Installing fiberglass type skid plates -need ADVICE/HELP!

[VX KAT]

Got a front and rear skid plate made by "Ron". Rowhard used the rear to make a new mold so he can now start making the rear plate. He painted them for me and now it's install time....
I decided to cut my front fog lights off, and removed the bull bar entirely.

FRONT SKID:
OK, front skid attaches at a different place than I thought I was told :_thinking....it does NOT attach to the same point as the bull bar, it attaches using two of the bottom metal cladding screws. The top portion attaches via the two screws in the front plate delete.

But, due to the vertical protrusions molded into the plate along the bottom area, there's a pretty good gap (~1/2") between the skid and the lower holes, so I believe I need to get longer screws.

Should I put a rubber washer on each side of the skid so the bolt doesn't scratch it all to heck, and possibly grind through it over time??

REAR SKID:
When my hitch was installed, we weren't able to get the rear cladding tucked back snug along the bottom, and therefore, couldn't get three cladding screws down there re-inserted.

It appears, that's exactly where this skid attaches to.

Before we screw this up....Suggestions/ Direction / HELP!?

Here's some pics. Neither are actually bolted on yet.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3638.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3636.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3634.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3642.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3641.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3639.JPG

[Ldub]

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=16321&highlight=rowhard+skid

[nfpgasmask]

OMG, Kat! I can't believe you didn't do a search! FOR SHAME!!!!

:laughing:

Bart

[VX KAT]

Thank you oh MASTER craftsman Dub! Thank you for 'splainin' all the stuff and tellin' me what I needed to go buy. I CAN do it now! :thumbup:

John- The paint job is spectacular! Ashley you're goin' love 'em!

I really think the darker silver color is great, and the contrast against my new darker cladding works perfectly...IMO, and that's what counts, right?

And I did try to search Bart...just didn't use the right combo of words :_brickwal

[ron]

hi VX KAT...

If the fiberglass plates bolt in the same manner as my originals then you'll need two M6-1.0x35 socket stainless steel bolts for the license plate holes and two M6-1.0x40 socket stainless steel bolts for the bottom holes. If you PM me your address I can send you all four with washers at no cost. Just let me know and I'll send them out. ron

[VX KAT]

hi VX KAT...

If the fiberglass plates bolt in the same manner as my originals then you'll need two M6-1.0x35 socket stainless steel bolts for the license plate holes and two M6-1.0x40 socket stainless steel bolts for the bottom holes. If you PM me your address I can send you all four with washers at no cost. Just let me know and I'll send them out. ron
Actually Ron, these plates were made by you. I bought them from "Bantan" in Florida. I just uploaded pics, they look fantastic!
I'll PM ya my addy. Thanks.

[ron]

He didn't include the hardware or install instructions w/ the plates? Shame on him, lol.

By your pics, looks like you may need to open up the hitch slot wider with a file or something equivalent. File down both sides equally and keep checking fitment after a few filings. I'll eventually slide into place when the material is clear with the hitch.

I'll send you screws and washers for the rear plate as well. Looks like you'll need about four of them since you have the hitch version.

If you have problems aligning the bottom screws with the holes in either plates, drill out a size larger hole to allow more lining up with the screws. But not too large that the washers won't work anymore.

I'll get the hardware together and send them out tomorrow pending your address. Take care and you can e-mail me direct at rudesvx@sbcglobal.net if you have any further questions. Thanks, ron.

[ZEUS]

BUWAHAHA! This had to happen sooner or later... Whose next?
OMG, Kat! I can't believe you didn't do a search! FOR SHAME!!!!

:laughing:

Bart

[VX KAT]

BUWAHAHA! This had to happen sooner or later... Whose next?

but but but...I did a search....:goof: :drama:

[nfpgasmask]

And I did try to search Bart...just didn't use the right combo of words :_brickwal

I know, I was just razzin ya!! That's all I'm good for these days.

:) Bart

[Triathlete]

I know, I was just razzin ya!! That's all I'm good for these days.

:) Bart

Sounds like you need a trip to Moab to get your VX mojo back! :yesy::bwgy:

[Anita]

waaaaaaaaaaa!

Ron, I wish you made those plates again!! They are beautiful :yesb:

[nfpgasmask]

Sounds like you need a trip to Moab to get your VX mojo back! :yesy::bwgy:

You have NO IDEA, Billy. I want to take a permanant trip to Moab right about now. My job is running me a little ragged. 2012, son! 2012.

