Project VXOverLand

[Thelgord]

I went to my local pull-a-part today because the inventory showed a 2000 trooper on the lot. Yeah ... that wasn’t exactly true ... no trooper.

So, based on a suggestion from FB I pulled a new motor from a Nissan. In fairness, the poster never mentioned what type of Nissan. I didn’t get there until I got off work (4:30pm) and drove across town so it was almost 5pm. They close at 5:30.

I did a quick google search and found something called a Tsuru that used the same window lift motor. Knowing this is not an American vehicle I had heard of, I search for Tsuru in America. All of the links on the first google results page said Nissan Sentra. I checked the inventory again and realized I had about 15 minutes before they closed the doors.

I found one stripped the drivers door and started to disassemble the window regulator. I got it loose enough to the get the motor out of the door. It was about the right size, but I didn’t want to strip the brass screws holding it to the regulator so I just cut the regulator cable and hurried to the counter with less than 5 minutes to spare. $20 later, I had my part.

After I got home I worked very carefully to preserve the mounting screws as they are the same as the VX, and mine have been removed and put back on enough times to be ... well ... less than ideal. After getting the last screw off, it popped free, and my heart sank. The new motor had the square peg instead of the three pronged attachment the VX needs. As it turns out, it was also flipped so I would have need to put it on the passenger door, and the mounting holes didn’t quite line up.

Damn it.

After checking with RockAuto, I actually found one cheaper on amazon when you factor shipping. I know RockAuto offers a core charge to get $25 back, but when I ordered the two motors that are in my VX now, I sent the OEM ones in for core replacement and never got my core charge back. After many weeks of frustrations and many emails they claim they never received it. They are ... somewhere ... but I have no idea where. For now anyway, I cant trust RockAuto to honor the core charge policy. Which is fine, as they still offer great prices on other items, and I still do business with them. I just don’t worry about any core charges anymore.

Well, that was more of a rant than I intended.

Anyway, I now have a reman on order from Amazon and, with luck, it should be here Thursday or Friday with expedited shipping. In the meantime, Georgia is in it’s rainy season, and I need to be able to roll the window down when I pass through the security gate at work, then roll it up when I park it, so I will be using the wife’s car for a couple of days.

Owning a VX is so much fun! LOL!

On the plus side, I do go to my local pull-a-part quite often, so i can return the window motor for credit towards my next purchase. :)

[ipd]

I'd just crack the door and hand my ID through it.

I have the SBC brackets installed. Seems to be holding the passenger side mostly in place. Driver's side is tiling forward. If i pinch the window and tug backwards it works fine though. I don't have enough expertise to make a perm fix though--since the SBC brackets aren't working.

[Thelgord]

Went for a short trip yesterday, got me home with no issues. I was going to drive it work that same morning. Backed out of the driveway and got a metal on metal squeal from the front end. Not sure what side. I took the wife’s car to work instead. Today after work I took another look at it. At first I thought it may be a break caliper sticking. Still not sure what side. I will have to lift the front end and remove wheels to do more diagnostic measures.

1) It seems to be worse when turning.
2) It is not smooth, more of a pulse that changes proportionally with speed.
3) Applying the breaks seems to do nothing to change it.

So, I either have a completely frozen caliper. Possible as I had to unstick the front passenger side when I purchased the VX. Or, I may have a bad wheel bearing. Damn it.... This VX is going to be the death of me yet.

Anyway, I wont be able to start pulling stuff apart until this weekend. Fingers crossed it will be an easy fix, but nothing on this VX has ever been easy.

The plan: Jack up and pull one wheel at a time. Rotate the hub to see which one (or multiple) are dragging/grinding. Remove the break caliper of the offending wheel. Rotate the hub again to see if it still grinds. If it does, I need a wheel bearing.

I may have been mistaken in purchasing this particular VX... just a thought ...

[ipd]

Hey...I wasn't gonna say it. Every used car may have gremlins.

On the bright side, you may be "over the hump" when it comes to issues. Hard to say for certain though. I wonder if the previous owners neglected their kids/pets/relationships as badly as they neglected their cars.

