Lots of lift Q's

[AlaskaVX]

Alright I am finally saved enough for my lift! First a bit on me...... I do a lot of offroading, occasional little jumps, and long highway drives to get to these places. I would like to gain about 4.5-5" of ground clearance with this lift and tires.......oh and I also searched first ;)

I have some TrXus MT 33x12.5x16 tires ordered, and I have the OME912 springs, and plan on flipping the BJ's. Now I am looking at getting rear shocks. I am looking at these (http://www.bilstein.com/html/applications/5150/index.htm)

Bilstein 5150 series
Part Number: BF5-A195-H1 (22.50" ext. 14.17" compressed)

Shock Q's
Will they work? Will my springs fall out when flexed? What would be the ideal shock measurements compressed/extended? I love the stiff ride the VX has now, and I want to keep it that way so is the valving stiff enough? What valving should I look for? Do i want some kind of spacer in there to prevent the spring coming out?

Lifting Q's
Will the 2.5" lift be enough for the tires? If I wanted some more clearance (extra 1" if needed) what is the best way of doing it? And where can I find the part?

Wheel Q's
What would be the best offset for wheels to make the tires fit? Right now I have a set of 16x10 wheels with a -24 offset, can I make these work cheaper then buying new rims? http://www.alaskamotorsports.com/akmsweb/modules/PNphpBB2/images/smiles/scratchhead.gif

If anyone can answer all these questions I will ....http://www.alaskamotorsports.com/akmsweb/modules/PNphpBB2/images/smiles/bowdown.gif

[transio]

16x10 @ -24 offset will give you 4" of backspace, which is a 1" improvement over stock. I don't see why it would be a problem?

[AlaskaVX]

link to last thread were I was told they would not work http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3126&highlight=how+much+lift

[transio]

Ok, I looked at it.... they're saying you're gonna rub your fenders when turning? But you're lifting 4-5", right? I'd think that would eliminate the problems w/ fender clearance. Your wheels are gonna be sticking out about 3-4" though.

[AlaskaVX]

No I am lifting it 2.5" (3-3.5" if there is some kind of spacer that gets me the extra .5-1") but with the tires I will have 4-5" more ground clearance

[yal^]

To answer one of your Q.
I have 912 springs. I think not too many people with lifted VXs used any type of spacers, but I was advised, and followed with 1'' coil spacers. You can find those here: Independet4x (http://www.independent4x.com/) or DOR (http://www.darlington-offroad.com/homepage.html)
We measured as we lifted it, and it seems I got 3" of lift with this setup plus something over 1" height with my 265/75/16 BFG All Terrain. I did not change shocks, as I was told it wasn't needed.
The ride got stiffer, and I can feel limited down travel of the wheels, but nothing really alarming so far. I think the bigest problem I had with body roll - oh boy, cornering has became a challenge for a while, until I learned to slow down... LMAO

About your wheels and tires - I have no idea... I think someone else can help you with this... Sorry ;po;

[niv_d]

I’m running 265/75/16 with OME 912, ball joint flipped, torsion bars cranked and original shocks. I had to trim a bit for the front wheels not to rub. You will not be able to fit 33’s without spacers and I doubt it if 1” spacers would be enough. I would go with 2” ones, or actually, with this setup and your usage (a lot of highway…), I would go with smaller tires.
Just my 2 cents…

[niv_d]

Good tire size calculator:
Tire size calculator (http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html)

[SPAZZ]

you will need more than those OME 912's with the 33's............More like OME919's or the CAlmini springs and stiffer & longer shocks.

But, only crank T bars for 3" of lift unless you get high angle drive joints to replace cv'ss and chrome molly shafts. Any higher and the cv's do not like the stress offroad.

speedo will be off and you will notice a "HUGE" power loss with the 33's and stock gears so you will need at least 456's

you will be trimming alot in front and behind of the front wheels

[AlaskaVX]

Will these work? I mean these would solve all the CV trouble and give me the extra 1.5" of lift that I want.
From Darlington offroad

http://www.darlington-offroad.com/IMGP0082.JPG

[SPAZZ]

but, they are too much with a core exchange....might as well have someone mod your stock ones

[Triathlete]

high angle drive joints to replace cv'ss and chrome molly shafts

Hmmm, Has anyone found or had custom made any of these for the VX yet?

[SPAZZ]

there is a place in Longmont Colorado that specializes in the high angle drivelines to replace cv's...

