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Nikad92397
07/12/2017, 01:43 PM
Going to electric fan.
****************UPDATE************
Update ... I didn't like my " push into the radiator " style thermostat. It just was too inconsistent so I made my own last night. After reading up on it it seemed very easy. I ordered away from eBay and went over kill. I got 4 80amp relays( $13.00) 2- 210-195 thermostats ($10.00) connectors ($10.00) A 3/8 pipe thread tap. Wiring it up was super easy but the hard part was finding a spot to drill and tap a hole for the sensor. All in all it took less that a hour. less than $35.00 I made 2 VERY high draw electric fan controllers that are MUCH better than most you can buy !

Only the single speed 1997-1998 Lincoln Vlll 18" fan has worked for me in all conditions. ( I tried many)
THIS WILL ONLY WORK IF ONLY YOUR CLUTCH FAN IS THE ONLY PROBLEM !!!!
It will not fix overheating due to head gaskets,leaking,clogged radiator,bad thermostat,A/C, etc.
NOTE: Ford doesn't make them anymore so finding a new one might be a long search !
A Used one worked for me.

Tips... for installing a 1997-1998 Lincoln Vlll electric fan. (I found one at Pick your Part $30.00)
(DO NOT GO WITH A 2 SPEED UNIT OF OTHER MODELS, Couger, Taurus, T Bird, !!!!!! They are NOT the same CFM)
The Lincoln is a variable speed that can be controlled by a variable speed controller ( pricey) or a on/ off controller (Affordable)
I have only used the on/off version of controller.
I would only use the water temp sensor. The push into the radiator sensor is inconsistent. ( tried, it worked but didn't like)
I would recommend to install a transmission cooler at this point also. (you might be pulling the radiator a few times checking for clearance and with no transmission lines, it's a one minute job and it's a cheap win win.
Install a bigger alternator at this time also as it's easy to reach with the radiator out and needed ! $100.00

You can install a 40amp toggle switch to see if you like it 1st. ( I kept mine in to use as back up and use as needed )

You will need these parts. Maybe more!
1. 8 gauge wire in a few colors (black,red,yellow,white) and connectors. (butts,round eyes of different sizes)
2. 8 Radiator / Transmission cooler type zip ties.
3. A way to trim the composite fan shroud ( I used a grinder )
4. A drill to drill holes for mounting.
5. 40 amp toggle switch
6. 8 feet of 3/8 soft rubber hose. ( I used fuel line)
7. Super glue ( I used gel )
8. 8mm flat washers
9. 100+ amp alternator http://www.ebay.com/itm/130-AMP-ISUZU-TROOPER-ALTERNATOR-Generator-3-5L-200-2001-2002-/282467615512?fits=Model%3ATrooper&hash=item41c461c318:m:mzkcGyyjffhPyxhQnygDOqA

You will need Pick out your quality of controller. Here is some ideas.

Hollister 3-relay kit, basic See website Hollister Road 69.95
Hollister 3-relay kit, best See website Hollister Road 114.95
Mark VIII fan plug See website Hollister Road 19.95
Delta PWM controller See website Delta Current 79.95
Spal PWM fan controller See website The Fan Man 138.00
Del City 50-amp breaker 71120 Del City 2.25

Installation..

Remove radiator. Remove fan and clutch,shroud.
Install 3 flat washers to the fan clutch studs and reinstall the nuts. Check to be sure pully is tight !
Install new alternator ( 100 amp or more is mandatory) this set up draws a lot of juice.
Install transmission cooler ( optional )

I installed fan to the far right (passenger) of the radiator for clearance of pulley and to let air flow by and cool on the freeway.
You will have to trim the ears off around the sides and trim the bottom of the shroud to clear bottom radiator tank and hose and to keep it flat.
Note: it must be as flat to the radiator as possible to keep the fan from rubbing the shroud. Check often during all of this.
Do a test fit. Just slip the radiator in, hold it while you set the fan in place, check clearance.
Once trimmed correctly, you are ready to insulate the shroud from the radiator with your rubber hose ( or your better idea ) I sliced one side of the hose and slipped it on all the way around the radiator side of the shroud, super glued it in place as I went. I also used a heat gun to form it around. If you don't have a good seal to the radiator you can run black duct tape around it to seal the shroud to the radiator as best as you can (or your idea) on final installment. But it does need a good seal.

