Clear Coat

[Bantan]

Dear VXers,
My VX is coming up to its 3rd birthday in a few days so I wanted to do something extra special. I've noticed that it does not shine as much as before even after polishing. I wanted a new paint job but, can't afford it right now, so I was wondering, can I just have the paint shop apply a few coats of clear coat over the existing original paint? I believe from all the hundreds of washes and Acid rain may have worn away at the clear coat and thats why its not shinny as before, is this possible?

Regards,
Concerned Parent:confused:

[VXcaver]

From what I've seen, our clear coat from the factory is pretty thin. If you've been using an orbital polisher then maybe you've worn through the clear in a few places, like on the high spots at the edges along fenders or the ribs on the doors. If you've just been hand polishing and waxing then I imagine the clear coat is fine and all the old wax is dulling the finish. Maybe try an orbital polisher and a compound with a mild cut. Also, you might check with an auto paint shop and get a nice professional polishing pad rather than those fuzzy wuzzy whilrly ones that come from WalMart. A good polishing pad runs around twenty to twenty five bucks if I remember right, but its worth it. They can also recommend an appropriate polish for the clear coat. I use the 3M products. Triathlete and I are going to be doing this same project in a week or so, and I can post what we use and how it goes if its any help.

Of course we'll have to experiment on Triathlete's truck first... ;eekg; ;eeko; ;eekp;

[omegavx]

You can actually get some places to do a special 3 to 5 layer clear coat for pretty cheap. You might check pepboys, last time I was in the one here, they'll do a triple clear coat for a few hundred dollars. Its supposed to clear up all the little scratches, swirls etc. I'm considering getting it done, but I wanted to wait till after the badlands run in april.

[Bantan]

Thanks Guys:
VXcaver/Triathlete, can't wait to see the results!
omegavx-I'll look into it!
:thumbup:

[NC_VX]

3m Products? Moncha did that on his ride right? I just got mine painted and want to put the protectants in the front to prolong the life of the color shine and get away from those damn bug and rock nik's...

ANy advice as to how long I should wait before applying, I know i've got one more polishing before I even consider 3M

[t2p]

Bantan:
I would not recommend new clear coat ...... new paint ..... etc ..... unless it is *absolutely* required. I would attempt to keep the factory finish as long as possible.
.
Plus, I believe it will cost much more than a few hundred dollars to have the job done correctly.
.
I (also) would not use a a heavy - or even mid abrasive compound ...... not on a base coat/clear coat finish. Instead, look into a hand glaze ........ 3M makes some good products that many use. Hand glaze should remove the fine scratches and restore the shine - given there is no underlying problem.
.
If applying the glaze by hand does not do the job, buffing (the glaze) with a foam pad - *not* a wool pad - would be the next step. Buffing should be done by somebody that has alot of experience.
.
t2p

[VXtreme]

Bantan, I have to agree with T2P, there are a multitude of products out there from 3M and other manufacturers like Meguires to bring your paint back to life. I am the national marketing manager for 3M products for my company. I have 26 years experience selling and using many of their products, including their hand glaze. I would do as T2P has recommended and try the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. This product has no abrasives in it and it will fill small swirl marks and scratches and greatly improve the appearance of your paint. This product can be used on new paint as well as your older finish with no risk of damaging the finish. Hand glazes are designed to polish, fill and seal the paint. They are not waxes and do not offer the protection that a good wax job does. Use caution not to apply on a relatively warm or hot surface. It best applied in the shade or in an enclosed area, like your garage out of the sun. Only do about a 2' X 2' area at one time, apply, let dry, buff then move to the next area. If you do this, I think you will see a significant improvement in your paints appearance, if in fact the clear coat is intact and you have something to work with.

[Chopper]

3m extra cut an' 3m machine glaze after the 2000 wet sand.Yeah, we use only 3m in the shop and always toss a coat of Meguire's #26 yellow wax on any paint work we do.

[Bantan]

Thanks Guys, I will have to wait a bit for the weather to warm up some to try out these products.

