blew out my CV Joint

[killinformula]

Well was playing around in the mud after the rain and she is blown, the boot cut open and i can reach my hand in there and move parts around... no good!

It is the drivers side. Where do I buy one to put in the car? I followed all the how to's and am ready to go and try to replace it, but i cant find anyone who has a CV.

Your help is much appreciated, i cant drive to campus till she is fixed and i hate the bus!

Braden

[Triathlete]

Factory CV's will run you close to $500 each new...ouch. I am running Empi's. They don't have a VX specific CV but the trooper ones work. I got them on Amazon for about $70 each. The quality is deffinately better than what you will get from autozone, checkers, etc...they sale remanufactured CV's. The Empi's are all new. So far, about 2 months, they are working well. Haven't had them off road yet to give them a good testing though:bwgy:

[RickOKC]

Would this be something that should be replaced as a pair?

[RamAirZ]

If RCV can't come through with something I plan on buying the EMPI shafts, and if I do I'll be giving them a good testing in October :laughing:

[killinformula]

Factory CV's will run you close to $500 each new...ouch. I am running Empi's. They don't have a VX specific CV but the trooper ones work. I got them on Amazon for about $70 each. The quality is deffinately better than what you will get from autozone, checkers, etc...they sale remanufactured CV's. The Empi's are all new. So far, about 2 months, they are working well. Haven't had them off road yet to give them a good testing though:bwgy:

would you by any chance have a year range for the trooper or even better a part number?

also, is there anything special about the drivers side CV i have to know, or is it the same procedure as the passenger side?

PS... i am kind of excited i blew my cv, it will now be my first real project on the vcross!! i will be sure to take plenty of pics!

[RamAirZ]

empi part number 3619 is what you would need, 2 of those. Should be for any 95+ Trooper. Now mind you the "balls" are slightly smaller in the cages but they still work. Not sure how they will do offroad as they haven';t been tested yet but Billy is doing ok so far.

[killinformula]

empi part number 3619 is what you would need, 2 of those. Should be for any 95+ Trooper. Now mind you the "balls" are slightly smaller in the cages but they still work. Not sure how they will do offroad as they haven';t been tested yet but Billy is doing ok so far.

need 2? in other words replacing both sides is necessary? is this what you are saying i need two of?
http://www.amazon.com/Empi-Constant-Velocity-Complete-Assembly/dp/B000JZH3HY/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1284006634&sr=1-10

Also thank you for the replies!!!

[Triathlete]

Yes, that is the correct part and you do not need to do both sides if only 1 is bad. Procedure is the same for both sides. Have fun!:bwgy:

[killinformula]

and there is no difference between the left and right cv joint, as in the actual part? all auto parts stores here are saying they only have for the passenger side, are they interchangeable?

[RamAirZ]

The drivers side if different if you replace the inner portion of the axle with the "stub". The part number provided allows you to remove your CV's leaving the inner green cups intact and you put these inside your stock cups. Now if you wanted to replace the cups too then yes the drivers side would be different

[p_justin13]

has anyone had issues with removing the lower bolts on the lower ball joint when doing the replacement procedure. I had to cut the damn things out with a torch they were a pain in my arsh.

[Marlin]

has anyone had issues with removing the lower bolts on the lower ball joint when doing the replacement procedure. I had to cut the damn things out with a torch they were a pain in my arsh.

Mine took some "Coaxing" and my VX has cancer pretty bad.

[RamAirZ]

That sucks, the nuts were "stuck" on there pretty good? Mine came right out, pressed the lower ball joint out with a puller tool then unbolted it.

[Marlin]

That sucks, the nuts were "stuck" on there pretty good? Mine came right out, pressed the lower ball joint out with a puller tool then unbolted it.

Puller? I just hit it once with a BFH and it pops out.:smack:

[RamAirZ]

Mine wasn't as easy, but the puller took all of 15 seconds to pop it off. That and I don't like hitting the stud of the joint with a BFH, if you screw up the threads, good luck getting a nut back on lol. I've had to grind down the stud on them before and rethread one when that happened, even using the nut as a protector it can still booger up the threads

[JHarris1385]

Are you sure you really need to get new ones. 100% certain you are feeling bits or parts that mean it is broke? I have torn a boot and stuck my hand in it to feel the shaft and or other pieces. All I needed was a new boot.

