CV joint replacement

[Marlin]

I know there are other how-tos for this, but they did not help me. Here is one with some pics and step by step instructions I hope will help others.
Tools you will need:
8mm Allen wrench
3lb sledge
lug wrench
breaker bar
2 jacks and/or stands
pick
snap ring pliers
14,17mm(deepwell and regular), 22 mm sockets and appropriate ratchet. i recommend 1/2" drive.
14,17,22mm wrenches
boot band tool
hand swag(for cutting boot band) A good pair of dikes would work as well.
rags
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/CV%20joint/IMGP0944-1.jpg

[Marlin]

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/CV%20joint/IMGP0933.jpg

Remove wheel. Then remove the hub cover with the 8mm wrench.

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/CV%20joint/IMGP0943-1.jpg

[Marlin]

Once you get the hub cover off, remove the snapring with the snapring pliers. This will release the CV joint for later.

Next you need to take the calipers off.
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/CV%20joint/IMGP0935.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/CV%20joint/IMGP0936.jpg

[Marlin]

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/CV%20joint/IMGP0937.jpg

After this is done, you need to put the jack under the A-arm. Then go ahead and remove the bolts for the lower ball joint and break the tie rod end free.

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/CV%20joint/IMGP0938.jpg

[Marlin]

Now you can pull the CV out once you have removed the retaining ring inside the green cup. At this point, you need to remove the boot, you are going to get dirty, just accept it and dig in:)

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/CV%20joint/IMGP0940.jpg

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/CV%20joint/IMGP0942-1.jpg

[Marlin]

To put the new CV in, put the splines into the hub first, and then you can swing the other end into the cup past where the front bump stop was.
Put the snapring back into the cup, put the boot on. Then you just work backwards from there. Voila, drink some beer and celebrate a job well done.
:_beer:

[tomdietrying]

Cool! Thanks for time and effort in putting this together.
Peace.
Tom

[Marlin]

Yep, none of the other how tos showed to remove that stupid ring inside the green cup. The lack of that step resulted in me pulling the entire axle out and subsequently ruining an inner axle seal. Bad joo joo. Following my procedure, it took me 2 hours, by myself, taking pics and whatnot.
Before the VX, I had never done anything mechanical on a car except change a starter on my old Bronco II,brake pads on my volvo, and thats about it.
I just want to show that anyone can do it, and with minimal tools. I got all that junk and more at Harbor Freight for less than 80 bucks. I also cheated and used some pneumatics to speed things along, but they are not neccessary. We did that exact same job in the campground, in the dark and it was raining. Took longer then, but I am getting better at it:)
Thanks Tom

[PK]

Yep, none of the other how tos showed to remove that stupid ring inside the green cup.

The how to for CV boot replacement clearly shows that snap ring and how to remove it.
That is what I have used for each boot replacement I have done.

PK

[Marlin]

The how to for CV boot replacement clearly shows that snap ring and how to remove it.
That is what I have used for each boot replacement I have done.

PK

I searched for CV joint replacement, and found nothing about the stupid snap ring. I also looked at the tech manual, it just says something like "remove the CV axle shaft" or something along those lines.
Wow, I just looked at the CV boot how to, strikingly similar to what I came up with on my without any guidance...lol. Rework, gotta love it. I am curious to know how the CV joint came out without removing the calipers or the tie rod. I could not get near enough clearance without doing that, and mine was missing the last 2 inches of the CV shaft!! He also didn't mention removing the hub and the outer snap ring? Plus the ABS sensor is kind of a PITA since it is the most limiting component. The 1st time I did this I had to take the wire our of all the brackets and disconnect the harness. This time, I just cut them;) I think the big difference is that those are just boot swaps, you don't have to pull the whole CV out to do that. Mine was for replacing the entire CV joint.
Well, that write up is clearer than mine, and skips a lot of the things I did, such as removing calipers to minimize stress on the brake lines, and saves chance of tie rod end damage when breaking it loose. I will try again when I do the other side. Although, I have to replace the ball joints anyway.
Thanks Jack for the heads up.
(As I humbly walk away with my head hanging low and tail between my legs.):sad1:

[PK]

