Enkei ST6 wheels

[XtonVX]

I need to replace my tires and want to go wider (255/60-18 now). My preferred size is 285/60-18. My 2001 is not lifted and I do not want to lift it. I'm ok with some minor trimming of the front cladding. In addition I also am considering new wheels. There are a lot of wheel choices out there but most are not to my liking. I have my eye on the Enkei ST6 wheels (20 mm offset, 18x8.5, 108mm center bore). This will give about the same back spacing as the OEM wheel. Has anyone out there seen or bought this wheel? I haven't been able to find any pictures of any VX with these. The older RT6 model, yes, but not the ST6. If anyone has some pictures, I'd love to see them. Any other input would be appreciated.

[Y33TREKker]

Is the offset and width on the ST6 the same as the RT6's you've seen? If so, I don't know why they wouldn't work like the RT's.

I think Wormgod has had the RT6's for quite awhile now?

Best bet would be to find the wheel/tire thread and look for setups with similar offsets, widths, and tire sizes to see what has worked before and what was required to make it work.

[XtonVX]

I believe the RT6's (at least the ones Wormgod has) are 0 offset. The ST6's I would get are 20 mm offset. That would reduce the amount the the wheels stick out by 20 mm (0.8"). That should also require slightly less trimming of the front cladding. My one concern is whether or not the 108 mm center bore goes completely through the rim or not. I have read a thread here where someone purchased a set of wheels that weren't bored deep enough (not all the way through) and didn't learn this until they tried to mount them.

[WormGod]

Yep, RT6 is a 0 offset. And with 285/60, you will trim a considerable amount. To avoid it, the 20mm will tuck it within a minimal trim pocket.

IIRC, my centerbore (18x8.5) is 108. The debate whether we are actually 100 or 108 is up for others while I just sit and back accept my happiness with what I have, heh. You should be fine as long as you don't stray too far from that range (under 100 probably not so good, higher, consider hubcentric rings).

[Y33TREKker]

The 20mm offest you mentioned. Is that +20 or -20?

[XtonVX]

That's +20 mm, 18 mm less than the stock +38 mm wheels. This will result in roughly the same back spacing (50% of the additional 1.5" in wheel width (8.5"-7.0") or .75", almost equals the 18 mm (.71") outward shift).

[XtonVX]

Gary, did you have to do any trimming other than the front cladding with your RT6's? Also, can you confirm that your VX is not lifted? Thanks.

[WormGod]

Not lifted, and yes, a sawzall was most useful for the inside of the rear of the front wells. Front cladding was mostly just a shave. I tried many setups but this stance was the one I was most pleased with. There is a payoff for the look you are going for.

[broadkast]

Hey XtonVX,
I'm in the same boat as you. My search for decent wheels has left me with few real choices.
Did you ever try the ST6 and if not, what did you end up doing?

I like the look of the Enkei wheels and would be happy with RT6's if the ST6 won't work. Unfortunately they're only available with a +0 offset. I'm going for a look similar to WormGod's, and I don't want to lift. My VX has low miles, and I plan to keep it for a while.

The ST6 is actually my first choice, but nowhere does it say that ANY current Enkei SUV wheel will fit the VX.
The searching I have done has told be this so far:
The current Enkei offering differs from the older (RT6) models in that the center bore is not machined through at 108.5mm but rather it narrows at some point to allow a smaller, plastic center cap to snap in.
While this provides a more appealing look, it prevents the wheel from fitting on the VX front hubs because the hub bottoms out in the bore before the mounting plate can contact the hub surface.
How much space is left, I don't know, but the problem as I see it, only exists on the front. The rear is OK.

The way I see it, I have three choices:
1. Settle for a the RT6 or different brand of wheel.
2. Use a hub spacer between the wheel and the hub to gain the required clearance inside the bore. This would require using a wheel with lower offset (the lowest available is a +10) to restore the wheel to the desired position in the well.
Because of the limited offset choices, the spacer would need no be about 10mm or so.
3. Turn the wheels on a lathe or similar device and machine the wheels to remove the offending material.
Assuming a bore-through would be required, this has several problems right off the bat.
a. Getting access to the proper machinery or a shop willing to do the work at a reasonable cost. I actually have a
lathe, but it's not big enough to handle 18" wheels.
b. The machining process would compromise the clearcoat, if one exists, and could cause it to peel prematurely.
c. The center cap would no longer fit, and I'd have to find an older style pass-through cap and hope it looks good.

I'm not too concerned about removing the material in option 3, since the majority of the bore is already at 108.5. I wouldn't be removing any structural material, and the bolt holes would be no weaker than the bolt holes in an RT6, for example. Also, since the VX wheels are not hub-centric, the center bore plays no role in wheel centering.
The possibility does exist that a bore-through would not be required, only a bore "deepening" but I don't see this as being very likely.

My questions are:
Has anyone tried an ST6 and how much space is left between the mounting plate and the bolt surface when the hub bottoms out inside the bore?
Has anyone made this work and how did you do it?

I'm almost tempted to order one wheel at a +10 offset and try it myself. On the other hand, if I find out it's a waste of time, I'll try to get a set of RT6's.

BK

[ipd]

I don't know that I'd run 285/60r18's without a lift. I have 265/60r18's and i had to trim. I believe these are +12s.

[broadkast]

Hi all,
I was able to fit a set of Enkei ST6's on my VX with no lift and only minor modifications.
Brief details:
Wheel: Enkei ST6 Silver Machined (18x8.5) +20 offset (6x139.7) 108mm center bore. Part Number 470-885-8420SM. Includes center cap, which fits.
Tire: Bridgestone Blizzak DM-V2 275/60 R18 (31" OD)
Outer edge of tire protrudes about 1 inch beyond cladding.
Mods required: 1/4 inch wheel spacer, grinding of hub bolts (have replacements to return to stock if desired), minor cladding trim in front wheel wells.
I know there aren't as many folks left in this forum, but if anyone is interested I can post more details with pics of the process.
Also, I'm considering having my stock 18's re-chromed - but if someone says they're interested in them, I'd let them go for cheap.
Cheers,
BK

2060

[WormGod]

Seems like an equivalent worth of work compared to RT6 0-offset/285/60 setup. Rock on!