Ball joint flip/torsion bar & OME912 spring lift

[Triathlete]

Time: About 4 hours

Parts needed: OME912 Springs

Tools needed: Jack
Jack stands
Socket wrench
14mm, 19mm, 27mm sockets
14mm, 22mm open end/box wrench
Needlenose pliers
torque wrench

REAR SPRINGS
1.Remove the 19mm lower nut on the rear shock
http://pstr-m05.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/002/19/95/A7/CC/Qz5Y3Wx5vOFEmZ8ogchOZ5BZYg3ncqIV0190.jpg
2.Jack the rear end up slightly and remove the lower part of the shock from the shaft
http://pstr-m01.ygpweb.aol.com/data/008/53/5D/C2/A3/copOU-7upuXLq9snx-6LyJFWz8Ogzt2L0190.jpg
3.Continue to jack the rear up until the springs become unseated
http://pstr-m01.ygpweb.aol.com/data/006/5A/44/F4/AB/cHzXYEwxc0h5Id6nKcFiRB6M9lnlmSle0190.jpg http://pstr-m04.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/008/3B/D1/FC/74/9kEFiH1igP+1Kip6LFC2Y6NIARDLYm850190.jpg
4.Remove the springs.
Stock spring on left and new OME912 spring on right
http://pstr-m04.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/00E/5E/57/A8/91/QhxVwcZ-08X6DU7-iBmdeFOZOpD84cU+0190.jpg
5.Instal new springs. The smooth flat end goes up. The spring then needs to be rotated clockwise until the end sets in the stop.
http://pstr-m01.ygpweb.aol.com/data/001/5E/14/7F/D2/cHL0kB6d0ieUczr8sQQs6gYSO+Zml+rR0190.jpg
6.Line up the upper part of the spring with the seat.
http://pstr-m01.ygpweb.aol.com/data/00B/15/E8/0A/0C/jJq3rKVhSWVO7t81PO1qgL9hNuoRJfuC0190.jpg
7.Lower the jack partially making sure the upper spring/seat remain aligned.
8.Reconnect the lowwer shock torqueing the bolt to 58 lb ft.
9.Lowwer the Vehicross completely.
The rear is now complete
http://pstr-m05.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/007/6A/62/07/87/rvv8i-7QyRftLtJr-OYaVjaEcpTJv1vR0190.jpg
Rear clearance (15" ruler under fuel tank)
http://pstr-m01.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/009/04/FF/E2/C5/CE5ej5xCRv+i2rNYaw9pJvFewkHZwlSu0190.jpg

BALL JOINT FLIP
1.Jack up one side of the front of the Vehicross.
2.Remove wheel.
3.You will now be able to see the upper ball joint.
http://pstr-m01.ygpweb.aol.com/data/004/2B/49/CE/F6/8PeRS8yletXVQtt-Wcna230zdCoPvsE+0190.jpg
4.Next remove the cotter pin and the crown nut on the bottom.
http://pstr-m01.ygpweb.aol.com/data/002/47/11/D6/12/i17bmc5muOEjsTg+Ijhn2TlMA+KwAL1+0190.jpg
5.Using the sledge hammer tap/hit the spindle until it drops from the ball joint. Use caution...the lowwer section will drop about 2 inches.
http://pstr-m04.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/00F/7B/A3/B3/B7/UzOMDG1+zxSfISnQ9h5to56NLDw0rbWH0190.jpg
http://pstr-m01.ygpweb.aol.com/data/00E/44/F2/18/FA/lQ1QF9kkEFPQh90dQFLdDcGUmT5RE4vb0190.jpg
6.Next remove the 3 14mm bolts
7.Remove the ball joint and relocate it to the bottom.
8.Reinstall the 14mm bolts to hold it in place.
9.Torque bolts to 76 lb ft.
http://pstr-m04.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/00F/09/30/A6/81/0PVyMgVLSnDmMYY+Ijxhr2HvgKRiUNVu0190.jpg
10.Jack up the lower assembly, align the hole and then tighten the crown bolt.
11.Torque the crown bolt to 108 lb ft.
12.Align cotter pin hole and replace cotter pin.
http://pstr-m05.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/00D/54/2A/5F/C2/Qg3jsDsgifMm5qHfFXzgsQpZZgFaA+q70190.jpg
13.Reinstall wheel.
14.Repeat for other side.

TORSION BAR
1.Measure distance on both sides for referance.
2.Jack front of Vehicross up (relieves pressure from torsion bars)
3.Adjuster bolt is located just inside of frame toward the rear section of the door.
http://pstr-m05.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/003/4A/7A/31/F2/xRBRSbNQxVvZozZ2gZj7qiI--zsh8TBe0190.jpg
http://pstr-m01.ygpweb.aol.com/data/00D/4F/2F/8D/DD/x3FY4PZ8Sy7OmsHeWMloRQhi6lEEuKiP0190.jpg
4.Turn the bolt clockwise to lift the front.
5.10-12 turns will lift aprox. 2-3 inches. Turn both sides equally.
6.Lower Vehicross and then remeassure.
7.Make adjustments as needed to get the desired hight and both sides even.
8.The last step is to have your Vehicross alignment corrected.
**You may also need to extend your rear bump stops to prevent wheel well damage.**

