VX for sale, though has problems...take the chance?

[MeowMix]

Hello! I'm a bit new to the VX world, and in fact to the world of 4WD in general (I've always been a sports car girl) and I was hoping you folks could give me a little advice on a VX I've found that I would like nothing more than to take home and love to death. I have been looking for a VX for quite some time now, and finally found one in my own city for sale by a private party. I'm pretty weary of this car though...here's the breakdown:

This VX is a 2001, proton (my favorite), with only 70K miles on it...though the car has NOT been well cared for. Little things here and there tell the tale that the owner could care less about her vehicle. It's non-smoking, but still it's so filthy inside I was almost afraid to sit in it...the cladding is very sunfaded (what product would you use to restore this, or can you?), the VX badges are peeling, there are various broken nickel and dime parts on the interior (such as the dome light cover and a small part on the door panel), there are multiple paint chips along the border of the drivers' door, where it has been opened onto something, The engine and bay are filthy, etc...it's just a bit rough cosmetically (nothing a couple cheap replacement parts, a little love and my little green machine can't fix there). It has also been in a front end collision. I noticed this as soon as I saw it, due to the difference in sunfading between the front cladding and the rest of it, which I said nothing about initially but then she brought it up herself, which I suppose is a good thing...at least she's not trying to hide anything. Apparently the radiator was replaced in the accident, and she does have the paperwork for the repairs.

The engine runs smoothly, the car starts and drives fine, transmission feels smooth when shifting, no odd noises that I could hear, etc. Now for what really worries me: Both the Brake and ABS lights are on. The woman selling it insists these are both on due to a need for replacement brake pads. I would believe this would cause "brake" to illuminate, though is this true that both of these lights would illuminate for this reason? I have only ever owned GM vehicles, and I know this claim does not hold true for them. The TOD system seems to work as it should, or at least how I read about how it works, lol. Is there anyone who can explain to me how to operate the 4x4 system? I saw the controls, yet had no idea how to use them...this is the first 4WD vehicle I've ever looked at, so I'm not so familiar with these systems in the least.

And of course the kicker: the woman wants $10,000 for it. I would definitely not pay this for it, though I'm trying to figure out what would be a feasible offer, assuming the ABS light doesn't scare me off. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

-Kat

[Ebenezr]

Buy it. A lot of forumers are running with no ABS. I bought mine 4 plus months ago, 120K miles. It too had a minor front end collision in its history. My ABS do not work as a not so good mechanic destroyed a front speed sensor but I'm fine with that. I was looking for an old jeep to buy outright and begin sinking money into to make it what I want but I stumbled on the VX. I have sunk at least 1700.00 into it so far just in renewing the front end and other maintainence. Everybodys cladding is faded and there are renewal products. If it is what you've always wanted and can stomach spending a little to keep it up and make it you- then I say get it. I paid 9,000 for mine and yours is 50,000 miles younger!

[VXjunky]

buy it if she'll take 5500-6000, less if possible....i paid 6400 for mine with that mileage, (70,000) and its cherry, 2001 proton

[Mile High VX]

If ABS is important to you, it could be expensive to fix...like $2,400 expensive if you have to buy new parts. Lots of salvage VXs and maybe you can find the part used. In fact, there is a salavage VX in Spokane, but not sure if the ABS part would still be there or if it would be good. Might be a good source for those odds and ends that you may need. It's at Whitey's Wrecking on Francis and you could call them at 509-489-3850.

VX badge fading is a common issue. They are still available new for about $55 each and I had to replace mine when I bought it just because it bothered me. Some members just take off all of the badging and call it a day. Most of the members order new parts from St. Charles Isuzu in MO from a guy named Merlin. He gives us a discount and free shipping. You can reach him at 800-727-8066. You can also use isuzuparts.com to look up the parts that you may need.

Price is high for that condition. I paid much less, but more that VXjunky, for my 2001 Dragon with 69K miles and some great mods/upgrades.

Not sure you can "treat" the existing cladding to ever match the new piece. Someone else may have had this experience and can chime in here.

Good luck.

[VXjunky]

looking thru the gallery yestrday...saw a member who'd painted the cladding proton yellow to match the BOD...not my cup of tea but a solution

[VX KAT]

Hey SunfireKat- Boy is this going to get confusing! :laugho:
I'm VX KAT...and go by Kat also! UH-OH! :laugho:

Have you checked out "Osteomata"s...he's selling his '01 Proton, in great shape. He's in Miami.
http://vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?threadid=19502

Have you seen the detailed questionnaire we put together?
It has some really key questions you need to ask on this one you've seen. Sometimes IMO, the VX is not a car that does well when "neglected"...which sounds like this one may be.....I think a very thorough examination by a good mechanic would be super important. You've got to find out about the condition of the engine and the oil status. And yes, the $10k is way too high...sounds more like $6,500 -$7,500 BUT it will absolutely depend on it's true condition and how much is or isn't wrong with it. Use the ABS light/issue as a HUGE bargaining chip since it's so expensive to replace. ...and remember, as others have said, they run OK w/o the ABS function...so it's not something you absolutely must replace...but use it as a bargaining chip!

I've put the questionnaire at the bottom of this post.

Have you read up on the important issues with the VX? There's a ton of great info on this site.

Here's some of the important threads on engine failure, polls, experience, etc....(if these links don't work, let me know...sometimes they don't work for some reason).


http://vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=3756&highlight=ENGINE+FAILURE+POLL

http://vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=16854&highlight=ENGINE+FAILURE+POLL

http://vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=17228&highlight=engine+oil+poll

http://vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?p=166184#post166184

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=15156&highlight=axiom+DI

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=16136&highlight=axiom+DI

http://vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=14775&highlight=iamironman

Here's the thread from Iamironman...
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=16157&highlight=built+2000

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=15156&highlight=engine+swap+axiom

Several theories on Isuzu design defect in rings that causes oil consumption:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=14548&highlight=brand+pcv+valve
*****************


COMPREHENSIVE VX QUESTIONNAIRE /CHECKLIST FOR BUYERS OR SELLERS
Here's the expanded "New Buyer" or "Seller" checklist:

~Any service history records?

~How long have you owned it?

~Electric windows work properly or bind?

~Condition of window rubber track/gaskets...(many have ripped or been cut)

~Look behind door panels to see if vapor barrier is present - (may indicate previous work on windows)

~Window regulator /motor been replaced?

~SBC brackets ever installed on windows?

~Any oil consumption noted, under ANY conditions? (some seem to consume a little when on prolonged highway driving)

~Chrome wheels peeling? (many peeled on the inner side)

~ABS - Any ABS light problems? Make sure ABS light comes on when key is first turned to ON position. If not, could a problem and / or bulb has been removed. Note, many have disconnected ABS system, or never repaired it when it went out, and truck seems to function fine (just no ABS).

~OEM CD player still work correctly or ERR3 code? Any jammed CDs?

~Any problems with TOD?

~Any clunking when decelerating or accelerating?

~Brand & model of tires & approx tread remaining-

~Do all 4 tires match in brand, size, model, AIR PRESSURE & wear? (TOD system will often make severe clunking noises if all 4 aren't pretty "equal" in all these terms)

~How long have these current 4 tires been on?