I am moving back to Colorado...and will be in Colorado Springs so, I will be close enough to pay them a personal visit to let them have hands on. Hopefully this can be a go and I will make all info readily available

[kpaske]

Originally posted by SPAZZ
you will need more than those OME 912's with the 33's............

I'm running the Nitto Terra Grapplers (IIRC they're 285/60/R16's) which are about 32.9" tall and they fit fine under my VX with OME 912's, cranked torsion bars, and Rancho RS9000X shocks. Took some minor trimming in the front, but they've never rubbed.

[Kahuna]

Interesting....I have 285/75/16 Goodyears (33") with that very aggressive thread design. It kinda looks like that RC Vehicross with the really big tires. I have not lifted or modified anything except had to do a little trimming in the front of wheel well and just had to hit one screw with a 16 ounce hammmer to move the screw back about 1/16 of an inch to get the tires to fit. However, my 912 just arrive and I look forward to putting them on.

[SPAZZ]

do not do any real offroading then...because when I lifted mine 3 inches and only had 32's, just pulling into a driveway going up curb would make front tires push back and rub...and offroad I could not do any real offroading or it would rub badly....


lets see your galleries and then compare to mine...you probably don't do anything even remotely close...

[Kahuna]

SPAZZ....of course I off-road. I drove on my grass in my yard the other day to wash my car...hmmmm....oh yeah, at a soccer tournament I had to drive out of the parking lot and into a dirt field to park....WHAT DO YOU MEAN I DON'T OFF-ROAD? :dance:

[Triathlete]

I think it will depend on the width of the tire and rim size/off set also. I plan on going to 33's for off roading but will only be going with a 10.5 inch width. Running them on 15x8 inch rims with as close to factory off set as possible.
I have the 912's and t bars crancked.;Dy;
And yes, I do a little off road.
http://pstr-g02.ygpweb.aol.com/data2/00C/1B/02/91/0D/Dcv7U3xZAUDUrgOcUoNqDC64VEt0NRtl0300.jpg :thumbup:

[SPAZZ]

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=2276&papass=&sort=4http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=3028&papass=&sort=4 http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=1924&papass=&sort=4 http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=2071&papass=&sort=4

[Dallas4u]

When and why did this become a "I off-road more than you" thread? I thought it was just questions about lift?

[Triathlete]

Originally posted by Dallas4u
When and why did this become a "I off-road more than you" thread? I thought it was just questions about lift?

I believe we have been answering the questions at hand. Forgive us if we were having a little fun!;Dy;

[AlaskaVX]

OK heres what I have decided on....
I am doing the 912's, 2" poly spacer, 1.5" drop brackets, crank torsion bar, and fitting 33"x12.5 TrXus MT tires. That should be a 4.5" lift that will give the 33"s some clearance. Wow this is going to be a bit bigger then I originally expected! ;eeky; It will sit about 6" higher with the tires!

Now what size shocks should I be looking for front and rear? What is your opinions on Bilstein 5150 series? What valving (stiff) should I look for?

[yal^]

and all in all you'll be done with racing...
But your VX will monstrous ;Do;

[SPAZZ]

Alaska, did you figure in that you will be losing 1.5 inch clearance by installing those drop down brackets?????

[yal^]

you mean: 921 give about 2.5" + 2" spacers = 4.5" - 1.5" drop off brackets = 3" + 3" on the tires height?
That still equals 6". Or maybe my calculations are off?
Correct me if I'm wrong...

one thing though...
I am very curious what sort of stress those 33" tires will bring on cv joints? I am running 32" and my cv's seem to be in a very dangerous angle...
I am just looking for answer to the weird griding noise that started after I lifted my VX...

[AlaskaVX]

No Spazz I did not think of that, thanks, however 1.5" less clearance under front diff. isn't too much concern when I am lifting it 4.5". I was mainly concerned about the height of my transfer case. So my transfer case will sit 4.5" higher and my front diff 3" higher without tires, correct? And with tires I will get about 6"+ more clearance in the rear and 4.5"+ more clearance up front under diff.

Would a 1" spacer work instead of a 2"? I mean would I have enough clerance for 33"s fully articulated? That way I would only need to crank the torsion bar 2" instead of 3" saving some angle on the CV's.

[kpaske]

When you say 2" spacer, are we talking about a body lift? Where are you getting it?

