Cladding covered in bad paint. Now what?

[11justsomekid]

I've finally got my VX to a point where I'm trying to make it better cosmetically, and the cladding has always been number one. I've known of the cases cladding for a while, but I knew that mine was different. It was lighter, splotchy, flaked on places, and came off when you rubbed it. Here are some pictures to demonstrate how bad it is right now (http://imgur.com/a/q77fYk6). I've had it with the sh*tty look of it, and I'm ready to do something about it. I originally though to get some paint remover and bring it down to the original plastic, but that would take forever to make sure to not damage the plastic, I think. I've also toyed with the idea of bed liner, which I've seen a lot here. I guess what I'm asking is what are my best options in this situation? Has anyone else had this type of issue before? My goal is to try and get it back to a factory(ish) look, and this cheap paint ain't cutting it.

[bartmanS4]

I'd go with bedliner. I had mine all done with LineX and pulled each piece off and had them encapsulate the cladding. It doesn't stick well to the type of plastic, nothing does so it's sprayed on both sides with the texture only on the outside. I also used some off the shelf stuff from the auto parts store for my hood insert and it turned out great. Don't know how hard it would be to do all the cladding with that stuff though. If what ever is on your cladding now is coming off then what ever you spray on to that will come off with it. I'd do the LineX if I were you.

[Mile High VX]

The product mentioned in this thread is no longer available but the thread may be helpful...http://www.vehicross.info/showthread.php/19927-Showroom-New-Trim-Restorer-info-experience?highlight=cladding+restore

I used a spray flexible bumper coating on my Dragon that turned out nice. You can find this at most auto parts stores. Whatever you choose is going to have to cover the existing treatment/paint that is there. I would pressure wash it well and then go over it with a good wax/grease remover. Then a good spray with an adhesion promoter and whatever spray-on solution you determine is best for you.

[CatFish]

My cladding looked similar to that when I got mine, it was not paint is was the outer layer of the cladding flaking because it was so dry and the plastic was oxidizing and starting to sort of turn to dust, I used 409 to get off some of the chalky stuff (409 has acid in it so it got off 50% of it) then I wiped it down acetone on a terry rag and that got more of that pealing chalky crap off. I then used a bunch of different greasy treatments but they all only lasted a few months because the cladding was just too oxidized and it just looked like crap. In the end I cleaned all the oily crap off wiped it with acetone again, washed and dried it, them I lightly painted it with dark charcoal trim and bumper paint from the auto parts store, the color is almost and exact match to the back of the cladding (the original color) so when is gets scratched is barley shows and I can touch it up easy anytime. If you do this just be sure to paint VERY light coats it worked well for my terrible cladding. I Just masked off the lights and taped news paper to the upper painted part, I think it took 8 to 10 hours with all the cleaning and prep I did but now I don't have to treat it with greasy crap and can touch it up easy and I only spent about $30-$50 for cleaning supplies and paint (2 cans) I tested an area first and left it for a couple of weeks to see how it looked and liked it so I did the whole truck. If I spill gas on it I do have to touch up that spot but it only take a few minutes.

[CatFish]

I found my thread on my cladding tests, I did try the die and it came off and looked like paint to but does come off with acetone yours might have old die too, check out the whole thread and see the last page for the best results I got. http://www.vehicross.info/showthread.php/27315-Cladding-Restoration?highlight=cladding

[xorayik]

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[CatFish]

This has nothing to do with VXs and disrespectful to post this spam here on the forum, you will not be getting any business from this post.


Due to the hot and cold elements here in Colorado, fences here tend to wear down quicker than they would in other areas of the country. Home owners often make the expensive mistake of replacing a worn down fence as opposed to hiring a professional power washer to come out and restore the fence at a much more affordable price. Another mistake we see homeowners make is they often attempt to power wash their fences on there own. When it's not done properly, using the right tools the right way, you will do irreversible damage to the fence forcing you into the high cost of having to replace the Fence Restoration Colorado Springs (https://www.drgreenslandscapingllc.com/fence-power-washing) all together.

Power washing is a skill in it's own right, but it's not just reserved for decks, concrete and siding. It works really well on vertical applications making the restoration of a fence very achievable. The first thing we do is power wash the fence in a nice even manor, removing dead wood fiber, dirt and grime