cleaning egr

[evillecutter]

im trying to find a current step by step for cleaning my egr valve - all the threads i found on here are outdated and say error 404 when i click on the links to the walkthroughs - any help is appreciated sorry i couldnt find it myself

[blacksambo]

What makes you think it needs cleaning? I've owned three VX's, and travelled 150 K in them and never once cleaned the EGR valve or tube????????

[evillecutter]

ive read on multiple threads on here that it could help in the elimination of oil consumption which i have slight bit of - im at 110,000 mi now and my engine is running like a top but i had a day off work was going to try some preventative maintenance - think i should just leave it alone?

[Ldub]

ive read on multiple threads on here that it could help in the elimination of oil consumption which i have slight bit of - im at 110,000 mi now and my engine is running like a top but i had a day off work was going to try some preventative maintenance - think i should just leave it alone?

I'm of the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" school of thought on this. If there were a prob with the EGR, it'd be throwin' a code (CEL).

On most everything else, I usually "fix it till it's broke"...:rolleyesg.:_wrench:

[WormGod]

Yep. Once you play with it, chances are, it will always give you issues. I am of that category. Replaced mine after my S/C install years ago, and now I encounter random issues with it. Imagine that....

[Y33TREKker]

In my opinion, the best thing a person can do to possibly alleviate excess oil usage in a VX is replace the PCV valve with a simple breather filter.

[blacksambo]

How does this work? Will it pass inspection? What brand and part number do you use?

[evillecutter]

In my opinion, the best thing a person can do to possibly alleviate excess oil usage in a VX is replace the PCV valve with a simple breather filter.

so by eliminating the pcv you keep the oil vapor inside the crankcase instead of venting it into the intake manifold - which should lead to less oil burn but more sludge in the engine since that's the entire purpose of the system is to prevent oil contamination and sludge formation...but is the vapor able to actually vent through the filter? if it is venting properly and not allowing it to build up inside you would think the filter would need to be changed often because of all the oil vapor coming through it - it does makes sense that it would burn less but are you sure that is what is best for the engine? i guess it could be kind of a wash - on one hand you would burn less oil but need to change it more often because of sludge building up faster - where leaving it alone would burn more oil but should keep the system cleaner - not to mention that adding fresh oil when needed can extend the time in between changes a bit - im also assuming you would need to plug the vacuum hose for your vent to work? do you get cel from this?

[Ldub]

so by eliminating the pcv you keep the oil vapor inside the crankcase instead of venting it into the intake manifold -

Not quite...a breather releases all the crank case vapor into the atmosphere...you know...like back in the 60's...:cool:

Now...iff'n ya was to put a CORK in there...well, that'd be more like your scenario...:yes:

[deermagnet]

I've done it at least five times. I believe twice for a slow flow code, and other times just to keep the small tube clean. It's super easy. My gasket was always sealed to the valve, and I never replaced it yet. Others got a new gasket at NAPA for like $3, so have one on hand. A uni-joint will help with the bolts.

The process is the first question here-
http://www.isuzufaq.com/ (http://www.isuzufaq.com/)

If you have no trouble code to start with, you should have after running the engine with the valve off. Just clear it with a code reader.

I tried the breather thing for a short while years ago. I plugged the tube to the intake with a bolt and had a breather filter thing on the hole. It didn't reduce oil use for me at all, so I went back to the stock PCV valve.

It should not pass inspection with a breather like that, but it would be easy to change back just to pass.

Mark

[evillecutter]

Not quite...a breather releases all the crank case vapor into the atmosphere...you know...like back in the 60's...:cool:

Now...iff'n ya was to put a CORK in there...well, that'd be more like your scenario...:yes:

so the pcv is an environmental thing then like catalytic converters and the egr etc? sometimes i just wanna take all that s### off and see how it runs - have a check engine light but probably get 30+ mpg or something -heck i bet the oil companies where the ones who lobbied to get the epa to make that crap mandatory in the first place

[evillecutter]

I've done it at least five times. I believe twice for a slow flow code, and other times just to keep the small tube clean. It's super easy. My gasket was always sealed to the valve, and I never replaced it yet. Others got a new gasket at NAPA for like $3, so have one on hand. A uni-joint will help with the bolts.

The process is the first question here-
http://www.isuzufaq.com/ (http://www.isuzufaq.com/)

If you have no trouble code to start with, you should have after running the engine with the valve off. Just clear it with a code reader.

I tried the breather thing for a short while years ago. I plugged the tube to the intake with a bolt and had a breather filter thing on the hole. It didn't reduce oil use for me at all, so I went back to the stock PCV valve.

It should not pass inspection with a breather like that, but it would be easy to change back just to pass.

