View Full Version : Drivetrain vibration
Triathlete
03/04/2016, 03:49 PM
When accelerating I am getting a severe vibration/bind in the drivetrain from 20 to 36 mph. Above that it goes away. RPMs stay smooth, shifts are smooth, no abnormal tod lights (work as they are supposed to), no strange noises other than the sound of the vibration. Front end has manuel hubs and they are unlocked. Trans mounts are tight. Thinking trans. What else is a possibility?
Mile High VX
03/04/2016, 03:52 PM
Does it happen at the same speed no matter what gear it's in, or does it happen at the same RPM if it's in different gears?
Triathlete
03/04/2016, 05:05 PM
Same speed. RPMS make no difference nor does the gear. I have shifted it down and manually shifted it and it does the same regardless of RPM. Only thing I have not done is try it in 4lo...will do that next time I take it out near some dirt.
89Vette
03/04/2016, 10:50 PM
I'd check the u-joints in the rear drive shaft.
Mile High VX
03/05/2016, 07:07 AM
Wheel balance and bearings as well.
Triathlete
03/05/2016, 12:29 PM
U joints are tight...no play. Will grease them to make sure.
Pretty sure it's not wheel bearings. It is more of a binding type vibration. All wheel weights are still in tact.
VXorado
03/05/2016, 04:45 PM
Have you tested for this vibration with the hubs locked? Could just be from the halfshafts or tcase spinning without load.
Triathlete
03/05/2016, 05:36 PM
I've been driving with the hubs unlocked for the last 8 years.
VXorado
03/05/2016, 07:01 PM
Sure but things can wear out after 8 years... like the chain in the t-case. Maybe it will even get worse with the hubs locked and help you find the issue.
89Vette
03/05/2016, 08:31 PM
Clutches can cause shutter. The equivalent in an auto is the torque converter...which is one option. i don't know how to check this. Though you probably need it on a lift and listen with a stethoscope as you run up wheel speed (off the ground).
Another idea is a motor mount. Check for engine play when you rev up in park. Or put foot on brake in drive and have someone else look at engine shifting.
On mine, the u-joints weren't so much "worn out" as binding as they rotated. You could hear them at hwy speed. you can probably rule this out.
Places like NTB and/or Certified Transmission perform diagnosis for free! :-)
Triathlete
03/07/2016, 01:26 PM
New info...
Took it out today and put it in 4lo...no vibration.
I can feel the vibration transmitting more through the tcase shifter than the trans shifter.
No vibration transmits through the steering wheel.
I think I'm going to drain the tcase and check the fluid and put new fluid in and see if that does anything.
Triathlete
03/07/2016, 01:28 PM
Thanks for all the suggestions. Will keep hunting down the problem.
simonsayz1
03/08/2016, 05:59 AM
Whoops, wrong thread
Y33TREKker
03/08/2016, 08:11 AM
Did you grease the slip joint on the drive shaft too when greasing the u-joints?
Triathlete
03/08/2016, 08:40 AM
Yep, all 3 zerks are freshly greased.
Triathlete
03/08/2016, 01:09 PM
Found my issue :)
Decided to degree the rear u joint on the rear driveshaft. After cleaning it I found metal shards (remains of the bearing retainer) twisted up in there. Even though the joint has no play in it when pulling on it, visual inspection showed otherwise.
Fortunately for me I just happen to have a genuine oem Isuzu u joint in my garage that I had ordered about 10 years ago. Now I just need to swap it out this weekend.
Triathlete
03/11/2016, 04:19 PM
Replaced the rear u joint with an isuzu oem joint. All greased up. Smooth as butter...no more binding/vibration. It also fixed another long time problem...the clunking when putting it in gear, so if that is a problem you have it may be early warning of a u joint going bad.
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