Bart

[Triathlete]

2012, son! 2012.

Bart

IF the world still exists!:bwgy:

[nfpgasmask]

IF the world still exists!:bwgy:

Well, if you wanna get technical, May 2012 comes before December 2012, so we are in the clear!! :_beer:

Bart

[ron]

hey VX KAT...

Hardware was dropped off at the USPO this afternoon. You should be receiving the package within a few days. Let me know if you didn't get it after a week. Thanks.

ron

[ron]

waaaaaaaaaaa!

Ron, I wish you made those plates again!! They are beautiful :yesb:

To tell you the truth, I had been thinking about resurrecting the skidplates again. But not too sure about the demand for them right now with the economy and all.

Unfortunately my vacuum-forming vendor shop went belly up and destroyed the molds for the plates. I would have to have another set machined out if I was to seriously consider bringing these back up in the market again. Not certain if I'll take the plunge as I don't have a VX anymore..yet. ron

[rsteinmetz70112]

vacuum-forming vendor shop went belly up and destroyed the molds for the plates.

That's odd, if you paid to have the forms made, didn't you own them?

[RabidPony]

And even if not, why on Earth would they just destroy them?

[VX KAT]

OK, my plan of attack for the rear skid is to measure the distance between the skid hole and the cladding screw hole.

~If it's a relatively small distance, drill the hole a little larger in the skid to try to match it up, but not so large that the washer fits through. I found some really large flat rubber washers 2.5" across that might help in that scenario.

~If distance is pretty big, need to make a metal "bridge". A skinny flat piece of metal with a hole in each end. Connect cladding to hole closest to truck, connect skid to the other hole.

~All using grade 8 hardware, and aluminum or something stainless steel for the bridge.

~Dub and Ron did I get that basically correct as you told me?

~Any precautions if I do have to drill the skid plate hole larger? It's ABS....will it shatter or crack etc??

~Also realize there's no way in he!! I can get a locking pin on the hitch w/o some major surgery on the skid. So think I've seen some regular pins that will fit if I want to run with my superbumper on. Any other ideas?

~Would it be OK to just put a wire nut on each loose end of wires for the fogs I cut off, and tuck them up behind the cladding?

[ron]

OK, my plan of attack for the rear skid is to measure the distance between the skid hole and the cladding screw hole.

~If it's a relatively small distance, drill the hole a little larger in the skid to try to match it up, but not so large that the washer fits through. I found some really large flat rubber washers 2.5" across that might help in that scenario.

~If distance is pretty big, need to make a metal "bridge". A skinny flat piece of metal with a hole in each end. Connect cladding to hole closest to truck, connect skid to the other hole.

~All using grade 8 hardware, and aluminum or something stainless steel for the bridge.

~Dub and Ron did I get that basically correct as you told me?

~Any precautions if I do have to drill the skid plate hole larger? It's ABS....will it shatter or crack etc??

~Also realize there's no way in he!! I can get a locking pin on the hitch w/o some major surgery on the skid. So think I've seen some regular pins that will fit if I want to run with my superbumper on. Any other ideas?

~Would it be OK to just put a wire nut on each loose end of wires for the fogs I cut off, and tuck them up behind the cladding?

Not certain why you would need a bridge to connect the screws tot he cladding hole. You may just need to take off more material from the top edge of the slot to allow the plate to slide further down the hitch and line up the holes. The slot was based on Tone's hitch which I'm not sure if that's what you have or not.

ABS will not crack unless you run over it or something. You can drill it, sand it, file it, and machine it if you have to.

I was able to put a non-locking pin in it. I suggest placing the plate in place, installing the pin, then installing the screws from plate to cladding. HTH. ron

[ron]

vacuum-forming vendor shop went belly up and destroyed the molds for the plates.

That's odd, if you paid to have the forms made, didn't you own them?

Yes, I owned the molds. However, I haven't been in touch with them for over 6 months and when I went there, they were already closed down and the owner skipped town. I could not find his contact info anywhere. I'm only assuming he destroyed them unless he's using it as a coffee table stand or something.

[VX KAT]

REAR SKID:
When my hitch was installed, we weren't able to get the rear cladding tucked back snug along the bottom, and therefore, couldn't get three cladding screws down there re-inserted.
It appears, that's exactly where this skid attaches to.