[Reg Hinnant]

yal^
CV joint problems are possible with tire size/lift combo's.
Check with Grampa Bob & Swordy on this, cause it is something others have had problems with. ;)
AlaskaVX
B5150 will require custom brackets to use on the VX. I would go with the stiffest valving that they come with, since that still, will not be as stiff as the originals.

[Triathlete]

Kpaske- the 2" spacers are spring spacers NOT a body lift. The poly spacers mount between the rear spring and the frame spring perch to give an additional 2" of lift.

[spitfire5454]

so why not do a body lift? I know you would have to modify a trooper body lift, but it would mean you wouldnt have to crank the t-bars as much resulting in less CV stress. additionally, you wouldnt have to deal with the stiffer suspension that cranking t-bars gives. Just a thought.

[AlaskaVX]

I do not want any kind of body lift done, 2 other people up here have modified the Trooper body lift to work but I don't really care to cut my plastics to get around the gas tank, etc. And LOTS of mods to the Trooper lift to make it work. Even with adding the diff. drop brackets it will take less time then installing the body lift
Thanks for the suggestion though.


B5150 will require custom brackets to use on the VX
Are you just talking about the fronts? Isn't the rear eye to eye? What do they call the mounting we have up front? :confused:

[SPAZZ]

1" spacer would be fine...but you will need the bump stop extensions in the rear, and longer stiffer shocks in the rear for a smoother more comfortable ride.

[AnalogVX]

Originally posted by SPAZZ
Alaska, did you figure in that you will be losing 1.5 inch clearance by installing those drop down brackets?????

Actually ground clearance is related to the tire size not suspension lift. You lift the suspension to fit larger tires. the only 1.5 inches you will be losing is at the front diff, which won't be any less than the rear diff. You are using the drop to get CV's in line.

[SPAZZ]

by dropping front axle...you do lose clearance.

[AnalogVX]

Explain...

[SPAZZ]

by dropping the front axle you actually are dropping the axle lower to the ground...you are keeping the ride height, but losing clearance...


if you once could run over a rock that was 16 inches off the ground, if you lower the front axle, you will not be able to run over that rock anymore.

if you take a stock VX and drop the axle 1.5 inches...then your clearance will drop to almost 7 inches instead of the 8.8

[MrCrowley]

In reply to whether 33" is ok or not, I have a VX and Trooper. I am reading the trooper forums as much as this one. There are several people with larger than 33" tires on Troopers, Heck overseas there are troopers with 36", 38", and even 44" Tires. Solid front axles by the way with fender flares, body suspension lifts, 5.38:1 gears etc. but their advice is "If you dont want to risk driveline damage stay 33 and under with independent front". Its a little more trouble for the VX to get 33's due to the tighter wheel wells. The Trooper has slightly larger wheel wells than the VX for a few more options, but extreme offroad and rockcrawling will be very harsh on the driveline. 32" and under may be trouble free except really abusive situations (usually tie rods, maybe cv joints and boots) If someone goes 33" or greater you are surely needing 5.38" gears or only stay on flat land. Lots of driveline stress for sure.

[SPAZZ]

with 33's 456's are just fine.

[Nazrat]

My $0.02 on gearing:

In a 3.2l Trooper, 33s are driveable with 4.56 gears. They are better (and closer to stock) with 4.77 gears.

Considering that the VX comes with 4.30, going to 4.56 is about the same (6% lower) as going from 4.56 to 4.77 (5% lower), 33s and 4.56 would be a very good match on the VX.

Even with the 124HP 2.6l engine, 33s and 4.77 gears were not bad, and many people lived with 124HP, 4.56 and 33s.

Your 215HP will probably turn 33s just fine with stock gearing, but if you are installing lockers (which makes sense if you are going to off-road it) it also makes sense to get a set of 4.56 gears at the same time. They will probably be VERY cheap near you at a junkyard. Any Trooper from 1988-1997 will have 4.56 gears in the 10bolt/12 bolt combination. I've purchased both full axles (in PA) for $67.50.

For me the front axle was almost never what I got hung up on, it was the transfer case skid plate. I'd happily drop the front axle 1.5" if I was lifting the t-case skid the same amount (via lift springs and cranking the t-bars).

