Nuke VX build thread

[sleveritt]

Hey all,
My VX build project has been taking longer than anticipated. It's a crying shame too since we had about 3 feet of snow in my area in the past month. Would have been GREAT to get it out and throw some snow around.

As some of you remember, my VX started off life with me after sitting at least a year in a small town in AR with a bad engine. Repair shop said about $7k for a reman engine, but then I would still be left with an engine with hard/expensive to replace parts. Couple that with the "limited" IFS and I opted for a driveline swap.

Here is where I began the planning (note the faded cladding):
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN6368.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN6372.JPG

Then I began my novice surgical removal of said driveline:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/100_0529.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/100_0552.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/100_0554.JPG

That is where I found the culprit to the horrible engine knock:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN6886.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN6879.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN6903.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN6894.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN6911.JPG

Triumphant at last!
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/100_0539.JPG

Then it was off to the builder's:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/100_0284_00.jpg

He appreciated all the "work" I had done, but he still had a way to go. During this time, I was selling off parts from the VX and working my 2nd job as much as I could to help fund this project. John the builder got started by removing the remaining axles (hey, I needed wheels on it to transport it to him...)
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_0265.JPG

Sourced a 5.3L (327ci) Chevy Short Block with 60K miles on it:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_0266.JPG

And a Dana 300 transfer case:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_0272.JPG

And a Turbo 400 automatic transmission:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_0273.JPG

Continued in next post

Sam

[sleveritt]

They had a hell of a time removing all the mounting brackets/braces/gussets for the axle mounts. John said it was the most reinforced front end he ever seen. Give him a break as he normally works on Jeeps. Once the frame was cleaned up for the motor/axle mounts:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_02811.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_03582.JPG

Then nestled the 5.3L in the engine bay:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_0360.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_0361.JPG

Then the Scout Dana 44 solid axles got new internals and upgraded alloy shafts/rotors/brakes to handle larger tires:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_1956.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_1957.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_1963.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_1977.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_1983.JPG

As you can tell, the tires barely fit!
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_1974.JPG

Even with that kind of lift, the oil pan was too close to the front axle and needed to be shortened a bit:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_2007.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_19961.JPG

Then the locking hubs were installed (for streetability - wife still wants to drive it)!
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_2004.JPG

Got the gauges installed:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_2366.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_2368.JPG

Continued in next post

Sam

[sleveritt]

Since it was running, I brought it home and began putting various parts back onto/into it:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_2408.JPG

Even driving it around the neighborhood led to MASSIVE RUBBING in forward, reverse and turning. So some trimming was in order. I started with the front and trimmed the cladding:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_2442.JPG

Then moved to the rear of the front tire and selected some metal to remove:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_2451.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_2452.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_2453.JPG

Then I moved to the rear axle for WAY MORE fun and excitement!
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_2465.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_2471.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_24751.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_2479.JPG


Then reinstalled the rear and side cladding:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_2482.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_2484.JPG

As you may noticed the cladding had a refinish and restore session:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG01850.jpg
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_2486.JPG

Finally, those headlight restoration kits seemed to work quite well. I was very pleased with my results!
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/Lense_restoration.jpg

Here is a reference photo of when I picked up the VX tires compared to the tires on my 3/4 ton diesel pickup.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG00512.jpg

Sadly, the VX is back at the builders. I uncovered a few areas where they did not double check their work. I am somewhat understanding since he was getting married that weekend and needed my vehicle out of the way since the reception was being held at his shop. First thing, the pin the connects the tranfer case lever to the shaft fell out literally in my drive way. Second, the transmission was way overfilled and was shifting erractically not to mention dripping everywhere. Third, the fuel gauge was wired backwards. I found that one out when I was driving a measured 2 mile route to calibrate the speedometer. The gauge read FULL but was actually EMPTY. There were other minor things that needed touching up, but the main reason had to do with the HORRIBLE steering. Truly, I could barely keep it in my lane up to ~40mph, above that, I needed some extra room to allow for lane wandering. I couldn't find any play in the system, so probably extreme bump steer.

So, it is licensed and technically driveable, but not safe. Probably going to go with hydraulic steering (still not sure). Also, only the driver's seat is mounted. Most of the dash is still removed and a few more things need attention. I still have to get it to an AC shop to get a compressor mounted, connected to my system, and get the HVAC wiring figured out. Hey, Moab get hot!!! I've already got the polyurathane coating containers in the garage (red for interior floor and black for undercarriage insulation.

There it is as of now. Like I said, more work planned. Let me know if anyone has any questions or suggestions. Take care!

[vt_maverick]

Nice work so far, I love reading these build threads where people do some absolutely mind-blowing upgrade. Looks like you've gotten farther than most already, can't wait to see how it turns out!

:thumbup:

[VXorado]

Sweet, its looking great!!! What size tires did you install?

[ZEUS]

WOOHOO! Finally! You were torturing me! :p Like I was saying, nice goin, silent ninja! Regarding the steering... if you have room under compression, consider a high-steer setup to minimize bump steer and provide extra clearance.

http://www.dandcextreme.com/product.asp?pkID=106

The kit above could also take out extra steering slop because of the parts it replaces.

As you probably already know, the drag link should be parallel with the track bar throughout the range of suspension travel to eliminate bump steer.

I can't see from any of the pics; did you have a 3-link or radius arms installed in the front? Radius arms could be another reason for steering issues because of the suspension cycling characteristics and the steep angle they seem to be at. In either case, the caster angle may have not been tuned in yet. Hopefully, the upper link(s) were made adjustable to compensate.

I'd like to see more pics of the suspension and steering components if you get a chance... we could see some tell-tale signs of what may be going on...

It has really come a long way in a short time though so don't be so hard on your self... there will be LOTS of bug squashing to come! :yeso:

[jhigareda]

A V8 n better mileage too. I want it!

[Ebenezr]

Good luck to you Sam. Hope you work these things out and wondered what was coming of your project.

[Triathlete]

Nice!
What kind of angle did you put on the knuckles? To little knuckle angle will cause wandering which gets worse with speed. You may need to grind the selfsame in the inner knuckle of, rotate them and reweld them. I believe they are to be around 8 degrees.

