Superflexy install, diff drop and preservation [Text View]

Marlin

11/21/2010, 06:29 AM

Well, I finished my finals yesterday and I am not starting calcII till January. That gives me time to work on the VX again (beyond my normal dedication anyway).
I am going to install the Superflexy kit, drop the front diff and in the spirit of Buffy's amazing work, do some more POR15 preservation on the front axle, control arms and frame rails. I will try and do a picture write up for the kit install. It may be a bit more difficult since I am doing the diff drop at the same time. Well, its supposed to be 75 degrees today and 80 on Tuesday. Might as well get to work, hopefully be done by next weekend.

Marlin

11/21/2010, 09:56 AM

Today's goal is met. I got both CVs out, those mecatech boots are garbage. The one that wasn't torn, is already showing signs of cracking. Complete waste of a 125 bucks. I am sticking to generic boots from now on. Much cheaper. Hopefully with the diff drop, I won't have to worry about it anymore.

The CVs look good, I kept greasing them weekly while the boots were torn. I tried to stay out of the mud too..that is harder for me than you would think.
Although I have been running around on 30" ATs, which look ridiculous with the amount of lift I have...but it is peppy and steers a lot better. Didn't notice any kind of braking difference?

I will take the axles into local hobby shop and use their parts cleaner to clean em up all shiny again. I will paint the center parts of the shaft red...to match the axle tube and diff. I plan on POR15 the axle tube and diff, then caliper red the whole thing. I find that caliper paint is pretty good stuff. It handles high temps and grease very well and it dries very quick.

I may grind the diff brackets down and paint those today as well...but probably not, the xbox 360 is calling my name very seductively. Kinect is the best invention ever.
I figure I can be done by Friday, just in time to take the wife shopping and start putting up xmas lights.

Marlin

11/21/2010, 11:01 AM

II went ahead and yanked out the fender splash shields as well. Now I know how to adjust the door hinges...those parts are readily accessible if you remove the splash shields. Now I can fix my wife's door on the RS:)

Bob Barker

11/21/2010, 03:25 PM

Without the wheel wells in there, are you not worried about junk getting flung into the engine bay?

Marlin

11/21/2010, 04:15 PM

Without the wheel wells in there, are you not worried about junk getting flung into the engine bay?

Nope, its not open to the engine bay, its open to the inside of the fender.

Ascinder

11/21/2010, 04:16 PM

I've been trash talking the Mechatechs for quite awhile now. I don't know why some people think they're so great. I guess it must be the emperors new clothes theory. If they cost the most, they must be the best right? FWIW when I still had my IFS installed I bought about 10 or more different sets of aftermarket boots to do my own evaluation of their performance. Some were almost identical to mechatechs but made of different compounds. One set was even gray. I got all the different types from Rockauto.com. I figured it would be better to spend the same amount as a set of mechatechs and get 10 different sets even if they did all tear eventually. I never got the chance to try them out and ended up giving them all to Clint(Crncnn) when I pulled my IFS.

Marlin

11/21/2010, 06:09 PM

pbkid

11/21/2010, 10:44 PM

Marlin

11/22/2010, 04:58 AM

chris-

why did you get rid of your 'splash guards'??

you know your gonna dent the S#@T outta your fenders if your tires pick up any rocks at all... (which im sure they do, since they are AT's)... just FYI

With 34" MT tires, once the flexy kit is installed, the tire will tuck up in there so much that it will catch the splash guard, which if you are moving at any speed, may rip it out of there, bending the fender all to ****.
I had mentioned this on the SFIFS thread, Bigmeat confirmed my suspicion that his had to be removed as well.
I don't often drive in gravel, and I am going to bed liner the inside of the fender, which is surprisingly rust free. That will help prevent dents.
She isn't a DD anymore, I drive the F250 and the wife drives the RS. Minimal road time=less chance for damage.

Marlin

11/22/2010, 02:38 PM

Got the crossmember out, gournd down the diff drops and painted em, red is drying right now. I drained the front diff, and since I am a dummy, I forgot to disconnect the prop shaft prior to removing the wheels and CVs. PITA to break those bolts loose with a strap wrench.
Tomorrow I will pull down the axle, get the CVs ready for install on Thanksgiving or friday. Should be all buttoned up by sunday...I hope.