[QUOTE=ron;224735]Not certain why you would need a bridge to connect the screws tot he cladding hole. You may just need to take off more material from the top edge of the slot to allow the plate to slide further down the hitch and line up the holes. The slot was based on Tone's hitch which I'm not sure if that's what you have or not.



The background is...My hitch is a "replica" of the original Tone hitch, made by a welder guy that a member here uses. It's pretty close to the Tone specs, but may be a tad off here and there. I know the lip/edge that goes around the opening is a bit larger. See blue text highlighted above.
I just took a look, and the holes and cladding aren't too far off, so making the cladding hole a little larger may be all that's needed to line up all three items (skid, cladding and hole).

[ron]

[QUOTE=VX KAT;224529]
REAR SKID:
When my hitch was installed, we weren't able to get the rear cladding tucked back snug along the bottom, and therefore, couldn't get three cladding screws down there re-inserted.
It appears, that's exactly where this skid attaches to.





The background is...My hitch is a "replica" of the original Tone hitch, made by a welder guy that a member here uses. It's pretty close to the Tone specs, but may be a tad off here and there. I know the lip/edge that goes around the opening is a bit larger. See blue text highlighted above.
I just took a look, and the holes and cladding aren't too far off, so making the cladding hole a little larger may be all that's needed to line up all three items (skid, cladding and hole).

You can always files an elongated hole or slot in the direction of the cladding hole with a small rat tail file. It's quick and easy with the abs plate. But making a larger hole with a bigger drill bit will work also as long as you can still utilize the washers I've sent you. Good luck. ron

[Luna X]

Those bottom screws go into the not-so-strong rear reinforcement.

If you have one, or can get a hold of a slide hammer with a hook, you could pull the bottom out that 1/2" or whatever is needed to get all holes to line up.

That way there would be no enlarging or drilling of any holes in the bumper cover or your newly painted skid plate.

[Ldub]

~All using grade 8 hardware,

Good gawd Suzee...:uhohgray:

You're not mounting a machine gun...:smilewink

Plain ol' stainless hardware will be plenty sturdy...:yesgray:

[Ldub]

Those bottom screws go into the not-so-strong rear reinforcement.

If you have one, or can get a hold of a slide hammer with a hook, you could pull the bottom out that 1/2" or whatever is needed to get all holes to line up.

That way there would be no enlarging or drilling of any holes in the bumper cover or your newly painted skid plate.

That's a great idea, wish I'd thought of it at the time.

Though I don't have a slide hammer, I think that a bit of muscle applied in the right direction to a wrecking bar, would tweak that thang into submission...:smack:

[VX KAT]

~All using grade 8 hardware, and aluminum or something stainless steel for the bridge.

[QUOTE=Ldub;224757]Good gawd Suzee...:uhohgray:

You're not mounting a machine gun...:smilewink

Plain ol' stainless hardware will be plenty sturdy...:yesgray:


I thought grade 8 was s.s and vice versa...:_thinking....and hey, yuz never know, I might need to mount something from my arsenal!! Remember my alias...Beretta Kat! :laugho:

Never heard of a slide hammer before. Like that idea instead of drilling or filing down the skid or cladding...:thumbup:

Luna you say "not so strong" rear reinforcement.....Since the skid will be basically hanging on the hitch, wouldn't that mean those lower mounting points will be supporting less...and therefore strong "enough"??

May need to put at least 2 more screws on the rear skid and into the cladding, at about the 9 and 3 o'clock position on the plate. Doesn't look like it will be very flush with the cladding otherwise. But I'd need to remove the rear cladding for that. Oh joy...:goof: :_brickwal
*** I have an idea....I bring my rear skid and we have a stoop party about
Thursday eve and I bribe some fellow VXers to install it.....:smack: :flower::flower:

[Triathlete]

I'll bring the sawzall and torch! Woohoo...this will be fun!:bwgy:

[MSHardeman]

WOOHOO!!! Wrenching at the stoop.:dan_ban:

I have a bunch of wrenching pictures...maybe I should put a little album together. The Red Rocks parking lot has probably seen more wrenching than most shops.

[vt_maverick]

hi VX KAT...

If the fiberglass plates bolt in the same manner as my originals then you'll need two M6-1.0x35 socket stainless steel bolts for the license plate holes and two M6-1.0x40 socket stainless steel bolts for the bottom holes. If you PM me your address I can send you all four with washers at no cost. Just let me know and I'll send them out. ron

Hey Ron, in VA we have front plates and I found the M6-1.0x35 were too short. I tried the 40's instead and they were too short too. Thinking of going to Fastenal tomorrow to see if they have 45 or 50. Ever run into that problem with any of your other customers?

[Mile High VX]

Hey Ron, in VA we have front plates and I found the M6-1.0x35 were too short. I tried the 40's instead and they were too short too. Thinking of going to Fastenal tomorrow to see if they have 45 or 50. Ever run into that problem with any of your other customers?

Front plates in CO as well. I had to use the 50 with the Rowhard skids...found them at Home Depot here in their specialty fastener cabinet. I also have a clear plate cover that I really like that I had to add some length for.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN0378.JPG

[vt_maverick]

Thanks for the tip Earl. I have a plate cover too and that's definitely making the problem even worse. I'll give HD a try - were you able to buy them individually, or did you have to buy a 50-pack a la Fastenal?

[vt_maverick]

The background is...My hitch is a "replica" of the original Tone hitch, made by a welder guy that a member here uses. It's pretty close to the Tone specs, but may be a tad off here and there. I know the lip/edge that goes around the opening is a bit larger. See blue text highlighted above.
I just took a look, and the holes and cladding aren't too far off, so making the cladding hole a little larger may be all that's needed to line up all three items (skid, cladding and hole).



You can always files an elongated hole or slot in the direction of the cladding hole with a small rat tail file. It's quick and easy with the abs plate. But making a larger hole with a bigger drill bit will work also as long as you can still utilize the washers I've sent you. Good luck. ron

I don't believe the problem is isolated to just Tone-replica hitches - my rear piece doesn't fit either. I'll give the file trick a go tomorrow, but I wonder how well fiberglass stands up to a metal file?

[VX KAT]

I'm putting rubber (neoprene) washers on both sides...I'll need to add room for that too. Are you doing that too?

I also got some black surgical tubing to make the tiny little bands for the screws.

I don't have to have a front plate for AZ, but I haven't tried the 40s yet to see if they'll work with my washers.

Mav if ya end up having to buy a boatload, I'll buy some from you. I'll probably need them.

[Mile High VX]

Thanks for the tip Earl. I have a plate cover too and that's definitely making the problem even worse. I'll give HD a try - were you able to buy them individually, or did you have to buy a 50-pack a la Fastenal?

IIRC it was a pack of about 5...I bought the 45s and the 50s and ended up using the 45s on the bottom and the 50s on the top. The bottom was tough to get lined up and I used the 50s at first to get it started, tightened it all the way, put a set of vise grips on it, took it off and quickly changed to the 45s. Just too much extra on the end to leave the 50s on the bottom but couldn't get the 45s started...

[vt_maverick]

I'm putting rubber (neoprene) washers on both sides...I'll need to add room for that too. Are you doing that too?

I also got some black surgical tubing to make the tiny little bands for the screws.

I don't have to have a front plate for AZ, but I haven't tried the 40s yet to see if they'll work with my washers.

Mav if ya end up having to buy a boatload, I'll buy some from you. I'll probably need them.

Remind me why you're doing the rubber washers and surgical tubing again? The paint seems REALLY soft so I'm actually a lot more worried about road debris than I am hardware rubbing...

[vt_maverick]

IIRC it was a pack of about 5...I bought the 45s and the 50s and ended up using the 45s on the bottom and the 50s on the top. The bottom was tough to get lined up and I used the 50s at first to get it started, tightened it all the way, put a set of vise grips on it, took it off and quickly changed to the 45s. Just too much extra on the end to leave the 50s on the bottom but couldn't get the 45s started...

I got the 40s to work on the bottom but it sure wasn't easy. Good thing Mahalia was "helping" or my neighbors might have heard a LOT of profanity. ;)

50 sounds like the way to go. Btw Sue, 35 is perfect if you don't run a front plate.

[Mile High VX]

I got the 40s to work on the bottom but it sure wasn't easy. Good thing Mahalia was "helping" or my neighbors might have heard a LOT of profanity. ;)



Be a shame for Mahalia to hear all that profanity coming from the neighbors...:smilewink:bgwo::bgwb::bwgy:

[VX KAT]

Remind me why you're doing the rubber washers and surgical tubing again? The paint seems REALLY soft so I'm actually a lot more worried about road debris than I am hardware rubbing...

surgical tubing just so the screw threads don't touch the plastic, maybe preventing splintering, maybe not necessary...was about $2 for 3 ft....

rubber washers because it seemed like a good idea not to have the metal screw head rubbing on the purdy paint, and possibly grinding through it over time....on my dirt road. I'll cut down the washers so a ton of washer isn't exposed around the screw head. Maybe both are overkill, but super cheap.

Hope the paint cures much harder over time. Didn't ask about that. When I got my Lexus back, the shop told me not to wax it for 2-3 months as the many layers of paint would take a while to cure. So maybe our will cure too.

[ron]

Hey Ron, in VA we have front plates and I found the M6-1.0x35 were too short. I tried the 40's instead and they were too short too. Thinking of going to Fastenal tomorrow to see if they have 45 or 50. Ever run into that problem with any of your other customers?

Do you have my original plates or the fiberglass ones that Roward made. All the plates that I've created were vacuum formed ABS and all utilized the screws: 35's for the top license plate holes and 40's for the bottoms. If you have the fiberglass plates, since my plates were the original molds for these copies, I have a gut feeling that the fiberglass material may have shrunk a bit which will cause the plates to 'pull away' from the cladding and the screws would be too short. Resorting to longer screws, like 45's or 50's, will probably make it work.

[ron]

I don't believe the problem is isolated to just Tone-replica hitches - my rear piece doesn't fit either. I'll give the file trick a go tomorrow, but I wonder how well fiberglass stands up to a metal file?

Metal file should be fine. Start with a finer tooth and go up from there. If you start with a big tooth file, it may catch and crack the glass. HTH, ron

[vt_maverick]

Do you have my original plates or the fiberglass ones that Roward made. All the plates that I've created were vacuum formed ABS and all utilized the screws: 35's for the top license plate holes and 40's for the bottoms. If you have the fiberglass plates, since my plates were the original molds for these copies, I have a gut feeling that the fiberglass material may have shrunk a bit which will cause the plates to 'pull away' from the cladding and the screws would be too short. Resorting to longer screws, like 45's or 50's, will probably make it work.

Sorry Ron, should have been more specific. I do have your plate, but the problem is when you try to mount a front license plate. If you don't need a front plate, 35 works fine.

[VX KAT]

FRONT SKID INSTALL-
Top 2 holes, where license plate delete goes.
~Weird, one side allowed bolt to go through the inner most hole on the clip thing with the threads, and other side wouldn't whatsoever!
So I had to slide the clip over a little, to line up with skid hole, so the bolt could use the other hole on that clip. Allowed bolt to screw right through it.

~OK, got both of those are nice and snug, with the rubber washer and metal washer on front.
~Had to use 45mm screws.
~Also cut some neoprene washers in half and glued them to the back of skid, covering the raw ends of the "fake" bolts" and the top edge of the plate. Otherwise those would be grinding a nice notch in the cladding.
With the washers glued on, none of the edges of the plate are rubbing too much on the cladding.

Lower plate holes are way way off, at least 1/2", maybe even 3/4". If I sanded down the plate hole with a file, it would end up pretty darn thin between the hole and the edge of the plate. So maybe Luna's "slide hammer" idea would work here.

QUESTION: It seems really secure with just the 2 top bolts, and the lower edge is within 1/2" of the cladding, so nothing's "drooping"....... think it would be sufficient with just those 2? Thoughts, opinions?

[vt_maverick]

Sue - I had difficulty getting the screws through the plate, delete, and bumper cover, but after some wiggling everything seemed to work okay. Of course there's no way to see exactly which holes I screwed them into, but I feel confident it was the same on each side. Regardless, as long as it looks good from the outside and fits snug, who really cares right?

Personally I would want all four bolts. What happens when you back up and just the skid catches on an object? Seems like it would at least bend the plate and maybe even shear off the top bolts and dent the bumper. I got all 4 bolts in place but it certainly wasn't easy - clearly these things were meant to fit TIGHT. I guess this is something you chalk up to hand-built variances?

I wish I was there to look at it with you, I honestly didn't think mine would fit either until I monkeyed with it for an hour or two. Not saying I could make it work, but I would hate to send you off to cut something if it turned out not to be necessary later.

[VX KAT]

how'd you do it Mav? I pressed really hard on the bottom area, and maybe got the skid to move about 1/4" closer. Did you make the top 2 tight, and then work on the bottom, or did you loosen the top 2 a bit while trying to get the bottom to snug up closer to the holes? Did you end up sanding/filing the skid holes at all?

I can see how the slide hammer or a making a bridge would definitely help in this scenario.

I don't know how much I can push the ABS plastic w/o damaging it.

I even got a crazy idea of cutting off about 3-4" off straight across the bottom....no screws to install, and less likely to catch on anything or get scraped when off road. :goof:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3843.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3853.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3874.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3885.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3840.JPG

[ron]

how'd you do it Mav? I pressed really hard on the bottom area, and maybe got the skid to move about 1/4" closer. Did you make the top 2 tight, and then work on the bottom, or did you loosen the top 2 a bit while trying to get the bottom to snug up closer to the holes? Did you end up sanding/filing the skid holes at all?

I can see how the slide hammer or a making a bridge would definitely help in this scenario.

I don't know how much I can push the ABS plastic w/o damaging it.

I even got a crazy idea of cutting off about 3-4" off straight across the bottom....no screws to install, and less likely to catch on anything or get scraped when off road. :goof:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3843.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3853.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3874.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3885.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3840.JPG

Your plate looks great installed. Not sure why you and vt_maverick is having a hard time installing the plates. However, come to think of it, I do believe that the bottoms are attached to some sort of bracket? that can get out of position if the bumper was bumped or twisted previously. With a little effort, these brackets can be pushed back into place for proper re-alignment for the bottom screws. Once you get that resolved, then you can start all four screws at the same time just to get all screws in a few threads. Then you can tighten everything down.

Just still puzzles me why both of you are using longer than 40mm for installing the front plates. I actually used to send out 35mm for the license plate and 40mm for the bottoms when I sold them back then.

[ron]

how'd you do it Mav? I pressed really hard on the bottom area, and maybe got the skid to move about 1/4" closer. Did you make the top 2 tight, and then work on the bottom, or did you loosen the top 2 a bit while trying to get the bottom to snug up closer to the holes? Did you end up sanding/filing the skid holes at all?

I can see how the slide hammer or a making a bridge would definitely help in this scenario.

I don't know how much I can push the ABS plastic w/o damaging it.

I even got a crazy idea of cutting off about 3-4" off straight across the bottom....no screws to install, and less likely to catch on anything or get scraped when off road. :goof:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3843.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3853.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3874.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3885.JPG

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF3840.JPG

Your plate looks great installed. Not sure why you and vt_maverick is having a hard time installing the plates. However, come to think of it, I do believe that the bottoms are attached to some sort of bracket? that can get out of position if the bumper was bumped or twisted previously. With a little effort, these brackets can be pushed back into place for proper re-alignment for the bottom screws. Once you get that resolved, then you can start all four screws at the same time just to get all screws in a few threads. Then you can tighten everything down.

Just still puzzles me why both of you are using longer than 40mm for installing the front plates. I actually used to send out 35mm for the license plate and 40mm for the bottoms when I sold them back then.

Regarding cutting off 3-4" off the bottom edge with only the two license plate screws holding the plate, I would highly advise against it. You'll need at least 4 secure mounting points for the plate to be held safely onto the front of the vehicle. If you eliminate the bottom mounting points, you can jeopardize the plate's installation security and could possibly break off at time. I've some owners who replaced the top cosmetic screws with real screws into the cladding for additional security. Going less than the minimum 4 screws would not be advisable IMO. HTH.

[vt_maverick]

I got the license plate bolts in first, left them REAL loose (as in only 2-3 turns on the threads), then worked the lower bolts through the opening and onto their threads, then turned them until the plate contacted the cladding. Then I went back up to the license plate bolts, torqued them all the way down, then went back to the lower bolts. I tried the reverse a few times and found that to be impossible.

Looks good Sue!

[VX KAT]

Regarding cutting off 3-4" off the bottom edge with only the two license plate screws holding the plate, I would highly advise against it.

Oh, most know that was just one of my typical bizarre joking ideas when I'm frustrated....:_brickwal

I used 45s because I had the metal washer and then a rubber washer too. I tried both 35 and 40s and couldn't get it to catch.

...dang Ash, I can't even see getting a single thread started on those bottom ones, it's at such an angle, even when pressing the bottom. I'll snap some pics tomorrow when it's light.

Ron, I'll look more closely at the bracket you're talking about. Although I did note the cladding hole and the bracket hole were in perfect alignment.

Hey LUNA! What's your schedule look like? :flower::whiteflag: