Inside Door Handle - got any tips for making it stronger

[Mile High VX]

So my inside passenger door handle cracked....again. I have a replacement coming but this is the third one for the passenger side and I'm on the second for the drivers side.

Anyone have any tips for making it stronger before I install it?

They break where the groove is that holds them in place with the insert that mounts to the door and the door panel. I thought about putting some industrial strength adhesive here but if I do that it won't sit flush on the insert.

Thanks for the help.

[89Vette]

On mine, the recessed hole broke out. I epoxied a metal washer in it's place to the "shell". The screw holds the washer against the door...while the shell is epoxied to that washer (if that makes sense).

If starting with a replacement, considering running epoxy (plastic compatible) around the outer edge of the recessed hole. By that, I mean on the backside of the trim piece. It might help to use a washer on the outer side (depending on how yours are splitting out). I would also inspect the retainer that goes in the door -- that you screw the trim piece into. Seems odd you are breaking so many of these trim pieces! Maybe your mount is not flat?

You might also fill the entire recessed mounting hole with epoxy then redrill it. Your screw will sit up a bit higher -- but you'll have a thicker trim piece-to-door mounting point.

Otherwise, you could probably have a metal fabricator duplicate most (if not all) of the trim piece. Maybe a "u" shaped piece to start (with the hole in it), then weld top/bottom "sides" to it. To that, cut off and bond the outer trim square for a finished look? That's if you can't get anything else to stay....you brute! :-)

[Mile High VX]

Thanks for the suggestions.

[VX KAT]

Thanks for the suggestions.

Earl, I used PC7 reinforced with steel to fix and really reinforce the cracks in the handle. They all cracked in the same exact place. I did about 4 or 5 of them. The PC7 epoxy was like cement. :smack:

One handle was missing a small chunk at the rearward curved end, so I used PC7 to recreate it.

I also put some PC7 in the long skinny trough to give it some reinforcement as it's the main grab surface and the outer edge gets moved slightly with each grab. Sanded it down with a small metal file so it still fit properly. (pics 6 and 7).

Technique: Glopped it on generously, sanded everything down, spray painted -> done. Some of my earlier versions I didn't sand quite enough, so some weren't perfectly smooth.

Now that I see that FlexSeal stuff advertised, I'm wondering if it could be used as the "top coat" of paint. It's somewhat textured so would be a good grab surface.

I don't have a pic, but I also used the PC7 to reinforce a few of the screw "tubes" so they wouldn't break off, as I saw many had.

Here's some pics.

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_1689.jpeg (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/photokat4/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_1689.jpeg.html)



http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_1945.jpeg (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/photokat4/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_1945.jpeg.html)



http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_1992.jpeg (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/photokat4/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_1992.jpeg.html)



http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_2003.jpeg (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/photokat4/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_2003.jpeg.html)


http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_1698.jpeg (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/photokat4/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_1698.jpeg.html)


http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/Mobile%20Uploads/DSCN0181.jpeg (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/photokat4/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSCN0181.jpeg.html)



http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/Mobile%20Uploads/DSCN0165.jpeg (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/photokat4/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSCN0165.jpeg.html)



http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/Mobile%20Uploads/DSCN0213.jpeg (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/photokat4/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSCN0213.jpeg.html)


http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/Mobile%20Uploads/DSCN0141.jpeg (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/photokat4/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSCN0141.jpeg.html)

http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/g386/photokat4/Mobile%20Uploads/DSCN0207.jpeg (http://s1099.photobucket.com/user/photokat4/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSCN0207.jpeg.html)

[Mile High VX]

Thanks Sue.

[VX KAT]

what does anybody think about spraying them with FlexSeal? (maybe even without the PC7). Maybe that slight flex it leaves would prevent it from cracking any further??

[89Vette]

I might need to clarify/apologize. My TOP passenger door handle broke recently. I was thinking about...and repaired the latch/lever bezel that you pull to open the door from the inside. I'd call the mechanism that grabs the jam a LATCH...so I was thinking handle for that release lever! LOL Now that I see the lower handle pictured, I bet I misunderstood the OP.

My driver's lower door handle is also in need of repair. I recently discovered the rear anchor tab is broken off. I will probably make/glue/melt a new one in it's place. (The traditional/professional method for "gluing" plastic is "welding". Basically, you melt plastic together to bond it.

For the handle pictured, I agree it's got some design "issues". I'm not even crazy about how it clips into the front edge. The only way I can get it to reliably "hold" is to bend the springs out enough that they pop under the "ledge" -- making it hard to remove. Mine don't appear to be problematic as shown in the pictures above. I will suggest the use of SEM or Duplicolor Vinyl/Plastic dye...versus the use of "paint". It goes on thinner and will resist peeling better than paint.

To make them stronger, I'd seriously consider filling the backside with bondo...or Bondo Glass. FYI, the two materials don't bond particularly well though. That doesn't mean one can't support/strengthen the other. Just be sure to sand with rough grit sandpaper before filling. I'd also consider drilling holes through the plastic support ribs to create an anchor point for the Bondo to "grab".

I used a similar technique to repair an inner door panel structure on my Corvette. So far, it's holding.

This PC7 stuff sounds worth a look. I'm not familiar with it -- but plan on reading up in the near future.

If FlexSeal is that stuff in the commercial that turned a screen door into a boat, I'd hesitate to consider it's use as a support/strengthening agent.

[VX KAT]

yeah, I think FlexSeal could only be used as a "topcoat" for grip. I've used FlexSeal to spray the bottom and bottom 1/2" of my steel water bottles (Sigg) and it works great. Even used it to seal a hole in the bottom edge of one of them after it got dropped. I sprayed on a few layers to make it a little thicker to protect the bottom/edge, as I drop them frequently ... :goof:... and it really does absorb the impact now, quite well. If dented, can use a rubber mallet to reshape the bottom.
Guess I could do the commercial for them now, but it's handy stuff!

[ipd]

I bought a pair of lizardskins chainstay protectors, velcro'd them together, cut them in half length-wise, and then wrapped them around the door handle. could be a bit snugger fit, but it works, and i don't have to worry about the plastic ripping off.