Vicki needs a new heart...

[MSHardeman]

Vicki (my VX for those that don't know her) has been throwing a P0303 (misfire detected in cylinder three) code, and has been running rough for a couple of months now. After exhausting all of my shade tree mechanics knowledge I finally broke down and took her to a mechanic. The diagnosis was exactly as I had feared; NO compression in cylinder three. :_crying: The mechanic checked cylinder one for the heck of it and it is down at 125psi. I don't know the exact specs on our engines, but he thinks that's pretty low too.

SO, with that it looks like Vicki is going to need a new heart. I know others have done this before so I am looking for opinions on who to go to to get a new engine.

I know this information is on the site, and I will do copious amounts of research later, but pressed for time right now so I just wanted to get the ball rolling.

I'm thinking of going the new engine route since the current engine has gulped 3/4 of a quart of oil every 300-350 miles since I bought the VX with 35,000 miles on it. Doesn't seem to make sense to try and rebuild and engine that is loosing that much oil.

Any opinions and experiences would be greatly appreciated.

[BigSwede]

Are you sure it's not just a head gasket?

[Scott Larson]

Pull the heads first, before you condemn the engine, might just be as mentioned above or has valvetrain issues like worn valves or excessive carbon buildup!

[H3_VX]

If/when my VX's engine is finished, I plan on replacing the drivetrain completely with anything but Isuzu parts. Will find something reliable and longer lasting than Isuzu mechanicals. Don't need 400hp, just something reliable. If I were you or anyone else i'd call a drivetrain specialist shop and have them put together a reliable "heart." There's a thread on here where someone from Maine did this and kept everything except the TOD of course. As long as I have 4WD, I personally don't need the TOD. I believe he even got a V8 istalled and even kept the A/C intact. Correct me if i'm wrong.

[Etfren]

Wouldn't there be plenty of other symptoms if it was a head gasket?

Sorry to hear about Vicki. I'm in the process of a motor swap myself, but like others here, I'm taking my sweet time with it since its not my primary driver. I opted for the 02 Axiom swap and plan to do a full write up when I'm done, but I don't think I will be of much help in time for you.

[MSHardeman]

BigSwede/ Scott,

How involved is it to take the heads off of the engine? Is it something that I can do in my driveway in a weekend? Do you have to take the timing belt off to get the heads off?

Guess I have a little research to do.

Thanks for the suggestion, because that would sure be cheaper than a new engine.

[Scott Larson]

A blown head gasket can show multiple symptoms or only one. Loss of compression, white exhaust smoke, antifreeze in the oil (never a good thing), oil in the antifreeze, etc. It all depends on where the breech in the gasket has occured.

[MSHardeman]

The only issues that I have had is that it throws the cylinder three mis-fire code. Hasn't smoked at all, and hasn't been burning any more oil than normal.

The mechanic did say that the oil looked ugly when they drained it out. Didn't think to ask what "ugly" meant. Guess I'll give them a call and find out.

[MSHardeman]

Looking at the engine a little bit more, I don't think that this is something that I could do in a weekend. Looks like I would have to get the intake manifold off first, and I tried to do that this past weekend when I thought that the issue might have been an intake manifold gasket. The intake would NOT budge. I had everything disconnected and unbolted, but that sucker still would not come loose even after a few "love taps" with a dead blow hammer.

After getting the manifold off, it looks like I would need to take the timing belt off too just to get the head off. Might be a job for a shop.

[Scott Larson]

Removing the heads, although time consuming, is really not that difficult. You will be unbolting the exhaust manifolds from the heads and pulling them away for clearance, removing the intake manifold, the valve covers, the timing belt covers along with timing belt and then unbolting the heads. You will want to unbolt them in the same manner that you would install them, loosening the head bolts in a criss-cross pattern so as not to induce torque-warp. The shop manual is a must for this whole job as you will find other necessary steps to take to complete the removal and reinstallation process. Keep in mind that you will be reseting your valve timing as you will be disturbing the valvetrain. You will also be removing the same parts as you would to do a timing belt replacement so keep that in mind. Basic mechanics skills and hand tools are essential as are a good torque wrench and patience!! Give yourself plenty of time and a well lit garage, cuz there's nothing worse then trying to rush a job in poor conditions, been there, done that and we all know it ain't fun! Anyone who has done this job on this particuar vehicle feel free to chime in as to any preceedures I may have overlooked in this basic overview...Best of luck and don't let it overwhelm you! :_brickwal

[Scott Larson]

And then there is always that option of having the pros do it... If you have a good, reputable shop in mind and you have the bucks to spend, there ain't no shame in that!!

