steering links

[Bob Barker]

So I'm trying to do the differential drop this weekend and I'm already stuck. The steering link, the first one that is attached to the steering box, has a 31mm nut on it. Is that one that I remove and the idler on the other frame rail as well, or the two smaller castle nuts? I've got the smaller castle nuts off but I have been hammering on them so much to get them out they are starting to deform! Help!

If I get a wrench the right sizes to take the big nut off the steering box, how hard will it be to get it ligned back up on the right grooves when reinstalling?

Thanks!

[etlsport]

i havent taken it apart on the VX yet, but putting a block of wood over the bottom of the bolt you are hammering is always a good idea.. i also have left the castle nut flush with the bottom of the bolt and then a block of wood to help even more.

a tie rod puller may help too

http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/public/RlDJc8QNomlJzy-Uqd8iIA1n8A1hn1kqbG4U0dROiA9-Gm3-YawpMloqsDCrgFT4VBB1BENEBu6c8Sr1fqxMZiLq9LHwLYWprr awg3Nl_3e6yXdlMwyJU6S15DXC-WHBcLadn5LftXJV7BL1KDxdR5uqS7yYF7_2M5dArqNxFY1GnN1 n2PIf-wfs-bFxpx-eirYAvZd9mdYmoCYYbbx4N8f3V_ITRPUf4AQKALZMRO1hb3tZm bIfwGd-Mb4uFWQXDcFKRlhlZKG5VMzGmuaAzWFBMpsp4o-M_IrATEymCUgH3ZnUOfrphRQWq78t20hf3wCuBtnuBzR2hA4Cg akX

you should be able to remove the pitman and idler arms from the center link without having to take them off the frame and steering box

looking through old posts, tom said he had a lot of trouble with one he worked on, had to apply LOTS of heat before it would come loose

if you do remove the pitman arm completely, there are "notches" in the teeth that will help you line it back up

[VXorado]

You don't need to remove the steering linkage to drop the differential. I know the guides say you do but you can get the diff brackets in & out with the steering linkage on. I did a 2" diff drop last month and worked around the steering linkage. Good luck, the whole project was a pita but worth it.

[LittleBeast]

The 2 posts above mine are both correct!

To get the steering center link and/or tie rods loose you WILL need a puller. I would suggest a 3 arm puller like this one:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31bNLXiNOwL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-OTC465-Three-Griplock-Puller/dp/B002RCNKMO
Only $40 at amazon and it will save you hours and hours of frustration/cursing/bruised knuckles and hammering with a 5lb hammer. Even once the puller is on the joints and torqued down almost as much as it will go, you will still need a few nice hits with the hammer, but the puller does its job and releases the joint very easily once you know what you are doing.

But just as already stated you do not absolutely need to remove all of the center link. I myself just loosened the idle arm side and left the steering box connection in tact, but before I bought a very nice puller I totally ruined the center steering link and had to buy a new one off of Amazon.com for $100. Good luck!

[Bob Barker]

I ended up putting the castle nuts back on and everything back, ran out of time for the weekend. I'm going to do it myself, hopefully soon, since I've got access to a cutter and welder (someone else will be doing the welding) here at work. I will probably try again, this weekend should be another 3 days. Thanks for the heads up on the pullers and not having to remove the steering links completely!

[tom4bren]

When I installed my diff drop, I ran into the same thing but was able to eventually get them loose. Remember that if/when you do get them loose, apply some anti-sieze when reassembling them just in case you ever need to break them free again.

When I helped CSTYLES install his diff drop, we ended up doing the same thing that LittleBeast did & FUBAR'd the center link. He actually took a torch to the old one after it was replaced to eventually get the joint free (not sure if that part was out of anger or out of curiosity to see if it could be done).

What's happening is that the joints are designed with too shallow of a taper. When the castle nut is installed, it causes the tapered shaft to bind. If they had been designed with a steeper taper we wouldn't be having this trouble. Hind sight is always 20-20.

When using the puller, remove the castle nut & then put it back on upside-down (flush with the top of the shaft). The nut will help to protect the threads & shaft.

[Bob Barker]

That's good to know. I was afraid I would be the only maroon out there who couldn't get his steering link off his half shafts!

[tom4bren]

Nope, not alone. When mine broke free, it sounded like a gunshot. I actually deformed the head of the pitman arm puller I was using and had to grind it back down into shape.

If you still can't get'r done, take it to a good alignment shop & pay them to break it free & then re-install it with the anti sieze I mentioned above. I'm sure they have lots of experience with stubborn ball joints. Of course, they probably will ask for liability waiver for damage in the process.

