Remote Popper - IT WORKS!!

[Raque Thomas]

I've posted about this in a couple different threads, but FINALLY got the popper to work with the remote correctly, and not open with the door lock button driving down the highway. Here's how it works now: if the key is off, or out of the car, the second press of the remote will open the rear hatch - as will pressing the unlock button on either door (easy access - no key? press door unlock button). With the key in the run position, the power door lock buttons on the doors will not open the hatch, only the button in the glove box will open it (that way if the car is running, but sitting still you can open the hatch).

Went in search of a diode, but I was told that a diode to withstand that wattage would be the size of a coke bottle! So I worked with an alarm installer at the shop and he drew up the diagram - worked like a charm. Used a $6 relay (by Directed Electronics P/N 610T - 30 amp). I don't know how to get the diagram posted here, but if anyone is interested, send me your address and I'll mail you a copy. If you'd like me to get a relay, I'll do that also.

If you have good imagination - I'll describe it here:
Pin 86 hooks to a second ignition wire (ign on) - I tapped the cigarette lighter wire coming out of the fuse block.
Pin 87 takes the feed out from the popper switch in the glove box
Pin 85 goes to ground
Pin 87A goes to the second lt grn/blk wire coming out of the remote relay behind the drivers kick panel
Pin 30 goes to the popper solenoid

Now I've got to find another project!! :D

[omegavx]

Hey send me that diagram (admin@etmnet.com) or if you want to fax it to me tomorrow just pm and we can do that.

[transVXmen]

Steve Eum...5350 biloxi ave, north hollywood, CA 91601...please send me a diagram..much thanks!

[Raque Thomas]

Steve, I sent it to you today.

[omegavx]

Sorry it took me so long to post. I had to work on a project most of the morning. I'll probably get mine all wired up this weekend. BTW, any chance you got it so the rear door wouldn't fire when you unlock the doors from the "door console"?

http://www.etmnet.com/~admin/vx/images/popper_wire_diagram.gif

[Raque Thomas]

When wired as shown, the door panel unlock switches will open the trunk ONLY if the key is off or out of the vehicle. I like this feature, because I can open either door and just hit the switch to pop the trunk.

If the key is in the run position, the door panel switches still operate the door locks but NOT the trunk. The only thing that will open the trunk while the car is running is the switch in the glove box.

So, car off - second press on remote, or door panel switches unlock the trunk. Car on - glove box switch only.

One thing a little misleading about my diagram above is the section showing the "door relay". The third wire down (lt grn/blk) shows going to the two door unlock solenoids and being split close to the doors. Actually, the passenger door lt grn/blk wire was originally attached to the bottom output on this relay. I cut it there and spliced into the top lt grn/blk wire right by the relay, then hooked that bottom wire to the new relay on pin 87A. Hope that's not too confusing!! :confused: It's actually a quick job, all the wires you need to splice and hook to are right there on the left side of the car. Took me less than 30 min, even with repeated tests and admiration time of my work :D

[etlsport]

is there a specific type of relay i would need to make this work? i plan on installing the popper kit this weekend and REALLY want to do this mod, but dont really know much about relays

[Raque Thomas]

I used a 30 amp relay that I picked up from a stereo shop. It's not special, just make sure it can gandle enough amps.

[SkidPlate]

You need a Single Pole, Double Throw (SPDT) 30 amp relay.

It is eaisest if you get one with a wiring socket.

Like Raque said, any stereo/alarm shop should carry these.

Here is a 10-pack SPDT with sockets (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/10-PACK-30-40-AMP-RELAY-SOCKET-SPDT-12V-BOSCH-STYLE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6779QQihZ009QQite mZ190044954460QQrdZ1)on eBay.

[etlsport]

haha this install is not going nearly as smooth as id hoped.. could someone give a description of where to find the door relay? i was down there and couldnt find an orange wire down there, or lt green/black, maybe im looking in the wrong place? does it come out of the alarm?

[etlsport]

finally got it.. for anyone trying to do this in the future.. the door relay is located in the drivers side foot well behind the kick panel

[MSHardeman]

I know that I'm dredging this up from the depths of long ago, but I am trying to do this little mod so that I can open the rear door with the stock Isuzu remote.

I have the wiring diagram printed out and I'm ready to install the new relay for the popper, but I can't figure out which relay under the drivers side kick panel is the door lock relay. When you take the panel off there are three relays stacked on top of each other. Does anyone know which one is the door relay?

etlsport, I see that you where the last one to post on this regarding the location of the relay so do you remember which relay is which?

Thanks for the help.

