Aluminum Radiator

[newthings]

I have not needed additional cooling since I moved to Oregon, but I had this nice prototype radiator I had built some years back and finally decided to make the upgrade.

The Ron Davis Vehicross aluminum radiator was copied from an after market stock radiator supplied to Ron Davis Racing. The build sheet is 5225, for reference.

The core thickness is increased to 2”. (Like a 4 tube copper core)

The plan was to omit the stock clutch fan. A dual fan shroud was fabricated. An electric dual fan controller must be added. Two different diameter and thickness fans are used to fit side by side and maximize the fan cross section. By chance, the larger fan diameter, with a deeper larger motor, was located on the driver side. This conflicts with my S/C idler pulley and belt path. Without the S/C, it might fit. We rotated the shroud 180 degrees and put the smaller thinner fan opposite the S/C idler pulley and it just touched. Still no good.
BTW, If the stock fan is removed, ¼” spacers must be used on the four fan studs with nuts, since the studs are not fully threaded. The studs hold on the water pump drive pulley.

My installation cannot use the new fan shroud and electric fans until the shroud is modified to reduce the overall thickness.
In the end, the stock fan was used without any shroud. This is not the best. The stock, or any fan, will pull air from the easiest direction, which is not through the radiator. A shroud forces the fan to pull air through the fins.

Two threaded holes in the top of the tank (Facing up) are used for a hold down bracket. A proper bracket must still be fabricated

The current bracket uses the one of the stock radiator frame holes nearest the radiator and one of the two holes on the top of the radiator. A rubber “Snapper” vibration mounts are snapped around the new bracket. This is a muffler attachment part.

Car Prep-
Cut off two small screw ends on the right and left of the radiator. They are about 3” down from the top. Use an abrasive wheel. These screw ends would rub on the radiator front side edges.

Remove the adhesive taped rubber strips on the radiator cross frame at the top. Re-tape and replace after the installation. This spaces the radiator from touching the steel frame.

Dent the hood liner, if required, to clear the radiator cap. The revised design will have a lower neck than my prototype.

I used two new rubber-mounting biscuits at the bottom. The 10-year-old biscuits were still soft, so replacements were not needed.

Use a ¼” nylon wire retainer on the OEM trans fluid pipe as it crosses the bottom radiator tank. A bolt boss is provided.

The wire bundles on both sides, low near the radiator, must be pulled to the side to clear.

On the passenger side, an unused bracket, low next to the radiator, is removed with two bolts. This is next to the lower hose tube.

The top and bottom radiator hoses must be shortened (Cut back) about ½” to ¾” due to the thicker core. If not, the hose is pushed against the engine.

Inspect for any contact points after installation. Aluminum is soft.

Install the stock plastic fan shroud if using the stock fan. The shroud assembles from top and bottom parts. The Ron Davis redesign will have threaded bosses in a position to bolt on the plastic shroud in two places on the top and have slots in two places at the bottom. These mounting points are the same for the aluminum shroud.



Required Mods to the Ron Davis Radiator Prototype -

I have sent Ron Davis these revised specs.

Lower the fill neck ¼” or more. The cap ear hits the hood and requires a dent in the hood liner to clear.

The driver’s side auto trans fitting is currently (Original RD design) a M14x1.00. This is wrong and not OEM. The after market radiator used for a fabrication model had a non-OEM fitting and got copied incorrectly. The correct male threaded fitting with flair bevel, is an M14x1.50. This fitting is required to mate to the OEM brass fitting and 90 degree tube that routes the trans fluid inlet next to the outlet. (Both are hose barbed) The trans fluid outlet is an SAE ¼ female pipe thread boss on the passenger side. Ron Davis supplies an aluminum ¼ male pipe to ¼ hose barb fitting for this attachment.

The RD fan shroud attaches to the top of the radiator tank using two threaded bosses. If the driver side boss is moved 2 1/8” toward the outside of the radiator (A center to center distance between the bosses of 13 ¾”), the stock plastic fan shroud will bolt on, if an electric fan shroud is not used. The passenger side boss is correctly positioned.

The bottom mount for the fan shroud is by two slotted brackets on the radiator bottom tank. These brackets are positioned to accept the stock plastic lower fan shroud tabs without any change.