[Thelgord]

No worries. I am still going to press forward. Just gets very frustrating to keep fixing one thing after another. Part of the reason I haven’t done any real serious off-road with it yet because I just don’t trust the VX not brake catastrophically. For now anyway. I am sure it will get there, and there have been times I thought I was over the hump on this one. It’s just not today it seems. I was looking a diamond in the rough, but it keeps dragging me back to the forge.

[ipd]

I hear you. I still have to go back and re-center my steering wheel, and then get the OBD code diagnosed. With the limited number of people in the VX community, the limited number of those who have actually done a JDM steering-wheel swap (not to mention the lack of people on this forum), it's quite literally a pick-up game trying to figure any of this out.

It would be great if someone knew if this was a normal thing, or if I had a bad clockspring. Oh well. Uncharted territory here we all go.

[Thelgord]

Some would say it’s all part of the fun ;) I think owning a VX is a disease, or at least an addiction. **scratches arm** hey man, got any of dose jdm parts ... LOL!

[Thelgord]

So, my caliper was seized up. Had to use a large hammer to get the guide pins out. On the way to auto zone to get a new one. Web sites says it’s in stock.

[Thelgord]

I decided to go ahead and change out both of the front calipers, and new brake pads. The passenger side pads were toast, which were new as of September of last year. Fortunately I didn’t warp my rotor. While drivers side pads looks mostly ok, I upgraded the brake pads from the cheap ones I initially purchased just to the VX running again to ceramic pads. The drive is noticeably better as is stopping.

When I got the VX last year, I just needed to get it drivable, mostly. The passenger side caliper was seized and I broke it free thinking I could save it. I did, sort of, kind of, maybe ... It did (almost) last a year before I died again. While the driver side caliper seemed fine I decided to change it out anyway. It’s really not a hard job, just takes a bit of time.

Personally I am glad it was the brake caliper on the wheel bearings. I really didn’t want to dig into all of that on my one rare day off (I have been working a lot lately as well as taking collage classes). I am just glad I can drive my VX again, and I can give the wife her car back.

With that problem sorted, I can get back to working on installing upgrades. :D

[ipd]

I refuse to use anything but ceramic pads these days. Doesn't matter if it's the VX or anything else. TOo bad I don't see a "thumbs up" button on the new forum.

[Thelgord]

There is a new forum?

[ipd]

I mean the new format here. It's one of several things I'm not keen on.

[Thelgord]

I haven’t noticed any changes, then again I am on mobile devices most of the time.

[ipd]

It definitely feels like this site is now100% made for mobile devices. It has that Windows 8.0" feel to it.

[Thelgord]

Hahahaha!

[Thelgord]

Super busy day today!

I started the day by realizing that I had managed to lose the lug nut “key” for my VX. I went to pull-a-part and just got 4 more regular lug nuts and will have the my local tire shop remove the keyed lugs. As it turns out, I went all the way to Charlotte, NC without it. Glad the VX did well. :)

While at Pull-A-Part, I managed to get the bolts I needed for my Trooper Tire Carrier so I can mount a full size spare. I still don’t have a fifth wheel to actually mount yet, but the parts are coming together.

I also got a brush gaurd for $40! YAY!!!!!

The brush gaurd has a substantial amount of surface rust, but nothing really penetrating. This will require a more than little clean up. I also need to find a way to restore the rubber “bumper” strips that face forward. All in good time. :D It came from a 1995 Ford Explorer. There was a perfect condition chrome one on another explorer, but someone was already on that one. Not really sure I would have wanted the chrome one anyway as I don’t really like the whole “bling” look.

After a really quick test fit, which mostly consisted of me holding the brush gaurd up to the VX, the angles are a perfect fit! However, there is ALWAYS a “however”, the mounts to the frame are far to narrow, and it would make the gaurd sit far too low. Damn it ...

But wait! There’s more!

As it turns out, I can mount the brush gaurd mounting plates to the base of the winch plate and get a perfect fit. Not exactly an ideal location, but the entire winch mount is made from steel plate, square tube, and C-Channel that are all 1/4” thick. I am sure it can handle the additional 40 or so pounds of the gaurd considering I saved almost that much when I switched from steel cable to synthetic line on the winch. There is more welding in my future. :coolgray:

Who knows, I may use this as a base to build out an entire bumper. :D That could work well I think :)

[ipd]

Good luck!

