Removal of Front Propeller Shaft and Transfer Case?

[sleveritt]

Hey guys,
Need some help getting things loose. I can seem to figure out how to remove the FRONT propeller shaft OR the transfer case. I've previously downloaded the Isuzu Shop Manual and have referenced the appropriate sections, but the descriptions are pretty generic:

Front Propeller Shaft:
1. Jack up and support vehicle
2. Gearshift in Neutral and parking brake released
3. Remove exhaust and transfer protectors
4. Remove bolt and lock washer (front axle side)
5. Remove bolt and washer (transfer side)
6. Remove front propeller shaft

I've done all these but it won't let go. I banged on it and yanked front and rear but nothing. The rear propeller shaft just fell off each end after the last bolt. Any suggestions?

Frustrated, I moved on to the transfer case:
1. Disconnect Ground cable
2. Remove air scoop
3. Remove rear propeller shaft
4. Remove front propeller shaft (stuck on this one)
5. Remove shift control rod
6. Remove consoles and harnesses
7. Remove shift lock cable and remove assembly
8. Remove transfer control lever
9. Remove breather hose
10. Remove left front exhaust
11. Remove muffler (silencer)
12. Remove left seatbelt tension rod and set propeller shaft aside
13. Disconnect transfer connectors
14. Remove Speed Sensor Harness
15. Remove fuse pipe clamp bolt
16. Support tranny with jack
17. Remove 7 bolt on transfer case
18. Remove transfer case assembly

Beside the front propeller shaft thing from before everything else has been done. (It took almost 90 mins to remove those damn 7 nearly impossible to reach bolts - even with universal sockets, just too tight in there. Resorted to 1/8 to 1/4 turns with a closed end wrench - not enough room for the open end.) I've yanked and banged on it, even raised and lowered it with a floor jack but it remains stuck to tranny. Any suggestions? (That is before I chain it to my truck and drive around the block and then check to see what's left....)

Thanks,
Sam

[SPAZZ]

when I changed out my Tcase on my old Ironman...
I couldnt quite figure out why it wasnt coming off. I swore I remioved all the bolts. Then after a day or two I found one more bolt hiding and it was a standard size instead of metric.... ooohhhh I was so mad at that ONE off size bolt.

%^&&* GM!!!!

[ZEUS]

All my bolts matched up - the CV housing on the driveshaft is almost a pressed fit into the yoke tho. It was tough for me to remove it the couple of times I had to. A rubber mallet works to loosen it up - if you can, rotate the driveshaft as you smack it near the yoke. At that point, if you still can't remove it, try a chisel or screwdriver and use a hammer on that to drive it out. The legend goes, before you remove it, mark the driveshaft and yokes so you can reinstall it just as it was installed before to eliminate potential vibrations. Good luck!

[Ascinder]

You have to tap the front of the prop shaft off like Justin says. I used a hammer around the lip with a piece of plastic I had lying around to distribute the blows so the lip didn't get deformed. Mine was like factory new inside and had some opaque grease in there. Good luck. Keep turning and striking and it'll work itself free. One thing to keep in mind is that the area you are hitting is bonded to the shaft through an elastomeric(rubber)bearing. The force of the rubber will try to keep pressing the front part of the shaft forward, so after awhile, you will have to hold the metal lip back from the differential ring by hand and work it free. You'll see what I mean when you get to that point.

[sleveritt]

Ok guys,
Just tried again on the front propeller shaft with a 3lb hammer and then again with a cold chisel and nothing. I'm attaching a picture to help with this conundrum. As you can see, the are marks from my previous attempts to knock it free.

I have moved the metal grease cover forward but found it damn near impossible to hold it with one hand and whack it with the hammer. I work with my finger and that is too close for comfort.

As for the transfer case, I counted all 7 bolts on the ziplock bag. Now what?
(Bear in mind this vehicle is over a decade old and appears that none of these parts have ever been removed.)

Sam

[sleveritt]

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/IMG00372.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16863)

[ZEUS]

Try spraying it with some pb blaster or something of the sort. If you have a strap wrench, that may help afterward - put the t-case in 4-low so it doesn't spin from the wrench. That's all I got...

[Ascinder]

So, right around the edge of where those bolts are is the lip. If you already have the rear of the shaft and the crossmember removed which you pretty much have to do, then you just keep working around that lip until it moves freely by hand. Remember, the rubber elastomeric bearing will try to keep the lip seated. To make things worse, I think the flange it attaches to has slight ridge from being machined that help hold the lip in place. Once the lip moves by hand all the way around you just yank the shaft to the rear and it pops out. It may help to rotate the shaft and keep it at a slight angle to put tension on whatever side of the lip you are trying to dislodge at the time. Also, if you have a heat gun or hairdryer, that may help the lip side of the shaft to expand enough to help it work free. Just be careful you don't heatsoak the elastomeric bearing inside or the flange the lip attaches to or it will expand as well and get you nowhere.

