Cladding Question....

[HOT_WASABI_JUNKIE]

So I backed into a security gate at my house....

I put a long vertical indent into my rear bumper cladding,
About 10 inches long just to the right of the reflector on the passenger side and in the most "bulbous" part of the bumper.

So two questions ...One has anyone ever pounded out big cladding dings?
I was thinking to remove the bumper cladding and try to stand on the crease till it pops out. I took my tail light off and got my hand in there but could not budge it, But I think with a little more leverage and force it might.

Second...If that is my best course of action, are there any tips to removing the bumper cladding that are worth knowing? I took all the screws out the top and it barely moved, I am aware their are screws on the bottom but it got dark on me and I stopped removing screws.

My third option is a bumper replacement but if the cladding can be pounded out and it looks semi okay I can live with that..

[VX KAT]

I've read on here that some have reshaped the cladding carefully using a hair dryer.

[Ldub]

in front of the tail lights, under the side cladding, is where the hard to remove fasteners reside...:naughty:

and obama put em there...:laughing:

[Ascinder]

Use a hairdryer, or if you have one, a heatgun or plastic welder. The last two just have more direct heat. You need to do it slowly and take your time or it'll get too hot and get nasty. I copied the following from an auto repair blog:


The most effective way I've found to remove the dents in the plastic bumpers is a three step process...

First, I use a curing lamp (that mobile painters use) to heat the damage and surrounding area. The heat from the lamp softens a large enough area for pushing the bulk of the damage out. When you heat a larger area, it allows more of the pressure and crowning to dissipate as it softens the plastic. With the larger surface area heated and pliable, there is less pressure required to move large or deep damage. Before you push, evaluate the shape of the dent to try to determine where the bulk of the pressure is being held. This should be your first push once the temperature is appropriate. With the painted surface properly heated, the paint has less chance of "spidering" due to its pliability.

Second, I use a heat gun for directed heat on remaining crowns and lows and work each part of the deformation just like a normal (metal) dent. The most important part of this is to partially quench each area as you work the deformations out. I use a block of aluminum that I have made into a dolly. The aluminum dissipates the heat quickly, but only enough to "pin" the repair into place. (The dolly also comes in useful as a prying instrument on larger, flatter deformations.)

You can get close to the same cooling effect by keeping a damp cloth nearby and lightly water quenching the specific area you work. The problem with using the damp cloth is the possibility of damaging the paint while it is hot. If the surface is really hot the cloth will leave an impression of its texture on the paint surface. The best way to quench with the rag is to work from the back of the panel.

Lastly, Let the area start to cool. Once the paint is cool enough to not be damaged, a full water quench on the entire surface will stabilize the plastic and solidify the repair.

[89Vette]

Use a hairdryer, or if you have one, a heatgun or plastic welder. The last two just have more direct heat. You need to do it slowly and take your time or it'll get too hot and get nasty. I copied the following from an auto repair blog:

I agree. Some hair dryers don't get hot enough. Don't give up if you try the hair dryer idea first and it doesn't work. I've reshaped warped urethane several times. And, I used a hair dryer -- but it's an older one that can melt your face off!

[circmand]

I beleive I read here that in addition to the screws the cladding is also attached with tape. So you may have to pull it off firmly even after screws are out

[ScottinMA]

After removing the the cladding I put very hot water (near boiling) into the damage area and waited a short time then, while wearing a glove, I popped the cladding back to it's original shape.

[HOT_WASABI_JUNKIE]

Thanks for the tips...I'll be back and tell you how it goes... Im thinking of the boiling water method....

[tom4bren]

IIRC, there isn't any tape on the rear cladding. Those hidden Torx are a PITA. Make sure you have a helper on hand when removing and installing so they can hold it out far enough for you to get your hand in there. I think I ended up using a small crescent wrench on the Torx bit since there isn't much room.

[JHarris1385]

I heard G. W. Bush sells a cladding repair kit and shipping is free.

[HOT_WASABI_JUNKIE]

Fixed!!

Pulled off the bumper...
Once I unscrewed all the visible rivets I tore the thing off. The set of hidden torx screws on each side can still be screwed down if I want to but Im gonna see if my bumper cladding moves around with them lined up but not torqued down.I modified the screw holes so they are more like V notches now that slide under the screw heads. I don't think it will make a bit of difference really.
Anyway I poured boiling water in the damaged area, let it sit for a few minutes...My daughter's chihuahua burned his tongue when he tried to drink it.
I just stood on it with my foot on my soft lawn and "snap" ...Back to normal...Sort of.
There are a few small tell tale creases where the dent was but I think most folks won't catch them. Thanks for all the good advice.

[Ascinder]

Thanks for all the good advice.

VOTE REPUBLICAN!!


LOL, just kidding, couldn't help myself:bwgy:

[Marlin]

Damn, I was gonna say he could have it added to the Health Care bill as an amendment.

[Ldub]

IIRC, there isn't any tape on the rear cladding. Those hidden Torx are a PITA. Make sure you have a helper on hand when removing and installing so they can hold it out far enough for you to get your hand in there. I think I ended up using a small crescent wrench on the Torx bit since there isn't much room.

Tools Tom, I keep tellin' ya...TOOLS!...:_wrench::_wrench::_wrench:... :laughing:

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-4-Ratchet-Driver-w-7PC-Bits_W0QQitemZ300266405409QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_De faultDomain_0?hash=item45e945be21

http://i12.ebayimg.com/05/i/000/ff/ec/aa61_35.JPG

[Ldub]

VOTE REPUBLICAN!!


LOL, just kidding, couldn't help myself:bwgy:

:laughing:.:laughing:.:laughing:

This is the first thread in years where junkie has had a question or comment that actually pertained to the VX...:thumbup:

And you're tryin' to get him stirred up? :slap:

Oh wait, I guess it IS irrisistable...:smilewink

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showpost.php?p=187863&postcount=3

1 virtual slap for me too...:slap:

[HOT_WASABI_JUNKIE]

Im not taking the bait!

[tom4bren]

Tools Tom, I keep tellin' ya...TOOLS!...

No compute ... I'm a lover ... not a wrencher:)