It's 10 PM, do you know where your spring helpers are?

[blacksambo]

Seriously, looked the other day and my spring helpers were MIA. Wow! Called Merlin and for $86.00 got pair of OEM replacements. What aifference isolating the frame from the body makes. Probably the best $86.00 I've ever spent on the VX. Check yours today.

[Grif]

Yes, its Spring, and I really need my helpers. Lawn needs to be mowed, shrubbery trimmed, pressure wash the shutters, garden needs tilling.... :)

But seriously. What are spring helpers? And where can I check them?

[Bob Barker]

I think he was talking about what I call spring isolators... maybe?

[VX KAT]

thank you grif! :yeso:

[blacksambo]

Spring helpers are located next to the rear coil springs and are large rubber figure-eight shaped donuts. They stop coil compression and isolate the frame from the body. Mine rusted away sometime back. Maybe way back? But replacing them really really helps stabilize the ride and reduces the noise factor, significantly. Don't delay, check yours today.

[samneil2000]

bump stops???

[Ldub]

bump stops???

:yesgray:

[VX KAT]

oh, they're bumps stops...yeah, we've talked about them quite a bit in the past few months...
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=19217&highlight=bump+stop

http://vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=19628&highlight=bumpstops

[Ebenezr]

Well... gee.. I didn't know my springs needed help. but I could use some help this spring...I mean I got a lot to get done. :)

[etlsport]

i just replaced mine with some off a trooper (but I cut them in half to give a less jarring ride)

the ones i removed from my VX were in much worse shape than the replacements off the trooper, which is odd since the trooper was like 6 years older.. and had almost 200k on it. the ones i pulled off my vx seemed to be cracking at the top of the lower "loop" I'm guessing the VX rode on them pretty hard, which now has me thinking my springs are going to get more abuse.. might just order a new set. the other thing i noticed is the ones off the VX seem harder than the ones i took from the trooper

[LittleBeast]

Haha, "spring helpers"! That is awesome :-)

I have the 2" bumpstop square tube extensions, plus the oversized red bump stops from Energy Systems, should not really feel a difference unless you are riding on your bumpstops, which in that case your springs are probably dead, or your shocks need replacing. In any case the bumpstops, do what their name says, they more gently "stop" your compression on up travel so that it is not a sudden "bump" when your springs(or shocks) reach max compression, or when the top of your tire contacts with the bottom of your rear cladding (wheel well).

[Mile High VX]

i just replaced mine with some off a trooper (but I cut them in half to give a less jarring ride)



Did the same...much better ride!

[blacksambo]

Yeah. There is no way these are just bump stops (They exist on the the front A arms of the VX). These "helpers" take the body and insulate it from the frame. Without them you're talking metal to metal contact between the frame and the body, and that means noise. If you study a VX underside you'll see rubber isolaters at all the mounting points. These spring helpers do just that, they help the spring and shock mounting points avoid a metal to metal ride in the rear. Renew yours and and you'll immediately hear the difference.

[Ldub]

Yeah. There is no way these are just bump stops (They exist on the the front A arms of the VX). These "helpers" take the body and insulate it from the frame. Without them you're talking metal to metal contact between the frame and the body, and that means noise. If you study a VX underside you'll see rubber isolaters at all the mounting points. These spring helpers do just that, they help the spring and shock mounting points avoid a metal to metal ride in the rear. Renew yours and and you'll immediately hear the difference.

You could be referring to the bushings that the front A arms attach to, or the bushings that attach the shocks to their mounts, or the sway bar bushings that isolate the sway bar from the frame, the lower links, upper link & panhard bar all have rubber mounts (bushings), as do all the points of attachment where the body is mounted to the frame. And yes, there are rubber isolator pads between the rear springs & the frame...:yesgray:

And I'm pretty sure my list missed a few...but I'm still not sure what you're referencing...:_confused

[LittleBeast]

Haha yeah I have no idea what "spring helpers" are :-) maybe the body mount bushings? You are 25 days late for an April fools joke, haha.

[Triathlete]

A pic of said "spring helper" would go a long way in clearing up the mass confusion:yesy:

[blacksambo]

Consult the VX parts book. They are definitely called spring helpers not bump stops. They are always in use, not just when you hit big bumps. Also, the wrapper they come in calls them spring helpers because that's what they do. If you shorten them you will further compress your coil and change the spring rate by some factor. If you like that, fine, but it's no longer the factory spring rate.