I'm set on having more of a rock bumper than a brush guard...but since no one ever made one for the VX, no one sells them, and I don't have fabrication skills...OEM is how I have to roll.

[Thelgord]

Talk to Joe Birch, don’t know his handle here. He found a way to use a Toyota bumper, but it did take a little welding.

[ipd]

Jo (jophotoz) is the guy who found my VX and helped me get it. I love his mods. That said, I was hoping for something to flow more with stock lines. Like this one, which has a more "curved" appearance than a lot of the angular, beefy styles that are on the market today.

https://www.stage3motorsports.com/441515-91-03-2015-F150-Rogue-Racing-Rebel-Front-Off-Road-Bumper.html

[Thelgord]

That actually wouldn’t be hard to fab, provided you had a tube bender and some practice. There is also a specialized tool to make those holes recessed. To do it DIY it would cost you more than to pay someone else just in getting the tools needed.

But once you have them, you have them ;)

[ipd]

I was thinking more like Hex-grill on the sides, to match the VX theme. But yes. Too bad Middle GA has zero places that do custom bumpers. I'm pretty sure UT had a bunch.

[Thelgord]

Utah has more “fabricators” than it can handle really. Seems like everyone is trying to cash in on it. But yes, there is really nothing available in most of Georgia. So glad I taught myself how to weld. I would love to buy a tube bender to really create some cool projects, but getting one past the wife’s budget ... meh ... not so easy ;) On the flipside she keeps my credit score good :)

[ipd]

Well if you ever find a decent shop, keep us informed. I'm still hunting an upholstery shop.

[Thelgord]

There is one in Augusta, Uber expensive. They mostly restore classic cars for the pebble beach cars. Nothing so far for just a hot rod guy damn it.

[Thelgord]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rsca4tdsw6prddl/Photo%20Sep%2001%2C%2018%2013%2042.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vlxoc6dt3vbqntg/Photo%20Sep%2001%2C%2018%2030%2025.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2mfry32z0j970uk/Photo%20Sep%2001%2C%2018%2013%2033.jpg?raw=1

Got my brush guard on today!!! Yay!

[ipd]

Not bad! Looks like you have the same weatherstripping-poking-out-the-door issue I have. Still haven't figured that 1 out.

The cladding could use some love though. A good temp fix is Mother's Back-to-Black. I use it myself, and the difference is quite drastic. A good wash and some treatment and it will just pop.

p.s.
I don't remember the diameter of the center caps on the stockers. It might be cook to put some decals over the "Isuzu". I did that with the center caps on my Volks. Small pic, but that's an Autobots logo. Same on all 4.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/inperfectdarkness/PICT1054_zpsl9h2hrha.jpg~original

[Thelgord]

The wether stripping has been doing that since I got it. Should probably, one day, maybe, replace it. ;)

I am going to be painting the cladding when I start the body work. For now I am not really concerned with it.

I have of Toyota rims that I may be swapping out for. Higher offset to push the wheels out more. They are steel wheels and have some surface rust, I need to clean those and paint them up before I decide if I am going to switch them out.

[Thelgord]

In the morning I will be starting my trailer light plug install. I have a seven wire plug that also has a four wire plug attached to it. I got it at Home Depot in the clearance rack for something like $10, but that’s whatever. The part that was confusing me was the VX “5 wire” system.

After searching the site, I found this thread: http://www.vehicross.info/showthread.php/27423-Proper-Electrics-for-a-trailer

This is awesome, mostly because it tells me what color wires to look for. From the thread:


RT Turn Signal Wire Color (only avail on the Passenger Side): Green/Blue
LF Turn Signal Wire Color (only avail on Driver's Side): Green/Blue
Parking/Running Light Wire Color: Green/Red
Brake Light Wire Color: Green


Basically I need to get the turn signal and brake light onto the same wire without allowing feedback to mess everything up. Yes, there are converter boxes, and they are cheap as all get out (I think like $11 or $12 on amazon). However, I already have a solution that is a holdover from my Toyota Tacoma bed lighting project. Diodes!!!

Yup, I already had this issue when trying wire 22 LED light strips in the bed of my Tacoma and I needed a way to control them. I used a 2 inch long piece of 1/2 inch PVC pipe, some wire, and two high-capacity diodes. I ended up making two of these. It has two inputs, and one put, and keeps the two inputs isolated from each other. Basically it was way to turn on lights on only one side of the bed or the other, or to turn them all on. It was a really simple solution that worked well.

Since I kept all of that wiring, lights, switches, and what not, I still have these two pieces I made, and after testing, they still work. I just need to wire them to the plug and I am in business! I can start wiring up the rest of the plug.

Yes, I intend to hook up all of the wires, including the brake controller, backup lights, and AUX power wires. Though the brake controller and AUX power may wait for a bit. The rest is getting hooked up in the morning for sure, and as long as it doesn’t get scorching hot again tomorrow, I will run the wiring for the power and brake controller.

I needed to put a rush on this as I will be borrowing a neighbors utility trailer to haul off the scrap from a fence I am taking down later this week, but that’s a whole other thing.

[Thelgord]

Not exactly sure what happened, but it was very hot the other day, and I was tired of working on the VX.

First, my diode idea, while it did work, wasn’t an ideal solution. It was fun, but I scrapped it and just got a converter box from my local tractor supply. Much more rugged than anything I made and it was only $15.

Then I get everything wired up, no issues. I zip tie all of the wires behind cladding and what not, got the plug mounted, every looked good. I decided to test the plug again. Damn it.

I must have done something wonky either while wiring, or while zip tying everything down, or both. Only the right turn signal and brake light seem to be working. I was too tired to take it all apart again. I may try again this weekend. Maybe sooner. Maybe not. But I will need to sort that out, damn it.

[Thelgord]

No work on the VX recently. But I did get around to checking on the 4wd and fog light switches. I got the pinouts mapped easily enough. Both the back light bulbs are blown, as are several on my dash. I found a site that had them by the 10 pack for around $12 so I ordered one. The interesting things is the 4wd switch I got from an axiom. It is a Normally Open switch. You press the button “in” to shut it off. Weird, but I can work with that. I plan on getting more of these switches as they become available at my local pull-a-part yard now that I know the bulbs can be changed out. I think I will experiment with one of the switches to figure out how to change the fog light icon. Maybe some sanding and a printed sticker with a clear background? Maybe sand all of the black off and try to stencil my own? Not sure yet. But it should be a fun project. I would love to get one of those laser etching things, but they are crazy expensive. Before all that though I need to figure out how to pull the switch cover off without breaking it. Then I will have a good idea of what I am working with. Who knows, maybe there is a market for OEM looking switches that say things like “LED light bar”?

[MSHardeman]

VXorado found some "custom" switches and it sounded like you could have them print just about anything you wanted on them. They do not match our factory switches, but might be an option.

You can see them in his build thread on page 6 about half way down:

http://www.vehicross.info/showthread.php/23435-RADO-s-Off-Road-Rig-Build-Thread/page6?highlight=vxorado+switches

[Thelgord]

Thanks for the link! I’ll look into it :)

[Thelgord]

So, I lost the “key” to my lock lug nut. Damn it. After spending several days looking for it, nothing. I called a few tire shops, even a couple of dealerships, and they all said the same thing. They were going to have to “break it off”, which would destroy the stud (no big deal there as they are easy to change), but they also said there was a better than even change of destroying the rim in the process. I looked for one of those counter thread bolt extractors and couldn’t find one the right size. After a week of scratching my head over this, I finally found an option that had good reviews online. Hammer a slightly to small socket on to the smooth lock lug and then twist off. All I did was break a socket, dang it.

I did finally get them off, and replaced with matching lug nuts from another isuzu. I ended up welding a nut on the end of the lock lug and they came right off. Took about 10 minutes per wheel. Now I no longer have any locking lug nuts, but I can at least take the wheel off if get a flat tire or need to work on something.

[MSHardeman]

Glad you got it taken care of, but I have had this problem before (lost my lock nut key) and my local tire shop had a way of getting the lock nut off without destroying the rim or the stud. They had a bit that, basically, clamped down on the lock lug and just backed it off. It did destroy the lock nut, but that's an easy replacement.

I have a set of stock chrome rims and bought a set of black lug nuts and lug keys from McGard ( https://shop.mcgard.com/products/automotive/lug-nuts-lug-bolts/cone-seat ). The black looks pretty schnazzy against the chrome rims. I still have a set of lug nuts in the package so I can find the exact model number that fits our VX's if you would like.