[Knigh7s]

Hmm, this sounds interesting, can I get a copy of this diagram? My email is in my profile.

[Y33TREKker]

...When you take the panel off there are three relays stacked on top of each other. Does anyone know which one is the door relay?...
In manual pics, it looks like the door lock relay is actually below those three black relays. Down at floor level, there are three (possibly more) white electrical harness connectors with foam wrapped around them. Most have male-female connections, but it looks like one of them is just a connector plugged into a relay. That one is the door lock relay.

---------

I'd be interested in a copy of that wiring diagram too if you get a chance Raque.

[MSHardeman]

Hmmm...saw the foam covered connectors and figured that they where for the doors. Didn't see a relay, but then again I wasn't looking for one down there. I'll head down and take a closer look and report back.

I see two white foam covered connectors and one foam covered metal cylinder with a white connector. Is the metal cylinder the relay? I've never seen one like that and I guess the reason that I didn't pay attention to it earlier was because I was looking for a black plastic cube shaped relay (like all of the others that I've seen). The cylinder does have the correct number and color wires coming out of it so I'm guessing that's it. Thanks Y33!

Also, I would totally upload the diagram, but I just have a print out from a while ago and I don't think that I saved an electronic copy of it. I'll look around, but hopefully someone else has it and can get it uploaded.

[Raque Thomas]

Sorry guys, my computer crashed & burned, so I lost the diagram - trying to slave the old hard drive, if I'm able to recover it over the next few days, I'll send it to you. The description in my origianl post may help you, particularly if you have a wiring diagram handy. Also, the guy that bought my car may still have the original diagram - I'll email him & see.

[Y33TREKker]

... I see two white foam covered connectors and one foam covered metal cylinder with a white connector. Is the metal cylinder the relay? I've never seen one like that and I guess the reason that I didn't pay attention to it earlier was because I was looking for a black plastic cube shaped relay (like all of the others that I've seen). The cylinder does have the correct number and color wires coming out of it so I'm guessing that's it. Thanks Y33!
I'm sure that's it. While it did look cylindricly shaped in the picture, I couldn't tell for sure because of the angle the picture was taken so I didn't mention it. Now we know though.

[MSHardeman]

Did all of the wiring on this little project, but as usual, it doesn't seem to want to work for me. I got it so that both front doors unlock with one push of the button, but the second push doesn't do anything. Also, pushing the unlock button on the doors doesn't do bupkis, and when I push the door release button on the dash the dome light comes on, but the door doesn't unlock.

I've always had bad luck with automotive wiring, because things never seem to work right the first time. I have the rear door popper wired into a stock Isuzu door release button, and I ran an extra wire from the pin at the rear door to light up the "door ajar" light. I think this posed problems from the beginning because if one of the doors where open, and the door ajar light was on, pushing the door release button did nothing. If the doors where closed, or if I held the trigger for the dome light down, the rear door would work fine. I'm hoping that this has something to do with the new set up not working. I'm going to remove the wire from the rear pin to the door ajar light and double check my wiring to the new relay. Hopefully that will fix everything.

I'll report back later.

[swift16]

Hey could you please send me that diagram; email is fbarcelona16@live.com, many thanks.

[etlsport]

what door ajar light are you talking about? from the pin switch in the rear of my VX I ran it to a green and red wire along the passenger side door sill

when i first installed my popper the big problem i had is that the power to my relay just was not sufficient.. i wound up having to run a wire straight from the battery to the relay, i will see if i can find the diagram i used

[MSHardeman]

On the stock Isuzu tailgate release button there is a light on the bottom of the button that is supposed to light up when the tailgate is open so you have a visual cue telling you that it is ajar.

I wired the original door popper per Tone's instructions, but I ran a second wire from the pin switch at the rear door (that is tied into the wire for the light at the passenger door sill) so that the "door ajar" indicator light on the button would light up. The problem with that is when the ajar light is on it deactivates the button, so that if ANY of the doors are open I can't use the tailgate release button. I'm no electrician, and as far as car wiring goes, if it isn't spelled out for me and I try and add-lib it then it probably won't work. I think I'm going to try and disconnect the wire from the pin switch at the rear door to the ajar light and see if that clears some stuff up.

If you have any kind of diagram that worked for you I would much appreciate it, even if you just spell it out (but pictures are usually better for me).

