Window Regulator

[tomdietrying]

Anyone know what comparable part can substitute for our OME window regulator?
Peace.
Tom

[RickOKC]

I'll be watching this thread. :)

I need a replacement for the driver's side. Actually may need the vertical guide. The white bushings on mine are worn & wobbly which keeps me from getting the window positioned just right to prevent wind noise.

[tom4bren]

Tom,

I just replaced my drivers side regulator with the one from vt_mav's old Foxfire. I noticed that those plastic guides were damaged on my old one. I'm going to see if I can come up with a kit to upgrade those. I'll keep you posted.

As you've seen in the past though - don't hold your breath waiting on me. If you source a replacement ... go for it.

Tom

[mdwyer]

VXorado and I found a workable one in some other Isuzu in the junkyard, but it took a looooong time. There are quite a few of them out there, and it seems most of them are wrong. Sadly, I didn't pay any attention whatsoever to what machine I finally ended up taking the parts from. Jon might remember.

For what it is worth, the plastic on all of them was brittle if not already broken. Still, it seems to be okay if the block part is broken so long as the clip is still there to hold onto the rail. Note that the SBC window fix MIGHT cause that clip to fail quicker if the bracket is hitting the top of the track and pushing the trolley off the rail.

[tomdietrying]

Man, where is Ldub or Sue on this subject? I know they have the answer.
Peace.
Tom

[MSHardeman]

Tom, I think Sue is selling a window regulator in another thread. Maybe shoot her a PM because I can't find the thread right now.

Got it: http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?threadid=22903

[tomdietrying]

Thanks Mark! Doing it right now.
Peace.
Tom

[ColoradoVX]

Has anyone come up with a replacement for the plastic clip that attaches the window to the regulator? Isuzu tells me that it only comes as part of the window. Amazing. The window is fine... just need the 2-cent piece of plastic that is glued to the window and bolts to the regulator.

[nfpgasmask]

What happened to the guy that was making the metal replacements...can't think of the name off the top of my head....

Bart

PS - On the regulator, do Trooper or Rodeo regulators work?

[VxSport]

One of our next projects is too replace both side with an aftermarket kit. I replaces the center rail, guides, and moter. all metal components. Unit is designed for a curved glass.

I made new window clips out of metal...couple years ago.

Isuzu didn't use this window regulator in any other vehicle.... I don't know about the Axium though

[89Vette]

http://www.streetboutiquecustoms.com/vx.html

[89Vette]

BTW...From what I can see/tell, the regulators are the problem. If the regulators weren't plastic, I don't believe those plastic window clips would receive the lateral play necessary to break them.

Having another regulator would be the best option IMO.

[tomdietrying]

I haven't taken off my door panel to actually look at the window regulator, but I have bought the VX window clips from streetboutiquecustoms.com. Will those solve the problem or just help it a bit.
Peace.
Tom

[89Vette]

Here's a possibility....

http://www.kmjent.com/cart/flat-glass-power-window-conversion-kit.html

[VxSport]

I am planning on doing a kit like this one.... however this one says it's a flat glass kit. The one that I had planned on using was a universal curved glass kit. I would have to get the part # and supplier from the shop in the next couple days.

but it was basicly the same thing.... replacing our faulty cable & plastic guides with a metal center track and metal gears.

[VX KAT]

Has anyone come up with a replacement for the plastic clip that attaches the window to the regulator? Isuzu tells me that it only comes as part of the window. Amazing. The window is fine... just need the 2-cent piece of plastic that is glued to the window and bolts to the regulator.


http://www.streetboutiquecustoms.com/vx.html
Tim Parker of StreetBoutiqueCustoms.com
Makes the metal brackets toreplace the small white plastic ones that attach to the glass.
I happen to live in his vicinity so I had him install them in my truck, there's pics in my gallery of him doing it and shows what they look like.
MANY of us have bought thee from Tim, and it almost always (but not all) solves the window binding problem. Charges about $65 for a set of 2.

Also makes Metal replacement knobs for the 4 plastic knobs on the spare tire cover.


There's a Passenger side Regulator on ebay for $49 (it's listed as a lock actuator...but that's apparently wrong..the pic is of a regulator)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130780297849&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123#ht_1318wt_653

[VX KAT]

For reference:
Here's pics of both Driver and Passenger Regulator. One laying on bubble wrap is brand new Passenger side, other one is Driver side - used, and still has the window motor attached.

ON pic #2, it appears the white plastic pulley type thing in one of the corners on the used one has partially broken off....yet it appears it still functions that way???

DRIVER -USED
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/PARTS/DSCN2239.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/PARTS/DSCN2240.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/PARTS/DSCN2241.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/PARTS/DSCN2244.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/PARTS/DSCN2247-1.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/PARTS/DSCN2257.jpg






PASSENGER - NEW
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/PARTS/DSCN2243.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/PARTS/DSCN2255.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/PARTS/DSCN2256.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/PARTS/DSCN2251.jpg

[Marlin]

Ok, from my junkyard experiences:
The motors are interchangeable. I took the motor out of a trooper and swapped into our regulator.
You can get an entire new assembly from isuzuparts for 100 bucks shipped to your door in <5 days.
I did the tab upgrade from Tim. Worked awesome on driver's side, until my cable broke and eh on the passenger side. Better than it was, but even with the glass moved as far back as I can get it, still wants to rock forward if I roll all the way down. The plastic guide on the center rail is just too worn.
Consensus, the plastic guide on the center rail is the problem, as well as the fact that the center rail curve does not match the curve the window must travel, poor engineering.

[KRemo]

I just replaced the regulator and the clips that i used were an assortment pack for GM models that I got at Autozone. The smaller of the set fit the window and the stock bolts fit perfect glued on with 3M windshield poly. That was over 6 months ago and they are like brand new. I can get the part number for the clips next time I'm at Autozone if that helps.

[Leon R]

I am looking to replace the motor (at it just clicks, when I actuate it by itself). Advance autoparts lists several part numbers for Vehicross, ranging from $24+ core to $134+core! That is quite a range! Has anyone tried their motors?

[Leon R]

Another observation, replacement motors for driver's and passenger sides appear to be different, is this really true? If so, what is the difference?

[Chopper]

I was gonna say....most of the pieces/parts are GM. Those plastic clips are used in all sorts of Saturn, Chevy, and Pontiac mmidsized cars. Regulators too. Take your parts to a bigger Chevy stealership....they'll match about all of it. Isuzu still has them too, I'm sure

[Leon R]

My DS window was totally STUCK! I removed the Motor/Actuator and it was stuck. Even the window itself was stuck in its rails!

My motor/actuator assembly looked very nice on the outside:

http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae215/grndsm/5A13BAB7-DF08-412A-91A7-4F898EAE0C95-26248-00001B876EC5333A.jpg

However, taking apart the motor told a very different story!

http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae215/grndsm/AAF8DE51-BFBB-4425-B9D4-74BECAFCA2E5-26248-00001B87D2139001.jpg

http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae215/grndsm/D869FC14-2B2F-47A1-AD2A-AA3CB88CBA75-26248-00001B87DE664660.jpg

It almost looks like at one point, it was partially full of water!

It appears that the rest of my mechanism is just fine, but I do need a new motor! I do not feel like getting another good looking, but ruined on the inside, used motor. What is the best "new/remanufactured" option?

EDIT: I ended up ordering "Cardone Remanufactured Window Lift Motor Part No: 47-4308" from Advance Autoparts. It was $132 - 20% discount. I will let everyone know how it works out.

[tomdietrying]

Sue,
I installed the passenger side window regulator. I'm waiting a couple of days for the glue to set up in this cold weather before I try it out. In the meantime, do you have any leads on a driver's side window regulator?
Thanks.
Tom

[VX KAT]

Sue,
I installed the passenger side window regulator. I'm waiting a couple of days for the glue to set up in this cold weather before I try it out. In the meantime, do you have any leads on a driver's side window regulator?
Thanks.
Tom

Maybe check with the several owners parting out a truck now…
Look on ebay for a seller selling any VX part and contact them to see if they might also have the regulator.
A new regulator is about $95 from Merlin, and they're available.

[Leon R]

Cardone motor looks like a perfect match! I did have to cut and splice the original connector (replacement motor came with a pigtail and a pair of vampire clips for splicing... naturally, I saldered it instead...).

I was also able to determine why it was so rusty on the inside! New motor came with "u-shaped" vent tube. The vent hole points to the top and this vent tube prevent water from entering the motor. Needless to say, my old motor didn't have that tube! So it must have been filling up with water at every rain! Make sure you do not loose this tube (as it is easy to remove without noticing it!).

Two motors side by side (with and without the tube).

http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae215/grndsm/B176F24F-DCE1-4C12-B82D-ADB616660163-31233-0000203E4F62BB5D.jpg

Now I have a working window with what appears to be a very worn regulator :(. I do not wan to bother with another used one, so what are the best new options? I see that Merlin has them for around $95, but what about aftermarket peplacements?

[Allison3371]

I just ordered a regulator for my passenger side from Merlins place. He was on vacation but Dennis helped me. It was a back order but it's on its way now. It took 10 days. It was only $90 I believe with no taxes and free shipping. My local dealer wanted almost $200. Kat had informed me about the aftermarket fix but I opted for the easy way now option... I want to tint the windows and need it fixed now. I plan to do it right this summer when it isn't so friggin cold out and I can do it myself.

[Allison3371]

OH JOY! So today I took my VX to my mechanic to install the new regulator. (As much as I wanted to do this myself, my lack of free time is minimal) It's installed BUT it's binding in the front. The rubber guide is split and he says that is causing it to bind...He said that's what broke the regulator and has instructed me to buy that and he will put it in. I see it really is split, but wondering if this really is my issue. I read a few of the posts (thanks Kat for putting the links all together) and I see there are other reasons it could be doing this. Anyone replace this rubber guide thingamadoobie with success on correcting the binding issue?

[VX KAT]

OH JOY! So today I took my VX to my mechanic to install the new regulator. (As much as I wanted to do this myself, my lack of free time is minimal) It's installed BUT it's binding in the front. The rubber guide is split and he says that is causing it to bind...He said that's what broke the regulator and has instructed me to buy that and he will put it in. I see it really is split, but wondering if this really is my issue. I read a few of the posts (thanks Kat for putting the links all together) and I see there are other reasons it could be doing this. Anyone replace this rubber guide thingamadoobie with success on correcting the binding issue?

I'm not sure exactly what you mean by the rubber guide is "split"…:_thinking. Are you talking about the rubber strip the edge of the the glass goes into?

If it's that one, it goes around the glass edge, then down IN FRONT of the tweeter panel, where I'm pointing.

This is the rubber channel we suggest be kept lubed with something like pure silicone spray, or Teflon silicone. It has several channels within it, (not just the channel the glass edge goes in) and I wonder if that's what your guy means by "split"?

Also, some of us have widened the FRONT vertical metal track that rubber ppiece fits in to. I found that's where my window seemed to slow down a bit when going through the top part of that metal track. So I keep the entire front vertical part of the rubber strip well lubed there

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/PARTS/DSCN8084.jpg



http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/PARTS/DSCN7891.jpg


http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/PARTS/DSCN7895.jpg





WIDENING the metal track, so the rubber gasket has more room, so the glass edge doesn't get squeezed as tight and add silicone lubricant so the glass slides easily within the rubber channel.


1st pic BELOW has the rubber channel within the metal track, and the window edge is within rubber track.
2nd pic shows I pulled rubber away, and used a screwdriver to widen the metal "C" track. See all the scratches on the side of the vertical metal track, that's from me also using various pliers to bend and widen the track.

You can completely remove the rubber gasket, it's comes out/in very easy.
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/WINDOWS%20-%20ALL%20ASPECTS/DSCN0824-1.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/WINDOWS%20-%20ALL%20ASPECTS/DSCN1503-Version2-1.jpg

Hoep this helps!

[tom4bren]

Allison,

If you want a temporary fix till you can get a replacement seal, just cut the seal where Sue's finger is pointed in the first pic. Trash the piece in the front track & replace with felt weather strip from Home Depot or Lowes. I ran mine like that for several years till I finally got off my arse & put in an OEM seal I got from Sue. There are probably still pix of it in my gallery if you want to take the time to sift through all those pages.:)

Tom

[VX KAT]

Allison,

If you want a temporary fix till you can get a replacement seal, just cut the seal where Sue's finger is pointed in the first pic. Trash the piece in the front track & replace with felt weather strip from Home Depot or Lowes. I ran mine like that for several years till I finally got off my arse & put in an OEM seal I got from Sue. There are probably still pix of it in my gallery if you want to take the time to sift through all those pages.:)

Tom

She toldme the front vertical rubber gasket is all ripped and twisted, so I mentioned your fix when we spoke by phone, although I told her to cut it off a little further down, at the base of the tweeter panel. And told her to try your felt weatherstripping idea. :thumbup:
She was losing daylight so she would get back to it later.

[Allison3371]

I'm going to try cutting the seal until I can get the part. Sue explained how easy it is to take the door panels off and take a looksee at what's really going on in there. Unfortunately the VX is on jack stands right now. I took the rear rims off to plastidip them. My first try, I had some peeling....then I ran out of daylight...then locked my keys in the VX. It was time to quit for the day. haha.I'm taking a second try and so far so good. It's cold and rainy here though, so until that project is finished, I'm stuck. I really want to see if I can tell that the binding is indeed being caused by the rubber guide and nothing else. My mechanic told me he had to remove all the door guts again to replace that, but Sue says that's not true. I have lost faith in my mechanic and I will try to tackle it myself. I've been trying to get Merlin's place on the phone since Friday to order the part anyway, but no luck yet. So, I probably won't have this fixed for a couple more weeks. :(

[tom4bren]

You'll have to remove the inside door panel & the window glass to do the mod. You do NOT have to remove the regulator.

When I got my VX, the rubber weatherstrip was torn & bunching up so that the window got jammed in there pretty tight. I had no other option than to remove the damaged section of the weather strip & replace with felt until I quit procrastinating & got the right part.

The only problem I encountered when switching back to the OEM weatherstrip was that I used some high grade adhesive to glue the felt in place. It was a som-na-beech to remove.

If you want to take a road trip to Fredericksburg, we could knock it out in about 30 minutes. I probably won't be back in Williamsburg area till March.

[VX KAT]

As I understood her, mechanic told her he had to remove basically all the door guts to remove the twisted/torn rubber weatherstrip/gasket piece in the metal channel area. But on mine, I know I pulled out the top and rear portion, then pulled UP on the remaining front strip and it came right out of that front metal channel, all the way out.

Only difference, mine was not ripped or bunched up, so that might make a little difference in how easy it is to pull it up and out.
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*** oh, one tip I forgot to mention to her
when messing with the metal channel trying to widen it, be real careful not to let pliers slip off and hit the inside skin of metal door shell..you don't want a wrench imprint on your door...

[tom4bren]

Nah. If the weather strip is bunched up then it's already pulled loose from the track and it should come out real easy. IIRC, when I finally replaced the entire strip, the rubber was just held on by friction. There's no adhesive. So inside door panel & glass are all that need to be removed (actually a very easy process that only takes about 10 minutes).

[VX KAT]

Nah. If the weather strip is bunched up then it's already pulled loose from the track and it should come out real easy. IIRC, when I finally replaced the entire strip, the rubber was just held on by friction. There's no adhesive. So inside door panel & glass are all that need to be removed (actually a very easy process that only takes about 10 minutes).

But you only have to remove the GLASS if you're trying to install something like the felt, right? I didn't have to remove the glass at all, just yanked the strip, and put in a brand new one, all w/o removing glass.

[tom4bren]

Then you must have magic fingers. I don't know how you'd get the weatherstrip in place with the glass still engaged with the tracks. The window will still be in the track even in the lowest position.

Even if you can, it would probably be quicker & more easier to remove the glass since it's literally a matter of 2 bolts, tilt & slide out.

Of course, if your windows are tinted, you have to be much more careful on the 'slide out' part.

[VX KAT]

Then you must have magic fingers. I don't know how you'd get the weatherstrip in place with the glass still engaged with the tracks. The window will still be in the track even in the lowest position.

Even if you can, it would probably be quicker & more easier to remove the glass since it's literally a matter of 2 bolts, tilt & slide out.

Of course, if your windows are tinted, you have to be much more careful on the 'slide out' part.


I'd cleaned the metal channel, and treated every square inch of the new rubber strip with 303 andput a little Silicone spray in the rubber track where the glass goes.
Then, with glass in place, I was able to feed the rubber strip down some, and then grab it from underneath and pull it down into place. I used the electric window to position the glass where it made it easiest to get the rubber strip where I wanted it. The window edge actually pushed the rubber right into place, worked great.

And you're right, the rubber strip is just held in by friction, no glue.

And watching Tim remove the glass when installing my SBC brackets made me quite sure neither Dave or I was gonna touch it! KISS!
(bet ya'll didn't know that last S stood for Sue did ya?)

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/DSCN0821.jpghttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/DSCN0816.jpghttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/DSCN0799.jpghttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/DSCN0798.jpg

[Allison3371]

OK, New issue, can really use some help. I got the rubber track in...the new regulator that the shop replaced a few weeks ago...and it's all hooked up. BUT, the glass is still rocking forward and I THINK I see why. The little plastic clip on the regulator is coming detached from the track causing it to not stay horizontally flat. Is this a common problem? I did widen the front track and moved it a little. It really did help, it's not as bad, but still binding. It is not jumping off the side window track anymore though.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/2013-01-27_12_51_57.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/23234)

The top white plactic guide is not on the track at all but the buttom one is. There is no way to "push" it back either. :(

Help?

[Allison3371]

Also, I tried the washer fix, but the bottom white piece is already tight against the guide/track. When I added the washers, it put too much strain on the bottom white plastic piece.

[tom4bren]

Is this a common problem?

Yes it is. Those little plastic pieces are really the source of all our woes.

I've got a drivers side regulator in my garage with those pieces all goobered up. Soon I will have the passenger side as well. My plan is to try & find something to 'fix' the regulator rather than replace it.

In the mean time, if you unbolt the glass from the regulator it should give you enough freedom to get that top guide back on the regulator. It may not stay though since the piece that grabs the track on the regulator is broken off. You need to get that piece back in place before you do anything else.

My washer fix (that pushed the upsy downsy thinggy against the track of the regulator) only bought me about 18 months before the regulator was too goobered up to work anymore.

:slap:

You can certainly tell that I've discussed this topic at length with Sue ... her VX verbiage has rubbed off on me.

[VX KAT]

My washer fix (that pushed the upsy downsy thinggy against the track of the regulator) only bought me about 18 months before the regulator was too goobered up to work anymore.

:slap:

You can certainly tell that I've discussed this topic at length with Sue ... her VX verbiage has rubbed off on me.

Ouch .:goof:

[tom4bren]

I just found out that my replacement passenger window regulator isn't going to happen so it looks like I'll be trying to fix my old one rather than replace it. I'll keep you posted.

[yellowgizmo99]

hey Tom see if they will throw in the regulator, can maybe use it to work up a fix on the guides.

[tom4bren]

I thought about that but I didn't want to use the same pieces that keep breaking. What I'd ideally like to find is something that is available nation wide that could be clipped or glued on.

IIRC someone found out that the plastic clips that attach the glass to the regulator are fairly common parts. Maybe these guides are too.

[yellowgizmo99]

that's what I was thinking, just thought if we had something in hand that didn't have to stay in the VX might be handy.

[tom4bren]

I'll start with the extra drivers side regulator that I have on hand. The parts should be the same for both sides.

[Allison3371]

My regulator is new....and I didn't install it, but I thought those white thingies were part of the new regulator. You'd think with all new parts, it would work...at least for a while. Maybe I should take it to the dealer and let them figure it out? Is this a common problem to other Isuzus?

[tom4bren]

Those white guides were part of the new regulator. They may not have been in proper position when it was installed. Once the regulator is in place and the glass attached, those guides should stay in place (at least until the keeper part breaks off).

I don't know if other Isuzu's had similar problems. IIRC most other Isuzu windows are flat while ours are curved. That may make the problem unique to the VehiCross.

If I can get out of work early enough to hit the parts store, maybe I can come up with a quick solution for you. The regulator I'll be 'operating' on is an extra so if I can fix it, you can beta test it for us.

[Allison3371]

I have been staring at the picture for the past 48 hours. I can't think of a solution besides making that top guide clip thingy deeper. But you're right... My Mechanic may not have installed properly. I might try to unassemble completely and do it again.

[tom4bren]

I hate that you have to go through all of this ... but on the bright side, you'll know more about the guts of the door than most people on the forum.:)

My recommendation is to unbolt the glass from the regulator. Get the guides back on the track. Bolt the glass back to the regulator. Run the window up & down a few times before you put the door panels back in place. Don't forget to add more lubricant (lithium grease or graphite) to the tracks before you close it up (this is the rare occasion where "mo' is betta" ... you can't put too much lubricant on our window weatherstrip).

When you unbolt the glass from the regulator, it may be helpful to have a couple of suction cups on hand. Push the glass all the way up & put a suction cup at the front and back of the glass as low as possible. When you let go of the glass, the suction cups should hold the glass out of the way whilst you are working on the regulator. Don't laugh. The drivers side winder on my old Land Cruiser was held closed by suction cups for several years that way (yup, Toyota didn't get their regulator any better & it went KA-BLOOEY ... different failure mode though). It even made it through inspection that way.

EDIT:

You may find that after you get the upper guide back in place, you can do the washer thinggy to keep it aligned properly. With the top guide off, that part of the regulator is being held at an angle which is causing the lower guide to have more pressure on it.

[VX KAT]

it went KA-BLOOEY

is that a technical term mr. enginerd?? :thumbup:

[tom4bren]

is that a technical term mr. enginerd?? :thumbup:

In this case, yes! It was a scissor lift mechanism with rollers on the cross bar. When the roller gave up the ghost, it made a very distinctive KA-BLOOEY sound.

:slap:

Ya shudda known better than to try & out technoid me! Didn't the mayor learn you better-n that?

[Allison3371]

I'm still staring at the picture. haha. I'm thinking if Tom's genius regulator mind can't think of what can possibly help, I'm taking it to Little Joe's Isuzu on Friday. I would like to think they would "have" to find a way to fix it. :)

[VX KAT]

I'm still staring at the picture. haha. I'm thinking if Tom's genius regulator mind can't think of what can possibly help, I'm taking it to Little Joe's Isuzu on Friday. I would like to think they would "have" to find a way to fix it. :)

why don't you take some pics and post them. That should really help the enginerd I'd think.
Let me know if you need help on how to post pics.
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:slap: :wave:

[Allison3371]

I put one on the thread I think on page 3. I can take more Thursday when I'm home.

[tom4bren]

I checked out my spare ... 'deformed' regulator. It looks like only one of the little white plastic guides is the problem. It's the lonely one ... the other side has two. The two guides (IIRC on the trailing edge of window) are much beefier than the lonely one.

Any-hoo, the white guides don't look like they can be removed and certainly not available at my corner store auto parts place.

So: I went to my local Ace Hardware (LOVE that place ... sorta reminds me of a Mayberry RFD setting). After perusing the aisles for a while, waiting for inspiration to hit me, I came across some small pulleys. I'll have to modify them to make the groove in the wheel deeper but I think I can come up with a fix for around $10.

I'll put on my enginerd hat when I get home tonight & let you know how it works out tomorrow. The only real problem I foresee is finding some shoulder bolts the right size (hello Fastenal ... here I come).

I'm trying to keep this 'fix' as bolt on as possible so anyone could replicate it for themselves.

Allison, do you want to 'beta test' the repaired regulator? Since my VX is in the shop for at least a few more weeks, I won't be able to test out the fix.

[Allison3371]

I'm game for anything you think might work. I really appreciate the help!

[Leon R]

This is now a few weeks old, but I am just now getting to it:

OH JOY! So today I took my VX to my mechanic to install the new regulator. (As much as I wanted to do this myself, my lack of free time is minimal) It's installed BUT it's binding in the front. The rubber guide is split and he says that is causing it to bind...He said that's what broke the regulator and has instructed me to buy that and he will put it in. I see it really is split, but wondering if this really is my issue. I read a few of the posts (thanks Kat for putting the links all together) and I see there are other reasons it could be doing this. Anyone replace this rubber guide thingamadoobie with success on correcting the binding issue?

I'm not sure exactly what you mean by the rubber guide is "split":_thinking. Are you talking about the rubber strip the edge of the the glass goes into?

If it's that one, it goes around the glass edge, then down IN FRONT of the tweeter panel, where I'm pointing.

This is the rubber channel we suggest be kept lubed with something like pure silicone spray, or Teflon silicone. It has several channels within it, (not just the channel the glass edge goes in) and I wonder if that's what your guy means by "split"?

I think I know what this mechanic is talking about, and I think I agree with him! As the window travels up and down, it wears out the rubber in FRONT of the window! I am sure that lubricating since new would have help with this wear, but it is too late for most of us now.

That wear gives window extra space to tilt forward and bind up! That binding eventually damages already poorly fitting regulator and white clips on the window.

Replacing the plastic clips with metal brackets and getting new regulator does not solve the original problem: split rubber channel with extra space! We need to ether replace the rubber guides (are they still available?) or build up some material for TIGHTER window fit (front to back).

[tom4bren]

Replacing the plastic clips with metal brackets and getting new regulator does not solve the original problem: split rubber channel with extra space! We need to ether replace the rubber guides (are they still available?) or build up some material for TIGHTER window fit (front to back).

She's replaced both the regulator and the rubber weather strip with new components & is still having tilting issues.

For some reason one of the plastic guides is not properly engaging the vertical track.

[VX KAT]

This is now a few weeks old, but I am just now getting to it:



I think I know what this mechanic is talking about, and I think I agree with him! As the window travels up and down, it wears out the rubber in FRONT of the window! I am sure that lubricating since new would have help with this wear, but it is too late for most of us now.

That wear gives window extra space to tilt forward and bind up! That binding eventually damages already poorly fitting regulator and white clips on the window.

Replacing the plastic clips with metal brackets and getting new regulator does not solve the original problem: split rubber channel with extra space! We need to ether replace the rubber guides (are they still available?) or build up some material for TIGHTER window fit (front to back).


I've seen several of these rubber gaskets (Isuzu officially calls "Glass Run"), and IMHO the rubber gasket/track/run itself is not getting worn down.
I've heard of, but haven't seen any with a "split" of any kind involving the rubber channel.

I believe it's a combination of 3 factors:

1) Rubber gets dry and doesn't allow the glass to slide easily thus causing glass to bind and struggle to go up. (So lubrication helps). I "think" because the rubber channel gets dried out, it causes glass to kind of stick to it, causing it to get ripped and torn up as glass goes up/pdown.

2) The metal channel (see my post #29) is too narrow, causing rubber gasket to be squeezed into the channel, and therefore causing more friction on both sides of glass,

3) The metal channel is pushing rearward, thus applying more pressure on the forward EDGE of the glass.

So that's why widening the channel as well as moving the vertical channel a little forward helps relieve pressure on the glass, allowing it to slide easier.

**** I don't know if any of this affects the TILT issue, as mine has never had that problem ****


I have a used glass run from a '99, I can take detailed pics of channel to see if it's showing any wear.

[tom4bren]

I hafta agree with KAT. The glass run (rubber track ... weather strip ... whatever) isn't wearing & causing the window tilt. The window tilt gets bad enough to cause the wear & tear. I've actually only heard of 2 glass runs bad enought that they had tears, mine & Allison's.

[Leon R]

Stay tuned for some "worn out to a split" photos! ;)

As promised:

This is the outside (metal channel side)

http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae215/grndsm/3E507932-EE9E-4633-9FD3-6930ED70E3FD-14562-00000DAA4A090DB2.jpg

This is the inside (glass side)

http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae215/grndsm/2514A090-CE19-4CFB-AA96-C8B86F436C05-14562-00000DAA6A88F2A0.jpg

If you disconnect the regulator and move the window up and down with your hands, you can really feel the play in the "worn rubber" area.

So we seem to have a fundumental disagreement, Kat thinks this is caused by window "track" being too tight and I think that it is caused it by it being too "loose"! Could we be looking at two different problems? Afterall, she can't be THAT wrong! :winky:

Did Allison replace her "glass run" with actual NEW or used parts?

[tom4bren]

new

[VX KAT]

Stay tuned for some "worn out to a split" photos! ;)

As promised:

This is the outside (metal channel side)

http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae215/grndsm/3E507932-EE9E-4633-9FD3-6930ED70E3FD-14562-00000DAA4A090DB2.jpg

This is the inside (glass side)

http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae215/grndsm/2514A090-CE19-4CFB-AA96-C8B86F436C05-14562-00000DAA6A88F2A0.jpg

If you disconnect the regulator and move the window up and down with your hands, you can really feel the play in the "worn rubber" area.

So we seem to have a fundumental disagreement, Kat thinks this is caused by window "track" being too tight and I think that it is caused it by it being too "loose"! Could we be looking at two different problems? Afterall, she can't be THAT wrong! :winky:

Did Allison replace her "glass run" with actual NEW or used parts?


Afterall, she can't be THAT wrong! :winky:

:confused: Heck yeah, I could be wrong!

Remember, I'm not addressing the tilt problem.

My truck had 65k on it when I bought it, and my windows worked, but driver side was a little slow. When I took it apart I found my rubber track had been cut off, and there was NO rubber in the metal channel from the tweeter panel down I also had severe wind noise from that area.

I bought a used one from blujfan, when I installed it, I found the glass had more more slowing/binding when it went went thru the VERY TOP of the metal channel.

So I followed "phines" How To on the forum. Others have used this fix as well.
I widened and moved my vertical track forward, and the glass had much less resistance going up. The more I tweeked it, widened, BFH forward, the less resistance it had. As well as seeing the window slow, you can also HEAR the motor slowing so I felt quite sure I knew where it was binding.

After a while, I decided to buy a NEW glass run because I live in AZ and rubber can deteriorate faster. I then sold my used glass run to Tom.

The passenger glass run I have here from my salvage yard "project" is also split like your picture, but my guess is that's from it binding and getting tugged on up and down and it just ripped�.not the rubber is wearing and is thinner, allowing more space.
Maybe we are talking 2 diff problems..maybe you're talking tilt?

[tom4bren]

So we seem to have a fundumental disagreement ...

OK, We'll agree to disagree.

Afterall, she can't be THAT wrong! :winky:

Oh yes she can ... anyone who puts pink & purple accessories on a maroon vehicle can't be completely right in the head ... God bless her little heart.

Here, I'll save her some mouse clicks:

:slap:

[Leon R]

Last night, I saw even more evidence that binding is caused by too much clearance. You can actually see it in my earlier photo:

http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae215/grndsm/91CDE851-DCC9-4D45-9AAA-F91F33A9788E-15669-00000E5705F26054.jpg

First, the bracket angle appear to be smaller than 90*. I am not sure if it was suppose to be 90*, but it appears to be bent in a direction to cause too much clearance.

Second, if you follow the rail up, you can see it twisting, once again causing too much clearance.

Combine this with worn/cut glass run and you have a binding problem!

Allison, I wonder if your rails are still twisted, which could explain why new window run and regulator did not fix the problem.

Do we have any photos of this "metal rail" from when these trucks were newer?

In ether case, I will need to purchase a DS glass run, are they still available from Issuzu?

[tom4bren]

I see your logic but this is the age old "chicken & egg" thing.

Did your bent rails cause the regulator to go FUBAR or did the regulator fail letting the glass tilt which caused the rails to bend???

We'll probably never know. I'm attacking the one known problem: the guides for the vertical track can not hold up to the stresses put on them. After I get my arms wrapped around that problem, I'll look into the bent rail issue.

BTW, if your rail is bent & you just replace the glass run (rubber weather strip), aren't you just kicking the can down the road. The new glass run will cut/tear eventually.

[evillecutter]

mine rolls up just fine as long as i keep a finger on the glass to keep it from leaning foreward while it goes up - which fix do i need?

[tom4bren]

mine rolls up just fine as long as i keep a finger on the glass to keep it from leaning foreward while it goes up - which fix do i need?

Maybe just lube the rubber track the window rides in. That may be all the fix you need.

To diagnose it further, you'll have to remove the door panel & see if there are any damaged or worn components. Look at the plastic tabs that are glued to the glass. Are they broken or loose? Member SBC sells a fix for that.

Are the little white plastic guides on the crossbar (part that slides up & down the center track on the regulator) in good shape? Are they properly engaged on the vertical track all the way up & down? That's what I'm trying to fix now.

Are the glass runs (rubber weather strip that go all the way around the window frame) in good shape & are they staying in the tracks. BTW, these are the things that need to be kept lubricated (2x per year at least).

Wanna go KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid)? One member wrote up how he used a bungie cord to pull up on the front of the window at it was being opened & closed. You'll have to find that thread for yourself because I never tried that. Try using the search function on 'bungie cord'. I doubt you'll come up with too many threads.

[Leon R]

I agree, throwing parts, without truly understanding the core of the problem is a waste of time and money. And I might have already done some of it�

� as it turns out, my old regulator was NOT bad! At least not totally bad! I saw the back white blocks come away from the guide, as window tilted forward and ASSumed that this was the regulator that was causing this problem� Well, the brand new regulator will do the same thing!

Right now, I am leaning toward new glass run AND straightening of the �metal rail� as being the ultimate solution. So I can see why Allison�s problem wasn�t fixed with a new regulator and new window run. But first, I want to see if I can find some photos of this rail when it was new(er)! I hope someone can help me find it!

Evillecutter, If all it take is �one finger� pressure to keep your window going up, you might be able to do the �$3 bungee cord mod�. In my case, I would need 3-5 of those bungies ;).

[tom4bren]

I want to see if I can find some photos of this rail when it was new(er)! I hope someone can help me find it!

I can't help you there son. If I can get some on the next regulator swap, I will. Those will be some difficult shots to take though.

[VX KAT]

Last night, I saw even more evidence that binding is caused by too much clearance. You can actually see it in my earlier photo:

http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/ae215/grndsm/91CDE851-DCC9-4D45-9AAA-F91F33A9788E-15669-00000E5705F26054.jpg

First, the bracket angle appear to be smaller than 90*. I am not sure if it was suppose to be 90*, but it appears to be bent in a direction to cause too much clearance.

Second, if you follow the rail up, you can see it twisting, once again causing too much clearance.

Do we have any photos of this "metal rail" from when these trucks were newer?

In ether case, I will need to purchase a DS glass run, are they still available from Issuzu? - YES, still available, about $65.








Right now, I am leaning toward new glass run AND straightening of the �metal rail� as being the ultimate solution. So I can see why Allison�s problem wasn�t fixed with a new regulator and new window run. But first, I want to see if I can find some photos of this rail when it was new(er)! I hope someone can help me find it!



1) Just so I'm clear, are you saying thru regular use, the glass and glass run actually caused the forward vertical metal channel (that my screwdriver tip is pointing to) to bend/twist?

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/WINDOWS%20-%20ALL%20ASPECTS/DSCN1503-Version2-1.jpg



2) The bracket you're asking about the angle�It was never 90 degrees, it's just as in your picture and mine.
I tried to move mine (to be a smaller angle), but I really only moved it maybe 1mm, if that.

"Phines" wrote up a "How To" on how to bend that bracket and widen the vertical channel:
http://www.vehicross.info/modules.php?name=Content&file=viewarticle&id=3

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/WINDOWS%20-%20ALL%20ASPECTS/DSCN0824-1.jpg



3) Anybody have a pic of the vertical metal channel "twisted"?



4) Here's two threads on BUNGEE CORD fix:


a) http://vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=19148&highlight=zip+tie


b) http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showpost.php?p=226963&postcount=9
http://beszeljukmeg.com/VX/window/3.jpg











Here, I'll save her some mouse clicks:

:slap:

�and yer point iz?
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/MISC%20VX%20PICTURES/DSCN0225.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/MISC%20VX%20PICTURES/DSCN0216.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/DSC_2687.jpg

[Leon R]

I have also found that "how to" article, and I can see how making it wider might help, but I am comletely at a loss how it could possibly help to bend it forward!

Bending it forward, gives it more room to tilt forward, which, in turn moves the upper rear corner OUT of the rear glas run! How could it possibly help?

[Allison3371]

Tom and Sue,
I stopped by the mechanic that replaced the regulator and showed him the problem. He said "that's no big deal". He said he just needed to remove the glass and bend the regulator bracket there on the bottom of the glass so the upper plastic clip sits on the track again. I'm going to let him try. Then it's his ***** if he breaks it...or so I hope.

Leon, Do you have this problem too?
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/2013-01-27_12_51_57.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/23234)
My window rocked forward about 1/2 way up. My window guide rubber thingy was split, I replaced it, but I don't think that was my problem. Now, I think I know what my problem is. This stupid plastic clip that doesn't line up to the track.

[tom4bren]

Allison,

Fingers crossed that the mechanic is as good as his word.

Just in case, my 'new to me' regulator should be here on Saturday so if sumpn goes wrong, we'll still have you covered.

Tom

[tom4bren]

Bending it forward, gives it more room to tilt forward, which, in turn moves the upper rear corner OUT of the rear glas run! How could it possibly help?

Keep in mind that those tracks are only designed to keep the glass parallel to the door. They are not intended to keep it from tilting. Lift & tilt are the sole responsibilities of the regulator. If those tracks are what is keeping the glass from tilting, then something is wrong with the regulator and it'll be a downhill slide to glass run tearing/splitting/bunching soon to be followed by bent tracks.

[Leon R]

Allison, yes, I have the same problem. But rather than bending, I might try washer/approach.

[Allison3371]

I tried the washer approach, but of course it pushed the entire bar out causing the bottom clip...that is fine...to be too tight, thus the window wouldn't go up. So that didn't work for me.

[Bulldoggie]

I agree, throwing parts, without truly understanding the core of the problem is a waste of time and money. And I might have already done some of it…

… as it turns out, my old regulator was NOT bad! At least not totally bad! I saw the back white blocks come away from the guide, as window tilted forward and ASSumed that this was the regulator that was causing this problem… Well, the brand new regulator will do the same thing!

Right now, I am leaning toward new glass run AND straightening of the “metal rail” as being the ultimate solution. So I can see why Allison’s problem wasn’t fixed with a new regulator and new window run. But first, I want to see if I can find some photos of this rail when it was new(er)! I hope someone can help me find it!

Evillecutter, If all it take is “one finger” pressure to keep your window going up, you might be able to do the “$3 bungee cord mod”. In my case, I would need 3-5 of those bungies ;).

The white guides pulling away from the regulator lifting track is what breaks the window tabs.
It is a sign that the regulator is pulling away from being under the glass!!!!
It is why I used the washers.
It is important to use just the right amount of washers!
It has to hold the regulator arm (the part bolted to the window tabs)
Under the glass RELAXED while it is unbolted.
It has to be checked while the window and regulator arm are unbolted near the bottom and near the top of the window travel.
the window tabs should rest on the arm, while un bolted, relaxed.
Too many washers and it will be pushing under.
Too few and the white plastic guides will pull away.
Every window will need different adjustments for each alignment problem.
There is no one fix, that works for all.

[tom4bren]

�and yer point iz?

OMG. I just saw the pix. It's worse/better than I thought.:)

[Allison3371]

OH BOY OH BOY. The shop thinks they fixed it. I stopped in and they were still working on it. I will pick it up in the morning and post pictures.

SO, they removed everything and started over. He said one of the plastic mounting brackets was broken, so he had to get new ones. ISUZU HAD THEM IN STOCK! WOW!!! And the replacements are now metal?! He said they only attach with a plastic (DUH) set screw to the glass, so he used window adhesive to mount to the glass. He had to place several washers under the right side on the top and several on the right side on the bottom (where I had the gap between the regulator guides and the track). He said it stays on the track with no problems but slows a little when the glass gets to about 3" from the top.

I won't be able to test it for 2 days until this adhesvie dries, but I'm excited. He didn't charge me any labor, just $35 for the replacement brackets.

I feel really bad because they started on it at 8am and just now getting done. But I'm thrilled it might be fixed!

[Allison3371]

Well it appears they fixed it. It goes up and down with no tilt now, but it's really slow and REALLY slow at the top. Also, the rubber on the top of the door panel that runs along the glass now flips under when the window goes down. Maybe due to the shop moving the glass closer? Not sure, but at least I can tint the windows now. Here are some pictures on how they repaired it.
(This is the passenger door)

Before:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/guide_issue_before.jpg

Bottom right track after shimming:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/lower_guide_after.jpg

Top right track after shimming:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/top_guide_after.jpg

New metal glass mounting brackets from Isuzu:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/new_metal_bracket_for_glass.jpg

This is how the guides seat now:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/new_guide_seating.jpg



Any suggestions to keep the top rubber gasket from buckling under?

[Allison3371]

Also, this is how he had to relocate the top guide bolts:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/relocating_top_hole.jpg

[VX KAT]

My guess…
that strip has multiple fasteners along it that fasten to the metal tabs on the door shell…sounds like he didn't line it up and hook onto each fastener. Once fastened, that strip can't flip down.

You can pry it up starting at the door lock knob. Be very careful doing it as that has a metal rod inside and if you bend that, it will be a PITA to get it back flat.


ALSO…the slowness TOWARD THE TOP….means it NEEDS LUBRICATION!!! Review the posts that talk about lubricating the rubber channel. Very important, or you'll end up burning out your window motor. Can use 100% pure silicon spray, Teflon Silicone, Dive Silicone

http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/036121/036121197251lg.jpg

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showpost.php?p=274547&postcount=8

And consider the discussion earlier in this thread about whether the vertical metal channel needs to be windened and possibly moved a little forward. I, and many many others have done that, with great improvement in the slowness, as it relieves some of the pressure/friction on the front edge of glass along the rubber track. LeonR disagrees with this theory however.

[VX KAT]

Here's pics of that strip�it's got rubber on the top, but it has metal in it and bends easily!
It hs some fuzzy stuff along the strip to keep dirt out of the window mechanism, and to clean the window (somewhat)

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/PARTS/DSCN7896.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/PARTS/DSCN7897.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/PARTS/DSCN7900.jpg

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/PARTS/DSCN7901.jpg

[tom4bren]

Glad you got it fixed!!!

I got the regulator from Buffy over the weekend. I'm all ready to install then modify/fix my old one ... as soon as I get my VX back!!!

[Devvon]

see question below...

[Devvon]

Has anyone found a workable solution to repair or replace the small white plastic guides that keep the regulator on the track? On the side with two guides, I have one completely missing and the one on the other side is broken.

[tom4bren]

I have an idea rattling around in the noggin.

I hope to impliment this Friday since the DS on the Proton has gotten really bad. I'll keep you posted.

[fotomaker]

Has anyone found a workable solution to repair or replace the small white plastic guides that keep the regulator on the track? On the side with two guides, I have one completely missing and the one on the other side is broken.

My problem is the white plastic parts of the crossbar that raise and lower the window are cracked and broken. My window clips that the SBC bracket replaces look fine. Is it possible to just replace this crossbar?
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSF8764.jpghttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSF8772.jpghttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSF8765.jpg

[tom4bren]

I'm going to replace those 2 white pieces on the right in your top photo with a couple of brass wheels I 'borrowed' from a pully. I'll let you know how that works out (but it'll be a couple more weeks ... low on the priority list at the moment).

AFAIK the cross bar is not available seperately, you have to buy the whole regulator.

[fotomaker]

My real problem is the piece in the middle that the cable attaches to, to raise and lower the window. That part is shot. As others have noted, it is a terrible design! Guess I'll be calling Merlin.

[tom4bren]

One other thing that I recently learnt is that we should NOT be using lithium grease in the window tracks. That gums up as it dries. We should only use a silicon based lubricant (that info comes from recent experience & from the guy who installed my windshield ... so I rekin he knows).

[tom4bren]

My real problem is the piece in the middle that the cable attaches to, to raise and lower the window. That part is shot. As others have noted, it is a terrible design! Guess I'll be calling Merlin.

I don't think that I'll be able to get to modifying the regulator this week (up to my eyeballs in repairing the AC on our RV). If I can though, I'll let you know. I'd be willing to do a $0 swap with you for your FUBAR ones & you get to BETA test my enginerding skills (otherwise, I'll put them in Boy's VX to test).

[fotomaker]

Sounds interesting!

I was about to contact Merlin... I can wait until next week, if you like.
I need to get it fixed fairly soon since she is now my DD.

Do you have a strategy on the part of mine that is broken?

[tom4bren]

Do you have a strategy on the part of mine that is broken?

Not yet but that'll be my problem if we work out the swap.:)

[VX KAT]

Some pics of unbroken regulator for reference.
First 2 pics are a BRAND NEW one, other 2 are used.



1) New Passenger side
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/PARTS/DSCN2243.jpg (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/photokat4/media/PARTS/DSCN2243.jpg.html)

2)
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/PARTS/DSCN2255.jpg (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/photokat4/media/PARTS/DSCN2255.jpg.html)


3)Used Driver side
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/PARTS/DSCN7687.jpg (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/photokat4/media/PARTS/DSCN7687.jpg.html)



4)Used Driver side
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/PARTS/DSCN7686.jpg (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/photokat4/media/PARTS/DSCN7686.jpg.html)

[fotomaker]

Not yet but that'll be my problem if we work out the swap.:)

OK... Please keep me informed on your progress and success.

Fortunately it's summer and I can drive my Celica.
The problem is after a couple of days with the Celica I start thinking about selling the VX. This parts issue is starting to worry me.

[fotomaker]

Ordered my new part from Merlin today... Thanks for the help!

[Jason]

fotomaker,

where you able to order just the cross arm or did you have to get the entire regulator assembly?

Jason

[VX KAT]

fotomaker,

where you able to order just the cross arm or did you have to get the entire regulator assembly?

Jason

have to buy the entire assembly.

[fotomaker]

fotomaker,

where you able to order just the cross arm or did you have to get the entire regulator assembly?

Jason

I had to buy the entire assembly. $93, if I remember correctly. The irony is that I could not get the motor off the old assembly so I removed the new cross arm and put it on the old assembly and installed it. All is working well!

[atilla_the_fun]

Hi all,
Its been a long time since I've posted here. I've been busy with my other mode of transportation (1978 Alfa Spider).
http://i1076.photobucket.com/albums/w449/crazybob1300/photo4.jpg (http://s1076.photobucket.com/user/crazybob1300/media/photo4.jpg.html)

When I first got my VX three years ago, I bought the SBC fix before I had even opened my doors up. Both windows were tilting, with the worst being the passenger. I thought that it was a clip issue given the state of the forum at the time. After opening it up it was clear that the issue was with the wear of the plastic guides on the cross member. This was a terrible design flaw, but I assume that a scissor mechanism wouldn't fit inside the VX's door due to the curvature.

Anyways, after some lazy bit of searching, I came across this Isuzu Rodeo regulator from 94-97 (and honda passport). Does that cross member look familiar?

VX regulator:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/vx-regulator.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/24437)
Rodeo Regulator:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/medium/rodeo-regulator.JPG

[twostep1n2]

My dad has 2001 trooper and we bought a new rear door regulator for it. when it came it looked almost identical to the V. So based only on the pictures posted here and the pictures on ebay I think you could drill out the spot welds on the mount brackets on the old reg and rivet them on the trooper reg and you would be good to go. THIS HAS NOT BEEN TESTED. just an idea.


http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTk3WDE2MDA=/z/qvMAAMXQVERS2VPz/$_57.JPG

[Mile High VX]

So when I installed my new regulator I played with it a bit to see what the issues might be.

I noticed that when I operated the window with the top bolts removed that it worked great and that the support moved away from the door frame as the window neared the top of the run. When it would go down the support moved back toward the frame as intended. This is likely what has allowed the use of more washers to be a good fix.

I had a thought...what if you used a longer bolt at the top. The kind that has a shaft and then threads. This would allow the support to slide in and out. You could use a heavy spring between the outer door side of the regulator attachment point and the end of the bolt to hold it against the door frame but one that would allow some outward movement as the window raised and the regulator frame move outward. You might accomplish the same allowance for travel by using this type of set up between the regulator and the SBC bracket.

I'm not an engineer but it seems like from the behavior that I observed in the components that this might help the issue a great deal.

Anyone try this or have any thoughts on my observations?