Project VXOverLand

[Thelgord]

30 June 2017 I purchased my first ever VX! Ebony #0209!

Here it is as it sits today: 01 September 2018 (this pic will be updated as things change)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/bpixfvo2hj624qx/Photo%20Jan%2019%2C%203%2026%2017%20PM.jpg?raw=1

Down to business...

The VX:
Vehicle: 1999 Isuzu Vehicross
Last Four: 0209
Color: Ebony
Engine: Factory 3.5L V6
Transmission: Factory Auto
Current Wheel Size: 16"
Current Tire Size: 265/70R16

Plan for project: The plan is fairly simple. Prove that you can build a daily driver / Overland Vehicle without the need to drop $40,000+ on the base vehicle before you even get started, and look good doing it!

Total Spent: $7,500

Completed Repairs/Upgrades/Modifications:

Repair Bad Brakes (All of them) (Complete)
Remove Vinyle Wrap (Complete)
Get Transmission Working (Complete)
Replace Battery (Complete)
Passenger Door Exterior Window Seal Missing (Complete)
Drivers Door not opening from outside (Complete)
Recondition Yellowed Head Lights (Complete)
Get Replacement Keys Made (Complete)
Transfer Case Fluid Change (Complete)
Build/Buy Bracket for Battery Tray (Complete)
Install Sound System (Complete)
Recondition/Replace OEM Sterio Antenna (Complete)
Replace Front Half Shafts (Complete)
Fix EGR error code (P0405) (Complete)
Get A/C serviced (works but makes a lot of clicking noise) (Complete)
1 or 2 Inch Lift (Complete)
Recondition Winshield Wiper Arms. (Complete)
31 Inch Tires (Firestone Destination A/T @ 265/70/R16)(Complete)
Fix high idle issue(Complete)
CB Radio (Complete)
Winch (Badlands 12,000lbs) (Complete)
Winch Mount (Complete)
Trailer Hitch Install (Complete)
Repair leaks in the windshield washer system. (Complete)
Full Engine Service (Complete)
Install Transmission Shift Solenoids (Colmplete)
Repair door window motors (Both Sides) (Complete)
Diagnose and repair ABS Light (Complete)
Repair Door Window Tilt Issue (Complete)
Install Auxiliary Fuse Block Under Hood (Complete)
Install Brush Gard (Complete)
Change Diff Fluid (F/R) (Complete)


Planned Repairs/Upgrades/Modifications:

Install Trailer Light Plug (Plug & Additional Wiring Installed but not functioning)
Repair Drivers Front Fender (Changed to repair after closer inspection)
External Spare Tire Mount w/ Fuel Can Holder (Trooper Tire Carrier Purchased)
Rock Sliders
Install Switch Panel (Purchased (Installed USB ports, still waiting to get switches))
Install Storage System
Install Manual Locking Hubs
Install “Blue Wire Mod” for TOD interrupt
(Will Add More As I think of things, but that is enough for today)


Work Log:
30 June 2017: Purchased the VX
01 July 2017: Started to remove the faux carbon fiber vinyl wrap (Drivers Door, Drivers Rear Quater Panel, Rear Door complete)
02 July 2017: Weather was wonkey, so I replaced the transmission filter, both pan gaskets, and new synthetic fluid. Also added 1 Quart of Lucas Oil "Transmission Fix".
03 July 2017: Removed more of the faux vinyl wrap. Still have Roof, Metal part of the hood, and plastic grill surround to do.
04 July 2017: Ordered Weather Strip for the exterior passenger door.
04 July 2017: Removed vinyl wrap from hood.
07 July 2017: Repaired driver door not opening from outside.
08 July 2017: Got three replacement keys made.
09 July 2017: Finished removing all the Vinyl Wrap
10 July 2017: DIY Solution found for door weather strip
10 July 2017: Got license plates and went for first test drive. Break issue discovered.
11 July 2017: Unstuck dragging break caliper. New "groan" noise detected, attempting to diagnose.
13 July 2017: Confirmed order for weather trip for exterior passenger door.
13 July 2017: Ordered Blue Tooth OBD2 Reader
13 July 2017: Diagnosed "groan", low transmission fluid, I didn't buy enough and it was lower than I thought.
15 July 2017: Checked for error codes with OBD2 scanner. P0113 and P0405
15 July 2017: Verified Transmission Fluid Levels
17 July 2017: Conducted first shake down drive.
19 July 2017: Cleaned and polished headlight after removing headlight pod.
19 July 2017: Reinstalled headlight pods.
21 July 2017: Cleared all OBD2 Error codes but P0405 (EGR).
21 July 2017: Conducted General Maintenance around engine bay.
22 July 2017: Tranfer case fluid change complete.
22 July 2017: Discovered numerous leaks in the windshield washer system.
23 July 2017: Discovered Rear Brakes not working
24 July 2017: Purchased Rear Break Pads. Storms Preventing Install Today.
24 July 2017: Purchased and installed battery bracket (Universal Fit)
30 July 2017: First attempt at installing OEM window seal failed.
31 July 2017: New front speakers on order.
31 July 2017: New head unit on order & waiting to ship.
31 July 2017: Clips for Window Strip on order, waiting to ship.
31 July 2017: Devious Plans still in development.
31 July 2017: Possible cause of 0405 error code found.
01 August 2017: Tried last possible cause of code 0405, failed.
04 August 2017: Replacement Head Unit finally ships. Finally!
05 August 2017: Head Unit and speakers arrived today!
07 August 2017: Head Unit Installed. Need to finalize mount.
08 August 2017: Head Unit Install complete.
11 August 2017: Started Rear Brake Work, issues discovered
15 August 2017: Replaced one (1) rear lug stud
15 August 2017: Finished Rear Brakes! Finally! (M:167357)
16 August 2017: Replaced OEM radio antenna
25 August 2017: Ordered replacement half axles for the front.
01 September 2017: Installed new front brake pads.
01 September 2017: Installed new front axle half shafts.
01 September 2017: Inpected and repacked front wheel bearings.
01 September 2017: Installed exterior window seal clips.
04 September 2017: Installed EGR Valve (P0405 now clear)
15 September 2017: Installed replacement air filter box
15 September 2017: Installed replacement brake booster hose
15 September 2017: Cleaned the MAF sensor
23 September 2017: Installed New Air Filter
23 September 2017: Installed New MAF Sensor
23 September 2017: Installed New 130 Amp Alternator
24 September 2017: Tightened up steering box, removed play from steering
25 September 2017: A/C system seems to be working normal again.
14 October 2017: Site was down, performing work log update.
14 October 2017: Installed new throttle position sensor.
14 October 2017: Installed new idle are control valve.
14 October 2017: Purchased a number of engine parts to install this weekend.
14 October 2017: Purchased Old Man EMU suspension (shocks and coils) to be installed this weekend.
14 October 2017: Began cardboard modeling of winch mount/off-road bumper.
14 October 2017: Removed/Replaced/Repaired more wiring.
15 October 2017: Lift Kit Installed, driver window motor quit.
21 October 2017: Replace Fuel Pressure Regulator on fuel rail.
22 October 2017: Replaced intake and throttle body gasket.
22 October 2017: Fixed driver window not going up all the way.
24 October 2017: Ordered the OEM VX CrossBars today. Hopefully they will ship on the 26th.
25 October 2017: New tires and alignment.
29 October 2017: Installed new intake manifold gasket.
30 October 2017: Fixed high idle issue! Yay!
31 October 2017: OEM Yakima Roof Bars for the VX installed.
10 November 2017: Installed a Reese Roof Basket, Phone Mount, and a 2nd new upper intake manifold gasket.
15 November 2017: Ordered a Curt Hitch from e-trailer.com
24 November 2017: Completed CB Radio Install.
25 November 2017: Purchased Winch. Curt Hitch Arrived.
20 December 2017: ABS Light came on
26 December 2017: Removed Crash Bumper
26 December 2017: Started to build winch mount
30 December 2017: Completed fabrication of winch mount
31 December 2017: Installed Winch Mount and Winch (Not wired up yet)
01 January 2018: Winch wired and working, pulled steel cable off
13 January 2018: Trailer Hitch Install Completed
23 January 2018: Installed passenger window motor. Window now tilts
10 February 2018: Window Washer leaks seems to have fixed themselves. Probably dry seals.
16 February 2018: Dropped at a shop for an entire engine workup.
20 February 2018: Got the VX back from the shop, new EGR valve installed (yes, again)
24 February 2018: Did the SeaFoam clean due to an EGR related CEL, codes staying clear for now.
07 March 2018: Pulled and cleaned the “Mode Selector/Neutral Safety Switch”.
17 March 2018: Replaced all five shift solenoids.
17 March 2018: Replaced the transmission mount.
17 March 2018: Replaced the transmission filter.
24 March 2018: Conducted Fuel System Pressure Test
24 March 2018: Replaced Fuel Filter
25 March 2018: 1st Successful test drive with no issues what so ever.
30 March 2018: Finally changed the spark plugs.
31 March 2018: Drilled the plastic “grill” to allow winch clutch access.
02 April 2018: Got dash switch mount inserts.
06 April 2018: Attempted a “window” fix, passenger side. New regulator required.
12 April 2018: Greased window tracks both sides.
21 April 2018: Purchased A/C Condesor Fan.
21 April 2018: Purchased Heated, Leather, Power seats.
01 May 2018: Purchased In Channel Rain Gaurds.
04 May 2018: Installed WeatherTech In Channel Rain Gaurds.
25 May 2018: Reinstalled A/C Condenser Fan.
25 May 2018: Installed wireless winch controller.
25 May 2018: Removed after market car alarm.
25 May 2018: Removed Rear Seat.
26 May 2018: Test fit replacement seats. Failure.
31 May 2018: ABS System repaired.
06 June 2018: Repaired Passenger Window Function.
15 June 2018: Purchased new TPS
15 June 2018: Purchased RTV for transmission pan
16 June 2018: Fixed leak in transmission
16 June 2018: Installed BlueSea Fuse Block under hood
18 August 2018: Replaced both front brake calipers and pads
27 August 2018: Lost Key to Lug Nuts (Will have tire shop remove them)
27 August 2018: Obtained Fog Light & 4WD switch from another Isuzu
27 August 2018: Obtained Brush Gaurd
01 September 2018 Brush Guard Installed
30 September 2018 Replaced rear speakers
27 October 2018 Started to work on the Transmission Shift Shaft Seal
28 October 2018 Finished Shift Shaft Seal replacement.
03 November 2018 Changed Differential Fluid (F/R)
09 November 2018 Replaced Throttle Position Sensor (Second New One)
23 November 2018 Replaced lower intake manifold gasket (drivers side failed).
23 November 2018 Discovered failing MAF. Will attempt to clean before replacing.
30 November 2018 Installed new MAF.
31 December 2018 installed new TPS.
19 January 2019 Painted Cladding
17 February 2019 Removed Rear Seatbelts
01 July 2019 Passenger Window Motor Failed

[Thelgord]

More IMGR links to pics I have available at the moment:

http://imgur.com/jPpmcmq
http://imgur.com/JEdcXlN
http://imgur.com/ErODJh6
http://imgur.com/6dTBkB8
http://imgur.com/yDiTKcO
http://imgur.com/bsG1RDr
http://imgur.com/cT6csRh
http://imgur.com/fvrN9m5
http://imgur.com/ASHyPdc
http://imgur.com/vCCXwFz
http://imgur.com/D3geXjr
http://imgur.com/frxHdbq

That's all for now. I have more pictures on my PC at work and I will post them sometime after the long weekend.

[ipd]

peel the sliver stripes off the cowl cover. they're already peeling anyways. :)

[Thelgord]

Probably going to replace them actually ;)

[ipd]

Jo and I would probably both recommend just getting WO seat covers. You can have the stock ones recovered, but you can WO's, which are waterproof, don't require nearly as much care, and come in virtually any color you want.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/inperfectdarkness/P1020487_zpsdnbv2yyv.jpg~original

OEM badges are non-existent. Reproductions are sometimes available, but they're not in relief. Pulling stock decals off another VX is virtually impossible. I plan to Line-X over my stock ones.

Make sure you treat the headlights with some kind of UV coating after you get they bright/shiny. In my experience, they yellow even faster after you de-yellow them the 1st time, because all the UV protectant gets taken off. I've got covers on mine, which hides the yellow, protects the stock light, and looks a bit more menacing than the stock light shape.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/inperfectdarkness/P1020481_zpsdolp6dey.jpg~original

Also put in LED headlights. They're WAY brighter than stock, and (imho) largely eliminate the need for any secondary lighting.

Last but not least, Curt hitch is the most widely available. Many have Tone's--and there's nothing wrong with it. However, Tone's is next to impossible to find, and not officially rated for capacity. Here's mine, with a Super-Bumper & spare receiver installed. Kat was the one who sold me on the idea of the Superbumper, and frankly--versus the idea of having my car totaled from a rear-end at 4mph (parts are impossible to find) , I'll take the Superbumper any day.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/inperfectdarkness/P1020483_zpsxpp0slbs.jpg~original

[Thelgord]

I have been look at the WO seat covers. I really like them, but have never actually seen them. Any issues? DO they breath so you don't get covered in your own sweat?

Good call on the LED Lights. AFter cleaning them up I was thinking of covering them in clear UV resistant plastic. I have seen it done before, but I don't how long that will last.

For the trailer hitch, you are right about the Curt being the most popular. I was starting to think it may be the only one available. LOL!

There are also quite a few other minor parts I am looking for. The faux carbon fiber door panel part on my drivers door has a massive crack running through it. Both door handles and door panels need to be reconditioned/fixed/replaced. I still need a copy of the one key I have. Should probably get the key fob (or two) as well. One of the front yellow reflectors is cracked. The list goes on LOL!

