A Different Window Problem

[fotomaker]

I have scoured the existing threads and yet as much as there is here on the subject I haven't seen this problem.

My passenger window was closed when I got out of the VX the other day.
I went back 20 minutes later and it was half open.

Attempting to raise the window conventionally had no effect except a clicking sound. I then tried down on the control button and it opened completely. It would not go back up. Just the clicking as I toggled the button up and down.

I came to the forum, searched, and started reading page after page.
I learned how to remove the door panel and did.

My white plastic clips are fine. It seems that however the cable attached to the cross member that the white plastic clips and window are mounted to has broke and/or separated. The clicking sound is when a small metal block on the cable rolls over the top pulley on the regulator. With this metal block at the top I can raise and lower the window manually. I can even lower it electrically as when the block descends it engages the window support and lowers as it should. When I use the button with the block at the bottom, it cables to the top and makes that clicking sound as it rolls over the top pulley. Also, with the block at the bottom, I can't move the window manually. The block appears to engage and work properly lowering the window but fails to engage properly when raising the window.

Has anyone had this problem?
I'm wondering if it can be repaired or if a new regulator is the only solution?

I was able to close the window to seal the interior from the elements with the creative application of a 12" bungee cord.
I appreciate any input... Thanks!

Jeff

[KRemo]

If the regulator cable is broken the it needs to be replaced. You can't repair the cable because it will not work smoothly and you end up with the same problem as before with the window. If the cable is not broken just the metal frame I would not think it would hold up to the stress of the window normal operation. The new regulator will fix all your problems

[VX KAT]

A brand new regulator is only about $95 from Merlin, and I think they're in the US, so no long wait.

[fotomaker]

Thanks for the input... And thanks to all the info available here I have successfully removed the door panel and the window regulator.

My problem is the white plastic parts of the crossbar that raise and lower the window are cracked and broken. My window clips that the SBC bracket replaces look fine. Is it possible to just replace this crossbar?

Here are photos:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSF8764.jpghttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSF8774.jpghttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSF8772.jpghttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSF8770.jpghttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSF8765.jpg

[tom4bren]

I posted a response in the other thread you posted in:

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?threadid=22917&page=7

[fotomaker]

Thanks!

[Bill Brown]

A brand new regulator is only about $95 from Merlin, and I think they're in the US, so no long wait.Well, Alltech (http://www.alltechautoclovisca.com/) spent a bunch of hours ($$) and elbow grease attempting to repair my VX driver and passenger windows, but to no avail. They installed new regulators. Both windows still do not close properly as before the "repair" job. Seems I just got a lot of silicon lubricant on the edges of the windows. Actually, I trust Alltech installed new parts, but those parts did not resolve the window closing problem.

Could you provide the part numbers for those brand new driver side and passenger side window regulators for a VX, plus contact info/URL for Merlin? TIA.

[EVO]

There was a thread on here that fixed my window problem, it basically reccommended pulling out the window seal and using ducbill type visegrips to open up the channel up inside bottom of the window. Did both sides and the windows race up and down fast. NOO Binding!!!!!

[Bill Brown]

There was a thread on here that fixed my window problem, it basically reccommended pulling out the window seal and using ducbill type visegrips to open up the channel up inside bottom of the window. Did both sides and the windows race up and down fast. NOO Binding!!!!!Did this fix result in wind noise, water leakage or rattling?

[EVO]

No problems at all, my window channel was so tight before, it would rip the window out of the brackets. Problem solved by simple mod. You do realize you have to put the window seal back in the channel. This mod just eleviates binding windows. Mine use to go up and down pretty slow until they eventually snatched my window right out of the brackets. Some people say lube them, and if that works for you great! Mine needed a more permanent solution. Worked for me!!

[Bill Brown]

Binding pulls both my windows forward and out of their rear tracks. Your mod experience sounds very promising. Thanks for the info.

[VX KAT]

Well, Alltech (http://www.alltechautoclovisca.com/) spent a bunch of hours ($$) and elbow grease attempting to repair my VX driver and passenger windows, but to no avail. They installed new regulators. Both windows still do not close properly as before the "repair" job. Seems I just got a lot of silicon lubricant on the edges of the windows. Actually, I trust Alltech installed new parts, but those parts did not resolve the window closing problem.

Could you provide the part numbers for those brand new driver side and passenger side window regulators for a VX, plus contact info/URL for Merlin? TIA.

Since writing that post, Merlin has left that former Isuzu dealership AND Isuzu pulled the plug on VX parts to dealerships. But SOME people are finding they can still get some parts from Scarff Isuzu.

RE the windows: This is probably the #1 common problem VX owners experience and has been discussed here dozens and dozens of times, with SEVERAL helpful "FIXES".
I compiled many of the "window fix" threads here on the forum into one post.

Some of these fixes worked for most, but some found one of the others did the trick, so you may have to try a few.

Widening my front track (like evo mentioned) really fixed mine, along with the SBC metal brackets and regular silicone spray lubrication.

THESE ARE ALL REALLY DOABLE FOR THE NOVICE DIYer! I DID MINE HAVING NEVER TOUCHED A DOOR IN MY LIFE. THERE'S SEVERAL PICTURES ALSO to help you do these.

So get yourself a snack and a drink and start reading...it'll be a while! :laugho:
But seriously, I think virtually everybody found a fix in this list.
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showpost.php?p=255648&postcount=6


Invaluable info like this is why so many of us feel the $20 annual site donation pays for itself MANY MANY times over! :thumbup:

Good luck!

[Bill Brown]

So get yourself a snack and a drink and start reading...it'll be a while! :laugho:
But seriously, I think virtually everybody found a fix in this list.
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showpost.php?p=255648&postcount=6


Invaluable info like this is why so many of us feel the $20 annual site donation pays for itself MANY MANY times over! :thumbup:

Good luck!Thanks for the link. How I miss the days when I sneered with disdain at those poor souls with their window problems.:evil: Actually, just thought I lucked out. Unfortunately, after more than a dozen carefree years, fate eventually caught up with my VX windows.

I do alright with home related DIY stuff, but motor vehicles are my DIY Kryptonite.

BTW, when it comes to donations, Vehicross.info is a tax-exempt religious institution, right?:angel:

[Mile High VX]

BTW, when it comes to donations, Vehicross.info is a tax-exempt religious institution, right?:angel:

For some more than others Bill....:bwgy::smilewink:bgwo::bgwb:

[ahdoman]

I just redid my windows. I'm glad I did the plastic tabs were still in tact but had some small cracks. I simply fabricated some small metal plates that I bonded to the plastic tabs and all is good now. But, the real problem I was having was with the rubber track in the front. It's real easy for the rubber to not completely seat correctly in the forward track. There's a lip on both the inside and outside of the rubber that needs to clip over the inside and outside edge of the track. If you don't get this right the window will bind in the track. It's very easy to pull the lip off the front of the track when you install the window. This jams it into the track and the window will bind because there's too much rubber in the track. I also trimmed down the inside lip of the rubber as well. Also, it's really easy for the rubber to get pinched where it goes from the inside of the door to the outside again at the front (by the mirror). There are several different pieces of rubber that all merge at the very front of the door. If they aren't all lined up they will pinch the window as it tries to rise at the front. The window then begins to tilt forward and bind. If it's bad enough the window angle never recovers.

[Bill Brown]

...But, the real problem I was having was with the rubber track in the front....Your problem description sure sounded like what I'm experiencing, the front rubber tracks binding the windows when being raised. Think I'll run your solution by the shop techs. Thanks.

[ahdoman]

I also bent the front track SLIGHTLY so the window aligns better. Do this last after everything else. You'll need to run the window up and down to test it. If you bend it incorrectly you'll hear the window bind. Small bends make a big difference. My windows move so freely now there's no need for lube. I was able to wipe the rubber clean and it's plenty slippery without any lube.

[VX KAT]

I also bent the front track SLIGHTLY so the window aligns better. Do this last after everything else. You'll need to run the window up and down to test it. If you bend it incorrectly you'll hear the window bind. Small bends make a big difference. My windows move so freely now there's no need for lube. I was able to wipe the rubber clean and it's plenty slippery without any lube.

Pic of the front window track.
Can see scratch marks where I used pliers to widen it. I also angled it slightly just as ahdoman mentions above.
All this was written up by "Phines" several years ago. He had pics as well.
It relieves/reduces the friction between the glass edge and the rubber molding the glass fits into, so it won't bind/"pinch" and slow down the upward movement of the glass.

Many owners have had the window MOTOR burn out after years of it trying to raise the glass against this friction.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/DSCN0824.jpg

[Bill Brown]

Thanks, VX KAT. Guess one benefit of having a late blooming windows problem is there's a ton of info about possible fixes.