[deermagnet]

He's right. I found 'em. #8-94374-448-1, Rubber Rear Spring Helper.
It's the figure eight "bump stops" as we've always called 'em.

You can order 'em at your local Honda dealer-
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~rubber~8-94374-448-1.html (http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~rubber~8-94374-448-1.html)

http://www.drivehq.com/file/df.aspx/publish/mgpa/imgs/vx/rrbump.gif
http://www.drivehq.com/file/df.aspx/publish/mgpa/imgs/vx/rrbumpa.gifhttp://www.drivehq.com/file/df.aspx/publish/mgpa/imgs/vx/rrbumpb.gif


Mark

[RickOKC]

Something like that coming up missing always makes ya think, "What in the heck happened?!?!"

[Mile High VX]

Something like that coming up missing always makes ya think, "What in the heck happened?!?!"

I've seen quite a few in the yards where the metal they are mounted too just gives it up and the rubber piece falls away...

[blacksambo]

They are a cheap way of engineering a smooth ride. I'll never forget how they acheived ride stability in early '70's Cadillac Eldorados. They mounted a latitudinal tube in the rear with a monorail track inside supporting a very heavy lead weight attached to spings at either end. As the car cornered the weight swung to the opposite flank effectively leveling the vehicle on the cheap. The springs re-centered it on the straights. Spring helpers are the same inexpensive way of full-time ironing out the vehicle vibrations and undulations. You should renew yours today and see the difference.

[Bob Barker]

Is it just the same to get a spring tall enough to keep my vx from hitting the bump stops? :D

[LittleBeast]

Consult the VX parts book. They are definitely called spring helpers not bump stops. They are always in use, not just when you hit big bumps. Also, the wrapper they come in calls them spring helpers because that's what they do. If you shorten them you will further compress your coil and change the spring rate by some factor. If you like that, fine, but it's no longer the factory spring rate.

Haha. Must be some weird thing in the Japanese to English translation. Yeah those are the bumpstops as the rest of the world calls them. If you are riding on them 24/7 once again I would look at your springs/shocks. Many members here claim they are riding on their bumpstops but they are really only intended to "help" the springs on extreme up travel (as we all have already expressed) so that you do not "bottom out" so rough, or to smooth out suspension compression, or for those of us with larger tires it keeps the top of the tire from contacting the cladding on up travel.

Hope this link helps clear it up:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/Energy-Suspension-Universal-Bump-Stops-Shock-Eyes.asp

These are the bumpstops that most everyone here that has done a lift and Tire upgrade have replaced the old bumpstops with:
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9.9104

Quote from website: "bump stops help cushion your suspension, preventing bottoming-out and the extensive damage that can result from doing so..... Larger competition style universal bump stops smooth out suspension compression and have a large reinforced metal plate welded to the mounting plate and molded-into the bump stop itself."

[Ebenezr]

I pick my spring helper up at the airport Saturday. We will have a cleaner kitchen once she is home...:)

[etlsport]

They are a cheap way of engineering a smooth ride. I'll never forget how they acheived ride stability in early '70's Cadillac Eldorados. They mounted a latitudinal tube in the rear with a monorail track inside supporting a very heavy lead weight attached to spings at either end. As the car cornered the weight swung to the opposite flank effectively leveling the vehicle on the cheap. The springs re-centered it on the straights. Spring helpers are the same inexpensive way of full-time ironing out the vehicle vibrations and undulations. You should renew yours today and see the difference.

this makes sense.. I put a set in my vx that was 1/2 height. the ride is definitely less jarring, but not as smooth. I'm noticing a lot more small vibrations from driving on what used to feel like smooth roads. however going over train tracks and the horrible streets around my neighborhood, the ride is much smoother

back on the highway today, so that will be my deciding factor whether the modified ones stay or go

[vt_maverick]

This is all very confusing. All I know is that when I hit potholes, speed bumps, or anything that required my suspension to travel more than an inch or two I got a teeth-jarring bang from the rear axle with the intact OEM "spring helpers". I cut them in half and bingo, no more hard bangs.

Don't delay, cut yours today, you'll find you like the way... your VX rides. :)

[blacksambo]

My wife's very low mileage VX rides 24/7 on the spring helpers. So you can't blame the springs/shocks. Spring helpers are an engineered portion of the suspension and contibute full time to the ride characteristics. They don't really limit upward wheel travel as my higher mileage Vx demostrated, having the spring helpers MIA for so long. I have over sized tires and have never had them hit the wheel housing. As mentioned earlier, these spring helpers are missing on a lot of VX 's in the wrecking yard, they wouldn't be missing if they only stopped extreme bumps top hits, as that problem would need to be addressed due to tire and body damage. The reason they were not replaced is that they merely contributed a smooth ride feature that owners did not perceive going degrading with their departure. They are called "spring helpers" because they contribute something extra, they are not mission critical.

