"Showroom New" Trim Restorer- info & experience

[VX KAT]

I've tried yet another cladding/trim restorer & reconditioning product, so this thread is for all the details.

SHOWROOM NEW - AUTO TRIM RESTORER

This product is a permanent dye for the plastic and rubber trim and cladding.

While I was waiting for my replacement bottle of TC Black Fusion a few weeks back, I started surfing for other products...again. Found a Ford F150 forum where several owners had tried a few "permanent dyes" for the plastic cladding. I don't recall seeing any "dyes" before. Read up on a few and decided on "Showroom New"
http://showroomnewproducts.com/_mgxroot/page_10783.html

It comes in Black and Gray.
Sold on ebay $14.95 + $3.50 shipping or twin pack for $27.99 + $5.35.
I also bought the smaller sponge roller & tray.
:http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313&_nkw=showroom+new+dye&_sacat=See-All-Categories

I ordered both, to mix them and get a nice dark charcoal color. Seller advised mixing was OK.

~ Mixed colors in a glass jar, decided on a 2:1 black to gray ratio. Used all 4 oz of black, and 2 oz of gray. Used sponge roller for application.

~ Surface prep is only washing with soap. I used the pressure washer soap/rinse at the coin car wash place. Blasted with soap for 7 mins or so, same for rinse.

~ Did entire truck, and a 2nd coat on front bumper when I ran out. Took about 3-4 hrs.

~ Took about 6 hrs to really finish drying, and almost all of the streaking went away. See pics.

~ Emailed manufacturer for tips/advice. Some streaking can occur, but was advised not to keep rolling over and over as it does cause it to dry more rapidly. Also, use sufficient product to coat area, and do NOT try to stretch product (like I did on front bumper 2nd coat!)

~ Ordered another 4 oz Black. Got it a week later, mixed up same 2:1 mix.

~ This time I used a 4" foam brush. The roller tended to spew product out of the edges from the centrifugal force, causing you to go over and over it, eventually the product gets too dry to spread properly.

~Did entire truck again with foam brush. Really mastered application technique of long broad light strokes and had very minimal streaking.

~ I had a real problem with the front bumper on driver's side, since this was where I ran out the first time, and couldn't address the streaks any further cuzs it was drying out. When I used the foam brush for the next coat, it evened out some, but I still wasn't happy.

~ Got wild idea to try sanding area on the front driver's side bumper. :freek: Used 2000 grit sandpaper by hand and was able to sand down the thicker splotches.
*** I can ASSURE you this is NOT a topical treatment, it's a dye that's absorbed into the plastic. I couldn't sand the color off despite 30 minutes of rubbing. I ended up with very dark gray particles on the ground after sanding.
I also wiped it aggressively with a wet textured shop rag....nothing came off on rag...so rain will not affect it whatsoever.

~ Used the foam brush and a fair amount of product and redid the front corner again. You can smooth out the product using the entire FLAT SIDE of the foam brush with lighter and lighter strokes to get it smooth. It came out better, but not perfect.

~ Rest of truck came out great, very minimal streaking. After thorough drying, almost all the streaks are gone. I'm very satisfied and love the darker charcoal gray color! It's way way darker than it was.

~It's not sticky, tacky or oily in any way, just a dry matte finish.
Looks like mine is just a notch lighter than Ebenezr's with the Black Fusion. WAHOO! Finally! :thumbup: :dan_ban::dan_ban:

~ MYSTERY SOLVED on my strange cladding!!! My cladding was definitely "coated" or dyed that lighter gray color. It's highly probable it's the "gray" ShowRoom New product. This explains several mysteries...why all my scuffs on the sills and the flat part of rear bumper where you load cargo in/out all scrapes were dark gray, why my cladding screws are uniformly light gray, why any significant scratches I had on my cladding were dark gray.....it's cuz it was coated with a light gray color and the scratches got down to the OEM color cladding!! Any scratches or abrasions can be touched up with a foam brush.

And ya'll don't ever have to hear me whinning again about my light cladding!!! :thumbup:

~ One last point....I no longer have a "gas tat".....:(......:goof:

I've uploaded lots of detailed application and comparison pics in picasaweb. You can zoom in on each pic to see really close details.
https://picasaweb.google.com/114757442466168457700/ShowroomNewPermanentDyeCladdingTreatment?authkey=G v1sRgCMCwuI2QovLMYw&feat=directlink


Here's a few pics of the finished masterpiece! (my hood is not latched so it's up a little bit in these pics)
I think it will look great with the silver skid plates that Rowhard is finishing up.
I also installed my clear front turn signal lens covers I got from Bantan!
I have a slight indent in pass door cladding you can see in pics.
(that's snow flakes in some of these pics....brrr.....)

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3151.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3159.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3160.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3181.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3174.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3028_2.JPG


http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF2975.JPG



Really shows how light my cladding was. Also, the SN was just freshly applied, very wet. Don't panic (yet)...the streaks magically disappear after it's dried....just do light coats and don't keep rolling it.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF2985.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF2977.JPG


This is after first coat, not yet completely dry.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3030.JPG


This was after 2nd coat...But this was my problem area cuz I tried to stretch the stuff too far and rolled it too much causing it to dry faster and those streaks weren't budging. Check out the color difference in the front fog lamp area! WAHOO!!
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF2990.JPG

[vt_maverick]

:eek: :eek: :eek: THAT'S AMAZING SUE!!! :thumbup:

How hard was it to apply in the fog light recesses?

[vt_maverick]

And for comparison's sake for new members, this is a good before and after from Sue's gallery:

BEFORE:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSC_2706.JPG

AFTER:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3151.JPG

[Ebenezr]

Looks really good. Hey....your cars better than my car! No fair.

[VX KAT]

Looks really good. Hey....your cars better than my car! No fair.

Nuh-uh...you got cool rims and are lifted!! Yours is cooler!

[VX KAT]

I removed the front round fog lights and my turn signal lenses. For the fog light area I used a 1" foam brush and kind of did a 360 motion holding the brush in the same angle. It came out OK, there's a few fine lines on the horizontal surface.

I haven't done the sills or door jams or rear bumper flat area when you open the door. I also have a lot of little areas I need to do some touching up around the cladding screws and a few small tiny spots on the upward facing portion of cladding where it meets the paint. My tape job wasn't perfect. I'm going to use a thin hobby paint brush to do these areas.

I'm not as patient as you Ashley, nor is my hand as steady, I'm sure,.....so I've learned to live with some compromises.....you could do a more precise job than I did, by far!

Oh, this stuff doesn't stick to the paint or plastic lenses either because it's not porous, it just rubs off like it was a dry piece of mud.

It does, on the other hand stick to ANYTHING else...so wear black everything! I spilled the roller tray on my right thigh, soaked through my pants...didn't address it for about 5 hrs......left me with about a 8" x 5" skin tat! :freek: I scrubbed with everything I could think of that night and got the solid black off, but I still (8 days later!) have a pale black splotch on my thigh.....:goof:

[Mile High VX]

Nice work Sue!

[VX KAT]

Forgot to mention...look how it completely hide/covered the abrasion on the edge of the front bumper, on the part that wraps around and is part of the fender. A certain branch in Moab scraped that up and the scratches were dark gray......now ya can't even see anything there ....:eek:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3178.JPG

[tomdietrying]

Looks really good Sue! Did you do the hood insert or did you not have to?
Tom

[VX KAT]

Looks really good Sue! Did you do the hood insert or did you not have to?
Tom

No, didn't do it...yet. I have one coat of Restore/Refinish on it and need to try to blast that off. It is starting to peel off. I'm hoping the smooth surface allows the R/R to be blasted off as easily as the cladding surface did...

[VXjunky]

when comparing pics with ebenezers (w/TC Black Fusion) and kats comp pics....think im going with the "showroom new", product....
Now if it holds up as well as R. Payne professes Black Fusion Does....

The S/N seems less blotchy and more uniform....could be just the pics

[RICHARD PAYNE]

It sounds like alot of work to me; we still love the Black Fusion but I understand you had a problem with it. We have never had a problem.

[VX KAT]

It sounds like alot of work to me; we still love the Black Fusion but I understand you had a problem with it. We have never had a problem.

About the same amount of work as BF, I'm just very slow. Problem was possibly with the product getting frozen or too cold in shipment to me (according to prez) or something wrong with the sprayer, or both. This S/N is permanent permanent permanent dye....I can even apply BF on top of it. Now that I got the matte dark charcoal color I've been after, I'm kind of hesitating making it even darker with BF. The black or nearly black cladding looks really good on the lighter colors and black ones...maybe not so good on my darker Foxfire. Or maybe I'm just afraid of messing something up since I've got it at a stage I really like now. For some reason, I'm hearing this in my brain..."If ain't broken...." :thumbup:

[RICHARD PAYNE]

Heck, if your happy keep it the way it is and you can always try Black Fusion on it if and when it fades. We use it on every VX and have not had a problem except that the light grey ones definately need two coats. Glad you are happy and is that not what it is all about?

[technocoy]

EXTREMELY cool Kat. I'm going to be really interested to see if this turns out to finally, really be permanent. That would rock.

The fact that it penetrated deep enough to color the plastic you had sanded off give me a lot of hope.

I know you'll keep us posted.

Also, FREAKING CONGRATULATIONS!!!! I'm glad you are finally happy with your cladding. It looks amazing now. Awesome, also, thanks for being the guinea pig!

[rowhard]

very nice. how dark is the gray by it's self? Will wait for a six month southwest sun beating down on it to decide. This doesn't mean another color change does it:confused::bwgy:

[gergmon]

Again Sue amazing job! I'm going to dye my cladding black for sure!

[VX KAT]

very nice. how dark is the gray by it's self? Will wait for a six month southwest sun beating down on it to decide. This doesn't mean another color change does it:confused::bwgy:

It's about the color of my OLD cladding....really...a pretty light gray. I sent pics to the prez of company and she said it did appear "likely" my cladding had their gray dye on it, or something similar.

Because mine is garaged 24/7 except when driving it, it's not ever going to get a true "AZ" sun beating....so won't be a fair test.

Really wanted to get this cladding issue taken care of now because I can't wait for Rowhaard to ship my silver skid plates. The darker cladding will look so much better with the silver plates!

Got it all really muddy yesterday thanks to 4" of snow melting on my dirt road, so first test will see if the mud had any affect on it.

[rowhard]

Really wanted to get this cladding issue taken care of now because I can't wait for you to ship my silver skid plates. The darker cladding will look so much better with the silver plates!

The first silver or the darker gray silver

[VX KAT]

The first silver or the darker gray silver

The second paint code I sent you...slightly darker than the first I picked.

[VX KAT]

UPDATE: Drove it through heavy mud, let it sit on it for 2 days.
Took it to drive through car wash today....

a) It's still on despite being blasted a little with the pressure washer in the beginning of the tunnel....:dan_ban:
b) It all came clean, with no staining or other marks !! :dan_ban::dan_ban:
c) It wiped dry with a rag, no color or anything came off on towel!! :dan_ban::dan_ban::dan_ban:
d) It's still dark gray!! :dan_ban::dan_ban::dan_ban::dan_ban:
http://www.pic4ever.com/images/greenstars.gifhttp://www.pic4ever.com/images/47b20s0.gif

STAY TUNED.................http://serve.mysmiley.net/party/party0051.gif (http://www.mysmiley.net)

[Luna X]

I gotta hand it to ya Sue... you get more done on your VX than I do... keep up the good work!

[Junster]

What a remarkable difference. Your cladding looks so new, the darker color really looks great. Gratz

[VX KAT]

Latest update:

Got a bunch of trail rash a few days ago, on both paint and cladding. (See pics at very bottom of post)
Used Meguiar's medium cut compound on the paint, worked great.

Scratches on cladding were pretty light, but still were physically scratched into cladding.

After thinking on it for a few days....decided to use the applicator that came with the TC Black Fusion...a sponge covered in a terry cloth fabric.

Had a little dye mixture left, so dipped the sponge tip and top 1/2" or so.

Pics make cladding appear a little lighter than it is...but it's still a dark charcoal.

Applied in broad light strokes, WORKED PERFECTLY!!! Leaves no streaks or texture marks, and you can control how much is applied. I got rid of the streaks I did have using this. Plus, it used the product very sparingly...whereas I thought it would absorb and waste a lot of it.

I'm now 100% sure I can touch up any scratches in the future. Nothing chipped off, it's totally absorbed into the plastic.
Mfg has a topcoat product I'm going to look into for details. But if it's topical and can chip off I'll skip it.

*** THIS IS ABSOLUTELY THE BEST APPLICATOR TO USE TO APPLY THIS DYE ***
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3393.JPG

Can see scratches with the sunlight just right. But the dye just covered it pretty much, but since they're physically there, you can still see them in certain light.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3369.JPG



3rd coat significantly improved problem area I had on this corner.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3382.JPG


http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3371.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3376.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3377.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3374.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF33891.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3391.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3378.JPG




WAIT, whose paw prints are those? Cody!!!!
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3366.JPG

Pics of trail rash while still dusty.

[Grif]

Most impressive. Good work Kat!

[VX KAT]

FORGOT one other point... This stuff doesn't collect as much dust as my nekkid cladding! I can't explain it, but am wondering if it has something to do with static electricity. My nekkid cladding always had some when I'd wipe the dust off with a dry towel or car duster, but now it doesn't. :_thinking

You can see in my trail pics, after 3 hrs on a really dusty trail, eatin' dust from in front of me the entire time, there isn't as much dust clinging to it as in the past. There's a little more toward the rear, and there's plenty on the magnabra as you can see from where I wiped some areas.

[LiquidVX]

looks excellent. Will have to give this a go myself.

[Ebenezr]

Kat have you looked into any leather products. (haven't searched threads) I asked a guy at church yesterday about products to redye the red leather interior I have. He makes saddles. He suggested "melatonin shoe cream" or the shoe repair people have a spray dye. anyone have any thoughts on this.?

[Mile High VX]

I use this...but they don't have the red...

http://www.leathermagic.com/Pages/isuzucolrchart.htm

[VXjunky]

Mile Hi........are we gray # 1 or gray #2?

[Mile High VX]

Mile Hi........are we gray # 1 or gray #2?

Grey #1. It's the darker of the two options and matches best in my opinion.