-Tad

[AnalogVX]

Originally posted by SPAZZ
by dropping the front axle you actually are dropping the axle lower to the ground...you are keeping the ride height, but losing clearance...


if you once could run over a rock that was 16 inches off the ground, if you lower the front axle, you will not be able to run over that rock anymore.

if you take a stock VX and drop the axle 1.5 inches...then your clearance will drop to almost 7 inches instead of the 8.8

So how much ground clearance is lost in realtionship with the rear diff?
If you can clear that large obstacle with the front diff, what use is it if you can't clear it with the rear diff?
I am wondering because a drop front diff to ease the stress on CV's is going to be my deciding factor whether or not I get a lift.

[SPAZZ]

the dropdown brackets do is lower the front axle to make the cv angle less stressful, but by doing so you lose clearance...except keep ride height.

the rear axle stays the same.

rear diff is higher anyway

[AnalogVX]

Nope, the front diff is a little over an inch higher than the rear and still another 1/2 inch or so higher than the crossmember directy behind it.

Due to the design and geometry of IFS, when the torsion bars are cranked, the center of travel in the front suspension is moved upward thereby achieving "lift". The side effect of this is that you are using most of your downward travel to achieve this "lift". The front diff and crossmember will move up with this procedure as well, increasing the difference between the front and rear even more.

It would be safe to say that dropping the front diff 1.5" to ease the stress on the CV's would make a negligible amount of decrease to ground clearance if any at all.

[AlaskaVX]

OK so just to make sure I am understanding all this (the more I read on them the more I get confused) the 1.5" drop brackets "will actually raise the ride height up front"? So when the drop bracket is installed and torsion bars are cranked 3" the VX will sit 4.5" higher, YES? I am wanting to put my deposit down but just need someone to confirm it one more time.

Now will I need to drop the crossmember too? What happens if I don't?

I think I will stick with the 2" poly spring spacer since if I'm lifting it I might as well LIFT it!

OK so right now here is the list of Items needed to lift ride height 4.5" without tires:

OME 912 springs
1.5" front diff drop bracket
2" poly spring spacers
New rear shocks (what size?)
2" bumpstop extensions
crank torsion bars 3"

Items that can wait a bit:

4.56 gears
front shocks (what size?) they are starting to go and I want to replace.

Now anthing I am missing?



Items that I will eventually get installed to make a kick arse VX: (kind of a note to self)

Front hitch reciever
Tones rear hitch reciever
Multi-mount 8000i winch
Swordys beefy tie rods
Swordys sway bar disconects
Ram-air Snorkel kit, lots of silicone
ARB lockers (dreaming)
lots of CF accesories for looks (functional scooped hood insert, mirror covers, halfmoon, dash trim, guage pillar, and replace fake stuff)

Then I will try to enter it into a car show, if I haven't dented the crap out of it. LOL!

Thanks to everyone who has replied to this thread, you have been a lot of help!

[SPAZZ]

the drop down brackets do not raise the front...cranking the t bars raises the front.

[AlaskaVX]

So, am I going to need to crank the torsion bar 4.5" to get it to the right height with 2" poly spacers? :confused: So how in the hell does this help if that's the case?

[SPAZZ]

the spacers are only for the rear lift.


the t bars are for the front lift.

but, to save cv's and keep ride height you drop the front axle.

best fix is to replace cv's with some high angle drivelines

[AlaskaVX]

So with the drop bracket installed how do I get 4.5" of lift up front, do I crank the torsion bar....
A) 4.5"
B) 3"

[Triathlete]

Answer is...




























...A ;Dy;

[AlaskaVX]

Now your catching my drift!!!!! WTF do they do then????????

[yal^]

That's what I thought SPAZZ...
Triathlete can you explain why you say it's 4.5"?
I was convinced it would be 3"...

[SPAZZ]

the drop down brackets save the cv's from the stress angle after lifting.

if you do not have a locker in the front, then you should be ok even with extreme wheeling. The cv's on mine are still good and I have not had a problem with my 32x11.5 Super Swampers.

Even with 33's you should be ok...only when you have a locker in the front should you be really careful...know when to use it...unless you have alot of $ to fix cv's when they go.


Alaska did you check your pm's???

[AlaskaVX]

Ya got the PM, I am just trying to do this lift right. I don't have the cash to replace CV's, and even with my 31" M/T tires my CV's pulled out of the hubs!!!!! Thank god that was covered under warranty! But now I'm out of warranty and want to make sure I do things right, so.... How can I get 4" of lift? I need to fit my 33" tires I have ordered, and I already have the 912 springs.