[vt_maverick]

My wife's very low mileage VX rides 24/7 on the spring helpers. So you can't blame the springs/shocks. Spring helpers are an engineered portion of the suspension and contibute full time to the ride characteristics. They don't really limit upward wheel travel as my higher mileage Vx demostrated, having the spring helpers MIA for so long.

None of that makes sense to me. How are you defining "rides 24/7 on the spring helpers"? I bought my VX at 22K miles and the bump stops never touched the axle while parked - they always sat about 1/2" to 1" above the axle. When I removed mine they were in perfect shape, with the exception of some rust on the mounting plate. Why would yours ride on the stops and mine not? If you're not "riding on the stops" 24/7, then they can't contribute full time.

If they don't limit upward wheel travel, then what is their purpose?

[blacksambo]

All I can say as ours touches the axel plate below the spring helper, at rest. Ours is a '99.

[blacksambo]

Also, 2000's mostly ran 18" tires not 16's, with likely no different spring for the 2000 model. Besides, what's a half an inch once a 4000 lb vehicle starts moving, that small difference is likely lost and they touch.

[VX KAT]

None of that makes sense to me. How are you defining "rides 24/7 on the spring helpers"? I bought my VX at 22K miles and the bump stops never touched the axle while parked - they always sat about 1/2" to 1" above the axle. When I removed mine they were in perfect shape, with the exception of some rust on the mounting plate. Why would yours ride on the stops and mine not? If you're not "riding on the stops" 24/7, then they can't contribute full time.

If they don't limit upward wheel travel, then what is their purpose?

When Tim at SBC was installing my window brackets, I recall he commented that every VX he'd ever seen had only 1/2" or less of space between the rear bumpstop and the axle. He said mostother trucks he's seen had several inches of clearance. Mine appeared to be sitting on the axle. This pic was before I upsized my tires.

I, too, can't see how they could smooth out the ride, or contribute to vibrations like Eric mentioned.....I guess if they smoothed out vibrations, they'd have to be sitting on the axle....which they do on many VXs. So I guess it ends up being a choice for us of: less vibration OR less slamming/jarring:_thinking
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN04351.JPG


As FYI -Here's one of the front bump stop (I believe there's two sets up front).
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCN0439.JPG

[blacksambo]

yes. Keep in mind the vehicle in motion will dynamically take up the small spring helper/axel gap. When I just looked very closely at my high mileage '99 VX the gap was indeed there, but only about 1/2 inch. This will close with speed and the resultant down force applied by air and motion. Thus, it creates an insulating effect by preventing metal to metal contact in the spring and shock body to frame set up area.

[Bob Barker]

I've got about 4" of space between my spring helpers/bump stops... but dont ever notice any vibrations, and can't rememer last time I bottomed out the rear axle... So I think everyone should just lift their VX's!

[blacksambo]

Right Bob."The Price is Right". Lift or suffer the doom of forever living with the weird influence of spring helpers. A fate worse than d______".

[Bob Barker]

:thumbup:

[technocoy]

I think this is a matter of a lot of VXs across years and different types of use and driving style causing inconsistency. My bump stops (VX) are at least two inches from my axle and every other 4x4 truck I've had (3) have been even further apart from the bump stop. Traditionally they are meant to stop frame/axle damage when used during heavy towing or offroading, etc.

Judging by the fact that those who have trimmed theirs to 1/2 their previous height are getting LESS bottoming out and a smoother ride, I'd have to say if someone is resting on there's and CERTAINLY bottoming out a lot on one that doesn't have them at all you definitely need to get your springs/shocks checked.

We've had folks on here who's factory shocks freakishly went at less than 30,000 miles, so just because it's sitting that way on a low mileage VX doesn't mean that's the way it's supposed to.

They are also further apart on my 89 Amigo and my Friends two door trooper. I think if anything it would have been an oversight in engineering with a short run vehicle than a new standard of suspension set-ups.

Then again, I've been wrong before. I was 7, but it DID happen ;-) I KEED I KEED.