[Scott Larson]

"Ugly oil" tells me that there is a combustion issue. If you change oil and filter regularly with quality product and you have really dirty oil between changes either there are contaminants entering through the intake or being created due to a misfiring ingnition. That could be anything from a faulty sensor or engine management computer to bad coils or plugs. That also causes carbon buildup on exhaust valves and loss of compression and wasn't that the issue to begin with? Hmmmmmm...we may be getting somewhere Watson!:?:

[Scott Larson]

Carbon contaminated oil will have a burnt smell to it and be black, really black... and although black may be beautiful, not when it's engine oil!

[MSHardeman]

Just talked to the shop that did the test this morning and the "ugly" oil that they were talking about was a lot of gas in the oil. From what they said, no coolant or metal shavings, but there was a lot of raw fuel which means it wasn't getting burned in the cylinder and was slipping by into the oil. I could smell raw fuel at the tail pipe, and could easily hear a miss in the exhaust note.

I asked the mechanic about the blown head gasket theory or carbon build-up on the valve. Their opinion is that if either of those happened the cylinder would have SOME compression, even if it would be low, not ZERO psi. They said that they have had Subaru's with carbon build-up on the valves before and they still had some compression in the cylinders.

Removing the head by myself seems like a BIG job, especially if the timing gets thrown off. I replaced my timing belt myself, and it wasn't hard, but very time consuming. I also didn't fuss with the timing, and it was easy to put the new timing belt back on and get the timing right. Pulling the head completely off, and messing the timing up, really scares me. I really don't have the cash to have a shop do it either, so I'm sort of between a rock and a hard place. I could probably scrape the money together to have it done, but if after all of that I still need to replace the engine then I've wasted that money.

[MSHardeman]

"Ugly oil" tells me that there is a combustion issue. If you change oil and filter regularly with quality product and you have really dirty oil between changes either there are contaminants entering through the intake or being created due to a misfiring ingnition. That could be anything from a faulty sensor or engine management computer to bad coils or plugs. That also causes carbon buildup on exhaust valves and loss of compression and wasn't that the issue to begin with? Hmmmmmm...we may be getting somewhere Watson!:?:

Scott, thanks for the suggestions. I would REALLY like it to not be a burned/bad valve so keep reading and keep suggesting some options.

See previous post about what "ugly" oil meant to the mechanics (gas in the oil). I change my oil and filter religiously with good filters and synthetic oil. Believe me, baby is well taken care of.

When the misfire code started showing up in mid-May, I swapped coils from one cylinder to the other and the code stayed at #3. I then replaced the spark plug in #3 with a stock Isuzu plug (the same one that were in it from the factory), and the misfire code still stayed at #3. Cleaned the EGR and MAF just to be sure. I also ran SeaFoam through the gas tank, AND sucked some up into the engine via the PCV tube. The engine never smoked like all of the instructions say that it should have after that treatment, but I usually have the PCV replace, EGR and throttle body cleaned at every other oil change.

Maybe I'm missing something, but I think I've been pretty thorough in trying to suss this thing out which is why I brought it to a mechanic, since I had exhausted my limited knowledge.

Any other suggestions/ opinions? I'm open to them all.

[Scott Larson]

I think you just answered your own question. Pulling the heads won't cost you a thing and could tell you all you need to know. If the engine is obviously in tough shape (holed piston, scored cylinder walls, etc...), it will have cost you nothing to discover that on your own. You'll still need either a new engine or to rebuild what you have but you'll have spent notta to find that out plus look at the mad-skills you will have gained by doing that much yourself. You may then find that completing the job on your own isn't so daunting after all, at least you won't be out anything; at this point what is there to lose? :thumbup:

[Scott Larson]

I am definately going with a stuck exhaust valve and here's why... First, no compression! Second, code stayed with that cylinder regardless! Third, engine never smoked because the SeaFoam was expelled directly out that stuck valve and was never burned in the combustion process. The dirty oil is speaking also, why was there gas in the oil? Because it wasn't being burned in the combustion process either, no compression means poor, incomplete fuel burn. That gas was washing the oil off that cylinder wall and going back into the crankcase as a dilution hence the gas-smelling oil. That's my two cents and if you can spare some change back, I would appreciate it...:bla:

[MSHardeman]

Scott, sorry but don't have any change to give back because this whole thing is taxing my brain.:rolleyes:

I really don't have, much, of a problem pulling the head off myself other than the fact that I couldn't get the intake manifold to budge this past weekend so I don't know how to get around that issue first. Second, even though she's running on five cylinders she is still my daily "driver". I guess I could put her out of commission for a little while and take the bus to work.