[etlsport]

its been a while, so im having some trouble remembering exactly what i did... i have friday off, so ill get down there and do some investigating if its not too cold

mine will be a little different from yours though because i dont have the stock isuzu tailgate switch, i have a small momentary switch that i use instead

[MSHardeman]

I wanted to resurrect this thread because a couple of people where asking about hooking up the rear door popper so it releases with an after market alarm. As you can see from above, Raque Thomas figured out how to wire the door popper in so that the stock Isuzu key fob would release it. The link to his wiring diagram is broken, so I used a printed version of the original thread that I had lying around and I CADded it up so everyone could have it if they would like to do this mod.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/VX_Door_Popper_Wiring_Diagram-Model.jpg

I started this mod, but my wiring behind the dash is a little screwy thanks to the PO, so this is half done right now. It's wired now so that both doors unlock with one press of the key fob button, but I haven't wired the new relay in yet so that the second press opens the rear door. I'll get back to it soon though.

Here's how it should work, according to Raque:
"When wired as shown, the door panel unlock switches will open the trunk ONLY if the key is off or out of the vehicle. I like this feature because I can open either door and just hit the switch to pop the trunk.

If the key is in the run position, the door panel switches still operate the door locks but NOT the trunk. The only thing that will open the trunk while the car is running is the switch in the glove box.

So, car off - second press on the remote, or door panel switches unlock the trunk. Car on - glove box switch only."

Enjoy.

[RallyDude]

I use the key in mine. Works every time.

[MSHardeman]

Dragging this up again. I know many of you have been waiting on pins and needles to see how this turned out. :rolleyes:

I FINALLY got this to work!! NO, I haven't been working on it since my last post. Stepped away from it for a while, then recently got the bug to give it another shot. Had a few wrinkles due to the fact that the wiring under my dash is a little different due to the previous owner, and I am using the stock Isuzu Tailgate Release button.

So you don't have to read through everything:

With the key out of the VX (and it's armed), one press of the disarm button unlocks both the driver and passenger door. Two presses of the disarm button triggers the rear door popper.

With the key out of the VX pressing the unlock button on either door will also trigger the rear door popper. In eiter of these scenarios the Tailgate Release button will NOT trigger the rear door popper.

With the key in the VX and turned to run, neither the key fob, nor the door unlock buttons will trigger the rear door popper, but the Tailgate Release button in the dash will.

If you want to give this a shot, it's really pretty easy to do and I'd be happy to walk anyone through it.

[etlsport]

Glad you got it working, sorry I hadn't had a chance to sit and figure out what was going on. What ended up being the issue?

[ojmagg]

@ MSHardeman...I'd be interested to know how you wired up this setup with the TGate factory switch. I could never get it to work properly

ojmagg@yahoo.com

[MSHardeman]

etlsport and ojmagg, it ended up being the factory tailgate switch itself. If you hook the output from the factory switch into the new five post relay per Raque's instructions the switch allows enough voltage to pass through (verified by my volt meter), but it must not allow enough amperage through to trigger the solenoid at the tail gate.

I am no electrical guy AT ALL, so it took me a little while, and some reading up on how/what a relay does, to work through this. Right now my stock release button is wired through a four post relay, and from what I am finding out when you press the button a small current goes to the relay and "trips" it allowing a higher current to pass through the other side of the relay and triggering the solenoid. What I finally figured out was that I needed to wire the high current output from the four post relay (which would normally go back to the solenoid) into the input from the release button in the new five post relay on Raque's diagram. I'm sure that's not confusing at all. :_wtf:

I would be happy to draw up the new wiring diagram and post it up or send it to anyone who would like to try this. I'd also be happy to talk anyone through it. Just shoot me a pm with a phone number and we'll have a popper party.:dance:

[ojmagg]

If you could post up the wiring diagram, that would be good...

[yellowgizmo99]

X2 on that diagram.

[Knigh7s]

x3 on that diagram!

I'm in the middle of working on this and it looks like this is what I'm looking for!

[MSHardeman]

Sorry y'all, forgot about this. I will pull all of my wiring diagrams together, CAD 'em up and try to post them up in the next couple of days.

Knigh7s, if you need to talk through this sooner, PM me your number and I'll give you a call.

[Knigh7s]

Thanks, but I'm still waiting for a few more parts in the mail. So no rush here...

I ordered a waterproof switch that will be wired to the little handgrip (cup?) on the back door. So my main question would be, if the alarm is armed, would the button whether it is installed inside or out, be disengaged?

[etlsport]

Depends on how you wire it in... If you wire it how the normal switch would work, it will only work with key in ignition.


Ive thought about this a few times(how to put a switch in the handle that is secure)


The only things I have come up with are:


tie the relay in with the dome light bulb (instead of ignition)
Pro- when you press the unlock button on the remote the switch is active for 30sec.
If you jump out to grab something and leave the front door open the switch will still be active
Con- the switch wont work if you shut all doors, run inside and come back unless you arm/disarm the alarm.
The dome light drops to 6v during the dimming process. This makes most relays buzz during the dimming process.