If you are ordering a Ron Davis Vehicross radiator, verify that the changes I have describe here are included the design drawings. Communications sometimes break down. Trust but verify. (Ronald Regan)

Photos in the MODIFICATIONS gallery,

Roy

[VX KAT]

:dance: Wohoo!! :dance: Ron Davis Racing has finished the spec sheet or build sheet on my aluminum radiator and it's now in manufacturing, will be about 2-3 weeks. It continues to have episodes where the temp gets almost to the red zone after a long 15 miles climb up my big hill, with A/C and high air temp, so this will be a welcome replacement.

A HUGE thank you to you Roy (newthings) for helping me on this and sending your old radiator to them etc...:thanx:

Bill is still working on getting a quote for an aluminum shroud and bracket. He needs some other guy to do it and he's been out or something.

The brief details are:

Two rows of 1" tubes

The fins front to back will be 2.25" vs. the OEM of a hair short of 1.5"

Came in a little under his first ballpark estimate of $800...:thumbup:
Total $676.02 including tax. OEM from Merlin would be $433.82, so I think it's pretty reasonable based on the increased cooling capacity I'll get, especially living in Arizona.

I get to pick it up in person since they're in the Phoenix area, so I saved on shipping. Plus I can pick up Roy's parts and ship them back to him myself.

I'm going to ask what the price would be if any others want to purchase the same.

Of course now I need to get it in$talled too.

:dan_ban::dan_ban: I'm definitely a happy girl! It's going to look so cool .....and be so cool....:laugho: :dan_ban::dan_ban:
Of course pics to follow....


Detailed specs on my Ron Davis radiator-
Has more cooling capacity than OEM
No plastic parts, all aluminum
RD Part number 1-24RO9397
Can call Bill Williamson at RD and order it with that number. He's SUPER helpful and explains everything in great detail.
About $600.

Bill Williamson
Ron Davis Racing Products, Inc.
7334 North 108th Avenue
Glendale, AZ. 85307
Tel- 623-877-5000 Ext.16
Fax- 623-877-5001
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showpost.php?p=244972&postcount=5



MORE specs on my RD radiator:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showpost.php?p=245552&postcount=25

[JoFotoz]

OK..but I never had a too hot issue.

But then again...600lbs of skid plate..

...then all that F/glass!

:_brickwal

Ya..OK..I'm givin' you a touch of grief Kat!

:jump:

Jo

[VX KAT]

OK..but I never had a too hot issue.

But then again...600lbs of skid plate..

...then all that F/glass!

:_brickwal

Ya..OK..I'm givin' you a touch of grief Kat!

:jump:

Jo


it's 150 lbs of skid plate, not 600! Needer needer needer! :p

Interestingly, I talked to my offroad/mechanic at length about all possible causes, especially discussing all that others here mentioned in Zadam's thread. The skids being #1 in my mind as possible cause. He says the radiator itself is the ONLY thing that disappates heat and the skids have nothing to do with it. Plus he pointed out I had the skids on for 1 1/2 yrs w/o any overheating issue...um, good point....

He went through several other of the possibilities and why or why not he thought it could be it.

Yes, we could have just flushed or rodded it out like Zadam did and see what happens, and that may have worked, but I wanted to actually increase my cooling ability so that I "might" actually be able to run with A/C on when off road in warm temps.....as heat is my #1 enemy and makes my body turn into a slug....well, um,..... a bigger slug than normal. Probably won't be able to do it all the time, depending on the speed I'm going on the trail, but I thought it was worth it....now Dave....well, maybe not so much....:laugho:

[VX KAT]

Yah! My Ron Davis Racing radiator is now done and installed.
It looks awesome, and the welds are a thing of beauty!


It has about 3x the cooling capacity and the entire unit is aluminum, there's no plastic.


The fins are 2.25" deep vs. the OEMs of a little shy of 1.5".


It has 2 rows of 1" tubes.


The temp needle now rides about 2 tick below "halfway", whereas it was just 1 tick below before.


The OEM front bracket had to be modified slightly in the angle.



