New Owner - ?'s about CV joint, TOD, etc.

[RedBlur]

Hi all -

I just picked up my VX this past weekend and I am loving it. I own a Honda s2000 and a Lexus sc300 and this ranks right up there in the fun to drive category. I don't even mind the fact that I am on pace for about 10 mpg out of this last tank (I have been having fun tearing through the roads after the ice storms we have been getting this week, hopefully the novelty wears off before it gets too expensive).

Anyway, she needs a little work to get back to full strength, and I was hoping you guys could help me figure a few things out. Just to get everyone grounded, it is a 2000 VX with ~90,000 miles on it, 3" lift, superwinch hubs on the front.

First, the front passenger CV boot is torn. I'm getting a little steering wheel shimmy and I have no idea how long it has been like that before I bought it, so I am planning on replacing the entire joint. I'm new to lifted vehicles, so I was wondering if a 3" lift necessitated a custom CV joint, or if I can just use a stock replacement. Can anyone suggest a place to get them from?

Regarding the TOD, I *think* it is working correctly, but am not entirely sure and wanted to see what you all thought. For the most part it is showing no power to the front wheels when stopped and at very slow speeds. Anything over about 5-10 mph has the first bar lit up for both wheels. Every once in a while I can get it to show all three bars on both wheel, but usually only for a split second after a sudden acceleration. I have never been able to get one front wheel to receive different power than the other, they are always the same. I also don't seem to be able to get any more power out of the front wheels once I am moving no matter what stupid things I do, and believe me I have been trying. I have been trying to slide around in the parking lot at work, driving through an icy patch on one side of the car, etc. and nothing seems to change it.

That said, the performance is about what I would expect, it grips pretty well and recovers quickly when I try to slide it around. There was only one time I was worried, which was when I drove it back this weekend through Indianapolis during the snow/wind storms. The roads were terrible, and I was in the far left lane which was very close to where the roads hadn't been cleared at all. I must have caught the edge of the deep snow or been pushed into it from the wind, but I completely lost steering and was dragged to the left further into the deep snow. I would have expected it to redistribute the power at this point to help me get some control back but it didn't. At the same time, once I noticed that I was sliding I immediately let off the accelerator and coasted without hitting the breaks until I could regain control.

So I'm not sure if that is normal operation or not. I initially thought that it should have applied power to the passenger side since that had grip and could have given me steering, but when I was discussing it with my friend we decided that probably just would have torqued the entire VX to the left. So I am a little at a loss. But my thoughts are that feedback is there for a reason, and it just hasn't been lighting up as much as I would expect.

The last question I have is regarding a "clunking" that I feel intermittently when stopping or accelerating. Right after I come to a complete stop the car will sometimes jolt forward just a tad, almost like the back tires are slipping. Sometimes it makes a similar clunk when I first hit the accelerator. It never does it both times, just one or the other. and it doesn't occur too often, maybe about 10% of the time since I have been driving it this week. Any thoughts on that? FYI my ABS light is on and I haven't diagnosed that yet, it also seems to work intermittently, so I don't know if that is somehow related. The wheels and tires are all the same on it, and from what the previous owner said, were all changed at the same time.

Sorry for the novel of a post. If any of you can help, I would appreciate it greatly. Thanks!

[Ldub]

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/search.php

WelComE...:smilewink

[RedBlur]

I already did a few searches, but didn't pull up the info I was looking for. If you know of any specific threads regarding the questions I had, I would definitely appreciate a link.

[JHarris1385]

Well first you are just a few minutes away from me. I live on the other side of the bridge. I assume your lift is a spring and crank and not body? Post your last four of your vin and the color. From there you could search if a member here had it and read if they had issues and what. Mine clunks into gear, but some clunking is fine and from what I have heard is from the lift. I hope someone else chimes in to see what they have to say.

The TOD works just like that. Powers the back primarily and then kicks in the front when needed. Just a minimal percent goes to the front during normal driving.

What is your wheel and tire set up?

[RedBlur]

Thanks JHarris, nice to meet you. I'll keep an eye out for you when I cross the river; I usually go for the Hooters there ;)

I did a few more searches on the clunking and pulled up some interesting info on greasing the u joints and yoke, also with the transmission mount bolts. I'll check into that when I get under it this weekend. I'll have to let you know about the tires when it is light out, I don't know what they are off the top of my head yet.

