Replacement Axle Assemblies from SurTrack.....

[JoFotoz]

From the research and hands on checking I've been able to do...
...it looks to me like the SurTrack Axle assemblies are the best bet
replacement for our OEM ones.

[EDIT...ADDED AFTER "TESTING"....
...not recommended for hard off roading...GREAT for normal road use and light trails

Thye have the same Ball race configuration in the 'Green Cup" as
OEM does .... NOT the tripod that causes issues when lifted.
.
The ball bearings are the same size as OEM, not small as per "Empi" brand...
...so no binding issues.
.
IMO, this also means that part assemblies will fit rather than the need for full
replacement if not required.
.
Shaft diameter is the only "iffy" spec...
I measured two OEM shafts, and got 27.2mm in one, and 28mm in the other...??
The SurTrack clocked in at 27.5mm.
SurTrack told me that the axle size does vary a bit depending on 'raw' material supplier.
.
However...spline diam and spline count were the same...so shouldnt be an issue.


I have ordered a complete driver/pass side set to be shipped to me and I'll bring
them to Moab for general inspection/once over.
.
They also sell outer only assemblies (Part# IZ-8021..same for both sides)

If you want to go ahead and order your own, contact :-

DEAN @ ONE STOP (tell him you are a VX.info club member !)

Tel:- 1-760-598-4852

Pass side ( short side).......... Part # IZ-8010...........$88:00 + tax

Driver side ( long side).......... Part # IZ-8011...........$88:00 + tax

~~~~~~

** Update**

Half shaft option from Amazon or other Stockists..
...for those not requiring full replacement.

SurTrack IZ-8021 CV Axle Shaft for $50 each of Amazon.

~~~~~~


Shipping varies depending on Location ( charged me only $15;00).....
....he will ship direct to you....normally they only ship to garages/trade outlets.


Hope this helps.

Jo

[VXorado]

Looks good Jo and thanks for heading this up. It will help tremendously if these axle hold up to the hype. I look forward to seeing them in May. :thumbup:

[JoFotoz]

Yup....

Looks good Jo and thanks for heading this up. It will help tremendously if these axle hold up to the hype. I look forward to seeing them in May. :thumbup:

...fingers X'd these are going to work like OEM.

I couldnt check balls etc on the ones I saw as the boots were factory banded
and my garage friends didnt want to me to mess with them...understandable.....

....But Justins 'schematic" reading/de-ciphering was awesome :thumbup:

There is an Ironman using them in San Diego now (Kahuna)..and I'll be getting feedback from him too.

I figure we can break'em down in Moab and take a good look...over a libation :_beer:

Jo

[VXD959]

So these will be a direct replacement for the VX axles?
I'm debating between changing the CV boots only, or replacing the whole axle.

Please let me know if these will work. Has anyone tried them before? I want to make sure!!!

My mechanic says that he found a driver's side axle at O'Reillys (he claims is an Isuzu brand, remanufactured for $65). But cannot find the passenger's side.

[JoFotoz]

Kind of like it says in the first post...


So these will be a direct replacement for the VX axles?
I'm debating between changing the CV boots only, or replacing the whole axle.

Please let me know if these will work. Has anyone tried them before? I want to make sure!!!

One VX I know locally just had them put in...waiting for feedback..they fit fine and seem all good......

........and all important Specs seem to match up with OEM.

Maybe another owner here has used them and can chime in....
....but I've never seen then mentioned here before.


If your CV's are good...no binding / clacking I'd suggest just boots.

I 'm getting these as spares, because now I have a front locker, I'll be loading up
my OEM axles ( even!) more than usual...so I want to be prepared.

If you need full assemblies..I'd say youre 99.9% good getting these...
....or wait till I get the set I've ordered and have a chance to pull them apart and confirm 100% they are good...
...but that wont be for several weeks.

Hope this helps...

Jo

[Triathlete]

Good info Jo...thanks!

[JoFotoz]

No problem Billy...


Good info Jo...thanks!


I've wanted a viable spare set for a while so happy to chase these down.

I hope they are as good in real life as they appear in the specs !

Jo

[JoFotoz]

My SurTrack axle assemblies arrived today...

...thats FAST service :thumbup:

Dont have time to break them down ( probably a Moab job avec libation..:_beer: )

But..did compare the Surtrack long side...
.... to a spare OEM long side ( Drivers) shaft and 'green cup' that I have.

Perfect length.

Spline Diam a tad different :-

OEM = 27.58mm
S/Track = 27.33mm

Close enough for me...considering my cheap caliper..
...and given the ample available spline depth to engage.

Jo

[VXD959]

Jo -

Any feedback / update on the Surtrack axles?

Thanks,

[LittleBeast]

Any updated info on this?

[Gizmo42]

Jo installed one of them in Moab (I helped a little and LDub supervised). Seemed to be a perfect fit with no slop.

[UWVX89]

I ordered em, guy shipped em out and I had them within a 2-3 days. Not a single issue since!

[JoFotoz]

As Gizmo says..i swapped one in at moab..and it fit like a glove.

It was strong enough on my last trail to break the drive flange in the Superwinch hub.

This is a good thing..rather like a shear pin.

Better the hub drive flange breaks..which is a 10 min fix...than the CV's explode.

Tolerances where spot on..straight swap with OME.

I drive home in 2x4 mode...so dont know about regular road durability...

...but my bet is.. two :thumbup::thumbup: !!

Jo

[Marlin]

Are you locked in the front now? If so, that is a sweet deal, enough torque to blow out a Superwinch hub! (which I heard at the ZU meet is no longer honoring the Lifetime warranty, they were bought out or some such). I still have a couple of OEM CV axles, but this is good info to know! May have to check into getting a spare for the Trooper.

[Knigh7s]

Jo,

I (as well as a lot of others, I'm sure) really appreciate that you did this! I've been getting worried about a viable replacement for these as I found my boots torn on both sides not long ago and they were pretty dry >_<

I'll be purchasing a set soon!:yeso:

[JoFotoz]

No problem..glad to help..glad we seem to have a good alternative source.

I swapped the drivers side out cause I had torn two boots the previous day on Golden Spike :eek:

Didnt remove "green cup"...( not a Stoop job!!)....simply released boot from cup on new shaft...
....took out old shaft/cv's...and slotted in complete new one.
Only one side of one boot to secure, to green cup.. ( still a pain..and knuckle skin'er !).....
....but quicker in the long run .

I'll be servicing the OEM shaft I took out, re-booting it...
...and carrying that as a spare.

If I have any issues with the Surtrack ..I'll let ya ll know.

Jo

[VXD959]

I called Dean @ One Stop. He quoted me $125 each, then came down to $110 + $20 shipped.

Then I contacted All Car Auto Parts through Ebay. The quoted me
IZ-8010 $75 shipped
IZ-8011 $90 shipped

So I'm ordering through them. I also called the manufacturer SurTrack directly and they don't sell to individuals. They provided a re-seller in Texas, but they weren't helpful.

[JoFotoz]

Just talked with Dean @ One Stop.

If you mention VX owners club ( This site!)...best he can do is :-

$90 per side , Plus shipping.

:(

I pushed him on price, but his volume doesnt match "All Car Auto parts"...
...my $88 was a one off cause he wanted to see the parts too!

Bummer...cause he was SUPER helpful .... but price rules..he understands.

Please keep him in mind if 'All Car' cant follow through/raise prices.

Cheers

Jo

[VXD959]

Thanks. I also inquired at another place and this is what I received

"In response to your information request:
IZ-8010 is available for 54.07 each.
IZ-8011 is available for 70.70 each.

Please let us know if you have any further questions!

Dave
Dave's Discount Auto Parts
855-250-DAVE (3283)
www.davesdiscountautoparts.com"

The above pricing is very good (they did not provide shipping cost, but it should be around $20 or so).

[44ficus44]

this was xtremely healpfullzzz. so now I gotto save up $ to get my new CVs. prob gonna change both fronts just to have them new

[Chopper]

^ I'd bust the old ones first....then put the new ones in.

[Triathlete]

^ I'd bust the old ones first....then put the new ones in.

Except that could cause additional damage and $$$

[JoFotoz]

YES!!!



^ I'd bust the old ones first....then put the new ones in.


....exactly


These axles are OK..it saved me in MOAB....
.......but you's guys make up,yer own mind.

I'm running them...I'm good with them.

...it's your call.


I've done my homework...

JO


.

[VXD959]

I just got my SureTrack axles yesterday. I will install the new ones and save the OEM just in case as they are still good (only issue is the teared CV boot on both sides, but not damage to the axle assembly :thumbup:).

[KRemo]

Just ordered mine Thursday will recieve them Wednesday. I will be putting them in this weekend will post how they work out soon. $88.00 each for the complete axles $35.00 for shipping to Texas tho. Not to bad

[JoFotoz]

COOL....:thumbup:

We'll have a few people testing them...excellent.

So far so good with mine...no issues at all.

Though I do run 2 wheel drive mostly because of Aussie Locker...
............in true 4x4 they have been great.

I'll be interested to see how they stand up to constant TOD all wheel drive use.

jo

[RodL]

I ordered replacements today from the local Parts supply house. $76.00 Figured is I was changing the Ball joints it would be a good time to change out the axle's too. Did find a split on one of the boots today that I hadn't seen before.

Is there a special "Pickle Fork" for removing the ball joints? The one I rented/borrowed at O'Reilly's didn't work.

Thanks,

Rod

[VXD959]

My mechanic just informed me that it will take about 4-5 hours to replace both front axles according to the service information on his computer. That's about a $400 job using his hourly rates. He showed me the information and it seems that lots of parts need to be removed. He also told me that he will grease the 'transfer' and all 4x4 related parts, and put new seals.
I checked with another shop down the road (not familiar with the Vehicross, but he saw the truck) and told me $100 per side. Not sure if he knows it is a 4 x 4 vehicle...but now I'm debating who to go with.

JoFotoz - is it that complicated? It seems that you changed one...

Please advise!!!

[ND92]

My mechanic just informed me that it will take about 4-5 hours to replace both front axles according to the service information on his computer. That's about a $400 job using his hourly rates. He showed me the information and it seems that lots of parts need to be removed. He also told me that he will grease the 'transfer' and all 4x4 related parts, and put new seals.
I checked with another shop down the road (not familiar with the Vehicross, but he saw the truck) and told me $100 per side. Not sure if he knows it is a 4 x 4 vehicle...but now I'm debating who to go with.

JoFotoz - is it that complicated? It seems that you changed one...

Please advise!!!

My mechanic said the same, but it's because their shop manuals say that you have to drop the whole front axle. If you're mechanic is up to changing them the way that we have changed them, then it should only take him at most and hour to change.
It's pretty easy once you know what you're doing. I changed out one of mine in Moab.... Took me a little bit to do because it was my first time. IMHO if you have the tools and parts, then it's better and a hell of a lot cheaper to DIY.

[VXD959]

It's pretty easy once you know what you're doing. I changed out one of mine in Moab.... Took me a little bit to do because it was my first time. IMHO if you have the tools and parts, then it's better and a hell of a lot cheaper to DIY.

I could not find any instructions on how to change the whole thing. I found the one to change the CV boots...Is it the same process?

http://www.vehicross.info/downloads/Mechatech_Install.pdf

[Gizmo42]

Same procedure as changing boots. Just did both sides on my Rodeo (slightly more difficult then on a VX) and took way longer then normal. Usually I can do boots in 1.5-2 hrs per side in a parking lot.

On a VX you pretty much just pull the brake caliper, pop the snap ring on the end and unbolt the lower ball joint from the control arm, pop the larger inner boot clamp, pop out the retaining clip and thats it.

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c337/Gizmo420/Moab%20ZuZoo%20XVI%202013/IMG_1993100.jpg

[Triathlete]

What Dave said :)
UNLESS you are changing the inner shaft on the long side also...then it's a whole other can of worms!

[VXD959]

What Dave said :)
UNLESS you are changing the inner shaft on the long side also...then it's a whole other can of worms!

What inner shaft? I'm replacing the two front axles assemblies...I'm willing to try and do it myself as long as the job is as simple as David (Gizmo42) says...Nothing wrong with the existing shafts except that the boots are torned on both sides. I'm planning to keep them as a spare.

I'm not very mechanically inclined and don't have the tools to do this (except jacks and some basic tools). I asked a couple of other shops today and they quoted in the $600. They say they cannot warranty the work without going by the shop manual instructions.:mado:

[JoFotoz]

If you are replacing from the green cup outward...
.... you are talking about replacing only PART of both axle assemblies.

You will need to release the boot on the "CUP" on the new axles...
...and pull the assembly apart ( out of the cup).

You can then replace partial axle assemblies from OEM green cup outwards..
.....but you will still need to re-boot the green cup.


The photo of me shows the partial NEW assembly after being released from cup.
The left section slots into green OEM cup, the right section that I'm lubing
goes into hub.

Job took me about 2.5 hours...but thats "Stoop" time..probably could do both
sides in about 3.5 - 4 hours if totally concentrating...not blabbing/cocktailing too!

Most difficult part is re-booting inner cup..its very tight and awkward....
...and you need tool to tension boot band.

Hope this helps

Jo

[KRemo]

I replaced both CV axles Saturday that I purchased from suretrack and they fit like a glove. It's amazing how it drives and feels with new CV's. I would recommend these for everyone. Great product. Now it was not a fun job took 7 hours but well worth the work. :smilewink

[VXD959]

I replaced both CV axles Saturday that I purchased from suretrack and they fit like a glove. It's amazing how it drives and feels with new CV's. I would recommend these for everyone. Great product. Now it was not a fun job took 7 hours but well worth the work. :smilewink

Great!!! Any tips or lessons learned from the installation? I'm still debating about doing mine myself or just pay $400 for my mechanic to do it.

[KRemo]

Not really if you are not comfortable working on cars I would recommend paying a mechanic. It's a tough job by yourself. you have to drop the front axles because you need to get into it to disconnect and connect the ends from inside. I had a friend that knows a lot about cars a mechanic for 27 years and he said it's one of the hardest axle replacements yet. If the inner axles and boots are not tore up you can just replace the outer axle they are a perfect fit to the green cups. Almost as bad of a job as the thermostat lol

[JoFotoz]

Just to clarify... :smack:

If outer axle shafts/CV's are being replaced simply to fix a CV or Boot issue...

...there is no need to drop front axle.

The Surtrak FULL axles assemblies ( as shipped) can be dismantled such that only the
section from the OEM "green Cup' ( silver cup on Surtrack) outward can be used/replaced.
(as per pic of me wrenching at the "stoop")

This will cure CV and torn boot issues without having to drop full axle assembly.
You will still have to re-fit the two boots on each cup.

Dropping the entire front axle for full replacement is indeed a big job..

....replacing CV's and axles from "cup" outwards is much easier and "driveway do-able"


Jo

[KRemo]

Well said :happyface

[tom4bren]

Even if you drop the axle to replace the whole shaft can be a 'driveway job'. It's not that difficult ... just dirty & time consuming.

The only real problems I ran into was disconnecting the ball joints. They can be a real BEEEOTCH! Do NOT use a ball joint fork (pickle fork). Go get good pitman arm puller. The fork will trash your ball joint boots which are hard to find.

The only special tools you'll need are the pitman arm puller (for the ball joints, not the pitman arm ... & that's only needed if you are going to drop the axle), snap ring pliers, and possibly a tensioner for the bands on the boots.

Jo, I didn't use the bands that came with the boots. I just used zip ties & they held up just fine.

The best tip that I can give is to plan ahead. Allow plenty of time & try to get a few cell numbers of people who have done the job in case you have any questions. Print out the instructions for the boot install & maybe the one for the diff drop too. Your copy will be completely trashed from grease & stuff when done so a disposable copy is great to have.

[Marlin]

A puller is not needed at all. I have done my CVs several times, fortunately not in the last 2.5 years since I learned how to drive with a front locker, and went back to OEM CVs. If you use a 3lb sledge, just hit the hole that the taper on the ball joint goes into after loosening all the bolts and the ball joint will pop out. I have done this countless times, learned it from JoeD, Peter and JP at Uwharrie. They laughed at me trying to use a pickle fork, ruining a ball joint...:) He walked over with a hammer, one good whack, and I mean a good whack, and voila, ball joint separated.
You don't have to disconnect the pitman arm to do the job. You can wiggle the axle assembly down by rotating the steering wheel as needed. It isn't that bad of a job, just time consuming. I did this twice, once for the locker install, and then again to do the diff drop and painting of the axle assembly. Took a weekend.

[tom4bren]

I hear ya. Sometimes those ball joints can be so seized though that constant pressure AND impact is required.

Fair warning though. Put the castle nut back on the threads (upside down) before you start pounding on it though to protect the threads. The shaft on the ball joints isn't the strongest material.

BTW, the pitman arm puller is to be used on the ball joints, not the pitman arm. There's no reason to disconnect the pitman arm for this job.

If the new shafts work with the OEM green cup (outer race) then by all means, re-use the green cup & save yourself much effort.

[VXD959]

Thank you all!!! But...........there is no way I'm going to be tackling this by myself!!! :bomb::freek::_thinking:badhorse:
Wish one of you were closer to my place....I'm one of those guys that try to fix something and manage to make it worse... not to mention the extra parts lying around after I put everything back!!!

So to the mechanic it goes...hopefully he will know what to do!!! I will share some of the information posted here with him...but he always goes by the shop manual!

[tom4bren]

...but he always goes by the shop manual!

You need to find a mechanic who doesn't. It could save you hundreds of dollars if you can find a mechanic who will use the short cuts described in the How2's.

[JoFotoz]

Cool...



So to the mechanic it goes... !

..better safe than sorry, trust me, I know all about extra bits lying around after the job!!

You need to decide if you are going to replace entire axle assemblies...
......or simply from the "Green Cup" outboard.

If its simply a question of bust CV boots.....
...you'll save big $$'s only doing the outers.

However..if you have concerns about the entire axle...do it all now.

Cheers

jo

[tom4bren]

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c337/Gizmo420/Moab%20ZuZoo%20XVI%202013/IMG_1993100.jpg


... I know all about extra bits lying around after the job!!

IZZAT why you goin all gangsta on the haf shaf in the pic???

[JHarris1385]

Ordered a set... Tore boots again, even with a diff drop.

[JHarris1385]

Ok...is there a how to or a write up on how to replace these?

My shop is intimidated by the VX just not wanting to mess it up and the computer is giving them a 6 + hour job estimate by dropping the whole axel and diff.

I have told them you can replace from the green cup out and it should be a quick job for the shop.

Looking for something simple to email them so they can follow it and understand what I was saying. Trouble for me is the shop it is at is about an hour away so it's not easy getting there and email is best for now.

[VXorado]

Ok...is there a how to or a write up on how to replace these?

My shop is intimidated by the VX just not wanting to mess it up and the computer is giving them a 6 + hour job estimate by dropping the whole axel and diff.

I have told them you can replace from the green cup out and it should be a quick job for the shop.

Looking for something simple to email them so they can follow it and understand what I was saying. Trouble for me is the shop it is at is about an hour away so it's not easy getting there and email is best for now.


The write-up is in the how-to section. I believe tom4bren wrote it.

[JHarris1385]

So utilize the MechTech boot How-to?

Not sure why they are intimidated.
They are the same shop that put my diff drop brackets on.

[tom4bren]

The write-up is in the how-to section. I believe tom4bren wrote it.

Yes it is ... & no I didn't. :) It's a great writeup & I'd like to take credit for it but I don't remember who did it (I may have converted it to pdf though). IIRC Billy gets the credit.


So utilize the MechTech boot How-to?

Not sure why they are intimidated.
They are the same shop that put my diff drop brackets on.

Yes,

Mebbe the previous job left them skeered. I learnt lots when I did it ... primarliy that I hope I don't hafta do it again.:) When I replaced the outter boots on Boys, the job only took me about 2 hours ... & then about another 2 hours scrubbing all the grease of'n me self.

[Triathlete]

Yep, thats my old write-up :)

[VXorado]

Billy wrote it, tom posted it. Effective cooperative effort. :_beer:



So utilize the MechTech boot How-to?

Not sure why they are intimidated.
They are the same shop that put my diff drop brackets on.

Just tell them them it's MUCH easier than installing the diff drop brackets. The mecatech guide will work, only addition is to pull the hub flange and half shaft retaining ring. That will allow you to remove the old half shaft for replacement.

[JoFotoz]

If the same guys did the diff drop... it should be an easy job for them.

Stoop time to do one side is about 2 hours... with distractions!!
So shop time should be less.!!

Make sure they clean out the "Green Cup' really well before putting in the new 1/2 shaft.

Jo

[VXD959]

Installed my new Surtrak axles (complete assembly). My mechanic took 3 weeks to do the job, but can't complain as he charged me only $470 (including replacing the differential seals / gaskets). I kept the original ones as spare.

One week of work was lost due to:

1) He could not find the wheels' key (I guess the previous owner forgot to include them - glad I found out before a flat tire!!!). The mechanic lost my phone number and he did not want to break the wheel key without my permission. I called a week later to check on the VX to find out that he did not work on it.

2) Rusted bolts that needed to be loosen.

3) I instructed him to take his time and go slowly. Thankfully he had worked on a Trooper axle replacement before and knew the complications.

JoFotoz - kudos to you for finding the replacement axles!!!:dance:

[MSHardeman]

I'm about to order the Surtrak axles to do a swap on Vicki. The front driver side CV (as far as I can tell) has started clicking something fierce when the power gets pushed forward and I don't like it. I'm going to order the complete assembly and replace the axle because my original green cup was damaged and repaired so I figure I might as well just replace it now. Since I'm replacing the driver side, I might as well replace the passenger side too so I'll order both axles from Surtrak. Guess I should get some new bearings while I'm at it.

My question for anyone who has done this swap is: do you have to drop the front axle housing in order to get the axles out of the housing or can they be removed using the above mentioned CV boot fix/swap?

[LittleBeast]

Dang, Daniel, wish I would have seen this post back when you did your shafts, I could have done them for you in my driveway, I have it down to about 2 hours per side at the most.


My question for anyone who has done this swap is: do you have to drop the front axle housing in order to get the axles out of the housing or can they be removed using the above mentioned CV boot fix/swap?

No need to drop diff, just disconnect lower ball joint from lower control arm and move out of the way to pull inner CV out from green cup.

[Triathlete]

To change the complete axle w/inner green cup yes you have to drop the diff to remove the retaining clips. I will be doing this in the near future at the same time I replace all my control arm bushings and replace a steering hose :)

[MSHardeman]

Billy, I need to look into this a little more, but are the axles held in place by some clips in the pumpkin or is everything that you need to remove outboard with no need to get into the pumpkin?

[LittleBeast]

Oh whoops, yeah if you have inspected the green cup and made sure it is in fact damaged then yes you need to drop the diff, because the plates that mount the diff to the frame are used to hold the green cups in the diff. But still many of us (me included) have done this in our garages or driveways. As stated before it is just messy and time consuming.

[MSHardeman]

Ryan, thanks for the heads up. So it sounds like you don't actually have to get into the center pumpkin (diff) to get the whole axle assembly out. I've got no problem taking my time and getting dirty so this will be a "fun" weekend project.

[Marlin]

X2 on Ryan. Remember, you don't have to break the Pitman arm loose, you can wiggle it out. I think that was the hardest thing to do the first I time I pulled it down to do the locker. The second time I did it, when I did the diff drop brackets, much easier, leave the steering alone. You will have to lower one side, then turn the wheel to the other direction and voila, problem solved! Have fun, it isn't a terrible job except not messing up the wheel seals. I screwed mine up, didn't prelube them, now I have a tiny gear oil leak, but not eenough to make me take it apart...lol. I would recommend some gear oil stable RTV.

[MSHardeman]

OK, got the SurTrack axles have been delivered and are sitting in the garage ready to go. I have axle bearings and axle seals on order and they will hopefully get here in the next week, or so. I'll pick up some gear oil and additive (which I can't remember what it is called right now) to replace any that may leak out during the axle swap. I plan on re-packing my front bearings while I'm at it so I'll get a couple of tubes of grease and some new seals for those.

Is there anything that I am missing? Do I need any kind of special tool? I already have a seal puller and access to a press to get the new bearing on the new axles (if that is necessary). Just want to make sure that I have everything lined out an ready to go before I start pulling things off the VX.

Thanks y'all!!

[MSHardeman]

Chris, you mentioned that you do NOT have to remove the pitman arm, but you do need to wiggle it out of the way. HUH? I'm guessing that once the lower ball joint is disconnected from the lower A-arm and maybe once the axle is loosened from the housing that there will be enough room to move things around without disconnecting the pitman arm?

Also, what is the purpose of turning the wheels? Does that give you enough room to slip the axle out of the front hubs?

I'm sure that I'll figure this out as I go, but I like to get a complete picture in my head before I dive into anything like this.

I'll try to remember to take pictures as I go so that others will benefit.

[PK]

Don't forget to check and repack the needle roller bearing that goes inside the hub and runs on the outer CV shaft.

PK

[MSHardeman]

Good call PK. I'll be sure to do that.

To tell you the truth I didn't even know that those were there, but logically there needs to be something there for the shaft to spin in.

This repair should be "fun".

[Mile High VX]

Let me know when you're going to do this Mark.

I would like to come and be your helper and learn if it works out...:bwgy::smilewink:bgwo::bgwb:

[MSHardeman]

Earl, I'll probably be starting on this mid-morning on Saturday, March 29th. I'll be hitting all of the pertinent bolts with PB Blaster on Friday night, but there may still be some cussing, screaming and general grouchy-ness as things unfold. I have the following week off, so I won't be in any rush to get it done quickly, but I do want to get it done right.

You, and anyone else who wants to, is welcome to come on by to watch/help the festivities. My garage isn't that big so it might get crowded, but it could be fun. I totally plan on taking copious amounts of pictures to document the whole swap so if you don't want to drive the three and some odd hours you can wait for the book. :biggringr

[Mile High VX]

Thanks Mark.

I'll be in Houston that weekend at the Sport Clips national franchise meeting so I'm out...:(

Look forward to the How To.

[MSHardeman]

Did anybody know that our axle bearings are NOT pressed onto the axles? Who knew!?

Just took a look at the extra axle that I have so I could get a feel for what I will be up against when I do the axle swap. I was worried that I would need a press to get the new bearings on the new axles, but both the axle seal and the bearing are each held on by a snap ring that seats into a groove in the axle. SUPER COOL! That's going to make axle removal and replacement a lot easier than I thought (knock on wood).

I'll take pictures of the swap for anyone who cares.

[Triathlete]

Good to know.

[LittleBeast]

Yes the front axle seals are easy to replace. The rears however require heating and a press.

[JAMAS]

I'll take pictures of the swap for anyone who cares.


This would be a great help!!! Please take detailed pictures of each step along the way.

[VehiTONY]

Just going on the record that I bought the SurTrack IZ-8021 CV Axle Shaft from Amazon for both sides and they fit great! With no issues at all!.... Thanks for the info on this site. I will be making a donation on payday since the info on this sight seems to pay off in a way that no other has. -- Thanks everyone for contributing!!

[JoFotoz]

Kudos to ya....


Thanks for the info on this site. I will be making a donation on payday since the info on this sight seems to pay off in a way that no other has. -- Thanks everyone for contributing!!

..... helping to keep this great site up and running is the best
money you'll ever spend on your VX IMO :thumbup:

I know its saved me LOADS of $$'s !

Jo

[VehiTONY]

I had these (SurTrack IZ-8021 CV Axle Shaft) put on mine yesterday and found some play and leakage behind the green cup.... anyone have ideas on this? Seems like maybe a clip or something should be inside the green cup to hold it still.

[MSHardeman]

I'm confused. Is there play IN the green cup or does the green cup itself move? The half shaft should slide around in the green cup (toward and away from the centerline of the VX). This allows the half shaft to "grow" or shorten in length as the front wheels go through their travel (up and down). There is a little wire "C" shaped ring that fits into a groove at the edge of the green cup to keep the inner CV joint in place, but you really don't need it. Once everything is put back together the suspension doesn't travel enough to allow the inner CV joint to slide out of the green cup.

I can't remember from when I replace my half shafts, but there may be a little in/out play with the green cup itself. If there is an excessive amount of play then something is either loose or worn out where the axle (with the green cup) connects to the axle housing. If that were the case, though, I would think that you might have a fluid leak where the axle goes into the axle housing (which, now that I re-read your post seems like what is happening). There is a seal where the axle goes into the axle housing that could go bad. I think that is what Bart (nfpgasmask) had to replace, which prompted his write-up.

If pictures will help you to visualize everything, I have an extra axle assembly that has the axle bearing, spacer, snap ring and the plate that attaches to the axle housing all assembled. I can take some pictures of that tonight so you can see what is going on in the axle housing.

[bartmanS4]

Tony, if by behind you mean inside towards the differential then you may have a leaky axle oil seal. See number 6 in pic.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/VX_Manual_pg432-page-001.jpg

[tom4bren]

There are instructions with pix located here:

http://www.vehicross.info/modules.php?name=Content&file=viewarticle&id=49

[VehiTONY]

It sounds like your on the right track. The entire green cup moves. And it is leacking behind the cup. Which makes me wonder how if the green cup was not removed since they are half shaft replacements. I would appriciate some pictures though. If you have time pales send them to me at tony.c.0313@gmail.com. I'm taking it back to the mechanic to have him inspect it. I hope it is a easy fix since I am broke at the moment.

[MSHardeman]

Take a look at the link that Tom posted. If you click on the first of the two downloads in the thread you will be able to see the axle assembly on page five, six and seven. That is about the same picture that I would take of the one that I have at home so we can use it and the diagram that Scott posted to figure it out.

Just like Scott said, it is probably your axle oil seal that is leaking. The axle is mounted to the axle housing by a plate (#7 in diagram from bartmanS4) with four bolts in it. That plate has mounts on it that, in turn, mount to the frame to hold the whole axle housing in place. The axle (with the green cup - #9) slides through a hole in the plate and then on into the axle housing (#1). Once the axle is through the hole in the plate you then slide on the oil seal (#6) which snugs up against the plate and is then press fit into the axle housing to stop the fluid in the axle housing from leaking out.

After the oil seal is on you would then slide the first snap ring on (#5) to keep the seal in place, then the axle bearing (#4), then the last snap ring (#3). Once all of that is assembled outside of the axle housing, you would then feed the axle into the housing. When you do that you, or your mechanic, would need to be careful because as the bearing and the oil seal seat into the axle housing you could pinch or mis-align the oil seal which would cause a leak. I believe a leak is what prompted Bart (nfpgasmask) to do his front axle rebuild - http://blog.isuzugeek.org/2011/08/vehicross-front-axle-rebuild.html

I haven't had to do it, but from what I understand replacing the axle oil seal isn't necessarily a tough job, but it is a bit time consuming (Tom's diff drop write up shows the front axle removal).

I hope some of that helps. If you still need pictures let me know and I'll take a few tonight.

[JHarris1385]

Im grinding after install. Im wondering if they are inferior. Its been 6 months since install.

[MSHardeman]

Do you have an idea of what is grinding? Did you goop (it's a technical term) a bunch of grease into the green cup before you installed the half shafts? Where the inner CV joints packed with grease before installation? Are the boots still intact and clamped in place?

As far as I could tell the SurTrack axles are VERY well made. I had the SurTrack's sitting side-by-side with my stock half shafts and, if anything, the SurTrack's looked like they were made of beefier stuff. :_confused

[tom4bren]

It sounds like your on the right track. The entire green cup moves. And it is leacking behind the cup. Which makes me wonder how if the green cup was not removed since they are half shaft replacements. I would appriciate some pictures though. If you have time pales send them to me at tony.c.0313@gmail.com. I'm taking it back to the mechanic to have him inspect it. I hope it is a easy fix since I am broke at the moment.

The green cup could have been removed.

We all talk about the easy method (see MechaTech boot install instruction in the Download section).

But ... the shop probably didn't know of that method & could have dropped the entire axle assembly in order to remove the bad 1/2 shaft. I had to go through that whenever I installed the diff drops on mine. It's quite a bit of work to go through if you don't have to.

The seals are probably not very expensive. If you & a buddy or 2 are willing to give it a shot, you can do the entire job in your driveway with common tools (might have to pick up a few at Harbor Freight - but you're probably still looking at less than $100 to get'r done).

[JHarris1385]

Had a shot complete the job.