Mark

not throwing a code now and do not want to anytime soon if at all possible so i think i will probably just stick to using the stock pcv -i cleaned it out with carb cleaner it seems to be working just fine and looks in good shape - plus i dont use that much oil so its not that big of a deal yet - hey i dont have a code reader so do you have a suggestion of what type/brand/model might be decent/affordable and somewhat user friendly? - and fyi - in indiana we dont have inspections we just blow all out dirty air down to kentucky :smilegray

[blacksambo]

I think you're getting it now. You don't really need a code reader, just a ten mm wrench to remove the negative battery terminal for thirty minutes. Oh, and don't forget to reset the clock. If you need instructions on how to do that just holler.

[PK]

I think you're getting it now. You don't really need a code reader, just a ten mm wrench to remove the negative battery terminal for thirty minutes. Oh, and don't forget to reset the clock. If you need instructions on how to do that just holler.

You have a clock???
Wow - 1 up for the USA market version.

PK

[blacksambo]

Yes, the clock is part of the audio head.

[deermagnet]

hey i dont have a code reader so do you have a suggestion of what type/brand/model might be decent/affordable and somewhat user friendly?
You can get one at Walmart for ~$70. Just make sure it says it'll clear/erase the code. There are some real cheap ones that just read the code.

Here's one for only $52. It has some software which some website wants you to pay to get more specific info on codes and fixes, but that stuff is free all over the internets. Some of the customer reviews say it shuts off the light with a push of a button.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Equus-3030-Innova-Diagnostic-Code-Reader-for-OBDII-Vehicles/13029622 (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Equus-3030-Innova-Diagnostic-Code-Reader-for-OBDII-Vehicles/13029622)

Then you'll be able to read the codes and erase 'em and turn off the check engine light in seconds. Even while you're driving without ever lifting the gas pedal.

Mark

[Ldub]

You can get one at Walmart for ~$70. Just make sure it says it'll clear/erase the code. There are some real cheap ones that just read the code.

Then you'll be able to read the codes and erase 'em and turn of the check engine light in seconds. Even while you're driving without ever lifting the gas pedal.

Mark

X-2...:thumbup:

I like my Aero Force scan gauge thingy (http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CHsQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.aeroforcetech.com%2F&ei=DneqT6K_GYak8QSJqIDrDw&usg=AFQjCNE01oZfm1XyDdUT60PP7GHtmK8P0g&sig2=AvbCJx_XjGW2gEeaJGUBzQ)...:yes:

More expen$ive, but will do all that a code reader will, + display in real time, any 2 parameters of my choosing.

[Y33TREKker]

so by eliminating the pcv you keep the oil vapor inside the crankcase instead of venting it into the intake manifold - which should lead to less oil burn but more sludge in the engine since that's the entire purpose of the system is to prevent oil contamination and sludge formation...but is the vapor able to actually vent through the filter? if it is venting properly and not allowing it to build up inside you would think the filter would need to be changed often because of all the oil vapor coming through it - it does makes sense that it would burn less but are you sure that is what is best for the engine? i guess it could be kind of a wash - on one hand you would burn less oil but need to change it more often because of sludge building up faster - where leaving it alone would burn more oil but should keep the system cleaner - not to mention that adding fresh oil when needed can extend the time in between changes a bit - im also assuming you would need to plug the vacuum hose for your vent to work? do you get cel from this?
I've always viewed it as related more to internal vacuum, and a combination of factors not limited only to the PCV valve.

Yes, the main idea behind the PCV valve is based on reducing emissions (burning off oil vapors rather than venting them to the atmosphere), and if that were all that were coming into play where a VX was concerned, then keeping it in place would be best for the VX and the environment. Plus, if oil vapor leads to sludge, venting it would seem to address that problem.

Unfortunately, poorly considered piston and ring design are also factors in this case. Over time, a lack of drain-back holes in the piston bodies leads to accumulation of oil-based sludge on some piston rings, which in turn leads to the piston rings creating even MORE vacuum than originally intended for on the intake strokes, which in turn leads to even more oil vapors being drawn into the cylinders via the intake and PCV systems. In short, a vicious cycle.

Maybe it's simply a question of catching it before the cycle ever get's started that accounts for whether a person has oil usage even if using a breather filter instead of the stock PCV system, maybe not, but I'd personally rather not risk it. Can current piston/piston-ring build-up be eliminated (Seafoam, etc)? Probably no way to really tell short of engine disassembly, but some here seem to have had some success trying that too.

[evillecutter]

very interesting thanks everyone

[Bulldoggie]

I have the Scangauge II
Absolutely love it. Resets codes while you are driving.
(I still keep getting the P 0401 code)
I think they should be Standard equipment.
Autozone sales 'em.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Tools-Garage-and-Equipment/Scan-Gauge/_/N-26p9

[JHarris1385]

Another scan gauge user here.

[johnnyapollo]

I bought an inexpensive one somewhere for less than $30. It displays codes and after the fourth time cycling clears any. I'm not sure what other options you need on something like that.

-- John

[H3_VX]

Can anyone help me with an egr question. I'm gonna order an acdelco replacement. here is this listing on ebay which states it matches. but in the description it says the gasket fits vins with the 8th letter "H". My 8th is "X". Does this mean I can't use that gasket that comes with this egr? http://www.ebay.com/itm/310382019639?item=310382019639&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:eRTM:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr

[evillecutter]

Can anyone help me with an egr question. I'm gonna order an acdelco replacement. here is this listing on ebay which states it matches. but in the description it says the gasket fits vins with the 8th letter "H". My 8th is "X". Does this mean I can't use that gasket that comes with this egr? http://www.ebay.com/itm/310382019639?item=310382019639&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:eRTM:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Isuzu/VehiCROSS/Replacement/EGR_Valve/2000/Base/6_Cyl_3-dot-5L/REPG509202.html?intcmpid=Product+Listings+Best+Sel ler

that looks right to me but im still new here - here's one cheaper

[H3_VX]

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Isuzu/VehiCROSS/Replacement/EGR_Valve/2000/Base/6_Cyl_3-dot-5L/REPG509202.html?intcmpid=Product+Listings+Best+Sel ler

that looks right to me but im still new here - here's one cheaper
Thanks for the chime in. I want that one on ebay cause its Acdelco. Just want to make sure before i buy.

[ben-man]

hey evillecutter
just curious... did you ever find the step-by-step egr-cleaning instructions you were originally looking for? My CEL light came on last night and it threw a p1404 code at me. I'd like to start by cleaning the egr but, like you, can't find any current instructions...

[evillecutter]

no sorry i ended up leaving the egr alone for now - never did find a walkthrough

[Leon R]

My Vehicross arrived to me with CE light on. Checking the codes revealed two codes:

Random misfire and EGT flow restricted

I reset both codes and went for the inspection sticker. Bad idea... as my readiness codes were not sufficient, so I got rejected. I now have 60 days to re-inspect.

I will have to drive for a while and see if the codes come back. If EGR code is back, I will have to clean it and hopefully it will do the trick.

But after I get the sticker, I wouldn't mind disabling the EGR system because it is one of the most ill-conceived emission controls devices ever made! I guess it works OK, when it works, but it deposits carbon remnants all over the intake system, causing numerous other problems! Is there a popular way of disabling the EGR? I know many engines have a "block off plate", do we have something similar for VX?

[Leon R]

30 miles later and EGR code is back :(. Has anyone located resent direction on the cleaning EGR (that actually work)?

[tom4bren]

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?threadid=21001

[evillecutter]

do we need to replace the metal gasket if we take the egr off to clean it? its suggested in everything i have read but i havent heard anyone mention anything about it on here

[tom4bren]

If you do enough digging, you'll find it mentioned. From what I've read, so far nobody has had to replace it.

[evillecutter]

thanks i didnt think so but i wanted to ask the pros

[tom4bren]

thanks i didnt think so but i wanted to ask the pros

Then the wrong person responded. I haven't had to clean my EGR yet.:)

[PK]

I have replaced my EGR valve.
The new valve came with a new gasket, so I installed it.
But the old gasket stills looks okay.

I intend to clean up the old valve and keep it as a spare.

PK

[tom4bren]

I have replaced my EGR valve.
The new valve came with a new gasket, so I installed it.
But the old gasket stills looks okay.

I intend to clean up the old valve and keep it as a spare.

PK

There ya go. The pro hath spoken.

[evillecutter]

I have replaced my EGR valve.
The new valve came with a new gasket, so I installed it.
But the old gasket stills looks okay.

I intend to clean up the old valve and keep it as a spare.

PK

when you replaced did you go with the cheaper one (around $100) or with the higher end one? (about $120 - $150) the more expensive actually look like they were built better but i didnt know if they could actually work better

[Ldub]

do we need to replace the metal gasket if we take the egr off to clean it? its suggested in everything i have read but i havent heard anyone mention anything about it on here

I've re-used the OEM one at least 6-7 times, with a little smear of hi-temp RTV for good measure.

[PK]

when you replaced did you go with the cheaper one (around $100) or with the higher end one? (about $120 - $150) the more expensive actually look like they were built better but i didnt know if they could actually work better

I would have to check the paperwork as I bought it the same time as a heap of other parts and can't remember the individual pricing.
Might even have been genuine Isuzu as most of the parts were.

PK

[Leon R]

Cleaning was extremely easy! Just two 12mm sockets with 6" extension and a rachet. I didn't have any carb cleaner, so I used some Mopar Combustion Chamber cleaner that I had kicking around in the garage. The entire job took 20 min! I reused the original gasket.

So far, CE light hasn't come back after 120 miles! I highly recommend doing this before you buy a new valve!

Thanks for all the advise!