[VehiX]

That VX is a BEAST!!!

Kudos to you and all of your hardwork :)

[nfpgasmask]

Holy carp! I can't wait to see the end result. Ascinder is gonna love this thread!! He's doing pretty much the same thing.

Bart

[sleveritt]

Sweet, its looking great!!! What size tires did you install?

37"x12.5"x17LT Goodyear Wrangler MT/R with Kevlar. Got a set of 5 but the spare may have to stay back at base camp, too large to fit on the inside and the roof barely clears the garage as it is.

Sam

[sleveritt]

The VX is back at the shop right now, but this guy has been building buggies for over 20 years now, so he gets first crack at fixing the problem (besides I found some math errors and double charges, so I've got some cushion money factored in). I had mentioned the hydraulic steering before because the steering box had such a small pitman arm, not enough on the turning radius. Longer arms would run into other components.

Rockkrawler makes a hydraulic unit that looked pretty good and cheaper than PSC setups. I will keep all these comments in my wallet for the next time I go out to visit the monster!

Sam

[Triathlete]

Psc stuff is bombproof though.90% of the king of the hammers rigs run psc stuff for a reason.:yeso:

[sleveritt]

Psc stuff is bombproof though.90% of the king of the hammers rigs run psc stuff for a reason.:yeso:

Yeah, well... that's not in the cards for me. This is a hobby for me and the family to enjoy. Doubt I'll need bombproof stuff, but if mine breaks then I'll know the next step!!!

Sam

[Triathlete]

I would think that having steering while driving down the road at speed might be of somewhat importance to you and your family?:bwgy:Not saying the other stuff is junk by any means.

[samneil2000]

Are hydraulic steering systems street legal? Either way, I love this X!!!

[Triathlete]

Technically...no. Most laws say you must have some sort of mechanical linkage. Would most people know the differance...probably not.

[samneil2000]

Agreed. I was pretty sure they weren't but was just checking for clarification. Nobody really cares until it breaks. Then you might get sued...

[RamAirZ]

That's looking great man! Can't wait to see it all buttoned up

[ZEUS]

The VX is back at the shop right now, but this guy has been building buggies for over 20 years now, so he gets first crack at fixing the problem (besides I found some math errors and double charges, so I've got some cushion money factored in). I had mentioned the hydraulic steering before because the steering box had such a small pitman arm, not enough on the turning radius. Longer arms would run into other components.

Rockkrawler makes a hydraulic unit that looked pretty good and cheaper than PSC setups. I will keep all these comments in my wallet for the next time I go out to visit the monster!

SamOK, without extra pics then... I am glad the VX is back at the shop. Please just take note of everything I have to say before you discard it. I am trying to help you as delicately as I can because I am naturally over the top. I know you are excited to be so far along in this build but I also know you don't have much experience in this stuff. I seriously doubt your builder has been building rock buggies for over 20 years unless his name is Soni Honegger. Perhaps instead, builder guy has been poorly wrenching on 4x4s for 20 years which supports why very apparent shortcuts have been built into your VX! This means his name is not Soni Honegger! :) I am trying to inform you that you have a poorly engineered and dangerous VX on your hands. Heed the warning signs you have already seen and ask yourself if they are appropriate for someone with so much professional experience:

"First thing, the pin that connects the transfer case lever to the shaft fell out literally in my drive way.
Second, the transmission was way overfilled and was shifting erractically not to mention dripping everywhere.
Third, the fuel gauge was wired backwards. There were other minor things that needed touching up,
but the main reason had to do with the HORRIBLE steering. Truly, I could barely keep it in my lane up to ~40mph, above that, I needed some extra room to allow for lane wandering. I couldn't find any play in the system, so probably extreme bump steer."

I simply ask that you ask your builder why (with all his experience) he has made decisions that work against your overall goal. With all the evidence of poor engineering I have seen I think you should approach him with a barrage of questions to protect yourself from being scammed/taken advantage of.

VXer's PLEASE, for selveritt's sake, back me up or tell him where I am wrong:

1) The stock lower rear links on the VX are known to be weak when controlling something as small as a 33" tire offroad. You have much more tire and therefore leverage than that here... Your links have been cut, perhaps sleeved (let's hope at least), and then welded together. Bottom line, they are weak, sloppy, not enough, and could be dangerous for you and your family.

2) The rear track bar. We can't see from the pics, has that track bar been lengthened or lowered, and if so, how was it done? You may have 6"-9" of lift on your VX and as such if the track bar was not lengthened or lowered, the driver side tire should be sticking out 1"+ more than the passenger tire. Notice the track bar is tied to the driver side frame rail... I'll get back to this.

3) The upper rear suspenion link. How was this one extended? Let's hope it was cut in the middle and then sleeved throughtout it's length at least. It does not see the abuse the lower arms do but it should still be modified correctly or, ideally, replaced.

4) Based off a pic I saw of beefy links sitting on the floor I am thinking builder guy assembled a 3-link in the front with a track bar, resembling the rear suspension. Since there is only one pic of the arms installed, I have to say, they are very short and at an extreme angle if they are indeed shown at ride height. If that is the case, it will always handle and ride like crap and is dangerous! When drooping (like during even a mild jump), the axle will move back so far you run the risk of breakage and a harsh absorption. When flexing, you will see EXTREME axle steer where the drooping side will move backward and the compressing side will move forward causing the VX to turn and steering input may not compensate, especially with the front locker engaged!

5) Did builder guy install cross-over steering? If he did not then your front track bar is installed backward!!!!! Look at it, the track bar needs to be INLINE with the drag link! If it is not then as the suspension droops the distance between the axle mounted end of the track bar and the passenger steering knuckle lessens... what this means is for every bump you hit the axle is shoved to the left and your steering wheel to the right!

This is what your front end should look like:
(Red is the track bar - Yellow is the Drag link)
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/5048/droppedpitmanarmgeometrta4.jpg

6) Because of the short wheelbase of a VX, your new high center of gravity, your steep front control arms, the opposing draglink and track arm scenario in conjunction with the opposing rear track arm at an increased angle, when you hit a nice size pot hole or bump at speed the VX will scissor dangerously. The front axle will dodge to the left, your steering wheel will turn to the right and your rear axle will dodge to the right soon after, opposite of the front axle.