[ipd]

The WO's breathe much better than the stock leather, imho. Unless you're fitting an Aeron chair in your car, there's no such thing as "breathing" well; but WO's and cloth will breathe better than vinyl or leather--that's for sure. The logo I have on mine was not an offering on their storefront, so I sent them the JPG of the lettering & they had it put on. To me, this makes it seem much more "stock" than without. Here's pics on their store:

https://www.wetokole.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/14064-9959-12-23.jpg
https://www.wetokole.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/1843.jpg
https://www.wetokole.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/173.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Lizard-Skins-Chainstay-Protector-LARGE/dp/B0186OQS8O/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499080467&sr=8-2&keywords=lizard+skins+chainstay+protector

Rather than replace my door handles, (they come loose when the tabs break off) I used a pair of these. I think i got large, but medium should work and fit better. Cut them in half in the middle, and velcro them to each other so they're twice as wide--then wrap around the inside door handle.

No close up pics, but you can see them on the passenger side here:

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/inperfectdarkness/P1020486_zpsoxebku3n.jpg~original

Not perhaps the prettiest solution, but subtle, viable and eliminates the need to think about it. IMHO, good idea so you can focus on other, more pressing matters & re-attack it later if you so choose.

[Mile High VX]

OEM 15" Snowflake wheels would be a great touch...be careful with your wheels...lots of wheels say they fit but they don't because of our calipers.

[Thelgord]

What are snowflake wheels ... google doesn't seem to know that one.

Never mind, found it.

[ipd]

he probably means 15" steelies, not snowflakes. ^

[Thelgord]

I was thinking of the classic black steelies that's were popular in the eighties.

[eternal21]

Plan for project: The plan is fairly simple. Prove that you can build a daily driver / Overland Vehicle without the need to drop $40,000+ on the base vehicle before you even get started, and look good doing it!

Welcome to the community and good luck with the build. FWIW, I DD my VX and have done much of what is in your list and then some. I still smile every time I climb in.

[Thelgord]

Tonight I pulled off more of the faux carbon fiber vinyl wrap off the VX. Pulling wrap off of the plastic hood insert has probably been the worst do so far. Took me longer to do that one small piece than I have spent pulling it off the rest of the body. It was just so brittle that every single piece was smaller than a quarter before it would break off. Although, for the metal that is wrapped, I have discovered the wonders of a heat gun. All I have left is the metal part of the hood, the roof, and the grill surround. This has been a bigger PITA than working on the transmission! LOL! But work continues.

I also tried to get the title transferred today, but forgot a document. With the holiday it will be later in the week before I can get it transferred and get plates.

[Thelgord]

Ordered the lower window weather strip for my passenger door. I hope I got the right part anyway. Assuming I did, what type of glue/adhesive is used to secure it to the door body?

Thanks eternal21

[Thelgord]

I start working night shift tonight so I had to stay up all night anyway to get my sleep schedule adjusted. Since I was up anyway I decided to go ahead and take the vinyl off the rest of the hood. I can't believe just how bad this vinyl wrap is. Maybe it is just very old. I really don't know but it did not stand the test of time. After this experience I don't think I will ever wrap a vehicle. Well, not unless I know it is going to be a temporary wrap anyway.

While working, I was thinking of what color to paint the VX. I should probably start a poll for this, but I only ever see a few people on here and not sure what kind of response I would get and the paint is probably a month out. Anyway, I was thinking desert tan/sand/something or other. The wrap was covering some minor dings that look like hail or maybe small stones on the hood. I have discovered that wrap can coverup a lot of errors in body work. I am hoping that the roof isn't covered in small dents as well, but I won't know until I get the wrap off.

I also discovered that the damage to the drivers fender isn't as bad as I thought and I should be able to fix it with a little bondo work. What I thought was a crater turned out to be two small(ish) dents. Unfortunately each has a crease in the center of the dents, which means no way to fix the metal. So I either need a replacement, or some some minor body filler work. The body filler seems the cheaper route since I am going to be painting anyway. I'll try to get some pictures up when I can. Converting my covered parking into a paint booth should be fun, and it will also give my wife a chance to yell at me about making more of a mess! LOL!

[ipd]

There's a guy on here who did his in line-x in a sand color. IMHO, earth tones work better for flat finishes. If you want a gloss/shiny finish like OEM paint, then I'd probably stick to a JDM color option.

reposted:

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/3283/JDM_Premium_Color_25_Brochure_Page_3.jpg

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/3283/JDM_Premium_Color_25_Brochure_Page_2.jpg

(someday) I'm going to go with something close to the 2nd one down on the right, 2nd page; something grape to match my seat covers & stuff.

[Thelgord]

I can't see Line-X as a viable option. Maybe for the cladding, maybe. Honestly though I am not a fan of "cover everything" in Line-X. Sure it's strong and all that, but when it does get damaged repairs are so much more complicated, and expensive. It also adds a lot of unnecessary weight to the vehicle. Line-X is heavy when done correctly, and if you go thinner to save weight you are sacrificing protection. I am going to stick with enamel paint and clear coat. Body work isn't hard to do at home.

[Thelgord]

No additional work today. I still need to finish removing this flaky vinyl wrap from the roof and grill insert. I also still need to source the lower window trim piece for the passenger side door. So far i have had to two site tell me it is unavailable. I may have to look at buying an entire door just to get the piece, though I dont want to spend that kind of money for just the trim piece.

For the most part, the paint under the wrap isn't terrible, except where it is. The side badge locations look like a power sander was taken to it, and they didn't even do that part right. Still, the metal is mostly strait and I am confident that I can repair the damage myself. I am hoping to finish the wrap removal this weekend as I continue to search for my missing trip piece. Tomorrow I go get the title transferred and get some plates for it. If I can get the wrap off the roof at least once i have plates I can take it for a full service.

That's the plan anyway.... we shall see ...

[Thelgord]

Got an order in on a thrid site ... fingers crossed ...

[Thelgord]

As promised, here are the images from the when I picked it up: (20+ pics)

http://imgur.com/Urn17rb
http://imgur.com/e8IVG5Q
http://imgur.com/d4GS5D0
http://imgur.com/0J2abps
http://imgur.com/JgT8yu8
http://imgur.com/8ifBxum
http://imgur.com/OxP4fOS
http://imgur.com/6kyqOxQ
http://imgur.com/8fy55In
http://imgur.com/DWifR7r
http://imgur.com/NYRGfym
http://imgur.com/4bh3mEm
http://imgur.com/LvZgwgU
http://imgur.com/JhSmqWh
http://imgur.com/vPPHdtX
http://imgur.com/u7yOCYL
http://imgur.com/ggjAVGu
http://imgur.com/DcDWqlA
http://imgur.com/HGxluzx
http://imgur.com/u5Z6teb
http://imgur.com/WpUJiBB
http://imgur.com/kOxI6zc


That's all of my pics for now.

[ipd]

I'll make a deal with you. If you can find someone who will cover your armrest with the seat-cover fabric I have from WO, I'll GIVE you my armrest free. Mine's minty.

[Thelgord]

??? Not sure what you are proposing here.

Anyway, just got done fixing the driver door. It didn't open from the outside as the little plastic clip at the end of the metal arm had a broken tab. Removed the clip and one tiny zip tie and problem solved.

[Thelgord]

I'll make a deal with you. If you can find someone who will cover your armrest with the seat-cover fabric I have from WO, I'll GIVE you my armrest free. Mine's minty.

Had to re-read that a couple of times, but I see what you are saying. I'll see what I can do.

[ipd]

Guess I wasn't clear. I want an armrest that matches my seats. I have fabric. I don't have any leads on upholstery shops. So if you can figure out how to "git r' done", and get your cracked one recovered, I'll be happy to swap you my good one.

[Thelgord]

I am finding with owning a VX, there seems to be a lot of "git r' done" moments. LOL!

[Thelgord]

ACE Hardware can make keys! Took them forever to find the blank, ended up being called a GM something or other. Anyway, the tip of the day is, the blank is number B65P at my local hardware store.

[ipd]

wow. I just took my key in to ACE and they had it right there. Odd.

Does the remote locks work?

[Thelgord]

wow. I just took my key in to ACE and they had it right there. Odd.

Does the remote locks work?

I don't have a Key Fob for it. I found some on eBay, but I am not sure which one to get.

[Thelgord]

Since I don't want to wait 2+ months to order a new weather strip I have decided to make one.

I started with a piece of 3/4" X 48" aluminum angle. Cut to length, then notched the ends.Then I put it in a vice and squeezed it to a tighter angle than 45 degrees. Took out ot the VX to curve of the window correct. It actually fits really well. Now I just need to cover it. I have been playing with this stuff called Flex Seal. Horrible stuff. Comes out all bubbly, goes everywhere, and is a real pain to clean up. After it sets up I am probably going to peal it off and try something else. Maybe plasti-dip, not sure yet.

[Thelgord]

Holy cow I am finally done with the damn vinyl wrap! After this I am never going to wrap a vehicle. Ever! Now I need to remove all the glue spots and give the VX a good wash to start prepping for paint.

[ipd]

See if you can find generic weather stripping at an auto store or at home depot. Then superglue/rivet/affix to your aluminum strip. A left-field idea would be to see if you can find a different vehicle with the same wether-stripping length, and see if you can retrofit said weatherstripping onto your vx.

[Thelgord]

See if you can find generic weather stripping at an auto store or at home depot. Then superglue/rivet/affix to your aluminum strip. A left-field idea would be to see if you can find a different vehicle with the same wether-stripping length, and see if you can retrofit said weatherstripping onto your vx.

Agreed. I am sure there is a some model of GM that uses t he same piece. This is turning out harder than I though it would. The devil is always in the details! LOL! Oh, btw, stay away from Flex Seal! I am stil cleaning this stuff off of my hands! LOL!

Spent last night getting the vinyl wrap off, now that's the sun is up, time for pics! (Status pic on post #1 updated)

http://imgur.com/6Kn8hGI.jpg
http://imgur.com/XwN6yA4.jpg

Those are the glue residue left behind after the wrap was removed. It is seriously all over the VX. The only way to keep the vinyl from breaking into a billion tiny pieces was to get it so hot that it nearly melted and pull as fast as I could. Unfortunately this glue was left behind no matter what I did. Impact areas (front of hood, front of roof, etc...) seemed as thgough the wrap was imbedded in the paint. Spent enormous amounts of time working spots of vinyl about the size of a ball on a ball-point pen. Time for acetone!

I work nights, and my wife has had a friend staying with us for the last few days, so I am hoping to be able to get plates on the VX tomorrow.

[ipd]

honestly, I don't think anything out there uses the same small-stuff as the VX. GM had very little to say about the VX's origins. Maybe something in the Isuzu parts bin, but I'm not optimistic.

[Thelgord]

Honetsly neither am I. But work must progress either way.

[Thelgord]

So, I am reconsidering the whole bed liner thing. I seen one that was done very well in a very nice blue color. It wasn't even an extreme color, it just look ok.

http://www.monstaliner.com/forms/monstaliner_colors.htm

I ordered some paint chips, they are free, any ideas for a color?

[Thelgord]

So, first real test drive. I got plates! Finally. Total distance 2.3 miles. The first half mile was to the gas station as the tank was on empty. I put in premium and a bottle of injector cleaner. It looks like the previous owner knew nothing about proper car care.

On that subject, it seams I have a drivers side, front, break caliper dragging. :o Yay ... one more thing to the list! LOL!

[Thelgord]

Aside from the breaks, I did get a DIY window trim solution completed.

I started with this stuff: http://i.imgur.com/c7Qcou0.jpg

9 feet long for ~$6 at Lowes. When you take it our of the package, it looks like this: http://i.imgur.com/AVs1PLA.jpg

It was the edge at the top I wanted. I measured a section for length, and notched it out the same way I did the aluminum angle piece I was playing with the first time. Once I had a good fit, I layed it out flat and cut the top section off measuring 7/8" from the flattened edge. I then secured it with a very tiny ammount of gorilla glue. Not the best solution, but it will work until the OEM piece arrives from Japan.

A couple of shots from the outside:
http://i.imgur.com/11WqBNj.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/sH4PujU.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/5APijx8.jpg

And one from the inside:
http://i.imgur.com/TfTKr7N.jpg

Been a busy day for a guy who works night shift. With that, I am off to bed and I will try to not dream of how big of an issue the breaks may actually be.

[ipd]

Looks good. I knew you could come up with something. :)

I wouldn't worry too much about the brakes. pads and most of it is from troopers. probably also 100% compatible with passports. Flush it, bleed it, resurface/replace rotors, new pads, and it should work like a champ--unless the booster is shot or the lines need replaced.

[Thelgord]

Break parts will run just under $100, so I have to wait until after payday. Budgets ... meh. In the meantime I can work on other issues that still need resolving. Like the drivers seat thread breaking, removing the glue left behind from the vinyl wrap, cleaning up wiring wiring issues, things like that. I can also work on the passenger window, which should just need greeted up. It is starting to get a little wobbly when rolling it up.

[ipd]

I haven't found much data on hot application vs cold application liner/protectant. I like what monsta's own website says--but that's usually marketing fluff.

My impression is that hot application tends to wear better & last longer than cold application, and is more resistant to temperature extremes.

[Thelgord]

So as it turns out, breaks are fine actually. I was digging through the repair manual and found a page discussing the issue. So, following the manual, I cleaned the rotor with break fluid, started the engine (no idea why this is impoortant, but the book said so), pumped the break a few times, worked the e-break a few times, then, I was supposed to be on a lift and spin the wheel, but since I was on a small incline I just put it in neutral and let it roll back. It did move at first, then I repeated the process while in neutral. About the second actuation of the e-brake, the caliper popped free and the VX started to roll down hill. I stopped it (with the break), put it back in park and did the entire procress (including more break cleaner) three more times. Breaks are working fine now.

So relieved! That saved me almost $100.

While I did confirm the breaks works normally now, I still have an unidentified groan. I am fairly certain it is the transmission. When I got the VX, it was nearly completely out of fluid. I am thinking that after my little test drive, it pulled more fluid into the internals and i may be low on fluid again.

The groan only happens when applying power to the VX, and while in gear. Groan increases with petal travel, even if I am stopped and holding the break. I think this weekend (it is not yet a daily driver, to many issues still), I will check the fluid again.

[Thelgord]

Just got an email from isuzupartscenter.com, which is actually Jack Miller Kia Isuzu out of North Kansas City, Missouri, they processed my order for window trim! $70.92 for part #0972217290 - Seal; Waist, Front. That's a bit 'o chash for what seems like a minor piece, but I need to get this project done right.