[VX KAT]

Another update....
I wanted it a little darker, so I mixed up another batch, using a little more black and have plenty left to do touch ups in the future..
Color is just perfect for me, really nice dark charcoal.
I'm absolutely happy with the color now!:thumbup:
Plus it looks good with my matte finish grill.

Those of you that want true BLACK cladding, using just the black will definitely get you there!

Last pic shows you can still see original texture of cladding. Means this stuff is mostly going into the plastic, not coating it. And it's really a matte/flat finish, not shiny at all, despite pics making it appear like it has a little sheen.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3489.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3483.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3481.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3473.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3475.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3468.JPG

[etlsport]

awesome Sue, I think i found me a sumer project

[vt_maverick]

Looks great Sue!

[mike nomy]

Although your cladding looks much better in the after pics, i still really think mine look better with the Gatorback finish. i don't know y everyone is so skeptical about it... it's been on my truck for like 6 months now n survived this past nasty new york winter.... and it lookd like i did it yesterday. actually, it looks like i never did anything to the cladding, it looks like 1999! the stuf u used shows streaks, but the gatorback dries to a completely smooth, even finish... and it doesn't chip peel or fade. or at least, it hasn't, and believe me when i say i'm not easy on my vx. hardly ever wash her, dirt, mud and road salt covered the cladding ALL winter, n when i finally washed it all off, the cladding looked as good as it did the day i sprayed it with gatorback. and also, it only took about 1 1/2 hours to do, start to finish....
i don't know, i'm just really happy with it and wish more of u guys would try it

[VXjunky]

i googled the gatorback....which of the four products listed is the one youre using...and what was the cost?

[mike nomy]

i used the spray cans... 4 cans total for 2 full coats. i bought the black, not the dark grey, i think it looks awesome. i think the cans were $20 each, which, to me is a small investment for such a great outcome

[VXjunky]

sue...i think your truck looks great....

[VX KAT]

Although your cladding looks much better in the after pics, i still really think mine look better with the Gatorback finish. i don't know y everyone is so skeptical about it... it's been on my truck for like 6 months now n survived this past nasty new york winter.... and it lookd like i did it yesterday. actually, it looks like i never did anything to the cladding, it looks like 1999! the stuf u used shows streaks, but the gatorback dries to a completely smooth, even finish... and it doesn't chip peel or fade. or at least, it hasn't, and believe me when i say i'm not easy on my vx. hardly ever wash her, dirt, mud and road salt covered the cladding ALL winter, n when i finally washed it all off, the cladding looked as good as it did the day i sprayed it with gatorback. and also, it only took about 1 1/2 hours to do, start to finish....
i don't know, i'm just really happy with it and wish more of u guys would try it

Glad to hear the GB is looking good and holding up so well for you. I agree, GB looks smoother and totally uniform, and SN left a few streaks. BUT, after reading tons of posts on the Chevy Avalanche and another forum (can't recall name right now), I read many accounts of GB scratching off, peeling/chipping when abraded. Already went through it with the Restore/Refinish.

I live in one of the prickliest/pokey/sharp/stickers/abrasion capital of the U.S.....the desert SouthWest AND I go off-roading, AND I live on a dirt road so EVERY day is like an off road adventure...so ABRASION is GOING to happen to my VX, no doubt about it.

He!! I got all kinds of trail rash last week when we went on an outing in the hills around here visiting 3 old mines....everything was overgrown on the trail and lots of rocky areas too, so I actually used 4Lo for a while. The stuff that grows around here is called "catsclaw"...wanna guess why? And my other friend is the ever present prickly pear cacti, but let's not forget my very BEST friend....the Manzanita bushes. Manzanita grows about 3-5 ft tall ....conveniently the same height as the side of a car, and has extremely stiff branches...and for some damn reason it lines just about every trail I've been on.....and that's what left all those purdy scratches on my paint and cladding.

The difference is, GB would scratch, chip and then start to peel in my setting. This dye product just leaves the scratch in the plastic cladding...just like it was native cladding....with no chipping or further deterioration. So for ME, this is the better choice of product. But GB may well be best for you and most others. It's just an individual choice and what meets your needs. All I wanted was darker cladding with no maintenance....and I think I've achieved that.

How long it took ME to apply it, or how many coats I chose to apply is irrelevant. And since I'm the first to try this product, I now know using the sponge covered in terry cloth is the best applicator...but unfortunately, I didn't discover that until coating #3. So folks that try it from here out should have far less streaking, if any at all, based on what I learned. Price I paid for being the guinea pig I guess.
And as an additional benny, it's way cheaper than GB. How'd I get that lucky? :thumbup:

It ain't perfect, but neither am I , so look at it this way, we're BOTH happy with our cladding! :thumbup:

[mike nomy]

no problem, i'm glad u r happy with the results u have received.
i wonder if it could b sprayed on with a spray gun, to get a perfect finish????

something to try.
i definitely was not trying to put yer results down, i was just wondering y so many people were against GB...
i guess translation sometimes gets lost over the interweb lol.

[vt_maverick]

Don't feel bad Mike, honest debate is what makes this forum so useful, you can read tons of threads that show different opinions based on multiple perspectives, which I think ultimately makes it easier to choose.

I know for me (and likely others) we're not in either camp; we're waiting to see what happens with both options. You may be too new to remember, but we had a ton of folks that used the Refinish Restorer stuff a year or two ago and were just as enthusiastic as you. Although many have had sustained success, others like Sue discovered disadvantages within six months to a year.

Also keep in mind that about 90% of people who post things like "That's awesome Sue, can't wait to try it out" probably won't actually try it out for months, years, or even at all. Likewise we have tons of "lurkers" who simply read our posts and never comment, so it's difficult to know how many GB converts you've actually generated.

No matter what I know the community appreciates you diving in first to add more useful info to the site. :thumbup:

[VX KAT]

no problem, i'm glad u r happy with the results u have received.
i wonder if it could b sprayed on with a spray gun, to get a perfect finish????

something to try.
i definitely was not trying to put yer results down, i was just wondering y so many people were against GB...
i guess translation sometimes gets lost over the interweb lol.

Sorry if I came across snappy! Didn't mean to. Yes, you can spray this stuff, but I wasn't brave enough to try it. I think Mav hit the nail on the head, since I had R/R fail within about 6 months, and since I posted so much about it (:rollo:) I think folks are really waiting on the time test for GB. Which sounds like we're right there now and I'd guess some give it a try. :thumbup:

[LittleBeast]

I for one don't mind a little elbow grease pretty consistantly and I don't want anything to be permanent so I have always used "back to black" but I am glad Kat found this stuff, I would have to see it in person first though because I prefer the shine that I get with back to black and this stuff looks very matte. To each there own, but Kat this looks like a huge improvement!!!!! And almost better than new, nicely done. I have a feeling you are going to keep getting it a little darker with each coat, which is what I prefer ;-)

Do you think this would soak in to our side view mirror's plastic and our rails and rail covers? If so I would consider doing those black..... Hmmmm

[VXjunky]

gotta agree love the shine for our cladding...dresses her up to the 9's imo

[VX KAT]

I have a feeling you are going to keep getting it a little darker with each coat, which is what I prefer ;-)

Do you think this would soak in to our side view mirror's plastic and our rails and rail covers? If so I would consider doing those black..... Hmmmm
No, I'm done applying it..it's dark enough for me now.
I kinda was wondering about the other plastics myself....so I did one exterior door handle.....seems to have worked. The mirror housing seems like a different plastic. I could test on the bottom of it....hmmm.....

I'd also like to do the hood insert.....it still has R/R on it, although it's peeling on the leading edge. I did find the dye seemed to penetrate the R/R in a few areas it still remained on the cladding.

You can apply B2B or any normal topical dressing on top of this.

My hubby is rooting for me to start on another mod, and finally close the book on the cladding!:laugho:

[Grif]

I'd also like to do the hood insert.....it still has R/R on it, although it's peeling on the leading edge. I did find the dye seemed to penetrate the R/R in a few areas it still remained on the cladding.



I fail to understand why people (admittedly myself at times) are tempted to treat the hood insert with the same plastic treatments we apply to our cladding.

The hood insert is entirely different material. It is traditional matte black auto paint, not solid raw molded polypropylene (sp?) like our cladding is. The dyes and refinishes designed for our plastic cladding are not appropriate imho, for the surface paint of the hood insert. Simply because they are similar colors does not mean they should be treated the same.


BTW: I pulled the trigger on two bottles of black dye. Your trail rash pics sold me Kat.

I intend on cleaning my cladding with denatured alcohol, wait till it evaporates, then dye. Walmart has some terrycloth coated sponge applicators similar to what you used. I may or may not top it off with the last of my R/R if I decide it needs a touch of gloss, but we shall see!?

[LiquidVX]

This treatment looks easy enough for me to do but I want my cladding to be a flat olive-drab greyish color. How is this achieved without the texture of Line-X?

[VX KAT]

I fail to understand why people (admittedly myself at times) are tempted to treat the hood insert with the same plastic treatments we apply to our cladding.

The hood insert is entirely different material. It is traditional matte black auto paint, not solid raw molded polypropylene (sp?) like our cladding is. The dyes and refinishes designed for our plastic cladding are not appropriate imho, for the surface paint of the hood insert. Simply because they are similar colors does not mean they should be treated the same.


BTW: I pulled the trigger on two bottles of black dye. Your trail rash pics sold me Kat.

I intend on cleaning my cladding with denatured alcohol, wait till it evaporates, then dye. Walmart has some terrycloth coated sponge applicators similar to what you used. I may or may not top it off with the last of my R/R if I decide it needs a touch of gloss, but we shall see!?

Yeah, I see your point...I guess we kind of have a tendency to just "think" of it as another piece of cladding because of the color, like you said. Although mine is definitely a lighter color, not a black, not even a dark charcoal color, so maybe mine was treated/painted/coated with something to make it that lighter color, like I believe my cladding was.

I found the darker charcoal cladding looked fine with the insert as is. I think I'll leave it alone for now. Let the R/R continue to peel off.

I also noticed in the bright sun, (vs the overcast sky when I took the pics) the cladding does have a slight sheen to it, not shiny, but definitely a little satin/sheen. I liked it!:thumbup:

Follow Up observation...I was on several dirt roads today and after I got home, I again noticed the cladding had a little less dust/dirt than before. There's still some there, but it's definitely "less". Why, I don't know....:_thinking

I bought a little 5 oz glass jar with a rubber seal at the hobby store for my mixture. It has very little air space in the jar and hopefully won't dry up and will be useable for quite some time.

As I was out and about all day today driving around, every time I came walking up the truck, I was so happy with the color. Kinda embarassing how such a stupid little thing can make one so happy...:laugho: :slap:
And you know what they say...."if momma ain't happy, aint nobody happy"! :laugho:

[atilla_the_fun]

Hi Guys, I ordered 3 bottles of this product two weeks ago for 53$ shipped. I applied this thursday with assistance from my girlfriend and my father. We used a foam roller and foam brushes as per the instructions. The original color for our VXs is full BLACK, not a mixture. It dries a lighter matte black than the color it looks as it goes on.

I have to say that I DO NOT RECOMMEND this product to anyone looking to have a professional looking bumper restoration DONE WITHOUT SPRAYING.

After using this I have the following reservations:
-This may be sold as a dye, but it is really a PAINT. It goes on like a paint, it streaks like a paint and it dries like a paint. It may have dye like properties - but it cannot really be classified as a "dye."
-This stuff cannot be applied to the VX bumper without streaking. Foam brushes should NOT be used - the foam roller will put the paint/dye on OK but because of the heavy curves of our cladding, it must be used along with brushes around the edges and the bolts/lights and this will result in some ugly looking borders.
-The product may be of high enough quality that it can be used to cover our cladding, but it MUST be sprayed (thinned according to the instructions) for an EVEN coating. Using rollers and brushes is a really horrible way of doing this.
-The product is NOT GAS PROOF... yeah, well this was probably obvious, but it really delineates the difference between a dye and a paint. On my way back to MN from Virginia today, my girlfriend overfilled the tank and had gas streaking down the cladding. She went to blot with a paper towel and to my surprise it came off full of black - the paint was coming off - something I wouldn't suspect a dye to do.



-THE MIRROR AND ROOF RAILS/SPOILER CAN BE DONE, BUT IT GOES ON COMPLETELY AS PAINT ON THESE PLASTICS. They aren't porous and the brush strokes on the mirror holder/door part look really horrible. You may be able to spray this plastic, but I reccommend a real plastic paint, or base/clear for these parts

-DO NOT TRY ON THE HOOD INSERT. This really shows the quality of the dye/paint as it goes on blotchy, streaky and looks like a 2$ walmart paint quart.


_____
For the price of buying a sprayer/thinner and the SN, buy gatorback. Aerosolized sprays will go on MUCH nicer than anything put on by a brush.

I can post pictures if people are interested, but I just got back from a 22 hour drive and I'm going to bed.

[VX KAT]

Oh no, I'm so sorry to hear that! Have you done a 2nd (or 3rd) coat yet? It definitely gets much better after the 2nd and 3rd light coating. Oddly, even though it says it dries completely in like 2 hrs or so, I found it looked better on day 2 and day 3 (no kidding)....

Spraying would definitely give a more uniform application, I just wasn't skilled enough to attempt it. I did succeed to be streak free in many areas, especially when I used the sponge covered in terry cloth as an applicator. But I've got to add I got the back door and bumper completely streak free with the foam brush, and again with the the terry covered sponge. I didn't have the issue around the edges of the lights.

I didn't try it on the mirrors or the hood insert....definitely won't do it now.

Doesn't gasoline have similar properties/components to turpentine and mineral spirits, which you can use to clean up this stuff? So isn't that why it came off on the paper towel?

Would really like to see some pics of what you've described. Sure hope another coat improves it for you.

[mike nomy]

Hi Guys, I ordered 3 bottles of this product two weeks ago for 53$ shipped. I applied this thursday with assistance from my girlfriend and my father. We used a foam roller and foam brushes as per the instructions. The original color for our VXs is full BLACK, not a mixture. It dries a lighter matte black than the color it looks as it goes on.

I have to say that I DO NOT RECOMMEND this product to anyone looking to have a professional looking bumper restoration DONE WITHOUT SPRAYING.