7) Spring rates? If he is a Jeep guy, I imagine he probably used Grand Cherokee springs... those would be better than TJ or Cherokee springs but may not be stiff enough...

8) What became of your sway bars? Please don't tell me all these problems were created and no sway bars were planned...

9) I would recommend stainless brakelines, adjustable proportioning valve and Hydroboost with this setup. Plus you seem to have no parking brake anymore so consider a Line-loc as well while you are diving into it.

10) The front drive shaft looks to be at a pretty steep angle as well. Consider a CV-style shaft and make sure the slip-spline depth is adequate.

I am merely trying to help you create the greatest and safest VX you can have, Sam. I hate so be the one to tell you your builder has A LOT more research and work to do... but I definitely see that as the case. :(

I wish you luck...

[RamAirZ]

Well said man! I did more picture gazing than reading the first time but your 100% right. If he does have a ton of experience and he's just not using it on your truck, I'd find someone else. And shoot, even with him getting married he should never shove a vehicle out that's not done right. If I'm working on someones ride, I won't let it leave unless it's done right and to my standards, that's your business rep driving out the door. I'd prefer a shop that tells me they need to keep it a few more days because they need to "polish" some things up than just throw it together and get it out. Still excited to see it running and sitting on those big meats but yeah I'd make sure all that stuff was taken care of before I decided to drive it. I'm really surprised he used the stock rear links too.

[Buffy]

I agree with what Zeus said. Would anyone else be concerned with the amount of oil volume lost from the modified oil pan?? I would have thought a low profile oil pan with side bolsters would have been a better solution. Just seems he lost about 2 quarts work of oil on that pan modification.

[Triathlete]

I didn't look closely at the pics until after reading Zeus's post and have to agree with his obsevations. Hopefully your builder will be able to get all the issues worked out and create a safe beast for you. Keep us updated.

Not sure how much research you have done prior to your project but it might be helpfull to do a bit of searching and reading about the issues you are experiencng on the Pirate 4x4 site. There is a lot of good info there.

[jhigareda]

Umm I concur DR.

[RamAirZ]

I agree with what Zeus said. Would anyone else be concerned with the amount of oil volume lost from the modified oil pan?? I would have thought a low profile oil pan with side bolsters would have been a better solution. Just seems he lost about 2 quarts work of oil on that pan modification.

I think that's why Ascinder is using the Vette's "batwing" pan. A dry sump LS7 pan would have been sweet too.

[ZEUS]

Milodon also makes a steel pan but like the batwing pan it becomes wider so I worry about contact with the front diff. I am personally leaning toward the H3 Alpha 5.3 pan for my build as it is 2" or so shorter than the stock truck pan.

[RamAirZ]

The trailblazer pan is pretty short there too isn't it?

[sleveritt]

Man, I thought I was anxious to get this thing on the trails! You guys have lots of ideas, but as far as I know, this (and Ascinder's) are the only real projects going on. Not just some bolt on mods over a weekend. This is a build thread that presents many months of development and many more to come. I appreciate all the comments and suggestions, I will keep them in mind - but the tone is not to my liking. This is a work in progress - FAR from done. Perhaps considering that he is a friend of mine would help keep things in better perspective.

Like I said, he had to get the VX out of the shop (wedding, reception, honeymoon, etc.) and I had things I could do to it in the meantime (HVAC was top of the list, but all the shops were just too busy). Back up and realize he probably had other things HE was doing while the shop guys worked on my rig. They never said it was done, just to a point where I could drive it and complete some stuff of my own. When I called him with my list, he apologized and was more than willing to bring it back to the front of the line.

Obviously there are things that were rushed or incomplete, but I don't remember finding a true builder shop anywhere near here that would touch a driveline transplant. Of those within an hour drive of here said, no way. Further questioning yielded "Jeep bolt on modification shops". Those in more populous states have a greater variety to chose from, not so around here. If you're a professional automotive mechanic, builder or specialist, then good for you and be sure to let me know when you have your own shop and begin to offer nationwide service. I'd be willing to let you work on my rig.

Sam

[ZEUS]

That's good to hear! Like I said, I just didn't want to see you get scammed. It's just all too common hearing about people getting screwed by shops so thought I would throw out my 2 cents... didn't mean to step on toes or offend.

[RamAirZ]

Man, I thought I was anxious to get this thing on the trails! You guys have lots of ideas, but as far as I know, this (and Ascinder's) are the only real projects going on. Not just some bolt on mods over a weekend. This is a build thread that presents many months of development and many more to come. I appreciate all the comments and suggestions, I will keep them in mind - but the tone is not to my liking. This is a work in progress - FAR from done. Perhaps considering that he is a friend of mine would help keep things in better perspective.

Like I said, he had to get the VX out of the shop (wedding, reception, honeymoon, etc.) and I had things I could do to it in the meantime (HVAC was top of the list, but all the shops were just too busy). Back up and realize he probably had other things HE was doing while the shop guys worked on my rig. They never said it was done, just to a point where I could drive it and complete some stuff of my own. When I called him with my list, he apologized and was more than willing to bring it back to the front of the line.

Obviously there are things that were rushed or incomplete, but I don't remember finding a true builder shop anywhere near here that would touch a driveline transplant. Of those within an hour drive of here said, no way. Further questioning yielded "Jeep bolt on modification shops". Those in more populous states have a greater variety to chose from, not so around here. If you're a professional automotive mechanic, builder or specialist, then good for you and be sure to let me know when you have your own shop and begin to offer nationwide service. I'd be willing to let you work on my rig.

Sam

I don't think people are talking down to you but more trying to offer advice so you have a nice/safe rig. As far as no one else building something like yours on here, may not be a VX but I'm sure a few of us have had our fair share of in-depth builds with full on fabrication/modifications involved. But we won't get into that, but yes like Zeus said, it was just us making sure you don't get screwed. Saying he's a friend is different than us thinking it's some shop that promised you stuff and hasn't delivered. You just called him the "builders" and said stuff like:

"Sadly, the VX is back at the builders. I uncovered a few areas where they did not double check their work. "

We're just looking out for ya, it's an awesome build for sure and once everything is "done" it'll be one sick rig. Don't get pissed at us though for trying to help, this is a "tech" forum after all.

