Tone hitch install

[Mile High VX]

I got my Tone hitch from Hotsauce (thanks John) and I have a few questions before I start the install:

1. How long will this take. I was a mechanic back in my college days so I'm not worried about the skills part.

2. I'm only planning on using the hitch for my bike rack at this point. Should I go ahead and wire up a connector while I have the bumper cover removed or is it an easy add later?

3. What is the best thing to cut the cladding with?

4. Do I really need to remove the tube bumper to cut the center out, or can I do that without removing it?

Thanks for the help.

[Bulldoggie]

it takes about an hour
the tube bumper will be in the way of drilling...
a jig saw cuts the cladding, go slow to keep the heat down
home page (this site) has a link to install pictures and instructions
yes the wires are easy to tap into without the cladding, save yourself removing twice

[vt_maverick]

Don't really get the concerns about heat when cutting the cladding, I used a Dremel to trim mine to fit the tires and the heat didn't affect anything.

[Bulldoggie]

the heat from fast cutting was not based on damage to the cladding but keeping the saw blade cleaner while cutting...
sorry if my posts are not clear enough.

[vt_maverick]

That wasn't aimed at you exclusively BD, I've read that comment many, many times from other members when describing their process for trimming their cladding.

[tom4bren]

I used a box cutter to cut my cladding. I felt that I had better control that way. You should see some of the results of my Dremel cuts:)

Yes, the tube bumper should be removed to cut the center section out. It'll only take a couple of minutes & will make the cut MUCH easier.

I didn't do the wiring when I did the hitch install because I just leave it coiled in the jack stowage compartment when not in use. I just run it out under the door when I need it.

Go out and purchase a new drill bit for your install. It'll cut an hour off of the install time from my experience.

[Mile High VX]

Thanks for all the tips and help.

It's been a challenge, but I'm almost done and will post a pic of the finished product later in the week.

A few issues that came up:

I broke all but one of the Christmas tree holders. In addition, where these mount to the inside of the cladding one of the holder housings broke off. Anyone know what type of adhesive works on our plastic cladding so I can reattach this?

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN0309.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN0308.JPG

The holes on the hitch did not line up with the holes in the frame so I had to drill all of the holes. In additon, the holes in the backplate were too high for the holes that I drilled in the front so I had to redrill those as well. I mounted the hitch as high up as it would go and still the backplate just didn't line up...:confused:

Cutting the cladding was a breeze and it mounts right up with a good clean finish.

Thanks again for the help.

[Bulldoggie]

The holes on the hitch did not line up with the holes in the frame so I had to drill all of the holes. In additon, the holes in the backplate were too high for the holes that I drilled in the front so I had to redrill those as well. I mounted the hitch as high up as it would go and still the backplate just didn't line up

I used a piece of notebook paper and made a heavy crease fold (90 degree) and l put half behind the frame and half on top with the crease snug on the corner. I then felt for, and rubbed through the paper the holes on the backside of the frame. I marked with a pencil the top edge of the paper. I then refolded the paper, so the dimples rubbed in the back now draped over the front, lining the top edge up with the pencil mark and the fold snug with the top front frame corner. Drilled the center of the dimples = perfect alignment.

[vt_maverick]

The holes on the hitch did not line up with the holes in the frame so I had to drill all of the holes. In additon, the holes in the backplate were too high for the holes that I drilled in the front so I had to redrill those as well. I mounted the hitch as high up as it would go and still the backplate just didn't.

Unfortunately I didn't install my Tone hitch as I am not so good with the mechanical arts. :o :p But the shop I used told me the measurements that came from Tone were not correct when they went to install it. I know Tone made a bunch of these things, so maybe you chalk it up to variations in production quality (since VX's were hand assembled)?

[Mile High VX]

Thanks for all of the help...:yes:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN0310.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN0311.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN0312.JPG

Still needs a good wash and clean up...but it's been a bit brisk here...:bwgy::smilewink:bgwo::bgwb:

Here's a tip: Make sure you have your cladding on something soft when you lay it down and when you are cutting the notch for the hitch so the edges dont get all scraped up. Do not ask how I know this...:mado::mady:

[ZubrAZ]

do you have the hitch measurements? like the L-shape bracket dimensions and the sticking-out length of the receiver itslef.
would you share, please?

[Mile High VX]

• Backplate is 10’ x 3”
o Upper holes
? Left side is 1” from the left side and 13/16” from the top
? Right side is 1 1/8” from the right side and 13/16” from the top
o Bottom holes
? Left side is 1 ½” from the bottom and 3 ¼” from the left side
? Right side is 1 ½” from the bottom and 3 7/16” from the right side
• Face of hitch is 10” x 3”
• Base of hitch is also 10” x 3” if you measure to the front of the face, not where the bottom meets the backside of the face
• Bottom holes are
o Left side is 1 15/16 from the bottom and 3 ¼ from the left side
o Right side is 1 15/16 from the bottom and 3 5/16 from the right side
• Upper holes are
o Left side is 1” from the top and ¾” from the left side
o Right side is 1” from the top and ¾” from the right side
• Bolts
o 1/2" x 4" - mine were rusty so I used some grade 8 bolts from Home Depot and painted them after installation to minimize rusting
o Takes a 3/4 socket
o Uses self locking nuts

The other measurement that I have is that from the back of the base to the top front face is 5".

Hope this helps.

[tom4bren]

...where these mount to the inside of the cladding one of the holder housings broke off. Anyone know what type of adhesive works on our plastic cladding so I can reattach this?

Sounds like I'm too late with a response but here it is anyway.

I broke off one of those tabs too. I used PC-7 to reattach the broken off piece. AFAIK it's still in place 2 years later.

Hope that helps.

[Mile High VX]

Sounds like I'm too late with a response but here it is anyway.

I broke off one of those tabs too. I used PC-7 to reattach the broken off piece. AFAIK it's still in place 2 years later.

Hope that helps.

Thanks Tom.

I put it back together without the tab after trying 4 different products. I'll get this at the ACE Hardware near my wife's work and put it back on.

[tom4bren]

Our local Ace stopped carrying PC-7 a few years ago. Online search indicates that Home Depot is an authorized distributor but I've never seen it in the local stores. IIRC in an old thread, Ldub posted some stores that also carry it.

BTW, PC-11 would work too. That's the marine versionbut it's a blue-ish white. I prefer the PC-7 though since it is the same color as the cladding (dark grey-ish, black sorta color) if you get sloppy & end up with some where it'll show.

BBTW, this stuff would also work good to fix cracked a hood insert.