My 85 SVO

[Bob Barker]

So I couldn't find the other thread I have on this car, but I wanted to share some progress I've made. The tuning is after finally getting in the new MegaSquirt ECU built for it. I waited 7 months for this thing! Driveability is a million times better now that I've tossed the old VAM and ecu. Tuning is done through a program called VE live, unique to MegaSquirt. It's an amazing program that adjusts fuel according to air flow to match a preset a/f ratio demanded. I can adjust manually to get it "close" and turn on VE live to let it perfect it. I've still got some boost control problems, and on the second manual boost valve I'm starting to think it's me not the valve! If I can get that figured out I'll be race ready!

So I have it all rattlecann'd and looking hokey! I'm cruisin around doing some tuning and it's making me happy, so I polished the headlights! Didn't help much at all.... maybe a little. I would really like to get new super clean head lights, and a new windshield (which will happen soon since it's free in FL!) and leave the paint lookin shabby. Kinda what I'm liking. I'll also probably lower the front soon and get some shorter springs for the rear. Front is on adjustable coilovers already.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/racing/SVO003.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/racing/SVO004.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/racing/SVO005.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/racing/SVO006.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/racing/SVO008.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/racing/SVO009.jpg

Interior is now where near done, but will be someday. I'll get pics of that when it's worth looking at. Outside will probably stay that way for a while other than the Greg Welds I've got once I get some wheels on them. I think they will look great.

[surf-life]

looking good! Im glad you decided not to put the "FORD" emblem back on the front, :P

[handeeman]

Oh yes "Men and their toys". I love projects but since I'm not much of a gear head they cost me a lot more to get done and I'm very slow in completing them cause of the dollar factor. ( note: see my "vice car" in my profile, however I am suppose to have it at the uplostery shop this coming week.) Anyway keep at it and I love the "sleeper look".

[VX KAT]

Oh yes "Men and their toys". I love projects but since I'm not much of a gear head they cost me a lot more to get done and I'm very slow in completing them cause of the dollar factor. ( note: see my "vice car" in my profile, however I am suppose to have it at the uplostery shop this coming week.) Anyway keep at it and I love the "sleeper look".

HANDEEEEEEEEEE!!!! DUDE!!!!!!!!!!!! Mike!!!!! Good to hear from you again!!!!!! :thumbup: We've missed your colorful commentary and rather "unique" humor!!!!!!!
Don't be such a stranger!

[VX KAT]

The tuning is after finally getting in the new MegaSquirt ECU built for it. I waited 7 months for this thing! Driveability is a million times better now that I've tossed the old VAM and ecu. Tuning is done through a program called VE live, unique to MegaSquirt.

OK, that's gotta be the worst product name I've heard in a long while....:goof:

[Bob Barker]

:haha:

If you imagine what it does, you would understand the name! It controls fuel/air/spark/timing and all that jazz! But yes I agree it's pretty... insinuating... to say the least!

[Bob Barker]

looking good! Im glad you decided not to put the "FORD" emblem back on the front, :P

Don't knock the blue oval! In 1985 this little bugger was cutting edge in turbo and fuel injection applications! It made more power than the over 2x larger 5.0 liter mustangs!

[Hotsauce]

Do I see a proper FMIC through the lower grill?

John C.

[RamAirZ]

Looking good John! Got any pics of the engine bay now? Megasquirt is an amazing set-up, and the support for it is top notch.

[Bob Barker]

Yes the FMIC is a real FMIC. Real big unit, nice 3" piping all the way through it. It's really well built too.

Dallas I've got some photos of the engine, but it's like a squirrel went in there and made a nest out of all the wires running every way! I really need to spend some time cleaning all that up, I got a real easy to read wiring diagram that I should use to remove all the non used wires... but I'm lazy about that stuff.

For now the focus is getting the boost to stay where I want it to be. If anyone has any way to test a manual boost controller please share!

[RamAirZ]

Real big unit
:laughing:


Dallas I've got some photos of the engine, but it's like a squirrel went in there and made a nest out of all the wires running every way! I really need to spend some time cleaning all that up, I got a real easy to read wiring diagram that I should use to remove all the non used wires... but I'm lazy about that stuff.

For now the focus is getting the boost to stay where I want it to be. If anyone has any way to test a manual boost controller please share!