I'm still convinced that the bracket gives you an extra 1.5" of lift up front. I mean if you dropped your rear dif 1.5" you would get 1.5" of lift why does the independant front susp. not gain any lift????

[SPAZZ]

Triathlete was answering Alaska'a question in regards to the drop down brackets to lower front axle in relation to how much to crank the T-bars

[yal^]

Oh crap, I just realized what you both are saying!!!

Correct me if I am wrong: you crank T-bars to level up with new springs and polly spacers.
If Alaska installs 2" polly spacers with 912 springs, then T-bars need to be cranked 4.5", because this is how much height the new set up gives him. So after all the drop off brackets really do not matter with the chassis height, because his lift is going to be 4.5", according to T-bars.

Now, the drop off brackets will only take care of the IFS, so in reality he gets 4.5" lift, but his differential will hang 1.5" lower. And that's how much clearance he'll loose in order to ease the cv's angle...

But then I have another question...
With those 33" tires, is he going to gain back at least that 1.5" he is loosing by installing brackets? When you install bigger tires whole suspension goes up by the difference in height to a stock tires, right? Please enlighten me...

Oh, and one more thing. I was looking at those drop off brackets, and I was thinking, that even it they bring down IFS, they look like they lift the rest up by at least one inch. That's why I was confused with Triathlete's answer...

[AlaskaVX]

I see said the blind man to his deaf son!

OK, So I will crank the torsion bar 4.5" which will give me the lift but the drop bracket will make the CV's at a 1.5" less of an angle. So in other words the bracket allows you to crank your torsion bars 1.5" higher with the same CV angle

[AlaskaVX]

Originally posted by yal^

But then I have another question...
With those 33" tires, is he going to gain back at least that 1.5" he is loosing by installing brackets? When you install bigger tires whole suspension goes up by the difference in height to a stock tires, right? Please enlighten me...
Yes I will be gaining 1.5" with tires compared to a 30" tire. 1/2 the difference in lift. So in all the front diff will be 4.5" higher (4.5" from torsion bar cranking minus 1.5" from drop brackets plus 1.5" from tires) and the rest will be 6" higher.

[BBVX]

How's this??

stock - no lift - 8" to front diff, 12" to front cladding

crank bars - 10" to front diff, 14" to cladding

crank bars w/ 33" tires (3" larger than stock) - 11.5" to front diff, 15.5" to front cladding this is my current setup


stock w/ 1.5" drop brackets - 8" to front diff, 13.5 to front cladding

crank bars w/ brackets - 10" to front diff, 15.5 to front cladding

no crank, w/ bracket and 33s - 9.5" to front diff, 15" to front cladding

crank, brackets, and 33s - 11.5 to front diff, 17" to cladding


I think my math is right. The original 8" and 12" numbers are probably not right, they are just estimates for easy math.

Alaska, you know you don't NEED 4" of lift for 33s, right? Are just looking for 4"?

Hope this helps,
Brian

[AlaskaVX]

Uh-oh now I'm confused again. From what you are saying I will only need to crank the torsion bars 3" to get 4.5" in the front (to cladding). You are saying that I get 1.5" of lift up front (to cladding) when installing brackets, others say no? What is the right answer
:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

I want to see some clearance so 4" is prefferable

[SPAZZ]

the lowering axle brackets do exactly as they state..."LOWER" they do not lift anything...........

[BBVX]

originally posted by Spazz:


if you take a stock VX and drop the axle 1.5 inches...then your clearance will drop to almost 7 inches instead of the 8.8

This is not correct. When you add the drop brackets (thereby moving your axle away from the body) you are "lifting" everything but your axle. Your clearance doesn't drop, the only way to lose clearance under your axle is to put on smaller tires.


originally posted by Spazz:


the drop down brackets do not raise the front...cranking the t bars raises the front.

This is half correct. They both raise the "front". The drop brackets raise the body away from the axle, and therefore away from the ground. Cranking the bars turns the short independent front axles down, "lifting" the front diff and front end.

One other thing, I don't think you can get 4" of lift by cranking the bars alone. I think 2" or 2.5" is about it. I figure I have about 3.5" of "lift" in the front, 2" from the bars, and 1.5" from larger tires.

I don't want to argue with anyone, this is the information that I believe to be true. Someone correct me if I'm wrong. :)

Thanks,
Brian

[BBVX]

Nope, Spazz is right, by lowering the diff, you don't actually "lift" the vehicle. You just help straighten the CV angles.

