'Nother newb CV joint questions *sigh*

[ben-man]

Hey all,

Just looked under the VX today when doing the fall/winter oil change and noticed my passenger side outer boot was completely ripped all the way around. Felt inside and didn't feel any grit in the grease but I'm worried about how long I've been driving like this (checked the boots when I changed my oil in the spring and they seemed fine).
Anyway, the inner boots are fine - no tears or leaks. The inner cups appear ok as well - no leaks anyway.
So, I know there's a DIY from Tom about how to replace the outer boots, but if the outer joint is somehow compromised (haven't noticed any clicking or play in the wheel yet) and needs to be replaced, which axle shaft do I need to buy?
The one with the inboard housing?
http://www.partstrain.com/store/details/Isuzu/VehiCROSS/A1_Cardone/Axle_Assembly/1999/Base/6_Cyl_3-dot-5L/A1601310.html?location=Front-comma-_Passenger_Side
or the one without the inboard housing?
http://www.partstrain.com/store/details/Isuzu/VehiCROSS/A1_Cardone/Axle_Assembly/1999/Base/6_Cyl_3-dot-5L/A1601349S.html?location=Front-comma-_Passenger_Side
Are there better shafts out there somewhere. I've heard that the cardone rebuilds aren't the greatest. Are the new ones any better?
Also, I'm confused on wether it's better to replace the whole shaft up to the green cup or just the outer joint itself. If I do replace the outer joint, can I somehow mate the new parts onto the old shaft? Sorry for all the ???
Thanks in advance,
ben

[Triathlete]

If you have no clicking noises the cv's should be okay. Just be sure to clean the joint thoroughly with brake cleaner before putting the new boot on and repack it with grease.

[ojmagg]

+1 on what Triathlete said. It's 4 bolts, a c-clip and a snap ring...messy, easy job. Just replaced all 4 boots...Napa carries good, thick, ply-able boots. Used HD Zip-ties...make sure you re-install the bearing race the correct way...I didn't and had to pull it all back apart...after I had it all re-booted :(:confused::(

[JoFotoz]

Yup... if outer race isnt 'clicking'...a good clean and re-pack should work.

If you do decide to replace outer 1/2 shaft, take a look here:-

http://vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=24109&highlight=cv+axle

These SurTrack axles are an excellent fit, basically OEM specs and design.

HOWEVER..they are only good for normal road or light off road use..
..not for aggressive rock crawling etc.

Cheers

jo

[tom4bren]

Ben,

Definitely try to just replace the boot first (with a good cleaning/re-greasing). I'm 90% sure that's all you'll need & buying new shafts at this point would be a waste of $$$.

If your CV is bad ... you'll know right away by the awful sound it makes.

Tom

[ben-man]

Ok... thanks guys, you talked me down off the ledge :happyface
Just ordered a full set of MechaTech boots from independant4x.com.
Hopefully they get here sometime this week and I can get them swapped out this weekend.

Just a question tho... I did a quick search for the mevotechs on Google and came across this company
https://autopartsfreak.sophio.com
(after I paid $140 + shipping for the kit from indy4x - of course :mady:) and looks like I could have saved a few bucks. Anybody ever heard of/used them?

[tom4bren]

Sorry but no, I haven't tried mevotech boots.

I've used the MechaTech's from Indy4x & didn't like them.

I've used Dorman & didn't like them.

I've used NAPA & will always order from them again if needed.

[ben-man]

Ben,

Definitely try to just replace the boot first (with a good cleaning/re-greasing). I'm 90% sure that's all you'll need & buying new shafts at this point would be a waste of $$$.

If your CV is bad ... you'll know right away by the awful sound it makes.

Tom

Hey Tom,

So now that Christmas is all done with, I'm back under the VX today and using your mecatech writeup. I have the passenger-side inner CV pulled, disassembled and cleaned and I have the boot cut off the outer CV. How did you clean you outer CV joints while still attached to the hub? Is there an easy way to pull that joint apart as well? I've already sprayed it with 1 1/2 cans of brake cleaner and it seems ok but since this was the CV with the torn boot, I'd feel better if I could pull it completely apart and clean it like I did with the inner CV. Just want to make sure It's Completely grit free before I slide the new boots on.

[Triathlete]

To remove the outer joint you need to pull the cover off the hub. There is a C clip you pull and then the joint/shaft will slide out.

[zadam123]

Hi guys . My cv boot is also ripped and went to buy the outer at autoz one but they only sold the complete axle. I want up taking the hub off the carand trying to see how to separate the axle,but I cannot find the C clip that everybody is talking about. Does anybody have a clean picture of where it is. I also don't know what everybody's talking about with a green Cup if you have any pictures of that as well please post. I took the part of the boot off the axle that I bought from autozone off (the part of the boot which is the closest to the shaft that goes into the drivetrain. I did not see anything that looked like a c clip f but then again there was a lot of grease in there)
just curious has anyone brought their car to a mechanic to change that Axel and if so how much does it cost it's my passenger side front?

[Triathlete]

When you remove the hub you will see the spline end of the shaft. About 1/4 inch back on the shaft you will see the clip.

[Triathlete]

Remove hub cover
http://s370.photobucket.com/user/Triathlete/media/shafts/IMG_0531-1.jpg.html?sort=3&o=10

Retaining clip is about 1/4 inch in on the spline shaft in the center
http://s370.photobucket.com/user/Triathlete/media/shafts/IMG_0535.jpg.html?sort=3&o=6

You can then remove the hub
http://s370.photobucket.com/user/Triathlete/media/shafts/IMG_0536.jpg.html?sort=3&o=5

Also be sure to remove the retaining ring on the back side of the hub. It is a wire ring in the ball race that sits in a groove. You can feel it with your finger. You can remove it with a small screw driver.

[zadam123]

Tha ks. I just found a boot kit from autozone and am going to try to use that it's a uni fit and says it fits the vx. I have one more question.

When you remove the wheel hub the is a cylinder the shaft is still in do I have to remove the spindle to slide the axle out of the cylinder and totally expose the axle so I can slide the boot on??

Tha ks

[Triathlete]

No, if you turn the wheel all the way to one side plus your lower ball joint is disconnected there is enough wiggle room to get the inner joint out...then you can easily pull the shaft out from the hub.

[zadam123]

I got the hub off but I'm trying to figure out how to take off the back plate so I can get to the axle shaft without the cylinder on the right of this picture.

[zadam123]

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/2014-12-29_09_42_49.jpg
I got the hub off but I'm trying to figure out how to take off the back plate so I can get to the axle shaft without the cylinder on the right of this picture.

[MSHardeman]

I'm confused (but then again, that's easy to do). It looks like you have everything taken apart and the whole axle assembly should slide right out the back of the hub. The splined shaft that is on the far right of you picture is actually part of the half shaft and is attached to the outer CV joint (which as far as I know can't be disassembled). Might have to give the end of the splined shaft a gentle whack with a dead blow hammer to get it to start moving. Like Billy said, as long as the inner joint at the "green cup" is disassembled it should give you enough room to remove the whole half shaft.

Saying that, if no one has told you yet; once you get the inner CV joint boot off of the "green cup" (which is actually the outer race for the inner joint and is part of the axle shaft that fits into the front third member) there is a "snap ring" that is seated into a groove about 1/4" in from the edge of the green cup. If you use a screw driver to pry it out of the grove then the ball and cage assembly of the inner CV joint should pull right out.

[Triathlete]

Yep... what Mark said. You have more than enough torn down on the front side. Cut the band on the boot, pull the boot back, use brake cleaner to clean out most of the greese. Then locate the "wire" ring in the groove on the race about a 1/4 inch in. Pop it out with a small screw driver and the shaft, cage and balls will slide right out.

[VXorado]

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/2014-12-29_09_42_49.jpg

Looks like you haven't removed the lower ball joint from the control arm yet... that's a must to seperate the half-shaft from the spindle (which I believe you're calling the cylinder).

[MSHardeman]

Jon, I would have to, respectfully, disagree. When I replaced my front half shafts I didn't have to remove the lower ball joint to get the shaft out. Once the inner CV joint is taken apart there is more than enough room to get the whole shaft to slide out of the spindle from behind.

Umm, did we mention that? I assume (you know what they say about that) that you know the shaft needs to slide out of the spindle towards the center of the VX, but if you've never done this repair before it might not be that obvious.

[Bird Dog 36]

Just looking at your picture, it appears that you have not unbolted the lower ball joint yet. This will be critical to give you the room you need to get the shaft out.

[VXorado]

Jon, I would have to, respectfully, disagree. When I replaced my front half shafts I didn't have to remove the lower ball joint to get the shaft out. Once the inner CV joint is taken apart there is more than enough room to get the whole shaft to slide out of the spindle from behind.

Umm, did we mention that? I assume (you know what they say about that) that you know the shaft needs to slide out of the spindle towards the center of the VX, but if you've never done this repair before it might not be that obvious.

But without the lower balljoint unbolted from the control arm, how do you have enough room to split the inner CV from the green cup?

From my experience, there's not enough width (green cup to spindle) to pull the CV from the green cup without the ball joint disconnected. I always removed the hub and lower BJ, removed the boot clamp & retaining ring on green cup, pulled the spindle away & upward (seperating the green cup & CV), moved the free end of the half-shaft toward the side and finally pulled the halfshaft from the spindle.

If there's an alternative method, I'd love to learn it! It would save a bit of time if you don't have to remove the lower ball joint.

[MSHardeman]

Jon, you might be correct. I remember removing the lower ball joint from the passenger side when I did my half shaft swap, but I don't remember removing it from the driver side. I could swear that there was enough room with the lower ball joint still attached to get the inner CV joint taken apart. They say that the memory is the first to go so maybe I did remove the lower ball joint on the driver side. :_confused

Well, if you can't get the inner CV joint disassembled with the lower ball joint attached we'll have our answer and you'll have to remove the lower ball joint to get everything to come out. Sorry for any confusion.

[Triathlete]

Yep...you want to remove the lower ball joint from the control arm (4 bolts).

[VXorado]

No worries Mark. :thumbup:

Replacing half-shaft has been one of my most common & most despised services to the VX. I suppose I'll soon forget the entire procedure.



Jon, you might be correct. I remember removing the lower ball joint from the passenger side when I did my half shaft swap, but I don't remember removing it from the driver side. I could swear that there was enough room with the lower ball joint still attached to get the inner CV joint taken apart. They say that the memory is the first to go so maybe I did remove the lower ball joint on the driver side. :_confused

Well, if you can't get the inner CV joint disassembled with the lower ball joint attached we'll have our answer and you'll have to remove the lower ball joint to get everything to come out. Sorry for any confusion.