You can do a boost leak test but your having problems with too much boost right? I feel ya on the wiring, one day your just going to wake up and say f' it, I'm getting this done lol. My '70 SS had a painless harness that had been butchered by the previous owner, I finally walked out one day and tore into it. If I lived closer I'd lend a hand, I'm weird, I love wiring lol.

[samneil2000]

Looking good. I like that car. Hope you get the boost squared away. How's the power output right now?

[Bob Barker]

It's hard to say on power output, but if boost were controlled where I wanted it, the injectors could flow enough fuel to creat around 300whp. That would be max on those though. To get beyond 300whp I would need to upgrade a few parts, the factory turbo will start to get in it's own way after around 22psi, the head won't flow and the factory cam won't rev past 5k, at least not make any power past that. I'd really like to get it to the track or on a dyno before upgrading all those parts as most people with these cars tend to quit on them before finding out what they can do, or blasting past all the factory parts for real big horsepower parts!

Dallas, it's overboosting not leaking it. The "real big unit" FMIC and piping are pretty good parts :haha:

There is some way to test the boost valve and wastegate opening with my air compressor, but I haven't firgured it out yet.

[Bob Barker]

One other thing that's bothering me from outside. The dang gas tank, all ugly and white and plain...

I've asked on other forums what people think about me ditching the gas tank and getting a fuel cell set up in the hatch area, since there isn't anything in there now. What do you guys think? Paint the factory fuel tank black, leave it alone and white, or remove it for a new shiney fuel cell inside the hatch? It's a purely asthetic mod as the factory tank I've already put in a larger pump that will flow enough fuel for a lot more power.

[RickOKC]

Hey Bob, hit that gas tank with some flat black paint. I always hated seeing the bright, bare metal of my mufflers exposed below the painted rear bumper cover on my Mustang. After I painted them with BBQ grille paint, they "disappeared" because they are under the car and almost always in the shadows. I don't even notice them any more.

[RickOKC]

OK, that's gotta be the worst product name I've heard in a long while....:goof:
I saw this penetrating spray at an auto parts store once... made me laugh!
http://members.cox.net/radamsokc/nuts-off.jpg

[Bob Barker]

Got you both beat!
It's called DeezNutz, and it's a lotion/anti friction cream for your... nuts... in cycling shorts!
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/product-accessories/2011-dz-nuts-nuts-high-viscosity-chamois-cream-5094.330.1.html

Anyhow, I will probably just paint the tank black, but I really would like to have the extra cash and know how of plumbing a fuel cell and braided lines into the hatch and getting rid of that funky tank.

[VX KAT]

Got you both beat!
It's called DeezNutz, and it's a lotion/anti friction cream for your... nuts... in cycling shorts!
http://www.competitivecyclist.com/product-accessories/2011-dz-nuts-nuts-high-viscosity-chamois-cream-5094.330.1.html


Yur right...that one wins, hands down!

[Triathlete]

DeezNutz is good stuff if you ride a lot!:yesy:
Butt Butter is a close 2nd.

[Triathlete]

OK, that's gotta be the worst product name I've heard in a long while....:goof:

Not if your a porn star!:bwgy:

[Bob Barker]

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/racing/th_VIDEO0006.jpg (http://s127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/racing/?action=view&current=VIDEO0006.mp4)

Click the pic if you want to see and hear it moving down the interstate. Don't mind the cracked windshield, white drivers door inner, poor flooring, gauge cluster that fell out of the dash and missing steering wheel cover! :haha:

It's loud, real loud, going down the interstate, almost enough to drown out the wastegate opening.

[Cobrajet]

The dash is almost the same as my '82, right down to the 85Mph speedometer. Of, course, I've NEVER had my GT over 85, so it really doesn't matter...right??

Officer: "Do you know how fast you were going?"
Me: "No clue!"

(Not fast enough, obviously!)

[Bob Barker]

There were only a few variations on the dashes for several years. The SVO's had some kind of fuzzy crap on the dash that, thankfully, has long worn off of my car! Other foxes had a really space aged grid-paper sticker overlay on them :laugho:

[Bob Barker]

Wife may leave me after this afternoon...