[Sheik-YurBooty]

Get the 3M hand glaze, BUT not the product sold in the stores or pro shops. Get the 3M hand glaze that is used by the auto repair shops. It works much better and its a snap to use. To get it you will need to go to one one the suppliers that the auto shops use. There is one in Flushing Queens That I got mine , but I forget the name of the place. I will try and get you the nameo of the place. This is the stuff that comes in 2 sizes. Small size about $16, large about $35. This is not the stuff sold in retail shops, its a different chemical & it doesnt come in a grey bottle like that of the stores, this ones more like a tan color in a cylinder shaped plastic bottle & will also carry the same name 3M HAND GLAZE. You will love the stuff. Good Luck, Bruce

[Bantan]

Originally posted by Sheik-YurBooty
Get the 3M hand glaze, BUT not the product sold in the stores or pro shops. Get the 3M hand glaze that is used by the auto repair shops. It works much better and its a snap to use. To get it you will need to go to one one the suppliers that the auto shops use. There is one in Flushing Queens That I got mine , but I forget the name of the place. I will try and get you the nameo of the place. This is the stuff that comes in 2 sizes. Small size about $16, large about $35. This is not the stuff sold in retail shops, its a different chemical & it doesnt come in a grey bottle like that of the stores, this ones more like a tan color in a cylinder shaped plastic bottle & will also carry the same name 3M HAND GLAZE. You will love the stuff. Good Luck, Bruce

Yo man, where you been?
Thanks for the info. Hook a brother up, when you get the name of the place.
Peace
Mercer/Bantan

[VXcaver]

So Triathlete and I experimented on his clear coat Sunday... ;eekr; The task was removing all the nasty "desert racing stripes" that have scuffed the finish. We used my old buffer/polisher from my airbrushing days and shined up his clear using 3M liquid microfinishing compound on a Mequires soft buff foam buffing pad. He used some Zymol wax on it afterwards and the finish looks like brand new. ;Db;

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/17racing_stripes-med.jpg

[Bantan]

Now, thats how I want mine to look.
VXcaver, got a pic of the entire VX after Buffing?

[Triathlete]

And here is the same area after the Zymol (1st coat). It reflects nicely!;Dy; ;Dy; ;Dy; ;Dy;
http://pstr-g02.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/005/5A/0F/35/A9/QYRVOv8xwZX9mRneVTy-PZ0vwucoVlHP0300.jpg

[Triathlete]

Bantan,
I'll be going out and putting the 2nd coat on shortly. I will take a pic of the whole enchilada then!:thumbup:

[Triathlete]

http://pstr-g02.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/009/34/5F/DE/19/4L5ABXeQgwMvjEk54ddAabHTqwuAebwG0300.jpg
http://pstr-g01.ygpweb.aol.com/data2/004/6E/F4/53/2F/uR4HIgW4UQUC1bURp1Bnt4wMNsGc2EiC0300.jpg
http://pstr-g02.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/00D/0C/F8/B5/3C/Gi+DoJNzXSouUD4Ic9VE8S1HBZzaekoG0300.jpg
http://pstr-g01.ygpweb.aol.com/data2/00D/04/4B/E1/F6/puNDPg2BWYa7KuE5G-SUZT29MXmXhrRJ0300.jpg
http://pstr-g01.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/007/58/17/6F/9A/0za-O51iasjYr19rhEs5oYD1CJvwRxma0300.jpg
http://pstr-g01.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/00B/30/38/F5/5A/eju3iWyL19g16-7NZYFk6Ho6bv9wHv9n0300.jpg
http://pstr-g02.ygpweb.aol.com/data3/00A/0F/DF/AE/E8/P94w3kqcSsk8m1Yh97I6mkh3s6+vgV-d0300.jpg
http://pstr-g01.ygpweb.aol.com/data/00A/31/65/91/71/iX7e4bQGPYPlFnJO6lYeLU8EO17x1RJ80300.jpg
http://pstr-g02.ygpweb.aol.com/data/00D/43/A9/0A/0A/Dws5EG+hEGVjLH14RE-s801h5SKY5SzG0300.jpg
http://pstr-g01.ygpweb.aol.com/data2/00C/5B/B9/29/F6/HmCHKsPXw2nhlzy4Yymkf1ciAARNBn-m0300.jpg
:naughty: :cool!: :naughty: :cool!: :naughty: :cool!: :naughty: :cool!: :naughty: :cool!: :naughty: :cool!:

[Cyrk]

looks nice.... but man clean your cladding also...

[Triathlete]

One step at a time. I have 2 weeks till the car show. Next I am going to clean up the engine and undercarriage. Then the interior interior. The cladding will get a good cleaning with Meguiar's Natural Shine! Plus 3-4 more coats of Zymol! She won't be perfect...too muck off roading...but she'll be the best she's ever been!

[Bantan]

Man, I can' t even tell where the metal ends and the glass starts.
That stuff is top shelf. I'ma gonna do it when the weather warms up. Triathlete/VXcaver, can you please post a simple list of all products and equipment used, as well as a short step by step for all who want to try this.
Thanks

NYC, Vxers, how bout a "Spring Bling - Shine up your VX meet"?

[t2p]

Nice ........... with envy ........ I really like the black ........
.
nice job ... anyone that rides a Flite saddle has to be a good guy !

[Triathlete]

VXCaver is the man in the know. He did the buffing I only assisted (I kick @$$ with a garden hose) and did the waxing. The wax I used was Zymol. VXCaver used an electric buffer (Black and Decker) and the 3m liquid microfinishing compound with a Meguiar's soft foam buffing pad. I'll let VXCaver give all the details.

t2p...I've been riding that Flite a long time. It probably sees as many miles as my VX! Put a hundred miles on it Saturday!;Dy;

[VXcaver]

Bantan-
I appreciate Billy's (Triathlete) confidence in me, :rollb: but I was an just an airbrusher. Most of the time the finishing work got done by a pro. So whatever I share is sort of on the level of a knows-enough-to-be-dangerous wannabe, and others here will hopefully have corrections and suggestions. In your original post you mentioned acid rain, and I don't think we have that here in AZ. (Hope not. It sounds bad.) Is it worse than our evil sunshine?

Anyhow... The VXcaver and Triathlete Steps to a Killer Finish:

Ahead of time get: a) good polisher. Mine is a Black and Decker thats got hundeds of hours on it. It's the kind with a handle on one side, which is killer for getting into tight spaces. Also spins at variable rpms. b) polishing pad. This will only come from a pro auto paint supply house. I love the Mequires foam pads. The specific one we used was a Mequire's soft buff W-7000, 7 inch. You also need a backing plate, which doesn't come with the pad. Get that at the auto paint place, too. c) Polish. I saw some suggestions above that I wanted to try on Billy's, but the paint shop was closed so I went with my old standby all purpose can't screw it up 3M Imperial Microfinishing Compound-Liquid. It comes in quart bottles, I think about $15 per. d) rags. Lots of rags.

1. Wash the car real good. Gotta get every bit of dust and grit off first. Even a little grain of sand can make a mess.

2. Remove the old wax. We skipped this step, on account of me not wanting to risk using my wax remover anywhere near the cladding. (I use a wax remover by PPG (DX330) but its not recommended for use around plastics, etc. Something crazy about static electric build up and sparks and devastating explosions....)

3. Fire up your polisher and get busy. Billy's clear was in good shape, just a little scuffed from run-ins with tree branches, so we didn't actually buff the whole car. We went at the bad spots. While polishing, I like to keep things wet. Kind of a balancing act, not wanting to get electrocuted while running the polisher. It's also good to wipe up the polishing compoud as you go. Done right, the whole truck can be polished in an hour or less.

4. Wash the car again. Cleanliness makes everything easy.

5. Start waxing. Billy Triathlete used Zymol. His finish looks almost like old-school black laquer -- deep and glassy. Very cool look. A lot of hard work.

Hope that's a little useful, and on topic with your post. Also, t2p mentioned finding an experienced person to do the buffing, which is right on. I can't really explain buffing technique here. It's not rocket science, but a little mistake can have consequences. If you do it yourself, go slow, keep everything clean, and check your progress frequently.

Later!

[UtahVXer]

I've been told by my local body shop guy that waxes are "old-school" and that the new polymer resin products are far superior and last longer. He recommends Polymer II Paint Sealant (http://www.prowax.com/1prod_bulls/P-39pb03_15_04.pdf) Does anyone know how this compares to the Zaino products? Should a hand glaze (like 3M) be used first?

[xdfarrx]

Hey Triathlete-
Great looking vx. Black is really tough looks nice. A suggestion. Your wheel wells. I hit mine once every 2 weeks with simple green. I use an oversized plastic toothbrush and then a knuckle grip plastic brush as well. I have a hot water faucet I attach a hose to and that helps as well. If you do that and then hit them with Meguiars back to black your car will look new, and look unreal. Nail those torsion bars too.... Just a suggestion for you. Hope your show goes well. take care

[Triathlete]

xdfarrx....thanks for the info. I don't worry to much about the wheel wells though. They are usually full of dirt or mud!;Dy; The show went well. A lot of people showed a lot of interest in the VX's. Pics from the show can be viewed HERE (http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3270&perpage=15&pagenumber=5)

[xdfarrx]

Great pics- Triathlete

[WormGod]

I'm a big Zymol fan too! I like to use an orbital buffer while applying though. It soaks it into the paint good and deep and lasts a bit longer. Cause god knows, it's HARD to keep a black car looking clean for long. ;)

Here's to Zymol!

http://wormgod.8m.com/Images/Ebony/vx09.JPG