If I do get the head off and find that it is a stuck valve, then what? She's really out of commission then and I'd have to have her towed somewhere and there is no one here in my little valley that can work on her to that extent. I live in the Aspen valley, three hours from Denver where all of the engine re-builders/ replacers would be. Guess I have some thinking to do.

[Scott Larson]

That does put you in a tough spot. Sorry I didn't realize your predicament, I'm spoiled by having too many vehicles except when it comes to keeping them all running! And yes, once you have the heads off and it is a valve problem, your best bet is to have the heads rebuilt by a machine shop specializing in that. You could do it youself but it requires some rather specialized tools so I wouldn't suggest it. Everything else is a piece of cake, relatively speaking, but time consuming and it sounds like that is what you're short of, well, that and cash. I have that same problem! Wish I had an easy fix for ya. Don't despair, you'll figure something out! Good luck...:luck:

[rsteinmetz70112]

I'm not sure but if it's a stuck valve you may be able to tell by just removing the valve covers, which should be a lot easier that removing the heads.

[Cobrajet]

Does your mechanic have access to an engine borescope (http://www.fiberscope.net/engine-borescope-inspection-automotive)? He would be able to actually look into cyclinder 3 while slowly rotating the engine and see what is going on with the valve train. No need to tear the engine down if it isn't necessary.

[MSHardeman]

I'm not sure but if it's a stuck valve you may be able to tell by just removing the valve covers, which should be a lot easier that removing the heads.

I was thinking the same thing, and may give pulling the valve covers a try this weekend.


Does your mechanic have access to an engine borescope (http://www.fiberscope.net/engine-borescope-inspection-automotive)? He would be able to actually look into cyclinder 3 while slowly rotating the engine and see what is going on with the valve train. No need to tear the engine down if it isn't necessary.

Don't know if they do, or not, but I'll give them a call and find out. If they don't have one, I'll call around and see if I can find someone who does.

Thanks for the suggestions y'all.

[Scott Larson]

Both good suggestions for a preliminary inspection!

[pbkid]

I wish i had a good suggestion for you Mark, because I know how dissapointing it can be to have your VX motor die, its really not much fun.

Not to be harsh but this makes me feel better about mine blowing up. Whenever i tell people that i blew up the motor in my vehicle at 70k miles, they always just tell me, well if you didnt drive it as hard and offroad it as hard it probably would be fine. But you are the perfect example of a person who takes absolutely PERFECT care of his vehicle.

Definately look into the 3.7 H3 motor swap that the guys in Denver were talking about, and also look into the axiom swap as well, they seem like good options.

this is terrible news mark, i feel bad for Vicky and you. Let me know if there is anything i can help you with?

[MSHardeman]

Thanks for the sentiments Jack. I may need to have you look into shops that would be willing to tackle and Isuzu engine rebuild/swap in the Denver area, because there are NO shops in my neck of the woods that even want to get near it.

I have been doing a lot of reading on iamironman's Axiom engine swap, and if my motor truely is kaput, then this seems like a great option. Again, just need to find a shop that would be willing to give it a shot.

I don't remember seeing the H3 engine swap, so I guess I'll have to do some research on that too. Want to keep the TOD, and don't want to replace the transmission too (don't have enough fundage), so definitely need an engine that won't overpower the transmission horse power limit.

[evillecutter]

mine was idling like crap and i had all kinds of gas coming out the exhaust - sounded like it was misfiring or something and i was about 2 seconds from pulling off the intake manifold - i replaced the $20 idle control valve first, reset the computer, and it runs awesome now - did you replace the spark plug after the cylinder was filled with gas? reset the computer?

[MSHardeman]

Mine has been consistantly throwing a cylinder three misfire code, so I have a feeling the problem lies there. I have replaced the spark plug, and this past weekend I had the positive battery cable disconnected for most of the day on Saturday, but she's still running like poop. With no compression in the third cylinder, I'm concentrating my efforts there.