Here is the finished results. Note the increased clearance (tire pictured are 31").
Front
http://pstr-m04.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/00B/56/79/2F/CC/42iF6zjawSN5aTJOGDT6B8pOx38CWXRq0190.jpg
http://pstr-m04.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/003/4A/0A/FD/E8/eLl+Ded0loz0eAri8XQIa+vxCPMpUICQ0190.jpg
http://pstr-m04.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/00D/4E/8C/C1/E2/bGxlyGokqPRUYpL1XnDLWabD6BdJKx8K0190.jpg
Front with 15" ruler
http://pstr-m04.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/001/4C/1F/12/9C/hdHJ4h11JM8zumcikeKjJWCj+2OHXNdh0180.jpg
From rear
http://pstr-m04.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/002/3D/BE/D2/EE/C+ernscX2G5QXSKDs6tPxWLKyxyqCR-30190.jpg
Side with 15" ruler
http://pstr-m04.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/008/67/62/9C/CA/pwC7wxRusSUBRLlNwpKnb0-7RICxOp0e0190.jpg
http://pstr-m01.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/004/4E/A9/14/F6/AmZL7pjUqXwMkjlgNOCQiWjHG8-ZKKBC0190.jpg
The end results...;Dy;
http://pstr-m01.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/008/07/45/70/7C/XahQAIP7tQvr76WGXSE+ZaK3JrWOeGw40258.jpg

[SPAZZ]

Say goodbye to tight hairpin cornering!!!

but enjoy offroad;Dp;




btw- your springs don't quite give 3"s, do they?

[Leah]

These are amazing photos and step-by-step instructions. Having never been under the VX before, I still feel as if I could do this myself if I wanted to because of your excellent format of simplicity. This is one for the manual!

[Moncha]

I agree with Leah, great job!

[niv_d]

After doing this procedure several times I must say that this is an excellent description! And very helpful pictures.
2 suggestions if I may add:
Disconnecting the stabilizer from the rear axel before pulling out the shocks.
Using a jack under the lower A arm to support it before disconnecting the ball joint (so it wouldn’t drop too low)
Great job of documenting the procedure! :thumbup:

[Triathlete]

Thanks! It is a very easy procedure (I am EXTREMELY mechanically disfunctional). I actually did use the jack under the "A" arm since I didn't want to damage the brake lines.
Not sure of the exact amount of lift...I sort of forgot to measure before I started:mbrasd:. Thanks to everyone on the board who inspired me to attempt this on my own. Bob (VXCAVER) thanks for stopping by and keeping me company! Not much into fast turns...but most deffinately will enjoy the extra benifits when off roading! Testing it out next weekend (Here (http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=13760#post13760)) and your all invited;Dy; :thumbup:

[VXcaver]

(I am EXTREMELY mechanically disfunctional).

Naw, it didn't show! I'm callin' on you when its time for my lift! I'll need to borrow that giant hammer, too!

[SPAZZ]

DON"T FORGET to get the alignment done after you do this...as your camber has changed....

[TucsonVX]

Like the info Billy

Will be doing the same mods soon.

[VCAMILO]

It took me about 5.5 hrs due to the fact that I did not have all the tools listed. I assumed my buddy had all of that in his garage. I was missing the 22mm and 19mm wrenches (20 bucks). So I waisted 10 minutes looking for tools and 30 minute driving to buy the wrenches. An hour later I was using a rubber hammer.rods, rocks, car jacks, etc... to try to get the arm loose from the ball joint. NOTHING WORKED!!! So after one hour I drove another 30 minutes to buy the 4lb hammer (12 bucks). With the hammer it only took 1 minute. :rolleyes: With all the tools and a friend I could have done it under 2 hours. Pictures? Pictures? they are coming. I'm getting my All Terrain tires put on today. ;Dr;

[VX922]

Nice job

[kpaske]

Am I the only one who can't see all the pictures in this howto? I would like to do the ball joint flip, and this description is awesome, but I can only see about half the pics.

Is it just me, or have the links gone down?

[Triathlete]

All links are on the same host (AOL). Try right clicking on them and then click "show picture". Hopefully that will work.

[kpaske]

Nope, I tried that and I still can't see them. I even tried copying the URL to another browser page and they won't come up that way either. Funny thing is that I see about half of them, but the other ones (and it's always the same ones) give me that icon with the red X.

Maybe someone who can see them could save the webpage and zip it with the files and e-mail it to me? Puhlease?

[Triathlete]

Hmmm, I don't know whats up with thathttp://www.wheelingarizona.com/forums/images/smiles/headscratch.gif

[RodeoSport]

I looked at the same article for the first time and also have the same issue of many pictures not displaying. Pasting the URL for the missing pictures to another window gives an AOL error that the picture is not there. AOL must have deleted or moved the picture since it was originally posted. The reason many of you still see the pictures is because the files where cached to your computer after looking at them the first time. The picture files are loading from your computer, not the AOL server.

BTW, very informative and nicely done article. Too bad many of the pictures aren't displaying.

[kpaske]

Triathlete -

Thanks for sending me the complete set of pictures. I took the liberty to reconstruct the page and host the pics on my site also, for the benefit of anyone else who can't see them. I hope you don't mind.

Here is the link: Triathlete's VX Lift Howto (http://kpaske.shacknet.nu/public/vxlift.htm)

[Tone]

Thanks for doing that! Has anyone documented the front axle drop bracket change that is important for lifted VXes to help save the CVs? I hear it is pretty involved but doable. Darlington is working on more sets if anyone is interested.

[kpaske]

No problem, Tone. I'm thinking about writing a few HowTo's of mine own, and if need be, I'll mirror some of the other great HowTo's that are out there. This weekend I replaced my fuel filter and am about to clean out my EGR valve/tube. Since I noticed there aren't any really good HowTo's for these, I'm taking pictures along the way. I'm not much of a mechanic, but I'm not afraid to dig into something if I've got a good set of illustrated instructions in front of me. Hopefully these will help out some of the other less-mechanically inclined VX owners who would like to learn more about our beloved vehicle.