The OEM shroud had to be modified a bit on the top to clear the fan blades. They're in the same position, but end up further inside the OEM shroud because the radiator is a little deeper than the OEM, pushing the shroud back a bit. My mechanic just had to cut some of the plastic off the top of the shroud. (We priced a custom aluminum shroud from RD....:freek:...it would be at LEAST $400+...nevermind.....:goof:)



This was a little over $600 for the unit (plus some $70 for packaging materials). It was only about $200 more than an OEM....and I decided to splurge!


Will have to wait for a good hot AZ summer day to really test it out! :thumbup:

Again, a HUGE thank you to "newthings" for all his help on this and helping me bring this to a reality :thumbup::thanx:
*********************************************

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[johnnyapollo]

Hey Kat, very nice but I don't like the way your guy cut the shroud. I know removing it completely decreases cooling capability but I wonder how much you lose with that hole up there? Maybe you can fab up a cover for the hole that the blades won't hit?

-- John

[tom4bren]

I saw it the other day. I don't think that hole will cause any appreciable decrease in airflow through the radiator. If she fixes it, it will only be for aesthetics. I gave her some cladding material that she could use to cover the hole though.

[WormGod]

Are these going to be readily available or built to order? Or, is it just a one-off?

What's the weight comparison to the OEM or aftermarket equivalent? (I have some GM model since my old one went POP but it's the same really) Anywhere I can shave weight, I am a happy camper.

Have to agree though, that shroud needs some TLC. Also curious, since the shroud has been slightly relocated, I wonder if this would affect the S/C belt. Highly doubt it, but just thinking out loud.

[newthings]

Hi Gary,
I have not put on the stock shroud. My rad was made for a Davis electric
dual fan shroud and the mounting points are not the same as stock. New unit will look like Sue's. I can get away with a lot of fan flow loss in my climate, but I am still thinking about using the stock plastic route for safety. I removed the stock fan and found my electric fans hit the S/C belt, so it's back to the stock shroud with some cut outs for the top as well as other locations to clear the S/C belt. My rad did not have the notch for the stock hold down.

Davis can build a copy of Sue's unit if you order one.

Sue, you might take some modeling clay or a handful of wet paper towels and close the hood on the rad cap to verify clearance. I cannot tell if RD lowered the pipe, as requested. Looks good. A bit of file work will spiff up the shroud hole.
Cheers, Roy

[VXorado]

I may be interested in this bigger radiator. Sue, I'd like to see if it fixes your engine temp problems during the summer. I've always had problems with my engine temp during 90F+ summer days with AC running. The engine temp climbs way up until I turn off the AC & it drops like a rock back to the normal operating temp... its strange.

[newthings]

As to weight, I would guess 3 lbs more than stock and almost a gallon more in fluid at 8 lbs/gal. Total guess at 10lbs. We could start a lottery.
Roy

[Riff Raff]

I'm wondering for those of you having overheating problems if going to a lower temperature "themostat" may be worthwhile??? Our OEM factory VX thermostat is rated at 170-degrees. During an internet search, the lowest temperature aftermarket thermostat I could find for the VX was 160-degrees (see "link" below).

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Univ/Omix/Thermostat/O321710650.html?intcmpid=Product+Listings+Best+Sel ler

Perhaps changing to a 160-degree thermostat may help.

:_confused

[VXorado]

I'm wondering for those of you having overheating problems if going to a lower temperature "themostat" may be worthwhile??? Our OEM factory VX thermostat is rated at 170-degrees. During an internet search, the lowest temperature aftermarket thermostat I could find for the VX was 160-degrees (see "link" below).

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Univ/Omix/Thermostat/O321710650.html?intcmpid=Product+Listings+Best+Sel ler

Perhaps changing to a 160-degree thermostat may help.

:_confused

Thats a good idea and is worth looking more into. Too bad the thermostat is at the bottom of the engine :(. Its almost worth spending $600 on a bigger radiator just to not deal with pulling the engine apart.

Also, the torqflo fan clutch works very well at cooling the engine. It makes the engine sound like a semi (all fan sound) and pulls a noticable amount of power from the engine. I couldn't handle the sound after a couple months and replaced it with a another brand.

[Riff Raff]

Too bad the thermostat is at the bottom of the engine :(.

Huh??? Are you absolutely sure the VX Thermostat is located on the bottom of the engine (I've never heard of that before on any type of automotive engine)???

