Help w/ replacing Door Handle Pin

[tysamigo]

I have removed both door handles completely. Now I need to separate the actual HANDLE from the assembly. There is a PIN that holds them together. I need to drill out the pin and then later replace it. However, I can't find a replacement. I've tried Merlin, the guy who painted my VX and his crew, 2 of the largest and oldest local body shops (open since 1940-1950's), the guys at Fastenal, and Louisville Fasteners and ALL with no luck.

I've been told I would have to have something fabricated or use an ALL THREAD which basically looks like a long skinny bolt but is threaded the entire length and then to have 2 nuts on each end.

This is the only idea so far.

Any suggestions???????

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/thumbs/20130509_101502.jpg (http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=23683)

[Cobrajet]

I would think that you could find some kind of rod (or nail) that diameter and length at a hardware store. Flush valve rod... toy car axle...

Think outside the box. :)

[bartmanS4]

Are you sure you have to drill the pin out? Could it be pressed out and reused?

[tysamigo]

Are you sure you have to drill the pin out? Could it be pressed out and reused?

That was my first thought, but 2 of the guys (both of them own presses) said that it's unlikely it would make it without damaging the end of the pin OR the plastic handle itself if they were to try and remove it by pressing it out...

:confused:

[tom4bren]

It looks like it is actually a piece of tubing that has been flared at each end.

You can pick up a flaring tool at Harbor Freight (or I can loan you mine) & you'll just have to find the right sized tube at your local hardware store (or plumbing or air conditioning supply store).

It shouldn't be too complicated & you can practice on a scrap piece before you get started so you can make sure it'll work out for you.

The flaring tool will just spread out the diameter of the tube so that it won't go back through the hole. If you want to actually curl the edge of the tube over (like shown in the picture), you can pick up a cheapo snap repair kit at Lowes that has a punch like thinggy that you hammer onto the end causing that curling effect (I have one of those too if you need to borrow it).

[tysamigo]

It looks like it is actually a piece of tubing that has been flared at each end.

It's actually a pin, and a VERY hard and durable pin at that. Merlin confirmed it's a pin and that a Pin/Spring Kit was once available from a 3rd party but they are no longer in business and he has no idea where to search. It's just like a pin that you would have in the door hinges in your home but much smaller. It's surprisingly sturdy. I'm guessing because of all the pressure it has to endure from the force of the spring.

2 different guys at body shops today made a comment that they've not seen metal pins in door handles before. They said all the door handles they see are pretty much plastic. They kept asking "uh... what did you say they came out of" lol

I'm still clueless as to what to do... but I won't quit. I HAVE to do this project. It's the only thing holding me up right now :confused:

[tom4bren]

It's actually a pin, and a VERY hard and durable pin at that.

I believe you that it is hard & strong ... but I see a hole in the center of the "pin". Where I come from, a hollow pin is a "tube".:)

OK, since you've so effectively POO-POO'd my idea, here's another:

You only need to grind off the curl on one end, & then you should be able to drive the pin out. Now take the pin & tap some threads into the hole. Next take a hack-saw & make a cut lengthwise about 1/2" deep into the threaded end. Run the tap into it again to make sure you didn't goober up the threads. When you are ready to re-assemble, drive the pin in & secure with a panhead screw of the proper size, thread, & length. The screw will expand the end of the pin and secure it in the plastic hinge. You can crimp down the end of the pin a little to make sure it doesn't hang up when you are putting it back in since the screw will be forcing it back apart.

I can try to draw a picture of what I'm talking about if that'd help.

[tom4bren]

I'm not much of a draftsman but this is what I was thinking.


http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/door_handle_pin_repair.jpg

Why are you taking it apart anyway? If it's for a repair, you can probably source replacements from a boneyard. If it's for some kind of modification ... then understandable.

[Chopper]

A new handle sounds a whole heck of a lot easier.
You'll end up buying one, after you spooge yours up with a grinder :mado:
It's just a standard Isuzu door handle I believe.
Likely get a new one for not a whole bunch o money.

[tysamigo]

Yes, I am doing this for a MOD.

The door handle assembly and the door handle will be wrapped in CF, then coated with clear. I will also have an LED strip just under the handle to light up the door handle area at night. I'm also looking into changing the lock so that the lock has a HALO LIGHT around the keyhole.

For any of this to happen I have to disassemble and reassemble...

Tom... that seems like an idea. I'm having a bit of trouble understanding at the moment but I'm going to keep looking at it. THANKS MAN :)

AND I'm wondering if I can find something at a door hinge distributor or somethting like that.

The pin APPEARS to be hollow only because that end of the pin was pressed by a machine. The pin is solid for sure, but at one end (and only at one end), the end that is showing in the pic, has a "lip" that is pressed by a machine press once it's inserted.

[tom4bren]

The pin APPEARS to be hollow only because that end of the pin was pressed by a machine. The pin is solid for sure, but at one end (and only at one end),

OK, gotcha.

the end that is showing in the pic, has a "lip" that is pressed by a machine press once it's inserted.

That's the end you'll need to work on. You may have to actually drill that hole deeper though before you tap & cut.





I'll PM you my cell # in case you want to discuss.

[ron]

Couldn't you just run one of these through and call it a day?

http://2.imimg.com/data2/RQ/JO/MY-3300687/long-bolts-500x500.jpg
It doesn't appear that the nut or head will interfere with anything as long as you get the proper length and diameter. HTH. rudy

[etlsport]

I would worry about any threads exposed tearing up the plastic every time the handle is used or binding up.

I like Toms idea of drilling and tapping the OEM to accept a bolt, only issue i see is that the bolt would have to be very small and could bend or break if it spans any joints. Plus the threads in the plastic.

What i would do is get a steel rod of the same diameter and cut threads into the outside of each end so you can put a nut on as a stopper. That way there are no threads under the plastic and you have the maximum diameter possible.

You could probably go even lower tech and just drill a hole at each end and put a cotter pin through to hold it in place..... Or score a grove with a pipe cutter and use a snap ring. There shouldn't be much if any lateral force on the pin, it will all be shear.

[tysamigo]

I took it to the owner of a small company that (for the lack of a better word at the moment) "plays with metal" for over 30 years including welding, making huge fancy fences, doors, artwork, etc.

We found that the Door Handle Pin is identical to one of these nails that he had (16d w/hot dipped coating of something). It's 153 Thousands of an inch and about 4 1/4" long. The nails are the same except they are not available in that length, so he's going to make a couple of pins by welding 2 nails together, painting over the weld to prevent rust, used the flat end of the nail for the pressed end, and the other he will flatten out to hold it in.

It should work... I'll keep you posted...

[tysamigo]

I would worry about any threads exposed tearing up the plastic every time the handle is used or binding up.
Yeah, this is what everyone has agreed upon


What i would do is get a steel rod of the same diameter and cut threads into the outside of each end so you can put a nut on as a stopper. That way there are no threads under the plastic and you have the maximum diameter possible.
This is the next idea, however there were a couple of bumps. The size of steel rod is so small that I would have to do some research. We called a few of the big steel companies from google searching that specialize is "smaller orders" and it's not a common size so it's a special order which would require a large order. Also the steel rods would not come coated. I would have to coat them myself. Also, the amount of space is so small (as you pointed out) that the nut would have to be TINY and effective... This can all be done, but costly and timely... but I will go this route if the first idea doesnt work (welding 2 nails together)...

[tysamigo]

I purchased 2 Steel Rods from a local steel dist., each are 12' long and are 5/32" Cold Roll. Larry (the metal guy) is going to make 2 sets of pins (one to use now and one as a back-up), however the extra rods are being pre-cut so that we can make more pins in the future.

My hope is that this will all work perfectly. If it does (and I will follow up as the project is finished) then I can offer to anyone in the group, sets of these pins.

If you ever decide to remove your door handle and have it painted, sprayed w/Linex, wrapped in CF or whatever the case may be, it is best to dissassemble the handles and if you do this, you will need a new set of pins.

I will keep you posted...