A couple of posts back I mentioned a door handle clip being broken. I could order one of those as well, but I really don't to spend $45 on a plastic clip that is a bit larger than a nickel. I still have the original (minus one tab) and I have found a website that can 3D print custom items, even one-off's. Now I just need to learn google sketchup to create the file they will need. I have also heard rumors that my local library (brand new and opens in a month or so) will also have 3D printers for use, so I may wait a while and see if that turn out to be true before ordering online.

I also ordered an OBD2 reader from amazon that uses an app and Bluetooth. It says it can reset check engine lights and read everything. I installed the app, it asked for a vehicle vin and downloaded all of the OEM codes for the VX! Once I get the reader I will let you know how well it works, if it works.

[ipd]

check and see if they can 3/d print you spare cover knobs too. ;)

[Thelgord]

For the door locks?

[ipd]

no, for the hatch.

[Thelgord]

I dont have those or the hatch cover for the inside. I am sure they could though if you could get an appropriate 3D file.

[Thelgord]

The website is: https://www.shapeways.com

I hit them up on Facebook about automotive interior trim pieces and small plastic bits and they said it shouldn't be a problem. Basically they can print anything, some even out of metal, though I think that would be very expensive. I don't have any prices yet, they need the 3D model file before they can give a quote.

[Thelgord]

Checked the transmission fluid again, no leaks! Yay!

The VX seems to be running OK. I am getting a couple of OBD codes that I am trying o sort out. Intake temp sensor and EGR recirculation temp. Looking though the manual they charge a common ground so I will clean both sensors and check the wiring before changing parts.

I am also getting a strange "wuring" noise from the engine. Not sure if it is the fan, or if the intake is sucking air, or if I have an exhaust leak, or if that's normal. Just haven't tracked everything down yet.

[Thelgord]

Conducted first real "test drive" today. Total distance around 25 miles, speeds to 60mph, mix of back roads and in town traffic. Also did grocery shopping. This was mainly to get a feel for how the VX drives, and to try to learn the VX, and I learned a lot. I learned the steering is a bit on the sloppy side, could probably do with an alignment, steering wheel is "centered" when driving strait, and the cargo area is far smaller than I had originally thought. However, the engine stayed cool, the AC worked well (though a lot of condensation), the transmission (which I was worried about) performed flawlessly, and I learned it is a lot of fun to drive. I calling this one a win.

[ipd]

Cargo area only "looks" small. That's because the back seats are exceptionally roomy for a vehicle this size. Then you fold them flat to the front seats, and find you can fit 4 full-size tires in the back end. :)

[Thelgord]

Took the front bumper and grill off today. The "tube" that I assume is the actual bumper in nearly rusted though on the drivers side. I guess that is a perfect excuse to build my winch mount ;)

I also removed the headlight housings to clean and polish them. I am using the "Rustoleum Wipe New" head light kit. I must say this stuff is amazing! I have the final coat "curing" on the back porch now. I will post comparison pics when I get installed tomorrow. The reason I am not installing today is the instructions say to keep it was from moisture for 24 hours, even dew. Where I am in Georgia morning dew looks like a rain storm came through over night this time of year.

Also, how do you test ball joints?

[Thelgord]

Got the head light pods reinstalled.

Here is what it used to look like: http://imgur.com/x45xv2M.jpg

Here is what it looks like now:
http://imgur.com/kF5ndOJ.jpg
http://imgur.com/0VIV8wr.jpg
http://imgur.com/MKJDBoJ.jpg

And reinstalled:
http://imgur.com/918tegl.jpg

Took some serious elbow grease, but I "got-er-dunn" hahaha

[ipd]

If you're talking about the ball joints on the control arms, what I usually do is jack up the frame so the wheel is off the ground, then try moving it. If it moves on yaw axis, you probably have a tie-rod issue. if it moves on the roll axis (top/bottom), you probably have a ball joint issue.

Put some Mother's back to black or something on that trim. ;)

[Thelgord]

One thing at a time. I have a lot to do in order to get this VX right again. It is worse shape than I thought, but the price was right so I didn't expect perfection anyway. ;)

[Thelgord]

More progress today.

Got rid of all the engines codes except the P0405 (EGR Low) error. I pulled the EGR sensor, new gasket, cleaned it out really good. It seemed to move freely, but at over 170k miles it probably needs a new one. Before I did all that, the error would come back in 3-5 seconds. After all that, and idling for 20 minutes it would take up to 15 seconds to come back, and after a quick 15 mile drive down a back highway it now takes nearly 30 seconds to come back. I am not sure if the gasket is "seating" itself, or if the damn thing just needs changed out. Probably the latter. It looks fairly rough. I'll let the engine cool down for a while then check it again.

My other issue was the Air Intake Temp sensor (P0113 I think). Solved that fairly quickly. Cleaned the plug and re-inserted. That one was easy. As soon as I did it though, the air intake throttle control thing (cant remember the exact name at the moment, but it has the two small torque screws), decided it wanted to make the engine start and idle at 2600 RPM. That was a PITA to diagnose.

Once I figured out what it was it was just a simple matter of removing it, give it (and the housing) a good thorough cleaning and reinstall. This VX is becoming quite the little problem child! LOL! But, that tends to happens when they haven't been treated right for a long time. Oh well. It's late July in Georgia and hot as all get out. I think I am done working on it for today .... nahhhhh ....

[Thelgord]

Finally got around to doing the transfer case fluid, yay! More progress! Like the transmission the fluid was a burnt brown color. New fluid should help it along.

I also changed the transmission drain plug gasket back to a copper crush washer. I tried one of those cool bolts with the rubber around the base, it leaked. No issues with the crush washers, even if I have to change them every time I remove the bolt.

Also got the windshield washers working, sort of. More than a few leaks are present. I think I am just going to have to swap out all of the old lines. Even the washer fluid reservoir leaked. Add that to my to-do list. Sighhhh ...

I have also identified my groaning noise. Apparently it is coming from 1 or both differentials. I was planning a fluid change anyway, so that will probably be next. Still need to the engine oil and spark plugs, belt, should probably do the timing belt at some point.

Anyway, progress continues....

[Thelgord]

Purchased new praise pads for the rear however I don't have a garage, just a car port. Storms are preventing further work on the VX today.



I bled the rear brakes just for giggles sake. Turns out the rear brakes work now. I still need to change the pads out, but it isn't such a rush job anymore.

[Thelgord]

Got the hardware hit for the brakes on order (the little clips).

Installed a universal battery bracket.

Feels good to see items on the TODO list getting green text. Breaking the tasks down from "Completely Fix Everything!" To smaller tasks helps me stay focused and gives me a sense that I am actually accomplishing something.

[ipd]

Yep, i know how that feels. Keep up the good work!

[Thelgord]

Got the rest of my brake parts in today. Also, the parts I ordered from Japan back on the 13th came in as well! Yay! It's going to be a fun weekend.

[Thelgord]

First attempt at installing the OEM weather trim failed. All of my clips broke so I attempted, and failed, to repair them. Such a pain in the @$$ this thing is. Now I need to find those stupid clips, or come up with a different solution to hold it in place. The good news I finally have all of the parts I need for the rear brakes. Next Sunday I start a 19 day vacation, so that'll be fun ...

[Thelgord]

Got the clips (see above) on order, hopefully they wont take too long to ship. This weekend is brakes, engine oil, front and rear diff fluid, grease u-joints, and I still need to track down a vacuum leak that I have been unable to locate.

[Thelgord]

I think I found the cause of my EGR valve code. There is a large hose that goes from the brake booster to the top of the engine with a one-way check valve embedded inside. The air is supposed to flow freely, but it makes a "noise" when I blow through it and it seems restricted. The valve is working in the other direction, stopping back air flow as it should. I will try to clean it out later in the week, maybe tomorrow if I have time, before I buy I new one.

[Thelgord]

Today I tried the last possible fix for my error code 0405, cleaning the piping that runs both directions from the EGR valve. No luck, code still comes back. Time to get a new one. Damn it.

[Thelgord]

As the VX gets more and ready for daily use, I am starting to get rid of my other 4x4, a 2013, Toyota Tacoma. First thing to go is the camper shell as it doesn't really change the value of the truck at all and I get a better return by selling it separately. That money will go into the VX and will be more than enough to get her ready to take over as my daily driver.

[Thelgord]

New head unit finally shipped! Sat in "pending" status for over a week. Still waiting on waist seal clips to arrive. I start 19 days of vacation on Monday, I plan to start the work on the breaks then.

[Thelgord]

Head unit and speakers installed today! Just need to finalize the mount in the dash as the unit is just a tad too large.

Head Unit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IHBN2Z8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Front Speakers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F64PAV8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazingly enough, for the price, it sounds ... well ... amazing. The Bluetooth works well, and receiver picks up more stations than my JBL in my Tacoma. Less than $40 and I have tunes again!

[ipd]

Hope they last for you. My experience with the cheaper end of speakers is that they usually don't last very long. Even without "Stereo Abuse", the ambient conditions don't do wonders for the materials used in their construction.

[eternal21]

That is a pain in the butt to do, for sure. I have my spare one soaking right now so that the job won't be as hard this time around.

[Thelgord]

Worked on the rear brakes yesterday, and of course, new issues were found. Got the passenger side brake pads changed out easy enough. Drivers side was missing a lug nut when I purchased the VX so I popped into the auto parts store and got a replacement. However, after I took the wheel off, I noticed the lug was just destroyed. Threads were all sorts of chewed up. No problem (I thought), just pop it out and replace it. The new lug is being a rear PITA to get re-seated properly, and being Georgia, it decided just dump all sort of rain and bad weather on me. (My next house WILL have a garage) I would finish it up today, but I am heading out of town until Tuesday and yes, I am still waiting waiting for my weather strip clips to arrive.

[Thelgord]

While working on the rear brakes I discovered a bad lug stud. After breaking 2 replacements, I finally got a new one to seat correctly. PRO TIP: Grease your spacer washers LOL!

Also completed the rear brake work today! Yay! The VX stops MUCH better now. Whew ... that was WAY more work than it needed to be.

As it turns out, there is a wear bar that scratches the rotor when the pads become too thin. The last person to work on the brakes used these as clips to hold the pad to the mounting clips. It was keeping the pads from moving. I put on the new pads anyway, and properly this time.

Seriously, 99% of the problems with my VX are a lack of doing things right the first time. I am fixing so many things that shouldn't even be an issue! Arrrrrgggg! It is ... frustrating to say the least.

[ipd]

Unfortunately, that's a standard feature of many used cars. ^ Glad to see you're reviving it. :)

[Thelgord]

I am still getting grinding/grating noise out of something in the front axle. I have yet to track that down, could be a stuck caliper, low diff fluid, or even a wheel bearing. Both wheels seem to act the same and it doesn't pull to one side or the other, though it does need an alignment. At this point I am thinking (hoping) diff fluid needs to be changed out.

[Thelgord]

I was at Walmart today with my better half and picked up a new radio antenna. It's more ... floppy ... than the OEM antenna, but still looks good and is a good match for what it replaced. At only $9 I am not complaining.

[ipd]

I ended up buying a VW antenna off a member here a while back. I'd have given you my old one if I'd known you needed one. :p

[Thelgord]

Work on the VX has slowed as I wait for parts to arrive. :o Still waiting for my window seal clips.

Also, after inspecting the front end for a grating/grinding noise that I wasn't able to track down, I found both outer CV boots split wide open. I have two half axles on order and I will change out the front brake pads, inspect the calipers, and inspect the outer wheel bearings on both sides. The brakes, maybe bearings, maybe rotors, will be next weekend.

The axle shafts I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DCNQWGS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[MSHardeman]

In case you haven't seen it, member Kenny wrote up a great front bearing re-pack how-to a few years back:

http://www.vehicross.info/showthread.php/11324-NEW-Front-Bearings-and-Disc-install-(pics)-oh-what-fun?highlight=

I've used this to re-pack my front bearing a couple of times now. Very helpful.

[Thelgord]

Thanks for the link, it helped a lot!

Today was a good day. New front brakes. Fixed sticking caliper, needed the guid bolt re-greased. Repacked the bearings since they were all in good shape. Replaced both front axle halfs! Yay me! The last part was both and harder and easier than expected. Harder in that the axles didn't want to come out, easier in that I learned there is less to it than I thought.

[Thelgord]

Need to update my signature again LOL!

[Thelgord]

Yay! My window clips came in today! One more task to turn green!

[Thelgord]

Another yay! I went to pull-a-part and got an EGR Valve off of a 2000 tropper. No more CEL! Yay!

I also got a key from from it, but either the battery is dead, or it is not compatible. I will try to change the batteries (it takes two disk type) and see if that works.

[Thelgord]

Went back to Pull-A-Part today. From a 2000 Tropper I got a new Air Filter box, a brake booster hose, and the rear door tire carrier. It's been a good day. All for $40.

[Thelgord]

Took a chance today. Ordered a new MAF sensor from Parts Geek dot com. We'll see how this works, but at only $40, it was worth a one time risk.

[ipd]

I'm still debating on ordering a clockspring from an older trooper. I am unable to verify if that will allow me to plug/play my JDM steering wheel.

[Thelgord]

You may want to check your local salvage yard before spending a lot of money.

[ipd]

Hopefully when my life settles a bit. I just wish someone out there knew the answer already. Odds are, someone probably does--but since FB has destroyed auto forums, I'm SOL. Sadly, since FB requires compromising your phone number to their machine--just so you can see/post--I'm going to have to continue passing.

[Thelgord]

I really wish the moderator of the form would unlock the HOWTO section. Even if it had to be rebuilt, it would be a good thing.

[Thelgord]

Placed a 130Amp alternator on order tonight. Working night shift means that I, generally, drive at night. I think my OEM alternator is already starting to struggle. When I used the blinkers the dash lights dim each time they blink. Should be here in time to get it put on this weekend.

I also discovered that spraying parts cleaner into the intake is a bad idea. The exhaust was terrible. LOL!

[Thelgord]

Yay! It was a good day! I installed a new air filter, MAF sensor, and the 130 Amp Alternator! Yay!

The alternator was a PITA. However, now that it’s done. Instead of 12.9 volts at idle I am now at 14.7 volts. I think the old one was slowly killing my battery as I drive it mostly at night. I work night shift.

Now it’s idles at the proper RPM (around 980 cold) instead of 2000-2100 RPM. Purrs like a kitten!

Alternator I used: http://www.ebay.com/itm/282467615512
MAF I used: https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/1999/isuzu/vehicross/air_intake/air_mass_sensor.html?rp=mass_air_flow_sensor (I used the cheap one ... )

We will see how long the budget MAF lasts.

[Thelgord]

Just FYI for anyone just now getting to this thread, the first post is updated with an ongoing build log if you want too see everything I have done, so far anyway.

[Thelgord]

Finally got the steering tightened down. Steering wheel is still off center, but the responsiveness! Holy cow is this little truck nimble!

[bartmanS4]

Did you do this by adjusting the steering gearbox? The flathead screw inside the locking hex-nut? I need to do mine in a big way.

[Thelgord]

Did you do this by adjusting the steering gearbox? The flathead screw inside the locking hex-nut? I need to do mine in a big way.

Yes I did. The nut was majorly stuck. I ended up dousing it with WD40, wait 15-20 minuets, then repeat. Did that 8 or 9 times and it finally gave way. Got the nut backed off and adjusted it down till I got some minor resistance (you’ll feel it) then tightened the nut back down.

Made a huge difference! The VX is super responsive now. No more floating left and right that was more like herding the truck down the road rather than driving it.

[Thelgord]

So my A/C is fixed. Whenever I would turn it on it would make the most gawd awful grinding noise accompanied by a nice rythmic clicking noise that sounded like someone had a hammer inside the pump. However, I have doing been a ton of electrical work on the VX. New Alternator, new battery, removing a small mountain of wires that literally went nowhere under the dash (I think they may have been for an aftermarket amp/sound system that is no longer there), and of course cleaning up all of the OEM wiring and cleaning every connection I can find to include the ground points.

Well, working night shift I havn’t had much need for it, until this morning. I had to be out and about durring the day, and an Ebony VX with leather gets really warm. I took a chance and turned on the A/C. Silence. AT first I wasn’t even sure it was working, then the air from the vents got really cold. Drove it around all morning and checked it over where I got home. It now works great!

The issues was an electrical issue I guess. I am assuming something I was working on, probably a ground or 12 some place, was the issue. But in any case, I have great A/C! Finally! LOL!

[Thelgord]

Yea! The site is back up! Lots of updates.

Changed out even more engine parts with more to go this weekend. IAC, TPS, every vacuum line, FPR, Throttle Body Gasket, Instake Gaskets (there are three).

Also order and received new suspension for the VX. Old Man Emu shocks and springs. Part numbers for the VX are:

Coil Spring: 2912
Front Shocks: 60074
Rear Shocks: 60031

Coil spring 2913 can also be use and they offer a 1/2” less lift in the rear while giving a much firmer ride and increased load capacity. I chose 2912 for the softer ride as theVX has limited cargo space anyway.

I have mocked up a faux tow hitch. I need to buy two pieces (an 8” hitch extension and a 4”x2”x3/16” (36” long) piece of angle, and some grade 8 hardware) for a total of ~$50 to make a hidden receiver hitch. I have the welding the welding equipment. I just need to the time. With everything else I am doing to just to keep the VX going, this is a low priority for now, but not a back burner item just yet.

Started to mock-up a cardboard winch mount / bumper, but I really need to start over as I am not likening the look of my first design. As with the hitch, the is a low priority item for now.

Sanded and primed my plastic hood insert. Still looks like crap, but looks WAY better than it did.

Sanded and repainted my windshield wiper arms. Looks sooooo much better now.

Replaced both “map light” bulbs.

I think that’s about all for now. The down side to the site going down is my build log is here. So when the site goes down I really don’t have a backup. Oh well, moving on! LOL!

[Thelgord]

Pulled an all-nighter getting my suspension complete. The OEM shocks fell down. On each one, I unbolted the top bolts first and they literally fell down. I am not sure they are worth saving, but I will keep them for now.

Before the new shocks and springs:
Font Left - 32 1/2”
Front Right - 32 3/4”
Rear - 32 5/8”

After the lift:
Front: 34 15/16”
Rear: 35 3/4”

Adjusting the torsion bars is part science, part art. I really wanted the front to be an even 35”. But this was close enough, and after being up all night getting it done, it was good enough for me. ;) The heights are measures along the centerline of each tire from the ground to the fender, which I am fairly certain is normal, but just in case ;)

Got everything done, and now the driver window won’t go all the way. Sighhhhh ... it never ends ...

Anyway, I am beat. I am off to bed.

[Thelgord]

Finally got the Fuel Pressure Regulator (the one on the back of the fuel rail) replaced. Idle has gone from 1800-2000 RPM to 1200 RMP and around 980 RPM when in gear, but not moving. Removing the throttle body now for a cleaning and new gasket.

[Thelgord]

Got the intake and throttle body gasket changed out. Also cleaned out the EGR tubes. The one inside the instake was completely closed off with carbon gunk. A lot of work, but no change to the idle speed. I guess this is were the VX wants to idle at. I am done working on that issue. An engine replacement is starting ot sound good, but this one still has some life left, so we will see.

[Thelgord]

Fixed the drivers window! Well, mostly. It goes up and down fairly smooth now, but I really need to change out the track mounting bolts for longer ones and align the lift track. New window motor (which it didn’t need), a lot of grease and spreading the front guild track ended up working the best. I also loosened the two bolts for the lower rear track and pulling it in a bit tighter. Seemed to help more than a little.

[Thelgord]

Got new tires! Firestone Destination A/T, 265/70/16 (Roughly 31”). Also got an alignment done and the steering wheel is strait again! This build has been one challenge after another, but, all in all it is going well.

[ipd]

Ttiwwop

[Thelgord]

Ttiwwop

I have no idea what that is! LOL!

Anyway, I got a new intake manifold gasket installed. Also replaced a bolt for the clamp for the pipe that connects to the engine side of the MAF. Still have the high idle issue. This VX vexes me.

After searching the forum, and asking on the FB page, apparently they is a plug for the power steering that can cause this same issue. When it gets light outside I will try unplugging it and see what happens. If that doesn’t work, I am out of ideas. I have already dropped a bit more than $500 into this motor and it still isn’t right. It is very frustrating to say the least.

Oh, pro tip. The long bolts for the intake manifold? No one carries them. I snapped one durring reassembly. Yes I was using a torque wrench, and no I didn’t over torque it. I am thinking the bolt had been over torqued before and just chose now to fail. Anyway, it was 4:30pm and I was at the last autop parts store that may have had one, they didn’t. Not having my tools in my wife’s car, I purchased a cheap 12mm wrench and flew to my local pull-a-part, which is a twenty minute drive for me. I got there just before they closed and managed to get 4 new bolts from one of the 3 troopers they had in the yard.

I then re-disassembled the intake, and had just enough of the old bolt to get vise grips on the tip, though not very well. Once I got the bolt loose, I just backed it out by hand. I am just glad there was enough of the stud showing to get at it. I suppos I could have welded a nut to the end of the stud if nothing else, but that was something I really wasn’t looking forward to doing. Anyway, I got it, reassembled. The new bolts worked perfectly.

And all that work for nothing. I am starting to think this VX just likes attention and that’s why it so troublesome. My wife calls it my second wife, I call it basket case, but at some point I suppose I am going to have to name the damn thing. Maybe that’s the issue. Without a name, it doesn’t feel welcome yet? LOL!

[Thelgord]

Fixed the high idle issue! Yay!

Apparently there is a “bump switch” on the power steering pump that, when bad, can cause this exact issue. I unplugged it, after a lot of digging (it is buried in there). Started the engine and now it idles around 840RPM, with is ok considering it is just above 40f outside at the moment. Yay! All of that work, which probably had to be done anyway, seems to have paid off. Finally!

Of course, now I need to sort out the power steering pump aand that switch. That can wait, for now....

[Thelgord]

Got a set of OEM Yakima Roof bars from a nice gentleman on FB in the mail today. Went on without a hitch! They look awesome! Now I just need to decide between basket or flat rack for the roof....hmmm....

[Thelgord]

A minor update for today. I tracked down the squeal and excess lifter tap, I need yet another upper intake gasket. The new one failed after only three days. So yet again, I need to take apart the top half of the motor. Yay me.

[Thelgord]

Another update.

1) Got the new intake manifold gasket from RockAuto. Much thicker than the one from my local auto parts store. I talked to a guy at work and he said the 3.5L needs a thicker gasket (upper) than the 3.2 and I probably got the one for the 3.2 from the auto parts store. Hopefully, this one won’t blow out after three days of use like the thin one did. I will be installing the gasket tonight.

2) Since I have an iPhone 8, while at WalMart I punched a window mount for my phone that also does wireless charging. I am surprised that it actually works, but it really does. I will also have to find a spont to mount this.

3) While at WalMart, and the reason I went there, I got the Reese roof basket. It is a perfect fit for the cross bars. I know the load rating is only 125 pounds, but the cross bars say only 110 and i am not sure if that each or combined. Either way, the plastic towers are nearing 20 years old and I don’t wan’t to overload them. Limiting my roof cargo weight to 100-125 pounds i think is a safe bet. I have a roof rack that I made for a Tacoma I used to have that is heavy duty steel. I could, and have, put over 500 pounds on that rack with no deflection, but it is also 85 pounds by itself. With the limitations of the cross bars, that wouldn’t leave much weight for cargo. This Reese basket is going to work well I think.

Time to go tear the engine apart, again.... LOL!

[Thelgord]

Got the new intake gasket in, and it is finally running right! Yay! No more air leaks, the computer is showing my MPG increasing from ~14 to 16.1 so far, and the weird lifter tap has gone away. Crazy thing.

[Thelgord]

Updates!

1) Ordered and received a Uniden PRO520XL CB Radio (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004VXNI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Thought about mounting it in the ashtray slot, and it does fit, though it sticks out quite a ways. Looking for a better location before doing the install.

2) I ordered the Curt Trailer Hitch (https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Curt/13556.html?feed=npn&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItqK6l4fC1wIVj7rACh2DOgfYEAQYASAB EgLe4vD_BwE) from etrailer.com. It should be here in a 1 or 2 weeks. I went with the Curt Hitch over making my own hidden hitch because of safety concerns. Using the Curt I know I will get 3500 capacity, which is higher than what the VX rated for, and I can pull a trailer safely. The only way to do a load test on a hidden hitch would be built it, then pull it until it breaks, and that may break the VX. From a safety standpoint, this really is the way to go.

I still need to finish fixing the window travel on both doors, and I have swapped out one window motor (driver), but I am still having issues with the window tilting forward on the way up. With it being super cold out lately, I am not in any hurry to work on it anyway. I have the motor for the passenger side as well, but I don’t want to start that until I get the drivers window sorted.

The build continues...

[ipd]

CB inside the center console?

I have a Curt on mine. With the Super-Bumper attached to it, it's not as "clean looking" perhaps, but I feel a lot better about the potential of getting rear ended, and--as Jo will attest to--they make a great skid plate.

[Thelgord]

CB inside the center console?


It’s an idea. I will explore it and see what I can come up with. Thanks!

[Thelgord]

Started to scout mounting locations for my CB antenna.

I have 3’ Fire Stick (tunable) that I really like that I took off of my Tacoma before I sold it. I suppose I could switch to a wire whip antenna, but I already have a good antenna that is proven to work. I don’t want to mount it on the roof because I have covered parking and I like parking under it. Post-Lift even a hood/fender mount would make it just a few inches to tall. So far, the best location seems to be to bolt a mount plate to the top of the opening for the license plate. To keep the antenna cable from blocking view of the plate, I will need to put it as far as I can to one side. Not an issue really, although I do think I will need to stop by a truck stop and pick up a 90 degree adapater to make it a cleaner install and to help hide the cable.

Of course, the real trick is how to run the antenna cable through the door without cutting massive holes. I may end up being forced to cut the connector from one end, run the cable, then attach a new connector. Not difficult to do, but you need to take your time to do it right.

Now that I know where the antenna is going to be, it is time to head back out to the VX to see if I can find a cozy spot for the CB itself.

[Thelgord]

Granted I am working with just the dome light, so I will need to look again when it is light outside, but I have two possible locations for mounting the CB radio.

1) Just to the right of the steering column. Not ideal as I worry about my legs bumping it, but there seems to be enough room.

2) Mounted vertically next to the shifter. This, so far anyway, is my preferred choice. I could mount it in the passenger side as well, but I worry that passengers may not be used to the idea of items mounted near their legs and may bump it.

The radio is to long to mount in the ash tray slot or the cubby in the center console. Of course, there is the slot at the bottom of the dash where the OEM CD changer used to be, but I am saving that for a switch bank (I have more plans :yesy: ). So unless I can find a better spot these two are the prime candidates. I did consider mounting it on top of the dash in the center, and would work well, but I really don’t want to drill holes in it. Unless I can find a way to secure it without drilling holes, that spot is out.

[MSHardeman]

I have a CB that I only use when I go to Moab so I wanted to install it so it could be removed and you would never know that it was there. I ended up mounting mine on the passenger side of the center console using the stock screw holes that hold the center console in. I fabricated a mount for the mic that I install on the dash on the right side of the steering wheel, again using stock screw holes that hold the dash on. It all works out very well. I have pictures in my gallery, but I can't seem to link them to this post.

I mounted my antennae to my roof rack and then ran the cable in through the back door by just shutting the door on it. The weather stripping deforms enough so the cable doesn't get pinched. Once the cable is inside I ran it behind the interior panels in the cargo area to just behind the passenger door. From there it runs under the carpet under the passenger seat and then under the carpet along the trans tunnel where it daylights behind the center console and plugs into the back of the CB. When the CB is out of the car I coil the cable up behind the center console at the front and behind the cargo area interior panel so you don't see anything.

That might be 1,000 words, but pictures would sure help.

I have seen a couple of VXers mount their CB antennae's to their back doors using this mount: https://www.rightchannelradios.com/products/firestik-ngp-antenna-side-mount-kit-right-channel-radios-1 If you are squeamish about drilling through you cladding or sheet metal this might not be the best option for you. I'm sure that I could find some pictures for you, but apparently I wouldn't be able to link them here anyway.

[Thelgord]

I ordered this: https://www.amazon.com/Firestik-MKM2-Molded-Fire-Flex-W-Lugs/dp/B007W7SGBY

It’s a side mount by Firestik that I will placing the rear door. Now if I could just figure out the best spot for the CB LOL!

[Thelgord]

I have a CB that I only use when I go to Moab so I wanted to install it so it could be removed and you would never know that it was there. I ended up mounting mine on the passenger side of the center console using the stock screw holes that hold the center console in. I fabricated a mount for the mic that I install on the dash on the right side of the steering wheel, again using stock screw holes that hold the dash on. It all works out very well. I have pictures in my gallery, but I can't seem to link them to this post.

I mounted my antennae to my roof rack and then ran the cable in through the back door by just shutting the door on it. The weather stripping deforms enough so the cable doesn't get pinched. Once the cable is inside I ran it behind the interior panels in the cargo area to just behind the passenger door. From there it runs under the carpet under the passenger seat and then under the carpet along the trans tunnel where it daylights behind the center console and plugs into the back of the CB. When the CB is out of the car I coil the cable up behind the center console at the front and behind the cargo area interior panel so you don't see anything.

That might be 1,000 words, but pictures would sure help.

I have seen a couple of VXers mount their CB antennae's to their back doors using this mount: https://www.rightchannelradios.com/products/firestik-ngp-antenna-side-mount-kit-right-channel-radios-1 If you are squeamish about drilling through you cladding or sheet metal this might not be the best option for you. I'm sure that I could find some pictures for you, but apparently I wouldn't be able to link them here anyway.

I just ordered that mount! LOL! Sorry, I didn’t see that you had posted before I typed out my reply!

[MSHardeman]

"Great minds think alike" as they say.

If you are interested I can try to get some pictures of my CB install on the passenger side of the center console posted up here. They way you can rule that location out if it doesn't aesthetically work for you.

[Thelgord]

No rush, the mount wont be here until the around 27th, but I would appreciate it.

[Thelgord]

Yay! My FireStik side mount arrived today! I will try to get the CB and antenna installed this weekend. I do have a 24 hour shift on Friday :( but Saturday or Sunday should be good.

[Thelgord]

Yay! Another small victory in the build. My Curt Hitch has finally shipped and should be here by Friday. I am going to have one busy weekend. LOL!

[Thelgord]

Completed my CB Radio install. Yay! Another thing off the list. No pictures yet, it got dark before I finished. I will get some hopefully tomorrow.

[Thelgord]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/84bvm2nuz2k63lb/Photo%20Nov%2024%2C%2010%2012%2039.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/tvvwhm789z4jttk/Photo%20Nov%2024%2C%2010%2012%2048.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/avyqopt3j7jb9wu/Photo%20Nov%2024%2C%2010%2013%2012.jpg?raw=1

To mount an antenna here takes someone who is very brave, or very stupid. This is what I get for my lack of planning. Granted, I love the location. The fit is in perfection (3mm gap from mount to taillight). To get it done? A nightmare.

Ok, I’m being a little melodramatic. But it is very difficult to do. First, the top bolt must be shortened so that is just a bit shorter than the bottom bolt. Next, the plastic liner for the bolt cannot be used. Yeah, the one that keeps the metal that carriers the transmission from touching any other metal? Can’t use it. It’s to thick. You will need to make one that is much much thinner. I used a drinking straw from a sports bottle and electrical tape. You will also need skinny fingers. Seriously. The nut for the top bolt is almost to thick to fit.

After 6 hours of fighting (yes, Vixen demanded blood), and working though each of the challenges as they presented themselves, it is done, and it is nearly perfect.

I get a lot of antenna wobble from the spring so I may take that off. And while the radio is wired up, and the antenna is tuned, I still need to actually mount the radio. Just two more screws, but I still need to do it.

[89Vette]

That's a pretty good spot. I gotta admit I didn't think people even used CBs any more. I guess it's still about the only method to OPENLY communicate on the open road though.

Plus, I worked with a guy that's president of the shortwave radio club in Lawrence KS. So I SHOULD know people are still using "over-the-air" communications.

:thumbup:

[Thelgord]

Hahaha now that’s funny ;)

Seriously though, I use it when traveling long distance and most jeeps on the trail have at least 2 in any group you find. I haven’t decided on handheld or vehicle mount for the GMRS/FRS setup yet.

[89Vette]

Hahaha now that’s funny ;)

Seriously though, I use it when traveling long distance and most jeeps on the trail have at least 2 in any group you find. I haven’t decided on handheld or vehicle mount for the GMRS/FRS setup yet.

Good idea.... Come back Rock-Reticulator...got your back...Wait! Whaaaaa Look out for the GIANT BOULDER!!!!

Or....

HEY! Little Big Rocker.... Am I the only one that left my beer cooler back in the hotel room?

[Thelgord]

That’s a big ten four ... although I did find a free cooler back there! ;)

[Thelgord]

Ok, I have to cut myself off from buying stuff for a while. I still have to finish the driver window (realign the track). Replace the passenger window motor. Install my Curt Hitch. Install trailer wiring. Finish the mounting of my CB. And now? Now I made the mistake of going to Harbor Freight. I got the BadLands 12,000 pound winch for $200 on a close out sale. I also picked up the mount plate so I can use it to build my winch mount/crash bumper.

No more buying stuff until I get all of this installed! LOL!


Almost forgot about the external tire carrier that I got to put on the rear door. Still need proper hardware and another 16” rim.

[Thelgord]

Spent yesterday doing a lot of the non-exciting stuff, cleaning up more of the electrical work. I have found more than few wires that run to ground (a simple screw through the floor) than I don't know what to do with. Well, I do, I remove them. I should have said I have no idea what the intent of the wire was. I remove the screws, patch the wholes ot prevent rust, toss the wire out. They are not connected to anything, they are just there.

I also just discovered that the cruise control doesn’t work. So that will need to be diagnosed as well.

And finally I think I may have a broken top radiator mount/clip/whatever thing. So there is that.

[ipd]

hope you treated the area around where you drilled for the antenna, so that it won't rust with rain.

[Thelgord]

Of course

[sm0ke3T1947]

Looks real good. Great spot for the CB antenna.

[Thelgord]

I have spent the better part of a month just enjoying the VX. Yeah I know, not much work getting done, but it is just so much fun to drive. Toady, the ABS light came on. Damn it...

[89Vette]

I assume you've seen the thread/links to the ebay rebuilder? .... if it's the controller vs a wheel sensor. Good news is I've seen wheel sensors coming down. They used to be something stupid like $400 or more each. Maybe it was $600? IDK. Now I think they are getting down in the $100-$200 range?

FWIW, I've run w/o working ABS for nearly 5yrs now. Now so scary when I grew up with a generation of cars that never had it.

[Thelgord]

No, I actually haven’t seen that thread yet. The issue is recent enough I havn’t started to diagnose it yet. It seems to come and go, so I am thinking most likely a sensor, but I really wont know until I start to dig into it. Thanks for the info!

[89Vette]

See if these threads help....

http://www.vehicross.info/showthread.php/14200-question-and-poll-regarding-abs-module?highlight=ABS+brake+module

http://www.vehicross.info/showthread.php/27626-Drives-fine-without-ABS-module?highlight=ABS+brake+module

http://www.vehicross.info/showthread.php/27297-ABS-Pump-Module?highlight=ABS+brake+module

[Thelgord]

Took off my old crash bumper today:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wkfw0mrgmfx2ria/Photo%20Dec%2026%2C%2012%2035%2017%20PM.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xcwrjfndd9fgl5c/Photo%20Dec%2026%2C%2012%2035%2024%20PM.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/82w00oso3qxka2m/Photo%20Dec%2026%2C%2012%2046%2046%20PM.jpg?raw=1

I created two frame mounts, mostly. My drill took a dump so I had to stop to get a new one. I also have a “universal” winch plate from harbor freight. Tomorrow I will complete the mounts and then I need to find a way to get the winch plate to the mounts.

[ipd]

looks like a lot of crash bars that I've seen. If mine ever gives out, I'd really like to do something like Jo has & just mount a rock bumper to the stock crashbar location in lieu of a front bumper.

[Thelgord]

If I can find a good deal on some plate steel I will keep welding ;)

[89Vette]

Or....Look here (http://www.vehicross.info/showthread.php/22501-New-Front-Bumper) if you want another idea.

[Thelgord]

To mount the winch plate I needed a length of 2x2x1/4” tubing. I really only needed a bit less than 5 feet worth. However, all the steel suppliers only sold it in 20 foot lengths. Now I have four, 5 foot length of steel tube. I am sure I can find a use for the rest, but still.

If I save the other 3 pieces for other projects (I already have some ideas) then the single piece was just over $25. Not to bad of a deal to make a winch mount. Not counting replacing my drill, I am so far around $75 into this mount. Or $150 if you count the total price of the steel plus winch plate. Either way not a bad deal. Now to go see if I can finish the frame mounts before the sun goes down.

Why does shopping taking so much time? LOL!

[89Vette]

Next time you need a shorter length of pipe, try a local welding shop. Mine will sell by the foot -- if they have it. FWIW, there's a place in Kansas City called "Metal by the foot" that also sells by the foot. (This is where I went when the local metal yard also wanted to sell a 20ft piece of plate steel for my hitch project.)

[Thelgord]

Thanks! On the plus side, I can use the remaining three pieces for a rock slider project.

The good news the new drill worked great! Got the frame attachments bolted up just as it was getting dark. Now all I need to do is mark for cuts on one of the pieces of tubing and get that welded up so I can mount the winch plate. Then put it all back together.

I suppose I should find a way to reattach the “wing” tubes to the new mounts to cover the tires. Or not ...

[Thelgord]

Been a busy couple of days to close out the new year. First I completed fabrication of the winch mount:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wq3dmxviecb1g6v/Photo%20Dec%2031%2C%2012%2045%2057%20PM.jpg?raw=1

Then I had to put all back together. Much cutting of the cladding ensued...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9uuyrwl1prt4gjc/Photo%20Dec%2031%2C%204%2027%2044%20PM.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/18rh1ryhtq6t8qa/Photo%20Dec%2031%2C%204%2036%2018%20PM.jpg?raw=1

I still need to find a place to put the control box and get everything wired up. There is also no fair lead installed yet because I have synthetic line and a hawse fair lead arriving Tuesday to replace the steel cable.

The real down side (but maybe not) was buying 20 feet 2x2x1/4 steel tube to make the winch mount. I only ended up using around 20 inches, but the steel suppliers here make you buy 20 feet at a time. Of course now I have steel for rock sliders ;) or some other project I may yet get into.

This entire project should be called “built by Harbor Freight”. Badlands (ie: Harbor Freight) 12,000 pound winch. BadLands universal winch plate. Chicago Electric (also Harbor Freight) 170 Amp mig welder to stick everything together. Drill Master (also Harbor Freight) 4 1/2 inch angle grinder with cutting cutting disks. Even the ratchet, breaker bar, and sockets used came from from Harbor Freight.

So what did all of this cost?

Angle grinder: $10 with coupon.
Welder: $150 with coupon.
Hand Tools: Around $60 for everything.
Winch Plate: $50 (I didn’t have a coupon)
Winch: $200 (open box special)
Synthetic Line and Fair Lead: $130
Steel Tube: $110 for 20 feet, but since I used then than 2 feet you could say closer to $11 as I intend to use the rest for other projects anyway.

So total spent: $650 (or $551 depending how you want to calculate the steel cost).

Not a terrible price for a 12,000 pound winch and mount. Of course this doesn’t count the man hours spend fabricating all of this. I am very happy with it so far. However, there is one rather glaring issue I didn’t count on, the winch’s clutch lever is behind the cladding. I may be able to squeeze my hand through the opening, but I would like easier access. This also why I didn’t put “wings” on the winch plate to go over the wheels the way the crash bumper did. I havn’t decided yet if I am just going to buy a sheet of plate steel and build this out to a full bumper. It is likely that I will. I had so much fun building this winch mount that I was actually sad when it was time to put the welder away.

Anyway, that was how I spent the last two days.

I hope everyone has a happy new year! ;party: ;party: ;party: ;party: ;party:

[Thelgord]

Got the winch wired up and pulled the steel cable to be ready when my synthetic line arrives.

[eternal21]

Looking good! From your pics, I can't really tell where you welded, but I put 2 upside down L brackets under the winch plate and welded them to the either end of the end of the frame, and then to the bottom of the winch plate. In your picture, where the 2 little circles are located at the end of the square frame tubing in your pic below.

Additionally, for the rusty bolts, I'd highly recommend https://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Rust-Free-Jug-gallon/dp/B000FVWA66/ and
https://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B0002Q9F26/ They both come in a variety of sizes.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/82w00oso3qxka2m/Photo%20Dec%2026%2C%2012%2046%2046%20PM.jpg?raw=1

[Thelgord]

I made frame mounts from c-channel, then welded 2x2x1/4 tube to the mounts offset and notched to raise them 3/4” above the mounts I made. Very very tight fit.

[Thelgord]

It’s been damn cold here, but I finally got my fair lead and synthetic line installed on the winch! Yay!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/p1lkuk99piuwntc/Photo%20Jan%2003%2C%204%2050%2059%20PM.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/hvrql8ao8cpj40o/Photo%20Jan%2003%2C%204%2050%2008%20PM.jpg?raw=1

This project is going great!

[ipd]

You're doing all this in a carport? Yikes. Georgia feels like Indiana this week.

[Thelgord]

Well, yeah, and my back yard. The welder is in the back yard, so all fab work gets done there. Work that just uses hand tools I just do in the car port. But yeah, it’s all outside. When I installed the solenoid and synthetic rope I would work for 30 minutes, then go inside for 10 minutes. It was around 20-25 all day. This weekend I hoping to get my Curt Hitch installed, and yes, it will probably be done in the driveway. ;)

[ipd]

Well if you want to do it in a "slightly" warmer place, I can offer my garage. It's not heated...but we could always toss a space heater in there--and it cuts down on the wind chill.

I refuse to live in a house without a garage. #first_world_problems

[Thelgord]

Hahaha

I wanted a garage. The wife wanted a pool. She won this round. Next house I am definitely getting a garage.

[Thelgord]

Looking at the weather forecast, it is supposed to warm up significantly next weekend so I will wait until then to do more work on the VX.

[Thelgord]

Yay! I got my Curt Hitch installed today!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2pxl0wrqpkoi3fb/Photo%20Jan%2013%2C%205%2051%2034%20PM.jpg?raw=1

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7f4xr6wysxykmht/Photo%20Jan%2013%2C%205%2051%2057%20PM.jpg?raw=1

As with most things, this did not go as smoothly as I had hoped. It was a fight to the bitter end, but I did it! So glad to get that thing out of the laundry room, my wife was getting worried I would never put it on. No light connector yet, but the hard part is over. Yay!

[ipd]

Yep. Looks like mine. Now get a superbumper. :)

p.s.

Some Mother's Back-to-Black and 15-30 minutes will make that cladding look amazing, btw. It lasts several months. Keeps it looking nice and fresh until you find something better.

[Thelgord]

Superbumper?

[ipd]

http://superbumper.com/faqs/

It's what I have on mine. Kat & Jo convinced me that something on the back was a good idea. And frankly, if a VX gets rear ended, it's going to be totaled--that's a repair nobody wants to touch. So I have protection from frame damage, whiplash, and it may actually keep people from tailgating as close...i don't honestly know!

I actually don't see the original Superbumper (that I have) but they do have the spare bumper which does the same thing, minus the mount for a receiver hitch. Lifetime Warranty; it gets destroyed in an accident, you send it back with a copy of the police report & they ship you a new one free.

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/inperfectdarkness/P1020484_zps60yxosqe.jpg

[Thelgord]

I’ll keep it in mind.

[Thelgord]

It was a nice day today. I would have rather been out driving the VX, but I decided to work on it instead. This time I was attempting to fix the passenger side window. It did have a bad motor so I changed that easily enough. However, I discovered I also have the tilt issue. Until I fix that, the window will have to stay up. Otherwise I may not get it closed again.

Spent the rest of the day working on the wife’s Kia. Just general service, but needed to be done.

[Thelgord]

The VX continues to vex me. With all of the issues I am currently looking to sort out, the transmission has reared its head. For the third time since fixing it, (a few months ago) it has slipped out of gear when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. I am thinking the solenoid. Since I have to drop the pan to get to them, I think I will modify the pan and a universal transmission dip stick to the pan as well. Hopefully I can get to this soon.

[Thelgord]

So after a lot of googling, and even asking around on the FB page, I finally found this thread. (http://www.vehicross.info/showthread.php/23124-Transmission-Shifting-issue-need-help-please)

The problems are exactly what mine transmission is currently doing. The last page has a link to parts, and really I can’t get them cheaper. Not even on rock auto. It’s called a Master Solenoid Kit (http://www.electricaladvantage.net/4l30emastersolenoidkit90-99oem.aspx) and is only $149.

I will get that on order today. I also have a 4 day weekend coming up for Presidents Day, which will give me the time to get it done. The things we do for love ... LOL!

[Thelgord]

After mor googling, I have found 4 of the 5 solenoids easy to get to. #5 however looks to be a pain. It is the torque converter lockup solenoid, and it is actually inside the transmission, not just behind a pan.

From what I could find out you need to drop a plate just behind the pan. But you need to be careful because of parts that literally balance as you drop the plate. You need to keep these lined up so you know how to put it back together again. Also there is a gasket for this lower plate that I do not know the name of.

This should be fun!

[Thelgord]

The VX is really starting to piss me off. The EGR valve issue has returned. New valve, removed intake and cleaned everything, and it is idling rough as hell. Fml ...

[Thelgord]

After calming down I stopped by a Jeep/Off-road shop today to see about an complete engine rebuild. They are going to get back with me sometime tomorrow with a quote. The nice thing is that the guy knows Isuzu and has a trooper at the shop waiting for a transmission replacement. If the price is right I will most likely pull the trigger on this.

[89Vette]

Seems like a pretty big leap to engine rebuild...especially after the solonoid thing. Did you mean trans rebuild? Rough idling can be one of several things without warranting a rebuild. First few things off the top of my head would be intake gasket, FPR, plugs, vacuum leak (especially after r/r the intake), and O2 sensor.

[Thelgord]

Exactly why I am looking for a rebuild. I am tired of fixing the same issues repeatedly. The way I see it, the engine made it 170,000 miles and now it is one problem after another. The EGR code is back, despite a new EGR valve, new intake gasket, new vacuums lines, new throttle body gasket, and a lot more. I did an oil change around 2000 miles ago and the oil is already back sludge, which is probably causing the rough idle by clogging the oil passages. In order to clean all of that out properly I will need to pull the heads, so why not just rebuild it and hot tank the block at this point? I can chase small fixes forever or I can just fix it right.

For the transmission, my solenoids came in today and I will try that before having the transmission rebuilt. Even if it works though, I will probably have it and the transfer case rebuilt at some point anyway.

All this may be overkill, but I need this Vehicross to be reliable as I plan on taking it to some very remote places. I can’t do that if new issues keep cropping up before I get the current ones under control.

At some point I will also need to get the ABS module rebuilt/replaced as well.

I have already swapped the entire suspension, rebuilt all of the brake calipers and new pads, rebuilt or replaced the entire front end except gears, and those are just the large items. This VX was abused and not cared for at all. I didn’t realize the level of neglect this truck had been through when I purchased it. But, as they say, in for a penny in for a pound.

[ipd]

Yeah, I'd wager that the PM was completely neglected. I HIGHLY recommend Shell Rotella T6 full synethetic for oil. The reason is because diesel oils do not have the same restrictions on cleaning agents that "regular" oils do--so their cleaning agents will last longer between oil changes. For an engine that has been neglected, those cleaning agents may be entirely consumed in the first 1000 miles--at least with a regular oil. I change mine religiously at 3,000; have done it for several vehicles now--and it works great. I don't buy the hype about longer change intervals.

P.S.
The ONE thing I'd verify if they do a rebuild on your engine--is the oil squirters & passageways. There's a reason OEM engines tend to burn oil--and I can state factually that my own engine does not. I'm not sure if it's a rebuild--but I wouldn't be surprised.

p.p.s.
Unfortunately, you're also seeing one of the issues I've seen some of my car buddies run into by trying to buy on the cheap end of the market. That Corvette that is selling for 5 grand less than any other comparable model--is probably beat to tar. Fortunately, you're a handyman & can address problems yourself. There are many who aren't nearly as skilled--and they quickly realize that buying on the cheap end of the spectrum--in order to afford a vehicle they probably shouldn't afford in the first place--is a losing proposition. Kind of like how thinking you're approved for a $200,000 mortgage doesn't mean that you can or should AFFORD said mortgage.

Best of luck to you! Keep us informed.

[Thelgord]

I think I may have a warped intake manifold. I started the engine today and I have an audible air leak at the same location I have had three times. Three gaskets. Three times taking it apart and putting it back together again. Same location. The latest gasket was the most heavy duty I could find. Rubber coated steel and much thicker than the previous ones.

I could beat the previous owner with his own severed arm. Gahhhhh!

[89Vette]

Yup....An intake leak would cause your issue. Without trying to be Debbie Downer, it COULD also be the corresponding surface that's warped. Did you "glue" the intake gasket on....or install dry? There are some VERY good sealants that might solve the issue. On a SBC, most mechanics DO use sealant on the intake....though it doesn't necessarily call for it.

Back in the 80's, I had a Toyota with a persistent intake problem. I took it apart and redid the intake gasket about 6 times. Got where I could do it in 1/2hr. It would last 3-6 weeks before leaking each time. At the time, the internet didn't exist. I gave up and sold it without knowing all my options. I would suggest you have an advantage...since no coolant/oil is running through VX intakes. Those fluids add to the challenge for maintaining a long-term seal....with liquid/rubber sealant. If you try a sealant, make sure you pick one rated for gasoline. I recommend you Google "intake manifold sealant" to find the most current sealants. If you haven't tried that route yet, do so.

One other thing you could do is take the intake to a machine shop and have them check it for "flatness". In Kansas City, there's a cylinder-head service/shop that has the equipment to "plane" it back straight. If you consider it, look for a similiar "machine shop/cylinder-head service" near you.

[Thelgord]

Installed it dry. I could probably do it again in a couple of hours with some sealant. The real question is do I really want to?

Who am I kidding. Of course I am going to.

Damn it.

[89Vette]

While it's off, take it in to be checked....OR... put something long, metal, & straight on the surface to see if you can shove a feeler gauge underneath. (IOW, perform your own check). Might as well to make sure.

[Thelgord]

I finally broke down and put it in a shop. I should find out later today what the cost is going to be. Having the entire engine gone through to include new timing belt and full service while they are in there. Once that is all done I can work on the transmission shift solenoids.

[Thelgord]

I miss my VX ...

[Thelgord]

Yay! The shop called. Turns out it wasn’t anything major, except to my wallet. $400 for a complete engine checkup just to find out that my EGR valve self destructed without throwing a single code or CEL. I should be able to pick it up later today. I thought about just picking it up and doing the work myself, my this guy has been great and throwing a local mechanic some business, especially on me that is willing to work on a VX, is OK with me.

[89Vette]

$400 for a complete engine checkup? What did they do?

[Thelgord]

Aside from new EGR valve, which was a bit over $120 just for the part, they also did a vacuum pressure test, compression test, full service on the engine, checked the master cylinder pressure, and checked every gasket for leaks. Only other “issue” found was where I unplugged the wire for the power steering pump to stop the high idle (bad sensor), but the pump itself checked out fine. I still have the intermittent ABS light, but I told them not to worry about that yet.

I was also quoted $800 for a new timing belt and water pump, but that will have to wait as well. I dumped too much money too fast into this VX and now I need to pay down some credit cards before I start again.

[89Vette]

Sounds reasonable. At least you have the peace of mind it doesn't need a complete rebuild! Did they explain how the EGR valve cause the symptoms reported earlier? Was the valve itself leaking?

[Thelgord]

Yeah. The valve body separated from the plastic part while leaving the valve closed without throwing a CEL.

[Thelgord]

An update.

I got Izzy (have no idea why that name has stuck, but it did) back from the mechanic. Ran great, for a day. Then a CEL. EGR Flow Insufficient. Did the Seafoam treatment, and so far no more CEL or codes and it seems to be running great. I wonder how long before I will have to do it again? At least it is an easy thing to do, about a half hour total.

Of course, the downside to all of this is money. I have dropped around $7000 total so far into it. 99% of that is just getting it runnng reliably. $7k over 8 months is still less than a grand a month, but is still more than I was putting out for my Tacoma in payments. These costs really need to slow down before it kills me. And yes, I still have loads more work to do.

Gahhh!

[ipd]

It's amazing how much effort it takes to save something that has been badly neglected.

[Thelgord]

No kidding. Good news is that it’s day 3 since the egr cleaning and still no CEL.

[Thelgord]

New goal: Try to make it through the entire month of March without spending any money besides gas/oil as needed while still using it as a daily driver.

Yes, I know I have parts that need to be installed. I would just like to take a breather and not work on it for a while, unless I am forced to in order to keep it running anyway.

So ... lets see how long this works out LOL!

[Thelgord]

So the CEL came back. Code is 401, low EGR flow detected. Damn it. Looks like I am going to have to pull the exhaust tube and do a deep clean on that as well.

It is become rather tiresome to re-fix the same issues over and over again. It is almost as if this VX is trying to die...

[Thelgord]

Pulled and cleaned the “Mode Selector/Neutral Safety Switch. It shifts properly! Yay!

Shout out to @dallas121469 for this thread:

http://www.vehicross.info/showthread.php/27662-Mode-selector-switch-ADJUSTMENT

I really thought I was going to have open the transmission back up again to install new solenoids. This fixed it! Woot! :jump::jump::jump:

[Thelgord]

I think I may have to check the fluid level in the transmission, god I wish it had a dip stick...

[Thelgord]

Trying to build up the motivation to swap out the shift solenoids in the transmission. I have a set, and I probably need to change them out anyway. I am just remembering how messy it was to work on the transmission the last time I pulled the pans, and it’s cold outside, and I need to pick up new gaskets, and transmission fluid ... really wish this VX would just work...

I have also discovered the bolts for the transmission mount have sheared off, so it is just resting on top of the mount. Maybe that is why I occasionally have hard shifts ... sighhhhhh ....

[89Vette]

You are braver than me! GL!

[Thelgord]

Sadly, none of the auto parts stores around be have the pan gaskets. I will have to order them. :(

[Thelgord]

I ordered a new transmission filter and gasket for $2.98 from RockAuto! They are having a clearance on them.

I also got a the smaller gasket, and a new transmission mount. Sucks that I have to order it all online, but there it is. Total with shipping is $56.08 so not too shabby. However, now I have to put off the solenoids until next weekend at the earliest. Once the parts get here I will buy a gallon of Dextron III and I “should” be good to go. I hope ...

[Thelgord]

So my ABS Light has been coming on and going off intermittently for months. When I first got the VX I replaced all of the pads and rebuilt the calipers. Since I had the hood open anyway for round two of the Seafoam treatment to try and clean out the EGR system, I decided to check all of the fluids. My brake fluid was just under the “add” line. I filled it to about 1/4” below the “max” line and the light went off. Hopefully this fixes the issue. Hopefully.

I also reset the 401 code for “low EGR flow” while doing the cleaning. So far, it hasn’t come back. We shall see. I still have two cans of SeaFoam. Fortunately I am getting good at this process. I may have to make it part of my regular service.

Oh! And there is no sign of oil burn since I changed the oil while it was in the shop, for the EGR fix! Yay!

[Thelgord]

ABS light came back... damn it...

[Thelgord]

6 days and no CEL! So far so good.

All my parts arrived from rock auto today! Yay! If the weather holds I will be replacing the shift solenoids and transmission mount in the morning.

[Thelgord]

Today was a good day. Installed all five of the transmission solenoids along with another filter for the transmission.

Oil was deep red, but since I got the VX with dirt brown fluid I am not surprised. However, now I am getting slipping and shuttering from a dead stop. I am hoping it is just air bubbles in the system.

[simonsayz1]

Have you changed the fluid in rear differential? I had shuttering from dead stop and found out whoever changed the rear fluid last didn't add LSD (limited slip diff) additive. I changed the fluid and made sure the gear oil had it, they also sell a stand alone product. Shuttering stopped after that

[Thelgord]

Yes, I used dextron iii , per the manual.

[simonsayz1]

I'm talking about the rear differential, I thought my trans was slipping also but then read about the LSD additive.

[Thelgord]

Ohhh. No I haven’t changed that out yet. It’s on the list.

[Thelgord]

I drove it today with the transmission cold. When cold I get hard shift from 2nd -> 3rd, along with the low power in first. After a ton of googling, it seems my transmission is going into “limp mode”. This would also explain some strange numbers from the computer regarding applied horse power. Most common fix seems to be the mode selector switch. I have worked on it before to clean it. Since then I have had to re-align the shift linkage to compensate, so it is possible I didn’t get it right the first time. I am going to try and clean it out again, and see what that does. Either way, I plan on doing the diff fluid (front and back) this weekend.

[Malibu_Robert]

What do you use to measure the temperature when you check the transmission fluid level? I want to check mine but don't have a scan tool. I'm not sure what kind of a scan tool it would take...

[Thelgord]

What do you use to measure the temperature when you check the transmission fluid level? I want to check mine but don't have a scan tool. I'm not sure what kind of a scan tool it would take...

I have a Harbor Freight scan tool. I need to get the higher end one so I can read abs codes, but this works for now.

[Thelgord]

Update on transmission issues!

So as it turns out, my transmission may actually be fine. After months of extensive work, and over $500 in parts, it may not actually be the transmission. As it turns out our transmission can have the same symptoms from fuel pressure being out of spec. I have ordered a fuel pressure test kit. If the pressure is too high, it is the pressure regulator. Which would suck as I have already changed it once. If it is too low then there is a feed problem. Could be a line blockage, bad fuel filter, clogged fuel pump strainer, or a bad fuel pump.

With the symptoms in the transmission I am guessing it is a low pressure problem, but that is a guess, which is why I ordered the test kit (only $25 on amazon). It should be here tomorrow and the test should only take a few minutes.

After the amount of work I have done to this thing, I was both glad and pissed that I found this information from both Isuzu and BMW mechanics on FB. I may have been chasing a ghost for 8 months. Hopefully this test will tell me where to go to excise this gremlin.

[89Vette]

That SOUNDS like a stretch. I wouldn't consider symptoms the same -- at all. When I read about the startup/shifting problem (after sensor swap), it sounded like the torque-converter might not be full yet (air bubbles -- as you posted). Wasn't sure if running it (til warm), then shifting thru gears was the "cure"? But, I found something like that posted on the net for our trannies. (All of this done with the vehicle stationary).

FP can go pretty high w/o issue. Engines have the ability to compensate for significant variance. When FP is too high, the ECM shortenes injector pulse width (PW) to reduce the amount of fuel and bring things back "into spec". When it's too low, the engine won't run right because you've have a lean condition -- whose symptoms would present much differently in my mind. Missing/bucking engine isn't the same as a transmission with shifting issues. Someone without knowledge of either might not know -- but anyone willing to swap trans sensors themselves seems to savvy to mistake the two.

AutoZone lends FP testers -- so you really didn't need to buy anything

[Malibu_Robert]

What do you use to measure the temperature when you check the transmission fluid level? I want to check mine but don't have a scan tool. I'm not sure what kind of a scan tool it would take...

I have a Harbor Freight scan tool. I need to get the higher end one so I can read abs codes, but this works for now.

I've looked at user manuals for the following tools from Harbor Freight:

Cen-Tech Deluxe OBDII Scan Tool (Item 62119) $49.97
Zurich ZR4 OBD2 Code Reader (Item 63808) $44.99
Zurich ZR8 OBD2 Code Reader with Live Data (Item 63809) $84.99
Zurich ZR11 OBD2 Code Reader with ABS (Item 63807) $139.99
Zurich ZR13 OBD2 Code Reader with ABS/SRS/FixAssist® (Item 63806) $189.99

None of them appear to have a PIDs for transmission fluid temperature. Which one do you have?

[Thelgord]

What do you use to measure the temperature when you check the transmission fluid level? I want to check mine but don't have a scan tool. I'm not sure what kind of a scan tool it would take...

I have a Harbor Freight scan tool. I need to get the higher end one so I can read abs codes, but this works for now.

I've looked at user manuals for the following tools from Harbor Freight:

Cen-Tech Deluxe OBDII Scan Tool (Item 62119) $49.97
Zurich ZR4 OBD2 Code Reader (Item 63808) $44.99
Zurich ZR8 OBD2 Code Reader with Live Data (Item 63809) $84.99
Zurich ZR11 OBD2 Code Reader with ABS (Item 63807) $139.99
Zurich ZR13 OBD2 Code Reader with ABS/SRS/FixAssist® (Item 63806) $189.99

None of them appear to have a PIDs for transmission fluid temperature. Which one do you have?

I have no idea what I was thinking when I posted that. Sorry. I must have either been really tired, or completely brain farted the entire thing. My scan tool does not read transmission temperature. To correct what I was saying, I don’t have a way to check the temperature at the moment. I usually just take it for a 10-15 minute drive then park it while running. Not exactly a scientific method, but it what I have at the moment. I have heard there is way to use one of those touchless laser thermometers to do it, but I havn’t tried that.

[Thelgord]

That SOUNDS like a stretch. I wouldn't consider symptoms the same -- at all. When I read about the startup/shifting problem (after sensor swap), it sounded like the torque-converter might not be full yet (air bubbles -- as you posted). Wasn't sure if running it (til warm), then shifting thru gears was the "cure"? But, I found something like that posted on the net for our trannies. (All of this done with the vehicle stationary).

FP can go pretty high w/o issue. Engines have the ability to compensate for significant variance. When FP is too high, the ECM shortenes injector pulse width (PW) to reduce the amount of fuel and bring things back "into spec". When it's too low, the engine won't run right because you've have a lean condition -- whose symptoms would present much differently in my mind. Missing/bucking engine isn't the same as a transmission with shifting issues. Someone without knowledge of either might not know -- but anyone willing to swap trans sensors themselves seems to savvy to mistake the two.

AutoZone lends FP testers -- so you really didn't need to buy anything

I tested the fuel pressure, and it was indeed low. Swapped out the fuel filter and all was correct again. You are correct that I didn’t “need” to buy anything. But now I have one ;)

[Thelgord]

Update on my transmission ... woes continue ...

So I swapped out the fuel filter and took it for a test drive. It ran sooooo smooth and perfect. No hard shifting. No slipping. It was honestly the best ride I have had yet. That last right up until I tried to pull into my driveway, slight shutter, very slight, but noticeable. I took it back out again.

This time, instead of a “shutter”, it was like a dragging clutch. All RPM and no power, then it grabbed, but not all at once. More like letting out a clutch pedal. I took the VX down the highway a few miles to the local high-school parking lot. Same thing all the way. It would slip in any gear if I gave it enough gas. On the return trip I was worried I wouldn’t make it home. But I did. If this was a manual I would say it felt like I was riding with my foot resting on the clutch pedal. There was also a groaning noise from the VX while in gear. Due to wind I could only hear it at very slow speeds (like less than 10mph). It doesn’t help that wear hearing aids.

On the plus side, the fuel filter did seam to fix my hard shifting issues, and I don’t need a fuel pump. On the downside, I am ready to burn this thing down. LOL!

I am wondering if I checking the fluid levels while it is still too cold, even after a 15 minute drive? I really need a way to check this.

[Thelgord]

Yay! Best day with the VX ever!!!!

Took a friend for a drive to try to recreate the issues. Nothing! Every shift was smooth. Drove for 125 miles, even took it on the interstate, twice! I could not get the transmission to slip. No idea what finally did it, but it’s working great! Yaaaaaaaayyyyyyy!

[Malibu_Robert]

What do you use to measure the temperature when you check the transmission fluid level? I want to check mine but don't have a scan tool. I'm not sure what kind of a scan tool it would take...

I have a Harbor Freight scan tool. I need to get the higher end one so I can read abs codes, but this works for now.

I've looked at user manuals for the following tools from Harbor Freight:

Cen-Tech Deluxe OBDII Scan Tool (Item 62119) $49.97
Zurich ZR4 OBD2 Code Reader (Item 63808) $44.99
Zurich ZR8 OBD2 Code Reader with Live Data (Item 63809) $84.99
Zurich ZR11 OBD2 Code Reader with ABS (Item 63807) $139.99
Zurich ZR13 OBD2 Code Reader with ABS/SRS/FixAssist® (Item 63806) $189.99

None of them appear to have a PIDs for transmission fluid temperature. Which one do you have?

I have no idea what I was thinking when I posted that. Sorry. I must have either been really tired, or completely brain farted the entire thing. My scan tool does not read transmission temperature. To correct what I was saying, I don’t have a way to check the temperature at the moment. I usually just take it for a 10-15 minute drive then park it while running. Not exactly a scientific method, but it what I have at the moment. I have heard there is way to use one of those touchless laser thermometers to do it, but I havn’t tried that.

Thanks Chris. No worries. I'm the one who posted the question to the Facebook group. Seems like everyone just estimates the temperature. I haven't found anyone who pulled the info with a scan tool. On Planetisuzoo someone managed to get it to work on a Trooper by configuring x-gauges on the Scangauge tool. But it didn't work for them on the VX. Later on, I think I will try to do what Willy Lin suggested, add a T to the cooler line and put a sensor there.

[Thelgord]

CHnaged out the spark plugs today. Auto-lite double platinum. The old ones were ... gross. On the plus side, OBD2 says the timing advance isn’t jumping around anymore at idle. Rock solid. :)

This build has taken a lot of time, and a lot of frustration. Some days it has been like entering arena combat. It is getting there, slowly, one step at a time, but it is getting there.

[Thelgord]

With my winch currently behind the cladding and grill, there was no easy way to access to the clutch controls. Today, I cut a hole in the lower portion so I can actuate the winch clutch. It wasn’t easy, and I got done just as it was getting dark, but it’s done. Not the prettiest things, but it is functional. Fortunately I do not plan to keep the stock grill, or if I do it will be “trimmed” even more. Eventually the entire front cladding will be replaced with a plate bumper, but this works for now. It’s too dark to get a decent picture tonight, I will try to get one tomorrow.

[Thelgord]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0s1tzzrx6521xre/Photo%20Apr%2001%2C%2011%2009%2042.jpg?raw=1

The almost finished product. Still have to wait for the glue to dry then cleanup.

[Thelgord]

I ordered a thing! 2 things actually. I ordered 2, 5 packs of switch mounts from amazon. I wanted to post a link to the exact ones, but they seem to have pulled them. Maybe I got the last of them? Anyway, I will give a link to the sellers page:
https://www.amazon.com/sp?_encoding=UTF8&asin=&isAmazonFulfilled=1&isCBA=&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&orderID=113-4003080-6586614&seller=A1EQP448COWZL4&tab=&vasStoreID=

Maybe they will become available again? I really have no idea.


Here is the first pic:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/06irx61d6378xi8/Photo%20Apr%2002%2C%205%2023%2048%20PM.jpg?raw=1

And here is the second:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lqomihxtq7ln1kl/Photo%20Apr%2002%2C%205%2022%2028%20PM.jpg?raw=1

Like I said, I got 2, 5 packs. Each pack included 2 end pieces and 3 center pieces. By combining them I made a seven segment set of mount that fits perfectly in the lower dash! It is much snugger than the pics suggest. I didn’t clip them in yet because I am unsure of how easily they can be removed once they are snapped into place.

This also leaves me with two more end pieces and one center piece. I can still make another 2 or segment switch mount if I need to. I may just save them back for a bit.

I spent a very long time contemplating what to do with this portion of the dash. I couldn’t just leave a gaping hole. I considered making a custom plate that would screw into the plastic to hold four or five switches. Then I found this gem. I actually found them a few months ago. I probably over studied them, but I am glad I did all the research into these things. The fit is perfect for 7 switches, which means I really can do math from time to time ;)

[Thelgord]

Based on this thread ( http://www.vehicross.info/showthread.php/27789-Window-Regulator-Guides?highlight=Window+fix ) I tried the roller baring window fix.

First I pulled the entire regulator and cleaned it up. Even sitting out of the door without the weight of the window it had “sticky” spots. I lubed it up as best I could but some still remained. The little plastic bits are just plain worn out, lots of flopping around.

I decided to try it out anyway and went ahead with the roller. I didn’t have much hope at this point, but what the heck, I had it apart already.

No dice. The regulator is just to far gone. Sine they cost a shiny penny or two, this fix will have to wait. My driver window already mostly works, so the roller may work on that side, but the passenger window will need replacement parts.

Dang it.

[Thelgord]

So I greased both window tracks today. 3M makes a grease just for this as it turns out. Great stuff. Fixed the driver window tilt with just this. The passenger side is toast.

When I got the VX it was missing the lower window trim piece on the outside. No idea how long it had been missing. After trying the grease, and a new motor, and the roller bearing, the regulator is just done. There is a lot of rust on the cable, probably from the window trim missing for god knows how long.

Anyway, I ordered a new regulator from Isuzu parts center. Not too bad at $117 shipped.

One step at a time this VX is coming back from the brink...

[Thelgord]

Today I purchased:

1) A different condenser fan that will hopefully fit behind the winch

2) Heated, Leather, Power seats from a 2002 Jaguar X-Type. Once I figure out the wiring harness I can get it mounted up. I really don’t want to set off the airbag inside it. The leather is in great shape! I hope the rest of the seat is as well. I will be moving the mirror heat switch to the dash, then I can use the two spots in the center console for the seat heater switches.

[Thelgord]

Purchased In-Channel window rain gaurd from weather tech dot com. Should be here Friday.

https://www.weathertech.com/isuzu/1999/vehicross/side-window-deflectors/

[Thelgord]

I know this is long(ish) build thread, but if you don’t want to read all of the pages, page 1 has a chronological build/repair log.