Please see the engine diagram lay-out in Post #6 of the below thread by member "Deer Magnet". Part #1 (labeled "NSS" ~ aka Thermostat & gasket #66) of Section B shows that section B is mounted top-front-center of the engine block, and in VX-KAT's pictures of this thread show that it's located directly underneath the front center air snorkel coming from the air cleaner at the very top-front-center of the engine (not bottom of engine).

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?threadid=21611

Unless I'm mistaken; changing a thermostat on a VX is very easy and couldn't be more simplier, as it is located top-front-center of engine within easy reach.

:bgwb:

[Ldub]

Huh???

Unless I'm mistaken; changing a thermostat on a VX is very easy and couldn't be more simplier, as it is located top-front-center of engine within easy reach.

Ummmmmm...not so much

I think he means under the intake manifold, which it is. (go pop your hood)

I've only ever heard of one person saying he was able to change the thermostat without removing the intake manifold, & he said it was such an undertaking that he would have pulled the intake & all the peripheral what-not, were he to do it again.

Also, that's the only way to be sure that all the O-rings etc are in place & properly sealed.

Since a pretty good percentage of 6VE1's prolly have their orig heater hoses, O-rings & intake gaskets intact, it's prolly worth pulling the intake...:_wrench:.:yesgray:

Suzee, that rad is a thing of beauty...:yes:.:thumbup:

[VX KAT]

Suzee, that rad is a thing of beauty...:yes:.:thumbup:

:mbrasd: thx Dub :wave:

[Ldub]

:mbrasd: thx Dub :wave:

BTW...if you want me to fab up a cover for that hole in the shroud, it shouldn't take long on the stoop...:smilewink...:smack:

I'll bring all the necessary what-not...:yesgray:

[VX KAT]

BTW...if you want me to fab up a cover for that hole in the shroud, it shouldn't take long on the stoop...:smilewink...:smack:

I'll bring all the necessary what-not...:yesgray:

:thanx: sounds like a plan....and I'll bring the purple spray paint....:goof:

[Ldub]

:thanx: sounds like a plan....and I'll bring the purple spray paint....:goof:

Be thinking about what you want it made of...

Alum diamond plate, 1/8" black textured plastic, plywood (kidding) etc...are all in the inventory...:yesgray:

[VXorado]

Huh??? Are you absolutely sure the VX Thermostat is located on the bottom of the engine (I've never heard of that before on any type of automotive engine)???

Please see the engine diagram lay-out in Post #6 of the below thread by member "Deer Magnet". Part #1 (labeled "NSS" ~ aka Thermostat & gasket #66) of Section B shows that section B is mounted top-front-center of the engine block, and in VX-KAT's pictures of this thread show that it's located directly underneath the front center air snorkel coming from the air cleaner at the very top-front-center of the engine (not bottom of engine).

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?threadid=21611

Unless I'm mistaken; changing a thermostat on a VX is very easy and couldn't be more simplier, as it is located top-front-center of engine within easy reach.

:bgwb:

Had to give me a hard time...huh :p. You can change "bottom" to "under stuff." I didn't mean the actual bottom, I was just expressing that its a lot of work to get to the thermostat. I haven't had a reason to pull the intake manifold yet on the VX but I've read several posts on the thermostat being a PITA to install. Dub knows. :)

[Ldub]

the thermostat being a PITA to install. Dub knows. :)

we're well aquainted...:yesgray:.:_wrench:

:rolleyesg.:smilewink

[Triathlete]

Be thinking about what you want it made of...

Alum diamond plate, 1/8" black textured plastic, plywood (kidding) etc...are all in the inventory...:yesgray:

Grape bubble-isious bubble gum! :D

[Ldub]

Grape bubble-isious bubble gum! :D

:thumbup:.:laughing:

We can form a line of chewers, then...:smack:...:drool:

[samneil2000]

Just saw this on ebay. Not sure if it's any good, the old saying you get what you pay for. Anyway, if someone's looking for a cheap radiator replacement...
$67 bucks...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Radiator-Plastic-Isuzu-Rodeo-2001-2000-99-98-97-96-95-94-93-Parts-8524759590-/370559065983?fits=Make:Isuzu|Model:VehiCROSS|Year: 1999&hash=item56470a9f7f&item=370559065983&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

http://ebay.carpartswholesale.com/prodimages/9601310.jpg

[VX KAT]

Are these going to be readily available or built to order? Or, is it just a one-off?