Haven't found anyone with a bore scope yet, but found a few cheap "scope" cameras on ebay that might do the trick for me to take a look in that cylinder to see if the valves are stuck open. Looked at the shop manual to see how to pull the valve covers off, and it basically tells me to take half the dang engine apart just to pull the cover. That doesn't seem to make sense to me, so I'm going to attempt to get it off without pulling the fan, fan clutch, timing belt covers and timing belt. Hopefully with the valve cover off I will be able to see if one of the valves is stuck.

[H3_VX]

I wish i had a good suggestion for you Mark, because I know how dissapointing it can be to have your VX motor die, its really not much fun.

Not to be harsh but this makes me feel better about mine blowing up. Whenever i tell people that i blew up the motor in my vehicle at 70k miles, they always just tell me, well if you didnt drive it as hard and offroad it as hard it probably would be fine. But you are the perfect example of a person who takes absolutely PERFECT care of his vehicle.

Definately look into the 3.7 H3 motor swap that the guys in Denver were talking about, and also look into the axiom swap as well, they seem like good options.

this is terrible news mark, i feel bad for Vicky and you. Let me know if there is anything i can help you with?

This is what I plan on doing. The 3.7 in my H3 is a great motor, as are most GM motors.

[pbkid]

Mark, the 3.7 H3 motor will bolt right up to the vx tranny and tod will work fine. Very similar power wise and the electronics should be very close.

The positive is that the blocks and parts are readily available, but custom mounts will definately need to be fabbed.

If you need me to run to a few shops and talk to em just let me know. Whatever help you need.

[Buffy]

The valve covers should come off. The driver side might be a bit of a challenge due to the master cylinder/power booster. Passenger side should come right off.

[rsteinmetz70112]

Which side in #3 on? You probably only need to pull the valve cover on that side.

[VX crazy]

Wow, where the heck have I been?? I am so sorry to hear about this Mark!

[MSHardeman]

The valve covers should come off. The driver side might be a bit of a challenge due to the master cylinder/power booster. Passenger side should come right off.

Buffy, that's kind of what I figured after looking at it this morning. I don't understand why the shop manual has you disconnect the battery, drain the radiator, remove the fan, remove the fan clutch, remove the timing belt covers and the timing belt. That's crazy just to remove the valve cover.

rsteinmetz70112, #3 is the center cylinder on the passenger side, and I plan on pulling just that valve cover this weekend to see if I can see a stuck valve or any other annomoly on that side.

For future reference the cylinders are numbered:

Passenger side: #1 (closest to radiator), #3, #5 (closest to fire wall)
Drivers side: #2 (closest to radiator), #4, #6 (closest to fire wall)




Where HAVE you been Lisa? Having too much fun piddling around in Bob I'm sure.:p

[MSHardeman]

Mark, the 3.7 H3 motor will bolt right up to the vx tranny and tod will work fine. Very similar power wise and the electronics should be very close.

The positive is that the blocks and parts are readily available, but custom mounts will definately need to be fabbed.

If you need me to run to a few shops and talk to em just let me know. Whatever help you need.

Thanks for the offer Jack. At most I'll probably go the Axiom engine route. Need something to just drop in and go. Don't have the time or money to put into fabbing up new mounts, or figuring out intake and computer issues.

Probably need to go with a rebuilt engine too. Just never know what you're going to get with a used engine. Wonder if anyone is re-building Axiom engines.:wtfb:

[rsteinmetz70112]

Are the codes based on cylinder number or firing order?

[H3_VX]

I wish i had a good suggestion for you Mark, because I know how dissapointing it can be to have your VX motor die, its really not much fun.

Not to be harsh but this makes me feel better about mine blowing up. Whenever i tell people that i blew up the motor in my vehicle at 70k miles, they always just tell me, well if you didnt drive it as hard and offroad it as hard it probably would be fine. But you are the perfect example of a person who takes absolutely PERFECT care of his vehicle.

Definately look into the 3.7 H3 motor swap that the guys in Denver were talking about, and also look into the axiom swap as well, they seem like good options.

this is terrible news mark, i feel bad for Vicky and you. Let me know if there is anything i can help you with?

Are there any threads about said 3.7 motor swap. Hell, if there is a write up about and someone who experienced this swap already, i'd do it now, while my engine still functions.