Marlin

11/23/2010, 02:16 PM

Diff drops are dry, spent the last few hours cleaning up 4 CV joints. They were all immaculate once I got all the grease out. Only one mecatech boot made it through the inspection, but it is looking bad around the inner tie. It was still sealed tight though, so no problems dunking it in the parts washer. I am in the process of priming and painting now...anything to avoid dropping the axle. Tomorrow, I will have no choice but to bring it down. Hope my finger doesn't end up like Justin's....

Marlin

11/23/2010, 02:32 PM

Some pics of what I have done so far:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMGP1698.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMGP1699.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMGP1697.JPG

tom4bren

11/23/2010, 03:16 PM

Chris,

You will probably need to trim a little of the leading edge on the passenger side of the modified differential bracket. Where the edge curves inward, there was some interference with a bolt on the differential when I tried to install mine. It just depends on how much drop you added to the brackets and it doesn't interfere by much (about 1/4 inch). It's much easier to grind that down before installation than during especially if you want to hit that raw metal with some paint.

Tom

IIRC, this is where I had to trim the curve on mine.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/Marlin_s_diff_drop_2.jpg

JHarris1385

11/23/2010, 04:12 PM

Yup I have tho cut off quite a bit of mine and big weld spots.

Marlin

11/23/2010, 05:23 PM

Chris,

You will probably need to trim a little of the leading edge on the passenger side of the modified differential bracket. Where the edge curves inward, there was some interference with a bolt on the differential when I tried to install mine. It just depends on how much drop you added to the brackets and it doesn't interfere by much (about 1/4 inch). It's much easier to grind that down before installation than during especially if you want to hit that raw metal with some paint.

Tom

IIRC, this is where I had to trim the curve on mine.

Thanks, I will fit it up on the ground and see how it fits on there. Joe D did the cut and weld, I did the grinding and finishing. Hopefully it fits just fine. If not, no biggie. I will rebuild the CVs tomorrow in preps for install. Still can't believe its in the mid 70s...

BigSwede

11/24/2010, 07:45 AM

tom4bren

11/24/2010, 07:54 AM

Thanks, I will fit it up on the ground and see how it fits on there. Joe D did the cut and weld, I did the grinding and finishing. Hopefully it fits just fine.

You didn't show a pic of the inside of the brackets. Did you grind all of the weld lines flat in there? The axle flange needs to seat flat against the bracket.

Marlin

11/24/2010, 09:36 AM

Why, you live in friggin' South Carolina for chrissakes...:bgwb:
We are under a Winter Weather Advisory today, 3-4 inches of snow tonight and hopefully not much freezing rain before the snow.

This time last year I spent 3 or 4 days hanging christmas lights, I was wearing coat, gloves, hat, freezing my *** off. Definitely too warm for this time of year.
Anyway why would you clean all the grease out of your CV joints? Are you just trying to make work for yourself? :p

I cleaned the grease out since I had all torn boots, and I wheeled with em that way at uwharrie. I am sure there was dirt and whatnot. The solvent based parts cleaner is free to use on base:) Grease is cheap, CVs are not.

You didn't show a pic of the inside of the brackets. Did you grind all of the weld lines flat in there? The axle flange needs to seat flat against the bracket.

I did grind all the welds flat on the inside face. Hopefully its actually flat and gets a good seal. Isn't the axle seal the actual fluid sealing surface? Maybe I will put some RTV along the seating surface as well just in case the axle seal leaks.

I just borrowed Halo Reach from a friend at work,its very hard to decide to work on the truck right now...

tom4bren

11/24/2010, 10:30 AM

[COLOR="Red"]I did grind all the welds flat on the inside face. Hopefully its actually flat and gets a good seal. Isn't the axle seal the actual fluid sealing surface? Maybe I will put some RTV along the seating surface as well just in case the axle seal leaks.

Yes, the axle seal is what controls the fluid retention. There's no need for RTV (other than peace of mind). The flat surface isn't hyper critical, just good sense.

Marlin

11/24/2010, 10:53 AM

Yes, the axle seal is what controls the fluid retention. There's no need for RTV (other than peace of mind). The flat surface isn't hyper critical, just good sense.

Gotcha, that is what I was thinking, I think I will RTV it anyway. Its already apart and I have a ton of RTV from the locker install.

Marlin

11/25/2010, 09:03 AM

Since Halo reach sucked, which took me 3 hours of playing to figure out:) I decided to drop the axle this morning. Not so bad, I even got it out without taking the steering linkage apart. Putting it back in, thats a whole new story...

I used the HF soda blaster to blast the whole thing down. Best toy ever!!!! Worked like a champ. Took about 15lbs of baking soda to get it cleaned up. 10 years worth of grime, dirt, grease, rust, gone in about 15 minutes or so. I should be able to start painting in about 20 minutes. I know it still looks rusty, but POR15 has to have rust on it to set properly. I had the blaster set to stun, or rather lowest concentration of media;) I also have the cleanest driveway on the block now. It is 100% environmentally friendly, so I just dragged it down by the curb and went to town.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMGP1701.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMGP1702.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMGP1703.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMGP1704.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMGP1706.JPG

Ldub

11/25/2010, 09:31 AM

It's fun to stay at the...wait for it...:uhohgray:

Y - M- http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/marlin_C.PNG (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=19389) - A

Back on topic...:rolleyesg

Nice job...:thumbup:

Marlin

11/25/2010, 10:27 AM

It's fun to stay at the...wait for it...:uhohgray:

Y - M- http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/marlin_C.PNG - A

Back on topic...:rolleyesg

Nice job...:thumbup:

Nice! I spent the better part of the last hour looking for my cans of POR15. The wife had been threatening to throw them away if I didn't put them up for the last several months. She is at work, so I can't ask. I finally gave up and used high temp engine primer to primer the damn thing. While that was drying, I went ahead and removed the passenger side axle and installed the new bracket.
Put the first coat of red on, letting it dry now. Then I will go ahead and mount up the passenger side. While the second coat is drying, I will yank the driver's side out...not the fun one. Its a PITA to get the axle bearing off. I also have to make sure I don't damage the axle seal, those things are like 40 bucks IIRC from replacing em when I did the locker install.:(

Marlin

11/25/2010, 10:29 AM

After looking at the pics, I noticed how bad the oil pan looked, so I went ahead and treated that with rust neutralizer, and I will paint it as I go along. My poor old girl looks horrible. most of it is mud, but damn, its pathetic.

Marlin

11/25/2010, 11:36 AM

Oil pan is done, and I used rubber undercoating, neat stuff. GOt the brackets mounted up, no problems with the bearings and seals. Will try to put it back in tomorrow, gotta let the paint cure.
Then I get to start on the flexy kit install. I know there are some that are lurking waiting for those pics. I will have some flex pics up hopefully by Sunday.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMGP1707.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMGP1708.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMGP1709.JPG

VXorado

11/25/2010, 11:47 AM

Nice lookin' axle :thumbup:

This thread reminds me of all the work my front end needs before next summer, PITA but gotta pay to play

Marlin

11/25/2010, 11:50 AM

Nice lookin' axle :thumbup:

This thread reminds me of all the work my front end needs before next summer, PITA but gotta pay to play

Yep, Buffy was the fire to get this done. That and there are a bunch of folks waiting to see the IFS kit in action!!!

Marlin

11/27/2010, 06:53 AM

Yesterday we went shopping, and it rained all day and last night. Now its too cold, I did get a tarp set up, and filled the diff with oil, too cold to try futzing around with it now. I will wait till after lunch when its in the 60s:) I am going to go ahead and start on the IFS kit prior to putting the axle in, that way if I find anything I need help with, I can get a buddy to help me all at once. I will probably need a hand getting the axle up there, at least getting the bolts started. Stay tuned for afternoon pics.

Marlin

11/27/2010, 11:28 AM

Been working for about 1 hour, got the rear brackets off, relocated fuel line, trying to get the damned front spline couplings off....grrrrr. Had 4 different pry/chisels jamed in there. Its backed off about 1/2" or so. I wish I knew how far I need to go. Now I am heading to Pepboys to get a 26mm impact socket and some bigger pry/chisels. If it wasn't for these getting stuck, I would probably be in the install portion already. Its actually not that bad, as long as you have the right tools.

Marlin

11/27/2010, 01:41 PM

After two trips to the parts store to get sockets, I thought the torsion bar bolt was 26mm, which is also what the instructions say, they are actually 27mm...grrr.