[LittleBeast]

I've got about 4" of space between my spring helpers/bump stops... but dont ever notice any vibrations, and can't rememer last time I bottomed out the rear axle... So I think everyone should just lift their VX's!

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/315.JPG

Me too!!!!! Although since this picture I added the 2" square tube spacers so they are about 1" closer now. I was preparing for the 35" tires going on as soon as my current 33's need replacing ;-)

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/3258/3-1-10_009.jpg
On the left is the 2" spring spacer from Independent 4x and on the right is the stock spring spacer that sits on top of the springs and prevents metal spring to metal body contact.

[blacksambo]

I think this is a matter of a lot of VXs across years and different types of use and driving style causing inconsistency. My bump stops (VX) are at least two inches from my axle and every other 4x4 truck I've had (3) have been even further apart from the bump stop. Traditionally they are meant to stop frame/axle damage when used during heavy towing or offroading, etc.

Judging by the fact that those who have trimmed theirs to 1/2 their previous height are getting LESS bottoming out and a smoother ride, I'd have to say if someone is resting on there's and CERTAINLY bottoming out a lot on one that doesn't have them at all you definitely need to get your springs/shocks checked.

We've had folks on here who's factory shocks freakishly went at less than 30,000 miles, so just because it's sitting that way on a low mileage VX doesn't mean that's the way it's supposed to.

They are also further apart on my 89 Amigo and my Friends two door trooper. I think if anything it would have been an oversight in engineering with a short run vehicle than a new standard of suspension set-ups.

Then again, I've been wrong before. I was 7, but it DID happen ;-) I KEED I KEED.




The VX did indeed set a new standard for suspension set ups. That's what it's all about, with the monotube shocks. If you're not using your spring helpers all the time you will have a noisy ride by virtue of the direct contact between the shocks and springs to the body and frame, there would simply be no insulation factor without the spring helpers. My VX is the case in point, once the spring helpers were installed the ride smoothness increased and the noise level went way down.

[Ldub]

If you're not using your spring helpers all the time you will have a noisy ride by virtue of the direct contact between the shocks and springs to the body and frame, there would simply be no insulation factor without the spring helpers.

:confused:...the rest of the points you've made up until now are at least debatable, with a great many sticking points attributable to possible discrepancies in nomenclature.

But there is no "direct contact" between the springs/shocks & the frame, there are rubber spring isolators between the springs & frame, & every shock absorber I've ever seen has bushings in both ends.

But if what you've done is working for you...:dance:

[blacksambo]

[QUOTE=Ldub;227828]:confused:...the rest of the points you've made up until now are at least debatable, with a great many sticking points attributable to possible discrepancies in nomenclature.

But there is no "direct contact" between the springs/shocks & the frame, there are rubber spring isolators between the springs & frame, & every shock absorber I've ever seen has bushings in both ends.

But if what you've done is working for you. The shock and spring are transmitters between the body and frame unless something mitagates...thus the addition of the spring helpers. It's the meat in the sandwhich.

[Ldub]

The shock and spring are transmitters between the body and frame unless something mitagates...thus the addition of the spring helpers. It's the meat in the sandwhich.

Well see there...if you woulda referred to them as sandwich meat, or even ham sammiches, instead of spring helpers, we woulda known what you were talkin' about from the get go...:smilewink

And the majority of this thread woulda never happened...:rotate:

I've always called bump stops ham sammiches...:yes:

[technocoy]

The springs have the same connection points as before with or without the Bump Stops. I'm not sure I see this argument.

The suspension type was new because of the monotube shocks, low body roll (stiffer sway and side to side components) and high wheel travel. It has nothing to do with a standard component on every 4x4 ever made.

Sorry dude, I'm totally not trying to be difficult here it's just that the argument doesn't make any sense whatsoever. The parts we are talking about are so short and stiff they would do nothing to help the "ride" of a vehicle simply because of the amount of travel in a suspension at speed. It would be like getting rid of your shocks and springs on any downward movement and only having rebound help.

I'm not doubting that your experience may be that vibration has been cut to an extent, it's the same as tapping a wine glass and putting your finger anywhere on the side dampens the vibration. However that's a whole different thing from improving the ride.

Two or three others in the forum have had the exact opposite experience by TRIMMING their bumpstops and getting a MUCH smoother ride with a tiny bit more body roll. KAT is one of those I believe.

I mean, anything is possible and there are a lot of variables of course to our suspensions but I can't see how these are any more than what they are on every other 4x4 vehicle ever made.