~Timing belt changed?

~Original OEM brake pads or replacements?

~Any fluids dripping, ever?

~Last time & what fluids have been changed?

~What type of fluids (synthetic oil or regular, motor oil, diff, tranny, transf case)?

~Evaluate/describe condition of all cladding - scrapes, holes, deformation, dryness, chalky appearance, any evidence of being "painted" in any way?

~Are all cladding screws present? Any striped?

~Condition of 4 screw knobs on inside rear door panel (often break off)

~Condition of inside door opening handle/levers & mechanism (sometimes broken)

~Any unusual /excessive vibrations - very subjective of course

~Any problems with motor mounts?

~Determine the history of the car's physical location, if possible (i.e. East Coast, potential rust, desert sun (UV), etc)

~Inspect thoroughly for rust!!
Any evidence of rusted bolts anywhere?
Is rear gas tank skid plate or tail pipe showing rust?

~Status of front bumper reinforcement bar? (Often rusts off completely)

~Status of rear license plate light/socket/bracket -(often severely rusts) -will give indication if it was in a rust belt area

~Condition of paint - Describe. (fading, chipping, scratches, repainted areas)

~Condition of hood insert - Describe. (very often cracked)

~Condition of plastic headlight housings - any crazing, fogged, cracked, etc...or been restored/polished, etc....(very often cloudy/fogged)

~Rubber headlight gaskets- present at all?, ripped, condition

~Evaluate engine bay- clean? dirty? Any evidence of leaking fluids (old or new) of any type?? Evaluate fluid levels.

~Evaluate air filter- excessively dirty? OEM or after-market?

~Has muffler ever been replaced? What's the status of the current muffler? Rusted, surface rust, etc? OEM, after-market? (Since, as I understand it, these mufflers are no longer available, so an aftermarket one with some modification to the pipes may be required.)

~Has it had to go through emissions testing recently? (Some states require for registration, some don't)

~Ever been lifted or torsion bars cranked?

~Condition of CV joints? (Can be damaged after being lifted)

~Battery- status, condition and age

~Any unusual flashing of any lights on dash or shifter? (Mode selection switch may be bad)

~Any odors inside, such as smoke?

~Condition of leather seats...scrapes, rips, tears, wear, abrasion, driver's side seat bolster

~Condition of center console padded armrest -(very often cracked and split where driver's elbow has rested on it)

~Condition of leather steering wheel - (often heavily scraped up)

~Condition of levers that bring seat back forward to allow access to rear seats (often broken)

~Does it have an OEM roof rack?

~Are OEM rail caps in place and/or available?

~Ever taken off road?

~OEM or after-market tail pipe?

~Status of tail pipe - any deformation may indicate off road use

~Status of rear lower cladding & rear gas tank skid plate- scrapes may indicate off road use

~Status of undercarriage overall - scrapes, damage, etc... may indicate off road use

~Any known repairs?

~Any extra parts on hand?

~Any modifications done previously that have now been removed? Describe.


list last modified: 6/8/10 11:09 am

[PK]

Be careful of the brake issues.
The ABS light has pretty well been covered, and yes you can do without it if you are inclined to drive like that.
But the brake light on is a different problem.
Cheap fix would be new pads, if that is the reason for the light to be on.
But it could easily be a stuffed master cylinder, or caliper causing the light.
That should be investigated prior to you making a decision.

And yes - the price is too high, but that will depend on how keen she is to sell, and how keen you are to buy.

Good luck - if it is a good one, you will fall in love forever.

PK

[rowhard]

welcome to the addiction. What you describe is as you say, nickel dime stuff. You came to the right place to get the info you need for most of these items/problems. IF your really taken with this VX and don't want to wait for another, I would spend the 100 bucks or less and have a mechanic you trust check it out, and the high cost items he might find can be bargaining points to bring the asking price down. AT 70k, your coming up (5k) on the cam timing belt change and most do the water pump at the same time. Unless your mechanically inclined, you will have to pay that and it ain't cheap.

Things to think about:grino:

[MeowMix]

Wow...I'm almost overwhelmed by all the info everyone has given me, lol. I appreciate all the feedback and advice! There's a very good chance that despite it's obvious flaws, I may continue to pursue this VX rather than waiting even longer than I already have for another to come along...to find one in the middle of the inland northwest with this low of mileage and in the color that I want and everything is a sheer stroke of luck. I just need to find a mechanic to check it out for me now, then the price bargaining can begin. Both of the Pontiacs I've had have never broken down, so I've never gotten a chance to know any mechanics in town...only tire shop people and of course, 12 volt people (my specialty) ;)

Mile High - yes, ABS is important to me; braking and traction systems are the main reason I'm selling my Pontiac for an SUV. If the winters in Spokane keep up the way they have this year, and especially in 2008-09, I need something I can get through the thick snow and compact ice in...my car simply isn't cutting it. Thanks for the numbers and all, I have been to Whitey's before, though was there looking for Civic parts with a friend...never saw the VX.

VXJunky - I've seen the cladding painted before, not my thing either, though at least the one I saw was ebony, so it almost kinda looked "right", lol. I'm sure I can scour various product lines and find something to help with sunfading...I don't expect perfection though.

Kat - thank you for providing all those links, as well as that list; I didn't know it was here on the forums...though I haven't had the time to sit down and really check things out here yet. Perhaps the time I have off between the end of Jan term and the beginning of spring semester classes would be a good time to really check things out...and perhaps by then I'll have a VX in my garage, lol. I know I can run fine without ABS; my current car has no ABS system at all, and in going from one that had it to one that doesn't...I despise not having it, so I'd definitely like to fix it. Of course my El Camino didn't have it either, but she would only come out of the garage when the sun was shining and roads were dry :) Also, thanks for the thought, but Miami is a bit for for me to go for a vehicle...FL is probably the farthest from WA I can possibly get.

PK - thanks for the advice, the brake light being on is something I'll indeed have assessed when I take it to a mechanic, and hopefully it will be determined to only be the brake pads afterall. And I have no doubts that I will fall deeply in love if I'm able to obtain a VX; I fell in love with my first Sunfire as well as my El Camino...my girls meant everything to me. Though my current Sunfire was a compromise. I could take him or leave him, lol. ;)

Rowhard - so nice to see another Washingtonian! Thanks for reminding me about 75K mi maintenance...yet another bargaining chip I can potentially use to drive price down! So long as I can get the woman selling it down to $6000, I'm golden...because I'm sure I can sell my current toy for 5 or 6 grand...

Nice meeting everyone, and y'all can call me MeowMix! I don't want to show up out of the blue and steal VX Kat's name. That would be awfully rude, lol.

[Osteomata]

SunfireKat,
I'm the guy in Miami selling the proton that VXKat linked to. If you change you mind about the distance and want to check an even lower mmileage, much better condition, no break or ABS problem VX for a lower price than the one you are looking at, feel free to give me a shout.