What's the weight comparison to the OEM or aftermarket equivalent? (I have some GM model since my old one went POP but it's the same really) Anywhere I can shave weight, I am a happy camper.

Have to agree though, that shroud needs some TLC. Also curious, since the shroud has been slightly relocated, I wonder if this would affect the S/C belt. Highly doubt it, but just thinking out loud.


As to weight, I would guess 3 lbs more than stock and almost a gallon more in fluid at 8 lbs/gal. Total guess at 10lbs. We could start a lottery.
Roy

Got some info from Ron Davis Racing:

Weighs around 14 lbs vs. OEM 11 lbs. Roy was right on the mark!
Holds a few more ounces than the OEM
Part number which is 1-24RO9397

Also fits a Rodeo (but didn't give model years)
He was surprised to hear the shroud needed to be cut....so I'm not sure where the problem lies...was it in their measurement & manufacture or my mechanics install....:_thinking

[newthings]

Hmmm,
Check that the rubber donuts are on the two pins at the bottom edges of the rad. These cushion the rad from the frame. They also raise the rad about 1". No donuts would drop the rad/shroud onto the fan and require a cutout.
Worth checking. I ordered new, but found the 10 year old rubber was as soft as the new. I think I kept the old ones if you need them.

Roy

[VX KAT]

Big thanks to Dub for making an aluminum treadplate "cover" and pop-riveting it to my OEM shroud where it had to be cut out for the blades to clear. Every little bit of air helps! Thanks again Dubster! :thumbup:

[VX KAT]

Just curious….now that I have a ScanGaugeII to play with and can see the water temp all the time….:naughty:

Went to Phoenix today, full A/C, going up/down the mountain curvy roads….
Normal is 180,
Went up to around 188 if sitting at light.
Hit 194 when idling for about 10 minutes.
Hit 200 coming up steep mountain/curves.
Goes right down once air is moving.

Needle never moved on gauge.


~ What kind of temps do you see when A/C is going and you're cruising highway speed, air temp around 90?

~ How much does it increase if you're under load for a while (uphill)?


Still don't know yet if fan clutch and blade replacement "fixed" the problem….need a much hotter day…that won't be hard to get if I go down to PHX.

[newthings]

So far, so good. Will watch progress.
Roy

[LittleBeast]

My trusted mechanics shop replaced my radiator with a terrible radiator that is not getting the job done, so I placed an order for one of these from Ron Davis today, should be here in 3 weeks.

[VX KAT]

My trusted mechanics shop replaced my radiator with a terrible radiator that is not getting the job done, so I placed an order for one of these from Ron Davis today, should be here in 3 weeks.

:thumbup:
Great choice! I'm now SURE I've fixed my overheating problem!
This year in Moab, ran with full A/C with air temp 94, going really slow on trails - Water temp stayed between 180 - 195, and hit 207 once when climbing slowly.
You'll love it in Houston!! :eek:

[LittleBeast]

So my mechanic said he would be willing to install the Ron Davis aluminum radiator and new fan shroud at no cost since I was not happy with the one his guy installed. So I got the first piece of the puzzle. FF Dynamics 16" Extreme Duty radiator cooling fan:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/image62.jpg

[AZOutlaw]

VX Kat, glad to see that the radiator has helped. I met Ron through work, and would definitely buy from him- he is a really nice guy. Have you spent any summer days (110+ degree)down in Phx with that radiator? any issues when it gets really hot here?

[LittleBeast]

Radiator has been working like a charm, however my problem ended up being the fan clutch and the FF Dynamics electric fan was not powerful enough to suck air through the thicker Ron Davis radiator. Now that I have the aluminum radiator and new fan clutch installed I have not gone over 180 degrees in 100+ Houston humidity. Pleased so far, but I would say most overheating issues can be solved with a new $100 fan clutch from AutoZone or amazon.