[Thelgord]

Would be appreciated :)

[MSHardeman]

Didn't see this earlier, but the McGard site has an application finder. Typed our info in and found this: http://www.mcgard.com/product-search/?vehicle_year=2001&vehicle_make=Isuzu&vehicle_model=VehiCROSS&vehicle_category=24
There are a few styles to choose from, but the ones that I bought were part no. 64015 (black bulge cone seat style lug nut set). For the wheel locks I got part no. 24026 (black cone seat wheel lock set with key). I have had these lug nuts and wheel locks on for I can't remember how long (8-years?) and I have been out to Moab with them for at least 6-years so I know they work.

Whichever way you go, if you are using stock rims, you will need cone seat lug nuts/ wheel locks with M12 x 1.5 thread size.

Enjoy!

[Thelgord]

I have been transitioning to noght shift over the last week or so. On Monday I am on nights full time, but only for two weeks then back to day shift. What a PITA.

Anywho, thanks for all the info on the lug nuts! For now I am not running any locking lug, but it is something I will need to buy.

What I did get done was change out both of my blown rear speakers. Nothing fancy, just some 40W speakers from Walmart. This is fine as my little Chinese head unit maxes out at only 25 watts anyway. The real kicker though? The previous owner cut about 3 inches out of the bottom of the metal plate the speaker mounts in on the drivers side. No idea why. There was also a lot of plastic cone shaped things that were obviously cut up by hand just laying behind the panel, and two dried out walnuts. Weird.

[ipd]

I hope the wal-trash speakers last more than 5 years. It's not a function of RMS vs the head unit. It's a function of build materials and a resistance to decay/dry-rot over time. That's why those clarion OEM speakers are crap. Paper cones and foam surrounds will rapidly deteriorate. That's why I went with the Pioneer's.

[Thelgord]

Completely agree. Then again I don’t know this VX has 5 years of life left. I am trying to keep the mechanical part good, no skimping there, so the budget needs shaved elsewhere.

I did, finally, get my switch bezel installed in the lower dash and double USB ports. I put one at each far end and tapped them from the cigarette lighter plug. The only I use it for is to power my satellite radio receiver, only 1.1 amps, the lighter has its own 15 amp fuse so I should be good. I wanted two sets, one on each side, to make it easier for the driver and passenger to access them. I still need to get a switch for my light bar and other items.

[Thelgord]

More updates!

I finally got around to doing the shift shaft seal. What a PITA! Took 2 days and a little blood, but I got it done. I also cleaned out the shift mode controller as it had transmission fluid leaking into it. Shifts are now smooth as butter! It has never driven so well.

The old seal wasn’t even a seal. It was a large glob of gasket maker. Spent a whole day trying to remove a seal that wasn’t there to begin with. I even purchased the seal remover tool and everything. So far no leaks! I hope it stays that way. IF this holds up I can go to Moab for 2019, the 20th anniversary of my VX!

[MSHardeman]

Thought I had a picture of it (can't find it now), but if I remember correctly the mode controller has an orange rubber gasket/ o-ring (for lack of a better term) that seals the two halves together. Sounds like someone split your mode controller apart already and used gasket maker to replace the original rubber gasket. If you were removing orange globs of gasket maker, maybe it was the old gasket that had been eaten away by the transmission fluid leaking on it.

Either way, glad that you got it fixed that the VX is shifting well.

[Thelgord]

Finally got around changing my Diff fluid, front and rear. Honestly the easiest thing the VX has let me do to her. I used Mobile 1 that already the limited slip additive in it. Not bad, around $90 for 4 bottles. I put just over 3 1/2 bottles in, got just under 3 bottles of old fluid out of the VX. I was surprised when I open the fill plug for the diff and nothing came out. I stuck my punky in the hole and never did find out how the fluid was. After removing the drain plug for the front diff, I got a nice steady stream of fluid, but it didn't last long. I am not sure how low it was, but it was definitely low. Fluid from both differentials looked like thin brown gravy. I know this should have been one of the first things I did with the VX, but it's done now. One more item checked off the list.

[Thelgord]

Installed a new Throttle Position Sensor, my second new one.

Going through my work log I changed it out initially on 14 Oct 2017. That one was one I pulled from a Trooper at Pull-A-Part.