[sleveritt]

The crossmember is removed. Both ends of front propeller shaft are still stuck. The transfer case is just hanging from the rear of the tranny - all 7 bolts have been removed. I've got the thin metal grease cover to move and noticed the hardware inside, but still no movement....

So, is the transfer case holding the propeller shaft?
Or, is the propeller shaft holding the transfer case?
(Chicken or the egg scenario.....)

Sam

[Ascinder]

I'd try knocking the side of the prop shaft with a soft mallet to jar it loose, it can be stuck in there pretty good. Also might want to try jacking up the transfer case. It may be pushing down and pinching the prop shaft between it and the front diff.

[sleveritt]

Ok, so I finally got the transfer case and front propeller shaft loose. I've got some photos to attach that will hopefully make this an easier process for everyone else in the future. Of note, the REAR propeller shaft is not compressible/expandable, whereas the FRONT propeller shaft is - by an inch or two I might add.

The overall solution was to move the transfer case rearward with taps from my 3lb hammer. In all honesty, I was trying to create enough room for the propeller shaft to just fall off when I noticed the T-case had moved about an inch!:bgwb: That isn't where I sprayed the PB Blaster, but I'll take it!

Well, at least it was movement in the right direction. So I continued with the pounding (after getting my wood blocks positioned to prevent anything more than an inch fall) thinking the shaft would let go at anytime! But alas, it was not to be.. The shaft remained in place.

Eventually the transfer case slid off the transmission shaft and onto my blocks! Hah! Success! Except.........:mady::mady: that damn propeller was still attached AT BOTH ENDS!!! I actually said to myself - "That is impossible!"

I resisted the temptation to attached a tow strap to it and get a running start with my 8000lb truck and see what happened. Instead, I pulled the transfer case to the side of the truck and braced my feet on the frame and pulled with all I had until - clank! The differential side let go! I hauled my Great White Whale into position for photos. Here it is:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/IMG00374.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16936)

As you might notice from this shot of the Front Propeller - Differential side - There is a PROTRUSION that prevents the shaft from falling off!
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/IMG00375.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16937)

So, I began working on the transfer case connection with a cold chisel and my 3lb hammer and after a dozen or so good whacks - clank! It too fell off:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/IMG00380.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16938)

Notice the crusty, rusty, flaky stuff that was apparently holding it all in place. Note how both ends have PROTRUSIONS. That certainly didn't help my efforts of removal, but here is the real kicker. The shaft is compessible/expandable. So, and here is the part to pay particular attention to, no matter how hard you hit the shaft from the side, because it is constantly trying to expand (that would prevent disconnection under flexing) - it is designed to NOT fall off. Here it is compressed:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/IMG00381.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16939)

And here it is expanded:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/IMG00382.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=16940)

And this was only at one end, it does the same thing at the other.

Here is my advice, FWIW: Removed all bolts from front propeller shaft ends and then compress the shaft for easier removal. Think about looping some high tensile wire or cable around the shoulder end of both shafts and twist the slack out with a heavy duty tool until the compression pulls one end loose. Or you could also removed the bolts from the transfer case and slide that rearward. Either way could work depending on how "stuck" the ends are.

Any questions or suggestions? (It was a hard learned experience.)

Sam

[ZEUS]

I'm just happy to hear you got that cusser off!

[LittleBeast]

I am sorry about your problems, I thought you knew the axle compresses, I think most people here thought you had already broken it loose and were compressing it and then trying to knock it out with a hammer after compressing it as much as possible. I just dropped my front diff and it just pulled straight out :)

more info on this subject:
http://www.zu4x.com/modules.php?name=Content

[sleveritt]

LB, there was much confusion on my part, which is why I listed the shop manual instructions line-by-line. I just searched this thread and the word compress was first used by me after the ordeal was over. And it appears that this was quite an important part of the removal process.

And FWIW, axles do not compress - they are the solid metal shafts running from the differentials to the hubs. What we've been talking about is the front propeller shaft - again, I think more confusion on the terminology.

When instructing other people, I've come to realize - "It's all about the details."

Sam

[Marlin]

Damn, I spent the last two hours trying to get the rear portion of the front axle shaft out. The front came down fairly easy, I had it out last Dec for the diff drop install and the Feb before that for the locker install. I have pounded, tried to pry. I just broke 2 2000lb straps tied off to the F250. I tried to use the RS as an anchor, with the VX in 4low reverse, I was starting to drag the RS across the pavement. The F250 as an anchor just compressed the front suspension until the straps gave out. I am going to try and soak it with PB blaster and try again tomorrow, if that doesn't work, its time to get out the 10K chain. That damn thing will come out!!!!