For the TOD does it *ever* apply power to one front wheel more than the other? When I was reading articles online it made it sound like this was the case, however I haven't been able to make that happen.

Thanks for the tip on searching by the VIN, I'll see what turns up there.

[pbkid]

hey redblur-
first off, welcome to the site. its a pretty tight family, so everyone is really friendly for the most part.

seems as though you VX is pretty standard regarding TOD. its not actually an AWD, but more of a active 4wd.

it can only distribute power forward and backwards, not side to side. so its normal to not have it pull you out of the snow. and the bars you see lighting up on your dash are either 100% rear, 75% rear/ 25% front, 50/50, or 75/25. The 75/25 is very rare in high gear, its usually only for a split second, like you said, to keep you from fishtailing.

im sure more of the other members will chime in with more detail, but i have to get up early for work, so im off :)

welcome again, glad your enjoying your new toy.

[VXorado]

Your CV boot is torn because of the lift and there aren't any options yet for aftermarket CVs. Some of the guys here are working with a company to make speciality CV joints for lifted vehicles but thats still in the development process. Search for "diff drop," thats the ultimate solution to fix CV problems. Finding stock CV replacements can be difficult but they're out there...

Good luck & welcome to the forums!!!

[circmand]

Your CV boot is torn because of the lift and there aren't any options yet for aftermarket CVs. Some of the guys here are working with a company to make speciality CV joints for lifted vehicles but thats still in the development process. Search for "diff drop," thats the ultimate solution to fix CV problems. Finding stock CV replacements can be difficult but they're out there...

Good luck & welcome to the forums!!!

awhile back on aftermarket CV joints. I beleive the title was the last CVs you will ever need maybe

[tom4bren]

RedBlur,

I think everyone covered your questions pretty well so I just have a couple of notes to add.

I can help you out with the diff drops if/when you decide to go that route. Turn around time is really slow because I only have 3 sets of differential brackets and have to wait for people to return their old ones to me for the next mod. Joe Darlington sells the modified brackets as well & you can find out more info on this by searching on "diff drop". That'll pull up several long threads so be prepared to do some reading.

As far as torque split side to side. Remember that you have a limited slip differential in the rear but an open differential in the front. That basically means that the rear tire with the most traction will get the power & the front tire with the least traction will get the power. That may 'splain the situation you were in when you went off the road.

Tom

[MSHardeman]

Redblur,

Welcome to the family. It seems like you're finding your way around the site well, but keep on asking questions. It helps you get information quickly, and it keeps us on our toes.

Sounds like most of your questions have been answered, but I'll put my two cents in here.

Depending on how long your CV boot has been torn will depend on what kind of damage, if any, has been done to the CV. My drivers side inner boot tore and I didn't take care of it and ended up having to have the joint refurbished. Enough grit and junk had made it's way into the joint and it ended up scaring the outer race which is part of the axle that connects to the third member. The axle had to be taken out, the pits and divots in the outer race had to be welded in, and then the whole thing was machined back to specs before it was all put back together. Wasn't cheap so I would suggest getting in there and replacing the boot as soon as you can. In doing all of that I was sourcing out parts in case I had to replace everything so I have a bunch of part numbers for you if you need them. EMPI makes replacement axles and CV joints that we can use. When you find out what you need to replace, if anything, let me know and I can get you enough CV info to make your head hurt.

Your TOD sounds like it's working normally. During normal driving, after about five to ten miles and hour the first light on the front wheels on the dash display should light up and stay lit until you come to a stop. The TOD only throws power forward, to both wheels at once, when the rear tires start to slip and then only for a split second. It never locks into four wheel drive. You have to do that manually.

I think the clunk you're hearing when you stop is fairly normal. Definitly get under there and grease the drive shaft and u-joints and that should quiet it down a little. As I come to a stop my transmission does one final downshift and I can feel the VX lurch. It's always done this, and others have had the same experience.

Glad you found your way here, and if you're like me you won't be wiping that smile off of your face for a long time to come.