Having said that, the product you should look at for cladding restoration is Refinish Restorer. I treated my cladding twice and haven't touched it since. Fantastic, long lasting product. Expensive, but one can will last you a lifetime. Buy my VX and you can have the nearly full can I have left, hehe.

Best of luck to you regardless.

[Osteomata]

OH yeah, two other things:
Shipping from Miami to Spokane via DAS: $1168 (quote from their website)
Auto inspection service: $108 (various options for this, but they will catch more than you will)

[VX KAT]

MeowMix! I love it!

Wasn't sure how much you've read/researched on the forum...there's so much good info here. The VX DOES have several potentially serious issues (oil consumption being probably the biggest). NOT all VXs have the oil issue so it requires lots of questions to figure out where it stands.

MANY VX owners and I mean MANY have purchased theirs out of state and have either flown and drove them back or had a transport company (like DAS) transport it home. Or many have driven several hrs with a spouse or friend, and driven it home.

With so few available, there's usually little chance you'll find one in your town (as you've already mentioned you've been looking for months)...so PLEASE don't settle for what's in town, it's really not bad at all to buy long distance. I'm in AZ, VX was in VA...DAS auto transport was $1,000. Well worth it!!!

Also, many members here are willing to go check out a VX in person for you if it's within a reasonable distance....just ask!

To buy a "known" VX is about a million times better than buying an unknown, like the rough Proton you've found. For just a little more than the local one will cost you, you can have Osteomata's, lower mileage, completely cared for, beauty. REALLY worried about the local one. And no, I have no vested interest in Osteomata's, never seen it, never met him, etc..., but know it's well cared for and in good shape.

Really read up on those questions in the questionnaire. They pinpoint the common potential problem areas SPECIFIC to the VX, and were created by the owners that have a VX and know their stuff!

With the 10-11 yr history these cars have been on the road now, the list is like a road map of what to check out. The ABS is a really common problem, and since that's an important feature you want, you'll want to read up on the problem, and solutions, and costs for repair or rebuild.

And lastly I'll mention, for some reason, the NE DOES come up with several VXs for sale every year....so you stand a pretty good chance of finding one within a few hrs drive. Have you tried the "site mash" or "auto tempest" search sites to do a mass search all in one list?

[VXjunky]

if you really want to fall head over heels ...HARD...in love with these buggies....fly into florida and drive that puppy home.....O_M_G....take about 600 to 700 bucks for gas..........and check the oil every fill up

[Gussie2000]

Welcome to the VX world,the right place to find info and probably the right Vx.
After carefully reading your post about the brake light i am sure that the BRAKE light showing on the dashboard you'r referring about has to be the hand brake sensor that is probably broken.

Secondly the ABS is an common issue that our VX suffers an lot,mines is also on,but don't take it much seriously because our VX actually perform better without the ABS.

$ 10000 i agree is way over considering the interior's conditions you described.
For that amount you can get osto's VX that is in better shape hands down with shipping included,as stated many members ended up purchasing their VX out-of-state ( including me) so distance shouldn't be an issue to get the right toy.

Good luck and you already know we are an very supportive community.

Hope to see you proud be soon a VX'er.

[circmand]

Secondly the ABS is an common issue that our VX suffers an lot,mines is also on,but don't take it much seriously because our VX actually perform better without the ABS.

.

Lets be more careful of our advice. It is an opinion that the VX works better without the ABS. Since ABS helps only when slammimg on the brakes only those that have experienced it. Also that MAY be why the light is on may be something else. When someone is paying several thgousand the best advice is have it checked out no to ignore it.

[MeowMix]

SunfireKat,
I'm the guy in Miami selling the proton that VXKat linked to. If you change you mind about the distance and want to check an even lower mmileage, much better condition, no break or ABS problem VX for a lower price than the one you are looking at, feel free to give me a shout.

Having said that, the product you should look at for cladding restoration is Refinish Restorer. I treated my cladding twice and haven't touched it since. Fantastic, long lasting product. Expensive, but one can will last you a lifetime. Buy my VX and you can have the nearly full can I have left, hehe.

Best of luck to you regardless.

If you lived on the west side and there was no rust at all on the car, I'd definitely want it...though I don't buy east coast vehicles, sorry Osteomata. The chemicals they use on the roads back home (I'm originally from the east) are harsh...not like up here in hicksville where they just throw dirt down and call it good, lol. Thank you for the offer though, and it really is a beautiful proton.

So I've managed to find a friend of a friend who is a mechanic and who is very familiar with at least Troopers, so perhaps he'll be willing to check out the VX I'm looking at...I'll find out tomorrow, when I can contact him. The only other hurdle in my path is the money. I only have $4k in the bank, and I moved back home and quit my job a couple months ago to go back to college full time...this no income thing is kind of a drag. I need to convince the bank of dad that I need a 0% interest loan until I can sell that silly Sunfire of mine. Not a big deal, except he doesn't condone of my choice in vehicles and would rather see me in a Trailblazer or an Envoy than a VX. Though I'm absolutely tenacious when I find something I really want...I'll get my VX even if it takes me many more months to do so. ;) Hopefully all works out well this time, though if not I suppose the search continues. At this point I'm armed with a whole lot more info than I was before...thanks to all of you folks! Y'all are awesome!

-MeowMix :)

[vt_maverick]

Lets be more careful of our advice. It is an opinion that the VX works better without the ABS. Since ABS helps only when slammimg on the brakes only those that have experienced it. Also that MAY be why the light is on may be something else. When someone is paying several thgousand the best advice is have it checked out no to ignore it.

+1 - Also I know on other vehicles that I've owned that the brake light staying on can indicate low brake fluid. Only (and best) way to know is to get it checked out.


Having said that, the product you should look at for cladding restoration is Refinish Restorer. I treated my cladding twice and haven't touched it since. Fantastic, long lasting product. Expensive, but one can will last you a lifetime. Buy my VX and you can have the nearly full can I have left, hehe.

Just wanted to temper this statement a bit. Many members here have tried Refinish Restorer with varying degrees of success. Some members (VX KAT) have had bad chipping; others got it on the paint and it left a mark (can't remember who); and others (such as Osteomata) have had great success. So it's hard to say for sure what you're continuing success may be with this product, especially when you consider the dramatic climate change that would occur by bringing it up to the PNW. Florida is one of the best places to own a car from an environmental perspective, assuming it doesn't get flooded in a hurricane. It sure sounds like you expect to subject your VX to much harsher conditions.

There are many options out there that claim to "restore" the cladding but none really do. The available products can be divided into two categories: "dressings" that sit on the surface and provide a dark luster, and "overcoats" that are actually sprayed onto the surface of the cladding creating an entirely new outer texture/appearance. The former includes Mother's Back to Black, various Meguiar's and Turtle Wax products, Armordillo TS-1, TrimShine, etc., varying in price from $5-$40 per bottle/package, with endurance of anywhere from 2 weeks to 3 months. The latter most notably includes GatorBack and Line-X, which can run from $50-$600 or more depending on whether you do it yourself or pay someone else. All that to say that you will have to spend some level of money and effort to "restore" and maintain the cladding condition. This may obviously be much more expensive if the cladding is in below average condition.

My honest opinion is that you should walk away from the one near you. Is it really likely that the seller will drop $4K off their asking price? With all the known problems I certainly would not pay anything above $6K for it. A common theme we see amongst new buyers is that folks get really excited about the VX then rush into buying due to their perceived rarity. The truth is that while this may be the first one to appear near you, better examples appear every week elsewhere across the country. I say take a deep breath, let this one pass, then let us help you find something better. Members here routinely inspect VX's near them for random strangers from the forum, so you certainly won't be short of help in finding and evaluating new options. And I think in the end you may feel better about your decision.

P.S. You really should give Osteomata's VX some consideration, it is almost certainly a better choice than your local VX, and don't you think a trip to Miami this time of year might be nice? ;)

[vt_maverick]

The only other hurdle in my path is the money. I only have $4k in the bank, and I moved back home and quit my job a couple months ago to go back to college full time...this no income thing is kind of a drag. I need to convince the bank of dad that I need a 0% interest loan until I can sell that silly Sunfire of mine. Not a big deal, except he doesn't condone of my choice in vehicles and would rather see me in a Trailblazer or an Envoy than a VX. Though I'm absolutely tenacious when I find something I really want...I'll get my VX even if it takes me many more months to do so. ;)

Well I hate to be a buzz kill, but based on this new info I think you really need to consider not buying a VX at all. I wouldn't go so far as to say that these trucks are money pits, but they are certainly not cheap to own, both from a maintenance and gas mileage perspective. If you already need to get dad's help because you have 0 income, I can only see you going back to him several more times over the course of ownership just to keep it running. Seems like (and I hate typing this) you'd be better served by a Civic or Corrolla until you get back into the work force. :(

[VXjunky]

just what part of florida has these in climate weather conditions,of which Meow Meow speaks?....it was my understanding its the sunshine state.... this beautiful Proton would be sent to its early demise in spokane...how could the one youre looking not have rust issues already in place?....

[MeowMix]

Well I hate to be a buzz kill, but based on this new info I think you really need to consider not buying a VX at all. I wouldn't go so far as to say that these trucks are money pits, but they are certainly not cheap to own, both from a maintenance and gas mileage perspective. If you already need to get dad's help because you have 0 income, I can only see you going back to him several more times over the course of ownership just to keep it running. Seems like (and I hate typing this) you'd be better served by a Civic or Corrolla until you get back into the work force. :(


I don't mean to sound prude or anything, but I come from a relatively wealthy family, and money isn't really a huge issue. My parents insisted I quit my job and let them pay for anything I need/want throughout the duration of my education, and the only reason my father doesn't want to buy me a VX is because he'd rather buy me a newer, lower mileage FJ Cruizer (which is another SUV I'm rather fond of). I figure FJ's are considerably more expensive, and I'd rather cost him less. Either way, they insist I need 4WD because I ended up high centered in the deep snow in the middle of the street in my Sunfire and missed an important exam last semester...and I've wanted a VX for years, always watching as they would come and go on the dealership auctions that I have access to and frequently scour just for fun. Now I've somehow managed to find a proton in town, which is amazing odds. So...perfect timing?

I know I made it sound like money is an issue in my previous post (because to me it is), but it really isn't. Essentially, I'm a completely spoiled daddy's girl who will have zero problems initially buying or getting the VX fixed if it needs repairs...a car repair bill would pale in comparison to my University's tuition bills that my parents have paid for thus far. So there it is, the ugly truth. People generally don't like my "type"...now y'all probably look at me in a different light :(

...though had I not graciously accepted the amazing opportunity presented to me, and not gone back to college to pursue a real career, I still would be struggling out on my own. I went through some hard times, and was very much humbled by them.

Oh and VXJunky...good point. It doesn't snow in FL. I may be book smart, though I can be kind of a flake sometimes, and common sense doesn't always strike me, lol. However...the salty, humid ocean air in FL can cause significant rust problems. This is also why I didn't pursue a VX I found in the Seattle area last month (so close too!) Spokane is a very dry city, so no humidity to cause rusting, and we have little to no salt issues. The only thing is that it does snow, so for about 4 months out of the year, there is wetness on the roads. I could get into talking about the chemical reaction that causes rust...H2O and NaCl molecules, their polarity, etc and why salt is much more of a concern than water, though I won't bore you with chemistry that I myself find to be profoundly interesting, lol. I'll just point out that Miami is worse on a car than Spokane is in terms of rust...though we DO have FL beat when it comes to potholes and rock chips! Furthermore, whatever VX I end up with isn't doomed. I love and pamper and take exceptional care of my vehicles...I detail them obsessively using only mothers and meguiars products, even using Q-tips to get to the dirt in the nooks and crannies of my exterior from spring to fall, and interior year round. I'm also obsessive about mechanical soundness; using higher octane gasoline and always checking my fluids, tire pressure, etc. A little OCD never hurt anyone, right?

[vt_maverick]

I don't mean to sound prude or anything, but I come from a relatively wealthy family, and money isn't really a huge issue. My parents insisted I quit my job and let them pay for anything I need/want throughout the duration of my education...

Now I've somehow managed to find a proton in town, which is amazing odds. So...perfect timing?

I know I made it sound like money is an issue in my previous post (because to me it is), but it really isn't. Essentially, I'm a completely spoiled daddy's girl who will have zero problems initially buying or getting the VX fixed if it needs repairs...a car repair bill would pale in comparison to my University's tuition bills that my parents have paid for thus far. So there it is, the ugly truth. People generally don't like my "type"...now y'all probably look at me in a different light :(

Well we all come from different backgrounds, and if your family is blessed to have the resources to fund this venture, I won't hate on you for that. I have a two year old daughter, and although I don't intend to spoil her, I can see how that happens. :) But I will say this: if you really do have the wealth at your disposal that you indicate, I think there's even less reason to settle for something just because it's in your local area. If you can find an even better Proton (Osteomata's or not) somewhere else, why not? If you're already ready to commit $1000 or more of your Dad's funds to up-front repair bills, why not use the same amount of money to pay the airfare or shipping costs required to get a better, lower cost VX? Are you concerned that if you don't buy the local VX now, your Dad will force you into an FJ?


Oh and VXJunky...good point. It doesn't snow in FL. I may be book smart, though I can be kind of a flake sometimes, and common sense doesn't always strike me, lol. However...the salty, humid ocean air in FL can cause significant rust problems.

Actually you may not be as much of a flake as you thought. After suggesting that Florida might be a better climate, I did some digging through Osteomata's post history on this site and discovered (and I think he also disclosed this in his ad) that he originally bought it from someone in New York. To what degree that may or may not have added rust is up for debate, but I thought I would post that data point to validate some of your concerns.

[tom4bren]

There are also several members who have had their cladding LineX'd. It adds a bit rougher texture to the cladding so may not be your cup-o-tea either. If you get that Proton, may be worth stopping by & talk to them to see what options they have.

I still use Mother's Back to Black on my cladding. A lot of members have drifted away from that product though because they get tired of applying it every 2-4 weeks.

I don't think that anyone answered one of your questions from your very first post. How does the 4WD system work on the VX?

Very well:)

The TOD (Torque On Demand) system automatically senses wheel spin and sends power to the front wheels as needed. Unless you will be taking the VX off road, you'll probably never need that extra little lever to the right of the gear shift. That is used to force power to the front regardless of wheel spin & also has a lower gear for more power (this should NEVER be used on dry roads ... only slippery conditions). There is also a "Winter Mode" switch on the console but all that does is bypass first gear on the transmission so that you don't overpower on starting up from a dead stop & make your wheels spin.

[circmand]

I don't mean to sound prude or anything, but I come from a relatively wealthy family, and money isn't really a huge issue. My parents insisted I quit my job and let them pay for anything I need/want throughout the duration of my education, and the only reason my father doesn't want to buy me a VX is because he'd rather buy me a newer, lower mileage FJ Cruizer (which is another SUV I'm rather fond of). I figure FJ's are considerably more expensive, and I'd rather cost him less. Either way, they insist I need 4WD because I ended up high centered in the deep snow in the middle of the street in my Sunfire and missed an important exam last semester...and I've wanted a VX for years, always watching as they would come and go on the dealership auctions that I have access to and frequently scour just for fun. Now I've somehow managed to find a proton in town, which is amazing odds. So...perfect timing?

I know I made it sound like money is an issue in my previous post (because to me it is), but it really isn't. Essentially, I'm a completely spoiled daddy's girl who will have zero problems initially buying or getting the VX fixed if it needs repairs...a car repair bill would pale in comparison to my University's tuition bills that my parents have paid for thus far. So there it is, the ugly truth. People generally don't like my "type"...now y'all probably look at me in a different light :(

...though had I not graciously accepted the amazing opportunity presented to me, and not gone back to college to pursue a real career, I still would be struggling out on my own. I went through some hard times, and was very much humbled by them.

Oh and VXJunky...good point. It doesn't snow in FL. I may be book smart, though I can be kind of a flake sometimes, and common sense doesn't always strike me, lol. However...the salty, humid ocean air in FL can cause significant rust problems. This is also why I didn't pursue a VX I found in the Seattle area last month (so close too!) Spokane is a very dry city, so no humidity to cause rusting, and we have little to no salt issues. The only thing is that it does snow, so for about 4 months out of the year, there is wetness on the roads. I could get into talking about the chemical reaction that causes rust...H2O and NaCl molecules, their polarity, etc and why salt is much more of a concern than water, though I won't bore you with chemistry that I myself find to be profoundly interesting, lol. I'll just point out that Miami is worse on a car than Spokane is in terms of rust...though we DO have FL beat when it comes to potholes and rock chips! Furthermore, whatever VX I end up with isn't doomed. I love and pamper and take exceptional care of my vehicles...I detail them obsessively using only mothers and meguiars products, even using Q-tips to get to the dirt in the nooks and crannies of my exterior from spring to fall, and interior year round. I'm also obsessive about mechanical soundness; using higher octane gasoline and always checking my fluids, tire pressure, etc. A little OCD never hurt anyone, right?

Dont take anything posted on here to seriously. We are close knit here and very excepting and as such we have a tendency to be honest with our opinions as we would a family member (whether it is wanted or not). It certainly seems your situation for a VX is better than it would be perceived by your first post. I think I offered this same advice to a mom who posted on here about buyng a VX for her son. She wasnot in your situation. If you can get Dad to ride in a VX it may change his mind. I would not suggest the beater you are looking at though it will probably sour him on the VX.

[rowhard]

Looking for another VX, Did someone (VXKat) bookmark that search engine someone here showed us that will search all craiglist/ebay for VX's? I don't have time to do a search for it this morning, but maybe someone has it bookmarked

[VX KAT]

Looking for another VX, Did someone (VXKat) bookmark that search engine someone here showed us that will search all craiglist/ebay for VX's? I don't have time to do a search for it this morning, but maybe someone has it bookmarked


This one searches ebay, CL and Kijiji:
http://www2.jaxed.com/cgi-bin/mash.cgi?cat=cp&itm=isuzu+vehicross&loc=&fil=&ys=1999&ye=2001&ps=&pe=&pgs=100&submit=++++go++++

This one searches ebay, CL, cars.com, carsdirect, automotive.com and a few more.

http://www.autotempest.com/

Is this the one you're looking at?
http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/2153485527.html

[mdwyer]

Mile High - yes, ABS is important to me; braking and traction systems are the main reason I'm selling my Pontiac for an SUV. If the winters in Spokane keep up the way they have this year, and especially in 2008-09, I need something I can get through the thick snow and compact ice in...my car simply isn't cutting it.

Just my $.02, here. I can't actually recommend an SUV -- any SUV -- as being safer than your Pontiac in snow and ice. My VX will go through some seriously big snow, true. The problem is getting it to stop and keeping the rubber side down.

For what it is worth, I do my blizzards in my AWD Subaru (or before that, a FWD sedan), which I feel much more confident in. It is nimble enough and has a low enough center of gravity to keep me out of accidents. Once the snow gets so deep that I'm plowing with the bumper, well, that's another story. But until then, I'd rather be high-centered in the Subaru than upside-down in the VX.

Anyway, welcome to the group. I hope you do get a Proton :)

PS: I loved Spokane when I visited there in the 80s! Stayed at the Davenport... creepy old hotel!

[Cobrajet]

...I love and pamper and take exceptional care of my vehicles...I detail them obsessively using only mothers and meguiars products, even using Q-tips to get to the dirt in the nooks and crannies of my exterior from spring to fall, and interior year round. I'm also obsessive about mechanical soundness; using higher octane gasoline and always checking my fluids, tire pressure, etc...

:heart: :flower: Will you marry me? :)

[tom4bren]

ROFL

Y'all would hafta see Gregg's VX to understand ... He REEEEEALY does carry a California Feather Duster with him in the VX.

[Riff Raff]

:heart: :flower: Will you marry me? :)

x2!!! I would love to be your Parent's son-in-law to spoil, and we could ride off into the Washington State sunset in my (err....our) pristine Proton that I already have waiting for you.

Both the FJ Cruiser and VX are very nice vehicles. I also own a beautiful classic 1978 FJ-40, so I know my stuff about Toyota Landcruiser's as well. The VX is more rare and unique than the more commonplace FJ Cruiser, so having a Proton VX will definately make you stand out in a crowd. The only major downfall of the VX is its very poor (rather non-existent) rear visibility out the back window, so you should treat the VX the same as a solid panel truck with no side/rear windows and totally rely on the VX outside mirrors for rearward visibility.

The Proton you have described near your home in Spokane seems to be a total basket case for future repairs. The ABS "light on" issue is a very serious one, and is extremely expensive to have repaired. Personally, I would not consider any VX for sale that had an ABS "light on" issue until the PO had it professionally fixed by an authorized Isuzu repair facility with supporting repair receipt documentation.

Don't be afraid to purchase your future Proton long distance by having it shipped via D.A.S. (Dependable Auto Shippers). The prestine Proton of Osteomata in Florida costs only $1,168 shipped to you in Spokane. You would easily spend that and more in repairs on the battered Spokane VX you are currently considering. D.A.S. shipping is way cheaper than flying down and driving back when considering airfare, hotels, fuel, and wasted personal time. Like others have said, I too highly endorse the prestine Proton VX of Osteomata in Florida as the perfect one for you!!! Have it shipped to you, and never look back.

If you do decide to purchase a VX long distance, then be damn sure you utilize www.ESCROW.com as the monetary conduit to conduct the transaction (see Escrow.com website for details). With Escrow.com, you will have a 3-day inspection period to either accept or reject the vehicle and have it checked-out by an ASE mechanic before deciding on the purchase.

One last question MeowMix-- where do I mail your Engagement Ring???

:bgwb:

[circmand]

Like this lady is going to be interested in any of you once she finds out I'm single.

[tom4bren]

...I'm single.

I'm sure there's a reason for that!!!!

[circmand]

I'm sure there's a reason for that!!!!

Thus far I have been unable to find a woman worthy of me. Now dont get me wrong I am not egotistical the woman themselves tell me that. As a matter of fact If I had a dollar for every woman who told me it wasnt me it was them I would be rich. I do not expect anyone else to be perfect (like me) I have learned long ago I am one of a kind.

[vt_maverick]

Thus far I have been unable to find a woman worthy of me. Now dont get me wrong I am not egotistical the woman themselves tell me that. As a matter of fact If I had a dollar for every woman who told me it wasnt me it was them I would be rich. I do not expect anyone else to be perfect (like me) I have learned long ago I am one of a kind.

This should appear beside the word "sarcasm" in Webster's Dictionary.

Nice post circ. :)

[Gussie2000]

Circman,what bad advise are you talking about ?
1rst of all i never told sunfirekat to ignore what could be the brake light issue,i just say that the ABS is a very common issue on our VX's,that many members drives without the ABS or got rid of it.
isn't that a fact ?

Again,the brake light on the dash COULD be the hand brake sensor,what i meant by saying so is to provide her with a clue of what COULD BE the issue,more likely the wire tha engages the hand brake may need to be replaced;If you read her post carefully sunfirekat never mention that she noticed any issues with the brake system while test driving the VX more then the ABS & the brake light on

Anyways,is not my intetion to have an confrontation about anything with anyone.

[VX KAT]

Thus far I have been unable to find a woman worthy of me. Now dont get me wrong I am not egotistical the woman themselves tell me that. As a matter of fact If I had a dollar for every woman who told me it wasnt me it was them I would be rich. I do not expect anyone else to be perfect (like me) I have learned long ago I am one of a kind.
http://www.pic4ever.com/images/107.gif

[MeowMix]

Lol! You all crack me up...sorry guys, but as of just recently I'm taken. He may live 110mi away, but he's definitely worth the drive...I just wish that worthless car of mine had cruise control. ;)

Maverick - I'm not worried about being pressured into an FJ...ultimately, it's my decision, and my parents have acknowledged that. Not that they like it though, they'd rather run my life entirely...even at the age of 26, lol. There's a reason I initially moved out. As far as Osteomata's VX, if it's from NY then there's no way I'd want it...my boyfriend told me winter road horror stories from his days living in Syracuse for grad school. Apparently, they throw pellets of pure salt down on the roads, and cars that aren't frequently washed end up with a coating of salt on their skirts and underbody that turns white when it dries. Not cool.

Tom - thanks for the info on the 4WD, and back to black is probably what I would use as well...I already use it on the black exterior plastics on my Sunfire. I don't mind tediously applying and reapplying dressings to my plastics, in fact I love applying them; I like the smell of most dressings, lol. Also, has anyone ever had their cladding rhino lined? Rhino is so much softer and squishier than Line-x, I wonder which would be better. Though rhino is a thicker application, so that could present problems.

Mdwyer - my Sunfire is the most worthless thing I've ever driven in the snow, aside from the '87 El Camino I used to own...there's no way it could be better than an SUV. Though true, at least it's a lot more difficult to roll. There's a reason that 75% of Sunfires in this city disappear at the end of October and come back in about April, lol. Also, The Davenport has since been completely restored. They sank millions into restoration, and it's now absolutely gorgeous; the only 5 star hotel in the area. Rather out of place in this trashy, meth ridden city...though I like having a nice, high class place I can go to have a martini now and again. ;)

Riff Raff - Even if I did want Osteomata's proton out of FL, There's no way I could convince my dad to buy an east coast vehicle. I know that for sure...he's pretty anal about his cars. Kinda like me, but I'm way worse than he is. Unless we're talking about the coupe...that '31 Model A is his baby. I'm also aware of the visibility issues, which is one of the main points in all the VX reviews I've read over time. Thanks for the info on that escrow site though, I didn't know it existed. And as far as mailing anything goes -- why bother? Might as well drive over. Tacoma is a hop skip and a jump from Spokane...in fact, I was just over your way in Snohomish over winter break, lol.

Oh and Kat, those links are awesome! You rock! I had been going to individual cities on CL for searches, lol. And yes, that Spokane VX on CL is the one. Doesn't look too bad from the pictures, does it? I laughed when I reread the ad, and read the word "clean". How is a shriveled, probably six month old french fry on the floor clean?! And that's not the half of it. Poor VX...

So I've decided not to pursue that proton in town, I'll just continue to watch and see if she lowers her price on it...and if I can eventually get it for around $5k, I'd possibly reconsider. I know it may take many more months to find my VX, though I'm patient...no need to rush, I'll be stuck exactly where I am, in my parents basement, in school for probably another three years or so, lol. So if anybody finds a nice, low mileage, non-east coast '01 proton send a link my way! :)

Also...I need to figure this multiple quote thing out.

-MeowMix

[circmand]

Circman,what bad advise are you talking about ?
1rst of all i never told sunfirekat to ignore what could be the brake light issue,i just say that the ABS is a very common issue on our VX's,that many members drives without the ABS or got rid of it.
isn't that a fact ?

Again,the brake light on the dash COULD be the hand brake sensor,what i meant by saying so is to provide her with a clue of what COULD BE the issue,more likely the wire tha engages the hand brake may need to be replaced;If you read her post carefully sunfirekat never mention that she noticed any issues with the brake system while test driving the VX more then the ABS & the brake light on

Anyways,is not my intetion to have an confrontation about anything with anyone.

I may have misunderstood when you wrote not too take it seriously. I think the typo or short hand threw me.

[vt_maverick]

Maverick...my boyfriend told me winter road horror stories from his days living in Syracuse for grad school. Apparently, they throw pellets of pure salt down on the roads, and cars that aren't frequently washed end up with a coating of salt on their skirts and underbody that turns white when it dries. Not cool.

Your boyfriend is absolutely correct, I just washed the underside of my VX last Saturday to get all the salt off. The winter salt + the sand/salt water mist from driving on the beach is the primary reason why I bought a skid plate system; I figure it keeps 90+% of that stuff off the bottom of the engine, tranny, etc. But keep in mind that the salt problem isn't restricted to the East coast. When we got home from two weeks in Wisconsin over the holidays our Axiom was covered in salt residue. Thankfully they get enough snow up there to have a better understanding of how much salt is actually needed, but even still 2 weeks in WI = a few days in East coast snow. I bought a VX that was owned in PA/VA, but it only had 24K on the clock and I was able to thoroughly inspect the underside in person before I bought it. Given the distance and therefore the difficulty in inspecting it's probably a good idea to stick with something in the deep south (LA, AL, MS) or southwest (TX, AZ, NM, CA).


Also...I need to figure this multiple quote thing out.

See the little button to the right of the Quote button? (It looks like "+.) Click that button beside each post you want to quote and it will turn red to indicate that you're quoting that post. When you reach the last post you want to quote, click the Quote button instead and you'll quote everything at one time. Then it's just a matter of typing your posts between all the quotes.

Unfortunately that doesn't work if you're trying to quote posts across multiple pages. But there are ways around that if you try. :)

[VX KAT]

Now for something completely insane MeowMix....
Carfax showed my VX spent it's entire "registered" life in Virginia and DC...I bought it out of VA with 64k, all stock. I didn't have it inspected (insanely stupid!), just pics from used car lot. Shipped it to AZ & took it to mechanic....no rust.....go figger :_thinking (insanely LUCKY!)

Since VXs clearly move around the country quite a bit, here's some tips on assessing rust as you go forward with your search.
A good tell-tale sign of a possible significant rust issue on VXs: the front bumper support bar, behind the cladding. MANY owners have said it just rusted away to dust and fell off.

Another common area of rust: The license plate light unit on the rear, directly above plate. Several have had to redo it cuz it just rusted away. Deermagnet did a great overhaul/redo if it. After I read his I checked mine, and it DOES have quite a bit of rust.....so that appears to be an area especially vulnerable to rust.

Another comment on rust is the various bolts and screw heads in the engine bay. We often comment on these in pics. Don't think it's that definitive as a sign of a rusty truck, but certainly worth looking at on any one you check out. I have some lightly rusty ones right on top of the radiator/grill area, but we've seen some with severely rusted bolts.

I grew up in Penn, so I know salt and I know rust.....but the VX fever had blinded me and I hadn't yet read ALL the details on this site. Just sayin' you're right to be very cautious about East Coast cars, but, apparently, not all suffer that fate. Either that or mine was registered in VA but "lived" somewhere else.

On my recent "See America" driving tour, I got coated with some gray stuff in Colorado...I mean coated..... luckily RallyDude and MSHardeman knew exactly what it was and advised me to get it off! They spray the roads ahead of time with this variant of a salt product and you get it all over the undercarriage and everywhere else. too.http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSC_5289.JPG

[vt_maverick]

To add on to what Sue posted... another common area for rust is the muffler, although it's pretty common amongst all VX's, regardless of location. The muffler was the one area on mine that showed significant rust.

[mdwyer]

On my recent "See America" driving tour, I got coated with some gray stuff in Colorado...I mean coated..... luckily RallyDude and MSHardeman knew exactly what it was and advised me to get it off! They spray the roads ahead of time with this variant of a salt product and you get it all over the undercarriage and everywhere else. too.

Mag Chloride (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnesium_chloride#Use_as_an_anti-icer). The stuff makes a giant mess. The article I linked says it is less corrosive to steel, but then later down says it is corrosive to aluminum and steel. Still, you rarely see vehicles rusted through around here. That might have more to do with the dry climate than the road salt, but I don't know.

BTW, for what it is worth, when I bought my VX the ABS light wasn't on, but it turned on while I was driving it off the lot. If I had known then what I now know, I would have turned it right around and gotten $3k dropped off the price. Still, for what it is worth, mine has been 'broken' ever since, and I haven't really missed it all that much.

An ABS light impacts the price, in my humble opinion, but does not impact the overall quality of the VX. Having the brake light on is a bit more troubling. It COULD just be a problem with the handbrake, but it could also mean that half the brake system is dead. From experience, I can tell you that you don't want to drive around with half your brakes.

[MeowMix]

See the little button to the right of the Quote button? (It looks like "+.) Click that button beside each post you want to quote and it will turn red to indicate that you're quoting that post. When you reach the last post you want to quote, click the Quote button instead and you'll quote everything at one time. Then it's just a matter of typing your posts between all the quotes.

I see it now...I wasn't logged in before, and so I never saw the + button. Got it now. Thanks :)


Now for something completely insane MeowMix....
Carfax showed my VX spent it's entire "registered" life in Virginia and DC...I bought it out of VA with 64k, all stock. I didn't have it inspected (insanely stupid!), just pics from used car lot. Shipped it to AZ & took it to mechanic....no rust.....go figger :_thinking (insanely LUCKY!)

...but the VX fever had blinded me and I hadn't yet read ALL the details on this site.

Lol...VX fever eh? Is that medical terminology? ;) And yes...that IS extremely lucky; I'm glad things worked out in your favor. I myself have terrible luck, so I've learned to be fairly cautious of literally everything...best for me to not chance vehicles from the east. I'm patient, I can wait and diligently watch for my perfect proton.


BTW, for what it is worth, when I bought my VX the ABS light wasn't on, but it turned on while I was driving it off the lot. If I had known then what I now know, I would have turned it right around and gotten $3k dropped off the price. Still, for what it is worth, mine has been 'broken' ever since, and I haven't really missed it all that much.

An ABS light impacts the price, in my humble opinion, but does not impact the overall quality of the VX. Having the brake light on is a bit more troubling. It COULD just be a problem with the handbrake, but it could also mean that half the brake system is dead. From experience, I can tell you that you don't want to drive around with half your brakes.

You most certainly should have taken it straight back and at least had them fix it, or significantly lower the price as you said. I'm sorry to hear that that happened, though would you have still bought it had the ABS light been on prior to leaving the car lot? I did test drive that VX...I took it around the neighborhood a bit, and it didn't feel like there was something seriously wrong with the braking system. On the other hand I'm an installer, not a mechanic...I should probably leave that judgment up to a professional. The story about half a braking system sounds exciting...I hope it ended well for you, lol.

Thanks everyone for the info on common areas for rust problems...I'll have to add those to the arsenal of questions I've saved on a word doc for future use in finding my perfect VX. :)

[vt_maverick]

Maybe this one is worth a look MeowMix? It's in salt-free Texas:

http://lubbock.craigslist.org/cto/2171306188.html

http://images.craigslist.org/3kb3mb3l05T05U05X5b1kd5f5aa13ff691554.jpg

[atilla_the_fun]

the texas panhandle actually gets the most snow in texas..

[circmand]

[QUOTE=mdwyer;217587]Mag Chloride (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnesium_chloride#Use_as_an_anti-icer).
BTW, for what it is worth, when I bought my VX the ABS light wasn't on, but it turned on while I was driving it off the lot. If I had known then what I now know, I would have turned it right around and gotten $3k dropped off the price. Still, for what it is worth, mine has been 'broken' ever since, and I haven't really missed it all that much.

QUOTE]

They had service clear the codes and it came on again as they never fixed anything

[VXjunky]

FYI...yellow proton in texas had its timing belt and water pump replaced already...guys names richard....isnt firm on asking price

[MeowMix]

Maybe this one is worth a look MeowMix? It's in salt-free Texas:

http://lubbock.craigslist.org/cto/2171306188.html

ooOOoo! Mileage is a bit higher than I wanted, but still...that's definitely worth pestering my father. Again. Even says "will trade" -- maybe he wants an '05 Sunfire with exceptionally low mileage and a little extra cash on top, haha. Probably not though. He has a fire emblem on the back window...I instantly like this guy. And VXJunky, your additional info on the rig is like the cherry on top of my proton sundae. We'll see what the Bank of Dad has to say about this one. ;Dy;

-MeowMix

[MeowMix]

Here's an update on my VX hunt for anyone who cares to know: Bank of Dad denied loan on the proton in TX...too high of mileage. Though daddy has taken interest in the kaiser that member Ben KVX posted in the vehicles for sale section of the forum...as have I. Apparently anyone "crazy enough to belong to a club for those things" is probably someone who takes care of their vehicle -- and dad likes this idea. Then I told him I signed up to be a member here...apparently "I'm crazy too" now. Not all of us want to belong to corvette and hot rod clubs, he just doesn't get it. ;Dy;

Ben hasn't logged on and written anything further on his post though, nor has he sent me a PM. I need to know asking price, answers to various questions (of which all of you have helped me with -- thank you again), as well as additional pics before I make a decision. I'm trying not to be too overzealous, just in case he decides he doesn't want to sell afterall...since it seems as though he's simply entertaining the idea at the moment. I hope he decides to sell, I'd give her a fabulous home! Rosewood OR and back could definitely be a single day trip too...

-MeowMix

[vt_maverick]

Corvette / Mustang / Mopar / Hot Rod Clubs... ;puke: Chevy/Ford/Dodge produced hundreds of thousands of those cars, and you see them around EVERYWHERE. Perfect clubs for group-think sheep IMHO. :D

[VXjunky]

1937-1939 hudson terra-plane, pickup club....thats what im talking about...ok studeys of the same year are allowed too....the original el caminos.... http://www.hotrodhotline.com/feature/2002show/02delmar/page4.html .....at over a quarter million, it wont be mine anytime soon

[MeowMix]

Corvette / Mustang / Mopar / Hot Rod Clubs... ;puke: Chevy/Ford/Dodge produced hundreds of thousands of those cars, and you see them around EVERYWHERE. Perfect clubs for group-think sheep IMHO. :D

Hey now, be nice; my dad grew up in a different time...perhaps people of his generation think differently than we younger people do? Either way, I'm not going to have any ill thoughts towards hot rod or muscle car clubs -- we all have our likes and dislikes. Many people like older vehicles, and some of us like oddball vehicles. Since I have no qualms with my father's preferences, I would prefer that he didn't have any qualms with mine either, or at least not voice them to me, but I'm probably not going to get my wish there...I myself think everyone, regardless of preference, should get along respectfully; perhaps I'm a bit of a car pacifist? :)


1937-1939 hudson terra-plane, pickup club....thats what im talking about...ok studeys of the same year are allowed too....the original el caminos.... http://www.hotrodhotline.com/feature/2002show/02delmar/page4.html .....at over a quarter million, it wont be mine anytime soon

I really am only crazy about the first generation '59-'60 El Caminos, which there were only a little over 22,000 produced. That was back when they were on the same platform as the Impala, and they actually were cool. By now, most first gens have probably been in collisions or rusted away completely, so their numbers I'm sure are lower, lol. FYI, The only reason I bought my baby 1987 El Camino is because that car had been around since I was 3 years old, and I get attached to certain material things -- I didn't want to see her go when my father put her up for sale. It was extremely impractical to own, considering the geographic area I live in and the weather conditions here (which is ultimately why I gave her up)...though I loved my Elco dearly. I could care less about any other 78-87 El Camino though. I only loved THAT ONE. Now that she's gone, I'll never own another. I never really belonged in the 80's muscle car stereotype anyway -- I'm not a dude in a stained wifebeater with a mullet and a beer in hand. Okay, so the beer fits...but wrong gender and hairstyle. ;Dy;

[yesitdoeshaveteeth]

Sunfirekat - Not only as a fellow Washingtonian, but as a displaced 509'er (I'm from Othello - Look it up haha) I hope you find yourself a slice of this awesome piece of work. I've had mine for nearly a year now and I've had a blast (although now I'm running into a few hiccups) - Every time I paroose the forums here I get motivated and excited about the potential there is with this vehicle.

Some naysay us strictly for the fact that the VX is "unconventional", "Wasn't popular" or even "silly" but as a professional amateur backyard engineer I see the challenges the VX introduces as more of a test of my intellectual "badassery" and sheer belief that my pure unadultered stubbornness can fix anything!!!

Welcome to the club....

[Jolly Roger VX'er]

In a previous post...someone mentioned changing the timing belt & water-pump @ 75k miles.

IIRC my owner's manual indicated 90k? Unless 75K is for severe usage what am I missing? Not saying it is wrong just wondering aloud.

But, I waited until 120k miles to do mine with no ill effects, especially since VX water-pumps seem to like to crap out around 140k miles from what I've read. My belt still looked good @ 120k miles!

I also belong to a Mustang club... I personally think they are good people but you're welcome to your opinion. They don't seem to hate on anybody.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/4T_Racing_0011.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/13858)

http://www.lemoc.com/

[RICHARD PAYNE]

It sounds to me like they are asking way too much for all the problems. I have a few for sale; you can check us out at Detaildrivenautos.com We have 4 more coming but not preped yet. Thanks, Rich

[vt_maverick]

In a previous post...someone mentioned changing the timing belt & water-pump @ 75k miles.

IIRC my owner's manual indicated 90k? Unless 75K is for severe usage what am I missing? Not saying it is wrong just wondering aloud.

But, I waited until 120k miles to do mine with no ill effects, especially since VX water-pumps seem to like to crap out around 140k miles from what I've read. My belt still looked good @ 120k miles!


My mechanic mentioned the 75K timing belt / water pump service to me as well (I'm at about 67K now) so it must be written down somewhere, either in aftermarket repair manuals or under a "severe usage" table as you suggested. It may very well be the latter; the service tech noted that he was "amazed" that she was still running on the original parts after 11 years, so that may be motivating them to look at the more aggressive schedule.


I also belong to a Mustang club... I personally think they are good people but you're welcome to your opinion. They don't seem to hate on anybody.

Heavy sigh... I'm not trying to pour hater-ade on anybody's hobby, I've known plenty of nice guys and gals who were really into Mustangs, Camaros, Corvettes, etc. I guess I just have a hard time going to one of their meets and seeing a dozen of the (more or less) exact same '65 Mustang one after another. I mean yeah that's what you get at a VX meet as well, but it's different (IMHO) because there's so few of them to begin with. On the other hand I see probably a half dozen Corvettes just on my way to work and back each day.

Nice people... not hating... just not for me.