[MSHardeman]

Are the codes based on cylinder number or firing order?

The code is "Cylinder Three Misfire Detected" so I believe it is tied to the cylinder and not the firing order. Also, my cylinder three spark plug is all boogered up with soot, while the others look just fine.

[Gizmo42]

Sorry to hear about Vicky. I dont have much to add on options for #3, a scope camera is the best option to figure out things without tearing the whole engine apart.

129 on #1 cylinder may not be all that low considering your elevation. It's been a long time since I've done a compression test on anything but I know it's always way lower then spec because of the altitude, and you are higher altitude then I am.

[H3_VX]

I wish i had a good suggestion for you Mark, because I know how dissapointing it can be to have your VX motor die, its really not much fun.

Not to be harsh but this makes me feel better about mine blowing up. Whenever i tell people that i blew up the motor in my vehicle at 70k miles, they always just tell me, well if you didnt drive it as hard and offroad it as hard it probably would be fine. But you are the perfect example of a person who takes absolutely PERFECT care of his vehicle.

Definately look into the 3.7 H3 motor swap that the guys in Denver were talking about, and also look into the axiom swap as well, they seem like good options.

this is terrible news mark, i feel bad for Vicky and you. Let me know if there is anything i can help you with?

What guys in Denver are you referring to? I'm interested in joining that conversation. I would also like to know if I could replace the Isuzu transmission with a GM 4L60-E along with the LLR 3.7L.

[Scott Larson]

I truly feel for anyone that blows an engine in anything, but it really is not the end of the world. All things mechanical eventually fail and what you do afterwards is what keeps things interesting. With all the possibilities that have been discussed on this forum and the countless others yet to be discovered, it's kinda like reincarnation of the mechanical kind. Im still waiting for the turbo-diesel conversion with a six speed manual...Maybe after I blow mine up! :_steering

[H3_VX]

I truly feel for anyone that blows an engine in anything, but it really is not the end of the world. All things mechanical eventually fail and what you do afterwards is what keeps things interesting. With all the possibilities that have been discussed on this forum and the countless others yet to be discovered, it's kinda like reincarnation of the mechanical kind. Im still waiting for the turbo-diesel conversion with a six speed manual...Maybe after I blow mine up! :_steering

I like optimistic people. Kudos. I'm not worried about mechanicals (tranny, engine, etc.) I'm just concerned about the cheap Isuzu frames that rot like its nobodies business. LOL! Mine is showing some pretty good rust. Just had to fix a rust hole last month in my rocker. Well, gonna have someone give me an estimate on sandblasting and por-15 before this winter. After my undercarriage is taken care of by a pro i'll be content with whatever else happens. :winky:

[Scott Larson]

I somehow got really lucky when I bought mine sight unseen. It came out of West Monroe Louisianna without a speck of rust, lots-o-miles, but no rust!

[H3_VX]

I somehow got really lucky when I bought mine sight unseen. It came out of West Monroe Louisianna without a speck of rust, lots-o-miles, but no rust!

LUCKY SOB. LOL!

[tomdietrying]

Mark, sorry to hear the news.
Peace.
Tom

[Mile High VX]

Hey Mark that is so sad....

If you determine that you'll be doing the work yourself at some point I'd be glad to help!

[pbkid]

What guys in Denver are you referring to? I'm interested in joining that conversation. I would also like to know if I could replace the Isuzu transmission with a GM 4L60-E along with the LLR 3.7L.

I dont remember the specific thread but there was a shop in Denver that was working on doing a 3.7 H3 swap into the VX, and also working on a grand prix swap too, if i remember correctly. Maybe one of the forum search guru's can help us out?

[H3_VX]

I dont remember the specific thread but there was a shop in Denver that was working on doing a 3.7 H3 swap into the VX, and also working on a grand prix swap too, if i remember correctly. Maybe one of the forum search guru's can help us out?

VXKAT to the rescue perhaps?............

[pbkid]

VXKAT to the rescue perhaps?............

haha, you even posted in this thread-

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=21780&highlight=H3+Swap

[H3_VX]

haha, you even posted in this thread-

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=21780&highlight=H3+Swap

LOL, Yup, I remember this thread, but its mostly about the LH8 V8, not the LLR I5. I believe i'm the one who brought the LLR into the conversation.

[MSHardeman]

Just a quick update; pulled the valve cover this past weekend to see if I had a valve hanging open but, alas, that wasn't the problem. Everything looked just perfect under there. No wear, no gunk, no build-up.

Have an appointment on Friday with a mechanic to do a leak down test. They will pump air into the cylinder to see if it holds any air (I doubt it will with no compression in that cylinder). If it doesn't hold air, they will then continue to pump air into the cylinder and try to listen where it's coming out. If they hear it coming out of the exhaust pipe then it's an exhaust valve problem. If they hear it coming out of the intake/throttle body, then it's an intake valve problem. If they hear it coming out of the dipstick, or see the oil bubble, then it's a cylinder problem (hole in the piston, blown rings, scarred cylinder).

Oh boy, can't wait!! (that was sarcasm)

[MSHardeman]

Well, it's official (for sure this time), Vicki needs a new heart.:(

Went and had a compression test and cylinder leakage test done on the engine this morning and the results weren't good for cylinder three. In the compression test all cylinders had 153 to 157 PSI except cylinder three which read 40 PSI. When they performed the leakage test cylinder three didn't hold any air, or oil, at all. As they pumped air into the cylinder they clearly heard the oil bubbling by listening at the dipstick tube. That means that the valves are sealing fine, but either the rings are shot, there is something wrong with the piston, or there is something wrong with the cylinder itself. There's no way to really tell what is going on in there without tearing the engine down.

Could tear my engine down and try to re-build it, but who knows what we'll find once we get in there and that could keep the VX down longer than I can be without it. Might also find out that it isn't re-buildable at all, which would be even more time and money that I can't afford to spend. Guess it's time to start looking for a new engine.

[Scott Larson]

Sorry to hear that Mark, I was hoping it was a "simple" valve problem. I'll be glad to help if I can...

[MSHardeman]

I dropped Vicki off at the surgeons this morning and she should be going under the knife very soon. She was a little scared and nervous, but I held her tire and told her that everything was going to be just fine and that when she woke up she would feel like a kid again. I also let her know that we would need to take it easy for a little while, but that we would be tearing it up both on and off road before she knew it.

I have to say that the new Isuzu engine was VERY pretty and VERY complete with only minor things needing to be switched over from the old engine. It was still in the crate with plastic covering it, but I did get some pictures that I will share when I can get them off my phone. One of the pieces of paper stapled to the crate said that the engine had a manufacture date of October 2011. Super cool, because I thought that it was a "new" engine from 2001 or so.

[VXorado]

:dance:

Does Vicki have an ETA for completion?

[JoFotoz]

Get well soon Viki!!

Jo

[MSHardeman]

:dance:

Does Vicki have an ETA for completion?

The surgeon.....ummm, mechanic......thinks that they MIGHT be able to get it done by tomorrow evening, but it may push into Tuesday (due to the holiday) sometime. I also asked them to clean the fuel injectors and split the common chamber apart and give it a good cleaning too because the last time I looked in there it was covered with oil gunk.

Can't wait to have Vicki back to full power.

[Gussie2000]

Good for you hard !

Make full sense get her a new engine if you gonna keep for the long time instead of getting into a car loan.

Wll you share how much $$$ the engine cost ?

[Triathlete]

Glad to hear you are getting her squared away Mark!

[Mile High VX]

Congrats Mark!

I'd do the same for mine...

Hope she's back in your hands soon...:bwgy::smilewink:bgwo::bgwb:

[VXorado]

Can't wait to have Vicki back to full power.

I bet you're excited. :smilewink

My engine has been chugging a little recently, probably nothing but the exhaust sounds a bit like Vicki's in Moab. I haven't noticed any difference in power or had CELs, it's just the way it sounds. I'm changing spark plugs tomorrow and I'm hoping that will make the engine purr. I'll admit, i'm a little worried i'm developing the same issue... hopefully its just in my head. :(

[MSHardeman]

Wll you share how much $$$ the engine cost ?

OK, I PM'd this info to Gussie earlier and asked him to keep it under wraps until I talked to Jerry Lemond to see if it was OK with him to release the price. Just got a message back from Jerry and he said that it is OK to release the price of the engine and that he would be happy to help anyone else out if they needed/wanted a new engine too. I won't post it up here just to make sure that he doesn't get swamped, but I would be happy to PM anyone his email address so you can get in touch with him. When he ordered my engine last Monday there were only 15 of them left in the country.

Through Jerry I ended up paying $5700 for the brand new, zero miles Isuzu engine. Merlin was quoting $6500-$6700 for what I can only guess is the same engine. Again, these engines are BRAND NEW and they come with just about everything on them. They even have spark plugs already installed. The only things that you need to swap over from the old engine are the coil packs, fuel injectors, fuel injection rails, the intake manifold and maybe the fan clutch/fan assembly (I can't remember if it was there when I looked at the engine in the crate). From what Jerry tells me these engines have the updated pistons and rings and do not have the oil burning issues that some of the original engines have. He has one of these engines in his Trooper and has 166,000 miles on it, with the last 60,000 miles being super charged, and has not burned a drop of oil in all that time.

Jerry said that the $5700 price is only good for 30 days, or so, as everytime he gets a new quote the price seems to go up a bit.

Jerry also just sent me an email with a picture on where to drill the extra oil drain holes in the existing pistons. It, sort of, makes sense to me, but I will start a new thread with his instructions and the picture in case someone wants to attempt to drill the extra holes in their pistons. I may actually give this a try once I tear into my old engine to see exactly what happened to it.

If you have any questions about anything post them here for everyone's benefit, or PM me and I'll answer what I can.

GO FARTHER!!

[MSHardeman]

Just wanted to update everyone about what has gone on with Vicki's heart transplant:

We're about a month and a half, and 3,000 miles into the engine transplant and everything is going well. I don't want to say that the new motor doesn't burn ANY oil because I did have to add just a little bit the other day during a gas stop, but that is the first time that I have had to add oil in nearly 3000 miles. Since I used to have to add 3/4 of a quart every 300 miles, the new engine is a VAST improvement over the old one. The new engine does run a few degrees warmer than the old one did, but the mechanic said that is normal due to the tight tolerances with the new engine and it should run cooler as everything breaks in.

There were/are a couple of issues that happened during the swap. Apparently the mechanic had to drop the front axle out of the way in order to get to some bolts either on the starter or on the bell housing (can't remember which). When they did that the passenger side inner CV boot tore so they had to replace the boot. We are all still waiting on a new sensor that connects to the steering box, I think. Apparently, and this took a while to figure out, it senses when the VX is at a low speed and bumps up the RPM's of the motor to allow the steering pump to work harder thus making it easier to steer. The wire leading to this sensor had been broken for a while so it must not be all that important to the operation of the VX, but we figured that we should replace it to get everything back to factory. The sensor is on extreme backorder and won't be in from Isuzu until November sometime. Either way, I'm still driving Vicki and everything seems to be going fine so we'll just replace the sensor when it comes in.

One other issue that has popped up is a knock sensor throwing a check engine light. The knock sensor was moved from the old engine to the new one so who knows what's going on with it. The check engine light only comes on when I hit 35 to 40 mph the first time after starting the VX. If I clear it then it won't come on again until I stop the VX and turn the key off. The next time I start the car, whether it's 10 minutes or 10 hours later, the CEL will come back on the next time I hit 35 to 40 mph. It's got me a little baffled, but since I can't hear any knocking in the engine I can only guess that the sensor itself is bad.

All in all I'm extremely happy with the new engine and it's great to have Vicki back on the road again.:dance:

[Ldub]

Good to hear for the most part Mark...:thumbup:

I'm happy FOR you!...:yesgray:

[pbkid]

good on you mark! are we going to see the new motor next weekend? :naughty:

[MSHardeman]

Jack, unfortunately I won't be there next weekend. I would love to go to meet some more of the fam, but I have a soccer game at 12:45 on Sunday so unless someone has perfected transporters, or time travel, I'll have to stick around my neck of the woods. Make sure to take lots of pictures and post them up as soon as you can.

[VXorado]

Mark, have you noticed a power increase driving up those mountain roads with the fresh engine, compared to before you started having issues on cylinder 3?

[VX crazy]

Great news, been wondering how the swap went!

[spaceCADETzoom]

Oh man, I wish you'd been looking for engines when mine blew up last year. I don't remember what I paid, I think less, but it was a remanufactured one, and I would have liked to have had known about an option for something new, with these supposed updated piston rings. I don't know if I've seen a decrease in oil consumption, but I do know there is still some with mine.

[Mile High VX]

Good for you Mark...well done.