My next one was a new part I installed on 15 June 2018. I purchased that one from Advanced Auto Parts. (I think that is where I got it, but I do remember I got it locally).

Yesterday, on 09 November 2018 I installed my second new one. This one I got from from Rock Auto dot com and it seems to have good reviews on the site, if that is worth anything. The body is a bit different than the one I got from Advanced Auto Parts (logo on one side and seems to be a bit thicker plastic), but it seems to be working great so far.

Counting the TPS that came with the VX I am now on my 4th TPS since I purchased it. Right around 17 months and 4 Throttle Position Sensors. I am really hoping this one holds up.

[Thelgord]

Installed yet another TPS after the engine went all kinds of wonkey on me, again. That didn’t fix it so now I have a spare TPS. The down side is my engine is running rough as all get out and I got p0300 code, random multiple misfires. Ran seafoam through the motor. Didn’t fix it. Though about the coil packs so I cleaned each and reinstalled them. No change. Someone on the FB page suggested lower intake gasket. It does seem likely at this point as the idea of multiple coil packs going bad at the same time just seems unlikely. Damnit. I did the damn intake gasket 3 times already! Arrrrrrg!

Ok rant over. I will try to get it next weekend. In the meantime I will be using the wife’s car. Damn it ...

[Thelgord]

Update! Got the lower intake replaced. Driver side rear cylinder location had a break in it. Re-assembled and ... no change. Based on a suggestion from the FB page I unplugged my MAF. Idled high, as expected, but smooth! After a few minutes it came back down it's normal idle. I cleaned the MAF with carb cleaner, and that worked for about 10 minutes. Then it went back to running wonky and weird misfires. I unplugged the MAF again and it sorted itself out. I am going to go get some MAF cleaner in the morning, and if that doesn't work, I will be dropping a bit over $100 on a MAF. I really hop I can just clean the damn thing.

[Thelgord]

Got the new MAF installed. It is great again! So happy to have my baby running again. It actually died following a fill up, literally at the pump when I tried to leave. The odometer showed 13.1 miles from there to my driveway. It sucked down a 1/4 tank on that drive. Hopefully the new one lasts longer than the last new one, which was installed on 23 September of 2017. So roughly 14 months.

Seems like every time I get it running great and I think I can start on other projects for the VX something else breaks. I planned on being a lot farther along with this build by now.

[Thelgord]

Well, the VX just wouldn’t let me finish out the year without an issue. Got the high idle back, yet again, and this time it was the TPS.

Happy New Year! Smh...

[Thelgord]

Just to clear up what could be confusing after looking through my build log.

On 09 November 2018 I replaced my TPS with a second new one. This did NOT fix my issue so I kept my "first new purchase" TPS in a box.

On 31 December 2018 I replaced my TPS again. I put my "first new purchase" TPS back in the VX. My "second new TPS" went bad after less than two months. The TPS I put back into the VX was originally purchased and installed on 15 JUNE 2018.

I have done so much work, and repeated so much work on this VX, it is getting hard to keep it all sorted, which is really the purpose of this thread. For my own sanity really.

Looking at my build/repair log, it would appear that July of 2018 was the only month nothing went wrong with the VX. Hooray! Sort of. I really want to do longer trips with it, but I just can't seem to make it reliable enough. I really don't trust that it won't break at the worst possible time, when I am the most remote, making recovering it that much harder. I really don't trust this VX, not yet anyway.

Still not sure what to do about the repeated failures of MAF and TPS sensors. Pull the entire wiring harness and rebuild/replace it? That may help, it may not. Probably won't hurt it any, but I really am getting tired of doing extra work on this thing for no reason. Perhaps when the weather warms up I can take a few days off work and start pulling wiring harnesses one at a time and check them out for cracks, damage, bad connectors, that sort of thing. Tedious work to say the least.

[Thelgord]

Got a relay and switch installed for off-road lights. I was going to use an 21” LED bar I had from my previous Tacoma, but the bar is too small. Guess I’m getting 6 of 8 inch round lights at some point.

[Thelgord]

On the way home today, high idle issue returned. By the time I got home it had settled back down. I think it may be an issue with the throttle cable. At the last stop sign before my driveway, the engine was still pulling hard, but I put my foot under the gas peddle and lifted it. When I got to my driveway the high idle was gone. Yay! I love mysteries! Damn it ...

[Thelgord]

Removed

[Thelgord]

Painted my cladding today. The VX looks sooooo much better.

Getting started:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ea33h8ofa7tko7t/Photo%20Jan%2019%2C%2011%2053%2051%20AM.jpg?raw=1

Making Progress:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fg9sdaz4qbqink6/Photo%20Jan%2019%2C%201%2010%2003%20PM.jpg?raw=1


All done!
https://www.dropbox.com/s/z7x14whjbvpn9fx/Photo%20Jan%2019%2C%203%2026%2027%20PM.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fqc414yzkrsuthv/Photo%20Jan%2019%2C%203%2026%2034%20PM.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3pagpp59vf3w1ax/Photo%20Jan%2019%2C%203%2026%2044%20PM.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/bpixfvo2hj624qx/Photo%20Jan%2019%2C%203%2026%2017%20PM.jpg?raw=1

I used Krylon Fusion - Black Satin paint. Only $4 / can, and only used three cans. :)

[ipd]

Nice work! Looks nice. Are you going to "murder out" the rest of it? I think it can definitely use some black wheels...when your wallet recovers from the repairs.

[Mile High VX]

Does the Fusion have any UV inhibitor? If not, you may want to add a clear coat that does. The UV in GA will certainly limit the amount of time you have before need to do it again. I did my Dragon in Denver and should have done that. It didn't last as long as I would have liked...only about a year.

[Thelgord]

Does the Fusion have any UV inhibitor? If not, you may want to add a clear coat that does. The UV in GA will certainly limit the amount of time you have before need to do it again. I did my Dragon in Denver and should have done that. It didn't last as long as I would have liked...only about a year.

Looked at the can it doesn’t specifically say anti-UV, but it does say out door use, so ... maybe?


Nice work! Looks nice. Are you going to "murder out" the rest of it? I think it can definitely use some black wheels...when your wallet recovers from the repairs.

“Murder Out” LOL! I have never heard that term, but I like it! LOL! Actually not a terrible idea though ... hmmmm ...

The paint is honestly in terrible shape. Clear coat is completely gone in large spots. Whoever debadged it really messed it up. The roof is in horrible shape, but still no metal exposed so no rust, yet. I am trying to decide what color to paint the rest of it. The paint is far enough gone that even a rattle can paint job would be an improvement, but I will consider this “Murder Out” idea ;)

[ipd]

"outdoor use" only means "don't use in enclosed spaces, or the vapors will get you high".

If you're going to rattle-can the rest of the exterior, I'd suggest using a few layers of silver/reflective basecoat--so whatever you paint over it will "pop" more. If it were me, I'd rattle can a layer of glow-in-the-dark paint over end color--with a couple layers of clear-coat on top. That way, when the sun sets, the VX will "glow".

[Thelgord]

I have been looking at a number of options. It had some really terrible faux-carbon fiber vinyl wrap on it when I got it. It had been on way too long and it kind of turned me off of doing it again at first because it was such a PITA to remove. It took several days. However I am now considering going that route. I also looked at Plasti-Dip, but probably wont go that route. I finally got to see a car done with it and the texture is just ... wrong. A real paint job would cost about what the entire VX is worth so that probably wont happen. I am still looking at options, but trying to keep it as budget friendly as possible.

Edit: Of course if I did the “Murder Out” (still like that term), I could just clear coat over flat black primer ... hmmmm

[ipd]

Plasti-dip--if done right--can look great. But it will detail imperfections in the substrate material. I have a friend who did his whole bmw wagon in clear over dark blue paint. Looks great. But it did take quite a bit of experimenting to get it right.

[Thelgord]

Update on the cladding paint: Success! The paint has held up to below freezing temps, LOTS of rain, bird poop. and even some dipped fuel from the gas station. Granted it's' only been a couple of weeks since I did this, but so far so good. Even the front cladding is holding up. With as many issues as I was having I wasn't expecting this part to go as well as it haas. This gives me more confidence to paint the rest of the VX.

[Thelgord]

Another update:

So far the paint is exceeding expectations. It even survived a trip through a car wash. The real test will be scratched from brush and the summer heat. I am confident that it will hold up, but of course I will still keep an eye it.

I completed my rear seat delete today by removing the rear seatbelts. They are actually is very good shape. I wonder if I can use them to replace the front ones since they have gotten weak over time? Probably not, but I will look into it.

While I was in there, I discovered that the speaker mount is actually a thin metal bracket that just screws to the inside of the body. This is actually a good thing! I am thinking I will start working on a small speaker box to replace the metal mount to try to improve the sound of the rear speakers. Maybe. It’s not a high priority issue so it may or not happen anytime soon, but something worth keeping an eye for.

I also found around 50 or so walnuts and a large ball of carpet padding behind the interior cladding. After talking to the previous owner, apparently there is a walnut tree across the street where the VX sat while it was waiting for me. I hate squirrels LOL! Not of the wiring was damaged, thankfully, but there was a lot of vacuuming to do. They left some other little “surprises” for me as well.

Over all, a good day. Now that the seatbelts are out, I can start working on building the cargo/storage system for the rear area. I am thinking a drawer style fridge will work better than a typical cooler style. I have most of the supplies I need to frame it out in angle steel. I still need to do some more shopping.

I think the project may be getting back on track. Provided nothing else brakes in the meantime.

[ipd]

I'd mentioned what the rear speakers were mounted on in my write-up, and there's pics on the forum here as well. I thought you'd already known. lol!

I don't think the seat-belt mechanisms front/rear are the same, but I could be wrong. If it's like most other cars though, you can probably fix the fronts being "slack" by "torquing" the spring in them 1-2 more rotations.

I submit that a speaker box in place of the stock rear speaker location isn't really going to net you any advantage, unless you're trying to make them sealed enclosures. Instead, I'd recommend doing what I and others have done, and dremel out the mount to fit bigger speakers. If you want specific details, just ask. I'm happy to help.

[Thelgord]

You probably did mention it and I just forgot about it. No worries. :)

[Thelgord]

So I removed the roof basket and cross bars for the past five tanks of fuel to see if it would affect fuel economy. The average mpg went up 0.03. That’s it. It is insignificant enough to be in a margin of error so I will be putting it back on. That was a fun experiment, but with no real changes.

[Camoman]

Before just disposing of the rear inner seatbelt brackets that the belts clip to, please let me know. I discovered mine missing from PO

[Camoman]

Have you looked at the new Hyundai ironman kona? If not, check it out. It might be the perfect paint scheme for a vehicross. Red and black which matches interior.

[Thelgord]

I know its been a while since I have posted an update, and well that partly because I haven’t done anything with the VX. My son broke his ankle (no worries he’s fine now) and that cost me just over $10k (His part of the bill after insurance was $25k) and required two surgeries. My wife just had to have a house with a swimming pool, and $5k later all of those issues (i hope) are sorted. Finally, my bathtub shifted in the floor. Turns out I had leak in the drain pipe and it rotted a joist, the sub floor, and the beams on the bottom of the surrounding walls. I could have let the insurance take care of it, but it would have nearly doubled my premiums. $20k later I have a new bathroom (and a structurally sound house), but damn this has been an expensive year.

So the project is on hold for a bit as I pay down the debt I have needed to get into to keep everything else going. I am actually glad I had the VX. Before this I had a 2013 Toyota Tacoma TRD OffRoad (Amazing truck btw). However, if I still had those vehicle payments I may have been sunk. In August two smaller loans will be paid off and I can start to really knock down these other bills and hopefully put my emergency fund (which is $0 at the moment) back in the bank.

[Thelgord]

Before just disposing of the rear inner seatbelt brackets that the belts clip to, please let me know. I discovered mine missing from PO

You mean the one the bolts just about to the middle of the floor and comes up in the middle of the back seat?

[Thelgord]

Up until now the VX has been running great. Better than expected actually. Today the passenger window motor died. Again. This will be my 4th motor since I purchased the VX. Dang it.

[Thelgord]

.

[Thelgord]

It has been a long time since I updated this page. It is amazing how much time goes by when life gets in the way. It will be a while longer yet before more modification are done to my baby. The Army has decided that I need to go over seas for a year so the project will be put on hold for a while. I will try to keep up with the site in the mean time.

[Mile High VX]

Thank you for your service...return safe and finish this...:)