I searched for CV joint replacement, and found nothing about the stupid snap ring. I also looked at the tech manual, it just says something like "remove the CV axle shaft" or something along those lines.
Wow, I just looked at the CV boot how to, strikingly similar to what I came up with on my without any guidance...lol. Rework, gotta love it. I am curious to know how the CV joint came out without removing the calipers or the tie rod. I could not get near enough clearance without doing that, and mine was missing the last 2 inches of the CV shaft!! He also didn't mention removing the hub and the outer snap ring? Plus the ABS sensor is kind of a PITA since it is the most limiting component. The 1st time I did this I had to take the wire our of all the brackets and disconnect the harness. This time, I just cut them;) I think the big difference is that those are just boot swaps, you don't have to pull the whole CV out to do that. Mine was for replacing the entire CV joint.
Well, that write up is clearer than mine, and skips a lot of the things I did, such as removing calipers to minimize stress on the brake lines, and saves chance of tie rod end damage when breaking it loose. I will try again when I do the other side. Although, I have to replace the ball joints anyway.
Thanks Jack for the heads up.
(As I humbly walk away with my head hanging low and tail between my legs.):sad1:

Hey Man, don't go on a downer on me. LOL.
As you mention in your post, your write up was for replacing the whole CV joint. The other how to is just for the boots, and works great for the boots.
But you cannot replace the whole joint without including at least some of the points your write up covers.
I only mentioned the other write up because it did mention the snap ring that you found the hard way.
Keep up the good work Marlin.:thumbup::thumbup:
You are obviously enjoying your new found skills.

PK

[LittleBeast]

I searched for CV joint replacement, and found nothing about the stupid snap ring. I also looked at the tech manual, it just says something like "remove the CV axle shaft" or something along those lines.
Wow, I just looked at the CV boot how to, strikingly similar to what I came up with on my without any guidance...lol. Rework, gotta love it. I am curious to know how the CV joint came out without removing the calipers or the tie rod. I could not get near enough clearance without doing that, and mine was missing the last 2 inches of the CV shaft!! He also didn't mention removing the hub and the outer snap ring? Plus the ABS sensor is kind of a PITA since it is the most limiting component. The 1st time I did this I had to take the wire our of all the brackets and disconnect the harness. This time, I just cut them;) I think the big difference is that those are just boot swaps, you don't have to pull the whole CV out to do that. Mine was for replacing the entire CV joint.
Well, that write up is clearer than mine, and skips a lot of the things I did, such as removing calipers to minimize stress on the brake lines, and saves chance of tie rod end damage when breaking it loose. I will try again when I do the other side. Although, I have to replace the ball joints anyway.
Thanks Jack for the heads up.
(As I humbly walk away with my head hanging low and tail between my legs.):sad1:

Yeah I was wondering why you took the brakes apart as well, I have done work on the CV's a million times it seems like and I never messed with the brakes or ball joints. Just taken off the 4 lower bolts on the lower control arm/ball joint seems to loosen everything enough. It is really fun getting to know the VX though, and some people are able to get the front diff out without even taken apart the center steering link, which is great because that may be the #1 most difficult thing to remove on the VX. I ruined my center link last time I was removing it only to figure out a way to get the diff dropped without totally take it out, but just getting the passenger side loose :) Learning your VX is half the fun in wrenching though. I betcha I might have the only VX with Home Depot bolts holding together the control arm on the steering ;)

[Ldub]

Where's the step where you add a full tube of fresh CV grease?...:_wrench:

[Marlin]

[QUOTE=LittleBeast;191601] It is really fun getting to know the VX though, and some people are able to get the front diff out without even taken apart the center steering link, which is great because that may be the #1 most difficult thing to remove on the VX. QUOTE]

When I did mine, the 1st time I spent quite a while hammering at the pitman arm with the puller as tight as I cuold get it for fear of my life. turns out if you just loosen the 4 bolts that hold the steering box on, the arm will just pop out with hammering:) I learned that the hard way.

[Marlin]

Where's the step where you add a full tube of fresh CV grease?...:_wrench:

I was putting a new CV in, so I had already done that:) I was very impressed that the old grease was in great shape! I think they were the original boots as well, no tears, but they were starting to crack, so only a matter of time I suspect.
Next, check out your tip on the lower link.

[tom4bren]

Marlin,

It all depends on what you are tearing it apart for. If you're just replacing boots or stuffing new inner races & bearings into the existing outer race then the DL instructions are easies. If you need to pull the axles for changing the outer race, then you'll need to go through all that you did.