[VXorado]

awhile back on aftermarket CV joints. I beleive the title was the last CVs you will ever need maybe

Yup thats the thread. The company is called RCV and currently there isn't a price or product. Hopefully that will change soon :yesb::yesb:

[JHarris1385]

Well the weather is terrible around here...but maybe getting better. If you can't get under there and replace the boot, at least duct tape it.

I wanted to know your tire and lift set up to visualize the angle of your CV's.
Still the vin, and color could allow us or you to possibly answer alot of questions by looking to see if the previous owner was a member here.

If you look into a diff drop or think about it...check mine out first. Or do you have a local welder you know of? I just took mine to a local guy (Salem, IN).

[tom4bren]

Dang. RedBlur - Ya jinxed me.

My son was driving the VX last night & said it was making a horrible noise from the front end. I just went out & checked it. The front outter CV on the drivers side went bye-bye.

The end of the shaft is completely out of the outer race. The cage and all of the balls are gone. The inner race looks OK but the end of the shaft is pretty chewed up. I stuck my finger in the outter race and there's a lot of sharp splinters in there so I didn't investigate it any further.

It was easy to pop off the boot on the inner CV and pull the retaining ring out. Turning the wheels all the way to the right gave me enough room to remove the shaft.

Bad time of the year to be running without 4WD but at least it's driveable now.

Hope RCV gets on the ball with those new shafts. I'll be calling them on Monday to light a fire under them. Definitely a higher priority for me now that I'm the one that needs them.:)

[Marlin]

Something no one has mentioned, if you have superwinch hubs on the front, TOD cannot send power to the front wheels unless the hubs are engaged. That would explain why you only get a flash of power to the front. That is TOD just trying to shift power to non-slipping wheels, but it sees them as slipping (if hubs are disengaged).

[CoastieCosta567]

welcome, just remember to always have with you the following items in ur VX at all times.

-Oil....
-Duct tape....
-Grease.....
-Grease Gun......
-First aid kit....
-And all the other stuff necessary in a vehicle.
-Oh and a strong bond with your VX Lady, cuz she can be a B***h at times.

But other then that, welcome again. :bgwo:

[JAMAS]

welcome, just remember to always have with you the following items in ur VX at all times.

-Oil....
-Duct tape....
-Grease.....
-Grease Gun......
-First aid kit....
-And all the other stuff necessary in a vehicle.
-Oh and a strong bond with your VX Lady, cuz she can be a B***h at times.

But other then that, welcome again. :bgwo:

...and a box to keep it all in.

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=18804

[Ebenezr]

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/DSC04514.JPG

Picture of my garage floor after I bought my VX......:) (just testing my picture posting)

[johnnyapollo]

Another thing to check on the noise - I had this problem and some others (JoeBlack) - there are two bolts the come up through the cross member into the back of the tranny - both of mine climbed out and were lost. It allows the tranny to shimmy from side to side. If they're gone, the small heat shield will be gone also (not that it's necessary but it's fairly inexpensive). It's hard to get the new bolts in without removing the cross member, so you'll need to support the tranny while you're under there, but otherwise it's not too bad a job.

-- John

[Ebenezr]

Check your transmission fluid level. I had some stumbling/stuttering in the rear which progressed to a in and out of gear problem when at a stop. I was 2 quarts low. To "check" the fluid you just add it by pumping it in through the top drain hole in the trans pan until it overflows. (Engine warm and in neutral).

[RedBlur]

Hey all -

Thanks for all the welcomes and great information. Sorry it took me a while to reply, yesterday was a packed day of work events and going out. On a side note JHarris, if you haven't already been to the new New Albanian on Bank St, it is nothing like the original. In fact, about the only thing it has in common is that it serves some of the same beers.

Anyway, back on topic. JHarris My tires are 265/70-18's, I'm pretty sure they are the stock wheels. Verified it is a suspension lift.

My driveway is a mess right now so I haven't been able to get under to check the transmission mount, but if the ice keeps thawing I may be able to get to it this afternoon or tomorrow.

Marlin, thanks for the heads-up on the locking hubs, that was actually the first thing I checked. Based on what everyone is saying, I think the TOD is working fine, just one of those things that I wanted to check.