I've had these Greg Welds sitting in the garage for a couple years, and just ordered some MT ET street radials for them and got them mounted.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/racing/IMAG0096.jpg
26" tire, hope it fits!

and this thing
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/racing/IMAG0091.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/racing/IMAG0098.jpg
It's a lot larger than the stock turbo, and I'm concerned about it fitting on the Stinger header I have now...

[RamAirZ]

ooooooo, pretty :)

[Bob Barker]

I want to polish that compressor housing, what do I use? A grinding wheel, wire brush, something else? I've got access to those tools at work and could get it done tonight. It's a cast aluminum piece.

[RamAirZ]

http://www.ehow.com/how_5845906_polish-cast-aluminum.html

[Bob Barker]

Got the drag wheels on. I had wheel spacers on the fronts and took those off so the skinnies would tuck in more, then found the rear wheels were rubbing the breaks as expected, so I put the spacers on there. It cleared the brakes but now the stick out extra T4B style :laughb:. I don't like it so I'll have to take the rears off and get a grinder on them.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/racing/IMAG0115.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/racing/IMAG0113.jpg
Here I've lowered the front adjustable coil overs some, it's hard to tell, but it's about an inch, maybe a little more lower.
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/racing/IMAG0116.jpg

[RamAirZ]

Love the look man! Turning out good!

[tom4bren]

It cleared the brakes but now the stick out extra T4B style :laughb:.

Not even close ... but nice try.

What's all the excitement about ... 'it's just a Mustang'

Sorry, it had to be said ... I say it about 10 times a day when Boy (my son) points out every out every one he finds on Craigslist within a 300 mile radius.

[Bob Barker]

There's more to a Mustang than just a Mustang! I've taken everything off this car with my own bloody knuckles and put it all back like I wanted it, mostly... and mine is a step more from that, it's a 4cyl that will run circles on most factory cars, and can corner too! (not with these wheels though)

You should get Boy a mustang, a really really crappy one, with a 2.3n/a engine, and hahve him eco mod it! I know a guy with a 2.3 notch from '88 that got 41mpg on a recen 600+ mile road trip. It would be a great opportunity to learn autos and they are dirt cheap too!

[tom4bren]

Just rattling yer cage son. Mustang's are fine for people who can't handle a real car.:)

He had a 4 banger Stang that sat for 2 years before giving it away. I told Boy last year that if he got straight A's on his report card that I'd get him his own VX ... he's still borrowing mine (OK, maybe my logic is a little flawed there).

He needs to learn the practical side of vehicle maintenance before he starts dreaming of a street rod. It would just be wrong on so many levels for the kid to drive a hotter car than me & since I drive an 03 Eclipse ...

[RamAirZ]

....that would be easy

[tom4bren]

Source considered ... ignored (Mr Ex VX, now I just drive a Honda)

[RamAirZ]

LOL and you drive an eclipse, so you lose some of your VX street cred. And the Honda is just a toy :)

[tom4bren]

I have no response to that.

[RamAirZ]

That's right!

[tom4bren]

Except 100 miles per day * 5 days a week * price of go juice = I'm keeping the 'Clipse for DD.

[JAMAS]

LOL and you drive an eclipse, so you lose some of your VX street cred....

Hey! I resemble that remark...:)

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/Spyder2.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13103)

[RamAirZ]

hahaha nice, I'm just joshin. I'm an American Muscle guy but have respect for anything built right. I've seen some sweet Eclipse/Talon's before and always wanted to build a 2nd gen Talon, I thought the "teeth" in the grille were sweet lol. Right now we have a diverse stable, GMC Sierra, Toyota Camry, Honda Passport and a '68 Mustang Fastback.

[Bob Barker]

Well I've got the new wastegate on and it's doing it's job but I the darn drag wheels are rubbing the brakes, even after I've ground them down as much as I feel safe doing so. So now I need suggestions on what I can do to clear the factory brakes. Aren't there low profile calipers made specifically for drag racing? I've googled and not found much yet... I don't really want any more spacers on it.

[Triathlete]

Check Rebco Outlaw and Wilwood for low pro calipers.

[RamAirZ]

Aerospace Components also has a low profile brake system. Are the front brakes the issue here?

[Bob Barker]

It's the rears, fronts clear easily, although I did hear a little clunking when making a u-turn. I'll investigate what that was, but for now the rear brakes are the focus as I don't really want to go back to the factory wheels.