I love our vehicle and it goes farther in a LOT of ways, but let's be honest, it's not perfect and there are some pretty glaring oversights here and there.

I could certainly be wrong, but it goes against every bit of experience I've had with 4x4 vehicles.

[LittleBeast]

They don't really limit upward wheel travel as my higher mileage Vx demostrated,.....
What? Haha, you are not trying hard enough! ;-)

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/VXmodifications_065.jpg
Here is a shot of me testing out the new extended bumpstops. At this time they were about 2" lower than the stock bumpstops. As you can see without this extra 2" down my tire would be eating up (rubbing) the cladding just above it. Since this picture I have added another 1" to the bumstops (2" square tube extensions) to prepare for the 35" tires. If you want me to take a closeup picture of the bumpstop from the undercarriage preventing rubbing I can?

Here is the new extended bumpstops before I took off the stock mount and added the 2" square tube spacer instead:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/VXmodifications_003.jpg
Here is the modified stock mount with old bumpstop cut off and new larger bumstop installed, once again this was before the 2" square tube extension was added:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/VXmodifications_002.jpg
This is the front stock bumpstop (black) and the ultra low profile bumpstop upgrade which actually increases DOWNTRAVEL it stops the a-arm from going down too low, the oposite of the rear bumpstops.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/LowBumstop.jpg
Picture of the ultra low profile bumpstop installed, it is the red round thing:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/LowBumpstop7.jpg
After installing this new lower profile front bumpstop and doing the ball joint flip I added an inch or two of downtravel and now the a-arms touch the mounting bolts on the front cross member about the same time as the low profile bumpstops. I am looking at getting some more narrow bolts for the front cross member once I install the modified cross member I just got in the mail from Joe so that those bolts no longer limit down travel. Then I just need the ball joint spacer from independent 4x and the torsion bar suspension travel upgrade and the VX will be maxed out for front wheel.

[LittleBeast]

Bumpstops in action saving my tires and wheel wells again:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/3241/7-22-09_33_.jpg
Here is the a-arm contacting the bolts on the cross member (after ball joint flip and lower profile bumpstops installed):
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/3255/6-3-09_032.jpg
In this photo you can see the a-arm upper bumpstops that Kat mentioned that limit up travel and soften bottoming out in the front, also note that the a-arms are not close to contacting cross member bolts, this is before ball joint flip and lower profile bumstops:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/3255/6-3-09_030.jpg
In this photo the low profile front bumpstop has been installed and you can see the plate it contacts with on down travel just below it, but I have not done the ball joint flip in this photo yet:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/LowBumpstop3.jpg
Ball joint flip done:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/BallJointFlip.jpg
Before and after of suspension down travel with ball joint flip and lower profile bumpstops on front. Hard to tell from the angle of the photos but I gained between 1-2", it was a very noticeable difference especially when looking at the a-arm to cross member bolt change:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/LowBumstop4.jpghttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/LowBumpstop5.jpg

[blacksambo]

This ia all very nice discussion, but the fact remains the VX did things very differently "by design". We are applying conventional suspension science to a vehicle that defys all that logic. As recalled with the Eldorado stability control, and if you can recall how Detroit inexpensively solved the traditional V-Eight balancing problem (a pulley with rubber bushing integrated...a la harmonic balancer etc.) the VX wanted to offer a new ride sensation for a pretty tall tipsy body (remember the Troooper / Consumer Reports fiasco), thus the invention of the spring helper or the redeployment of the bump stop to address a new issue ....sound level and body roll, by keeping it engaged in the coil and shock motion mix. Believe me it works well with monotube shocks, both with sound and anti -roll resistence. If they wanted a bump stop it wouldn't hover above the axel and would have been called a stop like it is on the front suspension. It's a whole new job it performs.

[LittleBeast]

Mr. Fist, meet Miss Palm.....

Trust me I know what you are saying, but riding on your bumpstops causes a very rough ride compared to not riding on your bumpstops. Riding on your bumpstops dramatically increases the force required for compression, and thus if you are riding on your bumpstops your ride will actually be rougher, hence when people's suspensions sag over time because of components (shocks/springs) wearing out, the quickest fix for a softer ride would be to cut the bumpstops shorter so that you would no longer be riding on the more stiff bumpstops, or get longer springs or a spring spacer to not ride on the more stiff bumpstops.