[Bob Barker]

Well I got all the way to the point of the differential ready to fall out, all the bracket bolts are removed and everything out of the way, almost. I decided to leave the steering links in place and now, of course, they are in the way... What did you guys do to get around the steering links? I was going to have someone turn the steering wheel because i was covered in grease but every body here has already gone to bed... So I'm gonna try again tomorrow, what should I do to avoid taking the steering links out?

[Bob Barker]

So went back out about 6am this morning and turned the wheel all the way to the passenger side. I don't know if that's what did it, or I was just too tired to get it done last night, but it came out with a little pushing and prodding. Got both axles out and brackets off, and now to make some measurements and cut/weld.

Who has made their own front cross member, what amount did you remove and reinforce to make enough room for the lowered parts?

[ZEUS]

Here is how I did mine:

I forgot what size I used but I welded a C to the original crossmember to extend it. I put one bolt thru it.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DropBracket.jpg

On the driver side I put the outer bolt thru the original hole.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DropBracket2.jpg
I had intentions of added all four bolts back but never did - just kept the two. Never had any issues come from it but it is sloppy work. :)

[Bob Barker]

So if what I made/modified on my front cross member doesn't fit, can I drive it around without the crossmember in place temporarily until I make something that fits?

[tom4bren]

You should be OK driving around without the crossmember for a while. IIRC Zeus did that.

If you like, I can check with Welder Guy to see how much just for the crossmember drops until you figure out what's going to work for you.

Tom

[RamAirZ]

That crossmember isn't a structural piece anyways so the only thing that would come from it not being in is possibly banging the front diff on something. Here is a modified crossmember to maintain max ground clearance, just notched out the factory crossmember. Some guys have even cut and welded that area around the diff a little lower instead of notching it but either works:

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/202/202463/folders/217084/168736310.jpg

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/202/202463/folders/217084/168736509.jpg

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/202/202463/folders/217084/168736611.jpg

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/202/202463/folders/217084/168736712.jpg

[Bob Barker]

What you posted there Dallas is almost exactly what I did with mine. Except I didn't go far enough to the passenger side of the crossmember to completely clear the differential. So long as ill be ok driving around at least for a day I will take it back to work tomorrow night and cut out what is needed and re paint. I've gotten everything else bolted in and it all looks really good. thanks for all the help! I will get some photos up soon. Forgot to mention we took it down 1&3/4" and the cv angles look awesome!

[tom4bren]

That crossmember isn't a structural piece anyways so the only thing that would come from it not being in is possibly banging the front diff on something.

Sorta-kinda.

The only thing the crossmember does is stiffen the frame slightly. Probably the only thing you'd notice is some slightly increased body roll in HARD cornering.

[Bob Barker]

10-4 copy that. I'll have it modified tonight and back on tomorrow afternoon.

[RamAirZ]

can't wait to see it John!

[Bob Barker]

I'm at work now and fixing to go finish the cross member. Here are some shots of what we did with the brackets, and the newly painted front axle.


http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/VehiCROSS/IMAG0018.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/VehiCROSS/IMAG0017.jpg
Painted them with some rustoleum Safety Red. I like it! It isn't quite so extreme under the truck. Looks really loud in these photos.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/VehiCROSS/IMAG0022.jpg

I also painted the front axle housing and the cross memeber, which I'll share when I'm done with it tonight.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/VehiCROSS/IMAG0024.jpg

And then get some pics if it all in place under the truck, along with the CV joint angles.

[Bob Barker]

Oh, and the test drive earlier today and to work tonight went great. The vibration is 90% gone that I was getting between 25 and 30mph, and the BRRrrrrr that used to happen at highway speed deceleration is completely gone. World of difference. I'm so proud of my little moon buggy I may go ahead and order the wheels and tires I've been putting off for months now!

[RamAirZ]

DO IT!!!!!!! We'll have to go wheeling when I come down :) And Tom, have you noticed how the bolts aren't very tight in those crossmember holes (they wobble a good bit when not tight), if it strengthens it at all it can't be much at all, I doubt you'd notice much more body roll honestly. Maybe we should test it! I think it was just meant as a skidplate. But hey, opinions are like a-holes lol.

[Bob Barker]

Driving around I honestly can't notice any difference without it. But I haven't been pushing it around any corners. I tend to drive like and old oriental tourist in the Disney area with gas prices the way they are.

And I agree with that about the bolts having wiggle room. I would think that if it were to privide much structural strength then there would be bushings or thicker metal at the mounting points. Either way it's going back on, brigt safety red and all! And if it were ment as a skid plate for the diff then it's gonna be better than factory, we used 1/4" 304 stainless for filling in material in the brackets and where I cut out the cross member we welded the same in place there. MUCH thicker than factory metal.

[RamAirZ]

:thumbsup:

[Bob Barker]

I got it cut out, and all the bolt holes line up without touching the differential, BUT, there is less than 1/16" clearance between the bottom of the diff and the cross member. And the input yoke to the back of the diff only clears the cross member by about 1/2" or less in one spot. Should I worry about it contacting?

My own thought are the diff won't move any since the mounts are solid. But I have been wrong before. What do the experts say?

[RamAirZ]

The diff shouldn't move and the only time it would possibly contact is if you bang the crossmember on a rock and bend it upwards

[Bob Barker]

Shibby! I'll repaint and install this afternoon.

[tom4bren]

Glad it all worked out for you.

It doesn't look like you ground the weld line on the diff brackets. I'm suprised the axle housing bolted up for you. I would have thought that the welds would have caused the CV outer races to rub the diff bracket.

[RamAirZ]

I was wondering that too but if it worked, awesome!

[Marlin]

You don't need to remove the steering linkage to drop the differential. I know the guides say you do but you can get the diff brackets in & out with the steering linkage on. I did a 2" diff drop last month and worked around the steering linkage. Good luck, the whole project was a pita but worth it.

X2!!!!!!! I never broke the steering out of the truck either, just shifted the diff around and turned the steering wheel as needed.

[tom4bren]

I was wondering that too but if it worked, awesome!

See, I told you I wasn't losing my mind

[RamAirZ]

See, I told you I wasn't losing my mind

I don't think the jury has came back with a verdict on that yet

[tom4bren]

'Specially since I was comparing my sanity level to yours. That's just wrong on so many levels.

BTW, I finally found the donut. Lemme know if still needed.

[RamAirZ]

hahahaha you trying to say I'm crazy? And I'll let ya know soon, thanks tom

[Bob Barker]

Yeah the most we did with the welds was a wire brush and buffer wheel on a side cutter. It seald up nicely and didn't cause any issues. No leaks either. I ASSumed when doing all this that the axle seals being on the inside would create the seal and not the mating face of the brackets and axle tubes. Worked out well in my favor!

Oh, were you talking about the green cup rubbing the brackets? There is a tiny gap (still there with the welds) between the green cup and the brackets. :thumbup:

[tom4bren]

True, the seals would take care of preventing leaks. When Welder Guy & I were contemplating the mod, we decided that since the mating surface of the axle housing was machined, that it was best to grind the welds in that area smooth.

One caution (forgive me Lord for agreeing with Zeus on any matter:)) - Check the tightness of the bolts that hold the axle housing to the diff brackets periodically. They can work loose over time & that's exacerbated by the fact that you've significantly decreased the mating surface area. Some locktite on the threads would've been a good idea but we forgot to tell you that (hindsight it 20-20).

[Bob Barker]

Thanks for the heads up! I'll put an alert in the phone for every couple months or so to double check the bolts. If it comes down to it and they are backed out each time I think with some contortion-ing I could back them out enough and get at least a little lock tite on the threads.

[tom4bren]

I'm at work now and fixing to go finish the cross member. Here are some shots of what we did with the brackets, and the newly painted front axle.

I also painted the front axle housing and the cross memeber, which I'll share when I'm done with it tonight.

And then get some pics if it all in place under the truck, along with the CV joint angles.

Yes, please do post some pix when done. I did mine similar to that (except that I didn't paint the axle & I went with John Deere yellow)


http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/CIMG1008.JPG

There are more pix on page 16 of my gallery.

[RamAirZ]

purty!

[tom4bren]

Not so much now. Liberal applications of CV grease has significantly diminished the advertised luster.

[RamAirZ]

it adds character :)

[tom4bren]

& it prevents rust.

[RamAirZ]

true! I pulled my front end today too. fun fun

[tom4bren]

true! I pulled my front end today too. fun fun

I have no response to that!!!

[RamAirZ]

well what can I say, I enjoy it :) Tried to get the wife to help but she didn't want to get dirty

[Bob Barker]

Here is everything in place under the truck. I scratched the diff up a good bit when trying to get it back in place. I'll touch it up some day.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/VehiCROSS/mail3.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/VehiCROSS/mail2.jpg
And the new angle of my dangle!
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/VehiCROSS/mail.jpg

[RamAirZ]

nice work John!