CV boots (or replace both front left and right axles)

[VXD959]

I noticed that the 1999 Ironman that I just bought has two split CV boots.
I read several threads about changing the CV boots, etc.

I talked to my mechanic to get an estimate to replace the CV boots, but he is recommending changing both axles with new ones. He said that he can do the job for around $500 ($250 a piece).

Is this the best thing to do? I asked him about VX parts, and he told me not to worry about it, that he can find the parts (I guess universal axles?)Is this OK?)

Please advise.

[MSHardeman]

Every time I have had a CV boot tear or slip off, the mechanics that I brought the VX to have wanted to replace the whole axle. They said that that was an easier job than trying to replace the boots. That may be, but it's very hard to find OEM replacement axles for the VX. There are a few manufacturers out there that make replacements, but as others have found there are fewer, and smaller, balls in the CV joints causing them to click and clack. It seems like the VX has a unique set up and your mechanic would have to find Isuzu OEM axles, which can get expensive. I have a feeling that he is looking at something like the EMPI replacement axles which are like $70 a piece.

I have had to force my mechanics to just clean the joint out, re-grease it, and replace the CV boots in order to keep everything stock. If you're even slightly mechanically inclined you can replace the CV boots yourself, or bring the below instructions to your mechanic to see if he would do the work.

http://www.vehicross.info/downloads/Mechatech_Install.pdf

I'm sure others will chime in......

[PK]

Without knowing how long the boots were torn, and therefore how much damage may have been done to the joints, it is hard to answer.
If there is any noise coming from the joints, they need to be replaced with what you are calling new axles.
Best way of listening to the joints is to go to an empty car park and have a friend drive your car around in tight circles, forwards and backwards, and on both locks.
With you standing in the middle of the circle or walking beside the inside front wheel, listen for "pops, pings, cracks, and bangs".
Any noise, replace the CV joint complete.
No noise, replace the boots and make sure the joint is clean and has fresh grease in it.
Use the guide mentioned in the above post, or have your mechanic follow that guide.
It is way quicker and easier than the normal method the mechanics tell you they use.

PK

[Triathlete]

Your mechanic wants to do the easier job that is going to make HIM the most $$$$. If your joints are not making any clicking noises or binding then new boots (under $15 each) are a good option. I gauruntee for $250 per side you are not getting oem shafts...just the parts are over $400 each! Your mech is going to get you some autozone remanufactured shafts and stuff them in there. The oem shafts are far superior than anything currently available on the aftermarket...PERIOD!

[VXD959]

Thank you guys. There is no noise as far as I can tell. I will check again tomorrow with my wife driving the VX.

I will definitely willl follow the Mechatech instructions. I'm willing to learn how to fix them, but I'm not mechanically inclined and don't have the tools (jacks, etc) . I'm going to need someone to help me with this.

Thanks!!!

[Triathlete]

The tools will cost you way less than paying to have the job done! First time I did it I had no clue what I was doing either. Follow the instructions and take your time...it really isn't that hard. Plus you learn and get that feeling of accomplishment when you get it done and it works right! :)

[tom4bren]

If some smart person hadn't come up with that little trick of disconnecting the lower control arm to seperate the inner CV, then it really would be close to the same cost for replacing boots versus replacing shafts (except for parts of course).

Basically it's as easy as cutting off the inner CV boot (so you can release the clip ring), remove 4 bolts on lower control arm, pull entire wheel assembly outward until the shaft clears the green cup, remove other boot, clean/grease joints, replace boots, put it all back together.

There are other members in your local area so it shouldn't be too difficult to find one that has the tools to help out. You really only need a decent metric socket set, metric box end wrenches, a box cutter, a cheapo internal clip ring pliers, needle nosed pliers (to tighten the band around the boot ... I just used zip ties), & a small screw driver or pick to get the clip ring out. Oh yeah, & lots & lots of paper towels (it's a dirty job). A can of brake cleaner for getting all of the old grease out helps immensly too.