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Mile High VX
05/21/2011, 10:54 AM
Bought all of the stuff today to change my fluids with Royal Purple 75-140 and can't get either of the fill plugs loose.

Glad I checked them before I drained the fluids.

Any helpful suggestions (other than workout more...)?

Thanks.

etlsport
05/21/2011, 12:11 PM
give it a bit of heat with a small torch.. not too much though... other than that get a 6 point socket that will fit and put a pipe on the end of your wrench, mine get stuck often, i put a 2 foot pipe on the end of the socket wrench and they come loose

make sure its a 6 point socket though, if you use a 10 or 12 point you will likely round off the plug

PittVXr
05/21/2011, 12:34 PM
I had the same problem last year with mine. I just took it to my local mechanic and for $35 he changed front and rear fluids with the Mobil 1 Diff Fluid that I supplied. When I bought the Vehicross I took it to an Isuzu dealer to have everything inspected. I guess they cranked the plugs back on pretty tight.

p_justin13
06/01/2011, 04:56 PM
As etlsport said make sure to use a 6 point socket, as I learned the hard way. Ended up using a torch. don't forget to tape the crap out of um when putting back in, atleast the drain plugs that is.

LittleBeast
06/01/2011, 05:34 PM
Yeah 6 sided socket (make sure it is in mm), soak in PB Blaster, and then use a breaker bar (extension tube). And I don't want to scare you or anything but I have experienced better performance, and longer life with normal dino tranny fluid and diff fluid than synthetic stuff, don't know why doesn't really make sense to me, all I know is I have heard of more tranny's burning out after synthetic switch, and more issues in diff's after going to synthetic than those who stay with the normal (recommended stuff). Maybe it is due to not getting level correct or maybe it is due to synthetic leaking more, I am not sure, but that has just been my experience with the VX and making observations from who is having what problems on here. Just a little 2 cents, and know I will be sticking with the cheaper (recommended) fluids, except on the engine, always have gone synthetic there ;-)

VXR
06/01/2011, 09:32 PM
all I know is I have heard of more tranny's burning out after synthetic switch, and more issues in diff's after going to synthetic than those who stay with the normal (recommended stuff)

Where have you heard this;eekb;

I sure hope not I just switched to mobil 1 ATF and diff fluid last year:yesb:

WillyLin
06/02/2011, 01:17 AM
I remember on my trooper, on one bolt I used a breaker bar and then use a floor jack to jack it up loosen the bolt.. let the gravity do the work..

VX crazy
06/02/2011, 05:04 AM
Where have you heard this;eekb;

I sure hope not I just switched to mobil 1 ATF and diff fluid last year:yesb:

I think the rational behind this is that synthetics clean better, and could possible break up any buildup and that would cause a problem.......

VXR
06/02/2011, 11:28 PM
I think the rational behind this is that synthetics clean better, and could possible break up any buildup and that would cause a problem.......

I did it at under 40k and did the filter too so should be ok:yesb:

pbkid
06/03/2011, 09:37 AM
Fyi, im pretty sure the vx diffs are aluminum (i know the plugs are). You really should never have to tighten a fill plug that much, its pretty much there to keep fluids from splashing out and keep dirt from getting in. for some reason people commonly over tighten fill plugs, theres no reason for it. Just hand tighten with a short rachet, thats all it needs. Snug it, then add that little tiny bit past that.

Ldub
06/03/2011, 02:48 PM
Fyi, im pretty sure the vx diffs are aluminum (i know the plugs are). You really should never have to tighten a fill plug that much, its pretty much there to keep fluids from splashing out and keep dirt from getting in. for some reason people commonly over tighten fill plugs, theres no reason for it. Just hand tighten with a short rachet, thats all it needs. Snug it, then add that little tiny bit past that.

I think you're thinking of the transfer case Jack, the F&R diffs are steel.

Mile High VX
06/01/2014, 06:46 PM
Can I use 75W - 140 in both front and rear or should I use 75W-140 in the rear and 75W-90 in the front? I used the two different weights when I did it last time.

Thanks for the help! :bwgy::smilewink:bgwb::bgwo:

VXCanada
06/09/2014, 10:51 AM
Check the owners manual or the workshop manual available here for download.

Depending on the ambient temperature of your area you should use the recommended weight. Make sure to also use an LSD additive for the rear.

I'm using Amsoil Synthetic 80W90 for front and rear with additive in the rear. http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/gear-lube/synthetic-80w-90-gear-lube/?code=AGLQT-EA

T.

Marlin
06/09/2014, 05:41 PM
X2 on the jack trick. I have broken many bolts loose with bottle jack or floor jack. It is slow, safe, and no bloody knuckles. As for the fluid, I have royal purple, no problems, front locker still works like a champ, and I am sure I toasted my rear LSD years ago:)

Hades
06/09/2014, 11:30 PM
Never again will I have a dealer do a diff change, when I had my wrangler unlimited they charged me 460 dollars to do both, and it was done in 30 mins I looked at them flabbergasted and never went back!