[pbkid]

very nice.

someone finally an SAS!!!.... :thumbup:

[Ldub]

Holy carp! I can't wait to see the end result. Ascinder is gonna love this thread!! He's doing pretty much the same thing.

Bart


I agree with what Zeus said. Would anyone else be concerned with the amount of oil volume lost from the modified oil pan?? I would have thought a low profile oil pan with side bolsters would have been a better solution. Just seems he lost about 2 quarts work of oil on that pan modification.


I didn't look closely at the pics until after reading Zeus's post and have to agree with his obsevations. Hopefully your builder will be able to get all the issues worked out and create a safe beast for you. Keep us updated.

X 2...:yesgray:

That being typed...

You're my hero Ferris sleveritt...:_wrench:.:thumbup:

[LittleBeast]

Looking great keep us updated!!!!! More pictures please :-)

[VCrossfan]

Looks very cool Sam...It's just a toy and you'll upgrade things as you need to. People have talked about this in this forum for years but have never attempted it, So Hat's off! !. Questions will come until the cows come home, it's Jealousy...

I go the Ozarks once in a while in the summer, I'll drop you a line if I head your way. I'd love to see the Beast....

[RamAirZ]

I think the main reason no one has tried it here is most people are afraid to hack into a VX even though the frame is just a Trooper. Plenty of Trooper guys have done it, so in all reality, it's been done, just a different body on top. Other people don't have the money to pay someone to do it or the skill to do it themselves, and other's don't see a "need" for it with what they use their trucks for or get rid of them before getting to it. Ascinder's is coming along great and looking forward to the finished product as with Sam's here. I wouldn't say all questions are jealousy............

[Bob Barker]

I'm jealous, then again I'm not asking questions... Just sitting here green faced mumbling to myself about what I probably will never have!

[RamAirZ]

I'm jealous, then again I'm not asking questions... Just sitting here green faced mumbling to myself about what I probably will never have!

Is that the same face you have when your at Hooters or looking at porn? :laughy: Just joshin' with ya

[ZEUS]

I looked at this kind of build for my VX very seriously and went back and forth on the idea for quite a while. I couldn't bring myself to do it because IMHO the VX body simply does not lend itself to the concept of an adequate, usable, hard core, off road rig. I felt the end result would not have been worth the effort - for me - even if it was built correctly the first time... it's a rolling art piece.

Call me jealous, but I have a question. What does this statement mean? "Questions will come until the cows come home, it's Jealousy..."

Answers will leave until the cows leave home, it's Acuity... :smilewink

[VCrossfan]

I think the main reason no one has tried it here is most people are afraid to hack into a VX even though the frame is just a Trooper. Plenty of Trooper guys have done it, so in all reality, it's been done, just a different body on top. Other people don't have the money to pay someone to do it or the skill to do it themselves, and other's don't see a "need" for it with what they use their trucks for or get rid of them before getting to it. Ascinder's is coming along great and looking forward to the finished product as with Sam's here. I wouldn't say all questions are jealousy............

OOOPs my bad, I missed the trooper members in "THIS" forum (as stated) that have done the SAS

[RamAirZ]

OOOPs my bad, I missed the trooper members in "THIS" forum (as stated) that have done the SAS

:laughing: nice, good call. Didn't mean on this forum and wasn't really referring directly at your comment but more an overall consensus.

[sleveritt]

Here are the latest projects nearing completion. I got around to painting the roll bars, the dash panel and applying the red Durabak liner. It's amazinh how much warm weather makes this possible. I've also painted the roof liner, A pillar plastic, sun visors red (but those are still drying).



http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/Painting_roll_bar_3.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/Painting_roll_bar_1.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/Painting_roll_bar_2.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/Rear_Area_2.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/2nd_Coat_on_Passenger_side.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/2nd_Coat_in_rear.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/Doesn_t_quite_match.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/2nd_Coat_on_Driver_s_side.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/Got_to_coordinate.JPG

[sleveritt]

Couple of pics of the added padding to the interior roll bars. I've got to protect the kids' heads!
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_5035.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_5031.JPG

Battery Box and interior winch mount
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_5033.JPG

Just a little room left over!
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_5034.JPG

Had to paint some interior panels to match.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_4982.JPG

Here is how it all looks!
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_5030.JPG

[VXobsession]

Why didn't you just do this to a Jeep? You hacked up a rare VX and just turned it into a big off-roading machine....you stripped everything out of it that made it unique, that made it a real VX. That sucks....another VX gone.

[espidus]

While my personal opinion is that I want to keep my VX with what makes it unique from alot of other off-road vehicles, like the IFS that gives it better handling for rally and on-road applications, I must say that "someone had to do it" to the SAS. Yes this vehicle is now only a VX in body, but I can say, at least that makes it on hell of a good looking offroad machine. As long as everyone does not go this route, I say "hats off", I would not do it to my own, but good work anyways.

[Mile High VX]

Why didn't you just do this to a Jeep? You hacked up a rare VX and just turned it into a big off-roading machine....you stripped everything out of it that made it unique, that made it a real VX. That sucks....another VX gone.

I think if you start at the beginning of the thread it makes sense as he started with an abused VX with engine issues. It had been sitting idle for over a year, so in essence it was already gone. Cost more to fix than you would ever get back.

Congrats on the build....it's looking good and he's taken a "dead" VX and brought it back to usefulness...hats off!

[sleveritt]

Yeah, those previous guys can kiss my ***** right in the crack! I've always appreciated the quality of Isuzu vehicles but there are SEVERE limitations as to building it for serious off-roading (not trail-riding). If you are really impressed by V6 engines and IFS, there are a ton of CUV's out there - but you have to compete with the soccer moms too. It is totally the LOOKS of the vehicle that garner it's attention getting. I've retained those looks for the most part inside and out. The fender flares will have to be modified once the clearance issues are worked out.

Why not do this to a Jeep? Well, for most Jeeps, you have to upgrade the: engine, transmission, transfer case, axles, wheels, tires, etc. That amounts to just starting with a Jeep tub and replacing everything else, but then you have another Jeep (again in name only). Jeep tough with Chevy stuff? What is so unique about that?

Mile High is right? Didn't you pay attention to the first pics? I found a VX for $1000 BECAUSE it was severely abused and neglected with a bad engine. Once I decided that 37" tires were my smallest for consideration for my off-roading, then it dictates upgrading everything else in the driveline - including a CSB V8. (I had enough gear-hunting when driving my Trooper on the interstates with 40mph headwinds.)

As I can't drive it 2 miles to a nearby field without someone following me (or pulling me over - thanks Ozark PD and FD) to see what that awesome vehicle is, I think I've got the mix that I want. That is why it is MY build. Go ahead and add an after-market stereo and ArmorAll the panels. You will have an original. There is certainly a crowd for that. I want to get back to serious off-roading, V8, mechanical linkages, solid axles, and large tires! We can park our vehicles side-by-side sometime and see who gets more walk-arounds...

(If you don't like it now, don't check back. By the end of the summer, I will have completed welding classes and will begin adding some armor to the outside.)

[H3_VX]

I'm cool with the fact he did this to an already beat up VX. If this were to done to a very good/nearmint VX I would be having a serious headache right now. LOL! Its his anyway, he can do what he wants.

[vt_maverick]

Unique vehicles attract unique owners with unique tastes, hence why there are virtually no common aftermarket mods to these trucks beyond the factory cross bars. There just aren't enough of us in agreement on any one given look to make it profitable. As someone said in another thread the front VXC/rowhard faux skidplate is one of the few items that seems to have been a really big hit with a lot of owners.

You can see from the thread that a lot of members disagree with various decisions that have been made along the way, whether philosophical or mechanical. But the bottom line is that this thread contributes to the overall knowledge of the community which is always a good thing. Maybe there aren't a ton of people that would ever consider this entire series of mods, but there are a number of people that say they're interested in V8 swaps and several that have talked at length about roll bars. I applaud the risk taking that makes the community smarter as a whole. :yesy:

[CoastieCosta567]

sleveritt, great job Mae, looks like a VX on roids :D. Just 2 questions, whats a CUV? and did you just compare ever1's VX to a soccer moms vehicle?

VXObsession, man you're blunt. Not ragging at ya for to each there own, and freedom of speech is beautiful, but dang Mae your more blunt then a rasta.

[VXorado]

I love the build, the orange is a little much for me but SAS, V8, roll cage, 37" MT/Rs :drool2:... man you did a ton of cutting to fit those 37s. Totally worth it.

I'm sure your VX looks like a monster. Speaking of which... where are the updated exterior pics? This build thread needs a good shot of your VX to show off the size and tire fitment. :)

[sleveritt]

It's not really orange, the flash from the camera bleaches it out. It truly is red. It's cloudy today but I will try to get it out in the sun tomorrow to get some exterior shots. As such, I'll still need to take it to a nearby berm to see if I can get any of the tires to contact the body. If so, more cutting on the way (the bottom parts were rusty already). Once the fenders are clear, then I'll have to trim the plastic fender flares to match. Once my axle vents come in and get those installed, then it's break-in time on some mild trails. Increase terrain to make sure everything works well in incremental steps.

CUV = Cross-over Utility Vehicle (car-based unibody)

No, I didn't compare everyone's VX to CUV's. The VX is more like a PUV = Performance Utility Vehicle (SUV on speed)! As to which "performance" you want, to each their own. From my time at 5 previous Zuzoo's in Moab, I was impressed with the out-of-the-box off-road performance I saw, but more could be done. Since I already wanted my current upgrades (even back in my Trooper days) when I discover this "donor" vehicle - a vision was born.

Those other guys were upset because I got rid of the IFS and V6 engine, supposedly the things that make the VX "unique". If that is all those guys were after, almost every CUV have those already and at least manufacturer support as they are current production models. More mainstream for the masses. No style, no unique body. Bland.

As noted, unique vehicles = unique people, don't be surprised by what you see. Look at it, not for you? Move on. Look at it, like it? Make a friend. Bitch about someone else's hard work, piss them off, cause a rift, make an enemy. I dare say members wouldn't act like that at a public event face-to-face, so what makes it acceptable online?

[VXorado]

It's not really orange, the flash from the camera bleaches it out. It truly is red. It's cloudy today but I will try to get it out in the sun tomorrow to get some exterior shots. As such, I'll still need to take it to a nearby berm to see if I can get any of the tires to contact the body. If so, more cutting on the way (the bottom parts were rusty already). Once the fenders are clear, then I'll have to trim the plastic fender flares to match. Once my axle vents come in and get those installed, then it's break-in time on some mild trails. Increase terrain to make sure everything works well in incremental steps.


I've been trying to de-orange/red my interior for a while so I thought it was funny that your going in the opposite direction and adding more color. To each his own, I like the idea of going without carpets, I would just rhinoline it black or grey for my own look.

Really though your rig is great. I hope to get the SAS myself... someday :yesb:

Looking forward to the Nuke VX pics.

[taylorRichie]

I have a 'mintish' 60K mile VX, and I would have no problem with this being done to it. I really don't see the VX becoming a 'valuable' collectors car. I think it's value from here on will be around the $10K - 12K mark. For even the mintest. (Maybe I'm wrong, I'd like to be) IMO It's still a VX, the body is what makes it a VX, not much else. (being shared components from Troopers, rodeos etc.)

My dream is a 4BT, or Isuzu 4BD1T transplant. I've flirted with selling the VX a number of times (because it doesn't get driven like it should) but I can never bring myself to let it go.

Great Build!

[SinJin]

(If you don't like it now, don't check back. By the end of the summer, I will have completed welding classes and will begin adding some armor to the outside.)
:driver:

Love it !

Please continue to add updates, it's amazing !!!

[sleveritt]

Pretty good amount of droop on this side.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_5079.JPG

Some tuck on this side
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_5077.JPG

The amount of clearance with this amount of weight on it. This should do for now.
[img]http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_5078.JPG

Here are some pics of just how red the interior really is.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_5093.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_5087.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_5086.JPG

[sleveritt]

Unfortunately, there are no pics of my VX in action. Sadly, my younger brother had a bit of misfortune both days of wheeling (besides the 105 degree temperatures at Superlift in Hot Springs, AR in July).

So why no pics? The first day ended when he laid his Jeep over in an excessively deep mudhole that ultimately claimed his wife's iPhone 4S that he was using for pictures and videos. If it wasn't for the charging cord, he would have lost the phone all together.

Day #2 was basic wheeling on 3-5 diamond trails the again found my younger brother with his Jeep on it's side. His front driveshaft broke (no 4x4), his brakes were failing, and the radiator developed a leak that about emptied the coolant system. It took most of the day to drag him bag to civilization.

As for my VX, everything worked OK with the exception of some overheating issues. (I'm working on it.) Looks like I will still to perform some fender trimming on the rear as there was still rubbing issues.


http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_6697.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_6701.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_6705.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_6729.JPG

[Bob Barker]

That thing looks wicked sitting all tall like that!

Have you given any thought to making a list of necessities in doing a swap like this? I'm sure it's massive but maybe a general overview for us interested in it someday. I like the idea of planting a new f-150 4x4 drive line in it, one with the eco boost v6.

[HeckaTrebeka]

Man, that is a crazy VX!!! I love it! Granted, I don't think I would be so die-hard to do that to mine. I think I'm the type of person that would do small mods for now to make it unique to my tastes, but still keep most of the VX in tact. I got my VX from the original owner and he was really easy on it, so I want to baby it myself but still take the trails that it would normally be able to tackle with the gear it already has.

Where did you get those switches from that are showing in the interior next to your steering wheel? I was thinking about doing something like that when I mod in a TOD-off switch.

[sleveritt]

The list is extensive, yet simple.
Work backwards from tire size.
I did a bunch of calculations before I came to the realization that the tire size I wanted would not work with my axles.
From there, choose axles that will fit reasonably close (Scout Dana 44 just a couple of inches off) or prepare for axle width customization.
Don't forget to figure in where the differentials are in relation to the proposed transfer case (L/R/C front and rear).
Get replacement engine measured to make sure it will fit between firewall and radiator, then between hood and proposed axle height. (This is the time to consider if you want A/C and where you can fit a battery too.)
Get replacement transmission/transfer case measured to make sure it will fit to engine (with or without adapters) and the transmission tunnel.
Fab up some engine mounts and modify transmission support.
Suspension? Coil over springs are quite easy to fab and mount while accounting for shock placement.
Get driveshaft lengths measured to find junkyard or order new ones.

The rest was just customizations - upgrade to chrome-moly axles shafts, ARB Lockers, aftermarket gauges, A/C, Tom Woods off-set U-joints, Warn locking hubs, roll bars, front/rear receiver hitches, winch, etc.

[Mile High VX]

Very cool sir...hats off to you...:bwgy::smilewink:bgwo::bgwo::bgwb:

[sleveritt]

Those rocker switches come with the purchase of the ARB lockers. One is for pump on, 2nd is for rear, 3rd is front (set to be activated in that order). They have a blue light to show when each is activated.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_5093.JPG

[Ascinder]

Where did you get those switches from that are showing in the interior next to your steering wheel? I was thinking about doing something like that when I mod in a TOD-off switch.

Here ya go: LINK (http://www.otrattw.com/index.php)

[HeckaTrebeka]

Sick! Thanks, Ascinder :D

[LittleBeast]

Sweet!!!!! Looks awesome and I am sure it outperforms nearly every VX on the rocks and Mudd :-) So what is next?

[sleveritt]

The push-style fans on the front of the condensor were reading ~750LFM at the front, ~400LFM at the rear, and ~200LFM through the radiator. Importantly, there is about 1.75 inches between the two with little "channeling" of air to the radiator. The bottom has a small lip, but the sides were open.

So I removed the front auxillary fan (not the A/C one) and got to work on these:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_6759.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_6766.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/IMG_6777.JPG

Of course, since the install I've not had a chance to go off-roading, the temps will be in the 70's today, but street "driving" showed no signs of overheating. The fit was pretty tight, but there is still ~2 inches of clearance between the fans and the pulleys. We will see...

[PK]

Sleveritt, I am sorry, but I think you have gone in the wrong direction with this.

The amount of engine cooling you need is directly related to the amount of power the engine is producing.
The fans are there to help the increase air flow through the radiator when you are travelling slowly, or stopped in traffic. At these times, the engine is not working hard, but the radiator still needs air flow. What you have done will possible help in this instance.

But by far the greatest amount of cooling is needed when you are travelling at highway speeds, uphills etc, when you have the gas pedal to the floor.
At these times the fans do little, or no work at all.
The air flow through the entire radiator frontal surface caused by your forward motion is enough to cool the engine.
The cover plate you have installed will reduce this air flow by around 50% by the look of your installation.

Bottom line is that I think you will overheat on extended highway driving.

I hope I am wrong for your sake, but have a plan B for getting home the first time you go for a long drive.

Regards

PK

[sleveritt]

Did you notice which way to radiator tubes are facing??? I said the front "pushers" weren't working, so I removed one (and only one, leaving the A/C condensor fan), and started working on these (for the rear).

The metal is a shroud from the rear with the fans there. Basic geometry for circles and rectangles proves that without a shroud, you are giving up over half the working surface area of the radiator.

Nice try though!;)

[PK]

Did you notice which way to radiator tubes are facing??? I said the front "pushers" weren't working, so I removed one (and only one, leaving the A/C condensor fan), and started working on these (for the rear).

The metal is a shroud from the rear with the fans there. Basic geometry for circles and rectangles proves that without a shroud, you are giving up over half the working surface area of the radiator.

Nice try though!;)



Okay, think what you like.

I hope it works for you.