[Marlin]

Mine wasn't as easy, but the puller took all of 15 seconds to pop it off. That and I don't like hitting the stud of the joint with a BFH, if you screw up the threads, good luck getting a nut back on lol. I've had to grind down the stud on them before and rethread one when that happened, even using the nut as a protector it can still booger up the threads

Not on the threads silly, just hit the casting, it will pop the ball joint right out of the lower control arm.

[RamAirZ]

I was talking about removing it from the spindle lol. When I unbolted mine from the control arm I just pulled it off

[Marlin]

I was talking about removing it from the spindle lol. When I unbolted mine from the control arm I just pulled it off

I know that, I am talking about getting it off the spindle as well, just whack it with a hammer and they pop out. The guys at the Spring Zu meet showed me that as I was struggling to try and get it free with a fork. He alked up, grabbed, Manuel, my 3lb sledge, and whack, it came free. Its how I do it every time now:)

[RamAirZ]

huh, I'll have to try that next time. I had my puller tool handy and it worked quick too, used the mini-sledge on the uppers though. You talking about whacking the spindle where it goes through down there?

[LittleBeast]

Are you sure you really need to get new ones. 100% certain you are feeling bits or parts that mean it is broke? I have torn a boot and stuck my hand in it to feel the shaft and or other pieces. All I needed was a new boot.

Yes, I have experienced the same thing while mudding. My cage that holds all the balls in place just exploded in half. And then a few months later my other side fell out while driving (I think I broke that one as well, haha). I got one from a trooper, but it would click and skip while turning in 4Hi because the balls were smaller diameter, anyone with the trooper ones experience this as well?

[RamAirZ]

so they skipped therefore weren't turning the front wheels?

[killinformula]

Are you sure you really need to get new ones. 100% certain you are feeling bits or parts that mean it is broke? I have torn a boot and stuck my hand in it to feel the shaft and or other pieces. All I needed was a new boot.


its not so much the feeling, it is the being capable of moving them around with my finger, they slide up and down the shaft... I need to replace the boot on the other side, and i even reached into that side and checked it out, it is solid, the driver side id like playing with marbles (the ball bearings of course)

[killinformula]

Yes, I have experienced the same thing while mudding. My cage that holds all the balls in place just exploded in half. And then a few months later my other side fell out while driving (I think I broke that one as well, haha). I got one from a trooper, but it would click and skip while turning in 4Hi because the balls were smaller diameter, anyone with the trooper ones experience this as well?

please explain this so called "skipping", kinda of making me feel uneasy lol.

Also are there any pics or detailed descriptions on the lower ball joint and how to remove it? I assume it is as well is going to have to come off...

Lastly, if i order the part i posted in an earlier response do i separate it to be able to install it into my green cup looking part?

When I do this i am going to take a million pics and make it very descriptive...

[LittleBeast]

please explain this so called "skipping", kinda of making me feel uneasy lol.

Also are there any pics or detailed descriptions on the lower ball joint and how to remove it? I assume it is as well is going to have to come off...

Lastly, if i order the part i posted in an earlier response do i separate it to be able to install it into my green cup looking part?

When I do this i am going to take a million pics and make it very descriptive...

The skipping for me was just like you could tell that the balls were rotating around when they shouldn't be. This might not be the case on a brand new unit mine was used.

Lower ball joint is easy, as with any bolts on the VX that need to be moved just start soaking it with PB Blaster (http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=pb+blaster) the days before you try to break it loose and normally you won't have too many problems.

All these pics and descriptions are already avaliable for the "front diff drop brackets" or the "CV boot installation", all you have to do extra is undo the wheels hubs which is a few allen bolts and a c clip, you can figure that one out easily. Talk to Tom4bren if you cannot find them on here or on the isuzu planet website's. Really is an easy project just a little messy at times, buy LOTS of shop towels and brake cleaner for the CV grease clean up :)