[RamAirZ]

How much did you grind off?

[Bob Barker]

I didn't measure how much, but "a lot" seems about right! I'm going to put the factory wheels back on for now so I can drive it around at least. I bought a polishing kit from Eastwood that should be in soon, so I can at least polish the factory parts while I figure out what I'm doing with the brakes. I've been looking through Wilwood, but can't figure where they sell just a low profile caliper that will fit my factory parts and clear the wheels.

[RamAirZ]

hhmm, some guys said they ground off up to 1/4" on the calipers to fit the wheels. switch to drums :)

[Bob Barker]

Hell no! fkn drums are stone age tech, I'd rather drive daily on drag disks than drums. Just don't like them at all.

I'll get the grinder again and take of a little more, I don't think I've removed 1/4" yet on the one spot that's grinding on both wheels. (It's the same spot on either caliper hitting the inside of the wheels)

[Bob Barker]

I got exhaust pipes in for a DIY at home job. I don't really know how it's gonna sound, I hope good!

New 4" diameter flex pipe, then a Y w/ cutout, couple 45* bends and the race bullet that I polished. I don't know if I want to mount it to where the muffler shows outside the car or not... Might be better tucked under some.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/racing/IMAG0210.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/racing/IMAG0211.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/racing/IMAG0208.jpg
http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/racing/IMAG0209.jpg

And yes, it is propped up in place with my old turbo housings! I didn't have anything else to do with them. :lmao:

I'll be on vacation next week so plan is to get it trimmed to fit, one of the last 45* pipes needs a few inches taken off for the muffler to clear the back tire, or if I leave it all under the car then I won't need to trim any and just get them welded, then put a couple hangars on there and it's set. If I leave it under the car then I think I can probably use the holes in the floor board from the rear seat mounts and seatbelts to put a hangar for the muffler, then I'll want to put one near the end of the flex pipe as well.

[Bob Barker]

I think I may have a busted rear main seal now. I started it this morning after sitting for a while and after idle for a few minutes I crawled under it to find a MASSIVE amount of oit on the garage floor.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p127/jonbradley_photos/racing/IMAG0232.jpg

[samneil2000]

ewwww

[RamAirZ]

That doesn't look like a surprise main seal leak, have you checked your turbo feed lines? That's alot of oil, was there a leak before?

[Bob Barker]

suprise main seal? No leak whatsoever before. In fact the last "leak" I had was the old turbo seals were leaking into the hotside causing it to smoke on heavy acceleration. Fixed that with a new turbo. What are the chances I might have damaged a gasket when I was testing last time before the new waste gate went on and over boosted? It was dry under the car for the 3 weeks it sat in the garage.

Both oil lines are dry at the connection points. The feed line was a little oily in the middle where it runs close to the block, also the engine grounding cable that comes off the valve cover to the fire wall was pretty saturated with oil as well. Maybe a valve cover gasket?

When I was crawling around under the car I noticed the oil seemed to be heaviest above the starter, near the back of the block where the transmission mounts to the engine. That's why I thought rear main seal. I'm hoping it's something simple like the valve cover gasket, as I need a reason to take that off and repaint it anyhow!

[Bob Barker]

I replaced the starter solenoid, had the starter tested at parts store, and checked all the cables to and from solenoid. Everything looked good, ran good, past test...


I tried the multimeter on the solenoid and had my wife turn the key, got 12v at the positive battery post on the solenoid, got 11-10v on the post that leads to starter motor, and got 9v on the ignition post. I don't know if that test did any good at all, but that's all I know to do with it now. I even took the battery out of my truck and put in the SVO, and the SVO battery into the truck and the truck started fine. The SVO had the same symptoms as with the original battery in it. I'm completely lost now with no idea which way to go from here. Help please!

[Bob Barker]

FOUND IT! WOOHOO!

The grounding strap from the bock to the firewall isn't doing it's job, I am thinking it must have gotten coated with oil and when cranking last time must have built some gunk under there and lost conntection somehow. I put a wire from a heder primary to the strap going to firewall and it cranked first try. I'm so happy!

I also got to find the oil leak, there is a small hole in the turbo feed line that litterally SHOOTS oil out when running. New feed line on order now, and hopefully will be here by end of the week.