PK

[chadzu]

Are the dual electric fans still running the full side shrouds? I think what PK is getting at is how can the air trapped by the shroud you made get out. I am sure that the answer is through the fan holes, but if the sides of the fans mount to the rad surface doesn't that in effect create a seal that would hinder air from moving from the aluminum shround area to the holes for the fan? If you plan on mounting the fans to the aluminum shroud instead of the radiator I can see this working, but I'm not sure if you leave the fans mounted to the radiator.

[Triathlete]

I think chadzu is on to something^^^

[sleveritt]

I think you guys are not thinkly clearly. Why is this so hard for you to understand? Air enters the front of the radiator either passively (below 185 degrees, the fans are off) or actively PULLED through (above 185 degrees) and exits out the rear. When active, the fans pull air from the entire surface area because of the shroud, blowing the heat into the engine compartment. All of this is exactly like 98% of the OEM market and aftermarket radiator systems. Don't believe me? Check out Griffin radiators or Jeg's or wherever. Bottom line - Shrouds are a must! Check out this month's Four Wheeler magazine too.

Also, the fan is not directly against the fins. I just laid them on there to get a feel of the overall dimensions. The fans come with little springs to keep the separation about 3/4 to 1". Thereby drawing air from the entire shrouded surface area, again just like OEM. I bet you didn't even notice the weather stripping holding the shroud even further out either. It can be seen best near the bottom tank.

PK, you really need to rethink your logic. You have two contradicting statements - "But by far the greatest amount of cooling is needed when you are travelling at highway speeds (NOT TRUE AT ALL), uphills (TRUE)etc, when you have the gas pedal to the floor.
At these times the fans do little, or no work at all. The air flow through the entire radiator frontal surface caused by your forward motion is enough to cool the engine (THIS PART IS TRUE)."

Again, Four Wheeler has a great article if things still seem unclear or try Pirate4x4 - Bella Vista's The Cooling Bible.

[PK]

Good on you Sleveritt. Stick to you guns.



35 years as a mechanical engineer designing (among other things) all sorts of cooling systems for engines, transmissions, gas turbines, and hydraulics, should have taught me a couple of things about cooling and air flow.

Just have the guts to let us know the real results when you do a long test drive through the hills.

And as I said before - good luck, I hope it works for you.

PK

[Bob Barker]

The back side of the radiator on my SVO is shrouded just like what you're building, except the fans sit side by side it's basically identicle. My fans are on a manually operated switch, and at cruising speed I never ever have to turn them on. What your building should work so long as the fans plastic base don't create a seal and by what you've said they shouldn't.

[sleveritt]

Good on you Sleveritt. Stick to you guns.

35 years as a mechanical engineer designing (among other things) all sorts of cooling systems for engines, transmissions, gas turbines, and hydraulics, should have taught me a couple of things about cooling and air flow.


So PK, does that mean that the ENTIRE automotive industry is wrong because you can't understand that I've replicated the same setup on my rig? If so, then enlighten us with your ground-breaking NEW design that is completely different!!! I'd like to see somone on here become a millionaire! Did you even visit any of those websites or read that article?

Anyone here (besides the guy that looked under his hood) go outside and check under their hoods to see if there aren't fans and shrouds ON THE BACK of the radiator? Well, I did. Both GM products have the same setup (save my diesel has a mechanical fan).

Or perhaps, PK, you can "man-up" and admit that you mis-interpretted my setup.

I'll stick to my position and bet money on it. Want to put a nominal amount of cash where your mouth is?

[Triathlete]

I think the problem (at least for me) was I was going on your pictures in which the fans were sitting on the radiator. That is why I was agreeing with chadzu.

[VXorado]

FF dynamics agrees with PK. :yesy:

FF Dynamics sell their electric fan conversions with a smaller shroud. When I asked about the shroud being 2" short on each side of the radiator, this was the reply I received.



Hi Jon,

You received the correct size for your radiator, we do not build custom shroud kits that cover the entire radiator core, we only cover enough of the radiator for maximum fan efficiency and maximum cooling. If the shroud was to cover the entire radiator, air flow from normal driving would be obstructed and the vehicle would overheat on the highway. By leaving enough of the radiator exposed around the shroud there will be no high pressure areas and air will freely blow through the radiator without obstruction at speeds faster than 30 MPH. But rest assured, this system has been tried and tested over the years and it will cool your vehicle without any problems what so ever. All of our fan systems are built for maximum efficiency across the board, from cooling, to gas mileage to performance.


Any other questions, just let us know.


Thanks!
FFD

[PK]

FF dynamics agrees with PK. :yesy:

FF Dynamics sell their electric fan conversions with a smaller shroud. When I asked about the shroud being 2" short on each side of the radiator, this was the reply I received.

Thank you VXorado.
I never wanted this to become a p*ssing contest, just some friendly advice.
I have no problems at all with the fans being behind the radiator, and having a shroud. In fact, a shroud is a must.
It is the amount of radiator that you are blanking off that will have no effect on how the fans work, but will seriously restrict the amount of air flow through your radiator at highway speeds.

Whatever you end up doing, I hope it works for you.
If you end up in Moab next year, I hope we can shake hands and have a beer as we look at your rig.

PK

[sleveritt]

Well, different companies having different techniques I guess because my diesel shroud is enclosed all the way around (diesel mechanical fan though) and on a GM SUV, as well. Trust me, these are on-highway vehicles only. I was going on what I saw in my garage and what I read for OFF-ROADING:

Four Wheeler Magazine - "Keeping Your Cool: Cooling System Tech"
The fan shroud should cover as much of the radiator as possible. Don’t be afraid to trim the fan shroud slightly to clear the water inlet or outlet. Do make sure that the shroud seals against the radiator all the way around. It’s ideal to have the fan motor mounted 1 to 2 inches away from the radiator, although some tight situations call for a low profile fan setup like the one shown here.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/electric_fan_on_radiator.jpg
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/trimmed_fan_shroud.jpg

Then Griffin radiators (King of the Hammers sponsor) has this from the Cooling Bible

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/SDC10516_resize.jpg

As you can see, no gaps whatsoever, but these are off-roading designs. And really, when you look at my rig what is the first thing that pops to mind? How many highway miles does it drive or how much fun it is to off-road that thing? This is our third vehicle and only intended as "inclimate weather use" and off-road. I got a diesel and car hauler for extended trips. (Nothing made me sweat more than driving the Trooper 1200 miles to Moab, then off-roading it for several days while hoping I didn't break some unique expensive Isuzu part that would prevent me from driving the entire family back home and getting back to my job.)