My previous post was completely wrong and I apologize. I guess it was wishful thinking on my part.:mbrasd: :rolleyes:

Sorry,
Brian

[SPAZZ]

;Dp;

[Triathlete]

I think you guys are starting to confuse yourselves!;Dy;

1.Springs, spacers,T bar crank lift your vehicle allowing bigger tires.
2.Bigger tires also add lift.
3.Drop brackets simply drop your axle to give your cv's less of an angle which equals less stress.

[BBVX]

OK, I changed the numbers, does this look right?

stock - no lift - 8.5" to front diff, 12" to front cladding

crank bars - 10.5" to front diff, 14" to cladding

crank bars w/ 33" tires (3" larger than stock) - 12" to front diff, 15.5" to front cladding this is my current setup


stock w/ 1.5" drop brackets - 7" to front diff, 12" to front cladding

crank bars w/ brackets - 9" to front diff, 14" to front cladding

no crank, w/ bracket and 33s - 8.5" to front diff, 13.5" to front cladding

crank, brackets, and 33s - 10.5" to front diff, 15.5" to cladding


See what happens when I try to help? :noy: :rollp:
OK, I'll shut up now.
Brian

[BritVX]

I've been following this thread with great interest as I'm planning my own lift, main problem being getting kit from the US but Tone M is helping me out.

I want to ask one more lift question:
Having read all the different threads on this subject some have said that cranking the Torsion bars has stiffened the suspension but I can't see how this is true. Cranking the bars raises the the front but you still only have the same weight acting down, you've merely changed the point at which the bars act, as I see it.
I'm concerned about this as the last thing I want is stiffer suspension as it's presently rock hard as it is, remember this is a Jap import to UK I don't know if the state side VX is softer. I know the stiffness can be down to the shocks but I don't want to change out to Rancho's if I don't have to, it's expensive enough already.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Col

[yal^]

I think I can answer this, and if I am wrong someone WILL correct me ;po;

NO, cranking t-bars does not stiffen the suspension.
It's the new springs that will change the comfort of drive.
There is noticeable difference in between Isuzu stock springs and OME springs. OME springs are much much beefier than stock. The ride becomes stiffer with new set up, but really doesn't loose on comfort.

For some, and I agree with it 100%, ride is actually more comfortable now, after the lift. Stock suspension is very stiff but it picks up any bump or rock on a road. Highway driving, unless pavement was absolutely perfect, was a real pain. Now I think the ride is calmer, because suspension is not so sensitive (is that the right word?)

[AlaskaVX]

I can't explain it but I have always been told that cranking the torsion bar does make for a stiffer ride.

So from what I am hearing I would have to crank the torsion bar 4.5"s Is that possible? How far can I crank it up with the torsion bar?

[yal^]

Then maybe I am wrong. Maybe cranking t-bars makes a difference besides height, but I trully believe most of it lies in springs...

[dstruction]

cranking torsions stiffens the ride. The tighter the torsion nut, the higher the lift, which in turn stiffens ride. I have my torsions maxed out. I'm using a calmini suspension and a 3 inch body lift. With my tires I gained roughly 10 inches over stock. Now all I need is to drop my front diff due to extreme drive axel angle.

[BritVX]

Thanks for your replies
Whilst I have to bow to practicle experience, as a design engineer I see no reason why the suspension should stiffen but I'm greatly encouraged by yal's comments on ride as mine is exactly the same way at the moment, very unforgiving of anything bigger than a raised white line!

Sorry for hijacking your thread AlaskaVX but I can offer some guidance on how far you can crank the torsion bar.

Whilst I haven't yet taken mine to bits, from photo's I see that the torsion bars themselves are splined at the end that fits into the crank point.
To raise the VX the Torsion bar needs to rotate counter clockwise on the left side and clockwise on the right, this can be done by turning the nut or by pulling the bar out(needs disconnecting at suspension end) and inserting it at a diferent point in the mating splines in the crank point, This is how I intend to make the lift and only use the nut for fine adjustment. This then gives you the ability to go father than is available at the nut if desired.

One word of warning. It must be noted that by turning the torsion bars to achieve lift you are shortening the track of your front wheels due to the suspension points moving on a radius. This may effect handling at speed. I put may as I'm unsure to what degree, obviosly the more you crank the shorter the track.

Please feel free to shoot this idea down, as I say I bow to practical experience.

Col