I'll have to do more research on the diff drop for those that mentioned it. Right now the goal is to get through the winter without any problems and get the Lexus back running in the meantime. Come spring that becomes the daily driver which gives me time to work more on the VX :D

Tom4bren, sorry to hear about your luck! If you happen to find anything out from RCV please let me know.

MSHardeman, since I don't know how long the boot has been torn, I think I am just going to replace the entire joint. I read a thread somewhere that had a link for replacements that were ~$65. I was going to check that out and I figure at that price, even if it goes out on me again next year I won't be too upset.

Regarding the VIN, last 4 are 0627 and it is Proton Yellow. I'll search around and see what turns up.

Thanks again to everyone, I appreciate it greatly!!!

[Marlin]

MSHardeman, since I don't know how long the boot has been torn, I think I am just going to replace the entire joint. I read a thread somewhere that had a link for replacements that were ~$65. I was going to check that out and I figure at that price, even if it goes out on me again next year I won't be too upset.


Yep,you can get two aftermarket cvs for around 110, but they are no good for wheeling if you have a front locker. I busted two of em in two days on the trails. But for DD and light wheeling, they are fine.

I got mine from autopartswharehouse on ebay. THey sent me two brand new ones, no questions asked. Didn't even mail back my broken ones.

[JHarris1385]

My family owns Tubby's Pizza in Jeff, in the quadrangle, and I typically just stick to our pizza. Voted best in Clark County for a couple years running now. We used to get some beer from NABC, but not at the moment. We will again shortly.

Proton and lifted....what part of the Ville are you from? I normally hear from everybody when they see a new one around here. I know of two in Jeff, but they are almost not worth mentioning. One is green though.

If you plan to off road it, let me know. I do have my stock diffs if you plan to drop, you could use those to drop and then just give me your stocks in return. Search the forums for the dropped diff. It lowers the cv angle. I never have boot issues before but I figured I might as well, just in case. Nice tire size. I would just stick my finger in the cv and see what you feel. My guess would be it would not need to be replaced just yet. Just a new boot and grease.

[RedBlur]

Proton and lifted....what part of the Ville are you from? I normally hear from everybody when they see a new one around here. I know of two in Jeff, but they are almost not worth mentioning. One is green though.


I live on the south end of Louisville, Highview (near Okolona) if you know where that is. There is actually another Proton right near me, it's always at a BBQ restaurant, although I don't think it is lifted. I haven't seen any other around though.

I'll let you know about the diff drop. I appreciate the offer, if I do anything it will probably be later in the spring or summer, though. I still haven't even gotten under it, I've been way too lazy the last few days.

[JHarris1385]

That is Tysamigo on here... His family owns it.

[crager34]

Maybe we should get a little TRI state (Ohio, Kentucky, Indiana) meet together and compare notes. I bet we can find a place witin an hours drive for all of us.

[RedBlur]

Maybe we should get a little TRI state (Ohio, Kentucky, Indiana) meet together and compare notes. I bet we can find a place witin an hours drive for all of us.

Heck yea, that sounds like a good idea. That might be the kick in the pants I need to do some off-roading.

[tom4bren]

Dang. RedBlur - Ya jinxed me.

My son was driving the VX last night & said it was making a horrible noise from the front end. I just went out & checked it. The front outter CV on the drivers side went bye-bye.

The end of the shaft is completely out of the outer race. The cage and all of the balls are gone. The inner race looks OK but the end of the shaft is pretty chewed up. I stuck my finger in the outter race and there's a lot of sharp splinters in there so I didn't investigate it any further.

It was easy to pop off the boot on the inner CV and pull the retaining ring out. Turning the wheels all the way to the right gave me enough room to remove the shaft.

Bad time of the year to be running without 4WD but at least it's driveable now.

Hope RCV gets on the ball with those new shafts. I'll be calling them on Monday to light a fire under them. Definitely a higher priority for me now that I'm the one that needs them.:)

I musta been having a KAT moment. I didn't even think of the fact that it was the driver side front wheel that took the hit in the accident. Could it be related?

I've got a call into the insurance adjuster to see if there's any chance that insurance will buy me a new half shaft. I'll keep you posted.

[tom4bren]

WooHoo.

Insurance will pay for a new Drivers Side Half Shaft. If they can locate one, it lists at $938. Time to call RCV & see if they can accelerate the fab on that one ($900).

Tom