Also, I've not got the steering monster figured out yet. Still have a constant drift the the right requiring constant turning to the left - even while driving a straight road. Adjusted the aluminum bumpstops to prevent the tires from rubbing the sway bar and track bars. Kept the axle on stands, kept tires off, ran the engine and it didn't move after 15 minutes of idling. Alignment is good on all three axis and squareness. I'll have to keep testing (same thing after driving several miles, maybe street tires, maybe new upgraded PS pump)...

Sam

[Scott Larson]

Man, some people sure do get testy with a little friendly critiquing! After looking closely at all pictures offered, I would be a little concerned too about not only the percentage of the radiator that your fans cover but also the angle of your shroud face in regards to directing air to the fans. The picture of the Griffin radiator shows fans that cover 75% of the rad surface with a stand-off shroud. The pics of your rad shows fans that look to cover considerably less area and appear to be flat mounted to the rad core. Now, I realize that you have rectified that assumption earlier, but the images do tell a different story. If you are new to the whole custom build thing, it is hard to get used to people second-guessing your every decision, but get used to it; even the pros get second guessed by their peers...Don't take it personally. I wish you the very best of luck with your build and hope you can sort out all the details to your satisfaction and don't stop posting!! (Even if you do take some heat for your decisions.) :_brickwal :_beer:

[sleveritt]

...shroud face in regards to directing air to the fans. The picture of the Griffin radiator shows fans that cover 75% of the rad surface with a stand-off shroud.

The math generally works out that ~70% of square radiators can be covered with a round fan, but only ~50-60% can be covered on rectangular radiators. The Griffin picture shows a standard fan/shroud. The Four Wheeler pics are of a "slim line" or low profile fan/shroud. Unfortunately less efficient, but necessary because of the lack of room under the hood. I need to order a vent connector for the upper coolant hose to connect the steam vents from the LS engine and "burp" the system since the hose is higher than the radiator cap. Just a little trapped air just kills the efficiency of the system. Even with all these things the 13 y/o composite/aluminum radiator meant for a aluminum V6 still may not be up the cooling demands of a iron block V8. Only time will tell.

Discussions are fine, but when some says "stick to your guns" - what they are saying is you are wrong. Well, prove it on your end because I have proof on mine. But I'm not above learning from others.

Sam

[Scott Larson]

Good on ya Sam, well said! I do truly believe PK was trying to help though. You have alot of interested people here...:thumbup:

[89Vette]

PK, you really need to rethink your logic. You have two contradicting statements - "But by far the greatest amount of cooling is needed when you are travelling at highway speeds (NOT TRUE AT ALL), uphills (TRUE)etc, when you have the gas pedal to the floor.
At these times the fans do little, or no work at all. The air flow through the entire radiator frontal surface caused by your forward motion is enough to cool the engine (THIS PART IS TRUE)."

Why wouldn't you think the engine is doing a lot of work -- especially with a mega-high-profile jacked truck rolling down the road at hwy speeds? That work creates heat -- and needs cooling?

(Obviously air flow isn't hard to get at speed, but that wasn't the point when PK made the comment.)

Cool project, btw. Lots of know-how went into it for sure.

[sleveritt]

Attaining highway speeds is the greatest amount of work for the engine, by and large, once at that speed maintaining it is much less work. Just works the instant MPG on any newer vehicle for confirmation. Once at highway speeds, most vehicles have adequate passive cooling. Now on the VX, there is not a lot of surface area for that kind of airflow. I've contemplated cutting some air vents on the front fascia, but that would be towards the end of my checklist.

[Scott Larson]

Yeah, the grill on the VX could be a real limiting factor when it comes to air flow through the radiator. You could remove the OEM driving lights and open up those holes, then fab some ducting to route additional air to the rad. Just a thought... It may be tough to retain the original look of the front end.
:_steering

[sleveritt]

After a couple of wheeling events last year, the overheating continued. I had a radiator shop take a look. They said everything looked fine on the outside, but maybe the radiator was getting clogged over the many years of use/abuse. Ordered a new direct replacement radiator & cap a couple of weeks ago. Here was the thing, even though the old radiator had been drained of coolant and transmission fluid, it was still 4 pounds heavier than the new one. Installed last week. After the burping process for the LS engine, everything appears to have been fixed. Just finished wheeling this past weekend at Superlift ORV in Hot Springs, AR with the Arkansas Crawlers (brother is a member) - never had a problem, even when towing a Jeep Cherokee up a mountain trail. That made me exceptionally happy! Now to concentrate on the road wander...

[eternal21]

That made me exceptionally happy! Now to concentrate on the road wander...

Worked wonders for me, but you're a *bit* different, so I dunno if the same thing would work out for you, too.

http://vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=25219

[sleveritt]

Thanks for the suggestion. That is my backup plan if I can find a worn joint/bushing somewhere. Don't want to cover the problem with a band-aid if I can find the root cause. I also want to upgrade the rear track bars to something beefier/adjustable (perhaps some "flexing" is occurring while on the road?). I did a complete hydraulic flush and did find some "water", maybe 10-15mls in 2 quarts. Any amount could have lent itself to creating an emulsion. Oh well, every correction helps.

[sleveritt]

And check out the latest wheeling pics from last weekend at Superlift in Hot Springs, AR

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=25341

[Frankenstein]

I dug up your build thread after looking at your wheeling thread. I love your rig! How high to the bottom of your rockers? If I go bigger than 33s I don't want to cut all that metal out you did. I think you have about the same lift as mine. So maybe 35s for me down the road.

[sleveritt]

25-26" depending on which corner I measure from (with tires aired down to 12psi). Those tires have some seriously stiff sidewalls - oh well, better for not ripping them!

[sleveritt]

Nuke VX Channel with all the Superlift videos

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCuYvOoxyx8NbDRlYCkDHFRA

[sleveritt]

Hey all, I've uploaded more videos! Enjoy!