Minor VX issues?

[O Hell No O]

Hi everyone!

Idle Air Control Valve - Cleaned. (was replaced but didn't fix the idle issue so I returned it)
Fuel Pressure Regulator - Replaced.
Fuel Pressure Regulator Hose - Replaced.
Fuel Filter - Replaced

So, the rough idling is still present. Its weird though, it has to do with something around the Idle Air control Valve. EVERY single time I spray carb cleaner in that section the rough idle stops for a couple days then comes back. I also keep cleaning the Control Valve too. I went to the extent of replacing the valve but still no difference. I'm thinking its something electrical? I have to at least turn the car off for 5 seconds or more, then start it up and its fine... no 2k-3k idle rpm. Anything before 5 seconds it starts up at 2-3k rpm.

So I found out the ERRRR noise is from the A/C compressor. The belt tensioner pulley too was making some noise, took that apart and found a little bit of sand in there. Washed it thoroughly with WD40 and added some grease now I notice less noise overall. Still got the compressor to go...
Anyone know where I can get a replacement for a decent price? OR would taking apart the AC to replace the bearing part be worth it? AC works fine but that noise is becoming really annoying and worse... Forgot what the bearing was called ATM. Though when the AC is turned on its not so loud but you can hear it a little. Just a tiny bit, maybe its normal when turned on at least.
Here is a video of the 'err' sound(s). Listen carefully :)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPXy1WqpWws

ABS - Someday i'll get to that. But not any time soon.


Thanks so much guys!
Randy.

[Triathlete]

Hi everyone!

I've been trying to figure out where to start on this VX. Recently the Engine light came on, stated there was a valve leak. A friend of mine pointed out it could be the Idle Air Control Valve, possible carbon buildup. So we took the device off and sure enough it was filthy. Sometimes there would be high idle instances. normally 2k rpm, 3k rpm happened once. The car would shut off as soon as you started the engine. Also while driving sometimes it would idle like that in drive so you'd have to push the brakes harder to get it to stop.

As this was our first time actually working on a car, we decided to take it to a mechanic. Was an easy clean (lots of carbon, tons) and learning experience. Reset the Engine light and stayed off. We decided to test it going up a ramp on the expressway. Right as we hit 80+ MPH the light came back on. We had it check and said it was an O2 Sensor. After a couple days the Light went off. Then a couple days later as we were washing the VX light came back on a few minutes after. Stating both sensors are having issues.

I don't have any idea to where the sensors are, i've read about cleaning them but is that the best option? In addition, like some here, I have the steering play issue. The car does sway both left and right and there is about 1.5in to 2in play on the steering. Before I tamper with the tightening screw i'd like to first check the tie rods and what not. As I am a noob at this i'm hoping someone here would guide me to the right spot.

Aaaand one more thing, the ABS light. Its on, any idea where to start on that? :D

Thanks so much guys!
Randy.

The o2 sensors are located on the exhaust pipes. There are 2 on each side, one before the cat and one after. New ones run $50-60 and are available at any parts store.

[AnalogVX]

Try cleaning the Mas Air sensor at the airbox first. That will send a fault for an 02 sensor, lean condition, but it's not listed on the codes.

[etlsport]

for your idle issues also try doing a search for "fuel pressure regulator" and for "intake manifold gaskets" both of them can cause idle issues

your abs light is either a speed sensor or more common the abs module under the hood went bad, unfortunately its very common on the VX. the dealer charges 2500-3000 for a new one, but you can find them online used for 100-200 and the installation is pretty if you dont mind getting dirty and can follow directions, its well documented here

[O Hell No O]

Hey, thanks guys for the responses!

Triathlete
I'll take a look when my sister comes back, see if I can find the sensors then.
Will they be under the car? Or under the hood?


AnalogVX
How would I go about cleaning a Mass Air Sensor? :confused:


etlsport
I'm not sure if thats the issue here. Ever since we cleaned the carbon off that valve, we haven't experienced any high idling yet. As far as the ABS what would I need to look into to pin-point the issue if its the module or a sensor?

Thanks again guys!
Randy.

[AnalogVX]

Hey, thanks guys for the responses!