I just gave up for today, I can't get either torsion bar bolt to move, I tried a 3 foot cheater bar, ran the impact wrench till it was smoking...notta, on either side. Not sure what to do now. I can guess I can try cutting the head off the bolt? Its not under load as far as the weight of the truck goes, but I am a bit hesitant to try that, but at this point, I don't know what else to do.
Anyway, here are a few pics:

What comes in the box:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMGP1714.JPG

Pieces that you remove:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMGP1710.JPG

The kit goes above this crossmember, and under the drive shaft
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMGP1711.JPG

Splines exposed...finally.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMGP1713.JPG

Ldub

11/27/2010, 04:24 PM

Splines exposed...finally.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMGP1713.JPG[/CENTER]

No PB blaster on the splines...:confused:

Marlin

11/27/2010, 05:26 PM

I did spray em down afterwards for the reinstall, really no way to get it in there prior to removal.

vt_maverick

11/27/2010, 08:49 PM

Hmmm... I wonder how much faster this would go if you weren't practically tweeting your progress every hour. ;) J/k, more than a few of us have forgotten to take pics as we went, leaving others in the dark when they try it themselves.

Looking good!

Ldub

11/27/2010, 09:00 PM

I did spray em down afterwards for the reinstall, really no way to get it in there prior to removal.

That's why it's called penetrating oil. You douche everything down a day or two in advance, then an hour or two before you turn a wrench, to make life easier...:yesgray:

Marlin

11/28/2010, 10:01 AM

Well, after breaking a breaker bar, I got out the old Craftsman pro series 1/2" drive. Using that, an extension so I could reach the bolt and a 4 foot pipe, got em out. Only to realize I am missing page 4 of the install instructions!!! I am trying to puzzle it out, but damn, its not as simple as you would think. He spent some serious time measuring and engineering this thing. Now I am on pause awaiting his email.

Marlin

11/28/2010, 01:21 PM

Now we are getting somewhere. Got it all mounted up, I think my exhaust may end up being a problem. I have a flowmaster 40 in there, and the flange lines up perfectly with the IFS kit:( I just used a pry bar to get it in there. We will see. Off to the parts store to get a 1.5" open end box wrench...thought I had everything.
Won't be able to test it till next weekend, gotta get the axle in first. Supposed to rain tomorrow and tuesday.

Marlin

12/04/2010, 02:43 PM

Shew, finally got it done, kind of. The truck is drivable. Still need to level out the front end, and I have some clacking, but I think its cause my CVs are at a negative angle right now, or it could be something rubbing, not sure...I am beat, it took about 5 hours to get the axle back up, the cvs in, the ifs kit tightened up (which I think I will have to reindex the passenger side torsion bar, that should take a good 30 minutes or so) Hopefully the clacking goes away, or else I will be taking the drivers side cv out and checking on what is going on in there.
Final tally, 1 broken 3/8 drive craftsman ratchet, one broken 1/2" drive pro series craftsman ratchet, one broken 1/2" drive breaker bar (HF junk) two cans of liquid wrench, 2 quarts of royal purple gear oil, couple cans of primer and engine paint, 3 cans of duplicote rubber spray, multiple bruises and bloody knuckles. I should be ready for uwharrie next weekend. I did try to pull the pin on the IFS kit, no way that thing is coming out, gotta figure out whats up with that.
Here are a few pics, its amazing how much of a difference there is between stock size tires and the 34s:)

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMGP1717.JPG[/CENTER

][CENTER]http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMGP1718.JPG

Marlin

12/04/2010, 02:46 PM

And this post is just for Ldub:

Cliffnote version, took some stuff apart, put some stuff together, I am practically done.
Volume two will be out tomorrow.

Ldub

12/04/2010, 08:24 PM

And this post is just for Ldub:

Cliffnote version, took some stuff apart, put some stuff together, I am practically done.
Volume two will be out tomorrow.