After using this I have the following reservations:
-This may be sold as a dye, but it is really a PAINT. It goes on like a paint, it streaks like a paint and it dries like a paint. It may have dye like properties - but it cannot really be classified as a "dye."
-This stuff cannot be applied to the VX bumper without streaking. Foam brushes should NOT be used - the foam roller will put the paint/dye on OK but because of the heavy curves of our cladding, it must be used along with brushes around the edges and the bolts/lights and this will result in some ugly looking borders.
-The product may be of high enough quality that it can be used to cover our cladding, but it MUST be sprayed (thinned according to the instructions) for an EVEN coating. Using rollers and brushes is a really horrible way of doing this.
-The product is NOT GAS PROOF... yeah, well this was probably obvious, but it really delineates the difference between a dye and a paint. On my way back to MN from Virginia today, my girlfriend overfilled the tank and had gas streaking down the cladding. She went to blot with a paper towel and to my surprise it came off full of black - the paint was coming off - something I wouldn't suspect a dye to do.



-THE MIRROR AND ROOF RAILS/SPOILER CAN BE DONE, BUT IT GOES ON COMPLETELY AS PAINT ON THESE PLASTICS. They aren't porous and the brush strokes on the mirror holder/door part look really horrible. You may be able to spray this plastic, but I reccommend a real plastic paint, or base/clear for these parts

-DO NOT TRY ON THE HOOD INSERT. This really shows the quality of the dye/paint as it goes on blotchy, streaky and looks like a 2$ walmart paint quart.


_____
For the price of buying a sprayer/thinner and the SN, buy gatorback. Aerosolized sprays will go on MUCH nicer than anything put on by a brush.

I can post pictures if people are interested, but I just got back from a 22 hour drive and I'm going to bed.

FINALLY!!! I'm definitely not happy that your results weren't as expected, but I do feel slightly vindicated now, as far as my support for GB. I didn't want to say it earlier, but a true dye product is something that the cladding would have had to be dunked into and let to sit, while the dye stains it... not a roll on or spray on application. it is mearly another top coat, just like GB, only difference is that for a few extra bucks and alot less work, GB comes out perfect. When I sprayed it on, i coud actually see and hear it bubbling, bonding to the cladding. and after only 1 coat, it looked amazing. after the second coat, it looked flawless. i also did my mirrors, which now look like they did in '99. I didn't do the roof rack because it was the end of the season, and was getting windy, so i didn't really want to risk it going everywhere else, not to mention that i did it at work, in between appointments, so time was kinda limited. with that said, the cladding came out flawless. I really recommend trying it.

[VX KAT]

It worked well for me, wasn't the easiest to get a perfect finish. I was the guinea pig, and it took me 3 coats to find the best applicator. and then ...:rollo:...I decided I wanted it a tad darker....thus application #4.:laugho:

What's great is now other VXers have two more excellent choices for their cladding! :thumbup:

[Luna X]

I have nothing to say..................................

[VX KAT]

I have nothing to say..................................
yup, just wait until you see mine in person Dan.....:bgwb:

[VXjunky]

bottom line sue....if youre happy...aint that what its about....and judging by the smiles you attest to...walking up on your girl all day...seems momma be happy

[VX KAT]

bottom line sue....if youre happy...aint that what its about....and judging by the smiles you attest to...walking up on your girl all day...seems momma be happy

Yup! Momma be a happy camper! :thumbup:
I'm on to my next mod.....:rotate:

[Grif]

Ok, got my two bottles of "Showroom New" black, and even a spare bottle of 3M (bondo) "Restore Black" dye as a backup, plus at least one or two applications of R/R left in my big tub of R/R.

BTW: reviews of the "Restore Black" 3M product on this site indicate much the same results as the other dye products. I frankly am thinking all dye products are essentially the same, and require multiple coats and patience to set in and careful application.

So Kat... before I proceed. Final thoughts on applying "Showroom New"? Applicators, technique , prep beforehand? My cladding is in generally good shape, not too faded, but some nasty trail rash. Want to get black, not shiny, just mask the rash get an even color and remove some moderate fading.

The plan so far is wash traditionally, prep with denatured alchohol (which I find is a great cladding cleaner) and apply the dye(s) lightly in three or four coats, 8 hours time to set tween coats, using a terry coated foam pad.

Got a prob with that? hehe

[VX KAT]

Ok, got my two bottles of "Showroom New" black, and even a spare bottle of 3M (bondo) "Restore Black" dye as a backup, plus at least one or two applications of R/R left in my big tub of R/R.

BTW: reviews of the "Restore Black" 3M product on this site indicate much the same results as the other dye products. I frankly am thinking all dye products are essentially the same, and require multiple coats and patience to set in and careful application.

So Kat... before I proceed. Final thoughts on applying "Showroom New"? Applicators, technique , prep beforehand? My cladding is in generally good shape, not too faded, but some nasty trail rash. Want to get black, not shiny, just mask the rash get an even color and remove some moderate fading.

The plan so far is wash traditionally, prep with denatured alchohol (which I find is a great cladding cleaner) and apply the dye(s) lightly in three or four coats, 8 hours time to set tween coats, using a terry coated foam pad.

Got a prob with that? hehe

Sounds perfect. I did notice the prep instructions said to wash plastic with soap....was surprised it wasn't more involved. But I'd do what you outlined with the denatured alcohol.

~Plan on only doing no more than 2 ft at a time.

~I just dipped the CORNER of the square sponge pad with terry cloth, got about 1/2" - 3/4" of dye on that corner.

~Splotched/dabbed it on a few places of my intended work area, than started doing the wiping with the pad.

~As the sponge absorbs more and more dye, you can press/squeeze on it harder with your fingers to discharge more dye while you are applying it.

~After you get the wettest part applied, (after just a few strokes) then use progressively lighter pressure to kind of smooth the product.

~when it's wet, it can look very streaky.....wait it out until it's dry for a day or so.

~it definitely surface dries faster in warmer weather.

~A big mistake I made was to keep wiping and wiping trying to get it perfect....the product ends up drying out by doing that and then you can't get it smoothed out. That's what went wrong on my front driver's corner.

~Plan your stroke pattern ahead of time on the front corners.

~Don't try to stretch the product- HUGE MISTAKE, makes it dry even faster.

~It comes off the paint really pretty easy, so don't freak if you get some on. I used a vinyl eraser for some spots that were a little tougher and didn't "scratch off" with my nail.

~I have 4 coats on, 3 was actually better...aim for 3.

~With that in mind, if you see an area drying too much and you still want to smooth it out, dip the sponge again, add more dye and try it again.

~Yes, you can add fresh dye onto wet area you just did. It's like a 2nd coat.
May want to go a little heavy with it over the trail rash areas.

~I did it sitting on a rolling stool, was perfect level and allowed me to do wide swipes on the door panels particularly, so I swiped from front door edge to rear door edge, as straight across as I could.

If you find the sponge terry cloth thing isn't putting enough product on, maybe try a foam brush for coat 1 or 2, it will put more product on than the terry sponge.

It is definitely not a shiny product AT ALL, it's has a little bit of sheen in sun, but not much.

Take pics!

Wish Atilla would post some pics or give some more input.

Good luck!

[VX KAT]

Try it yet Grif?

[Grif]

Try it yet Grif?

Sadly, not yet. I had told my friends that my intentions for the weekend were to "F@#$ off and dye" lol... But the dye portion of that never happened, we f@#$ed off and had a BBQ.

Instead I replaced my interior driver side door panel with a much nicer one, did some audio stuff and reseated some gimpy cladding (which really needed to be done).

Next time I have have a good solid 2-3 days, (since 2-3 coats and 8 hr cure time) the dye job is on the list. Thanks for asking, and I know you want PICS!!

hehe

[VXjunky]

my favorite name for a beauty salon...."Curl Up and Dye"....sorry scrambled brains and flash backs

[Marlin]

I just about finished doing mine. I went with straight black. Very neat stuff!! Took me about one bottle to do 75% of the truck. I did a half hearted scrubbing. Seems to be working great. I just put it on with a cheap 1" paint brush. The streaks dried perfectly fine. Thanks for the find Sue! After my URE trip, I will post up how it holds up to pressure washing and mud. It makes the truck look new again! (well, minus the herculined hood and fenders, the rear mounted tire, the mudders, rims, hood scoop....:rolleyes:)

[VX KAT]

Sounds perfect. I did notice the prep instructions said to wash plastic with soap....was surprised it wasn't more involved. But I'd do what you outlined with the denatured alcohol.

~Plan on only doing no more than 2 ft at a time.

~I just dipped the CORNER of the square sponge pad with terry cloth, got about 1/2" - 3/4" of dye on that corner.

~Splotched/dabbed it on a few places of my intended work area, than started doing the wiping with the pad.

~As the sponge absorbs more and more dye, you can press/squeeze on it harder with your fingers to discharge more dye while you are applying it.

~After you get the wettest part applied, (after just a few strokes) then use progressively lighter pressure to kind of smooth the product.

~when it's wet, it can look very streaky.....wait it out until it's dry for a day or so.

~it definitely surface dries faster in warmer weather.

~A big mistake I made was to keep wiping and wiping trying to get it perfect....the product ends up drying out by doing that and then you can't get it smoothed out. That's what went wrong on my front driver's corner.

~Plan your stroke pattern ahead of time on the front corners.

~Don't try to stretch the product- HUGE MISTAKE, makes it dry even faster.

~It comes off the paint really pretty easy, so don't freak if you get some on. I used a vinyl eraser for some spots that were a little tougher and didn't "scratch off" with my nail.

~I have 4 coats on, 3 was actually better...aim for 3.

~With that in mind, if you see an area drying too much and you still want to smooth it out, dip the sponge again, add more dye and try it again.

~Yes, you can add fresh dye onto wet area you just did. It's like a 2nd coat.
May want to go a little heavy with it over the trail rash areas.

~I did it sitting on a rolling stool, was perfect level and allowed me to do wide swipes on the door panels particularly, so I swiped from front door edge to rear door edge, as straight across as I could.

If you find the sponge terry cloth thing isn't putting enough product on, maybe try a foam brush for coat 1 or 2, it will put more product on than the terry sponge.

It is definitely not a shiny product AT ALL, it's has a little bit of sheen in sun, but not much.

Take pics!

Wish Atilla would post some pics or give some more input.

Good luck!

Good to hear it worked out for you Marlin.

Greg (gergmon) came up yesterday and we did his in the black. Used a foam brush for first coat, then the terry cloth/sponge for 2nd coat. Used 2 full bottles.

SOME MORE TIPS:
~When applying it with the foam brush or terry sponge be aware of the pressure your fingers are putting on it, as we found that makes streaks where you apply your finger pressure. Solve this by holding your applicator with your finger tips pointing up and make your stokes go left to right, right to left, AND use progressively lighter pressure.

~Greg discovered you can use your gloved hand to smooth the surface after it's had a just few minutes to set.

~SAND PAPER- One area got a little thick cuz somebody kept rubbing it :p, so Greg tried to sand it with some 1500 and 2000 grit. Probably actually need a little courser grade. It was pretty dry but it did smooth it a little bit.

~He applied it on the mirror housings. At first it left brush/applicator marks (probably what Atilla was talking about). So then Greg tried rubbing it with his gloved hand and a light sanding with 2000. More dye, repeat a few times. It came out pretty good. That plastic is pretty light gray (like our roof rails), and it darkened it tremendously. It seemed like it was absorbing it since the sand paper didn't make a bald area.

He's going to buy some more and try spraying the next/final coat on.

His cladding was really dark to begin with and this only darkened it a little more. It does appear the "Black" is not a jet black, but more a charcoal black.

[Moncha]

To assure even pressure, could you use something like a rubber sanding block?

[VX KAT]

To assure even pressure, could you use something like a rubber sanding block?

Yes, that'd work. Figure out some way to attach the sponge thing.

[Grif]

I laid down two coats of "Showroom New" today, and it looks really good!! Used about 8/10ths of a bottle. Very minor blotchiness that does indeed appear to go away as the stuff dries. Its going to get another coat tomorrow I think. But man it sure made the trail rash disappear! I really couldn't be happier. It did exactly as I had expected.

It does tend to stick to our plastic lighting lenses tho. A a wipe or bit of scrubbing will remove it if fresh, goo-gone removes it nicely even when dry. Stuff REALLY liked to stick to my fuel door for some strange reason.

Its more work than R/R and the results are completely different so IMHO the products should not be expected to compare. They are intended to do two different things IMHO. This is definitely a colorizer, not a refinisher. I wonder if they will play well together?

[VX KAT]

Great to hear Grif! What's you use to apply it? And wow, how'd you get 2 coats out of 8/10 of a bottle?:_thinking

Since the same company sells some type of topcoat product, I just get the feeling R/R would work on top of this, just my hunch though.

[Grif]

Great to hear Grif! What's you use to apply it? And wow, how'd you get 2 coats out of 8/10 of a bottle?:_thinking

Since the same company sells some type of topcoat product, I just get the feeling R/R would work on top of this, just my hunch though.

I used terrycloth covered foam applicators. Round ones from walmart. They came in a pack of 6. Actually 2 terrycloth ones and the rest microfiber covered ones. The microfiber one I tested worked just as well.

As to why I used so little of the product? Well you obviously have more cladding than I do. haha...

Sue I can only surmise that you needed more product due to the fact that your cladding was in worse shape. After all, your cladding was more grey for whatever reason and thus needed more colorant. Overall my cladding wasn't badly faded at all, my intent was to mask the superficial (and some not too superficial) scratches from trail rash and it was a task this product handled with aplomb.

[Grif]

Ok final coat was layed on today.

This time I used a sprayer. I just happened to have one of the Preval® aerosol spray cans that Showroom New recommends and sells. Didn't buy it from them, just knew I had one here in the batcave somewhere.

Diluted the dye per their instructions with 2 parts mineral spirits to one part dye. I had doubts that that little spray can had enough propellant, but it really worked fairly well.

My intent this time was to even out some minor blotchiness and hope the spray could penetrate some of the crevices that no other applicator could such as the wells around lights, between cladding panels, and deep into the cladding screw wells.

Let me tell you right off the bat that I suck at spray painting. I always cause drips and runs and my fix for either is to spray more which always drips and runs worse.

I knew overspray was going to be an issue, but was confident that with spray can in one hand, a rag damp with mineral spirits in the other, and a dry rag at my belt to mop up any errant problems all should be ok. My plan worked well. Got the dye really into the problem areas without too much drip and was able to quickly remove any overspray on the body and lenses.

I hit the problem hard to get areas, then did a general light coat to even out. I did get some drips of course, but really, it all works out ok. Once you dilute the stuff, its really mostly solvent at that point. There are only miniscule amounts of solids in the dye. The rest is solvent which is going to evaporate away eventually. So when you get drips and runs, just let them dry fully, you wont see 99% of it a few hours later. If you do, a clean applicator dampened with mineral spirits and VERY light pressure will even it out. I think the same process will work if you have streaks after hand application as well.

All told over the weekend project I ended up using 1.5 bottles of dye, about 10 ounces of mineral spirits, three terry/micofiber coated applicators, four terrycloth rags, a few blue shop papertowels and one Preval sprayer can which is prolly 1/4 full still. Oh, and about 6 rubber gloves.

YMMV

[VX KAT]

Wow, great details. Glad somebody tried the spray method.
The solvent issue must be why the streaks disappeared so dramatically for me over several hrs.

Pictures!!!????

[VXjunky]

so....an airbrush will achieve the same results?

[Grif]

Yes Sue, when you look at how the stuff really works its 98% solvent from the getgo already. When you dilute it even more for spraying it still covers very well.

Pretty sure I know whats in this stuff, and could prolly make my own at this point.

[Grif]

so....an airbrush will achieve the same results?

Airbrush would be ideal.

If i had one, i would have used it. Just be sure to dilute.

[Marlin]

Just got back from URE. I dragged the whole drivers side down a mud wall, enough that it was all that kept me from tipping. The cladding was scratched, but still black!! The mud washed off, and it still looks good. I am sold on this stuff now!

[VX KAT]

Just got back from URE. I dragged the whole drivers side down a mud wall, enough that it was all that kept me from tipping. The cladding was scratched, but still black!! The mud washed off, and it still looks good. I am sold on this stuff now!

Probably a good example of where GatorBack would NOT be the product of choice. But hey, if you don't plan on dragging the entire side of your truck on the ground like Marlin (:rollo:), GB would be perfect.

GB gives that perfect smooth finish too, looks so good...but folks like Marlin would just chew it up and destroy it...what's that program called "Destroyed in Seconds"?....I'll bet that's what Marlin's parents said alot when he was growing up...:p:laugho:

[Child's Play]

but when I do, I use SHOWROOM NEW TRIM RESTORER!!!! This stuff did an unbelievable job on my completely faded cladding on my new VX. I used straight black, applying two coats; one by hand and the second using a Preval Sprayer. Anyone can do this with some patience. Here's some pics. for the people still on the fence. :yesb:

A big shout out to Sue (VX Kat) for being the first to try this!!!!!!



http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/Drivers_Side.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/Cladding_Half_Half_Full_SRN.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/Cladding_Half_Half_Close_Up_SRN.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/Cladding_Close_Up_After_SRN.JPG
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/2/Cladding_Full_After_SRN.JPG

[Marlin]

I think you guys are spending way too much time on the application. I just used a greenie and dish soap to clean the cladding, quick and dirty. I then brushed it on with a crappy Harbor Freight paint brush. No fancy feathering, not sponging, one coat covered it just fine. The imperfections will wash out over time. I have had mine covered in mud, dragged across a mud bank, scratched the cladding, its still black. Great stuff!!!

[VX KAT]

I think you guys are spending way too much time on the application. I just used a greenie and dish soap to clean the cladding, quick and dirty. I then brushed it on with a crappy Harbor Freight paint brush. No fancy feathering, not sponging, one coat covered it just fine. The imperfections will wash out over time. I have had mine covered in mud, dragged across a mud bank, scratched the cladding, its still black. Great stuff!!!

Um, yeah, we've seen what you "do" to yer truck Marlin.....:freek:....:p :laugho:...:slap:
Some of us actually like to have a good coat of "clean" to look at on ours...and with nice cladding too! :laugho:

[VX KAT]

but when I do, I use SHOWROOM NEW TRIM RESTORER!!!! This stuff did an unbelievable job on my completely faded cladding on my new VX. I used straight black, applying two coats; one by hand and the second using a Preval Sprayer. Anyone can do this with some patience. Here's some pics. for the people still on the fence. :yesb:

A big shout out to Sue (VX Kat) for being the first to try this!!!!!!

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/2/Cladding_Full_After_SRN.JPG[/LEFT]

WoW! :freek: that's amazing! That darker shade looks soooooo good with the Ebony! And the cladding screws really accent it nicely! Did you paint them silver or replace with stainless?

[Child's Play]

WoW! :freek: that's amazing! That darker shade looks soooooo good with the Ebony! And the cladding screws really accent it nicely! Did you paint them silver or replace with stainless?

Painted with Kaiser Silver and cleared..... Gonna paint the hood insert the same color due to it being so oxidized.... Hopefully will look pretty good when completed.

[Grif]

Yarp, looks great! Thats quite an improvement.

[samneil2000]

You need to edit your post and press enter after each picture. That way they stack vertically vs horizontally.

[Child's Play]

You need to edit your post and press enter after each picture. That way they stack vertically vs horizontally.

Done..... Thanks for the info... The looked vertical to me so I don't know why they were horizontal for you.

CP

[VX KAT]

Done..... Thanks for the info... The looked vertical to me so I don't know why they were horizontal for you.

CP

Are you using a Mac? I have a Mac, and the gang taught me to hit return after each pic.

[JAMAS]

Looks amazing. I am definitely gonna do it.

How did you like that sprayer thing?...much overspray?


and what did you do about your mirrors? I too have mirror covers (Carbon Fiber)

[Child's Play]

Looks amazing. I am definitely gonna do it.

How did you like that sprayer thing?...much overspray?


and what did you do about your mirrors? I too have mirror covers (Carbon Fiber)

I really liked how the Preval Sprayer worked overall. It gave the tint a nice, "smooth" appearance compared to wiping it on with a terry cloth on the first coat. I would suggest doing the first coat as I did and using the sprayer for the second as you don't want to have to put a lot on with the sprayer as to prevent runs of the dye.

As far as overspray, yes, there is some. You can see in the pics. that I used 2" painters tape around all of the areas I was going to spray. There was still overspray above the tape, but just use Mineral Spirits and it comes right off. I would still use the tape so that you do not have to get close to the cladding with Mineral Spirits when cleaning up, or you could just use plastic above the tape. I think it was quicker just to clean up afterwards with mineral spirits.

Didn't do anything with the mirrors yet.... I'm thinking about painting them body color (at least where the chrome mirror covers are not), but not sure yet.

P.S. I used two entire bottles for the cladding and half moon for two coats.... Just an FYI for anyone looking for usage.

[JAMAS]

I am about to place an order for some cladding juice.....

A few questions before I click "buy"...

1. will 2 bottles get the job done?
2. Should I apply the first coat with terry cloth or foam brush?
3. How long should I let the first coat dry, before I apply a second coat with preval sprayer?

[Child's Play]

I am about to place an order for some cladding juice.....

A few questions before I click "buy"...

1. will 2 bottles get the job done?
2. Should I apply the first coat with terry cloth or foam brush?
3. How long should I let the first coat dry, before I apply a second coat with preval sprayer?

Jamas,
Here's my 2 cents to your questions:

1. Two bottles got the job done for me with a little left over and my cladding was in BAD shape. You actually need to "cut" the dye when using the sprayer with Mineral Spirits, so the 2nd coat goes a lot further than the 1st that is applied by the terry cloth.

2. I used those round terry cloth wax pads that you can find at Wal_mart or any automotive store. I applied liberally for my 1st coat covering small areas at a time before re-applying the dye to the pad.

3. I let mine dry overnight, but I'm sure you can do it sooner.... There is timing in the included instructions with the dye.

Hope this helps...

CP

[Marlin]

I used a crappy harbor freight brush. As for the time, by the time I was done with the first coat....oh wait, it only took one coat:) One bottle did the whole truck, now I have a full bottle sitting in my garage....just in case.

[VX KAT]

I am about to place an order for some cladding juice.....

A few questions before I click "buy"...

1. will 2 bottles get the job done?
2. Should I apply the first coat with terry cloth or foam brush?
3. How long should I let the first coat dry, before I apply a second coat with preval sprayer?


Jamas,
Here's my 2 cents to your questions:

1. Two bottles got the job done for me with a little left over and my cladding was in BAD shape. You actually need to "cut" the dye when using the sprayer with Mineral Spirits, so the 2nd coat goes a lot further than the 1st that is applied by the terry cloth.
I used 1.5 bottles on my 1st coat, but some (like Grif) have reported using far less, so I must have put it on extra thick or something. ** And remember, DO NOT try to stretch the product...it just ends up too thin, drying too quickly and you can't easily smooth out the streaks.** ALSO..... I'd buy 3 bottles....I ended up re-ordering 3 times (:rollo:) cuz I used it up doing 4 coats.....now you won't be doing 4 coats I presume, but I'd definitely have an extra bottle on hand. In fact, cuz I'm such a genius and mixed the 2 colors, I have to have 2 extra bottles on hand...:goof:


2. I used those round terry cloth wax pads that you can find at Wal_mart or any automotive store. I applied liberally for my 1st coat covering small areas at a time before re-applying the dye to the pad. If you're going to do 1st coat by hand and 2nd coat with sprayer, I think either the sponge brush or the terry covered sponge would be fine for 1st coat. I actually preferred the terry covered sponge, Seems like it held lots of product and I could control a bit how I expelled it.
**but be ware of allowing your fingers to imprint on the terry sponge or sponge brush, as it'll make streaks that way....apply it with an even pressure. If you're getting streaks, try doing it with fingers perpendicular to ground.

3. I let mine dry overnight, but I'm sure you can do it sooner.... There is timing in the included instructions with the dye.
It says something like 2 hrs to dry but I DEFINITELY saw a change after 6+ hrs....it just got better and better with time.....so I'd wait at least that long, but agree with CP...overnight would be best.

Hope this helps...

CP

Definitely do small sections at a time. And try to do the entire door panels in one full stroke, from edge to edge, it will look better that way...but this may be irrelevant since you're going to be spraying a 2nd coat.

Good luck...take lots of pics!! :wave:

[JAMAS]

You actually need to "cut" the dye when using the sprayer with Mineral Spirits

is there documentation or a recommended dilution/cut ratio?

[Child's Play]

is there documentation or a recommended dilution/cut ratio?

Yes, the ratio is in the included instruction, I believe it is 2-1 MS to Dye, but don't quote me ;)

CP

[JAMAS]

but don't quote me ;)
...:)

[JAMAS]

Have either of you (CP or Sue) tried to use this stuff on roof racks, spoilers, door handles, etc?

[JAMAS]

From their site....

For the Black dye a 2 mineral spirits to 1 dye ratio is about right but check your manual for its own ratio needs.

The Grey dye is thicker and is approximately a 3:1 ratio. Watch the sprayer for spitting.

[Child's Play]

From their site....

For the Black dye a 2 mineral spirits to 1 dye ratio is about right but check your manual for its own ratio needs.

The Grey dye is thicker and is approximately a 3:1 ratio. Watch the sprayer for spitting.

Just checked my notes (yes, I'm anal retentive) when I got home.... Used 2-1 ratio MS - Dye.

Used on Door Handles only as they are the same plastic as the cladding... I did not use on the roof rack, spoiler or hood insert as I was not sold that this would do the trick... Painting my hood insert and may paint my mirrors body color.... Not sure what I'm going to do with the rack & spoiler at this point

[VX KAT]

Have either of you (CP or Sue) tried to use this stuff on roof racks, spoilers, door handles, etc?

I did door handles, very lightly and yes, it did act like it was cladding. I also skipped doing the mirrors, rails, spoiler or insert as I didn't think it would absorb the same, since it seems to be s shiny, smooth, denser "plastic".

Did you buy gray or just black? Are you mixing color? just curious.... and yes the gray is thicker, so the mfg told me to add the black TO the gray when I mixed it.

[Grif]

Ditto what the others have said. Terrycloth covered foam pads for first coat, waited about an hour to dry, followed by preval sprayer diluted 2:1 with mineral spirits. Used approx 1.5 bottles of all black. Door handles OK, pretty much anything else NOT OK as the stuff wont penetrate correctly.

As an aside, I did test the the half moon area with some Refinish Restorer afterward and advise against it. The solvents in RR will lift the dye and cause streaking, which was easily fixed with more Showroom New dye.

[JAMAS]

As an aside, I did test the the half moon area with some Refinish Restorer afterward and advise against it. The solvents in RR will lift the dye and cause streaking, which was easily fixed with more Showroom New dye.

I want to make sure I understand correctly......

So, "refinish restorer" is bad on the half moon after applying the "showroom new", but Showroom New applied to the half moon withOUT any additional restoring products is ok?

[JAMAS]

Did you buy gray or just black? Are you mixing color?

I am going all black. My VX is already all blacked out so I figure the blacker the better. As long as it isn't shiny, I'll be happy.

[Marlin]

Showroom new eliminates the need for any kind of armorall type product. It makes the plastic and not shiny. Good stuff. Mud has no effect on it. Still nice and black.

[VX KAT]

I want to make sure I understand correctly......

So, "refinish restorer" is bad on the half moon after applying the "showroom new", but Showroom New applied to the half moon withOUT any additional restoring products is ok?

Correct, I used SN on the half moon, came out beautiful, no streaks at all cuz it's a small area and you can apply it easily in continuous strokes. ....and just to muddy it up a bit..I left the R/R on my half moon and didn't blast it off with the pressure washer...and the SN went on and soaked in apparently just fine.

DId you start on it yesterday?

(Those white streaks at the top of the moon are just in the picture, think it was snow.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3391.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3160.JPG

[vt_maverick]

Showroom new eliminates the need for any kind of armorall type product. It makes the plastic and not shiny. Good stuff. Mud has no effect on it. Still nice and black.

Gotta believe that if you don't treat it with a detailing product at least occasionally you'll need to do this again eventually though. But since it sounds like application is about the same as 2-3 coats of B2B / Armor All / TS-1 maybe preventative maintenance isn't worth it.

[Marlin]

Gotta believe that if you don't treat it with a detailing product at least occasionally you'll need to do this again eventually though. But since it sounds like application is about the same as 2-3 coats of B2B / Armor All / TS-1 maybe preventative maintenance isn't worth it.

I suppose. But how many years does it take to fade the new dye back to a gray color again? I guess we will find out. I can tell you that getting it muddy and pressure washing it had no effect on the color.
I never putting anything else on it again!! SN or nothing.

[vt_maverick]

Does it have a UV protectant? Did the original cladding have a UV inhibitor? I'd think sun would be far more damaging over time than mud or water.

[JAMAS]

DId you start on it yesterday?

No. Planning on doing it on Saturday if it arrives by then.

[Grif]

I want to make sure I understand correctly......

So, "refinish restorer" is bad on the half moon after applying the "showroom new", but Showroom New applied to the half moon withOUT any additional restoring products is ok?

RR and Showroom New do not play well together. The solvents in RR tended to lift the dye off and cause streaking. So I let the RR dry fully then reapplied the Showroom New to fix the streaks without problem.

[JAMAS]

Well I just made my "attempt" at applying this....

story preview.....I'm streaky...and so is the VX's cladding :):)

First mistake: picking the hottest, most humid day. ( I did work in the shade though)

I took the day off work to do this, so I didnt want to wait. I applied first coat with terry cloth disc applicator thingy...definitely needed a second coat. Waited the suggested (on the bottle) 20 minutes max dry time before applying second coat. I now know I should have waited longer.....like a couple hours. Applying the second coat messed with the first (I think). Then I went do use the preval sprayer. HOly crap that messed me up. Mixed the ratio perfect...began to spray and the sprayer was messed up...started spraying out the bottom. Got dye on me and paint thinner on the cladding (similar issue to Grif's RR issues and resolved just as easily). I quickly gave up on the sprayer (half a bottle down the drain) then went to try and repair everything with another coat with the terry cloth applicator. That messed it up more. I waited for it to dry for an hour and tried to apply the little I had left which was probably not enough. SOOOOO sooo frustrating. I got it look "ok" from about 10 feet away.

My plan of attack to fix it is to buy 2 more bottles and apply much more liberally with the roller and maybe foam brush for the crevices.

Hopefuly the next coat with cover the streaks.

The color looks TONS better and it fixed the gas stain on the cladding and the buff job that a PO did. but the streaks are unacceptable in my book. I have to fix it. I can't sleep. Damn VX addiction.:)

[VX KAT]

oh no Jon! You're so precise and meticulous.....so sorry to hear this. :( I think it can still be fixed to your level of acceptable by spraying. Maybe you should order a new Preval sprayer from them, it wasn't too much money.

[JAMAS]

oh no Jon! You're so precise and meticulous.....so sorry to hear this. :( I think it can still be fixed to your level of acceptable by spraying. Maybe you should order a new Preval sprayer from them, it wasn't too much money.

I am terrified of that sprayer now.

[VX KAT]

I am terrified of that sprayer now.

talk to Grif, he used it....maybe can give you some more pointers.

Remember one point I made a while back, I wish I had NOT done a 4th coating...think it looked better at 3. So really decide how you're going to proceed since you're approaching 3.

[JAMAS]

Remember one point I made a while back, I wish I had NOT done a 4th coating...think it looked better at 3. So really decide how you're going to proceed since you're approaching 3.


Why not on the 4th coat?

<bitingMyNails>Sure hope I can make this better.....I'm really anxious to get it fixed.</bitingMyNails>

[VX KAT]

Why not on the 4th coat?



it made it start to look kinda "thicker" like it was becoming a coating. I know the sprayer is diluted so I believe a lesser amount of product is being applied, so maybe spraying a 3rd and even 4th coat would be fine.

When doing coating #1, I got so frustrated and stretched the product. I learned clearly NOT to try to stretch it, so on subsequent coats, I think I went pretty heavy, with this past problem in mind. Soooo....my 4th coat may well have caused it to reach a saturation point, for lack of a better term, and that's why it started looking a little thick. When I recognized that, I backed off some. My gauge was if I could still see the native texture of the cladding.

If I had been doing the SAME COLOR mixture as 1,2,3...I would have STOPPED as soon as I perceived it was looking kinda thick...but being the rocket scientist I am, I had wanted it darker, so coating #4 had to be completed or it would be a 2-tone.....

I just re-read this entire thread, and I think the sprayer is the way to go for you. Grif and Child's Play both did it with the sprayer, so I'm sure they can give you some tips.

The other pointer I want to make....it really does change after 6-8 hrs, and overnight....I don't care what the label says about drying time.....so if you just did it today....at least wait until tomorrow to see how it looks, so you can decide if spraying is the way to go.


Come on, remember these pics...I thought I was going to have a heart attack when I saw these streaks.....but they dried up and blended....and this was when I was doing vertical strokes with the roller, vs. horizontal with the sponge cloth.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF2977.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF2985.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF33891.JPG

[JAMAS]

Grif and Child's Play-

you guys have any tips on using the preval sprayer? I am having difficulty.

[JAMAS]

The other pointer I want to make....it really does change after 6-8 hrs, and overnight....I don't care what the label says about drying time.....so if you just did it today....at least wait until tomorrow to see how it looks, so you can decide if spraying is the way to go.


I did it yesterday morning. I really think the dry time is a big factor in what got me. I am hoping that if I put a good coat on it and "LEAVE IT ALONE JON!!!!" then it will look better. Even with the roller or foam brush.

I let it dry to their spec and rubbed it with a dry terry cloth and black came off.

I will probably try the preval sprayer again in a small area to see if that helps. I am taking back the one and getting another one tomorrow.

[VX KAT]

One other point after I re-read your post....the roller spews the dye out the edges after it's saturated and you can NOT HELP BUT GET STREAKS....since it spews it out in a line on both sides of the roller....you have to address that or those "thicker streaks" will remain....... So....since you're already at coating 1.5 ish...I would NOT use the roller....the terry sponge thing did far, far better.

[JAMAS]

what about the sponge brush?...

I feel like when I put the stuff on the terry cloth applicator, after I made the top pass, and came back with the next row, it rubbed the top pass and created a streak....

if that makes sense....

[JAMAS]

I need practice cladding

[VX KAT]

I did it yesterday morning. I really think the dry time is a big factor in what got me. I am hoping that if I put a good coat on it and "LEAVE IT ALONE JON!!!!" then it will look better. Even with the roller or foam brush.

I let it dry to their spec and rubbed it with a dry terry cloth and black came off.

I will probably try the preval sprayer again in a small area to see if that helps. I am taking back the one and getting another one tomorrow.

Oh, that explains the "I can't sleep" comment...:p

I suffer from the very same "LEAVE IT ALONE....SUE" disease.....BIG TIME!

If it was truly dry, no color should have come off on cloth.


hang in there...I think this can be remedied...

[JAMAS]

hang in there...I think this can be remedied...

I think you are definitely right on that one. Hopefully I can learn from my mistakes and make it better. Perhaps I am the guinea pig that will save others in these little "oopsies"

The only problem is....I have to wait.....I hate unfinished projects:_brickwal.

[Vendetta]

Wow, this got my attention...

I have 4 bottles and some thirsty, faded cladding just waiting for good weather to align with a day off.

JAMAS, I hope it works out for you, bud. I'm planning to pad it on, NOT use a sprayer now. Keep us posted!

[VX KAT]

what about the sponge brush?...

I feel like when I put the stuff on the terry cloth applicator, after I made the top pass, and came back with the next row, it rubbed the top pass and created a streak....

if that makes sense....

I realize you're saying the streak occurs when you overlap a tiny bit on the previous row (I think I interpreted that correctly)...but I think...

?You may be pushing your fingers just a little too hard on the terry sponge, and more product is coming out that you want. When "gergmon" came up to do his in my garage, he kept having that problem, his fingers were pushing too hard on the sponge thing and it made 4 streaks horizontally...so I mentioned to keep your fingers vertical when going horizontally with the applicator.

I think the term is "feathering"...I generously applied the product horizontally and completed a pass on the entire SECTION I was doing, then immediately took the sponge thing and went back over it using lighter and lighter pressure until it looked really uniform......but also DON'T go over so much that it dries it out (I made that mistake on my front driver's bumper).

[VX KAT]

Another thought....how far in are you dunking your sponge cloth thing?

I used a rectangular one, and only dipped mostly the corner, maybe 1/2" -3/4" into the dye. Could it be you have too much product on the sponge and that's why there's streaks being left??

I feathered and feathered with this thing, mostly with out re-dipping.
You can tell which "corner" I used mainly and can tell I laid it a little flatter when I did the feathering..that's how the rest of the cloth got black. It was this technique that smoothed out/blended/evened out the streaks.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3393.JPG

[Grif]

I did it yesterday morning. I really think the dry time is a big factor in what got me. I am hoping that if I put a good coat on it and "LEAVE IT ALONE JON!!!!" then it will look better. Even with the roller or foam brush.

I let it dry to their spec and rubbed it with a dry terry cloth and black came off.

I will probably try the preval sprayer again in a small area to see if that helps. I am taking back the one and getting another one tomorrow.


Yes, dry time is important IMHO. I let sit an hour tween coats in warm but not humid weather. Also did mine in the shade.

Dunno what happened with your Preval sprayer, DO NOT SHAKE it, the cap has a vent hole, it you shake it, it will leak, i found that out the hard way too. Also dont overfill, and always keep the sprayer upright for the same reason. I ended up with dye on my shirt and shoes, and I was trying to be really carefull.


Since the dye is diluted for the spray, the pigment goes on lighter but wetter and requires more dry time. I suck at spray painting so I had a few runs which eventually blended in OK, but resist the temptation to spray more to fix somthing without letting it dry first, thats a sure fire recipe for runs. So spray lightly and let dry fully before going back to fix things. Yes "LEAVE IT ALONE JON!" is exactly what you should do, hehe, at least until it dries fully. Adding more while its still wet is just going to make things worse.

Maybe your sprayer was defective, I dunno. Used carefully I thought it was fairly impressive, tho I did get a bit messy too.

[Hiredgoon]

I had similar results as Jamas, using first the roller, then a foam brush, and then the Preval sprayer. What a mess. What worked for me finally, getting a nice even coat and getting rid of the streaks, was to take the remaining dye, diluted at about 2 parts dye to 1 part spirits on a plain old shop rag (i.e. well worn and many times washed t-shirt) and just lightly wiped it over the whole shebang after it had had two days in the sun to dry. This filled in the streaks (and they were really ugly) pretty much flawlessly. It just took time. I did the pure black dye myself, and I think it looks like new.

[JAMAS]

Maybe your sprayer was defective, I dunno. Used carefully I thought it was fairly impressive, tho I did get a bit messy too.

I took back the "broken" sprayer to my local Rockler shop and they switched it out for a new one. The guy is pretty sure it got clogged...sputtered....then the back pressure filled the glass jar causing it to blow the seal. Apparently if the sprayer starts to sputter, you have to do some crazy hold down the red button and spray while standing on one foot...or somthing like that.

So nervous and anxious to try it.....might try it tonight....maybe...

[JAMAS]

I had similar results as Jamas, using first the roller, then a foam brush, and then the Preval sprayer. What a mess. What worked for me finally, getting a nice even coat and getting rid of the streaks, was to take the remaining dye, diluted at about 2 parts dye to 1 part spirits on a plain old shop rag (i.e. well worn and many times washed t-shirt) and just lightly wiped it over the whole shebang after it had had two days in the sun to dry. This filled in the streaks (and they were really ugly) pretty much flawlessly. It just took time. I did the pure black dye myself, and I think it looks like new.

This sounds promising. Perhaps I will try this first in a small section. Especially since you seem to have had the exact experience I have had and ended your "saga" with success. Although the only thing I have right now is the mixture of 2 parts mineral spirits to 1 part dye that was prepared in the preval sprayer.



At this juncture...my biggest recommendation is to find a wrecked piece of cladding and use it as "practice". Perhaps someone can sawzall up some 1 foot sections and sell them cheap cheap to those wishing to try this process out...just a thought.

[JAMAS]

Alright....I'm back.....with...

SUCCESS!!!!

The preval sprayer worked like a charm. my HORRIBLE streaks are all but a distant memory. I havent seen all of it in the sun yet (did it in the evening when it was cool and shady) but I did see the one side before the sunset too much and it was ...dare I say it....PERFECT!

When spraying, you must....must must must "LEAVE IT ALONE JON!"

I retract this statement:The spray runs something fierce and scares the bajeebus out of you. But somehow, some way....it all fades in and looks terrific. Keep in mind, its a dye not a paint. so it wont dry "raised" ...all those drops will fade away.

I am leaving everything masked off for tonight and might hit a few touch up spots tomorrow. Then I will take some "after" shots to go with my "before" shots and post them for all to see. My fingers are crossed that the sunrise doesn't bring any surprises.

So.....

what I believe to be the best way to apply this....

Step 1: liberrally apply with your choice of applicator pads. Coverage is more important than streaking.

Step 2: let dry for 24 hours

Step 3: Apply second coat in same manner

Step 4: let dry for 24 hours

Step 5: use Preval sprayer. (if preval sprayer starts to "sputter" STOP and read box on how to clear clog)

[VX KAT]

Alright....I'm back.....with...

SUCCESS!!!!

The preval sprayer worked like a charm. my HORRIBLE streaks are all but a distant memory. I havent seen all of it in the sun yet (did it in the evening when it was cool and shady) but I did see the one side before the sunset too much and it was ...dare I say it....PERFECT!



:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
:jump::jump::jump::jump:

[JAMAS]

This morning brought a few surprises and a status change from Perfect to....almost perfect.

The streaking has gone, but a few runs have shown themselves. I did some touch up spray this morning it its almost all better....

I think I will give it a week, then hit the whole thing ONE LAST TIME. regardless of what this morning brought, I still recommend the sprayer.

[Marlin]

You guys are cracking me up. In the Navy, we would say you are nuking it out, meaning you are making something WAY WAY harder than it needs to be. I am telling you, 29cent HF 2" paint brush, one bottle, buy 2 just in case, and away you go. No fancy technique, no sprayer and certainly no mess. The streaks clear out after a few days since it is a dye and not paint. I spent less than 2 hours doing the entire project. Just paint it on, wait a day or two, touch up any lighter spots, and voila, fancy black looking plastic:smack::smack: :dance:

If it isn't 100% to your liking, go spend a bunch of money on a sprayer and whatnot, then go over it again. If it does work, you saved a bunch of money and time. I don't see how there is any risk in this concept?

[JAMAS]

You guys are cracking me up. In the Navy, we would say you are nuking it out, meaning you are making something WAY WAY harder than it needs to be. I am telling you, 29cent HF 2" paint brush, one bottle, buy 2 just in case, and away you go. No fancy technique, no sprayer and certainly no mess. The streaks clear out after a few days since it is a dye and not paint. I spent less than 2 hours doing the entire project. Just paint it on, wait a day or two, touch up any lighter spots, and voila, fancy black looking plastic:smack::smack: :dance:

I must have bought the difficult version then :) ...I think my problem was not waiting long enough. I think the "wait a day or 2" part is the most important.


If it isn't 100% to your liking, go spend a bunch of money on a sprayer and whatnot, then go over it again. If it does work, you saved a bunch of money and time. I don't see how there is any risk in this concept?

The sprayer cost all of $5-$7 (depending on where you buy it)

[vt_maverick]

I had similar results as Jamas, using first the roller, then a foam brush, and then the Preval sprayer. What a mess. What worked for me finally, getting a nice even coat and getting rid of the streaks, was to take the remaining dye, diluted at about 2 parts dye to 1 part spirits on a plain old shop rag (i.e. well worn and many times washed t-shirt) and just lightly wiped it over the whole shebang after it had had two days in the sun to dry. This filled in the streaks (and they were really ugly) pretty much flawlessly. It just took time. I did the pure black dye myself, and I think it looks like new.

Pics? Interested to see the pure black on a Foxfire, I think it looks great on Ironman and Proton but curious to see the contrast against a dark color.

[VXD959]

Has anyone tried a product called "BlackWow"? Just curious as it was mentioned in another forum with good results...Some links to the product below

http://www.showcarsupplies.com/bw/

[JAMAS]

Has anyone tried a product called "BlackWow"? Just curious as it was mentioned in another forum with good results...Some links to the product below

http://www.showcarsupplies.com/bw/

I have not, but one thing that caught my eye is "provides a rich, long lasting look (measured in months)". This indicates its more of a temporary solution that you need to apply to your car on a schedule similar to wax. Showroom New provides a Permanent solution.

[JAMAS]

It might be good on our mirrors/roof rack/etc. though.

[yellowgizmo99]

Ok so was planning on doing this this weekend but they are calling for scattered showers for the next 5 day or so. What would be the shortest time for it to dry before I would have to worry about rain causing a problem. Or at least best guess.

[JAMAS]

Bottle's indicated dry time (20 minutes)....LIES!!..

In my opinion, you shouldn't TOUCH the cladding for at least 24 hours after you put on the first coat.

Best of luck.

[yellowgizmo99]

So if 30 minutes before rain hits think it will be safe till next day?

[JAMAS]

So if 30 minutes before rain hits think it will be safe till next day?

Can you rephrase that?

in my opinion, you shouldnt expose your cladding to anything but dry air for 24 hours. Again, this is my opinion.

[yellowgizmo99]

I was trying to say if it is not going to rain in the next 30 minutes I would be safe to apply the dye. From your above statement I think I will wait till this weather blows over.

[JAMAS]

Yeah, if I would say patience is the one thing I learned from applying this dye.

It looks just fantastic though.

[VX KAT]

Bottle's indicated dry time (20 minutes)....LIES!!..

In my opinion, you shouldn't TOUCH the cladding for at least 24 hours after you put on the first coat.

Best of luck.


I was trying to say if it is not going to rain in the next 30 minutes I would be safe to apply the dye. From your above statement I think I will wait till this weather blows over.


Yeah, if I would say patience is the one thing I learned from applying this dye.

It looks just fantastic though.


I agree....wait until you have many days of clear weather. Mfg told me it dries a little slower in humid weather........ my humidity is only around 12%...and it still took at LEAST 6-8 hrs before it dried (and recall I said it keeps changing in appearance for at least a few hrs so it must be still "drying".


WOW! Yours looks fantastic JAMAS! :thumbup:.......um, oh wait, you didn't post any pics yet....... :rolleyes:
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;)

[JAMAS]

WOW! Yours looks fantastic JAMAS! :thumbup:.......um, oh wait, you didn't post any pics yet....... :rolleyes:
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;)


I know I know I know....I need to take some. I want to run ONE MORE spray coat over top to clear up a couple areas. Then I will take a couple "After" shots:)

[yellowgizmo99]

Yea I remember when I went to Las Vegas and people were complaining that it was in the double digits humidity wise and coming from the east coast on the water I was like it gets that low, lol.

[Cobrajet]

I want to run ONE MORE spray coat over top to clear up a couple areas.

... you must....must must must "LEAVE IT ALONE JON!"

Where have I heard this before?

[JAMAS]

ha! You're probably right. But its been drying for a couple weeks so I think another shot wouldn't hurt.

[VX KAT]

ha! You're probably right. But its been drying for a couple weeks so I think another shot wouldn't hurt.

hmmmm....7/28 to 8/5...that's 8 days by my math..."LEAVE IT ALONE JON" :p

[Grif]

JON... walk away away from the vehicle. srsly Let it sit. More is not better necessarily better.

[VX KAT]

JON... walk away.... srsly.

Don't make us send Grif up there to smack you and take away your sprayer and dye! :slap:......'course if you'd ever post pics we'd see how it looks, then we might not have to send in the heat to control you!

[JAMAS]

You guys are just HILLARIOUS:)

My plan was to spray a couple spots that still showed some drips, but only after a couple weeks. My plan was/is to give it a good scrubbing and reanalyze what , if anything, needs to be done. However, that will occur a week from today. So it will be roughly 2 weeks before I do anything.

[yellowgizmo99]

well I got one day friday to do and was going to do the second coat next day and of course rain came in early so no second coat, will be trying sometime this week after work. I think they are calling for rain every day except wednesday and thursday. Looks good so far, no pics as of yet. for those that used the sprayer what did you use for thinner? OK I found, Mineral Spirits is what is used.

[DaveMcKenz]

Thanks to VX Kat. I was working on my soundproofing project. The weather was nice, 50 degrees and dry. I washed the car, wiped down the cladding with isopropyl alcohol. I thinned the SN with mineral spirits just a little, maybe 25%. I used a 4" foam brush and a throw away bristle brush for tight spots, cladding screws, etc. I have a proton yellow vx, so I used plain black dye. After one coat, the vx looked great, a couple of steaks and misses. The second coat really smoothed it all out. I used approx. 6 oz. of product, and the vx looks great! I could not be more pleased.
Thanks, Sue for being the Guinea pig.
Dave

[VX KAT]

Thanks to VX Kat. I was working on my soundproofing project. The weather was nice, 50 degrees and dry. I washed the car, wiped down the cladding with isopropyl alcohol. I thinned the SN with mineral spirits just a little, maybe 25%. I used a 4" foam brush and a throw away bristle brush for tight spots, cladding screws, etc. I have a proton yellow vx, so I used plain black dye. After one coat, the vx looked great, a couple of steaks and misses. The second coat really smoothed it all out. I used approx. 6 oz. of product, and the vx looks great! I could not be more pleased.
Thanks, Sue for being the Guinea pig.
Dave

Sounds like it will look great, the Proton with blacker cladding is awesome! :thumbup:
Don't recall anyone else cutting it with mineral spirits when applying it with a brush.....:_thinking:_thinking
Is there an advantage to thinning it out with brush use? Maybe less streaks or something??

[Hiredgoon]

I have an update as well. I've noticed that the cladding is much more prone to being stained by spilled gas than it was before applying the dye.

Just something to be careful of.

[Grif]

I have an update as well. I've noticed that the cladding is much more prone to being stained by spilled gas than it was before applying the dye.

Just something to be careful of.

Interesting.

I found just the opposite to be true. I've only dribbled gas on the cladding twice. Once before SRN dye and once after. Both times i was able to get it wiped off quickly and effects were minimized, but after the SRN dye, it seemed easier. I have no idea why. YMMV I guess.

[VXorado]

So I want to have black cladding to match my black hood, what do I get? Gatorback or Showroom New? Have we make a collective "forum decision" on which one is better?

[VX KAT]

So I want to have black cladding to match my black hood, what do I get? Gatorback or Showroom New? Have we make a collective "forum decision" on which one is better?

IMO, Gatorback is much smoother and uniform looking, BUT it will chip off when abraded. I found that SRN didn't really "chip" off when it got trail rash, but did show something like scratches from it, and you can just touch it up lightly with a rag. I think Grif, didn't you find that to be true? That's the ONLY reason I decided not to try GatorBack....so anybody that encounters trail rash....might want to seriously consider that. However, I THINK I recall Mike Nomy said he also could also touch up the GB with just spraying more on.....I think....I'd have to re-read this thread.


Oh, forgot to mention....hubby did drip just a few drops of gas on the cladding :mado2:.. ...and because I had previously advised him to NEVER rub it with any type of rag...he left it and it came right off at home, no residual at all......well, maybe a few days off my life, but no visual evidence that the cladding ever got gas on it. (but hey, how can I be upset with my hunny doing me a favor and getting the gas that day :heart:) ..:laugho:

[Grif]

Gatorback is a bedliner, it is very thick and replaces the surface of the cladding with a tough abrasive resistant coating. Your cladding surface texture will not be the same after Gatorback.

SRN is simply a thin layer of dye. It does not affect the texture of the original cladding. It just dyes it back to it normal darker color. It does not alter the plastic properties of the original cladding but since surface scratches often manifest themselves as lighter in color, SRN does a great job at hiding them.

Gatorback will entirely coat cladding with a full new surface, new texture with different properties of the original cladding. It does not look like original cladding, or act like it. And yes if your Gatorback coat does eventually get scratched or damaged, you can simply spray another coat to "fix" it. (at a much greater cost than SRN)

Hardcore trail riders might benefit from Gatorback or similar bedliner products, but I prefer SRN because it adds no thickness, retains the look, texture and feel of the original cladding, and does a good job of re-mediating superficial scratches from trail brush. Furthermore, when Gatorback does chip off (which it can) you are dealing with a much deeper surface to repair and may require multiple coats of gatorback to get it back into repair. With the SRN dye there is nothing to chip, to fix, you simply wipe on. Its simply a surface dye, not a re-coating with a different plastic like Gatorback is.

[VXorado]

Thanks Kat & Grif, that sums it up pretty well. I think I'll go with the SN mostly because i'm worried about the GB chipping off from tight trails & becoming a pain repairing it.

[DaveMcKenz]

Sounds like it will look great, the Proton with blacker cladding is awesome! :thumbup:
Don't recall anyone else cutting it with mineral spirits when applying it with a brush.....:_thinking:_thinking
Is there an advantage to thinning it out with brush use? Maybe less streaks or something??

Thinning 15-25% with mineral spirits is standard for varnish especially the first coat. It brushes and flows much easier. I found this to be the case with SN, and got very little streaking if any. It just felt right.
Dave

[PA-99]

Ran accross this today while looking for something completely unrelated. Thinking about trying it on a junk yard piece before my VX. Anyone have experience with this process?

http://www.raptorforumz.com/showthread.php?t=14043&page=2

Jeff

[VXorado]

Ran accross this today while looking for something completely unrelated. Thinking about trying it on a junk yard piece before my VX. Anyone have experience with this process?

http://www.raptorforumz.com/showthread.php?t=14043&page=2

Jeff

Are you referring to Line-X? If so, Line-X is a professional application that isn't DIY like other spray on bed liners. IMO Line-X the best stuff around but you pay a lot for it and it will change the cladding texture to "rough." The local Line-X shop in CO will spray all the cladding for about $500. I had my hood insert sprayed with Line-X after I installed a reverse hood scoop...luv it!

This is my favorite Line-X'd VX (actually my all time favorite- way to go Patrick Cooper)
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/1012.jpg

[VXorado]

On another note... I did buy "Showroom New" in black & i'm waiting for some warmer temps to apply it. The currently cold & snowy :_snowplow

[Mile High VX]

On another note... I did buy "Showroom New" in black & i'm waiting for some warmer temps to apply it. The currently cold & snowy :_snowplow

Let me know when you're going to do this...I'll come and "help"...

Been thinking about doing this as well.

[stangri]

Well, I don't know what the temperature in CO is like at the moment, but I've done my cladding a few days ago at the underground parking where it was like +5C/+10C and it worked quite well. Took more than an hour to cure, but worked nonetheless.

I opted for the grey SRN dye in hopes it would match my Kaiser VX. It's not the exact match of course, but I do like the look. I'll snap a few photos when I take it out on a snow. :)

Thanks again Kat! My cladding looked simply horrible with faded spots all over before.

[VX KAT]

Well, I don't know what the temperature in CO is like at the moment, but I've done my cladding a few days ago at the underground parking where it was like +5C/+10C and it worked quite well. Took more than an hour to cure, but worked nonetheless.

I opted for the grey SRN dye in hopes it would match my Kaiser VX. It's not the exact match of course, but I do like the look. I'll snap a few photos when I take it out on a snow. :)

Thanks again Kat! My cladding looked simply horrible with faded spots all over before.

:thumbup:
I mixed the gray and black until I got the color I wanted....maybe buy some and do another coat? My first 3 coats were 2:1 black:gray, then I added a little more black to darken it up a bit for my 4th coat...but don't do 4 coats! Stop at 3 max.

Are you going to use the sprayer like several have done? It makes a better finish.

[stangri]

No, I've cheaped out and used a small roller and a tray. Thankfully VX is small enough so I could finish the whole cladding before the dye started drying up in the tray. :)

I'll see how it looks in the sun before deciding what the next coat is going to be. For now I'm pretty happy with the dull grey I've got.

[PA-99]

Are you referring to Line-X? If so, Line-X is a professional application that isn't DIY like other spray on bed liners. IMO Line-X the best stuff around but you pay a lot for it and it will change the cladding texture to "rough." The local Line-X shop in CO will spray all the cladding for about $500. I had my hood insert sprayed with Line-X after I installed a reverse hood scoop...luv it!

This is my favorite Line-X'd VX (actually my all time favorite- way to go Patrick Cooper)
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/1012.jpg

That Line-x exterior is about as cool as you can get. Won't have to worry about parking at the end of the row with that. I did know that Line-X was not a DIY project, but did not know about the pricing. That is quite expensive just for the cladding. I'm going to try the dye in spring and hopefully see the same results as others!

[VXorado]

Let me know when you're going to do this...I'll come and "help"...

Been thinking about doing this as well.

Sounds good, I'll let ya know. I don't have a planned day yet but I'll keep an eye on the weather forecast for an approximate date.

[AdiosRich]

I have had a silver 2001 for 6 years. I bought it on Ebay with 53,000 miles. Now it has 164,000 miles, thousands on dirt roads in the Mojave Desert and surrounding regions. The cladding slowly turned grey and I resisted Armor-All type short term fixes because of the long term damage. But because of the great discussion here, I decided to try Showroom New.

The first coat was black, about 1/3 thinned with mineral spirits. I put it on with a small cotton rag. It was pretty streaky - I thought it would average out more, like spray paint does, but it dried streaky. It looked incredibly much better though, just needed more than 1 coat.

For the second coat, I used black unthinned, applied with a 2" foam brush. This worked very well and make for great coverage with the streaking pretty much gone. It will probably be gone by tomorrow afternoon, at the rate it was curing.

It looks, so far, like a good solution. It's certainly not an oil-based product, which is good. I've noticed that with just the first coat It was turning heads again. I would post before and after pics but I can't figure that out, so take my wordfor it. It looks great. Thanks for contributing so much info about this everyone.

[AdiosRich]

It has been 2 months since I put the Showroom New on and it looks the same as the day I put it on. It doesn't evaporate away like oil-based products. Now I'm going to help a friend put some on his Jeep.

[yellowgizmo99]

put mine on the last of November and still looks good as new.

[VX KAT]

great idea yellowgiz and Adios :thumbup:..... it's been a little over a year since I applied mine, so I'll plan to do update pics real soon.....

[disasterlady]

I didn't realize that you had changed the cladding cover... I like that SN much better! Nice job, I think I will get into that unless YOU HAVE HEARD OF SOMETHING BETTER NOW?
sure miss AZ! glad to see you still on the forum.

[VX KAT]

I didn't realize that you had changed the cladding cover... I like that SN much better! Nice job, I think I will get into that unless YOU HAVE HEARD OF SOMETHING BETTER NOW?
sure miss AZ! glad to see you still on the forum.

Hey good to see ya on here. I haven't taken "official" update pics, but here's a few. these are about 15 months after I applied it.
****Remember*** I mixed the black and gray 2:1 to get a dark charcoal color****

When I use flash it looks much shinier...you can see it.
Pic 1 ,3 AND 4 show some of the damage the shop did when making those tail light guards...that's how light gray my cladding was before! Basically they scratched the dyedlayer off my cladding during install....and never said a word to me...and they do NOT get my biz ever again!
I just touched these areas up and it blended perfectly.

I still haven't touched it with anything...no wax, no treatments, no back-to-black, nothing...got a few scratches from Moab this year, but I haven't even bothered to touch them up yet....maybe I should just wait until after Moab 2013...LoL :laugho:

Haven't heard of anything better. Several have used the GatorBack and it's gorgeous and smooth, but it can chip a little when hit by brush or something....so I didn't want to deal with that, so SN fit my needs better...but the GB sure does look gorgeous.



http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/TAIL%20LIGHT%20GUARDS/DSC_4764-1.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/MISC%20VX%20PICTURES/DSC_6741.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/TAIL%20LIGHT%20GUARDS/DSC_4987.jpg

DAMAGE FROM FAB SHOP....:mado2::mado:
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/DSC_4923.jpg





http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/DSC_7488.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/DSC_7740.jpg


http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/TAIL%20LIGHT%20GUARDS/DSC_5002.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/TAIL%20LIGHT%20GUARDS/DSC_5026.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/TAIL%20LIGHT%20GUARDS/DSCF4017.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/DSC_6646.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/MOAB%20%202012/DSCN1376.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/MOAB%20%202012/DSCN0798-1.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/MOAB%20%202012/DSCN0817-2.jpg


http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/MOAB%20%202012/DSCN0824.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/MOAB%20%202012/DSCN0896.jpg


http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/MOAB%20%202012/DSCN0746.jpg

[Leon R]

I have just applied SN on my Proton, which had terrible fading. I used just the black dye, applying with an old sock. First coat was VERY streaky! Second coat was darker and less streaky, but still streaky! For the third coat, I diluted the dye 2:1 with thinner and it has delivered even better results, but... I still can see the streaks!

Perhaps I should just let it try a bit more. I might just put on a forth coat (after thinning it a bit more). This product seems to be easier to apply when it is thinner.

BTW, I am still on my first 4oz bottle! It is almost gone, but still the same bottle! I am not sure how you guys can use up 2-3 bottles!

[VXorado]

BTW, I am still on my first 4oz bottle! It is almost gone, but still the same bottle! I am not sure how you guys can use up 2-3 bottles!

Might be why you have streaks. I thin every application with mineral spirits and could apply two full coats with one bottle. If you're streaks don't go away, I would continue adding coats until you at least use a full bottle.

Overall, I'm happy with SN. I treated the cladding twice over the year and used 2.5 bottles.

The only downside is that I can't seem to keep gas from dripping on the cladding under the fuel door and the cladding starts to fade in that area over time. Not a big deal but still annoying.

[VX KAT]

I have just applied SN on my Proton, which had terrible fading. I used just the black dye, applying with an old sock. First coat was VERY streaky! Second coat was darker and less streaky, but still streaky! For the third coat, I diluted the dye 2:1 with thinner and it has delivered even better results, but... I still can see the streaks!

Perhaps I should just let it try a bit more. I might just put on a forth coat (after thinning it a bit more). This product seems to be easier to apply when it is thinner.

BTW, I am still on my first 4oz bottle! It is almost gone, but still the same bottle! I am not sure how you guys can use up 2-3 bottles!


How long are you letting it dry? We found that it stayed streaky for even 12 hrs…I was panicked when I did mine with that first coat.
But after it dries for 12 hrs +, it gets LESS streaky. Did you read about the people that used the Preval sprayer to apply it? They had virtually no streaks. ANd yes, you dilute it to use the sprayer, and a few others commented that diluting it helped with streaking when hand applied. I didn't dilute mine, didn't know to do it. :goof:
BIGGEST TIP! DO NOT try to keep wiping it on when there's very little product on your rag….don't try to stretch it, keep rag pretty wet.
I did that and my front driver side bumper got all messed up (I described it all in my earlier posts).

I also applied 4 coats, and would not recommend that…at least stop at 3 coats.

Post some pics :thumbup:

[ssignature]

I applied Showroom New to our Vx "Elvira" last weekend and was not at all happy with the results. I read everyone's posts on the procedure and was very careful to clean the cladding and strip any residue off. I applied a total of three coats and used liberal amounts, but in the end the streaking was unacceptable. I'm told that it's likely that the cladding had previously been treated and therefore wouldn't absorb the Showroom New. There is a little evidence of that since in some sections it scratches with my fingernail to gray, but in other sections it doesn't.
Bottom line: It's getting Line-x'ed Monday.
I've also read that since you can't tell if an old application of Showroom New or another coating has been previously applied, only trial and error will let you know if it's going to be successful. It was worth the $30 to find out, but I do wish I had known before I started.
My local Line-X Dealer quoted us $600 for all the cladding, hood insert and hood scoop in black with UV protection. He said it would take all day. So Monday, Elvira goes in to be Line-X'ed.

[VX KAT]

I applied Showroom New to our Vx "Elvira" last weekend and was not at all happy with the results. I read everyone's posts on the procedure and was very careful to clean the cladding and strip any residue off. I applied a total of three coats and used liberal amounts, but in the end the streaking was unacceptable. I'm told that it's likely that the cladding had previously been treated and therefore wouldn't absorb the Showroom New. There is a little evidence of that since in some sections it scratches with my fingernail to gray, but in other sections it doesn't.
Bottom line: It's getting Line-x'ed Monday.



What applicator did you use?

How long did you let it dry between the 3 coats?

Take any pics?

[ssignature]

I bought some pads that have microfiber cloth on the outside and foam on the inside-- palm sized. I used enough Showroom New that it didn't run, but wasn't drying out. I waited about a hour between coats. Each coat was as streaky as the last. I shook it thoroughly in the bottle and mixed it up again in a glass jar. Applied it in 70 degree weather out of the sun. Basically, I followed all of the advice I've seen. I absolutely believe it had previously been treated. I really can't blame the product. Maybe I should have wiped it down with acetone prior to applying it, but the manufacturer's instructions said soap & water (used purple power), rinsed it and let it dry. I'm not upset, Line-X is a better solution anyway.

ALSO>>> I applied some to the step on the back bumper of my 2000 Rodeo and it looks flawless.

[VX KAT]

I bought some pads that have microfiber cloth on the outside and foam on the inside-- palm sized. I used enough Showroom New that it didn't run, but wasn't drying out. I waited about a hour between coats. Each coat was as streaky as the last. I shook it thoroughly in the bottle and mixed it up again in a glass jar. Applied it in 70 degree weather out of the sun. Basically, I followed all of the advice I've seen. I absolutely believe it had previously been treated. I really can't blame the product. Maybe I should have wiped it down with acetone prior to applying it, but the manufacturer's instructions said soap & water (used purple power), rinsed it and let it dry. I'm not upset, Line-X is a better solution anyway.

ALSO>>> I applied some to the step on the back bumper of my 2000 Rodeo and it looks flawless.

Yeah the Line-X will look great!
I think it may have been much better if you let each coat dry more like 6+ hrs or more (despite what bottle says). I found it looked significantly different from one hour drying time vs. 6 - 24 hr drying. Don't know why, but the streaks definitely went away.

[vt_maverick]

I've noticed the streaking on other VX's I've seen in person too, but it does seem to vary from truck to truck, probably depending on what was done in the past as you suggest. Good luck with the Line-X, I can't recall anyone here ever being unhappy with the result so I'm sure you'll be happy. Be sure to post pics!!!

[ssignature]

Just got the Vx Line-X'ed today. did the cladding and the hood insert (with a hood scoop). OMG. OMG. Best $600 you can ever spend. Ride on maypops but get your cladding Line-X'ed. Pics to follow when the sun comes up.

[Buffy]

I have a new project VX and was thinking of doing the Line-X on the cladding too. Spoke with a racer buddy who sprays it, told me it would not stick. So I am definitely interested in how it holds up for you.

PS: Look for a new build thread coming soon......:eekgray:

[ssignature]

I did a lot of research on it. The info about it not sticking is old. They've had products and techniques to shoot it on to plastic cladding for a number of years.

[bssage]

Has anyone else tried Marlin's application method? I am all for the easy method. I am have currently applied a couple of test spots. If there is a second to Marlins method that is the one I will use.

[1beres]

Armour All came out with a new item that makes your cladding look like new. Very easy. Wipe on , let sit a bit then wipe off. I put two coats on my V and it looks great.

[Marlin]

Armour All came out with a new item that makes your cladding look like new. Very easy. Wipe on , let sit a bit then wipe off. I put two coats on my V and it looks great.

Show room new does not need to be wiped off, touched up or redone. I did mine a few years ago, still looks black. Maybe Billy will jump on here and attest to it. His VX has faded grey cladding, mine still looks black and new compared to it. I even did the gas cap cover since I had a bit of overlap, its still on there...lol:)

[yellowgizmo99]

agree with Chris on the look, the one I have at his house is almost gray, the other one I did looks the same as Chris's dark black and never been touched since I did it almost 2 years ago.

[JoFotoz]

My cladding is being done right NOW!!


I have a new project VX and was thinking of doing the Line-X on the cladding too. Spoke with a racer buddy who sprays it, told me it would not stick. So I am definitely interested in how it holds up for you.

PS: Look for a new build thread coming soon......:eekgray:

Apparently the trick is to rough it up/chemcal clean/etch/prime...

...then fully envelope the cladding inside and out.

The line-X bonds to itself (obviously!)..and by enveloping the cladding
this helps avoid peel away at edges.

Cost at Line-X San Diego for this treatment .........$600.

Jo

[ssignature]

And those dealers that don't understand that, don't want to do it. Talking to my guy, if they do understand it, they'll generally give you the lifetime warranty. 600 seems to be the magic number.

[JoFotoz]

Yup....

My guy says some dealers are just P/Up bed guys...and dont want to venture into anything else....
........so quote CRAZY prices to deter people.

Luckily my guy is excited...he loves doing strange stuff.

His warranty....lifetime...and if I badly scratch the cladding...just take off the piece
and he'll re-shoot it before any chance of it starting to peel......:thumbup:

Seems like a great deal to me.

I'm getting "satin" finish, medium texture...with UV protection.

Jo

[ssignature]

That sounds like exactly what we got. My guy says the same thing, he's excited to try new things. And since he's owned 3 Troopers, he loved seeing (and test driving) the Vx. When we were in getting some stuff touched up, he was showing off the Vx, telling someone, "This is the VehiCross I told you about!" Love it.

[bssage]

First coat of SB using marlin's method done. Looks like crap. But you all said the first coat looks like crap. Right????

RIGHT??????

[ssignature]

Mine looked like crap after three coats. I have enough left that we're going to do it to my niece's VX but this time we're going to spray it.

[VX KAT]

First coat of SB using marlin's method done. Looks like crap. But you all said the first coat looks like crap. Right????

RIGHT??????


Mine looked like crap after three coats. I have enough left that we're going to do it to my niece's VX but this time we're going to spray it.

There's no shortcut to applying this stuff. Applicator and stroke technique are real important. Also, dry time between coats (NOT the instructions on bottle of 20 minutes).

Did you read this thread with all the detailed application tips? Yes it's long, but there's very detailed info. see post #1, #58 and #63

Don't think anyone else tried Marlin's method because his expectations may have been different than most of us, as his is a real trail rig, "pretty" isn't a high priority to him.

Did you look at my detailed pics?
Do you see any of the horrible streaking?

I had one problem area (front driver bumper) cuz I tried to stretch it as I was running out….and got streaks from the 2" roller brush. Fixed it up with more coats.

Comes out even better when diluted with mineral spirits and sprayed on. Several did it that way.

STREAKS:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF2977.JPG


NO STREAKS (or very few):
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3159.JPG

[JAMAS]

Also, dry time between coats (NOT the instructions on bottle of 20 minutes).


I can attest to this. You need to wait about 24 hours between coats, or at least over night.

[Marlin]

I take offense to that comment Sue! Mine has few to no streaks in it, I just used dawn dish soap to get all the armorall crap off it and then smeared it on with a brush from HF. I think those with streaks are having issues with repeated spray on products that are saturated into the plastic, preventing the etching of the dye.
I think the real issue is to remember that it is a dye, not a paint. If you are doing multiple coats, you are using it like a paint, therefore it will scratch off, peel off etc...if it is dyed into the plastic, I can scratch mine and fairly deep it stays black. That means the dye soaked into the plastic. I have to wonder that if by diluting, you are minimizing the penetration of the chemical.