How would I go about cleaning a Mass Air Sensor? :confused:


Thanks again guys!
Randy.

There is an aerosol spray made for cleaning the MAS sensor. I want to think brake cleaner would work just as well, but I haven't tried it. Just remove the sensor from the intake by removing two clamps, spray it down and let it dry. Would be much cheaper and easier to try before changing out the 02 sensors and should be cleaned regularly when changing the air filter. A search should bring up more info from the forum.

[O Hell No O]

AnalogVX
If that didn't help, would it be worth it to try and clean the O2 sensors?

[Grif]

Having been thru idle issues myself, I say clean the MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor, its up by your airbox, use "sensor safe" cleaner, dunno why, but ppl say its a must to use else damage it), replace the AIT (Air Intake Temperature sensor), youv'e already done the IAC (Idle Air Control) so scratch that off the list. O2 sensors are easy to test if you have a competent mechanic he should charge you next to nothing for that. O2 sensors are also cheap and fairly easy to replace most of the time. FPR (Fuel Pump Regulator) as others have mentioned can also be a prob.

Also keep in mind that even after doing all that, your idle issues may not go away. Mine was not throwing any codes, but my idle was way too high most of the time. Somtimes it was OK, others it would idle tween 2000 and up to 3000 RPM. No codes or check engine being thrown. Ended up being somthing really bizzare. A power steering line pressure sensor. When that sensor is giving a low pressure reading, (rightly or wrongly) it will tell the ECU to up the RPM's to maintain pressure thus allowing proper steering.

So my advice, fix whatever it throwing the codes first. If the codes say O2 sensors, start there. Cleaning them is probably not your best option. Replace them after testing to be sure they are failing. The code the ECU is throwing should indicate which of the two sensors are being a prob.

If you still have idle probs, then look at the other stuff.

[Grif]

Oh, and download the VX manual from the downloads section. it is your friend.

[O Hell No O]

Grif
Thanks! I'll checkout those things, see what I can get done tomorrow.

[O Hell No O]

So I cleaned the MAF sensor. Still no improvement I can notice. So... after we cleaned the valve of carbon, engine light went away, then came back same day, stated it was O2 sensors, then went away a couple days later... another couple days later it came back... o2 sensors again... now its gone away... =S no engine light now but still feels like its not giving as much power as the VX use to provide.

However, the hose that goes into the FPR (Fuel pump regulator) came off easy. I can see there are cracks at the end where the hose goes onto the pipe of the regulator. Could that be the cause of all this? That hose being a little cracked allowing air from outside come in? I didn't have the chance to take the FPR completely off cause we haven't been able to have at least a day off for more than enough time to check the part.

Just and update/FYI, while stopped at a restaurant my sister kinda pushed the gas a tiny bit while in park, engine revved and went back down to normal, then about a second later it revved back to 2000rpm by itself.

Additionally, when the doing a cold start, it starts fine, but sometimes I can hear an 'errrrrrrrrrr' while engine is running. Its intermittent too, it does it for a split second or a couple, maybe a few more. While the engine is still cold and you start driving, the engine sounds louder than normal and seems like its not switching gears smoothly. This only happens when its still cold. After warming up it performs and sounds fine but the errrrr noise still present when going slow speeds or stopping at a light. I'll try and take a video to post here so ya'll can understand what i'm talkin' about :)

Where is the fuel filter? I should probably change that as-well anyway?

Should I just go ahead and replace the FPR? Never been changed since we had it and its now at 140k+ miles.Got it since 85k+ miles.

If all that still doesn't help -.- i'll just replace O2 sensors.
After that next project is the ABS... Then the steering play.

Thanks guys!
Randy.

[Grif]

Yes replace the fuel filter. Might as well, its cheap.
I know ppl are saying replace the FPR, but I say attack the problems that the system itself (the ECU, the codes) are telling you is the problem. You will still have the O2 sensors throwing codes anyways, even if the FPR is replaced most likely.
Move on then to the FPR, as many have said. And their experience is far greater than mine.

As far as ABS? Dont bother. Pull the ABS dashlight out. Not worth fixing and not worth having.

[LittleBeast]

I just took the check engine light and the ABS light bulbs out. I have been running strong for 140,000 miles no problems with brakes or engine ;-) seriously I just took the bulbs out.....

[tom4bren]

My $.02

Pull the ABS light = Yes. Our ABS is less than optimal and many owners prefer it to be disabled anyway. Plus, you are going to find that to be a fairly expensive fix.

Pull the Check Engine light (CEL) = No. Even if you are chasing gremlins that make it come on, eventually it's going to signal when you need to maintain something urgently.

Clean the O2 sensors = No. O2 sensors are notorious for going bad (not just the VX - all cars). They either work or they don't. For the sensor to operate, there is a heater element in them which is usually what goes bad and cleaning them won't fix that.

FPR hose: replace that before you go any further. It's an obvious problem and could be causing some of your symptoms. It's a cheap easy fix. Just remove it and take it to your local parts store & they should be able to get you what you need.

[blacksambo]

Sounds like codes 171 and 172. These indicate leaky common chamber gaskets. To confirm spray some carb cleaner along the edges of the gaskets. If the idle changes up, that's your problem. If you install new ones torque to no more than 13lbs. Oh, use an OBDII checker to confirm your codes. You can borrow one at Advanced Auto for free.

[O Hell No O]

Here is the video. You might have to raise the volume to hear the ringing/rattle noise...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPXy1WqpWws

Grif
Ya, but there are no codes being thrown anymore. Like tom4bren said, if they're bad they'll remain bad, can't fix them. If thats the case the codes should still show up. But the codes are gone. =/

LittleBeast
=S

tom4bren
Thanks :)
I have replaced the hose and seems a little better, I went ahead and replaced the FPR cause the old one looked pretty dirty and old inside.
As far as O2 sensors go, the codes aren't showing up anymore. Engine light has went off.

blacksambo
I'll try that here soon.

As the engine light comes on then off, done it twice already and its been off(throwing O2 sensor code)... can it be the O2 sensors at all? Judging from tom's post... Also, we did an oil change and oil filter change as we changed the hose and FPR... When we tested it, I don't know if it was my excessive concentrating but I think I heard knocking or clicking in the engine.

[O Hell No O]

Updated main post.

[etlsport]

not sure what kind of noise youre getting on decel. many have reported a whining sound from the front diff under those circumstances, maybe check levels there

[crager34]

I might be way off base with this, but.... could the "errrr" sound be coming on when the A/C fan kicks in? When mine does (off and on more than I like) my engine does sound different.

[O Hell No O]

I might be way off base with this, but.... could the "errrr" sound be coming on when the A/C fan kicks in? When mine does (off and on more than I like) my engine does sound different.

No, this noise sometimes stays on while driving in first through second gears. Sometimes making the engine sound REALLY loud inside the car. Not revving loud but like... ITS LOUD.. lol But if it doesn't stay on it always comes back on when it decelerates to its idle rpm - 1100 rpm. I was thinking its the A/C compressor. But when I turn it on it kinda sounds louder, don't know ... ergh....

Other times it tickles on and off. Kinda like..

Err... then Normal, errr, then normal... ERRRRRRRRRRRR, then normal... ERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR... intermittently...

[Cobrajet]

Check your surpentine belt tensioner and idler pulleys. That sounds a lot like mine did, and the bearing in the tensioner were destroyed. If it fails while driving you'll have a real mess on your hands.

[LittleBeast]

2 possible issues to consider:

There is a nut that sometimes works itself loose just underneath the EGR valve which is located on the top left of the engine.

When the alternator bearing is going out on VX's it starts to whine with the engine on and sometimes chirps upon start up. Then when the AC is on it gets louder especially when the steering is turned. Which leads some people to think this is the AC or the steering bearings but in fact is the alternator.

[Mile High VX]

Check your surpentine belt tensioner and idler pulleys. That sounds a lot like mine did, and the bearing in the tensioner were destroyed. If it fails while driving you'll have a real mess on your hands.

X2...this is just what happened to me a few months ago when my tensioner let go. I was blessed to be only a few blocks from the house and got it home and fixed the next day.

[O Hell No O]

Updated main post