Now you will need to make your 1/8" holes in the sides of the shroud to mount to radiator with radiator zip ties. ( I used 8 rubber washers fin side under plastic washers and 8 plastic washers on the shroud side ) they came in the kit.
Do a test fit again, check fan clearance.
If all is a go zip tie the fan to the radiator and seal it. SUPER GLUE the locking mechanism of the zip ties !!!! Trim off extra zip. ( I used 2 mechanisms on each )
Check fan clearance and Install the system back in.
At this point I ran 2 wires into the driver area and hooked a toggle switch to them, one wire to the power side of the fan and the other to the battery. Run the ground to the ground side of battery.
I used no fuses at this point.. Test.. go drive it.. turn it on and off and watch the temp gauge.. once satisfied you can wire in your choice of controller and install a 50 amp fuse for the toggle system and your done. Enjoy

Thelgord
07/12/2017, 02:52 PM
If it wasn't for this post I wouldn't have looked up the OEM alternator. 75 Amp! Really? That's it?

Being fairly new to a VX I had no idea it was so small! Even if I never do this mood, I will be upgrading the alternator. Thanks!

Nikad92397
07/12/2017, 03:45 PM
Yup 75.. That's enough for stock but if you run lights,stereo amp, inside doodads it gets strained easy! I don't think a 130amp is enough for a winch. But then again nor is one battery.

Thelgord
07/12/2017, 03:56 PM
Expensive at $350, but I think this is in my future: http://powerbastards.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Fitzall%2D220

Nikad92397
07/12/2017, 05:56 PM
I read awhile back somewhere that it will take quite a bit of fabrication to get it in and aligned. Might be wrong.
I. Know someone makes a 175/180 amp that bolts in.

WormGod
07/13/2017, 07:14 AM
I tried 2 different alts in the past and neither fit. That real estate in that location simply sucks and someone in design should be slapped for it. :p

That said, I am still with my original alt and find myself replacing my battery every couple of years. Does not help that I have a ton of creature comforts added since inception..... *sigh*

It has been a while since I bothered to browse around and see if there is a higher amp available that has a better fit (or fits at all!). If anyone knows, I'm all ears....

Nikad92397
07/13/2017, 11:58 AM
I posted in the thread you are in right now a link to a 130 amp.. Bolt in.. I have one in my truck. http://www.ebay.com/itm/130-AMP-ISUZU-TROOPER-ALTERNATOR-Generator-3-5L-200-2001-2002-/282467615512?fits=Model%3ATrooper&hash=item41c461c318:m:mzkcGyyjffhPyxhQnygDOqA

Nikad92397
07/13/2017, 12:24 PM
I posted in the thread you are in right now a link to a 130 amp.. Bolt in.. I have one in my truck. http://www.ebay.com/itm/130-AMP-ISUZU-TROOPER-ALTERNATOR-Generator-3-5L-200-2001-2002-/282467615512?fits=Model%3ATrooper&hash=item41c461c318:m:mzkcGyyjffhPyxhQnygDOqA

Thelgord
07/13/2017, 02:50 PM
While a 130amp would be fine for most people, I actually need at least 170amp with 190-200amp prefered. I got my VX to be a project vehicle. That project also has some electrical requirements that need to be met.

My Tacoma came with a 130amp alternator and I had to upgrade it as well. Electrically speaking, I am very demanding apparently.

WormGod
07/14/2017, 07:17 AM
I posted in the thread you are in right now a link to a 130 amp.. Bolt in.. I have one in my truck. http://www.ebay.com/itm/130-AMP-ISUZU-TROOPER-ALTERNATOR-Generator-3-5L-200-2001-2002-/282467615512?fits=Model%3ATrooper&hash=item41c461c318:m:mzkcGyyjffhPyxhQnygDOqA

Yeah.... but I'm not looking for an Ebay reman.

Nice that it bolts in with no blasting material and plasma cutters needed however. ;)