Basically the more things you put between the tires and yourself the more stiff the suspension will be. If I just have shocks this is VERY soft, then when the springs get involved it becomes more stiff, but then you add a bumpstop in the way and it becomes even stiffer. Basically the more meat in the sandwich the more you will feel in your pants :-) Just ask any low rider who is riding on his bumpstops how soft his ride is ;-)

There are actually charts to tell you how much more force is needed to compress a suspension when the bumpstops make contact, many bumpstops are known to increase the stiffness of the suspension by well over 1,000 lbs during cornering, this is important to know for racers who do not need to be surprised by their suspension all of a sudden becoming much more stiff once the bumpstops make contact.

[blacksambo]

While I agree with the traditional science you are giving here the first use of montube shocks may have neccessitated a new inexpensive solution to deliver a more roll resistant ride. As the VX does not begin to really press the spring helper into action until the slower-moving ultra stiff shocks and coil spring begin to emote dynamic force on them. All I'm proposing is that this is a new system of vehicle behavior, especially in conjunction with the introduction of full-time torque on demand. It's a whole new pitch and yawl situation the engineers are dealing with. At any rate you have to agree that the close proximity of the spring helper to the axel is a little bit unusual, to say the least, and there needs to be a reason for that. Bump stop duty alone just doesn't seem to be reason enough.

[RickOKC]

Crap. My left bump stop rests on the axle & the right one has about 3/8" gap. I guess my spring helpers need new springs.

[samneil2000]

Crap. My left bump stop rests on the axle & the right one has about 3/8" gap. I guess my spring helpers need new springs.

Your spring helpers need helpers. :bgwb:

[Ldub]

Crap. My left bump stop rests on the axle & the right one has about 3/8" gap. I guess my spring helpers need new springs.

Try switching the rear coils L>R / R<L, if the gap switches sides, it's the coils.

If the gap remains on the same side, your torsion bars may need to be tweaked a bit...:_wrench:

[blacksambo]

I just consulted the Isuzu 1997 Phantom Drawing of the VX and it indeed shows the spring helper in very close proximity to the rear axel, definitely not in a stop wheel bounce position (If I knew how to scan I'd post it , I'll have my wife help me do it later,though). Also, if you consult the parts book on the front suspension page the rubbber bits are specifically called "bumpers", not "spring helpers" so we can't just blame translation issues here. We have a deliberately new piece of suspension nomenclature being offered. I continue to think this is just an inexpensive way to insulate and prevent roll. It's not the kind of thing you would trumpet the auto press though because it's so darn simple and basic looking. It's just plain clever.

[Ldub]

I just consulted the Isuzu 1997 Phantom Drawing of the VX and it indeed shows the spring helper in very close proximity to the rear axel, definitely not in a stop wheel bounce position (If I knew how to scan I'd post it , I'll have my wife help me do it later,though).

Here ya go...


http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/VX_-_RAY.gif

[circmand]

I have 10AM

[blacksambo]

I have 10AM

Thank you Ldub. A picture says a thousand words.

Case closed...now on to other things.

[Ebenezr]

Here ya go...


http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/VX_-_RAY.gif

Yuh got ta have magnifyin eyeballs ta see ah spring halper in this picture.:confused:

[RickOKC]

Your spring helpers need helpers. :bgwb:
Are helper helpers also known as OME products? :laughing:


Try switching the rear coils L>R / R<L, if the gap switches sides, it's the coils.

If the gap remains on the same side, your torsion bars may need to be tweaked a bit...:_wrench:
Dr Ldub, VX Surgeon - you're one smart feller! Thanks! Now that I've thought about it, this pre-dates my earlier t-bar crank when I raised the nose 1". I'd measured the gap between the cladding & wheels beforehand when I was deciding how much to raise the front and that right rear corner was higher than the left. I guess I should have taken the hint then. :o

[Ldub]

Dr Ldub, VX Surgeon - you're one smart feller! Thanks! Now that I've thought about it, this pre-dates my earlier t-bar crank when I raised the nose 1". I'd measured the gap between the cladding & wheels beforehand when I was deciding how much to raise the front and that right rear corner was higher than the left. I guess I should have taken the hint then. :o

FWIW, there are instructions in one of the factory manual DL's that outline the torsion bar leveling procedure in detail...we're talkin string lines & the whole deal...:rolleyesg

A bit complicated, but if you REALLY want it to be by the book...

OTOH, I would trust a measurement from flat level concrete to the top of the wheel arch more than I would the gap meas.

Also, I usually give the drivers side about 1/2-3/4 turn extra tweak, to compensate a little for the usual 230 lb load on that side...:_wrench: