Help! How far can I tweak my torsion bars?

[Maddawg]

I have measured the distance from the centerline of the front axle to the underside of the fender clad. The distance is 22 inches. Can I go higher? Measuring in this manner it takes the tire diameter out of the equation, yes? So anyone here who has a suspension lift can make the measurement the same way regardless of tire size. (I think).

[VXorado]

Technically you can set the torsion bars as much as the suspension will travel. Jack up the front of the VX and measure the distance when the wheels are at full droop and that will be your full measurement. Even if the torsion bar adjustment bolt tightens to a stop, you can remove the assembly & re-index the torsion bar to continue lift.

I had the VX at full suspension lift before and it was really bumpy. With the body lift, I measure 25" to the cladding. If you subtract the BL, we both measure 22" to the wheel well. From my experience recently with SFIFS, I would say you have about 2.5" before you've reach the IFS bump stops.

[Ldub]

Technically you can set the torsion bars as much as the suspension will travel. Jack up the front of the VX and measure the distance when the wheels are at full droop and that will be your full measurement. Even if the torsion bar adjustment bolt tightens to a stop, you can remove the assembly & re-index the torsion bar to continue lift.

I had the VX at full suspension lift before and it was really bumpy. With the body lift, I measure 25" to the cladding. If you subtract the BL, we both measure 22" to the wheel well. From my experience recently with SFIFS, I would say you have about 2.5" before you've reach the IFS bump stops.

I'll add that at full suspension lift, your 1/2 shaft angles will be, like....totally heinous dude...:yesgray:

And CV replacement will be much more freqently...:_thinking

Unless you install diff drop brackets.

[Maddawg]

Ok guys, its sounds like I'm at max height. The diff drop is something I may do down the line. As my car sits now it is at a slight rake. I would like it to sit level both for aethetics and added front wheel well clearance.

[89Vette]

I'll add that at full suspension lift, your 1/2 shaft angles will be, like....totally heinous dude...:yesgray:

And CV replacement will be much more freqently...:_thinking

Unless you install diff drop brackets.


Mine are sitting 4 turns from max (I think). And, it doesn't seem "lifted" over stock height. Alignment showed everything in correct position.

Are you saying those last 4 turns make that much difference?

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f152/greggpenn/MyVehicross/P1070346a.jpg



How can I tell if I'm higher than stock height? (in the front).

[Maddawg]

What's your measurment from the centerline of the front axle to the bottom of the fender clad???

[VxSport]

Interesting way of comparing them. I checked the sport and it looks like 21.5", this is the lifted one. The other is stock.

[SilverBullet75]

I'm at 21.5 as well, but I am lower from where I started. At the previous height (22.5-23.0) I had CV issues. Yes, 1 inch plays a huge difference.

[Maddawg]

Looks like we're all within an inch of one another. The only ones that would be greater then would be the guys with the body lifts additionally.

[89Vette]

What's your measurment from the centerline of the front axle to the bottom of the fender clad???

Hmmmmm....It's 18.5" from the center of the wheel centercap -- straight up to the bottom of the cladding.

My ball-joints aren't flipped. (It's stock).

But, when I cranked the T-Bars last fall, it only seemed like I could get another 4-5 full turns before it wanted to stop. I thought that would only get me another 1" or so....

But you guys are talking 3-4" higher than mine. Sound's like I might have needed some thread cleaning to go further?

Actually, I wouldn't go THAT high. I've considered a 1" lift front/rear. I really want to make sure I don't push the limits of the front CV-joints/boots.

I'd pick longevity/reliability over lift. So, do I have that 1" w/o issue?

[Maddawg]

Hmmmmm....It's 18.5" from the center of the wheel centercap -- straight up to the bottom of the cladding.

My ball-joints aren't flipped. (It's stock).

But, when I cranked the T-Bars last fall, it only seemed like I could get another 4-5 full turns before it wanted to stop. I thought that would only get me another 1" or so....

But you guys are talking 3-4" higher than mine. Sound's like I might have needed some thread cleaning to go further?

Actually, I wouldn't go THAT high. I've considered a 1" lift front/rear. I really want to make sure I don't push the limits of the front CV-joints/boots.

I'd pick longevity/reliability over lift. So, do I have that 1" w/o issue?

I'm not sure what a stock measurement would be. Maybe VX KATT, Vx Sport or someone could chime in here and answer that. All I know is that I have a 3" suspension lift with the 22" measurement from the centerline of the axle to the bottom of the fender clad. (correct me if I'm wrong anyone)

It seems to me that you are at stock height or slightly less. Did you jack-up you're car so the wheels were off the ground to relieve the load on the torsion bars when you torqued them??

[89Vette]

It seems to me that you are at stock height or slightly less. Did you jack-up you're car so the wheels were off the ground to relieve the load on the torsion bars when you torqued them??

Yes, it was up in the air. It only took a quick try with it on the ground to firgure out it would be way easier w/o being under load.

[Maddawg]

Yes, it was up in the air. It only took a quick try with it on the ground to firgure out it would be way easier w/o being under load.

Ok, I guess all we can do is hang tight until someone with a stock suspension set-up can tell us what the dimensions are. BTW, thats one nice looking VX you've got. Are you the original owner?

[VxSport]

Our front end is all stock. When we lift the rear, it kinda adds some height to the front without any adjustment.

http://i1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj507/VxSport99/0130001621_zps776e804a.jpg
This pic is the day I install the 919 springs on the rear, the front was untouched (stock height) Stock 16" wheels on 255/65 R16. Always adjust the T bars with the front end up, suspension hanging. A little turn does go along way in height. Bounce it a few times in between adjustment.

I checked the stock height on the other, looks like it is 19". However this is a used vx, others have messed with it. So I wouldn't call this OEM spec.


Hmmmmm....It's 18.5" from the center of the wheel centercap -- straight up to the bottom of the cladding.

My ball-joints aren't flipped. (It's stock).

But, when I cranked the T-Bars last fall, it only seemed like I could get another 4-5 full turns before it wanted to stop. I thought that would only get me another 1" or so....

But you guys are talking 3-4" higher than mine. Sound's like I might have needed some thread cleaning to go further?

Actually, I wouldn't go THAT high. I've considered a 1" lift front/rear. I really want to make sure I don't push the limits of the front CV-joints/boots.

I'd pick longevity/reliability over lift. So, do I have that 1" w/o issue?

[VXorado]

But, when I cranked the T-Bars last fall, it only seemed like I could get another 4-5 full turns before it wanted to stop. I thought that would only get me another 1" or so....

But you guys are talking 3-4" higher than mine. Sound's like I might have needed some thread cleaning to go further?


I referred to this issue in my first post. This is from the Planetisuzoo torsion bar article:


There are some cases where you may run out of threads to adjust, you will in these cases need to “re-index” your torsion bar(s). This isn’t typically necessary. To re-index you have to take your t-bar adjuster completely loose and take the t-bar out of where it attaches and rotate one end to pre-load it. Then adjust it as necessary.

Check the threads to see if they're bottomed out or if they're just dirty. The big bolts can be pretty stubborn but an impact wrench & some penetrating oil will make the job much easier.