[crotchrocket]

This is awesome, thanks Marlin!!!

[killinformula]

Just wanted to add another bit of information... I followed this write up and it went amazing using the EMPI CV, so thank you Merlin! There are two things i would add:
1) if the tie rod gives you trouble, use a pit-man arm remover (can be rented and then returned from auto parts store) -- it took 10 seconds to get the rod out
2) To just clarify on the re-install...turn the rotors toward the front of the car and by removing the second bolt from the bump stop makes it even easier to first slide the CV into the bearings of the rotor area then slide the other end into the green cup

Now for the band that came with the EMPI CV:
The band is fairly easy to install but you will need a CV band tool (could only buy and then return from an auto parts store, could find anywhere to rent) as stated by Merlin. Just face the part of the band that will be crimped toward the front of the car, and then get under the car to see better and use the tool in the hole between the A-arm and the rotor, it gives the best angle for crimping.

Once again thanks for the write up, it was very clear! I was going to take pics of my job but you covered it very well.

[Triathlete]

To replace the CV you don't need to remove the tie rod!
I bought a band tool for about $10 and it worked great...kept it for future use since it was cheap.

[Marlin]

Just wanted to add another bit of information... I followed this write up and it went amazing using the EMPI CV, so thank you Merlin! There are two things i would add:
1) if the tie rod gives you trouble, use a pit-man arm remover (can be rented and then returned from auto parts store) -- it took 10 seconds to get the rod out
2) To just clarify on the re-install...turn the rotors toward the front of the car and by removing the second bolt from the bump stop makes it even easier to first slide the CV into the bearings of the rotor area then slide the other end into the green cup

Now for the band that came with the EMPI CV:
The band is fairly easy to install but you will need a CV band tool (could only buy and then return from an auto parts store, could find anywhere to rent) as stated by Merlin. Just face the part of the band that will be crimped toward the front of the car, and then get under the car to see better and use the tool in the hole between the A-arm and the rotor, it gives the best angle for crimping.

Once again thanks for the write up, it was very clear! I was going to take pics of my job but you covered it very well.

Glad it was helpful, but dude, its marlin, not Merlin, merlin is one of our Zu contacts out of St Charles, MO.
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/IMGP0994.jpg

[Triathlete]

Glad it was helpful, but dude, its Charlie Tuna, not Merlin, merlin is one of our Zu contacts out of St Charles, MO.
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa234/nfntruth/IMGP0994.jpg

Fixed it!:bwgy:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/7/77/Tunacharlie.png

[killinformula]

haha sorry Marlin, i posted on my ipod touch and it was to much of a pain to go back and check.. i knew i was taking a stab at it. Thanks for being a good sport, and i will remember it from now on :)

[sindarin]

4 years later. I have the engine out, and I figure "Hey, let's go through the entire undercarriage and lift, etc while the car is 'in lighter fashion'!" (Silly NY'er... 4x4's are for west folk...)

Passenger side Lower ball joint bolt head (outer rear bolt) is spinning in the "carriaged A-arm socket" and I finally got purchase on it... Outer psgr CV boot tears.... (wa-wa-waaaaaaa! *game show fail tune, followed with manly sigh!*)

Inner CV Boots are "rubber crackingly dry" upon inspection, and the axles are only like $60 ea at O'Reilly's... Ahh what the hell, I'm already in here so in for a penny, in for a pound...

And then I meet Lucifer himself.... the Snap ring that holds these bastards in. 100 degree weather.. beer is running low... WTF is holding these sumbitches in like Alcatraz prisoners!?!?! C-Ring(s)...

After this I need to find a wiring harness that goes to psgr side O2 Sensor(s) which were melted by 'conveniently resting atop the exhaust' whilst wrapped around the driveshaft to the rear pumpkin, and I am desperately seeking a new heater core (in for a pound, now in for a ton)

Contacted RD for the radiator, waiting for the 3" lift with 919's, looking for steel brake lines and will need tires. Not an easy fixer-upper, but I ate a lot of rice with a lil soy, switched to sake and put on the Vapors in order to "think a lil more land o' the Rising Sun"

EXCELLENT Photos/walk-thru FOUR YRZ LATER!!