Get aftermarket remote light system (like for offroad lights) and wire the output into the relay

Pro- you can turn the switch on and off.
You could wire a second output to hold the door unlocked (very useful on hills)
Con- you need 2 remotes
You could forget to disable the switch
If you activate the switch but dont disarm the alarm, tou will set off the alarm

[MSHardeman]

Sorry for the delay, but I finally got the new wiring diagram drawn up. I hope it's clear enough, but if you have any questions let me know.

I've lived with it this way for a few weeks now, and it's pretty cool to be able to walk up to the VX, push the disarm button on the remote a couple of times and have to door pop open for you.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/Rear_Door_Popper_Wiring_Diagram.jpg

[Knigh7s]

AWESOME!!!

I would assume this is what the diagram entails? :)
(scroll down for another question! :) )


With the key out of the VX (and it's armed), one press of the disarm button unlocks both the driver and passenger door. Two presses of the disarm button triggers the rear door popper.

With the key out of the VX pressing the unlock button on either door will also trigger the rear door popper. In eiter of these scenarios the Tailgate Release button will NOT trigger the rear door popper.

With the key in the VX and turned to run, neither the key fob, nor the door unlock buttons will trigger the rear door popper, but the Tailgate Release button in the dash will.

If you want to give this a shot, it's really pretty easy to do and I'd be happy to walk anyone through it.


Sorry for the delay, but I finally got the new wiring diagram drawn up. I hope it's clear enough, but if you have any questions let me know.

I've lived with it this way for a few weeks now, and it's pretty cool to be able to walk up to the VX, push the disarm button on the remote a couple of times and have to door pop open for you.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/Rear_Door_Popper_Wiring_Diagram.jpg

Also, I'm scratching my head, because this is pretty new to me, would anyone know how to deactivate the switch if the alarm is on? Etl touched on it a bit, but I'm not really liking the "cons" to much! :p Reason being, I'm installing a waterproof switch on the exterior like the newer vehicles these days.

I'm thinking, if I tied in another relay that will completely cut off power to the whole setup when armed, but where would that relay go?

[etlsport]

You might be able to find a relay that has a normally closed contact and then ooens when power is applied (or a double throw might work) then you could tap into the alarm somewhere, but not sure where, the alarm indicator maybe but im guessing that is not constant since the led flashes.

Jack (pbkid) knows more about alarms than most, maybe he can shed some light on constant outputs from an alarm

[MSHardeman]

Knigh7s, that is what the diagram entails:

Key out; rear popper works by either pressing the unlock button on the stock Isuzu remote twice, or pressing the unlock button on either door.

Key in (and on); rear popper works by pressing the tailgate release button

Depending on the load that your new external button can handle, you may need a relay no matter what. You could do another five post relay that has constant power when the alarm isn't on, but when the alarm is activated it would throw the relay and cut power to the external button...... I just have no idea how to achieve that.

Like etl said, you would need to find some constant on power coming from the alarm system somewhere.:_confused

[Knigh7s]

Im pulling the wire diagrams off the cd's now... I'll look into it and let everyone know... There has got to be something... Maybe right before the LED flash module... or something...

[ojmagg]

Very nice!

One question...where is the best place to tie into the light green/black wire from the door relay (for the connection to 87a on the new relay) ?

[MSHardeman]

ojmagg, everything that you need to access is right in the drivers side kick panel. The connections for the door lock relay, as well as all of the wiring for the locks themselves are all right there and I cut into the light green/black wire right near the relay. I would be happy to take a picture of my wiring if it would help you out.

[Daly]

First post here mentioned glove box release for rear door. I do not seem to have this in my glove box.
Was this standard with the vehicle, where should it be in glove box?

[ojmagg]

Hopefully, this will do it...I started getting all my wiring laid out last night...

Thanks again!

[MSHardeman]

Daly, a rear door release was NOT standard equipment on the VX. All of us here are talking about an aftermarket tail gate popper that we have installed/ will install. I got mine from Tone when he was selling them before he passed away. Some people have cobbled together the parts for their own tail gate popper, or ordered a universal fit one from another source.

In Tone's instructions he talked about locating the tail gate release button, that he provided in his kit, in the glove box. I ended up using a stock Isuzu tail gate release button and located in on a panel from a Rodeo that fits in the "fuzzy hole" area in the VX.

[Mile High VX]

I've got mine hooked into my alarm as well. Love the "trunk" button on the remote when loading stuff in the back without having to get into the VX.

