crosby shackles on front tie down hole. Got the next size down 5/8" (3.25 t) and just barely got the driver's side on, but couldn't get the pass side on...pretty close but still struck out.

Dave used a BFH a little, but it didn't seem to move anything.

I'm leary of going down to next smaller shackle as they're only 2 ton. I know many of you have at least the 5/8" shackles on the front. How? Crothrocket, did you have to rearrange some metal on the pass side??? :_thinking

Any suggestions? (Other than run over some boulders like Billy's method)
:thanx:

The easy way?...I'd use something like this in a 1/2" drill...http://cgi.ebay.com/Taper-Pin-Hole-Reamer-10-11-1-2-Shank-H-S-S-G-C_W0QQitemZ330402399549QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Defau ltDomain_0?hash=item4ced84853d

With more elbow grease, you can accomplish the same result with a large rat tail file...http://cgi.ebay.com/HAND-FILE-JOHNSON-USA-12-ROUND-RAT-TAIL-2ND-CUT_W0QQitemZ250225388338QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Def aultDomain_0?hash=item3a42986b32

OR a grinding burr in a dremel.

[VX KAT]

Another mystery today...recall I couldn't get the 3/4" Crosby shackles on front tie down hole. Got the next size down 5/8" (3.25 t) and just barely got the driver's side on, but couldn't get the pass side on...pretty close but still struck out.


YAH!!!! Got the pass side 5/8" shackle on finally.....well, OK,maybe "I" didn't actually get it on :_brickwal.....I took it to my mechanic :mbrasd: :rollo: :thumbup:

[don moore]

If your looking for VX parts and that .....Then look no further and ask VX KAT..

[VX KAT]

If your looking for VX parts and that .....Then look no further and ask VX KAT..

:laugho: How 'bout "Kat's Parts R US"?

[BigSwede]

I kinda skimmed this thread, but I'll just say that the front tow hook is fine for recovery...in the rear if you have a hitch installed it works well to stick the tow strap loop into the receiver and put the hitch pin through the loop. If you don't have a hitch a frame-mounted tow hook is a much better option than the tie-down point.

Is the VX frame tapped for a rear tow hook like the Troopers are? It would be on the passenger side frame rail.

[BigSwede]

Here is a decent and affordable tow strap...

http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?jeep-sid=0&plID=876&partID=12765

[Breezy]

Sue, my fronts are 5/8ths. Check the link i sent you.

How did you guys get 5/8ths shackles on? I bough 1/2" shackles and I can't get to fully go on the front tie points. I got the pin through, but when I started threading it, it got tighter and tighter against the frame and I coudln't finish putting it on. 5 pound hammer or something...?

[VX KAT]

How did you guys get 5/8ths shackles on? I bough 1/2" shackles and I can't get to fully go on the front tie points. I got the pin through, but when I started threading it, it got tighter and tighter against the frame and I coudln't finish putting it on. 5 pound hammer or something...?

It was tight but just kept wiggling it. Didn't use any BFH,...well I tried a few swings but it didn't do anything.

[workmeistr]

Sue, would you happen to know if the right rear "Mount Bracket", part # 89717 88220, has a matching one for the left rear available on RHD models? Why is this part called "Mount Bracket" (was it a strap down point for transport?), and the flimsy part # 89721 15811 got the title of "Tow Hook"? Inquiring minds want to know.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCF1413.JPG

[tom4bren]

Bren,

I think I have the bracket for the Driver Side. It is not the same as for the passenger side (look in the installation instructions I made up for the upgraded hitch & you'll see a pic). This one was removed from Ash's VX when we installed the hitch (lose both sides for that).

It's not a good place to attach the strap because the hole is small and not rounded to accomodate a strap ... but it is a good place to install a shackle ... then you can attach a strap.

Tom

BTW, the strap would be awful close to the tail pipe on DS if you use that as a snatch point. IIRC it's too close to the exhaust to mount a shackle anyways.

[VX KAT]

Sue, would you happen to know if the right rear "Mount Bracket", part # 89717 88220, has a matching one for the left rear available on RHD models? Why is this part called "Mount Bracket" (was it a strap down point for transport?), and the flimsy part # 89721 15811 got the title of "Tow Hook"? Inquiring minds want to know.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/medium/DSCF1413.JPG

Yes, it was a tie down point for when they came over on the boat. It's not a "true" recovery point. IIRC Marlin has some pics of how his got all "rearranged" during a recovery…I think he just bent it back into shape.

I can't ever recall seeing one for the left side, so I'm curious what Tom is referring to. :_thinking

[workmeistr]

Hi ya' Tom!

Yeah, I have that flimsy bracket/"Tow Hook" from the driver's (L) side. The reason I asked: the beefier "Mount Bracket" on the right side bolts up with two bolts and a "J" hook into a frame hole; those same bolt/frame holes also exist on the left side, making me wonder if there was a similar part (maybe for whatever reason, on RHD models) for the driver's/Left side? You're right, though, snatching from that side might be detrimental to exhaust.

That Left "Tow Hook" isn't engineered to be a tow point; maybe it served a purpose of tiedown point for transport?

Great job on the hitch. I recently installed my Tone-style, notching my gas tank skid in order to get the L bracket of the hitch tight under the rear frame crossmember.

Take care, Bren.

[tom4bren]

Yah, the left side only uses 1 bolt and a 'finger' to grab another hole (but it is a fairly beefy bracket). IIRC the right side uses 2 bolts.

If you want something beefier, I could get Welder Guy to fab up an extra left side hitch/frame plate & you can modify that to make a stronger shackle mount.

I found the one that I pulled from Ash's VX. I'll try to snap a pic of it this weekend.

[Marlin]

I did bend mine all to hell at some point, but it was on rocks, I just hammered it back into place. I had two hooks on the front of mine for awhile, but rocks got those as well and busted the welded nuts from the frame rail, no more tow hooks for me:( I don't need no stinkin front tow hooks anyway, I am not going to pull someone out in reverse, I would imagine the tranny would not like that much:)

[RickOKC]

Yah, the left side only uses 1 bolt and a 'finger' to grab another hole
I have no response to that.

[tom4bren]

I have no response to that.

Me neither too!!!

[tom4bren]

There was quite a discussion about these a couple of years ago (can't find the thread though).

I've been using one for a few years now & only have good things to say about them. They don't look like they'd work ... but they do ... quite well.

[Otwobme]

Yeah, definitely. People get hurt/killed all the time with careless/improper recovery techniques.

Bart


i know someone who was decapitated by using the wrong technic... this can be dangerous if you don't know what you are doing. be careful and practice