[ipd]

Please post pics of the rain guards installed. I have the external stick-on kind on my VX. I'm not sure which style I like more. In-Channel is somewhat cleaner looking (especially on a non-black VX), but the stick-on kind give me a bit more room.

[MSHardeman]

Still can't seem to drop pictures from my gallery directly into my posts. Anyway, here are a few pictures of Vicki with the rain guards installed.

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=13319&title=ebony-27s-rule&cat=500
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14989&title=vicki-in-off-road-dress&cat=500
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=14996&title=cozuvoy-09&cat=500
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=15575&title=damn-age-to-vicki-2c-overview&cat=500

I have had these for over 10 years and they work great. They are low profile and don't get in the way at all.

[Thelgord]

....
I have had these for over 10 years and they work great. They are low profile and don't get in the way at all.

Thanks for the pics! The steep angle of the windows lets all kinds of rain in. I had to do something, living in GA and all.

I still have lots of “ongoing projects” that I need to complete as well. I need to reinstall the replacement AC condenser fan, swap in the Jaguar Leather Seats, remove the rear seat, more body work & paint (maybe monsta-liner), a small mountain of electrical work, on board air compressor install, mount my rear tire carrier, get a 5th rim for a full size spare, ...

The list seems endless somedays. I will post probably Friday or Saturday. They should be delivered tomorrow.

[ipd]

Yeah, the angle of the windows was one of my reasons also. Partly why I got the stick-on ones, as they probably let me put the window down a bit further without fear of splash coming inside.

[ipd]

For comparison

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f17/inperfectdarkness/P1020482_zpsyrzfakwr.jpg

[Thelgord]

Got them installed! That was easy. Now I just need to leave the windows closed for 12 hours, per the instructions. Yes ... I actually read them LOL!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/z7tn09ozg1bskdd/IMG_0222.JPG?raw=1

[Thelgord]

I had two web sites open, Amazon and otrattw.net (great site for switches). Had all of switch needs planned out and in the shopping cart. Spent around 2 hours sorting through it all. Fortunately I decided how much was left in the build fund before hitting submit on either.

Yes, I could have made the purchase, but it would have killed the rest of the budget for a couple of months. Switches, wire connectors, wire of various colors, relays ... it all adds up very quickly. I was hoping to knock it all out in one day (purchasing the parts that is). However, I am also planning a trip to Colorado in July and I moved money from the build fund to help pay for that. Damn budgets.

Anyway, I chose too wait. I don’t want to max the budget for the VX as I also buy spare parts, oil, transmission fluid, tools, and other such nonsense out of the same budget.

Budget may keep you from over spending, but sometimes they seem too small. I need to hit the lotto LOL!

[ipd]

Tell me about it. Trying to get house #2 paid off puts a crimp in my fun budget.

[Thelgord]

Spring is here! Damn it. Lots of yard work to do, so no VX work for a couple of weeks.

However, yesterday I fully tested my new (to me) seats and they function perfectly. Even the two-stage seat heater. I will need to build mounting brackets for the new seats, but that is just time. Not seriously difficult.

Also, I have on order a shorter (3’) cb antenna. Once that is on, maybe I can actually pull all the way in to my parking spot. The current 4’ one hits the roof.

Anyway, just a fast update. Back to yard work. :/

[Thelgord]

Spent yesterday trying to fix my CB. After the antenna smacked the roof of my car port I havn’t been able to get a better SWR than 3.5:1. I changed the antenna. Went from a 4’ to 3’ so now it fits in its parking spot. Didn’t fix the problem.

I removed the mount, cleaned up all of the connections. Still nothing. After inspecting the cable, I think I may have broken something inside the mount. It’s a side panel flush mount from Firestik.

Damn it...

[2X]

No diff drop?

[Thelgord]

Nope

[Thelgord]

Yay! I have A/C again!

So, because I have a winch, the A/C Compressor fan wouldn’t fit. I suppose I could have pushed the winch out further, but then it woundn’t fit behind the cladding. So, the fan got pulled. I originally thought about flipping it, but it wouldn’t fit that’s way either. I have seen it work with 8000 and 9000 pound winches, but I have a 12,000 pound, and it is probably too large for the VX, but it was only $200 on an open box special. So, it’s what I have. I also didn’t want to run the A/C without the fan, and it was winter so it wasn’t a priority.

Today, I decided to tackle the problem again. I tried a different compressor fan from a Pull-A-Part yard ($5), and while small enough, it was still to deep to fit without major modifications. Damn it. Oh well, back to square one.

I tried inverting the OEM fan again and testing the fit. This time, I completely pulled the winch wiring and solenoid box to make more room. I discovered that the metal screen over the fan was the issue. I cut it off and repainted the shiny metal bits. After letting it dry, I did another test fit.

It fit! Barely, but it went in! Got it bolted up, re-mounted the winch solenoid, installed a wireless controller for the winch while I was in there, and tested everything. The winch worked great wirelessly, and most importantly, I HAVE A/C AGAIN! Just in time too. Georgia this time of year is just ... awful ...

I am sooooooo happy to have A/C again. Makes a HUGE difference.

[Thelgord]

Getting ready for my power seats, I decided to check out ways to get power into the cab without too much trouble. I found a spot that may work, I hope, so I pulled the dash apart to see what was on the inside at that spot.

I found an aftermarket car alarm that wasn’t completely installed. Wires vampire tapped everywhere. It was a night mare. So, a few hours later and it’s all out. Mostly. There are still wires that run into places I can’t see and I promised my wife a date night, so work is done for today.

I put it all back together and made sure everything still works as it should. Fortunatly no issues, except for a couple of random aftermarket wires I still need to chase down to finish removing.



Almost forgot. I also removed the rear seat.



Phew ... it’s been a busy day :)

[Thelgord]

After a lot of prep work I finally test fitted my Jaguar X-Type power/heated seats. They didn’t fit, damn it.

Don’t get me wrong, they went in, and even would have been mountable. But the seat (the part for your butt) ended up almost 4 inches higher than stock. I am 6’1”, so that just isn’t going to work out. Could I “make it work”? Sure. You can do just about anything when you break out the welder, but I am not going that far. I put the OEM seats back in.

The hunt for better seats continues ...

[ipd]

you need sports car seats. Like out of an S2000 or a 3000GT or something. Those almost always sit VERY low.

[Thelgord]

Maybe i’ll Just buy a good passenger seat off a wrecked VX and swap the rails. My drivers seat is toast. I could disassemble it repair everything that is wrong with it, but the leather is shot as well, so I really don’t see the point in saving this one.

[ipd]

Good luck. I tried offering to swap out my great condition leather seats when I first bought mine, but a plan never came to fruition. They are permanently buried under my WO seat covers now.

[Thelgord]

Today:

1) Leaky Transmission. All the pan bolts were loose. Tightened them back up and added just under a quart of fluid.

2) Discovered my rear speakers are actually round, and part way up inside the bacstic body panels. Obviously not the correct speakers.

3) I found how to read ABS codes from the OBD2 port using a paper clip. I got codes 43 & 44. So, some EHCU work is in my future as well.

The more I look, the more I find ...

[MSHardeman]

Your rear speakers are probably original (see below). It's tough to replace them as you have to remove half of the interior to get to them.
http://www.vehicross.info/showthread.php/14168-Front-and-Rear-Speaker-install?highlight=rear+speaker+install

[Thelgord]

Wow! Thanks!

[ipd]

^ Agreed. Putting 6.5" speakers front/rear in my VX is a future project that i keep procrastinating on. I've had the damn things in the back of my VX waiting to be installed since I had to leave Utah.

[ipd]

I'm getting back from asscrackistan in a couple weeks. Would you like to meet up and tear into your speaker project or mine?

[Thelgord]

Possibly. I’m doing a road trip in a month (not in the VX) then I need to take some more leave before October 1st. I have use or lose days to burn.

[Thelgord]

Today I received my new (slightly used) ABS control module:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/04-05-Dodge-Durango-4x4-ABS-Brake-Control-Module-52113683AC/142431323417?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

I found this thread: http://www.vehicross.info/showthread.php/23339-2005-Durango-ABS-Control-Module-Fits?highlight=Durango+abs

It was what convinced me to try it. It worked perfectly! I found several for the VX specifically that cost from ~$80 to as much as $180. This one is less than $40.

Ticking off the list, one item at a time ...

[Malibu_Robert]

Congratulations Chris! You did a great job rebuilding your VX. I will miss reading your saga now that you have it running well. But hey, perhaps someday you will buy a second one! :grino:

[Thelgord]

Just because the major work is done, doesn’t mean I have nothing else to fix ;) LOL!

[Thelgord]

I order some of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0791NB4FM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I hoping they will work to mount my LED light bar from my old Tacoma on the roof rack. If they work well, I can use them mount all kinds of things. Quick Fists mounts, camera mounts, whatever... Should be here in a couple of weeks.

My passenger door window regulator should be here this week as well. I am looking forward to getting that finally sorted.

As much as I wanted to swap out the U-Joints, it is not in the budget this month (~$140). Next month is my road trip (not in the VX) to a family reunion. The U-Joints will probaly wait until August.

I also still need to order switches for my switch mount that I have ready. I have a usable switch for the light bar, but I am not sure it is the style I want use. It worked for the Tacoma, but the Isuzu switches are a bit different. I haven’t yet test fitted to see if it will work, or how it will look.

I will say that it is nice to start adding adding some optional equipment rather than just working to keep Izzy on the road, which has been a monumental task to this point.

[Thelgord]

Sunday I pulled a 28 hours shift. Tuesday I pulled a 28 hour shift. I am exhausted.

And yet! And yet, I still work my VX! LOL! I got my new window regulator from Isuzu! Yay! My passenger window works!

Finally! Phew ... knocking down that list of fixes one at a time. However, I still have a leaky transmission pan issue to sort out. I think I am going to drop the pan again and try another gasket. I just can’t get this thing to stop weeping. Maybe i’ll try gasket sealer next time? Maybe ... we’ll see ...

[Thelgord]

The new mounting brackets will work! I pulled the wind deflector off the roof rack to do a test fit. I also made sure the mounting bolts for the light bar are the correct size and length. Looks like this may work out after all.

Unfortunately that’s all I could do today, and I did that in the dark. My work schedule has been killing me. But, my rotation is over! Yay! I wont have to do that again for at least a month. Back to back 24+ hour shifts are killer.

It was getting close to 10pm here, when I finished all the test fitting so I figured I better get some sleep before I go playing around with electrical stuff in bad lighting while tired. While I still have a lot to do over the weekend around the house (stupid rain makes everything in Georgia grow into a jungle), I hoping to have the time to get this part of the project done this weekend.

[Thelgord]

This week i got a new engine code. Throttle Position Sensor. I am purchased a new one (the wife is going to be mad) but due to thunder storms in tonight I won’t get it installed until morning. I also picked up some RTV for the transmission pan weeping. Tomorrow I will pick up the fluid I need for it and some new crush washers.

[Thelgord]

Got the new TPS in, so far so good.

Mounted a BlueSea fuse block to the top of the cable controller for cruise control. Perfect fit. Now I can start working on getting my trailer plug mounted and wired up.

Pulled and cleaned the transmission pan. New gasket made from RTV. No leaks! Yay! Finally! I forgot what a PITA dropping the pan is. The crossmember did NOT want to line back up. I have use my floor jack and shift the transmission around to get all the bolts to line up. It was a fight, and there was a thunderstorm starting, but in the end the storm changed directions and now my transmission is working great again.

[Metalryder]

I ordered a thing! 2 things actually. I ordered 2, 5 packs of switch mounts from amazon. I wanted to post a link to the exact ones, but they seem to have pulled them. Maybe I got the last of them? Anyway, I will give a link to the sellers page:
https://www.amazon.com/sp?_encoding=UTF8&asin=&isAmazonFulfilled=1&isCBA=&marketplaceID=ATVPDKIKX0DER&orderID=113-4003080-6586614&seller=A1EQP448COWZL4&tab=&vasStoreID=

Maybe they will become available again? I really have no idea.


Here is the first pic:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/06irx61d6378xi8/Photo%20Apr%2002%2C%205%2023%2048%20PM.jpg?raw=1

And here is the second:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/lqomihxtq7ln1kl/Photo%20Apr%2002%2C%205%2022%2028%20PM.jpg?raw=1

Like I said, I got 2, 5 packs. Each pack included 2 end pieces and 3 center pieces. By combining them I made a seven segment set of mount that fits perfectly in the lower dash! It is much snugger than the pics suggest. I didn’t clip them in yet because I am unsure of how easily they can be removed once they are snapped into place.

This also leaves me with two more end pieces and one center piece. I can still make another 2 or segment switch mount if I need to. I may just save them back for a bit.

I spent a very long time contemplating what to do with this portion of the dash. I couldn’t just leave a gaping hole. I considered making a custom plate that would screw into the plastic to hold four or five switches. Then I found this gem. I actually found them a few months ago. I probably over studied them, but I am glad I did all the research into these things. The fit is perfect for 7 switches, which means I really can do math from time to time ;)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011KIYT70/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B011KIYT70&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=1713835751726239774&pf_rd_r=PBYN0D6YH38NR4KTK2GB&pd_rd_wg=vBgiz&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=HwXuC&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=5facc7fe-7365-11e8-89f8-0558fd75e055

They are available.

[Thelgord]

Thanks! I still need to buy switches before I put it all together ;)

[Thelgord]

I took some very munch needed vacation time, so I havn’t been around. But I am back again :)

Of course, as soon as I get back, the window motor on the drivers slide tries to take a dump. The motor and gears are all actually fine. However, I could slide the window up and down by grabbing the window and push/pulling.

I pulled the door panel and motor. The regulator was fine so I looked at the motor. It seemed to turn fine and get lots of power. Then I grabbed the three sided lug for the regulator. The lug stopped but the motor was still humming along. I popped the cover plate I found the problem.

As I said, the gear itself is fine. However, it is attached to the center shaft (the one that turns the three prong lug) with layers of rubber. It is blown out. As a last ditch effort to repair rather than replace, I got some two part epoxy resin and filled the gaps between the in the inner and out rubber pieces. It is curing now, so I still don’t know if this going to work.

Fingers crossed! :)