One question...does your OEM switch illuminate when your headlights are on? I've never been able to solve this since I installed it.

Thanks.

[MSHardeman]

Earl, originally I had the wire for the open indicator light hooked up to the pin switch that turns the interior lights on when the back door is open, but it somehow cancelled out the button. When the open indicator light was on the switch wouldn't work, so if I had my drivers door open (the dome light would come on) the button wouldn't trigger the popper. I just disconnected it from the pin switch at the back door and now it works just fine. I think if I put a second pin switch back there I could use the open indicator light.

Anyway, the open indicator light does come on now when I press the button, but goes off when I release the button. Sounds like you have the on indicator pin in the back of the switch connected to something that comes on when the headlights are on. Did you wire it into one of the other switches in the dash?

[Mile High VX]

No pin...my question is that when your headlights are on does the OEM switch illuminate?

Mine is just a dark switch at night with no illumination like the other switches.

[MSHardeman]

AH, got it. Sorry for the long winded answer before.

My switch does light up. The bulb in yours is probably burned out. Have to get the switch out to replace the bulbs. They are really tiny, and you can replace them with some LED's if you would like.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fspecs%2FNEO.htm

The base of the bulbs looks like a phillips head screw, and I'm pretty sure they are on the side of the body of the switch.

[ojmagg]

Mind taking a picture of your kick panel wiring...found a light green black stripe wire, but it's not working...also do I connect the 2 relays to 87 or 87a to 87?

[MSHardeman]

I don't know how much these will help, but here are a couple of shots of my wiring behind the kick panel. I can barely make heads or tails of this and I know what I'm looking at. If you give me a little bit of time I'll try to get these into photoshop and note them up.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/Popper_Wiring_02.JPG
Close-up of the Isuzu relay and the plugs for the two doors. The Isuzu relay is in the foreground wrapped in foam.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/Popper_Wiring_10.JPG
A better overall shot. The two new relays are kind of head-to-head. One is right side up, the other is upside down and they are both held in by the same bolt.

[MSHardeman]

Mind taking a picture of your kick panel wiring...found a light green black stripe wire, but it's not working...also do I connect the 2 relays to 87 or 87a to 87?

I'm not quite sure if I understand the question about the relays. You actually connect one relay to the other so that when you push the button on the dash it opens the first relay and allows the higher voltage signal to make it to the second relay, which then triggers the solenoid. Confused yet?:_huh:

I'd be happy to call and talk you through this. Have the diagram handy and we can figure it out.

[ojmagg]

That helps....but the indicator light is always on...maybe my pin switch is grounding out...

Do I need the relays connect on post 87 (the diagram arrows say they do, but the wording says 87a to 87...)

[MSHardeman]

That helps....but the indicator light is always on...maybe my pin switch is grounding out...

Do I need the relays connect on post 87 (the diagram arrows say they do, but the wording says 87a to 87...)

Not sure what is going on with the pin switch. I ended up not using mine because I have the pin switch for the rear door connected to the wiring for the pin switches in the other two doors so that my dome light comes on when the rear door is open. I think I posted this before, but for some reason, when the indicator light on the switch is lit it nullifies the switch. That way when one of my doors was open, the indicator light would come on because the dome light was on, and the switch wouldn't work to open the rear door.

Actually you connect post 87 of the four post relay to post 87a of the five post relay (per the diagram). That way the high voltage/wattage output from the four post relay connects into the second relay to power the popper.

I hope this makes sense, because when I read back through it, it sounds like complete bunk.

[ojmagg]

Cool...you prob did post it before...I've a bit of ADD...crystal clear now, thanks for beating a dead horse!

[MSHardeman]

No prob. That's what we're all here for; to help each other out.....and get in some good natured ribbing every now and then.

Let me know how it works out.

[ojmagg]

So...I have the Tgate switch working...but, the 2nd press of the fob does not activate the popper. Could it be the Realays? My 4 post is 40 Amps and the 5 post is 30 Amps...I know the connections are correct...

[dougyfresh]

Hi, New to the site, just finishing a rebuild and want to add the rear release for sure, please send diaagram to richardrieckatattdotnet or fax to 847-949-7605. thanks Rich

[MSHardeman]

Rich, I can't find the schematic that I drew on my computer. It might be at work, but for now you can check out post number 35 in this thread:

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showpost.php?p=256814&postcount=35

You may already know this, but just in case; the VX did not come with a tailgate release. I installed the rear door popper and tailgate release button in mine, and then figured out the wiring to trigger the rear door popper with the second push of the unlock button on the stock Isuzu key fob.

Let me know if I can help out in any way.