[VX KAT]

Radiator has been working like a charm, however my problem ended up being the fan clutch and the FF Dynamics electric fan was not powerful enough to suck air through the thicker Ron Davis radiator. Now that I have the aluminum radiator and new fan clutch installed I have not gone over 180 degrees in 100+ Houston humidity. Pleased so far, but I would say most overheating issues can be solved with a new $100 fan clutch from AutoZone or amazon.

Actually, Bill Williamson at RD Radiator advised me against putting an auxilliary fan on as it would actually cause a decrease in air flow as it actually blocks airflow and only about 30% gets through.
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showpost.php?p=258311&postcount=19

And it was the same for me basically, my problem wasn't fully resolved either until I replaced the fan clutch (and redesigned fan blade).

I went with OEM cuz somebody mentioned they'd tried several aftermarket f.c.'s and they'd and their overheating wasn't resolved until they tried the OEM f.c. Think it was VXorado.

[LittleBeast]

Actually, Bill Williamson at RD Radiator advised me against putting an auxilliary fan on as it would actually cause a decrease in air flow as it actually blocks airflow and only about 30% gets through.
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showpost.php?p=258311&postcount=19

And it was the same for me basically, my problem wasn't fully resolved either until I replaced the fan clutch (and redesigned fan blade).

I went with OEM cuz somebody mentioned they'd tried several aftermarket f.c.'s and they'd and their overheating wasn't resolved until they tried the OEM f.c. Think it was VXorado.

The FF Dynamics electric fan I tried actually replaced the stock fan with fan clutch and the fan shroud, but it was not strong enough for the thicker Ron Davis aluminum radiator. The "auxilary fan" added to the front of the condenser (not the radiator) actually does help keep the A/C compressor happy in hotter weather. Two totally different things though. Auxilary fan cools condenser (A/C) and main fan with clutch cools radiator.

I got a $90 fan clutch from AutoZone and it is working better then the stock one ever did (hopefully it will last). If we order a new fan clutch from Isuzu we are forced to get a new fan and fan clutch, I believe Merlin quoted me somewhere just above $300 for both because our older design is not avaliable anymore.

[VX KAT]

Oh, I thought the FF Dynamics fan was for in front, like a few other owners have done. My bad.

I know what you mean about the redesigned OEM fan clutch and fan blade, as I had to buy them both, and they were spendy. But since I can't do any of this wrenching myself, I want it to last another 12 years. :laugho:
Merlin told me the redesigned fan blade is supposed to improve air flow, and I think supposed to be quieter too.

Glad you solved your problem too!

AZOutlaw- I was running around PHX all afternoon today, water temp never went above 184. I know it wasn't the hottest day, maybe 100-102 ? But it was all stop and go, and short hops, with full A/C and no problem. :thumbup:

[LittleBeast]

I might eventually look into the new fan and fan clutch from Isuzu, sounds intriguing. Mine sounds like a fighter jet taking off now :-)

[VX crazy]

Sue thanks for sending this to me, as I am too lazy to search here lol, anyone know temp values before and after this? Anyone else have this radiator? I would love to know a temp number that Sue ran in AZ heat with that new radiator.

[VX crazy]

Weird these posts with my answers didn't show up until I posted this......

[VX crazy]

Ryan do you remember what brand fan clutch you got? I see 2 on amazon and a third on autozone.......

[LittleBeast]

I just got the one from AutoZone. It is louder but does its job better then the factory one did.

[LittleBeast]

Since I got the Ron Davis radiator and the new clutch the VX has not gone over 180. Before I was getting to 210 or so every time I was sitting in traffic.

[VXorado]

Littlebeast, I bet you have the Torqflo... I ran that one years ago and it's a bit of a power suck...


Also, the torqflo fan clutch works very well at cooling the engine. It makes the engine sound like a semi (all fan sound) and pulls a noticeable amount of power from the engine. I couldn't handle the sound after a couple months and replaced it with a another brand.