Next time, write a post-it "note to self" & stick it to your tool box...:smilewink

"Self: wait till I'm done, then post a cohesive, readable, not chopped into little bits, actual how to"...:thumbup:

Also, learn the function of PB blaster...:yesgray:

Marlin

12/04/2010, 08:30 PM

Next time, write a post-it "note to self" & stick it to your tool box...:smilewink

"Self: wait till I'm done, then post a cohesive, readable, not chopped into little bits, actual how to"...:thumbup:

Also, learn the function of PB blaster...:yesgray:

I understand, if it was something lame like a simple lift, or roof rack install, I would wait, but since so many folks are waiting on the IFS kit info, this is a hot topic, kind of like the release date of the Red Dawn remake...:)
It also gave me a chance to take a break and step back a few minutes at a time.
As for PB blaster, its a generic term I use, kind of like Q tip or Kleenex. It was actually one can of WD40, and one can of Liquid Wrench. :embarasse

As for the toolbox, whats that? Is it like the tarp in the driveway with the pile of tools in it? :bgwb:

Ldub

12/04/2010, 08:33 PM

I understand, if it was something lame like a simple lift, or roof rack install, I would wait, but since so many folks are waiting on the IFS kit info, this is a hot topic, kind of like the release date of the Red Dawn remake...:)
It also gave me a chance to take a break and step back a few minutes at a time.
As for PB blaster, its a generic term I use, kind of like Q tip or Kleenex. It was actually one can of WD40, and one can of Liquid Wrench. :embarasse

As for the toolbox, whats that? Is it like the tarp in the driveway with the pile of tools in it? :bgwb:

Aight thain...we'll be waiting for the updates on the quarter hour...:yesgray:

Marlin

12/05/2010, 06:08 AM

"Self: wait till I'm done, then post a cohesive, readable, not chopped into little bits, actual how to"...:thumbup:

I think we had a miscommunication. This was never meant to be a how-to, that is already done by Phines. I actually used his with a few minor changes. I have some photos to add to his write up and some suggestions.
This was just to give you guys something to look at and something to read. :badhorse:

Marlin

12/05/2010, 09:13 AM

Done.

I ended up lifting 3 inches. The rear sits about 3/4 inch higher than the front. Not as high as I had it before, it was completely level. My ride isn't as stiff as before, I kind if miss the bone jarring bumps.
I ended up not indexing the passenger side. I still have about 2/3 of the nut with threads. I think it will be fine, but if I need to, I can. (the nut is like 1.5" long)
The clacking went away as well. Once the CVs were level, no problems. My CVs are now just out of level, much better than the ridiculous angle they were before the drop. I would have to work pretty hard to break one now.

The pin seems looser now that I have the truck leveled out. Still haven't pulled it. Now I have to make my new crossmember, or mod the existing one. Then the worst thing ever, clean out the garage. It is so bad right now that it isn't even usable.

On a side note, I don't think lowering the VX via torsion bars would be a good idea. It would ride like garbage. Way to soft.

phines

12/05/2010, 03:45 PM

Nice job Marlin. Do you have any additional pictures you can send me from the SFIFS install? I'll combine everything into one set of instructions that others can download from the site.

Marlin

12/05/2010, 04:09 PM

Yep, I will put them together. I do have a question. The drivers side zerk fitting is clearly visible on the square plate that the torsion bar key sits in. On the passenger side, its not visible and inside the confines of the torsion bar key. Seems to me they should be symmetrical? Just wondering, I haven't tried the pin pulled, but both torsion bars are lined up appropriately.

As far as suggestions, I would recommend that the torsion bars be on their forward mounting bolts prior to aligning the keys. I would also recommend that the keys be aligned such that they are leaned toward the inboard vice vertical. Especially if you are going to lift the truck. Otherwise you run into the reindexing that I might have to do. I figure 99% of those that would use this will be lifted 2-4" in the front.
I will get everything together once I test it next weekend.

Ascinder

12/05/2010, 06:47 PM

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMGP1709.JPG

+

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMGP1714.JPG

+

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMGP1718.JPG

=

Jamaican VX?

Triathlete

12/05/2010, 06:57 PM

But without the diff it would be a John Dear...
...Or get rid of the VX and its beginning to look a lot like Christmas...

...Mon!:bwgy:

Marlin

12/05/2010, 07:04 PM

Well, I did wash all the baking soda off of it today, and finally treat the bed liner. Looks like a new truck again. I am still trying to get used to the front not being as high. It also rides a lot softer. I may lift it back up after URE and then lower it in the spring for Moab. Although it does just sit in the driveway most of the time now:(

vt_maverick

12/05/2010, 09:23 PM

Rofl... nice Ascinder. Marlin you going to get another red Isuzu emblem for your hood to complete the color scheme before Uwharrie?

While we're talking about colors... anybody know why BigMeat chose that godawful shade of green? Looks like the color of our school desks from the 1960's. ;puke: