Replacing Valve Cover Gaskets

[mattferguson14]

Hey Guys! I'm getting ready to replace my valve cover gaskets this weekend. A couple of the seals above the spark plug cylinders are leaking and the plug cylinders are filling up with oil! ARGHH! Anyway, I'm looking for any tips, advice or feedback from others who have completed this task. Also, is there anything else I should be replacing, adjusting, cleaning, repairing while I'm in there?

Thanks!

[MSHardeman]

I have replaced my valve cover gaskets and I have to warn you that you will probably get VERY frustrated with the bolt at the back of the driver side valve cover. The brake booster is in the way and there isn't much room to get any kind of tool into the space between the booster and the valve cover. I ended up finding a right angle bit drive set from Kobalt that allowed me to get to that last bolt under the booster. Here is the set: http://www.lowes.com/pd_338358-22328-85165___?Ntt=kobalt+35+piece+right+angle+bit+drive&UserSearch=kobalt+35+piece+right+angle+bit+drive&productId=3387640 Luckily the valve cover bolts don't take much torque to hold them down so it was, relatively, easy to use the small right angle bit drive to get it out (and back in).

You will need to add a bead of silicone to the corners of the overhead cam mounting brackets at the front and back of the engine to help seal the valve cover and gasket to the head. Also, be careful when you put the drive side cover back on. There isn't much space to move it around at the back of the engine due to the brake booster. I ended up twisting the gasket when I put mine back in the first time and when I started driving the VX a bunch of oil spilled out of the valve cover, where the gasket was twisted, and landed on the hot exhaust headers causing a massive amount of smoke to come pouring out from under my hood. Scared the bejeebus out of me because I thought the VX was on fire. Luckily it wasn't, but it took more time to get back into the valve cover, get it off, untwist the gasket and then put it all back together.

Not a difficult task to do so just take your time, label anything that you remove (so you know where it goes when you put it back together) and have fun.

[Triathlete]

Just an fyi...the brake booster is pretty easy to remove if it will make getting that back bolt out.

[Mile High VX]

The hex size is 5 mm...and be careful when you undo the clips for the wire holders too.

[mattferguson14]

I was warned about that pesky bolt near the brake booster. I was told you can actually cut down a 5mm hex socket and get at it with a ratchet. I will be removing that bolt FIRST just to get it out of the way. Worst case scenario I will remove the booster. That is probably what a "real" mechanic shop would do.

[Mile High VX]

If you have a 1/4" drive, lots of extensions, and a toggle it can be easier...lol

[Y33TREKker]

...I ended up finding a right angle bit drive set from Kobalt that allowed me to get to that last bolt under the booster. Here is the set: http://www.lowes.com/pd_338358-22328-85165___?Ntt=kobalt+35+piece+right+angle+bit+drive&UserSearch=kobalt+35+piece+right+angle+bit+drive&productId=3387640
That looks like a very handy tool set to have around regardless of the project.

[MSHardeman]

It IS super handy. I bought it to help with getting the valve covers off, and back on, but I've used it for a hundred other little jobs around the VX and the house.

[mattferguson14]

Well, I got the job done last Saturday. It was a pain, took me 5 hours or so (including scraping/sanding, and painting the valve covers) in 100+ degree weather here in AZ. I had to scrape a ton of gasket maker silicone off of the heads and valve covers. Some “genius” who did this job in the past put silicone on everything! I just put a couple beads of the super black silicone in the recommended areas where the “cam-humps” meet the flat surface of the heads.

I wound up detaching the brake booster. I didn’t have to completely remove it, I was able to get an extension behind the brake booster with it detached to get to that rear lower bolt. I borrowed a torque wrench from Autozone to torque the bolts to the recommended 80 inch lbs, but there was no way in heck to get that bulky torque wrench into some of the tight areas under the hood. I had to become a contortionist just to get to a few of the bolts. I just tightened to what I thought felt like 80 inch lbs. lol

Another thing to keep in mind, you may actually want to us a ¼ drive setup with a 1/4 in. socket and extension, along with a 5mm bit. There are a couple spots (i.e. the upper bolt closest to the firewall on the passenger side) where the girth of the 3/8 drive setup is too thick due to lack of clearance. The ¼ drive setup saved my butt in a couple spots. Also, you definitely want a swivel attachment.

I replaced my PCV while I was at it. Need to get a new grommet though as the old one is a bit dry rotted.

Thanks for the tips and info!

[Mile High VX]

Glad all worked out well for you!

That tool that was mentioned is great to getting to those inside bolts on the rear cladding that hide behind the fender cladding...worth the price for sure.