[VX KAT]

I take offense to that comment Sue! Mine has few to no streaks in it, I just used dawn dish soap to get all the armorall crap off it and then smeared it on with a brush from HF. I think those with streaks are having issues with repeated spray on products that are saturated into the plastic, preventing the etching of the dye.

Sorry Chris :mbrasd: I was trying to be so tactful .:p
gotta give me points for PCness in that line!
You may be right about what's alredy in the cladding affecting the SN.
My cladding was uber clean of all those products before I did the SN, maybe that's why I had good results.

[bssage]

Ok boys and girls. Used marlins method. Just washed clean. Foam brush applicator.

The first coat I already mentioned looked terrible. I kinda expected that from what had been posted already.

If I had to do it again I would use the smallest bristle brush I could find (did this during the second coat) for around the lights and trim. I have a buddy that paints houses for a living. And by default he had taught me how to "feather" a brush. Pinpoint accuracy no need for masking anything. And it would be nearly impossible to see those brush strokes unless you were on your knee's looking in the light holes.

Once the trim is done. Its was like Kat said really about technique. Long steady brush stokes. "blending" into previous coating. Probably part of the reason my first coat looked so horrible. I ignored Kat's and Marlin's applicator recommendations and choose one foam brush that was to big and one that was to small. My Bad.

Problem area's for me where behind the cow catcher. And the rear gate door. In hindsight Kats covered sponge suggestion would have made doing these areas much simpler.

Results after second coat:

There are really two measurements here. The first being improvement from current appearance. The second being what I would consider perfect.

The improvement from start is very significant. There are some application lines still visiable. But few and far between and from 6' or beyond none visable at all. Really you would have to be at arms length in the right light to notice. It has been cloudy all day. I reserve the right to edit that at a later time. Overall much better than I expected for a second coat. And 100% improvement from the gray patch work that I started with.

Score from perfect. Its difficult to score this. I would need to get into my "wayback machine" to a point where I had not seen if before I coated. I would say I am 80% of what I would call Ideal.

Notes:
I used uncut black
Used slightly over one bottle. Just a couple of cap-fulls gone from the second.
I allowed a full day between coats.
2, 1/2 hrs first coat. 1, 1/2 hrs second coat

What I would do differently:
Try Kats sponge
Completely do trim first with small painters brush. To feather: press the brush flat sliding it left or right. (practice first)
Do it indoors (first coat was difficult with changing light and wind).
Maybe cut it with something to make coats less thick.
There are several stages to the drying. Just walk away and quit looking at it.

Questions for those who have gone before me. Will spot touch ups blend or be obvious? Has anybody tried an extremely fine sand paper to get out the few visible strokes I have left.

Oh and yes Kat I did read all of your posts several times. I'm am partly lazy and partly pressed for time. Its my daily drive and I don't have a garage to use. Don't you dare think I am not incredibly appreciative of the work you've done, The information you shared. You inspired me to do this. Thank you.

And Marlin thank you. Your tips were both accurate and helpful.

Right now I am kinda on the fence about a third coat. I dont want to bugger it up. It really looks pretty good the way it is.

[Marlin]

I thought of another thing I may have done different, I didn't really paint in any kind of pattern, meaning, I did not OCD brush stroke it on. I just kind of painted as I went, and as I said before smeared it on". I didn't like being crouched for long periods of time, so I minimized any chance for symmetrical brush streaks. Think of it like painting a cammo pattern, hard to see obvious brush streaks if they are dispersed throughout in a random NON OCD fashion:) I took a look today, zero streaks and a handful of pin stripes from trees and whatnot.
Don't worry Sue, I wasn't really offended, just pointing out that I think some are trying to treat this a paint on chemical, but it isn't paint and shouldn't be treated like paint. I am happy with mine, and I spent a minimal amount of time on the project, leaving time for extremely important work (enter marlinstein bumper, herculining the hood/fenders :smack:

[VX KAT]

Questions for those who have gone before me. Will spot touch ups blend or be obvious? Has anybody tried an extremely fine sand paper to get out the few visible strokes I have left.


Glad to hear it's going better!

My fab shop really scracthed up my cladding when they were making/installing my tail light guards. They'd scratched it deep enough beyond where the Showroom New dye had penetrated. I touched it up with a small foam paint brush and it blended perfectly. I applied a second coat trying to reapply approx the same "level" of dye as I originally had there. Pic isn't the best, but can see it blended just fine.

I've also touched up a few areas after I got some trail rash, and it blends right in that scenario also. (Doesn't completely hide the scratch, but greatly reduces how noticeable it is.

VXorado touched up some severe scratches, here's his thread:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=23647&highlight=scratched+showroom

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSC_4922.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSC_4942.JPG

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/DSCN1202.jpg (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/photokat4/media/DSCN1202.jpg.html)

[Hcloud13]

So I went ahead and used the showroom new!
I went with full on Black. I know about the big Dark Geay/Black debate when they were new,but I think it was black if you look at all the original promo images when the VX first came out....it was black.
Also I've talked to a couple owners who got the VX new and they say it was black also.
Anyway here is my views on the stuff.
First off it was a bitch to not get any streaks. Don't waste your time trying to use the brush lol.

After I was done it looks GREAT!!! better than anything I've ever used.

Now here is one MAJOR issue I have with it.... It scratches off very easy.

I prepped the panels to a T. trust me as I do body work.
It's not so much of a dye as it is a paint.
These pics are 3 weeks old by the way.
It holds up to car washing just fine,just don't touch at as it will flake off with a fingernail.

P.S I also did the hood insert.

http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg130/Hcloud13/VX%20stuff%20for%20sale/008_zpse170d6fb.jpg (http://s247.photobucket.com/user/Hcloud13/media/VX%20stuff%20for%20sale/008_zpse170d6fb.jpg.html)
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg130/Hcloud13/VX%20stuff%20for%20sale/001_zps124195cc.jpg (http://s247.photobucket.com/user/Hcloud13/media/VX%20stuff%20for%20sale/001_zps124195cc.jpg.html)
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg130/Hcloud13/VX%20stuff%20for%20sale/007_zps7c3422ef.jpg (http://s247.photobucket.com/user/Hcloud13/media/VX%20stuff%20for%20sale/007_zps7c3422ef.jpg.html)
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg130/Hcloud13/VX%20stuff%20for%20sale/006_zps1dbf8e40.jpg (http://s247.photobucket.com/user/Hcloud13/media/VX%20stuff%20for%20sale/006_zps1dbf8e40.jpg.html)
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg130/Hcloud13/VX%20stuff%20for%20sale/004_zps86d8558f.jpg (http://s247.photobucket.com/user/Hcloud13/media/VX%20stuff%20for%20sale/004_zps86d8558f.jpg.html)
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg130/Hcloud13/VX%20stuff%20for%20sale/005_zps28eca0fd.jpg (http://s247.photobucket.com/user/Hcloud13/media/VX%20stuff%20for%20sale/005_zps28eca0fd.jpg.html)
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg130/Hcloud13/VX%20stuff%20for%20sale/003_zps6eb7b382.jpg (http://s247.photobucket.com/user/Hcloud13/media/VX%20stuff%20for%20sale/003_zps6eb7b382.jpg.html)
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg130/Hcloud13/VX%20stuff%20for%20sale/002_zps3563018c.jpg (http://s247.photobucket.com/user/Hcloud13/media/VX%20stuff%20for%20sale/002_zps3563018c.jpg.html)
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg130/Hcloud13/VX%20stuff%20for%20sale/009_zps9320444a.jpg (http://s247.photobucket.com/user/Hcloud13/media/VX%20stuff%20for%20sale/009_zps9320444a.jpg.html)
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg130/Hcloud13/VX%20stuff%20for%20sale/010_zpsd772b9c0.jpg (http://s247.photobucket.com/user/Hcloud13/media/VX%20stuff%20for%20sale/010_zpsd772b9c0.jpg.html)

[VXD959]

Looks good. Black and shiny. I guess better that the Wipe New you tried before?

I guess I'm sticking with the Krylon Fusion paint solution based on the below posts...

http://www.chevyavalanchefanclub.com/cafcna/index.php?topic=108150.0

[Marlin]

I wonder if something changed, be it cladding material or the product. Mine is defintely not like paint. Covered in mud, pressure washed, car washes, no peeling or scratches except a few spots that were deep from tree limbs.

[VX KAT]

I wonder if something changed, be it cladding material or the product. Mine is defintely not like paint. Covered in mud, pressure washed, car washes, no peeling or scratches except a few spots that were deep from tree limbs.

I was thinking the same thing Marlin. Mine only comes off with tree branches and stupid fab techs making tail light guards :rollo:
Remember too, out of frustration I ended up sanding my front driver corner and the filings were dark gray and the cladding were sanded was still the new dark gray, telling me the dye had penetrated in a fair distance.

[Hcloud13]

I don't know what happened...
I use the aerosol can and glass jar it came with.

I deff prepped it with a wax & paint degreaser made just for plastic and by the time I was done the cladding was a pasty dry grey.

[Marlin]

Aerosol? Glass jar? Mine camr in a plastic bottle with a gold label. Me thinks you have a different product.

[VX KAT]

Aerosol? Glass jar? Mine camr in a plastic bottle with a gold label. Me thinks you have a different product.

ditto again-
maybe he means the Preval sprayer that was optional? Maybe it's just on too thin? How many coats did you do?

[Hcloud13]

ditto again-
maybe he means the Preval sprayer that was optional? Maybe it's just on too thin? How many coats did you do?

Here is what I used/what came with the kit.
I put 3 coats.
I don't think coats would matter to much as it a dye thou?
http://www.showroomnewproducts.com/shop-car-dye-kits
http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg130/Hcloud13/Black-Dye-Kit-Complete-11_zps81d9eff8.jpg (http://s247.photobucket.com/user/Hcloud13/media/Black-Dye-Kit-Complete-11_zps81d9eff8.jpg.html)

[silvercross]

try line-x. its like rhino lining

[CatFish]

I tried to get some showroom new and the site is gone and I cannot find it anywhere on the internet, not on eBay, Amazon or any other sites. Has anyone bought any in the last few months? I did find this other product that seems to be similar, has anyone used this stuff? http://www.foreverblack.com/

[Jayd-S]

I tried to get some showroom new and the site is gone and I cannot find it anywhere on the internet, not on eBay, Amazon or any other sites. Has anyone bought any in the last few months? I did find this other product that seems to be similar, has anyone used this stuff? http://www.foreverblack.com/

Hi Catfish,

I bought Showroom New last July 2014 directly from Michele Calhoun. The results were awesome! Michele Calhoun is the company owner and the lady that filed for the original trademark. It appears that she may not be retailing the product anymore but she is providing the service through several locations along the I5 corridor in Washington and Oregon. Here is her LinkedIn page. https://www.linkedin.com/pub/michele-calhoun/17/aa1/706

Her Auburn business address is
CALHOUN, MICHELE M.
TOUCH OF BLACK, LLC.
PO Box 1922
Auburn WA 98071-1922

Her Trademark application is here so you can make the connection between the two. http://www.trademarkia.com/showroom-new-78959135.html

I am surprised also, not to be able to find the product for sale. I was planning on fixing another VX. I can highly recomend the product for cladding only not for any other plastics on the vehicle. VX Kat's original instructions are bang on.

If you can contact Michele Calhoun and order more, please let me know as I would like to order some more.

Jayd-S

[Jayd-S]

I tried to get some showroom new and the site is gone and I cannot find it anywhere on the internet, not on eBay, Amazon or any other sites. Has anyone bought any in the last few months? I did find this other product that seems to be similar, has anyone used this stuff? http://www.foreverblack.com/

Hi Catfish,
Just spoke with Michele Calhoun. She confirmed that they were no longer supplying Showroom New products for retail. She now only supplies to authorized dealerships along the I5 corridor in Washington and Oregon.

She said it was OK to post her phone number here for anyone to contact her for the nearest dealership. Phone: (206) 229-9923.

Good luck.

[Leon R]

This is really strange... Why not just list her dealers?

[89Vette]

:MODS:

Please delete this post. I had problem with the reply button not operating. I went to advanced mode and edited this post. The next one is what came out...plus this one too! (FWIW: The reply button at the end of this thread is what malfunctioned.)

Also, why can't users delete their own posts?

[89Vette]

Another option is Mar-Hyde (http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/MRH0/4911/N0474.oap?ck=Search_N0474_-1_-1&pt=N0474&ppt=C0171) bumper coating (dye) as sold by O'Reillys Auto Parts. I compared the ingredients to SEM vinyl/plastic dyes. They are basically identical. (And, btw, I also recommend the SEM products too. Duplicolor flat black or charcoal would be 3rd on my list.)

Just like these roll-on products, you [only] have to thoroughly wash before application. In short, you need to remove road debris or wax to insure adhesion. I masked mine with blue painters tape and newspaper -- similar to the OP. I was able to do mine in one afternoon. (This is the 3rd time I've died my cladding. It's needs reapplication after 2-3 years....if you want it to look new. Each time, I only use 1 $10 can of spray dye. I think I used a bit more on my first application several years ago. I'm sure more coats would help with longevity.

Here are pics of mine. I also recently added the skid plates after reconditioning a set AND reconditioning my hood insert. They were painted by Maaco in a metallic dark charcoal gloss.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f152/greggpenn/MyVehicross/IMG_0049_zpstotfkrtx.jpg (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/greggpenn/media/MyVehicross/IMG_0049_zpstotfkrtx.jpg.html)

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f152/greggpenn/MyVehicross/IMG_0048_zpsmi8sovrl.jpg (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/greggpenn/media/MyVehicross/IMG_0048_zpsmi8sovrl.jpg.html)

[Mile High VX]

Does the Mar-Hyde product change the texture of the cladding?

I've steered away from Gatorback for that reason.

[89Vette]

Does the Mar-Hyde product change the texture of the cladding?

I've steered away from Gatorback for that reason.

No. It's a thinner coating than paint. The coating is thin enough you can't tell it's there. And, you can clearly still see the "sanded" texture of the cladding after application. Even after 3-4 coats over 5 years, you can't tell my cladding has a coating. I can still see the cladding's texture. It's thinner than paint because 3-4 coats of spray paint wouldn't retain the same level of detail.