After getting tired of the "semi truck fan," I went to Pepboys where I purchased another aftermarket fan clutch (It was blue-Hayden?). Sounded normal again but my engine started running hot again in hot weather+A/C. So I decided to bite the bullet for the FFD electric fans and immediately the engine ran hotter all the time. I ran the FFD fans for a couple months but it was during the winter and was worried I would get stranded somewhere on the first warm Spring day. A month before Moab 2012, I desperately pulled a junkyard OEM fan clutch off an older Isuzu Rodeo and BAM, problem solved. You can hear the fan but it's much less noticeable than the torqflo and I can run A/C whenever & wherever (i.e. stopped on a trail in Moab with 95 Degree weather).

Moral of the story? Start small and know that the aftermarket brands are not all created equal (or spec'd the same :rolleyes:). In a pinch, the AutoZone Torqflo clutch will cool the engine but you'll definitely notice (and hear) it!!! The Rodeo's may have come with a better fan clutch than the VXes or it's just spec'd to pull a bit more air through the radiator. It's possible a 1st gen Rodeo aftermarket fan clutch might work the same as my OEM Rodeo junkyard clutch. If that doesn't fix the issue, I would move to a new radiator. Definitely skip the FFD fan setup and save yourself some hard earned cash (or if you want one, I'll sell it to you CHEAP).
:_beer:

[LittleBeast]

Haha, same here, I will sell you the FFD fan for cheap as well, but it's not going to help you.

[VX KAT]

Sue thanks for sending this to me, as I am too lazy to search here lol, anyone know temp values before and after this? Anyone else have this radiator? I would love to know a temp number that Sue ran in AZ heat with that new radiator.

See posts #28 and #37 above, I gave some scangauge temps.

[VX crazy]

OMG amazeballs! Yes I got the torqflo, very loud, but I don't care! We pulled radiator off yesterday and had new ones to swap, but mine was perfect, no buildup on bottom, BOTH VXs ran hot after they got to over 80k miles, which makes sense that it's been fan clutch, both my VXs would get up to 220 and run rough in traffic, now I can't get it over 172, huge difference! We tried electric fan conversion on mine years ago and it came right back off, ran even hotter! I don't care if it sounds like a semi lol, I just can't believe it was such an easy fix that seemed too easy all these years! Thanks guys!

[LittleBeast]

Yeah, and for what it's worth the torque flow has quieted down a little for me after a few months, but the ScanGauge is still reading 173 consistently running AC in the heat. Occasionally it will get to 182 but since installing it has not seen 190.

[eternal21]

So even running Ron Davis' dual electric fan setup in a custom aluminum shroud, the truck is still overheating. Since it only happens when the a/c is on, I was contemplating replacing the a/c compressor. Doing so would cause me to replace the drier and expansion valve + vacuum out the refrigerant and put the a/c system on a vacuum.....i.e., a lot more work. I decide to give the new OEM fan (part # 8-97349-762-0) a try, along with a new OEM fan clutch. On the Isuzu parts website, they still have the old fan listed, not the new one, so it would appear that you can still order an older design. The new one is much more expensive ($241) than the old. I'll take some pics this weekend prior to installation. Figured that if this *still* doesn't work, I can sell the new bits on the forum and move back to the dual electric fans and replace the AC components.

The new fan has 9 blades, and are much more angular that I remember the stock one being. Anyone have any pics of the old fan to compare?

P.S. The invoice also says something a bit disconcerting: "Dealers are free to sell these products at whatever price or margin of profit they choose." Nice :-\

[VX KAT]

So even running Ron Davis' dual electric fan setup in a custom aluminum shroud, the truck is still overheating. Since it only happens when the a/c is on, I was contemplating replacing the a/c compressor. Doing so would cause me to replace the drier and expansion valve + vacuum out the refrigerant and put the a/c system on a vacuum.....i.e., a lot more work. I decide to give the new OEM fan (part # 8-97349-762-0) a try, along with a new OEM fan clutch. On the Isuzu parts website, they still have the old fan listed, not the new one, so it would appear that you can still order an older design. The new one is much more expensive ($241) than the old. I'll take some pics this weekend prior to installation. Figured that if this *still* doesn't work, I can sell the new bits on the forum and move back to the dual electric fans and replace the AC components.

The new fan has 9 blades, and are much more angular that I remember the stock one being. Anyone have any pics of the old fan to compare?

See my post #13:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=23039&highlight=ron+davis+fan+blade

[eternal21]

See my post #13:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=23039&highlight=ron+davis+fan+blade

Thanks for that. The fan clutch only cost $82, which seems to have come down significantly, given your referenced post. That fan itself, however, was rather pricey.

[VX KAT]

Thanks for that. The fan clutch only cost $82, which seems to have come down significantly.

Wow, that's great it came down...looks like I got the honor of paying TOP price :_brickwal

[eternal21]

Wow, that's great it came down...looks like I got the honor of paying TOP price :_brickwal

Yeah, I'm going to pick up 2 spares on Tuesday, provided this all works.

[vxcp]

New radiator, fan, and fan clutch did the trick for me.

[LittleBeast]

Where did you get the new Isuzu style fan and fan clutch at a good price?

[eternal21]

Where did you get the new Isuzu style fan and fan clutch at a good price?

Me? Scarff Isuzu....only place I know where to get OEM parts, although I wouldn't call $241 for a fan a "good price".

[Etfren]

I didn't have any problems with my RD radiator in Moab this year. Made a custom aluminum shroud to hold my 2 10" electric fans (not sure what brand, got them used from a friend) and everything has been great. Holds temp at just below half gauge driving around without the fans, and stayed the same on all the trails with the fans on. I didn't run the A/C at all in Moab thanks to my blower motor being dead, but I am confident it will be fine this summer.

[eternal21]

Well, so far, so good. I've been running the a/c full blast every day, no matter what, and it hasn't even moved past 1/2 way. I even spent time on Tuesday purposely sitting in traffic, as that would always cause it to overheat in the past. Waiting for a 100+ degree day in full sunlight before I'll call this one closed, though.

[VX crazy]

Well, so far, so good. I've been running the a/c full blast every day, no matter what, and it hasn't even moved past 1/2 way. I even spent time on Tuesday purposely sitting in traffic, as that would always cause it to overheat in the past. Waiting for a 100+ degree day in full sunlight before I'll call this one closed, though.

With ya here, drove yesterday and prior to change of fan clutch, about 2 wks ago, would get up to 220+ with AC before I would shut off AC in traffic, yesterday max it got up to was like 188 in traffic and it was what 86 yesterday? AND I drove it hard on the toll at about 85 mph for about 15 min prior to sitting in traffic. I am such a happy camper!

[disasterlady]

I'm confused with the different references here... having overheating issues myself when AC is on. Noticed condenser fan wasn't working off and on but not sure where to get the best deal or quiet fan.

Is clutch fan the fan for the radiator or is it the one in front for the AC condenser?


Does anyone know the actual diameter size of the condenser fan ?

Is there a good universal or common aftermarket replacement for it?

Going to try replacing engine temp sensor for first fix as I hear it is a easy and cheaper fix... any suggestions on this and/or prices and deals?

thanks everyone!!

[LittleBeast]

I'm confused with the different references here... having overheating issues myself when AC is on. Noticed condenser fan wasn't working off and on but not sure where to get the best deal or quiet fan.

Is clutch fan the fan for the radiator or is it the one in front for the AC condenser?


Does anyone know the actual diameter size of the condenser fan ?

Is there a good universal or common aftermarket replacement for it?

Going to try replacing engine temp sensor for first fix as I hear it is a easy and cheaper fix... any suggestions on this and/or prices and deals?

thanks everyone!!

A clutch for a fan is for a fan connected to the serpentine belt or directly to engine. Electric fans like the condenser fan have no clutch as there is no physical connection to the engine, just simply wires to a relay and heat sensor. Our condenser fan is the small electric one in front of the condenser. I am not sure on the exact size of it, but just about any decent electric fan that is wired to push air through the condenser would work fine. I have two on mine as many people have done here. I think the confusion comes into play when some of us have tried to replace our cluth style radiator fans with a large electric style radiator fan setup. I found that no matter how good of an electric fan I could not get temps below 200 consistently, but going back to the clutch style radiator fan and just adding a new clutch my temps stay under 180 even sitting in traffic in TX heat. Not sure about replacing the "engine temp sensor". If you have a clutch style fan there is no such thing, there is a thermostat that opens at a specific temp for the radiator coolant to flow, I am sure there might be a temp sensor for the condenser fan, but it should just come on when you start the AC compressor by turning the AC controls on inside the car.