[Triathlete]

This thread was brought up at a good time as I will be removing these things soon also. :)

[Ldub]

This thread was brought up at a good time as I will be removing these things soon also. :)

Yeah, but you'll prolly use a sawzall or jackhammer...:rotate:

[Triathlete]

Yeah, but you'll prolly use a sawzall or jackhammer...:rotate:

If thats what it takes...:bwgy:

[Gizmo42]

We couldnt get the rear flange loose on Mikes on the trail when we thought he busted the T-case. We ended up prying the front out since we couldnt get it past the diff flange (hopefully we didnt damage anything). But the rear wouldnt budge, we ended up just tying it up since we were doing the same with the rear shaft to just tow it out of there.

[Marlin]

I soaked it pretty good with some PB blaster. I guess I will have to give in and take the skid plates off as well.
Hopefully the damn thing will fall out with the first love "tap" with the 3lb sledge.

I had to pull it out. Its been crackling for some time when I back up or go over the curb in the driveway. The other day, it started vibrating at lower speeds, I could feel it at lower speeds. The front CV is toast! The boot is just about non-existent! All the grease is spattered in a nice circle around the front joint, I think of it as free corrosion protection...:bgwb:

The ultimate cause of my driveshaft failure is lowering the front end. When I did the diff drop, I never lifted the front end back up to the height I had it before, this is because I needed to reindex the torsion bar on the passenger side from doing the superflexy IFS install. Once I trailed it with the front lowered, I was amazed at the increase in performance and ride, I never bothered. I also never bothered to note that my drive shaft CV was at a negative angle:( So, for those that want to lower their VX, be careful, there may be more issues in the future (besides the fact of removing any ability to get away from zombies or erupting volcanoes)

[waaaaht]

i took my front propellar out last week. cv's on passenger side are toast...wobble wobble cluck cluck. Easy way for the front part of it to come out is to jack up the transfer case to put it at an angle. The rear of it came out by putting a cold chisel and 3lb hammer in between the TC and shaft. rides a lot better, still have the problem but just doesn't seem as bad. never had to take the crossmember out as well.

[Triathlete]

Marlin, why would lowering/lifting your vx affect the prop shaft...the pumpkin stays in the same place?
The drop bracket install on the other hand...

[Gizmo42]

Marlin, why would lowering/lifting your vx affect the prop shaft...the pumpkin stays in the same place?

Thats what make me wonder about the cause of the "rumble strip" noise like Cece and Kat both got after lifting theirs. Unplugging the front TOD sensor makes it go away but the only thing that changes on the front end is cv angles which shouldnt matter since they are constant velocity.

[Marlin]

Hmmm, I was thinking that lifting the front end would change the angle of the drive shaft. As I crank the front end up, the front diff goes up as well. Now that I look at it, the angle is changed at the CVs, making the actual pivot point at the inner CV joint, not transfer case like I was thinking.

Looks like I am screwed.

On a happy note, I got the drive shaft out, soaked with PB blaster last night, had to pull all the skid plates off, chisel and hammer...POP! Came right out. It does seem a little peppier, but that may be psychological. Still making creaking noises. I had the wife slowly back in and out of the driveway, still can't tell where its coming from, its not the CVs, since they aren't turning, sounds like its in the suspension, but nothing is moving that I can see and I really can't pinpoint the sound. Perhaps it could be a bent shock? My rear drive shaft should be done tomorrow. I will swap that and see if the noise goes away. (extra drive shaft lol. I could see some folks wondering "How is he test driving with no front or rear driveshaft?")

[Marlin]

With my luck, it will turn out to be a rock inside the brakes or something silly like that. Its more of a creaking sound, not a rubbing, but a popping/creaking. Like when you are behind someone with slow full rear flex, you can hear everything creaking as various parts move. It makes me think of that sound, its only at slow speeds on incline(ie driveway or when first accelerating/decelerating)

[Ldub]

With my luck, it will turn out to be a rock inside the brakes or something silly like that. Its more of a creaking sound, not a rubbing, but a popping/creaking. Like when you are behind someone with slow full rear flex, you can hear everything creaking as various parts move. It makes me think of that sound, its only at slow speeds on incline(ie driveway or when first accelerating/decelerating)

Grease your sway bar bushings...:yesgray:

[Triathlete]

You also have rubber bushings on your control arms...dust/dirt/grime will cause them to creak.

[Marlin]

I just did the swaybar bushings for the URE trip, the control arm bushings are definitely a possibility as well. They are pretty muddy up in there. I will try pressure washing it tomorrow and see where I get. Thanks for the tips guys.