[Marlin]

That ring is a PITA, you have to start clearing grease until you see the open end. I use a pick and sometimes a flat head and seems to work. Since I have learned how to drive over the last 4 yrs, I haven't had any problems with CV joints. As for torn boots, the RS has had a torn boot for years, I just fill it with grease every once in a while and let it ride. Going on 5 yrs, no problems. Same with the prop shaft boots, although it is starting to make noise:smack:

[eternal21]

And then I meet Lucifer himself.... the Snap ring that holds these bastards in. 100 degree weather.. beer is running low... WTF is holding these sumbitches in like Alcatraz prisoners!?!?! C-Ring(s)...

I just got finished changing upper and lower ball joints on both side, as well as doing the inner and outer cv boots (both sides)....first time for doing any of it on the VX. Easiest way I found to get them off: the cup has 6 indentions in it for each of the 6 ball bearings that need to fit in there. Get a flat head and slide along one of the indentions until you find the ring. Wriggle your screwdriver under it, pull it up, and keep on sliding it around until you come to the end of it. Use a pair if needle nose to hold that end and circle back round w/the flat head until you come to the other end and pull it out.

[djvx]

I got the driver side inner cv out by just pulling the 4 control arm bolts. Was gonna just replace boot. Saw the passenger side inner was also torn. Now Im doing both axles with aftermarket ones, was wondering if the cheap O'rielly ones can handle the angle since I'm lifted? did anyone do the ball joint flip when doing these? isn't it supposed to align the cv more straight if your lifted?

[Triathlete]

Flipping ball joints will do nothing for your cv angle...it only makes alignments easier after a lift.

[Ldub]

I got the driver side inner cv out by just pulling the 4 control arm bolts. Was gonna just replace boot. Saw the passenger side inner was also torn. Now Im doing both axles with aftermarket ones, was wondering if the cheap O'rielly ones can handle the angle since I'm lifted? did anyone do the ball joint flip when doing these? isn't it supposed to align the cv more straight if your lifted?

Billy nailed it on the ball joint flip. The only thing that straightens out the CV angle is dropping the front differential with diff drop brackets.

These (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOE0/614002/03368.oap?year=2000&make=Isuzu&model=Trooper&vi=1363272&ck=Search_cv+boot_1363272_3281&keyword=cv+boot) from O'Reillys look to be of good quality, & IIRC, Jo has used them with good results.

These (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOE0/614001/03368.oap?year=2000&make=Isuzu&model=Trooper&vi=1363272&ck=Search_cv+boot_1363272_3281&keyword=cv+boot) are ten bucks cheaper per, and are also neoprene. I'd suggest comparing the two side by side on the counter to feel the thickness/flexibility, and make the call based on which you think will last longer.

(note: the diameter of the hub & shaft openings are larger on the cheaper one, make sure it's not too big @ 3.85" vs 3.30")

Good Luck & Happy :_wrench:

[tom4bren]

These (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOE0/614002/03368.oap?year=2000&make=Isuzu&model=Trooper&vi=1363272&ck=Search_cv+boot_1363272_3281&keyword=cv+boot) from O'Reillys look to be of good quality, & IIRC, Jo has used them with good results.

These (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DOE0/614001/03368.oap?year=2000&make=Isuzu&model=Trooper&vi=1363272&ck=Search_cv+boot_1363272_3281&keyword=cv+boot) are ten bucks cheaper per, and are also neoprene. I'd suggest comparing the two side by side on the counter to feel the thickness/flexibility, and make the call based on which you think will last longer.

(note: the diameter of the hub & shaft openings are larger on the cheaper one, make sure it's not too big @ 3.85" vs 3.30")

The second ones you posted came in without the Dorman name on the package ... & only lasted 2 days on the Amigo. I'll be switching them out to AutoZone ones that look like OEM. They worked out well for me on the VX.

[simonsayz1]

OK....how the hell do you get the lower ball joints bolts off when they are recessed in the arm? It just keeps spinning

[simonsayz1]

Screw it, I cut them off!!

[darkl4805]

Anyone have this thread saved with the pictures by any chance?

Ignore my question. Guess it was the browser. Seeing all pictures now.

[Sculptor57]

I'm new here and am researching brake replacement. I didn't think the forum needed a new post for an old subject so adding on here.
Captive Rotor Replacement video from 2011. https://youtu.be/ervit_vNHxc